A recent report in Cyber Diver News says that tourists and scuba diver numbers have fallen by almost a third to between 300,000 and 100,000 a month. This is serious stuff for Malaysia as tourism is the country’s second largest earner of foreign exchange. The fall in numbers was triggered by the Bali bombing but a particularly hard line message that sunbathers should cover up (e.g. no bikinis) has not helped.
Category Archives: archive
MEETING NEWS
Meeting news from our branches around the world.
Does a Stopover Count as a Visit to a Country?
Nick from London says that he thinks that it does not really count if you have only been to the inside of an airport in a particular country, though others may argue this point. There are other brief visits I have made to countries. For instance, a couple of years ago I was holidaying in Thailand and took one of those long tail boat trips on the Mekong river in the Golden Triangle. During the short journey the boat driver called in at a jetty on the Lao side of the river for petrol.
Aha! I thought to myself, This is an opportunity to visit Laos! I leapt off the boat and walked up the jetty and spent a couple of minutes on the riverbank on the Lao side of the river. So I have had a very short “visit” to Laos, at least I have stood on Laotian soil, but of course I can't really say that I have been to the country in any usual sense. Perhaps others have similar rapid drop ins on countries? Write in and let the Beetle know what you think!
Absolutely True!
Sent in by Bretislav in the Czech Republic, spotted on cbc.ca
ST. JOHN'S – A woman who fell asleep on a flight to Newfoundland and wound up in England has been offered 15,000 bonus aeroplan miles by the airline. Air Canada apologized to Catherine Coyle late Monday and offered her the air miles for her troubles. The airline also said she was partly responsible for falling asleep on the 90-minute flight from Halifax to St. John's and not waking up on time. Last Thursday, the Cole Harbour, N.S., woman was on a flight to visit her ill mother. She fell asleep and woke up to hear the pilot announce a 4-hour flight time. The plane was half an hour out of St. John's heading for London. Coyle had apparently slept through the landing at St. John's and a 30-minute stopover before the flight for England. No one had tried to wake her up to check her ticket. The pilot refused to turn the plane around and she had to continue to Heathrow airport, where she waited two hours for a return flight.
Write in and tell us your jokes, anecdotes, mishaps, funny things you’ve seen! Drop a line to the Beetle! E-mail the Beetle.
Meeting News from London
Globetrotters meeting on 1st February by Padmassana
David Abram was up first and gave us a very interesting talk on Trekking in Corsica. David has spent long periods in Corsica in order to research his Trailblazer guidebook. He told us that the cheapest way to get there is to take a No-Frills cheap flight to either Marseilles or Nice and then take a ferry across to the island. David first showed us the easier coastal walks; we saw the azure seas and waves crashing on to rocky headlands. The main route for Trekking/walking on Corsica is the GR20, which winds its way 170 Km across the islands roof. The route has an altitude change of 19,000 Metres. David explained that although his photos of the route looked daunting to all but experienced mountaineers, including parts where it was necessary to use cables and ladders, most reasonably fit people can manage the route. The GR20 route is for the most part well marked with waypoints. It is divided into 16 stages, which most of the 17,000 people who do the walk each year complete in around 12 days. David finished up with some Corsican music and some of his favourite photos of Corsica. In next month’s e-news we are lucky enough to have one of David’s stories about his time in Corsica – look out for it!
After the interval our second speaker was Peter Nasmyth whose talk was entitled Caucasus adventure. Peter kicked off with photos of snow-capped peaks like Mt Elbrus and hilltop churches, lit by the intermittent electricity supply. This region has many surprises for the visitor; it’s a place where the locals drink toasts to Stalin (he was a Georgian) and to Adolf Hitler (he fought the communists). Other surprises were a bubbling carbonated lake, surrounded by red mineral covered rocks. Tblisi is the Georgian capital, we saw old areas where balconies over hang the streets and a tower block that was once the best hotel in town, but is now a home to many refugees from the wars in neighbouring countries like Ossetia and Chechnya. Peter’s photos of the local people included traditional dress that has built in bullet holders and knives in the waistband of trousers. The Caucasus is an area where it is possible to go heli-skiing, by renting a helicopter and heading up into the mountains, very popular with German skiers. Peter finished by telling us about his charity, which helps the local children, who are bright and well educated, but have little to channel their energies into. Peter also helped establish Prosperos bookshop. The first English language cafe bookshop, which according to Peter sells the best coffee in the Caucasus.
