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Globetrotters meeting on Saturday 4th January 2003 by Padmassana
For our first meeting of the New Year we were treated to four mini talks by club members.
First up was Gavin Fernandes who talked to us about Darjeeling, India. Gavin showed us slides of his journey, which began on a very slow narrow gauge steam train. The train often runs late anything up to 12 hours. Once he had arrived in Darjeeling, he showed us slides of the area including tea plantations clinging to the sides of hills and temples on mountaintops with their colourful prayer flags. We also saw the local people, including porters who carry impossible loads on their heads including massive oil drums and furniture.
Our second speaker, Kevin Brackley, gave a well received talk on South Korea. Kevin showed us the DMZ (Demilitarised Zone, border with North Korea) and the surrounding area including the world’s most dangerous golf hole and the world’s tallest flagpole as well as the hut where superpower meetings take place. We then saw pictures of Bulguksa temple in the Southeast corner of Korea near the city of Gyeongju and examples of the fine carpentry and paintwork that adorn the temple. Kevin’s photos concluded at Haeinsa, another temple in the mountains near Daegu. Haeinsa is famous for being the repository for 80,000 woodblock texts dating from the 14th century.
After the interval our next speaker Sylvia Pullen took over and took us to Nagaland in India, an area situated near to the Burmese border. Sylvia explained that to visit this area you have to obtain a special permit. Whilst Nagaland is 99% Christian, the large amount of religious buildings are explained by the fact that services in them are in different languages. Sylvia told us that there is little tourist accommodation so she stayed at the Circuit House, which is normally used by visiting judges, engineers and dignitaries. We also saw photos of local life and even a local King.
Our last speaker was Phil Koniotes who took us to Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands. He started on the line of the equator with a foot in each hemisphere before boarding the world’s highest railway to travel through the Valley of the volcanoes. Phil’s trip then took him to the Galapagos, where he enjoyed night-time lobster fishing. Phil showed us the creatures that inhabit the islands including giant tortoises, Iguana, Frigate birds and Blue Footed Boobies. While diving Phil showed us smiling fish and a seal that was intent on eating his flipper! (By the way, congratulations, Phil! Beetle)
London meetings are held at The Church of Scotland, Crown Court, behind the Fortune Theatre in Covent Garden at 2.30pm the first Saturday of each month. There is no London meeting in August, but we will be back in September. For more information, you can contact the Globetrotters Info line on +44 (0) 20 8674 6229, or register for email updates at at our website (click here)
Need help? Want a travelling buddy or advice about a place or country – want to share something with us – why not visit our Mutual Aid section of the Website: Mutual Aid
Last July's trek over the 5600-meter (18,300 foot) high Parang La pass from Spiti, a remote high-altitude Tibetan Buddhist region in the north Indian State of Himachal Pradesh, to the vast, electric blue Tso Moriri lake on the high Changtang Plateau in Western Ladakh was a trip that we are all still raving about.
The scenery is spectacular and the wildlife and meetings with the nomads who inhabit this area are unforgettable. It was the perfect trek–just long enough to get into it and begin to feel that body and mind have been transformed (nine days including two rest days). It was a group from Switzerland that joined us. We'll be leading this 21-day trip again next July (2003), and we're already looking forward to it. The drive into the Himalayas follows a stunning route that really shows off the grandeur and extent of these mountains and valleys. We toured, while at the same time acclimatizing to the altitude, in Kullu, Lahaul and Spiti, not far from Tibet and very much like it, before actually starting the walk.
In the lush, heavily forested Kullu Valley at the foot of the Great Himalayan Range we visited ancient temples, the bazaar town of Manali, and Naggar, the valley's ancient capital and home to the Roerich Gallery. Nikolai Roerich, philosopher, mystic, occultist and painter, who was, strangely enough, responsible for getting the pyramid with the eye put on the US one dollar bill, was so taken with the beauty of this valley that he made Naggar his home and painted splendid scenes of the mountains. We walked through the impressive forest around Naggar to start stretching our legs and lungs.
