I was rather disappointed by my trip to the Angel Falls
– let’s get the bad news out of the way – it
was over priced and pretty basic stuff.
I was there 2 ½ years ago or so. It was not possible to
visit the Angel Falls independently, so we had to join a
tour. The land is owned by the indigenous people, and they
run the tours. We flew from Caracas to Ciudad Bolivar and
then on to Canaima. From there, we joined about 6 others
and took a succession of curiaras, supremely uncomfortable
dug out canoes, but powered by outboard motor, up the
river. The water is an interesting brown colour – the
colour of tea with all the tannin from the land. We ended
up on Rat Island, along with 100 or so other people all in
different groups, and spent the night here (Isla Ratton
– aptly named) which consisted of about 100 hammocks
strung out in the open under a corrugated iron roof (no
sides) and very primitive bathrooms, hurricane lamps etc. A
very early start the next morning, bread and strong black
coffee, for a short walk/climb – not at all
strenuous, to a viewing point across which we saw the Angel
Falls. The entire group sat on ledges etc gazing across at
the Falls for about 30 minutes, took photos and then went
back down the mountain and returned by curiara to
Canaima.
And that was it. It cost an awful lot and we got very
little in return. You don’t get particularly close to
the falls and the service, food, accom was appalling,
considering how much it cost. Now, I’m a backpacker
and I don’t mind roughing it, and had hoped it was
all going to be a great adventure, but it just felt like a
huge rip off. I was glad to be away from the place –
it did not feel good.
With hindsight, I would rather have spent longer in the
Gran Sabana and Kavak and have been content with having
seen the Iguaçu Falls – 100 times more impressive!
Alternatively, trekking around the region might have been
better.
Whilst the Angel Falls was the enduring disappointment
of our trip, our 5 days spent in a 4WD with driver (we were
told it was not advisable to drive ourselves) around the
Gran Sabana was fabulous – completely recommend this
– beautiful landscape, lots of tepuys, lakes,
waterfalls, water holes – really, really nice and
relaxing, friendly people, easy and reasonable places to
stay. Our absolute highlight was a short stay at Kavak and
visiting the slot canyon – amazing!
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