Coming up: Saturday 1st March
Leslie Downer – “Sadayakko and her amazing journey around the World.” Sadayakko was a geisha and Japan's first actress. In 1900 she enchanted audiences around the World from san Francisco, New York, London, fin-de-siecle Paris, Vienna and St. Petersburg. Part II of Leslie's geisha adventures. Geoff Roy – “Great Wall of China” is the longest man-made structure on Earth- stretching from the Yellow Sea to Tibet (6,700kms.) Geoff's talk covers walking on restored, as well as un-restored sections of “wild wall”
London meetings are held at The Church of Scotland, Crown Court, behind the Fortune Theatre in Covent Garden at 2.30pm the first Saturday of each month. There is no London meeting in August, but we will be back in September. For more information, you can contact the Globetrotters Info line on +44 (0) 20 8674 6229, , or register for email updates at at our website (click here)
A Round the World Trip by Stephen Petter in the UK
My partner and I (aged 55 and 65) went RTW for 12 months to April 2002. She has written a book on it but is looking for a publisher. I went to internet cafes to maintain a long journal. So rather than travellers' tales here are some notes on how we did it. The RTW deal was from Star Alliance, giving us 12 months, 15 stops and 39000 miles. A couple of times when in dispute with an airline the Alliance link was useful. Their miles include overland legs which seems unfair but it is still good value. They allow backtracking, which we needed for India to China.
We flew to Brazil for two lazy weeks to get over the strain of preparations, then to Lima. We took buses – we avoided 'luxury' or 'tourist' buses -round Peru and despite being told it was impossible found a cheap way to Macchu Picchu. Three-day trips to Colca Canyon and to the Peruvian Amazon jungle. Bus and boat (aided by the Bolivian Navy!) to cold La Paz then bus on 'the most dangerous road in the world' to lovely Coroico. Flew to Costa Rica, which seemed very wealthy and grotesquely American!
But we had a wonderful time there – eco-tourism on the Caribbean coast and in the cloud forest. I wrote a report on working conditions on the banana plantations. Then buses through sad Nicaragua, tough Honduras (staying with the Garifuna) and Guatemala with its staggering range of wealth. We were in luxury after three months of back packers' hotels and crowded but fascinating bus journeys. Then we bought a car in Florida and eventually sold it in British Columbia. (One could write a book this, as on each leg of the journey.) This was not as easy as it sounds – big problems with driver's licence and insurance. But surmountable. Boat and bus to Houston BC. Strange coming back to sophistication a few days after 9/11, a different world. Hawaii then fabulous Tonga. Real bliss as the only visitors on an idyllic island, and time to think. Here my partner discovered the magic of snorkelling.
NZ was surprisingly far nicer than expected, Sydney also amazes. We were kept busy there and in Canberra and Melbourne giving talks. Thailand where we made lasting friends, one a young man not half way through 25 years imprisonment for drug smuggling. Don’t even think about it! Interesting to contrast the type of tourists here with those in S America. Almost a different breed. So to the jewel. Three months in India lived up to all my hopes and dreams. A stopover in steamy sophisticated Singapore (the night time zoo worth a visit) thence to Beijing, and onto the trans-Asia train with stops including three weeks in Mongolia (hiring a jeep to traverse the Gobi), Siberia (Lake Baikal), Moscow and glorious St Petersburg.
Stockholm was refreshing and spring time in England utterly delightful. Total cost was less than £4,000 on fares, plus £400 a week rent we got on our London homes. We ate local workers' food. We often stayed in people's homes – fellow Quakers, a hosting organisation, far flung family and friends. Otherwise in the better rooms in cheap hotels. Motels (except some on Route 66) have no character but are great value. Or ashrams. The only problematic visa was that for Russia, though others such as India and China needed some care. I was surprised to find one of the most irksome problems was telephoning – one needs to see if mobiles can be adapted cheaply in each region. Only disappointments: despite three weeks in most places we usually seemed to be in a hurry, and sadly I lost several sets of slides.