We drove over the mighty 14,000-foot Rohtang Pass into Lahaul, a land of mountains, glaciers and mighty waterfalls. We were now in the heart of the Himalayas. We crossed the Kunzum Pass and stopped at the top to look at the chortens (Buddhist reliquary mounds) and Hindu temples, the area strung with a multitude of, colorful, fluttering prayer flags, and of course to admire the views. As we drove down the pass into Spiti a herd of yaks came storming down the mountainside looking like big dogs at play. What a sight! In Spiti we toured villages and dramatically perched monasteries, repositories of Tibetan art and sculpture, with lively populations of traditional people and maroon-robed lamas. It's a magnificent region, the place where the Indian subcontinent first made contact with the Asian mainland in that long-ago collision of continents that created the Himalayas.
On the morning the trek began our horses and crew assembled below our hotel and loaded the supplies, gear and tents (dining and lounge tent, kitchen tent and sleeping tents) while we started walking, carrying only our small daypacks. It took us about 4 hours to reach our first camp with a stop for lunch on the way. After reaching camp we had steaming bowls of noodle soup and tea and biscuits prepared by Sonam, our ever-smiling cook, and we began to take in this amazing place. What a spot it was: nestled in a bowl of mountains with gorgeous peaks in every direction and low growing shrubs covered in yellow flowers (caragana brevifolia). We spent a rest day there to acclimatize and get into being in the high mountains. Some of us did a walk to a spot on the edge of a cliff over a river valley from where we had a view of the Parang La pass.
But it would be another two days of steep walking before we'd cross it. The pass is 18,300 feet high, so even though we started walking high in Spiti, at about 16,000 feet, we still had altitude to gain. These paths are made for walking, for they are used by nomads, shepherds and traders from Tibet, so even though we were gaining altitude the going was not that difficult, no big steps or leaps, though some of the grades were fairly steep. Our legs and lungs were getting a really good stretch now. It felt as though we were on another planet and all thoughts of the “real world” were far away. We just concentrated on where we were, drinking in the sublime beauty of it all.
This trek has everything: the Parang La pass with great views in every direction, an easy walk over a glacier on the other side, then three days of great, full-stride, nearly level walking through a valley with hallucinogenic formations, two river crossings, which were good fun as we all held hands and waded through the knee-deep water, and finally, the lake, Tso Moriri-amazing to come upon such a huge lake in these high mountains-truly awesome. Surrounded by “soft” cream-coloured hills-a dramatic contrast to the rugged, jagged mountain scenery we had been walking through-and meadows where Changpas (nomadic shepherds) graze their flocks of pashmina goats and yaks, Tso Moriri is a vast expanse of azure water, a blue that is other-worldly, truly electrifying.
The colour of the lake changes throughout the day depending on the light. And at times parts of it seem to disappear as if “captured” by the reflections of the tan peaks behind it. On the 9-day trek we saw herds of yak, marmots, kiang (wild horses), wild goats, bar-headed geese-mothers and fathers bobbing on the lake with their goslings-lammergeiers (gigantic vultures), and the nomads living in their yak hair tents. And the wildflowers! The Swiss were amazed to see edelweiss growing in such profusion. After a rest day at the lake and a climb up on the ridges behind it for great views, we walked up the lakeshore to the village of Karzok, one of those frontier villages that looks as if it's at the end of the world. And then the drive to Leh, capital of Ladakh, India's “little Tibet,” with its fascinating bazaars and palace, a mini-Potala, and the world's highest polo field.
Flying back to Delhi, where the trip began, the Himalayan ranges spread out below us. We toured Old and New Delhi, appreciated the architecture and urban design of the British Raj, visited colorful temples, markets, beautiful parks and the Qutab Minar, Asia's tallest ancient minaret. We rode through Old Delhi in bicycle rickshaws and wandered the narrow, winding lanes of its colorful bazaars. Martin and Carol Noval have been living in India for more than twenty years and organize and lead several special cultural tours and treks a year for small groups. They'll be doing this trek again next summer; it's one of their favourites. If you would like to get in touch, email them at tripsintoindia@usa.net and check their website (www.tripsintoindia.com).
LONDON (Reuters) – The government says an “international terrorist group” might be planning to carry out an attack on the Tanzanian island of Zanzibar, and warns visitors to be careful.
“We have received information that an international terrorist group may be planning an attack on the island of Zanzibar,” a Foreign Office spokeswoman told Reuters.
