If you have a travellers tale that your aching to tell. Then why not visit the “Travel Sized Bites” section of the Website and share it with the world. Travel Sized Bites
US Prison Pen-Pals
Valentine’s Day has been and gone, and if, like the Beetle you did not receive any declarations of undying love, there’s always some of America’s most desirable felons who are lining up to send you love letters, poems and even proposals of marriage. If that is your cup of tea, take a look at: www.hotprisonpals.com. Inmates, both heterosexual and gay, pay $19 to post their photograph and a short note on the site. Women inmates are also invited to join hotprisonpals, but none has applied so far.
With no access to the Internet, letters are often the only contact U.S. prisoners have with the outside world. “Prisoners have real abandonment issues. Friends and family often stop writing after a couple of years,” said Bangkok based Jason Rupp, a 30 year old photographer who built the Web site in 2003.
BA Going Ryanair on us?
British Airways seem to be going all Ryanair on us. The latest hoo-hah is going to hit travellers with more than one check in item of luggage hard. Passengers flying with British Airways could face an additional cost of $470 if they choose to take an extra bag with them on a return flight. The airline has announced that from February 13, 2007 the cost of checking in an extra bag on a one-way long-haul flight will be $235 (£120). Short-haul travellers will face a $118 (£60) per bag fee, while those taking UK domestic flights will have to fork out $90 (£42) for each additional case.”
Intoxicated Russians Rescued from Ice-Floe
Hundreds of Russian fishermen were recently rescued from ice-floes which began to drift after breaking away from the shore off Sakhalin island in the Sea of Okhotsk. The anglers had been fishing through holes drilled in the ice, a traditional winter pursuit for many Russians. The Emergencies Ministry rescued all 442 people who were adrift, although about 70 had initially refused to leave without their gear. One ministry official was quoted as saying many of those rescued were in a state of “heavy alcoholic intoxication”.
New Bridge for Machu Picchu
Machu Picchu is a Unesco World Heritage Site and currently attracts as many as 2,500 visitors a day. A controversial 80-metre (262ft) bridge, due to open in February 2007 will create a new route to the Incan ruins and enable locals to take produce to Cusco in three hours instead of 12. Critics, however, say that the new bridge could have a damaging impact on tourism to the ruins by increasing tourist numbers, which could damage the ruins and lead to an increase in drug trafficking in the region. Unesco inspectors are due to inspect the site later this year to ascertain whether its status is endangered
Buenos Aires Tours
My name is Christina Yang, and I wanted to introduce you to the organization I am volunteering for as I think it would be a great resource for independent travellers to know about.
CICERONES DE BUENOS AIRES is a non-profit organization that offers a free tour guide service. It is a greeter program, to help visitors explore the city through the eyes of a porteño (Buenos Aires resident.) The service is similar to the “Big Apple Greeters” in New York, and as it is a non-profit it is completely free. It is a great service for everyone, but especially for independent travellers because it is essentially a way to make a friend in an unknown place. For more information, visit www.cicerones.org.ar, or you can e-mail at contacto@cicerones.org.ar.
Space Colonisation
Professor Stephen Hawking, the eminent professor of mathematics at the University of Cambridge, author of erudite books recently warned that future generations would need to leave the planet to ensure the survival of the species. He is quoted as having said that space rockets using Star Trek technology like the ‘warp drive’ would be needed to colonise hospitable planets. Professor Hawking also spoke of his desire to go into space, and appealed to the Virgin tycoon, Sir Richard Branson, who is planning a “space tourism” venture, to realise his ambition. “My next goal is to go into space. Maybe Richard Branson will help me,” he said. “Sooner or later, disasters such as an asteroid collision or nuclear war could wipe us all out. But once we spread out into space and establish independent colonies, our future should be safe. There isn’t anywhere like the Earth in the solar system, so we would have to go to another star.
MTV and Frommer Guides
MTV and Frommer’s travel Guides
MTV has teamed up with Frommer’s travel guide to publish a series of travel guides specifically for young holidaymakers and those studying abroad. The guides offer a unique perspective on popular hotspots such as Ireland, Italy and Europe in general. In addition, further travel guides on Spain, France, England and road trips in the US are planned for April next year. The MTV Travel Guides can also be downloaded in podcast format from Frommers.com and iTunes.