Essentials include up-to-date Guides. We used Footprint guides for Latin America because it avoids having lots of volumes; and for India as well as Lonely Planet there and everywhere else. “Road Trip USA” for the side roads. Take both Visa and MasterCard (and Maestro if possible) as many areas take only one or the other. We had all the jabs recommended except expensive encephalitis. We never resolved all the arguments for and against anti-malaria tablets, and if so which ones. But insect repellent from day 1, and a hat if you are bald like me. I had to have scalp pre-cancer treatment on return. I was supplied with and shown how to use self-catheterisation by the NHS. Never had to do it but without it I would not have dared go to Tonga, or deep into the Gobi.
Medically we had very few problems, tummy bug twice, and chest complaints in the Andes. I got shingles when in Thailand but was easily able to get powerful drugs (for £50 – a fortune), which knocked it out. But we had quite a few strains from lugging our packs (and from 3 days meditating cross legged in a Buddhist temple!) We both had Karrimor wheeled rucksacks and seldom had to hump them. My advice – just DO IT! Don't worry about food and accommodation and robbery.
Ignore travel mags and ads. They make it scary so you'll use their expensive services. Just GO! Details on the web site (at http://home.clara.net/spetter/sp/, but sadly I don't have time and space to mention our lovely hosts and the travellers and locals we met. To contact Stephen for any hints or tips, please e-mail him on: spetter@clara.net
Currency Conversion
A recent UK survey for the Department for Education found that of over 1,000 adults, 30% felt unable to compare rates in exchange bureaux. A similar proportion said they were not comfortable converting foreign currency into sterling. Over a fifth of those surveyed admitted they had wrongly calculated how much they spent on holiday, with 12% saying they had run out of money.
The Globetrotters Club has just teamed up with Oanda.com to provide people with information about currency conversions and cheat sheets. To translate currency or make a cheat sheet, visit:
The Globetrotters Currency Converter — get the exchange rates for 164 currencies The Globetrotters Currency Cheat Sheet — create and print a currency converter table for your next trip.
Meeting News from New York
Coming up: Saturday 1st March
Seeds of Peace is concerned with sowing the seeds of peace among children who have grown up with the horror of war. They will be back for an encore presentation, following their first visit to the New York branch of the Globetrotters Club on January 4, 2003.
Speaking will be: Jeremy Goldberg and Rebecca Hankin of Seeds of Peace, an organization that provides an opportunity for the children of war to plant the seeds for a more secure future. The program focuses on Arab and Israeli teenagers from ten nations in the Middle East but has also brought youngsters from Cyprus, the war-torn Balkans, India, Pakistan, Afghanistan and other regions of conflict to its unique coexistence program. Seeds of Peace has been featured in The New York Times, USA Today, The Washington Post, Time Magazine, The Christian Science Monitor, The Wall Street Journal, People Magazine and on ABC, CBS & NBC network programs, including “Nightline” (twice) with Ted Koppel, “60 Minutes” with Morley Safer, “Sunday Morning,” “The Today Show,” “Good Morning America” and on CNN, PBS and NPR. Jeremy Goldberg is the Director of Corporate Relations at Seeds of Peace, Mr. Goldberg's experience includes time spent on Capitol Hill, as well as at the Center for Strategic and International Studies (CSIS), a Washington, DC-based think tank. He is also the founder and former editor-in-chief of the Georgetown Journal of International Affairs, a nationally distributed foreign affairs publication. Jeremy is an honors graduate of the School of Foreign Service at Georgetown University. Rebecca Hankin is currently Director of Media Relations at Seeds of Peace, a position she has held since April 2002. Since its founding, Seeds of Peace has graduated over 2,000 teenagers representing 22 nations from its internationally recognized conflict-resolution program.