“British nationals in Tanzania and especially in Zanzibar should be particularly vigilant in public places frequented by foreigners such as hotels, restaurants, shopping malls, markets, bars and nightclubs.”
She did not specify what the threat was or what organisation was believed to be involved, and said Britain was not advising its nationals to leave Tanzania.
The warning follows a similar message from the United States last week warning its citizens to be on alert in public places on the predominantly Muslim island that is popular with tourists.
In December, Australia also advised its nationals to exercise “extreme caution” in Tanzania, especially in Zanzibar.
The alert comes less than two months after suicide bombers killed 12 people in a blast at an Israeli-owned hotel in neighbouring Kenya.
Minutes before that blast, two missiles were fired at an Israeli airliner carrying 261 passengers as it took off from Kenya's Mombassa airport.
“We believe that Tanzania, including the Zanzibar and Pemba islands, is one of a number of countries in East Africa and the Horn of Africa where there may be an increased terrorist threat,” the Foreign Office spokeswoman said.
British authorities have been criticised in the past from some quarters for not going public quickly enough on possible terror threats their intelligence services hear about. But Prime Minister Tony Blair's government says it is a hard balance between keeping the public informed but not provoking panic given the flood of information on international terror activities received in London on a near-daily basis.
The next meeting will take place on February 1st: Bhutan: The Hidden Kingdom. Experience the exquisite beauty of Bhutan through images of indigenous people, Himalayan landscapes, remote monasteries, colourful markets, and lively festivals. Presented by Kenneth Axen, PhD, research scientist, graphic artist, and serious amateur photographer. For details of forthcoming meetings email newyork@globetrotters.co.uk or register for email updates at at our website. (click here)
New York meetings are held at The Wings Theater, 154 Christopher Street (btw Greenwich St and Washington St), to the right of Crunch Fitness, in the Archive on the first Saturday of each month at 4 pm.
Here’s a little Beetle quiz based on airport codes. See how many you get right! Go on, have a guess!
Which cities are served by airports with the following codes:
For the answers, see at the end of the e-newsletter.
According to a recent UN report, more women are now infected with HIV/Aids than men and more than 40 million people, globally are now living with the disease. Around the world, 5m people were newly infected with the virus in the past year and almost 25% of these were children under the age of 15.
Southern Africa remains at the epicentre of the Aids disaster: an estimated 30% of the adult population in four countries – Botswana, Lesotho, Swaziland and Zimbabwe are infected with HIV/AIDS. The UNAids states: “In four southern African countries, national adult HIV prevalence has risen higher than thought possible. The food crises faced in three of these are linked to the toll of their longstanding HIV/Aids epidemics, especially on the lives of young, productive adults.” The report, entitled Aids Epidemic Update 2002, warns that worse is still to come.
Officials have also warned of major epidemics in Eastern Europe, China and India unless action is taken to tackle the disease.
However, among the growing tally of HIV infections, there have been some success stories – in Brazil, for example, where prevention programmes have had a massive impact, and in African countries such as Ethiopia and South Africa.
|
Living with HIV |
Region Totals |
|
Western Europe |
570,000 |
|
North America |
980,000 |
|
Eastern Europe/Central Asia |
1.2m |
|
Latin America |
1.5m |
|
South/South East Asia |
0.6m |
|
Sub-Saharan Africa |
29.4m |
Gunnersbury Park Museum Dating from 1835, the former country residence of the Rothschild family is now a local history museum with exhibitions charting local history from prehistoric times to the present.
The grounds are lovely to walk in, with Japanese and Italian gardens cultivated by the family in the nineteenth century, as well as the large open space of Gunnersbury Park.
For information on Ontario meetings, please contact: Svatka Hermanek:
shermanek@schulich.yorku.ca or Bruce Weber: tel. 416-203-0911 or Paul Webb: tel. 416-694-8259.
Meetings are held on the third Friday of January, March, May, September and November. Usually at the Woodsworth Co-op, Penthouse, 133, Wilton Street in downtown Toronto at 8.00 p.m.
Win a Trailblazer Handbook on Trekking in Corsica by David Abram who was a wonderful speaker at the London February Globetrotter meeting. See http://www.trailblazer-guides.com for info on Trailblazer guidebooks. They are an excellent series.
