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Meeting News from London

Globetrotters meeting 5th July 2003 by Padmassana

This month we enjoyed slides from club members encompassing destinations all round the Globe. So going (very) roughly in a westerly direction from London this is what we saw. The architecture and vineyards of Paris and London (Dick Curtis). We headed north to the spectacular Northern lights (Dan and Dwayne). In southern Europe we saw what the Aeolian Islands have to offer for walkers (Jeannie Copland). Across the Med’ we saw the sand and towns of Libya (John Williams).

Heading into Asia we saw the Teji Festival in Mustang (Marianne Heredge) before heading north-west via the Karakoram Highway to the Silk route of western China. (Neil Harris). In Thailand we saw the Karan people with their decorative neck wear. (Helen Barnhill). Our next stop was the wonderful South Korean island of Cheju. (Kevin Brackley). We then crossed to Japan for views of Kyoto. (Sue Baker). Across the Pacific to the Argentinean capital Buenos Aires. (Phil Ferguson). Finally we saw a series of slides on the theme of water which took us from Iguacu Falls and back across the Atlantic to Iceland’s geysers and waterfalls. (Gavin Fernandes).

There is no London meeting in August. Our next London meeting will be on Saturday 6th September:

John Gimlette will talk on Paraguay – The Island surrounded by Land. Award-winning writer, John, takes us round a country that has emerged from centuries of isolation. As one of the most beguiling and eccentric places there is, we visit a vast lost ocean, the battlefields of the bloodiest war man has known, picked Victorian warships, cannibals, a highland ball and plenty more. John's book “At the Tomb of the inflatable Pig.”

Richard Snailham, a Globetrotters Club Vice President will talk about On Reed Boats down rivers in Bolivia and Paraguay. Following a hunch that cocaine and nicotine might have reached the Old World from the New in very early times, John Blashford-Snell had three reed boats built on Lake Titicaca and tested them out on the Desaquadero river and subsequently reaching Buenos Aires and Belem in similar craft.

London meetings are held at The Church of Scotland, Crown Court, behind the Fortune Theatre in Covent Garden at 2.30pm the first Saturday of each month. There is no London meeting in August, but we will be back in September. For more information, you can contact the Globetrotters Info line on +44 (0) 20 8674 6229, or visit the website: www.globetrotters.co.uk


Iris.s Diary of An Overland Trip Through South America

Iris, a British lady of considerable character and pluck, is on a 23 week overland expedition from Quito in Ecuador to Caracas in Venezuela. After this, she plans to do a 3-month voluntary placement in Ecuador, and then visit Central America for another overland trip between Panama City and Mexico City, ending up with perhaps another 2-month voluntary placement somewhere in South America again. This amazing journey will take Iris one year. Here is an extract from Iris’ journey notebook.

15 of our overland gang left us in Ushaia – not because they had come to the end of their trip but because they wanted to spend more time in Ushaia and so, at their own expense opted to stay on in hotels longer and to fly up to Buenos Aires (BA) in order to spend more time there as well. They would then join up with us in BA when we arrived there after spending five days travelling overland.

The remainder of us, 8 including our drivers/tour leaders, then travelled up to BA in a marathon 3,000 km plus journey, so that most of our time was spend on the road, with only two short visits to a petrified forest and a penguin colony to break the monotony and to give us a bit of extra comfort, we opted to drive further on one particular day so that we could spend a night in a hotel! The rest of the time was spent in rough camps along the way!

The petrified forest was in the middle of nowhere. It was very low key, just a park warden looking after a solitary outpost, guarding relics from some 5 million years ago and which they considered were the remains of an enormous forest full of gigantic trees which had suddenly and catastrophically been buried after several natural disasters and which had miraculously been uncovered again in subsequent earth movements. It comprised some enormous trunks lying on the surface of the ground over an extensive area and looked to this lay person’s eye like the remains from some ancient logging ground where the chain saws had been removed and the trunks just left fragmented where they lay. But they were of course now turned to stone. We arrived in the evening at about 1800 and had about an hour to walk round and look at these relics, but unfortunately none of us could really appreciate them because we had such little information as to why they were considered so significant. There was a museum housing fauna and flora of the region and depicting the course of events over several 100 million years but as everything was in Spanish and only one sparse leaflet in English, it was rather disappointing that we did not have a suitable guide to explain it all to us.