For details of forthcoming meetings email newyork@globetrotters.co.uk or register for email updates at click here at our website.
New York meetings are held at The Wings Theater, 154 Christopher Street (btw Greenwich St and Washington St), to the right of Crunch Fitness, in the Archive on the first Saturday of each month at 4 pm.
Visiting Costa Del Sol in February- Get Winter Relief by Fred Desrosiers
February is a slow month in the Costa Del Sol. This is why you can get some of the best deals during that month. The temperature goes from 16-10 degrees Celsius. So you can still be in shorts.
I recently just got back from Costa Del Sol. I took advantage of the airline price war that is going on right now. Arriving at the airport I noticed that the traffic was not as heavy as it was during the summer but still a fair number of the people getting off those planes were from the UK, Ireland, Norway, Sweden, Denmark and Germany. First things I noticed was that I needed sunglasses and needed to take off my heavy winter jacket. I just arrived from a Northern European country where that morning it was -6 Celsius. It was also icy and snowing conditions.
I was smiling as I thought of my colleagues back home at work. I was thinking that some of them do deserve their day in the sun. Some of my colleagues had become as cranky as the northern weather in the northern part of Europe and the sun would bring back their smiles. Productivity would greatly improve.
The second thing I noticed is the smile on the Spanish people's face. They seem that they were enjoying themselves. I thought what enjoyment have I had before coming to Spain? In my Northern country I was stuck everyday in traffic, I was driving 20 kilometres an hour on the highway due to snow and icy conditions, I had 3 layers of clothes on because of freezing temperatures. Coming to Spain I was no longer stuck in traffic, there were no icy conditions to peril my well being, and I was taking off my 3 layers of clothes in February!!! Therefore, I too had a smile on my face.
Once in Costa Del Sol, you will be tempted to stop on the highway to view the ocean. My suggestion is to drive west towards Marbella. Take the coastal highway N-340 so that you can get the ocean view throughout your journey. Stop somewhere where you can view the great ocean- like the top of the Sitio de Calahonda. Calahonda is 36 Kilometres west of Malaga and on the N-340. Once at the top there are bars and restaurants where you can sit outside and see the breathtaking views. You will soon forget your problems at work, your icy conditions, and your 3 layers of clothes that you left back home.
About the Author: Fred Desrosiers lives in the coldness of the Swiss Alps. He has been to the Costa Del Sol several times. He loves it so much that he returns time and time again. He can help you if you’d like to visit the Costa del Sol. View his website at Fred's Homepage
Mutual Aid
Maggie wrote in to say: “I enjoy reading all the stories of travelling around the world. I am planning on walking the pilgrim route to Santiago De Compostela starting in France at the end of May 2004. Has anybody done this journey? Any advice would be more than appreciated”.
If you can have walked all or part of the pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela and can help Maggie, please e-mail her on: mechthild@InfoAve.Net
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Gary wrote in to say: “I'm going to be touring England and Scotland on a recumbent bike later part of May and June '03. I'm going to stay in B&Bs' and youth hostels. I'll be flying into Heathrow Airport. What's the best way for me to get to Colchester from London airport? 1) Bike from airport and figure out a way to stash my bike box. Or….
2) Catch a train from the airport and unbox my bike in a B&B in Colchester and hopefully store my bike box their for my return trip. My plan is to bike up through the Shetland Islands and then return back to my bike box in late June. If there is anyone who would like to visit with me or ride part of the way, drop me an email on: garyleffler@hotmail.com
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Need help? Want a travelling buddy or advice about a place or country – want to share something with us – why not visit our Mutual Aid section of the Website: Mutual Aid
London Markets: Brick Lane in the East End
As its name suggests, Brick Lane gets its name from the local manufacture of bricks. By the early 18th Century it was a long well-paved street frequented by carts fetching bricks into Whitechapel from brick kilns. The other industry in the area was beer, which was brewed in the Truman Black Eagle Brewery, founded in 1669. The brewery building still remains today, now converted to designers/artists' studios, workshops and bars. Brick Lane Market developed in the 18th century when farmers sold livestock and produce outside the City boundary.