Some people have said the quiz is difficult, we say do some research, try google.com or Ask Jeeves, if you need help with the answers.
The winner of last month's Moon guide of Guadalajara is Mark Gregor, so please let us have your postal address, Mark.
The following is an extract from Henry’s website which has lots of interesting links and provides much background to this memorable trip to Molokai. To find out more info, take a look at: Just for background, one of Molokai’s famous past residents, Father Damien, was a Belgium priest who dedicated a large part of his life caring for and helping people suffering from leprosy.
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The Knights of Columbus, Kamiano (Damien) Council 11743 of Waikiki had arranged a round trip flight from Honolulu to Molokai for a nostalgic exploration of Father Damien’s Settlement. One can normally expect to be quoted a fare in excess of $200 for a Kalaupapa tour but the Knights of Columbus chartered a plane to fly round trip Honolulu to Molokai and that resulted in a savings which also included a bonus flight seeing air tour of the spectacular Molokai cliffs all the way to the east end of the island and back.
The weather was good after nearly a week of heavy rain and overcast skies. The trade winds were back with winds ENE at 15-25mph and it was now visibility unlimited.
We boarded our 9-passenger, twin engine Piper Chieftain for a 1200 departure and a fifty-minute flight that not only took us past downtown Honolulu and over the Norwegian Star, Waikiki and Diamond Head but over Koko Head and across the 22-mile wide Molokai Channel to the west end of Molokai and past Papohaku Beach, the longest sand beach in Hawaii. Then its along the north shore of Molokai until we see the low-lying Kalaupapa Peninsula jutting due north from a cliffed coast midway along the north shore. We pass the peninsula and continue east another fifteen miles past some of the highest sea cliffs (2,000′ asl) in the world. We turn around at Cape Halawa with a peek at Halawa Valley at the easternmost end of Molokai (the northwest coast of Maui can be seen nine miles away) and we then retraced our route so that persons on the left side of the aircraft might have a good view of the pali coast. We finally land at the state-owned and operated Kalaupapa Airport (LUP) with its 2700-ft runway scenically perched right along the rocky shoreline and abreast of the historic Kalaupapa Lighthouse.
At Kalaupapa Airport, located about two miles north of the settlement, we were met by Fr. Joe Hendricks, the pastor of Kalaupapa Parish and driven, by yours truly, to the settlement. Fr. Joe, who also founded the Damien Museum in Honolulu, said a mass for us at Fr. Damien’s old St. Philomena Church in Kalawao and then graciously gave us his insight into Blessed Fr. Damien’s life and labours. His story is universally known and a timeless one. We viewed his and Brother Dutton’s grave and were sure to see Mother Marianne’s last resting place, heroes all.
We drove everywhere we could and then some. Things were so quiet that we even saw deer and wild pigs in the middle of the day. The views are outstanding and the peninsula is, at least now, neat and pleasant. Re-supply is heavily by air since the barge visits but once in February each year. There are currently 43 residents who are living out their days in the settlement and one of them, Paul Harada who has been there since 1945, even gave one of our Tongan members (Zco who tells me he was named for the Tongan radio station that started operations on the day he was born) some good-looking fresh fish which were just right for sashimi. This special visit took us four hours and afterwards we reboarded our chartered plane for the return flight to Honolulu.
We flew along the northwest coast of Molokai and headed for Honolulu direct. The flight path was somewhat similar to the outgoing leg but provided interesting views, such as downtown Honolulu (photo 12), from another angle. We landed at Honolulu International Airport (HNL) and taxied back to our starting point to complete an extremely memorable experience!
The Knights of Columbus will sponsor other trips to Kalaupapa so if you are interested then click here to request further details and a schedule. Note: Passengers must be sixteen years of age as a minimum. Although the entrance to the Kalaupapa National Historical Park is free, admittance is limited to either those taking the Damien Tour or those personally invited by a resident.
If you would like any further information, please contact Henry by email: Nowicki@webtv.net
The UK government has just given the go-ahead for specially trained under cover armed police officers to be placed onboard civil aircraft. This is a part of a range of security measures to prevent attacks by international terrorists.