We stayed that night in a really rough camp site, again, in the middle of nowhere, which seemed frequented more by roaming labourers from local roadworks rather than the normal tourist place. We lit up a barbecue and ate good steaks that night, all the food having been purchased in bulk before leaving Ushaia.

The next day we pressed on, without pause to a place called Rio Gallegos, eating our lunch on the truck. We prepared it too in the truck on the move. Because the truck was so empty with just 6 instead of the usual 22 people in the back, it bumped and rattled and lurched over the rough roads perhaps more than it would have done if it had been fully laden, and so some accidents did occur with chopped salad etc, as we attempted to fill baguettes for the lunch-time snack!) But Rio Gallegos, gave us a welcome respite from camping as we stayed in a hotel that night and so had the luxury of beds and en suite showers! We went for a meal soon after booking in, and chose the restaurant on the other side of the road to the hotel, where family groups were eating three course meals at midnight! This is the norm in Argentina, as people tend to go out to eat in the late evening, but not before 2130 and even later!

Our next excursion was to a penguin colony that was situated near a place called Camarones, where we camped for the night close to the beach. We spent just an hour and a half at the colony. Penguins breed there and apparently stay for three years, growing up, before making any sea journeys. The whole area was full of young penguins, some already moulted, others younger and still covered in baby fur and all sorts of others in the in-between state looking as if they had all rescued their coats from moth infested wardrobes! However, although it was great to walk among them (along a designated footpath from which we were not allowed to stray) the penguins ignored this. They were allowed to stray on to the footpath and so we had a few very interesting encounters, as they are inquisitive birds, totally unfazed by humans walking around, and so they would pause and swivel their heads almost through a full 180 degrees to try and focus on us and work out who we were!

These two visits were the sum total of sightseeing on the 5 days it took to travel in our overland truck from Ushaia to BA and so we arrived in that capital city ready for a rest and some comfortable beds!

Next Month, Buenos Aires and Uruguay.

If you’d like to contact Iris, whether to wish her luck with her trip or to ask questions about her itinerary and places visited, I am sure she would like to hear from you. She can be contacted on: irisej2002@yahoo.co.uk


Padmassana Travels To Japan – Part 1

I’ve been to Japan before, to Honshu, but have not explored the southern parts, so this trip was designed at seeing Kyushu. I flew into Fukuoka as an entry point via Seoul that is a lot cheaper than going to Nagasaki. My trip had three bases: I used Beppu as a base to see the Hells, and Usuki, Kagoshima to see Sakaragima (a volcano), Ibosuki (sand baths), Shiran (the kamikaze museum) and finally Kamomoto for the city itself and Mt Aso.

Kyushu is nothing like as busy as Honshu and doesn’t seem quite as affluent. The trains and buses all ran on time. Kyushu is probably cheaper than Honshu for accommodation – I spent on average £23 a night in mostly Ryokans – good value – and can all be booked through the Japanese Inn group. There are also far fewer foreigners and tourists in Kyushu than Honshu.

It's less than a year since I last came through Seoul airport. A year ago it was a busy, heaving place with all the restaurants and shops packed out. Today you can go in anywhere and do anything without waiting. I think SARS is having a big effect. There are lots of people walking around with masks on, should I have got one I ask myself? There’s not even much in the shops. I just cannot believe how quiet this airport is, there's nobody rushing, no announcements, there's only about 10 flights on the departures board.

Arrived in the city with the best 3-letter airport code I know Fukuoka (FUK)!!! Got the shuttle bus then the ultra efficient metro in to the city. I was glad that I had my compass to come out of right exit. Then a 10 min walk to my hotel: very nice, tiny room, probably big for Japan, but it has a bed, shower, TV and its own ultra efficient kettle, very handy! Apparently a rice breakfast is included but as I didn’t wake up till 9am, I missed it! Fukuoka is a big modern city, nobody here has a mask on there is not much for a tourist to see, it is more of an entry port.

I took a side trip from Fukuoka to Dazaifu to see a shrine and a couple of Zen gardens. They are great with all their symbolism. Loads of parties of school kids going “Herro” i.e. “hello” and “England number 1”. All of it is good natured, and people have been so helpful: I had 3 old dears put me on the right train this morning!