Today, Brick Lane is now the centre of London's Bangladeshi community and best known for a whole line of fantastic Bengali restaurants. Of interest is the London Jamme Masjid, a mosque on the corner of Fournier Street and Brick Lane. It was built in 1744 as a Huguenot church, purchased by Wesleyans, sold to a Jewish immigrant society in 1897, after which it became a synagogue.
The market is open on Sundays only, from early morning until about 14.00 – allow plenty of time to see it all as the market stretches into Cheshire Street and Sclater Street. Expect to find anything from furniture to fruits, kitchenware to kitsch and odd boots to bangles.
To get there, take the District (green) line to Aldgate East, turn left out of the station and left again into Brick Lane. Or alternatively, it is less than a 10 minute walk from Liverpool Street tube or train station.
Be Careful Out There: Zanzibar
LONDON (Reuters) – The government says an “international terrorist group” might be planning to carry out an attack on the Tanzanian island of Zanzibar, and warns visitors to be careful.
“We have received information that an international terrorist group may be planning an attack on the island of Zanzibar,” a Foreign Office spokeswoman told Reuters.
“British nationals in Tanzania and especially in Zanzibar should be particularly vigilant in public places frequented by foreigners such as hotels, restaurants, shopping malls, markets, bars and nightclubs.”
She did not specify what the threat was or what organisation was believed to be involved, and said Britain was not advising its nationals to leave Tanzania.
The warning follows a similar message from the United States last week warning its citizens to be on alert in public places on the predominantly Muslim island that is popular with tourists.
In December, Australia also advised its nationals to exercise “extreme caution” in Tanzania, especially in Zanzibar.
The alert comes less than two months after suicide bombers killed 12 people in a blast at an Israeli-owned hotel in neighbouring Kenya.
Minutes before that blast, two missiles were fired at an Israeli airliner carrying 261 passengers as it took off from Kenya's Mombassa airport.
“We believe that Tanzania, including the Zanzibar and Pemba islands, is one of a number of countries in East Africa and the Horn of Africa where there may be an increased terrorist threat,” the Foreign Office spokeswoman said.
British authorities have been criticised in the past from some quarters for not going public quickly enough on possible terror threats their intelligence services hear about. But Prime Minister Tony Blair's government says it is a hard balance between keeping the public informed but not provoking panic given the flood of information on international terror activities received in London on a near-daily basis.
Source: yahoo.co.uk forwarded by Kevin Brackley, the Globetrotter Membership Secretary
Madeira by Olwen Cox
Madeira, Garden of the Atlantic: this is an island of incredible natural beauty. Everywhere you go roads and paths are lined with plants: bird of paradise, agapanthus, orchid, and hyacinths. The mountainous interior rises steeply from the coast, broken up by ravines and gorges with the sides covered in trees or terraces for agriculture.
There is a reason for this epithet, this verdancy; parts of the island get up to 2m of rain a year. So now you know the downside. For those scared of dissolving, the south side is drier especially through the summer months. However, what an island! I am no longer allowed to say awesome! So the scenery is amazing, the plants are amazing and the levadas (water channels) are truly amazing – human achievement at its best. Who needs to land on the moon? Some of the levadas cling to cliff faces, pass through tunnels (don’t forget torches), some twine through eucalyptus or tree heather or the Madeiran laurel forest, most have a fascination of ferns and mosses and agapanthus along the walls, sides and edges.
Our main reason for visiting Madeira was walking generally, but more specifically, walking the levadas. A system of watercourses channelling water for hydroelectricity and for agriculture, not an idea original to Madeira, but it is the accessibility of these levadas makes for some Awesome walking. Through some of the most amazing scenery while often in the shade and with the coolness of water flowing alongside. And they are flat(ish) but not for those who have a problem with heights or even a slight issue with heights. At some points paths may only be a foot to 18” wide and barriers, when present, are a single strand of flimsy fence wire. The other side of the path can be a drop of several hundred feet; this can be especially interesting when the path is rough and patchy or worn. However some levadas had a wide track adjacent, enabling two or more to walk abreast. The real disadvantage is that most of the levadas go somewhere, this means that without planning the walks can be “there and back” rather than circular, and those walks which are circular often involve a steep scramble up or down to levadas on different levels.