In addition to the UK move, undercover armed guards are to be allowed on flights between Australia and Singapore after the two countries reached an agreement ahead of a conference on terrorist activities.
Australia is seeking similar agreements with both the United States and Indonesia.
Domestic flights in Australia have carried air marshals for several months in response to the terrorist attacks of September 11 in the US.
The first meeting of 2003 for the Texas branch of the Globetrotters Club had 8 new people in attendance. What a way to start the new year off! It was especially exciting as it was a cold and rainy day, not what Texans are accustomed to.
The scheduled presenter was unable to attend, which meant lots of time for travel talk and networking. The time was very well spent. The 10 “regulars” and the 8 “newbies” all had a swell time sharing stories and getting to know each other.
Saturday February 8th, 2003, 2pm-4pm
PLEASE NOTE DIFFERENT LOCATION
We will meet at the VFW Hall on Peace Street instead of the library on Common St.
The hall is across from the entrance to Cypress Bend Park where the April 2002 picnic was held.
Peace Street is between the library and the river off Common St. Turn on Peace Street – the Fairgrounds are across the street so you can only turn one way. There is a sign for the VFW hall on the corner. Go to the dead end (cemeteries on both sides) and turn right into the parking lot for the VFW hall. Any Questions please feel free to call: 830-620-5482
We are excited to welcome this month’s speaker, Norman Ford. The founder of the Globetrotters Club and an avid cyclist and will present slides from one of his bike trips. Plans for the Copper Canyon trip will also be discussed.
Enjoy Handouts, free stuff, informative speakers, useful demonstrations, travel talk time, slide shows of exotic locales, and door prizes!
As always, the meeting will begin promptly at 2:00 p.m.
Mark your calendars – Dates of future meetings: March 8th, April 12th,
The VFW folks will open their bar so we will not go to the Hoity Toit after the meeting. If you like, bring some nibbles to share for conversation time following the meeting – since we will miss the peanuts from the Toit.
See you Sat. Feb. 8 at 2 p.m.
For more information about the Texas Branch: please Contact texas@globetrotters.co.uk or register for email updates at our website (click here) or call Christina at 830-620-5482
PLEASE NOTE DIFFERENT LOCATION
If anybody would like to enquire about meetings or help Christina, please contact her on: texas@globetrotters.co.uk
Our organization, Save the Earth Network, an entirely self funded organization (generating its income from the participation fees of our volunteers, visitors and eco-tourists) makes donations to humanitarian projects. Our partner organizations are orphanages, foster homes and a construction/ renovation organizations in Ghana. Churches, other organizations and individuals make donations to our partner organizations.
We have many volunteer opportunities and also eco-tourism opportunities to travel around Ghana. Also, in March this year we plan to start our own HIV/AIDS prevention education projects/programs in Ghana and are looking for volunteers to help in this too
People who would like to participate in any of our programs should please contact: Edgar Asare or Eben Mensah at Save the Earth Network, P.O. Box CT 3635, Cantonments, Accra, Ghana. West Africa. Tel: 233-21-667791, Fax: 233-21-669625 or e-mail Eben on: ebensten@yahoo.com.
If you would like to get in touch with some of our former volunteers from all over the world, they are happy to provide testimonials. Please contact WonHye Chung from the USA on wchung@wellesley.edu , Jane from England at dodgytie@hotmail.com, Kim from New Zealand at kimbaker73@hotmail.com or Waahida from the USA at waahida@hotmail.com
Under 30? A member of Globetrotters Club? Interested in a £1,000 travel award?
Know someone who is? We have £1,000 to award each year for five years for the best submitted independent travel plan. Interested?
Then see our legacy page on our Website, where you can apply with your plans for a totally independent travel trip and we'll take a look at it. Get those plans in!!
As its name suggests, Brick Lane gets its name from the local manufacture of bricks. By the early 18th Century it was a long well-paved street frequented by carts fetching bricks into Whitechapel from brick kilns. The other industry in the area was beer, which was brewed in the Truman Black Eagle Brewery, founded in 1669. The brewery building still remains today, now converted to designers/artists' studios, workshops and bars. Brick Lane Market developed in the 18th century when farmers sold livestock and produce outside the City boundary.