Gorilla Threat
If you, like the Beetle have a yen to go and visit the gorillas, it is disheartening to learn from a recent survey that over 5,000 gorillas may have died in recent outbreaks of the Ebola virus in central Africa. Scientists warn that, coupled with the commercial hunting of gorillas, it may be enough to push them to extinction. One of the most virulent viruses known, Ebola has killed more than 1,000 people since it was first recorded in 1976. Scientists are still working on a vaccine and there is no known cure. In 2002 and 2003, several outbreaks of Ebola flared up in human populations in Gabon and Congo. Outbreaks of the disease in humans have sometimes been traced to the bush meat trade.
Help Your Friends Out
People you care about can benefit from the wealth of information about travel available on the Internet. Help them learn how to do it by forwarding them this issue of the Globetrotters eNewsletter!
Meeting News from London by Padmassana
Our first meeting of the new year was as always 4 mini talks given by club members. Tony Annis was first with his talk about Saudi Arabia – Filming. Tony was involved in making a film about King Abdullah’s life, this included charging camels and the logistics of getting equipment and props into the country. Tony also showed us Riyadh’s “Chop chop square”.
Sylvia Pullen took us to North West Pakistan to the valley of the Kalasha people near Afghanistan. Sylvia explained the Kalasha are Pagan and not Muslim, and may be descendents of Alexander the Great’s army with their light skin tone. We also saw the Khyber Pass and an Afghan village that was less than welcoming when Sylvia and her party tried to visit.
After the break John and Roz Williams transported us to Transylvania, very rural Romania, only reachable down roads that became tracks that became impassable. They stayed at a guest house that uses some of it profits to support the Carpathian Large Carnivore Project, involved in helping the country’s bear, wolf and Lynx populations to survive. We saw close up pictures of bears which are fed small amounts by the project.
David Boyd was our last speaker, taking us to Kruger National Park in South Africa. David had some great photos of Lions, Elephants and some hard to get Leopard shots. David also showed us the camps in the Kruger which range from basic to fairly upmarket.
Many thanks to all our speakers for getting the 2007 talks off to a wonderful start. That was not the end of proceedings as all present then enjoyed Globetrotters traditional New Years party, thanks to all those who brought along food and drink.
By Padmassana
3rd February 2007: Dave Atkinson – Bradt Guide author – will be talking about Bolivia, to coincide with launching their new edition. After the break, Juliet Coombe will be talking about Galle Fort – the lives of the 800 people in Galle fort, Sri Lanka.
London meetings are held at The Church of Scotland, Crown Court, behind the Fortune Theatre in Covent Garden at 2.30pm the first Saturday of each month. There is no London meeting in August, but we will be back in September. For more information, you can contact the Globetrotters Info line on +44 (0) 20 8674 6229, or visit the website: www.globetrotters.co.uk
MeetingNews from London by Padmassana
Our first meeting of the new year was as always 4 mini talks given by club members. Tony Annis was first with his talk about Saudi Arabia – Filming. Tony was involved in making a film about King Abdullah’s life, this included charging camels and the logistics of getting equipment and props into the country. Tony also showed us Riyadh’s “Chop chop square”.
Sylvia Pullen took us to North West Pakistan to the valley of the Kalasha people near Afghanistan. Sylvia explained the Kalasha are Pagan and not Muslim, and may be descendents of Alexander the Great’s army with their light skin tone. We also saw the Khyber Pass and an Afghan village that was less than welcoming when Sylvia and her party tried to visit.
After the break John and Roz Williams transported us to Transylvania, very rural Romania, only reachable down roads that became tracks that became impassable. They stayed at a guest house that uses some of it profits to support the Carpathian Large Carnivore Project, involved in helping the country’s bear, wolf and Lynx populations to survive. We saw close up pictures of bears which are fed small amounts by the project.
David Boyd was our last speaker, taking us to Kruger National Park in South Africa. David had some great photos of Lions, Elephants and some hard to get Leopard shots. David also showed us the camps in the Kruger which range from basic to fairly upmarket.