As a change from levadas walking, the interior of the island can be roughly divided into two sections, to the west is the Paul da Serra, the flattest section of the island at 1400m! This upland plain is reminiscent of Scotland and gives a wonderful sense of solitude and space. Eastwards are the jagged peaks of Pico Ruivo (the highest mountain on the island). The café at Pico do Arieiro (1800m and a good starting place for walking Pico Ruivo) served the best cup of tea of the holiday.
Although there are no beaches on the island, there are some rather fine lidos. Those at Porto Moniz at the north west of the island utilise some of the natural rock formations and are especially fine.
Other tourist attractions include the famed toboggan ride from Monte down to Funchal, the capital. There are also the botanical gardens in Funchal and the cable car ride from Monte to Funchal is recommended. Camacha village is famous for it willow work. Other souvenirs include the famous Madeira cake (nothing like the British sort!), Madeira wine, textiles and ceramics. The embroidery work is fantastic, but also available are woollens and throws. It is also possible to buy flowers (including the bird of paradise) to ship home in hand luggage.
We did a fly drive with Style holidays, with 3 pre-booked hotels (the Eira do Serrado in Nuns valley was wonderful, a hotel with vertigo!). Driving on the wrong side of the road was interesting enough without the hairpins and drops to the side. (It isn’t just the levadas, which cling to the side of hills!). We visited in December (the quiet season) and had one gorgeous day; one awful day and the rest were merely overcast with showers or sunny spells.
We used the Sunflower Landscapes book as a guide (www.sunflowerbooks.co.uk) and found it excellent (they also suggest driving tours). The “Danger of Vertigo” points were spot on. The directions, timings and parking were also good. We did walks 23 (totally awesome, but I did discover a fear of heights), one of the alternatives on walk 25, 29, 37 (brilliant and interesting), 36, and 39. Although these were mainly levada walks, all the levadas were different and provided a wonderful variety of scenery. We did meet a couple that said walk 12 should be dropped.
It was a great holiday and the final recommendation; Yes! I would definitely go back.
What have you seen on your travels? Drop a line to the Beetle! Beetle@globetrotters.co.uk
Free London Museums:
Gunnersbury Park Museum Dating from 1835, the former country residence of the Rothschild family is now a local history museum with exhibitions charting local history from prehistoric times to the present.
The grounds are lovely to walk in, with Japanese and Italian gardens cultivated by the family in the nineteenth century, as well as the large open space of Gunnersbury Park.
- Address: Popes Lane, W3
- Telephone: 020 8992 1612
- Admission times: Oct-Apr, Mon-Sun 1-4pm; Apr-Oct, Mon-Sun 1-6pm
- Costs: Free
- Disabled facilities: Wheelchair access
Write for the Globetrotters monthly e-newsletter
If you enjoy writing, enjoy travelling, then why not write for the free monthly Globetrotters e-newsletter! The Beetle would love to hear from you: your travel stories, anecdotes, jokes, questions, hints and tips, or about your home town or somewhere of special interest to you.
You don't have to be a professional writer for other people to enjoy reading your travel stories. The essence of the Globetrotters Club and its e-newsletter is to provide a forum to share travel experiences and to offer help and advice to others. It’s a great feeling, knowing that around 7,500 subscribers read each e-newsletter, a rate that is increasing by about 3% month on month.
Please e-mail the Beetle with your travel experiences up to 750 words, or any other hints and tips or questions plus a couple of sentences about yourself and a contact e-mail address. Past contributors often contact the Beetle to say what fun it has been to correspond with others who have e-mailed as a result of their article appearing in the Globetrotters e-newsletter send in those articles!! Beetle@globetrotters.co.uk
Armed Guards to Accompany Flights
The UK government has just given the go-ahead for specially trained under cover armed police officers to be placed onboard civil aircraft. This is a part of a range of security measures to prevent attacks by international terrorists.