Today, Brick Lane is now the centre of London's Bangladeshi community and best known for a whole line of fantastic Bengali restaurants. Of interest is the London Jamme Masjid, a mosque on the corner of Fournier Street and Brick Lane. It was built in 1744 as a Huguenot church, purchased by Wesleyans, sold to a Jewish immigrant society in 1897, after which it became a synagogue.
The market is open on Sundays only, from early morning until about 14.00 – allow plenty of time to see it all as the market stretches into Cheshire Street and Sclater Street. Expect to find anything from furniture to fruits, kitchenware to kitsch and odd boots to bangles.
To get there, take the District (green) line to Aldgate East, turn left out of the station and left again into Brick Lane. Or alternatively, it is less than a 10 minute walk from Liverpool Street tube or train station.
Iris, a British lady of considerable character and pluck, is on a 23 week overland truck expedition from Quito in Ecuador to Caracas in Venezuela. After this, she plans to do a 3-month voluntary placement in Ecuador, and then visit Central America for another overland trip between Panama City and Mexico City, ending up with perhaps another 2-month voluntary placement somewhere in South America again. This amazing journey will take Iris one year. Here is an extract from Iris’ journey notebook.
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27th November 2002
Arrived in Quito at 1730 local time. Met 4 people from Madrid, 4 more from the UK and 4 others at the hotel and today 7 of them plus me went to the Equator. It was really hot, sun beating down and some had no hats and were getting burnt up! On the way back, we had taxi race but my taxi lost! All told good flight and meeting some great people. Hotel okay – no spiders or cockroaches in sight! Everything very clean.
Pre-expedition meeting tonight – there are only 41 of us instead of 44 – I am on a truck with 20 others – does that mean I’m on my own in a tent? Will have to see! (Beetle: we’ll hear a lot more about this particular aspect of Iris’ trip!)
Left Quito at 1100 hrs after a frenetic time trying to get everything packed into that locker! 77cm x 40cm x 30cm seems a large space until you find it is made of hard wood! Everyone had similar problems to me, but I got mine in with little problems compared to others and some still haven’t managed to transfer their stuff to their lockers!! It’s 5 hours down to Baños, out first stop (still in Ecuador and we’ll be here in Baños for 4 nights.
Am sharing with an Australian lady, Judith – 3 yrs older than me but a kindred spirit. We did our exercises together this morning! Everyone on the trip is so friendly and we really enjoyed the trip down here together. The hotel is fine. It appears we will be staying in hotels most of the time at the moment. We’ve been given a programme for the next 8 weeks (54 nights) and are staying in hotels for 37 of those. Apparently we start camping after we’ve dropped people off in Santiago in Chile. We are all longing for the camping to start.
Weather here is changeable at the moment however as it is the rainy season and today we had our first real rain, which lasted all morning, but now the sun is out. However, Baños is nestled below an active volcano, which as I write is spewing forth steam! We saw it from all sorts of aspects as we approached Baños – I wrote in my journal that it looks so “innocently menacing”! Black and brooding above this small town. In the church there are countless paintings depicting disasters in the past, and when one looked at the earth in the banks on the way down to the town, it was black earth, obviously from previous laval deposits. We are chilling out here – all of us, recovering from the journey to South America and some of us had really fraught times getting here – Judith, my room-mate came from Australia via London and took four days of constant travel to get here hours before we were due to leave Quito! She is really jet-lagged and needs this time to recover.
Activities here are walking (I’ll participate); canyoning (abseiling, sliding down ropes and swimming) planned for tomorrow (definitely not for me – as Judith said, if it was the last week of the trip we might risk it, but this early in? No way!); mountain bike riding (ditto for canyoning!); rafting (ditto again). Most people, I think, just want to chill out and renew energy for the remaining 22½ weeks!
If you’d like to contact Iris, whether to wish her luck with her trip or to ask questions about her itinerary and places visited, I am sure she would like to hear from you. She can be contacted on: irisej2002@yahoo.co.uk
The Beetle likes the Aussie slang website spotted by our eagle eyed webmaster.
Having just come back from Australia, she noticed a propensity to end as many words as possible with “ie” as in, being asked by an air hostess, would you like “brekkie” i.e. breakfast. A barbecue is a barbie, football, footie and so on.