Many thanks to all our speakers for getting the 2007 talks off to a wonderful start. That was not the end of proceedings as all present then enjoyed Globetrotters traditional New Years party, thanks to all those who brought along food and drink.
By Padmassana
3rd February 2007: Dave Atkinson – Bradt Guide author – will be talking about Bolivia, to coincide with launching their new edition. After the break, Juliet Coombe will be talking about Galle Fort – the lives of the 800 people in Galle fort, Sri Lanka.
London meetings are held at The Church of Scotland, Crown Court, behind the Fortune Theatre in Covent Garden at 2.30pm the first Saturday of each month. There is no London meeting in August, but we will be back in September. For more information, you can contact the Globetrotters Info line on +44 (0) 20 8674 6229, or visit the website: www.globetrotters.co.uk
Overseas Meetings
We used to have meetings in New York City and New Braunfels, Texas. Regrettably, after having done a superb job, neither organisers are able to give their time to Globetrotter meetings. If you are based in New York or New Braunfels and have the time to commit to pick up where our previous organisers left off, we’d love to hear from you – please see our FAQ or contact our the Branch Liaison Officer via our Website at Meeting FAQ. If you are based elsewhere and are interested in starting a branch of the Globetrotters, please feel free to contact us.
Meeting News from Ontario
For information on Ontario meetings, please contact Svatka Hermanek: shermane@schulich.yorku.ca or Bruce Weber: tel. 416-203-0911 or Paul Webb: tel. 416-694-8259.
Meetings are held on the third Friday of January, March, May, September and November, usually at the Old York Tower, 85 Esplanade (It is at the south-east corner of Church & Esplanade – 2 blocks east from the Hummingbird Centre at 8.00 p.m. Meetings are held on the third Friday of January, March, May, September and November. Usually at the Woodsworth Co-op, Penthouse, 133, Wilton Street in downtown Toronto at 8.00 p.m.
Portsmouth and the Isle of Wight by Val Brackley
Portsmouth now has The Spinnaker Tower, built to celebrate the millennium which is the tallest publicly accessible building outside London. Visitors can take a lift to the three viewing decks at 100m, 105m and 110m for stunning views across to the Isle of Wight. Whilst in Portsmouth you can also visit HMS Victory, Nelsons flagship at the Battle of Trafalgar, HMS Warrior which was the first iron hulled armoured battleship which has been restored to 1860’s condition and the Mary Rose Museum, which is the only 16th century warship on display in the world. It was built for Henry VIIII and sank in 1545. There are also interesting harbour cruises available.
Car ferries from Portsmouth, cross frequently to Fishbourne and Ryde. Other ferry services can be taken from Lymington to Yarmouth, Southampton to Cowes or for those travelling on foot a ferry from Portsmouth or the Hovercraft from Southsea arrives at Ryde with the only railway on the Island going from Ryde Pier to Sandown and Shanklin. There are also good local bus services to all parts
On the island visitors will find plenty of interesting places to go to. A visit to Osborne House at East Cowes is a must. This was the seaside home of Queen Victoria and there is a fascinating tour of the house and gardens and a short free bus ride within the grounds will take you down to the Swiss Cottage where the Royal children played. 01983-200022 for admission charges and opening times.
The Needles, Alum Bay- This is a famous landmark with spectacular chairlift down the cliffs to the bay from which the many coloured sands so popular in souvenirs on the island. www.theneedles.co.uk
Cowes is a famous maritime town with many sailing clubs, known worldwide for its Royal Regatta and for those interested in doing some sailing there is the UK sailing centre.
Old village Shanklin and Shanklin Chine – This is a picturesque village with many thatched cottages and the chine is a steep scenic gorge with waterfalls, nature trail, displays and exhibitions. Site of the PLUTO (pipeline under the ocean) which supplied fuel for the D-Day landings.
Sandown and Ventnor are along with Shanklin typical seaside towns, a little dated but great for family visits with plenty of accommodation across all ranges.