In addition to the UK move, undercover armed guards are to be allowed on flights between Australia and Singapore after the two countries reached an agreement ahead of a conference on terrorist activities.
Australia is seeking similar agreements with both the United States and Indonesia.
Domestic flights in Australia have carried air marshals for several months in response to the terrorist attacks of September 11 in the US.
Three faces of Venice by Jonathan Hollow
Venice inspires devotion and madness. I should know: I went there for a last-minute holiday four years ago and have ended up buying two properties. What is it about this city? I think there are three faces to Venice, and you can’t always be sure which one you’re seeing.
We all know the first face of Venice, the tourist Venice. The images of the Grand Canal, the gondoliers, the Carnival, are clichés that stare at you from paintings and photographs in a million locations. Not just in travel articles and television shows: a restaurant, an art gallery, an engraving on a pub wall – there the Grand Canal, here the Rialto Bridge. Of course I took these image in my head when I first went to Venice. I was not disappointed; they’re not a confection, but real, gloriously, deliriously beautiful views that crowd the city. Add to them the countless art galleries that depend on the visits of tourists and academics, and you have the tourist paradise, a Disneyland digest of European art history – which, as everyone tells you, is a ghost town and an echo of its former glory.
Except that they’re wrong. Yes, the permanent population of Venice may have declined to just a few tens of thousands. But it’s no ghost town: you cannot fail to notice the vibrant daily life of Venetians as they go about their daily business in the city. This is the face of the real, everyday Venice. Venetians haul heavy kegs of beer over bridges. They walk their dogs along the hard pavements of the fondamenta. They chug along canals carrying loads of bricks, mortar, cement, furniture and flowers. And above all they chatter to each other, on the bridges. In this city without cars, there is every chance of bumping into someone you know when you cross a bridge. So why not stay for a chat? In this second Venice, there is a far more obvious sense of community than in any other world city I have known. And being an island, Venice seems to breed a sense of huddle and bemused detachment, among its true-born inhabitants, as they contemplate the follies of the rest of the world. Their geography and way of life is unique. What is the rest of the world up to?
Against the real, everyday Venice I would suggest there is also a third Venice. I can call it the unreal city. It is the historical echo of the kegs of beer, barges, flood plates and all the outward signs of Venice’s contemporary uniqueness. You could call it tradition, but that suggests something dead. There is nothing dead about the cafes and bars where Venice’s peculiar seafood snacks are the everyday accompaniment to an “ombra”, the tradition of an evening glass of wine that goes back hundreds of years. Or the Burano regatta, where a tiny island with a population of just hundreds manages to put forward tens of people willing to practise for months to take place in a traditional rowing race. My favourite is the fish market: hardly known by tourists, this extraordinary riot, slippery mountains of silver and squid, takes place in the heart of the city, just as it has done for hundreds of years, and the housewives flock to it like the seagulls. Unlike many other cities, Venice has ways of life that are not traditions on life support, but which reach back and show the influences of hundreds of years of history in a unique, watery environment.
And then there are the buildings, which hover between the three Venices. The first time I went to the city, I assumed that if you were to pan the camera just a few degrees to the left from the tourist cliché shot, you’d find the necklace of ugly concrete that has blighted every other beautiful city from Cambridge to Bruges. Not so. Venice is composed of almost nothing but tall, elegant palazzos, strange seaside workmen’s cottages, and nineteenth-century apartment blocks. I have joked that the tourist books should create a walking tour that takes you round the five or six ugly buildings in the city, since they are its special rarity, much more remarkable than any palazzo.
These buildings clearly do much to present the tourist face of Venice. They house the art, they form the backdrop, and many of them are hotels. They are also the everyday real Venice, as the Venetians live in them, busily hammering away, painting, improving … and propping the more rickety ones up. And, especially at night, as their solitary shining lights are reflected in the misty or moonlit canals, the tall, narrow renaissance buildings are definitely the soul of this unreal city, whose past lives cheek by jowl with the present.