Took ages to cash travellers cheques, because they are issued by Barclays via Sumitomo Bank. This meant that I had to find a Sumitomo Bank to cash them. It rained yesterday afternoon, so I went to a baseball match in the Fukuoka Dome, which was fun. I like baseball, and went to lots of games when I visited the USA. The Japanese cheerleaders are nuts, they keep up this constant barrage of noise and at 7th inning stretch they all let off balloons with whistles in – you should hear it! Also visited the museum of contemporary Asian art, some nice things and some so decidedly strange that they would not look amiss in the Tate Modern in London!

I’m surviving with the food ok, (Padmassana has been known to be a bit of a picky eater – the Beetle!) bought some hot tofu on sticks and stuck them in some bread rolls with my pea crisps for a picnic today, they even have little pods! KFC etc for major meals. Body clock not happy, keep waking between 2am-4am, then can’t get back to sleep till 6am.

Up early today, getting the train to Beppu. Took about 4 hours to get from Fukuoka to Beppu. Beppu is famous for the Hells. If anyone tells you Beppu is a “Hell” of a place it’s true! I checked in at Beppu Hotel and went to the tourist office to ask for directions. The man at the tourist office took me right to the door. I don’t think that would happen in London!

The Hells, as I have already said are Beppu’s claim to fame: a series of hot springs that are different colours due to the underlying rocks and minerals etc, one is bright red. A 2,000 yen ticket allows you visit all seven. Some are boiling mud pots, but most are steam. The last one is a sort of geyser that explodes every 20 minutes. It took me 4 hours to go round them including a bus ride between two sets.

Did a day trip from Beppu, about an hour and a half by train to visit some stone Buddhas, dating from the 10th century. You walk up a short hill and then see lines of Buddhas carved into the hill. These are reputed to be the best and oldest examples of stone Buddhas in Japan. Also visited Usuki from Beppu. The town itself is quite nice, has an old street of houses that are interesting. There was torrential rain, so the rent a brolly lady was doing a good trade! I am staying in a business type hotel that has free tea on every floor. I managed to sleep through the night for the first time since arriving. Despite the weather, another nice day, a country where you feel safe and the people are fantastic.

In Part 2, Padmassana tells us about Miyazaki and the clay statues and the journey to Kagoshima. If you would like to contact Padmassana to ask him about his time in Japan, he can be e-mailed on: Padmassana


Free London Museums: Royal Air Force Museum

If you are into airplanes, then this is the place for you: Britain's National Museum of aviation features over 70 full-sized aircraft including a unique collection of British, German and Italian planes.

The Museum also houses a flight simulator, 'Touch and Try' Jet Provost Trainer and Sunderland Flying Boat 'walk through' experience.

Address: Grahame Park Way, NW9.

Open: Daily, 1000-1800

Tube: Colindale Rail: Mill Hill Broadway.

Enquiries: 020 8205 2266 Entrance: FREE.


So You Think You’re Well Travelled?

Here’s a little Beetle quiz based on airport codes. See how many you get right! Go on, have a guess!

Which cities are served by airports with the following codes:

  1. MSY
  2. FCO
  3. MEL
  4. LXR
  5. CMB

For the answers, see at the end of the e-newsletter.


British Airways E-Mail Hoax

You may have received an e-mail saying that British Airways is giving away free plane tickets to anywhere in the world to anyone who forwards the e-mail to 10 or more people – it is sadly a hoax.

The e-mail claims that it is encouraging more people to fly, following a downturn in the airlines industry because of concerns about the SARS virus and the war in Iraq. It also says that British Airways is working with Microsoft who is allegedly monitoring the distribution of the message. It’s just not true, I’m afraid, so delete them.


UK TV Show Needs Volunteers

Would you like to take part in a documentary we are currently making for Channel 4? It is provisionally titled Travellers Tales, and is about travellers who have experienced tropical illnesses. Perhaps… you unwittingly transported a bot-fly home from a remote destination? You got lost at sea? You are being de-wormed for tapeworms? You were made part of drug smuggling scam? You were held hostage by terrorists? You left the country on a mission to solve a medical mystery? You survived a natural calamity? Or are you still staggered by a memorable bout of Delhi Belly? Perhaps you even know a British traveller currently receiving treatment in a clinic or hospital abroad?