Tourist info.www.islandbreaks.co.uk Accommodation line 01983 -813813
Re-building homes and lives in Honduras by Julie Thompson
As Tabitha Boonstra showed the children of La Esperanza in Honduras their picture on her digital camera, she could not believe their reaction.
‘They would come running up to you from wherever they were, and they’d be yelling ‘photo, photo!’ They’d stand there, and you would take their picture, then you’d show them on the back of the digital camera. They would be the happiest kids in the world’.
‘It was such a simple thing, yet it made them so happy’ she says guessing that there aren’t too many mirrors in rural Honduras. It was moments like this, and many others that made volunteering such a memorable experience for Tabitha of Ontario, Canada.
She spent three months helping to build houses and provide aid with sanitation projects in rural Honduras through the Global Volunteer Network (GVN), an organization that helps connect volunteers with communities in need. She had previously volunteered within her own community, working with children and people with special needs, but never anything like this.
‘I wanted to do something different’ she says, ‘and volunteering is a good way to go and learn a different culture’.
Tabitha really enjoyed volunteering, getting amongst the action, and using the opportunity to really make a difference to the lives of the people in Honduras.
‘I built houses for the indigenous people using trees, mud and adobe bricks. I feel the living conditions of the people are greatly improved by this effort as less people are crammed into tiny houses and they have less draughty houses with better seals against animals and bugs. Some even got concrete floors put in, which greatly reduces health problems. The work was rewarding and seemed to make a big difference’ says Tabitha.
Rural poverty in Honduras is among the most severe in Latin America. Approximately 53% of the population is rural, and it is estimated that 75% of the rural population lives below the poverty line, unable to meet basic needs. The country still has high rates of population growth, infant mortality, child malnutrition and illiteracy. Access to simple healthcare and sanitation is lacking, and it is estimated that over 30 percent of child deaths in Honduras are caused by a common and preventable digestive sickness.
On top of all of this, Honduras was hit severely by Hurricane Mitch in 1998, and the results were devastating. At least 5,000 people were killed and 70% of the country’s crops were destroyed. This has put more pressure on the already struggling economy, and has been a huge setback to development.
The Honduras building program helps foreign volunteers assist families to build or improve their homes and schools, with work including renovation, making bricks, building walls, painting and building wooden playgrounds for the local children. There are also sanitation programs in place, in order to implement basic plumbing, and to help educate the local children about health and wellbeing.
As there are very few tools, the volunteers do mainly manual work. Because they are often working with mud bricks, they can get pretty dirty, but it is lots of fun, and a great learning experience. You also need to be prepared to use your initiative in Honduras, as Tabitha found out.
‘Because you are a foreigner, they treated you in such a manner, that they felt you were above them. If you wanted to work, you had to pick up a shovel and say ‘give me something to do’, she says.
But once you do get amongst it, the people are very grateful for the assistance the volunteers give. It really has a positive effect on a community to know that a volunteer has given up time, money and comfort to help them.
‘It’s just natural for them to think that foreigners don’t care about third word countries or people who have a poor life. But when they see volunteers, they realize that some people in the world, no matter how rich they are or what their status, they do care about others, and that people are willing to help’, says Tabitha.
The program is not all hard work though, and there is lots of time to get to know your host family, or to explore the country and mingle with the locals. Tabitha loved being around the local children, and took any chance she could get to hang out with them.
‘Playing soccer with the kids was definitely the most fun. There are wide open spaces everywhere and you are playing on a dirt road. If you would kick a ball too far, it would go way down this mountainous hill, and all the kids would run down to go get it for you, clambering down it. They were so eager to help you out’. The memory of their smiling faces will be something that will stay with Tabitha for a long time.
Building in Honduras enables volunteers from more developed countries to use their skills and enthusiasm to assist in providing these people with a better life. Tabitha believes that the organization really does make a difference, and it is because of the volunteers that this happens.
‘I do feel like I have helped, because we built the houses. These people now have safer shelters and a more sanitary place to live in’.
Volunteering in a foreign country is such a unique experience, and quite different from being a tourist. Not only does the community benefit, but the volunteer also gets an opportunity of a lifetime.
