It was 8.30am and I was waiting for Rosanna White in the early morning
 sunshine, sheltered in the shade of a palm tree in front of the Independence
 Monument. Rosanna is the volunteer co-ordinator for the Sunrise Children's
 Village, a Phnom Penh orphanage with a high profile, due in no small part
 to the extraordinary efforts of its founder and patron, Geraldine Cox.
 Described by some as 'larger than life', Geraldine was on one
 of her regular trips abroad seeking out funds to keep the orphanage afloat
 and the day to day administration was in the capable hands of Rosanna.
 I'd been in e-mail contact with both of them for a few months before
 my trip and they'd kindly invited me to visit the orphanage, temporarily
 located in Takhmau, some fifteen kilometres south of Phnom Penh, the capital
 of Cambodia.
Geraldine's high profile – she's written a book, there's
 an award-winning documentary about her life and a feature film in the
 offing – and her tireless work go towards providing a home for around
 fifty disadvantaged Cambodian children between the ages of 3 and 18. Most
 are orphans, all have sad tales to tell, but the orphanage provides them
 with love, food and shelter as well as regular schooling and extra English,
 computer, sewing, music and dance classes, designed to give them the chance
 of a brighter future. It’s a worthy cause that many Australians
 support with individual and corporate sponsorship. However, as Rosanna
 explained on our drive out to Takhmau, a great deal of extra funding,
 as much as $600,000, is needed to fulfil the Sunrise dream envisioned
 when Prime Minister Hun Sen donated ten hectares of rent-free land to
 the orphanage. It's certainly an ambitious project and the publicity
 created by the support of some very famous Hollywood names is currently
 giving it real momentum, while Geraldine's powers of persuasion continue
 to play their part in making the dream come true.
A toot of the horn and the gates of a nondescript villa opened up as
 Sopheun, the orphanage’s housemother, welcomed us. Rosanna received
 an update on the latest batch of cuts and bruises, tantrums and colds
 (and the theft of a bicycle) since her last visit a couple of days earlier
 before giving me a guided tour of the tidy, but cramped house and grounds.
 On the ground floor were the girls’ dormitories (the boys sleep
 upstairs), with hammocks and mattresses taking up most of the space and
 a few of the girls busily drawing pictures with coloured crayons. Outside,
 the more boisterous boys were playing games of tag and marbles and I joined
 in a game of football with Chanry and Sin Long, two eight year olds, who
 were obviously best of friends and who hammed it up for my camera. I also
 showed my skills, or lack of them, with another group who were playing
 'tot sey' (foot shuttlecock).
Nearby was the well-stocked computer room, where Phalla, the computer
 teacher, was fixing a PC on his day off with the help of a couple of the
 older teenagers. He showed me how the recent rains had flooded the room
 and damaged the wooden computer stands and was very keen to hear about
 my website devoted to my travels in Cambodia. Outside, I met Sok An, the
 head cook, who was preparing vegetables for the children's lunch with
 some of the older girls under an awning in the concrete yard, when Sary
 and her wheelchair (she's the only disabled child in the orphanage)
 whizzed past and came to a halt at the water tap, where she began washing
 some clothes. Rosanna explained that Sary, a polio sufferer, is now learning
 to walk with the aid of callipers and a brace and is fiercely independent,
 but an absolute sweetie.
Upstairs, we visited the volunteers’ room, which also houses the
 medicine cabinet and is where Geraldine, the patron, sleeps when she's
 in town. Next door, the dance and music practice was already in full swing.
 The children are working hard in preparation for a once in a lifetime
 visit to Australia for an arts festival, and rehearsals form a key part
 of each day for those lucky enough to be going. The orphanage is home
 to about fifty children and over half of them will be making the trip
 to Adelaide in March. Today was a Sunday, so no school meant extra practice
 sessions for the dancers and musicians. In a cramped room, I grabbed a
 seat to watch the dance teacher, Monitha, guiding a group of the youngest
 girls – six to eight year olds – through their traditional Khmer dance
 routine. They were delightful and were followed by the youngest boys who
 danced and banged their coconut shells in harmony as Srey Mao, the youngest
 of the girls with a smile and a nature guaranteed to melt any heart, sat
 on my knee to watch her friends perform.
At the back of the room, some of the children were playing traditional
 Khmer instruments to accompany the dances and were being tutored by 70-something
 year old Mr Chea and his daughter Thierry, both outstanding musicians
 in their own right. Next on the dance floor were the teenage girls and
 particularly 17 year old Srey Mich, the orphanage's leading dancer
 who glided across the floor with grace and poise in abundance. Following
 them, as the tempo increased, were a mixed group of four boys and four
 girls who moved in well-rehearsed unison and who rounded off a thoroughly
 enjoyable hour watching the children perform. In fact, I enjoyed it so
 much I forgot to take any photos until near the end. I was mightily impressed.
 This wasn't a performance staged for visiting guests but a daily practice
 session, yet the timing and elegance of all the dancers, whatever their
 age, was a joy to watch. They'd worn their normal clothes for the
 practice, so I'm sure they'll look even more professional when
 they wear their hand-sewn costumes for the real thing.
I had another quick kick-about in the courtyard with Chanry and Sin Long
 as Rosanna did her final rounds of the villa with most of the children
 giving her a goodbye hug. Then it was back in the 4WD and out into the
 busy back streets of Takhmau and our return to Phnom Penh. My visit to
 the orphanage had been a brief but thoroughly enjoyable one. The children
 I met were happy, the level of laughter and their playful nature made
 that abundantly clear, but their temporary premises are simply too small.
 It’s a stopgap until the Sunrise Children's Village and the
 dreams of Geraldine, Rosanna and the children themselves become a reality.
 I sincerely hope that's sooner rather than later.
To visit the Sunrise Children's Village website,
 click here.
For more information on Andy’s travels, visit his website which
 has lots of travelogue stories with pictures: http://www.btinternet.com/~andy.brouwer/index.htm