I would like to hear about your experience of the places you have been to in addition to accounts of any illnesses you might have had. I am concerned with illnesses ranging from diarrhoea to dengue and would be very interested to hear your story – funny or painful – with a view to including it in the documentary. Should you be interested in taking part, your journeys will be portrayed accurately and responsibly.

The idea is to tell people's cautionary tales as a way of helping viewers understand the need to prepare for travel to far flung places in the world and to offer some suggestions of how to deal with problems should they arise.

If you have a gripping story to tell or know anyone who has been afflicted by long haul travel OR have faced unplanned challenges, please do get in touch. If you have been ill contact catherine.brindley@rdfmedia.com If you have a story to tell about the severe hardships you faced the please contact danny.horan@rdfmedia.com


Have you got a tale to tell?

If you have a travellers tale that your aching to tell. Then why not visit the “Travel Sized Bites” section of the Website and share it with the world. Travel Sized Bites


Budget Airline Easyjet Gets Into Trouble

Budget airline EasyJet has been told by a UK advertising watchdog to make the true cost of its flights clearer in its adverts. The carrier must include potential taxes and other costs alongside the price of the flight. This response came about as a result of complaints about three adverts promoting flights “from just £1”.


Eco-tax on Balearics set to be abolished

Visitor figures to the Balearic Islands have slumped because of a controversial eco-tax introduced just a year ago.

The tax, (around £12 million raised so far) paid by tourists to the islands, started in May 2002 to counter the environmental damage caused by mass tourism.

The levy proved very unpopular with families visiting Mallorca, Menorca, Ibiza or Formentera as it added as much as £70 to their total holiday cost.

The tax now looks likely to be abolished by the islands' newly-elected government.


London Tube Tales

“Ladies and Gentlemen do you want the good news first or the bad news?

“The good news is that last Friday was my birthday and I hit the town and had a great time. I felt sadly let down by the fact that none of you sent me a card! I drive you to work and home each day and not even a card.”

“The bad news is that there is a points failure somewhere between Stratford and East Ham, which means that we probably won't reach our destination for a good ninety minutes yet. We may have to stop and return. I won't reverse back up the line – simply get out, walk up the platform and go back to where we started. In the meantime if you get bored you can simply talk to the man in front or beside you or opposite you.”

“Let me start you off: “Hi, my name's Gary how do you do?”


Mac Tells US About Round the World Walker

U. S. Soldiers Home, Mac: I am a compulsive reader and pick up any newspaper, any printed matter I see laying around and start reading.

This is from January 14, 2003 issue of Examiner newsmagazine. Nick Jeffreys write about a guy walking around the world. The walker is Karl Bushby from Hull, England. He is a 33 years old ex-paratrooper. He began the walk Nov l, l998 at the tip of Chile. Has walked 12,00 miles so far going through Peru, Costa Rica, Nicaragua, Guatemala and Mexico. He goes 20 miles a day every day and has nine years to go.

He started out with $500 sewn into his jacket (I would probably absent mindedly lay the jacket down some place.) His mom and dad send money and replace his boots every 1,178 miles. His website is www.earthtrekuk.net and there is a lot of info on it, about Karl, why he is doing it, his Colombian girlfriend and more.

He pulls a small aluminium cart with his gear tent, sleeping bag, food, and water behind him When his provisions run out, he lives off the land. A picture of the cart shows that it has large wheels. I always like large wheels on carts as they pull easier and easier to pull up and down stairs. He was in a Panamanian jail for l8 days “in a stinking cell with crooks of all varieties,” for not having the correct visa.

When his journey is over in 2010 he is not sure what he will do next. “But he has a lot of time to think about it. “ Maybe I will just throw myself in front of the TV and never move again.” If I am ever thrown out of the soldier’s home I live in, I hope he will loan me his cart and I will try to follow in his footsteps, although, at 79 I may just be dreaming!


Tahir Shah’s Film on C5, UK TV

If you live in the UK, and have access to Channel 5, then switch on, tune on to Search for the lost city of Gold, Channel 5, 9pm Weds 9th July> Thank you,


Travel Quiz

Win a Moon guidebook on Yellowstone and Grand Teton. See www.moon.com for info on Moon guidebooks.

Some people have said the quiz is difficult, we say do some research; try google.com or Ask Jeeves, if you need help with the answers. One submission, only, please!