‘You actually get to hang out with the locals, get to know them, become friends with them, and get an idea of what life is like there. When you travel you get to see the scenery and eat the food, but you don’t experience what life is actually like in that country’.
‘I could have just travelled for four months and maybe seen some cool things, but not bettered myself or anyone else. Because I volunteered with my time, it helped other people too, and I think that is just a great thing’.
If you are interested in volunteering, visit the GVN website at www.volunteer.org.nz
Something Secret of How To Cruise Like A Millionaire! by Anne Pottinger
Do you love cruise vacations but find them way too expensive? Are you looking for the exceptional and unique in sea travel? Then you may want to consider a freighter cruise.
To really enjoy a freighter cruise, you must be flexible and acknowledge that cargo movements govern all schedules and itineraries. Period.
When travelling alone, the charge will be between $65 to $125 USD per day. Always request a single cabin because a double will cost significantly more. When only doubles are available, the extra may be sufficient to make you think about a different voyage altogether, or wait for a later voyage when a single cabin is available.
Two people booking a double cabin will usually pay less per person than one person booking a single cabin, although on some lines these fares are the same, and in a few cases, can be even less than the double fare per person.
Usually a freighter carries no more than twelve passengers, but in many cases only five or six. Any more than twelve passengers requires the ship to employ a doctor. All passengers must provide a medical certificate signed by both their physician and themselves, confirming that they are able to travel on a freighter where there is no doctor on board.
All suites and staterooms are spacious, well furnished and equipped to a good standard, some with a TV/VCR and refrigerator. They come with private bathrooms and air conditioning. Located on the upper decks and on the outside of the vessel, all cabins have windows; however, the view can sometimes be blocked by containers stowed on deck. Bed linen and towels are changed once or twice a week.
Swimming pools, saunas and fitness rooms, are normally provided as well as passenger lounges with TV/VCR and stereo sets and small video and book libraries. Deck space can be limited but there’s always room for sunbathing, and deck chairs are usually available.
The fare includes accommodation and three meals per day. Passengers dine with the ship’s officers and, on many vessels, enjoy complimentary wine at lunch and dinner. The pantry is usually always open to anyone fancying a light snack. Alcoholic beverages and soft drinks are available on all vessels, at duty free prices.
Your fellow passengers will be people who love adventure and who do not enjoy regimentation. Organized activities are not for them! They are frequently people who can take lengthy periods of time off, such as teachers, people who run their own businesses and retired folk.
What to Do In Brunei
The Beetle spent a large part of 2005 working in Brunei. Here is a whistle-stop summary of some of its attractions; Brunei is definitely worth a three day or so detour.
Brunei, or to give it its full and correct title, Darussalam is situated on the north-west of the island of Borneo. It is a comparatively small country and has a total area of 5,765-sq. km. with a coastline of about 161-km along the South China Sea. It is completely surrounded by the state of Sarawak, East Malaysia though the Malaysian state of Sabah is to the east and Indonesia’s Kalimantan is to the south comprising the rest of Borneo. Brunei became independent from Great Britain in 1984 and Malay and English are widely used.
Brunei is blighted by a most unjustified reputation of being very expensive. Compared to say, Singapore, you can get a room in a hotel, say the D’Angerrek (where the Beetle lived) which is of a very high standard, for around £20 a night – something you could not find in Singapore for the same budget or indeed standard. The food in Brunei is excellent and there are many restaurants to choose from, from the ubiquitous food courts on the top floor of shopping centres to Indonesian satay and gado gado places to Japanese restaurants, all at very reasonable prices. There are a number of extremely good supermarkets that stock everything you could possibly want and far, far more in the way of fish, meat, fresh fruit and veg than say the UK – everything except alcohol, for Brunei is a dry country.
Public transport, or rather the lack of it lets Brunei down. There are buses, but the network is not extensive and they tend to stop at 5pm, so hiring a car is something of a pre-requisite.
There is a centre to Bandar, the capital but it is not big. There is a small shopping complex with a food court and an impressive mosque, the Omar Ali Saifuddin Mosque – see picture left.