If you’re going to Venice, here are my recommendations for places to see the three faces of the city:
Tourist Venice: shy clear of St Mark’s (except on a summer’s evening, when the string quartets are playing), and instead of climbing its Campanile, climb that of San Giorgio Maggiore, looking out across the most famous view in the world from the opposite side of the St Marks basin. If you think a gondola ride sounds a bit too tacky and costly, take a traghetto, working gondolas that take you across the Grand Canal at points distant from bridges, all for the princely sum of 40 cents.
Real, everyday Venice: if you really want to see the nitty-gritty of how everything moves around the city, stand on the Guglie bridge between 08.30 and 09.30 on any weekday morning. You’ll see the commuters striding in, the huddled groups gossiping on the fondamenta di Cannaregio, and the barges will chug busily beneath you carrying everything the city needs to eat, drink and be merry.
For the unreal Venice, with history poking through the veil: the fish market runs from Tuesday to Saturday mornings at the Rialto, just inside San Polo. It’s likely to be winding down at 12 noon, at its peak between 9 and 10.30. Take an ombra (glass of wine) at the Cantine del Vino Shiavi at 992 Fondamenta Priuli, Dorsoduro, where the glorious, slow-moving days of la Serenissima (the Most Serene City) are still visible in this atmospheric cavern of fine wines and wonderful appetizers. The Burano regatta takes place on the third Sunday of every September and is a much more low-key affair than the Regatta Storica of the main city. Watch the young Buranese teenagers fooling around in their motorboats to impress the girls … For moonlit walks, try the calmness of Fondamenta della Sensa in Cannaregio, as you make your way to the lesser-known church of Madonna dell’Orto.
Jonathan’s two homes in Venice are available for holiday rental: see www.visitvenice.co.uk
Globetrotters Travel Award
Under 30? A member of Globetrotters Club? Interested in a £1,000 travel award?
Know someone who is? We have £1,000 to award each year for five years for the best submitted independent travel plan. Interested?
Then see our legacy page on our Website, where you can apply with your plans for a totally independent travel trip and we'll take a look at it. Get those plans in!!
Opportunity to be Creative in Lahore, Pakistan
NM-ftv invites applications from interested individuals or professionals with experience of creative writing, multimedia, film making, direction, sound, camera, set design, story telling journalism, anthropology or any other art form who are interested in living and working in Pakistan for a short period: from 2 weeks to six months.
We invite any filmmaker, multimedia designer/artist, script writer, anthropologist, musician, poet, cameraman, sound expert etc to travel to Pakistan with a specific idea in his/her mind to produce a film /multimedia project on culture, environment and social development. NM-ftv will provide the basic facility of living, and equipment for filming (pre-production and post-production) and machines for multimedia productions.
In return NM-ftv will expect from the guest professional or participant to contribute the same amount of time to NM-ftv students that he spent on filming or other creative project. NM-ftv will also be the partner in that proposed project.
This is a good opportunity to experience a different culture and to explore the mystery land of Pakistan where we have variety of weathers, large deserts to highest peaks of the world like K-2. (Pakistan has 42 highest peaks of the world out of 50 in Himalaya and Karakoram mountain ranges.)
Please see www.nmftv.edu.pk for the film school details. NM-ftv is the first film school based at Lahore-Pakistan and it is a project of Gandhara Foundation Pakistan (a non-governmental organisation, visit www.gandhara.org)
Fave Websites of the Month
The Beetle likes the Aussie slang website spotted by our eagle eyed webmaster.
Having just come back from Australia, she noticed a propensity to end as many words as possible with “ie” as in, being asked by an air hostess, would you like “brekkie” i.e. breakfast. A barbecue is a barbie, football, footie and so on.
The website also provides the translations to mysterious words like “onya” and the use of G’day and ‘oroo. Incidentally, back to the site’s home page, there’s also an English to American dictionary (and vice versa) British, Canadian and American words.
If you have a travellers tale that your aching to tell. Then why not visit the “Travel Sized Bites” section of the Website and share it with the world. Travel Sized Bites