The winner of last month's Moon guide is Judith Phillips. Please send us your postal address, Judith!

1. In which US state can the Yellowstone National Park be found?

2. Moose are members of the deer family – true or false?

3. What is the name of Yellowstone’s most famous geyser?

4. Which Grand Teton lake is named after the wife of an early settler, Beaver Dick Leigh?

5. What is the name of Wyoming’s largest river?

Your Name:

Your e-mail address:


Physiotherapy – Matt Maddocks

Matt is a volunteer at the Old Boma, Mikindani, Southern Tanzania.

During a visit last year to Mikindani, I was informed of a physiotherapist working in Nyanguo mission hospital and having now started my degree in this subject I decided to try and gain some experience. Arriving I was happy to find the hospital staff willing to have me for the day.

Physiotherapy is a treatment supplementary to medicine and aims to bring people back to as high a possible level of recovery. In its simplest form it is finding out what a patient wishes to achieve and working towards that by doing things differently or using treatments. I had the opportunity to go on the ward rounds at the hospital and saw many patients and got to see the differences of practices here in Tanzania compared to the UK.

The cause of hospitalisation can be more bizarre here: one patient had been washing his hands in a river when a crocodile bit his arm. Although he was severely wounded there was no loss of nervous tissue, so exercises could be done to help him regain hand movements. Another patient had fallen from a coconut tree and broke his back so was regaining strength in his upper body after prolonged traction.

Physiotherapists can have time to sit and talk to patients, which allows you to find out a lot more about them, their problems, and local life. A female road worker suffering from ‘good old lower back pain’ revealed that she had visited a witch doctor, which had resulted in infection and incidentally, increased pain.

The most rewarding part of the day was spending time with one small girl who had fractured her femur, trying to get her to use small crutches. She was very active and enthusiastic, and after some effort she could manage alone. We also visited the paediatric ward to play ball games with the kids to keep them active. Here the physiotherapist had done a great job building relationships with the children, which made it easy to fit in and create conversation with them.

The sight of a child overwhelmed by cancerous growths or a victim of major burn injuries was not pleasant but obviously these sorts of things are expected in hospitals. However, unfortunately all of the cases were affected by the patients' financial situation and therefore ability to pay fro treatment. Without payment, treatments are not given and, this being true of government hospitals also, many people are left to suffer. I could only be left thinking how much luckier we are to have the British National Health Service to fall back on.

However having read several articles about hinting that only the ‘dark’ side of Africa it told, I always try to pick out the magical things here of which there are many. A wedding is such a colourful and happy event, and the end of Ramadan is always an event to remember with the children dressed in new clothing and adults enjoying the night. Everything I have experienced here thus far seems to be more enhanced than at home and I encourage anyone to come and see things for themselves.

For more information about Trade Aid, volunteers and their work, please visit their website www.mikindani.com


Solomon Islands

The Australian and New Zealand governments have both said they will commit to sending army and police forces to nearby troubled Solomon Islands. The on-going ethnic violence has resulted in the country being dangerous to visit, which is a huge shame as the Beetle can strongly recommend the wreck diving in the Solomons as being among the best in the world. Authorities fear that if the current lawlessness continues, the country will be used as a base by terrorists, money launderers and drug traffickers.


Place Names

Same names: how many place names have you come across that are the same, but different countries? There’s Paris Texas and Paris France. Other place names include Versailles in Kentucky and Versailles in France; Naples and Venice in Florida and Naples and Venice in Italy. Do you have any favourites? Write in and tell the Beetle!


Balearics to Mainland Spain

Anyone planning to visit Mallorca and Ibiza can now pop over to the Spanish mainland on a new high-speed ferry service. The catamaran service can carry up to 900 passengers and up to 265 cars. The routes include Palma to Ibiza in two hours, and Ibiza to Valencia in three hours. The journey will cost €56 per person or €65 to take a car. For more info, visit www.trasmediterranea.es


Guide Books

Recently, the Beetle was asked about Guidebooks – what is out there and can she make any recommendations? Below is a commentary on a selection of some of the guidebooks available:

Eyewitness guides, published by Dorling Kindersley produce glossy guidebooks with lots of pictures on cities and also countries. The city guides are especially good although a little heavy and longer than most of the others. The Beetle particularly recommends these for short city breaks as they provide lots of background detail about certain sites or attractions and exploded diagrams of the insides of churches or palaces etc. They are not so great about telling you how to get to and from some of the attractions, although the Istanbul guide was excellent and rated better in a recent trip there than the corresponding LP on Istanbul. See www.dk.com

Fodor’s used more by the North American market and for slightly more wealthy travellers than backpackers, although they do have shoestring guides too. They tend to be fairly slim volumes and are particularly strong on North America, Mexico and the Caribbean. Take a look at www.fodors.com/

Footprint guides have very good guides on South American countries. They also do Canada, (not the US), selected European and African countries, Middle East and a good range of SE Asia. At the time the Beetle was backpacking around South America, the Footprint individual country guides were a lot better than the LP guides, in particular that awful huge tome LP produces on all S American countries! For more info, see footprinttravelguides.com

Frommer’s – used more by the North American travel market and appear to be aimed at a slightly more affluent market than backpackers – unless anyone would like to write in and disagree! The maps are generally good, and a lot of emphasis is placed on reviewing pubs, restaurants, hotels, bed and breakfasts etc. A quick look at a guide on Ireland, Jury’s Court Inn in Cork is described as inexpensive at $61 and up for a room. Otherwise they offer slightly pared down info on LP and RG. Frommer’s also do portable guides that you can download onto your palm pilot or similar not to mention a magazine and an e-newsletter. They are strong on the number of Caribbean titles. For more info on Frommer’s guides, see www.frommers.com

Insight Guides publish over 200 titles, again quite glossy, good photos – more of a coffee table book than a guidebook to take with you on a trip. This kind of book may be useful for planning a trip as it has the glossy pictures, but I would not take it on a trip to use as a guidebook. For more info, see http://www.insightguides.com

Lonely Planet – see also the Lonely Planet Thorn Tree website for sources of travel information. Lonely Planet, or LP is the granddaddy of modern guidebooks. People tend to either love LP or they hate it, and if the latter, their usual choice is Rough Guide (RG). The Beetle prefers the LP because it usually has good maps, (some colour pictures!) and she likes to know about every single restaurant and hostel available at the time of writing and feels quite aggrieved when only a selection are given (as in the RG)! Whilst prices change, you can always work out the ratio of increase so that you still have a rough idea of potential prices. See www.lonelyplanet.com

Moon has been going 25 years and produce guides covering Americas, Asia, and the Pacific. They are slightly biased to the US market but do nevertheless produce good guidebooks with good maps and lots of detailed information. The Beetle finds that Moon Guide distinguish themselves on regions, particularly US states rather than entire countries, for example excellent guides on New Mexico, Kauai, Mexico City etc. If I were to visit a US state, then this is the book I would take with me – lots of good maps, and local info. They also have city guides called Moon Metro and include San Francisco, New York, Paris. For more info, see www.moon.com

Rother guidebooks are about walking. They are a very handy size, good for slipping into a pocket, they usually have around 50 walking routes per guidebook, with fabulously detailed maps, giving you all the info you need such as grade of walk, approximate time to take, refreshments available en route, how to get there and return. The Beetle likes these books very much – if you are a walker, then these are for you! Destinations covered include many different parts of the Mediterranean, and Norway and Iceland. For more info, see www.cordee.co.uk

Rough Guides – as discussed above, we tend to find that people either love these or hate them. They have just as good a range in titles as LP, and they are very popular. They are just as comprehensive in terms of information as the LP, but in a very different format. Both LP and RG publish language guidebooks and a newsletter. Rough Guide tends to place hotels, hostels, restaurants etc in price brackets, but nonetheless give you enough info to make a decision re restaurant or hotel. For more info, see www.roughguides.com/

Trailblazers a small UK based company that do excellent guides particularly on walking and trekking, so if this is your thing, then these books will give you very details routes with distance, estimated times, danger points, and a whole load of walking or hiking – even climbing activities. For more info, see: www.trailblazerbooks.co.uk

Ulysses publish two series of travel guides and are strong on Canada, the US and Central America. The Beetle bought Ulysses guides on Panama, Honduras and El Salvador when there was nothing else available, and they were really very good. They also do language guides. For more info, see www.ulyssesguides.com

Do you have a favourite guidebook, or one that was just terrible? E-mail the Beetle and let us know about it!