Also in town, there’s the Kampong Ayer, a somewhat up market floating village. I was told by a boatman who lives there that around 20,000 people live in the Kampong and more and more are leaving for more comfortable housing. I say up market, because it has electricity, satellite dishes and some of the houses have two storeys and pretty painted verandas and large pots of flowers and other plants. There are also several primary and secondary schools, a mosque and a fire station and a floating Shell petrol station. On my last trip there, I was told that the govt has plans to demolish some of the houses to build a bridge but it is still in the planning stage and attracting much controversy. The inhabitants are planned to be moved to the less characterful single storey concrete houses on stills at the lower end of the Kampong. It’s a little strange to see people’s cars parked on the opposite side of the Kampong – there are loads, and another reason why I say it’s not quite like similar Kampong’s I’ve seen. You should expect to pay about between 15 – 20 Brunei dollars for an hour’s tour of the Kampong. Further upstream you can see proboscis monkeys in the morning and late afternoon, but the usual boatmen will not usually take you there, you may find you have to book a tour (not cheap at 60 Brunei dollars).
About 6 kms out of town on the way to one of the two royal yacht clubs there’s a rather dry and dusty museum where they make you put your belongings including camera in a locker. See photo right. Downstairs artefacts from Iran, Turkey etc and you are left wondering about Brunei. Upstairs is about Brunei and its history. Also near the museum is the tomb of the Sultan Bolkiah which is a short walk from the road. It is in a pretty setting with frangipani trees around it, close to the river.
Tasek Merimbun, also known as Merimbun Heritage Park, is 27km (17miles) inland from Tutong, and contains Brunei’s largest lake with a tumbled down and decidedly precarious wooden walkway that used to take you all the way out over the lake and across to the island in the middle. It used to be a pretty place surrounded by forest with several walking trails. You can tell that it used to be very pretty but it has a somewhat dilapidated air about it these days.
A drive to Miri the small seaside border town in Sarawak takes you through the Shell oil town of Seria in the south of Brunei where, you can see tucked away down a lane leading towards the sea, past the Shell training and development centre, Brunei’s Billionth Barrel Oil Monument commemorating one billion barrels of crude oil from the Seria field 1 well which was the first commercially viable oil well to be drilled in 1929. This monument was commissioned by Brunei Shell Petroleum, designed by a local architect and built in 1991. It commemorates the production of billionth barrel of oil by the Seria oilfield which can be seen very close to the shore.
There’s also the Jerudong Park Playground, a huge amusement commissioned by the sultan in 1994 as a gift to his people. Until 2000, entry was free until 2000, but when it started charging, locals lost interest. According to local expats, it was around this time that various foreign workers responsible for maintaining the amusement ground left the country, so some local people laughingly joke that the rides are not quite as safe as they once were. When the Beetle went, most rides were available and she had great fun on the large roller coaster (there are two or three) and especially the log flume which does a crazy reverse at the top of a peak and whooshes down backwards (amidst much embarrassing Beetle squeaks). The second time the Beetle visited, many rides were shut down for maintenance, but it’s still a fun and occasionally spooky place to visit (where there is no lighting because the rides are closed) for an evening out. Now many rides languish, waiting for spare parts or to be re-insured but it’s still an intriguing experience to wander round the massive semi-deserted grounds in the evening.
Close to the Jerudong Amusement Park is the uber posh and very spectacular Empire Hotel, commissioned by the Sultan’s brother, Prince Jefri. This amazingly luxurious Empire Hotel which inside resembles a pastiche of all the different styles you possibly imagine, from 1920s art deco to the Harrods-like Egyptian and Greek columns is very impressive and a tourist sight in its own right – an absolute must in all its gaudy glory. There are several restaurants and buffets to sample and there is a small beach and pools as part of the grounds. Definitely worth a visit and occasionally, because of very low occupancy rates, good rates are to be had to stay in the hotel.
Getting to Brunei is easy – there are flights (including low cost airlines) from Singapore, Malaysia and Bangkok and direct flights from Europe. British subjects are allowed a thirty day visa on arrival, for others, there are different rules. There are coaches from Malaysian Sarawak to the west and you can take a very nice ferry to Labuan and then, if you wish, taken another to Kota Kinabalu in Malaysian Sabah.