The website also provides the translations to mysterious words like “onya” and the use of G’day and ‘oroo. Incidentally, back to the site’s home page, there’s also an English to American dictionary (and vice versa) British, Canadian and American words.
If you have a travellers tale that your aching to tell. Then why not visit the “Travel Sized Bites” section of the Website and share it with the world. Travel Sized Bites
Madeira, Garden of the Atlantic: this is an island of incredible natural beauty. Everywhere you go roads and paths are lined with plants: bird of paradise, agapanthus, orchid, and hyacinths. The mountainous interior rises steeply from the coast, broken up by ravines and gorges with the sides covered in trees or terraces for agriculture.
There is a reason for this epithet, this verdancy; parts of the island get up to 2m of rain a year. So now you know the downside. For those scared of dissolving, the south side is drier especially through the summer months. However, what an island! I am no longer allowed to say awesome! So the scenery is amazing, the plants are amazing and the levadas (water channels) are truly amazing – human achievement at its best. Who needs to land on the moon? Some of the levadas cling to cliff faces, pass through tunnels (don’t forget torches), some twine through eucalyptus or tree heather or the Madeiran laurel forest, most have a fascination of ferns and mosses and agapanthus along the walls, sides and edges.
Our main reason for visiting Madeira was walking generally, but more specifically, walking the levadas. A system of watercourses channelling water for hydroelectricity and for agriculture, not an idea original to Madeira, but it is the accessibility of these levadas makes for some Awesome walking. Through some of the most amazing scenery while often in the shade and with the coolness of water flowing alongside. And they are flat(ish) but not for those who have a problem with heights or even a slight issue with heights. At some points paths may only be a foot to 18” wide and barriers, when present, are a single strand of flimsy fence wire. The other side of the path can be a drop of several hundred feet; this can be especially interesting when the path is rough and patchy or worn. However some levadas had a wide track adjacent, enabling two or more to walk abreast. The real disadvantage is that most of the levadas go somewhere, this means that without planning the walks can be “there and back” rather than circular, and those walks which are circular often involve a steep scramble up or down to levadas on different levels.
As a change from levadas walking, the interior of the island can be roughly divided into two sections, to the west is the Paul da Serra, the flattest section of the island at 1400m! This upland plain is reminiscent of Scotland and gives a wonderful sense of solitude and space. Eastwards are the jagged peaks of Pico Ruivo (the highest mountain on the island). The café at Pico do Arieiro (1800m and a good starting place for walking Pico Ruivo) served the best cup of tea of the holiday.
Although there are no beaches on the island, there are some rather fine lidos. Those at Porto Moniz at the north west of the island utilise some of the natural rock formations and are especially fine.
Other tourist attractions include the famed toboggan ride from Monte down to Funchal, the capital. There are also the botanical gardens in Funchal and the cable car ride from Monte to Funchal is recommended. Camacha village is famous for it willow work. Other souvenirs include the famous Madeira cake (nothing like the British sort!), Madeira wine, textiles and ceramics. The embroidery work is fantastic, but also available are woollens and throws. It is also possible to buy flowers (including the bird of paradise) to ship home in hand luggage.
We did a fly drive with Style holidays, with 3 pre-booked hotels (the Eira do Serrado in Nuns valley was wonderful, a hotel with vertigo!). Driving on the wrong side of the road was interesting enough without the hairpins and drops to the side. (It isn’t just the levadas, which cling to the side of hills!). We visited in December (the quiet season) and had one gorgeous day; one awful day and the rest were merely overcast with showers or sunny spells.
We used the Sunflower Landscapes book as a guide (www.sunflowerbooks.co.uk) and found it excellent (they also suggest driving tours). The “Danger of Vertigo” points were spot on. The directions, timings and parking were also good. We did walks 23 (totally awesome, but I did discover a fear of heights), one of the alternatives on walk 25, 29, 37 (brilliant and interesting), 36, and 39. Although these were mainly levada walks, all the levadas were different and provided a wonderful variety of scenery. We did meet a couple that said walk 12 should be dropped.
It was a great holiday and the final recommendation; Yes! I would definitely go back.
What have you seen on your travels? Drop a line to the Beetle! Beetle@globetrotters.co.uk