Banteay Chhmar, Cambodia – a thief's paradise by Andy Brouwer
A remote and ruined temple with massive face-towers and intricate carvings shrouded in mist and jungle vegetation conjures up all the romanticism of a lost Khmer city. One such place where this is a reality is Banteay Chhmar in the north-western corner of Cambodia, close to the border with near neighbour Thailand.
Never fully excavated and inaccessible for decades due to Khmer Rouge activity in the area, Banteay Chhmar (“Narrow Fortress”) was constructed late in the 12th century, allegedly as the funerary temple of King Jayarvarman VII’s son, the Crown Prince Indravarman and four generals killed in the war against the Chams. Other scholars have suggested it was built following the death of Rajapatindralakshmi, the paternal grandmother of the King. Along with its ruined face-towers, the temple is renowned for its bas-reliefs, which cover the outer face of the enclosing gallery and includes a unique sequence of multi-armed Lokitesvaras (left).
Unfortunately these carvings have been an irresistible magnet for looters in the last few years and this pillage plumbed new depths recently with the boldest and best-organised temple robbery of all time. In all, just under half of the temple’s wall carvings have now been removed but the latest theft was discovered by accident when Thai police stopped a truck carrying no less than 117 heavy stone pieces from a dismantled wall. This has prompted a major crackdown on the plundering of artefacts from the 1,200 ancient temples scattered across the country by both Cambodian and Thai authorities. A visit by Thai Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn to Banteay Chhmar has helped to raise awareness of the plight facing these remote Khmer temples and the above picture shows her inspecting one of the bas-reliefs still in place.
Banteay Chhmar originally covered an area of 2.5 x 2km (in comparison, Angkor Thom is 3km square) and contained the main sandstone temple, a number of other religious structures and a baray (1500 x 700m) to the east of the temple. Lying outside the moat-enclosed main temple’s eastern entrance is an isolated stone rest-house, known as a dharmasala (similar to the one found at Preah Khan in Angkor). A wall measuring 250 x 190 metres surrounds the temple proper, with four gopuras in the middle of each side. Its outer face carries bas-reliefs on three tiers showing alternating military and religious scenes, recalling those of the outer gallery of the Bayon, including battle scenes featuring the Chams (left). Although some parts of the wall have collapsed, the best of the reliefs are south of the gopura on the west wall and include a series of eight colossal standing, multi-armed Lokitesvaras, facing west.
The confusing jumble of ruins that comprises the temple’s central complex gives the visitor no obvious route or path to follow and due to the tangled vegetation the best way of exploring is scrambling over gallery roofs and the large piles of collapsed stones. The long, narrow central sanctuary (170 x 40m) has interconnected galleries, gopuras and towers, both with and without carved faces (again, similar in style to those at the Bayon; pictured right). Near the centre, three face-towers stand in isolation amongst the ruins and undergrowth. To the north, west and south are three separate temples with more faces but most have collapsed and cannot be identified. Close by, a building known as the ‘Hall of Dancers’ houses a fine lintel showing half-human, half-bird apsaras, rishis and Brahma in excellent condition.
The temple complex lies sixty kilometres north of Sisophon along Route 69 and just thirteen kilometres from the Thai border. From Sisophon, it takes around 2 hours on a motorbike to travel the 43 kilometres to the village of Thmar Puok and then another seventeen kilometres to the south-west corner of the moat surrounding Banteay Chhmar. The road follows the moat around to the east side and a broad causeway, flanked by the baray, signals the entrance to the temple-city. Foreign visitors have so far been few and far between, although the improved security situation in the area will one day make the temple a popular diversion for those taking the overland route from Thailand into Cambodia via Poipet. A recent [2000] visitor to the site, Phalla from Angkor Adventures, confirmed that soldiers act as guides for the few travellers that make it up there and charge a $5 entrance fee. He took the pictures that you see above.
The photographs below, courtesy of Lisa Cox, are some of the stolen Banteay Chhmar friezes and carvings on display in the National Museum in Bangkok in March 2000. Under an agreement between the two countries, these sculptures will be repatriated back to Cambodia very soon but in the meantime they are on public display. They include two large wall bas-reliefs of multi-armed Lokitesvaras, large heads of asuras, a winged garuda, a stone inscription and other priceless artefacts.
There are a lot more ruins tucked away in the remote north-western corner between Sisophon and the former Khmer Rouge stronghold of Anlong Veng in the north. Continuing on from Banteay Chhmar, a large complex called Banteay Top (‘Army Citadel’) lies a few kilometres away in deep jungle and along with a handful of other temples, Prasat Mebon, Prasat Taphrom, Prasat Samnang Tasok and Prasat Ta Preav could form a tourist circuit in the future, according to UNESCO and the Ministry of Culture, who have installed guards and cleared vegetation in recent months. There’s also Prasat Rovieng, an early brick structure on Route 69, near Bak Noem and an Angkorean period bridge on Route 68 south of Chong Kal, with a fairly large Angkor-era structure nearby.
If you have any more information on these sites, please let me know, I can be contacted by e-mail on: andy.brouwer@btinternet.com or for more information on Andy’s travels, visit his website which has lots of travelogue stories with pictures: http://www.btinternet.com/~andy.brouwer/index.htm
VisitBulgaria by Charlie Mellor
What does the average person want from their summer holiday? Whether it be sightseeing or sunbathing, something lively or laid back, a holiday with friends, as a couple or as a family, Bulgaria has something for everyone; a phrase often used but rarely true as it is in this case. Top of the list for a lot of people would be value for money; with two weeks all inclusive in the popular resort of Sunny each at £609pp or a week’s bed and breakfast at an incredible £250pp this is a box definitely ticked and amazingly without any kind of compromise.
The local currency is the Bulgarian Lev, currently 2.57 to the pound and you wont need to spend many of these while you’re there; the average three course meal is just £5 and a bottle of wine from a restaurant £3.50. Should you take the bed and breakfast option you’ll be spoilt for choice as to where to eat, with more than enough restaurants in the resort to eat at a different one for every meal and a huge variety of dishes to choose from. If you like a drink, most bars don’t just serve cocktails, but give you two for the price of one and happy hour lasts all night!
If sunbathing is your thing, you’ll be more than pleased with the eight kilometre stretch of beautiful golden sand (hence the name Sunny Beach). To cool down, the variety of water sports available on the beach are great fun!
On the other hand, if you prefer sightseeing and exploring whilst on holiday, there is certainly no shortage of things to see and do. Varna is just an hour’s drive away, with a city centre great for shopping as well as a fabulous park with an assortment of pretty flowers and trees to walk amongst. This park is also home to an open air theatre, planetarium, aquarium, small zoo and the only dolphinarium in the Balkans. A riverboat ride at Sozopol could take you turtle spotting, or venture further inland to the dense forest covered mountains. Khans tent is situated here, another popular venue for tourists, providing a four course meal and nights entertainment with dancers, jugglers, mime artists and more. The old town of Nessebar is within walking distance, or a short bus or taxi ride away if you prefer. The narrow cobbled streets here are busy with locals selling souvenirs and local produce such as wonderfully detailed hand painted pottery, engraved wooden trinket boxes and silver jewellery. A few small churches are open to tourists to take a look around and of course there are plenty of places to eat and drink. If you still run out of things to do, the magnificent Turkish capital city of Istanbul isn’t far away and many tour operators organise overnight trips there.
Bulgaria has all the attractions of any beach holiday as well as being extremely affordable. The glorious sunshine is perfect for sipping a cool exotic cocktail from a sun bed and the resorts and everything within them are very clean. The people are some of the friendliest you’ll meet, very eager to please and speaking good English. Finally, Bulgaria has only become a popular holiday destination in the last couple of years; they provide the perfect holiday, but not many people have experienced it yet. So be one of the first to visit Bulgaria, because now the secret is out you certainly won’t be one of the last!
About the author: my name is Charlie, I’m 21 and a girl not a boy! I’ve always had an interest in the media but only recently had an urge to actually do something about it, and this is the first piece of writing I’ve submitted to anyone. Beetle – congrats, Charlie on your first published article, we enjoyed reading it at the Globetrotters Club.