Category Archives: archive

Air News:

LAPA, the Argentinean domestic airline went belly up a while back but the name LAPA is to be revived by new owners who rescued it from receivership. It has been operating as AIRG since the Aeroandina group raised capital in both Argentina and Bolivia to put it back in business. Plans are afoot to start regional services to Sao Paulo, Brazil, the Chilean cities of Santiago and Puerto Montt and to Santa Cruz de la Sierra, Bolivia, by the end of this year.

Due to the dreadful and unpredictable event in Bali, the new Bali based airline Air Paradise, which was due to start flying in October 2002, said it was delaying its launch indefinitely and refunding tickets it has already sold. The airline was due to make its first flights to the Australian cities of Perth and Melbourne.

According to union sources, a one-day strike planned by Air France unions for October 24 has been switched to November 5.

Workers are protesting over French government plans to privatise the French flag carrier and reduce the state's controlling stake.

Expanding Australian budget airline Virgin Blue plans to add flights to New Zealand to its schedules and will cause a few ruffled feathers in the Australian flight market, largely operated by Air New Zealand and Qantas. Virgin Blue was launched in August 2000 with a single route between Brisbane and Sydney. It now serves thirteen Australian destinations. Now, Virgin Blue plans a code share arrangement with United Airlines so that it will be faster and easier for booking flights from Brisbane to San Francisco and Los Angeles and beyond.

Meanwhile, back in the US, Boston Logan Airport is to introduce security scanners that can make immediate checks on driving licenses and passports against government databases or “watch lists.” Despite concerns expressed by civil liberties groups, the airport said it will go ahead with the system. Initially, it will only be used to check around 10,000 people who work at Logan. However, the airport's operators, Massachusetts Port Authority, say they would like to see the system extended and in tests carried out during the Summer discovered a number of passengers flying out of the international departures on forged passports.

Passengers due to fly into or out of Stansted (the Beetle's most HATED airport, ever) near London may want to alter their travel plans if this involves early morning or late evening flights.

Due to alleged rail improvements, from Sunday 29th September 2002 through to Spring 2004, all Sunday train services to and from Stansted Airport will be replaced by a slow coach service.

Incidentally, the last coach leaves Stansted at midnight on Sunday for Liverpool St station and 11pm from Liverpool St. First coach to Stansted from Liverpool St is allegedly at 4.30am and 5am from Stansted to Liverpool St. You have been warned, and allow plenty of time – preferably around 2 hours journey time! Tel Aviv's Ben Gurion Airport is closing down international services from Terminal 2 at the end of October week due to reduced numbers of passengers. The decision, by the Israel Airports Authority, is part of a series of cost-cutting measures, according to daily newspaper Haaretz. If international passengers start to increase the Terminal 2 facility may reopen.



Meeting News from New York:

A message from Laurie, the New York Chair: there will NOT be a Globie meeting in November, but we WILL have our December 7th meeting.

We wish Laurie Bonne Voyage as she prepares for her trip to Asia!

New York meetings are held at The Wings Theater, 154 Christopher Street (btw Greenwich St and Washington St), to the right of Crunch Fitness, in the Archive on the first Saturday of each month at 4 pm.


Bali, Indonesia

You would have to be living in a world with no access to the radio, newspapersor tv not to hear about the recent bombing in Bali. News reports say that around 75 percent of those who died (around 200) in the blasts were Australian nationals.

But let's not forget the local people of Bali and other nationals too, who lost their lives in Bali. A further 300 people were injured in the attack. As investigations start into Saturday's nightclub bombings on Bali, Australian airline Qantas is laying on extra flights to bring tourists and injured victims back from the Indonesian island. Singapore Airlines has also been carrying additional passengers.

The United States Federal Bureau of Investigation and Australian police and intelligence services are helping in thesearch for the bombers.

The governments of Australia and the United States are advising against travel to Indonesia and the US State Department has asked all American citizens to leave the country. All US government personnel, apart from those in key positions, are being withdrawn.

The UK has also issued a travel warning, advising the cancellation of non-essential visits to Indonesia.

Despite some expected cancellations, Singapore Airlines says it is continuing to operate four daily flights to the area.

The airlines say they will not impose penalty charges on passengers who change or cancel their flight reservations. Those without tickets wishing to leave Bali are being offered discounted fares.



Mutual Aid

Overland in Africa

New Globetrotter Renate would like to make contact with others who share her interests: overlanding in Africa, archaeology, anthropology, natural history and the environment, conservation, and, others who have travelled in the following countries in North and South Africa: Libya, Algeria, Sudan, Egypt, Tunisia, Sahara desert, Chad, Niger, Mali, Mauritania and, S Africa: North Cape Province, Zambia, Zimbabwe, Kalahari Desert, Botswana, Namibia, Mozambique, Tanzania, Angola. If this is you, please contact Renate on desertfox@freeuk.com

Advice and Travelling Companion(s) wanted

Bengt from Gothenburg, Sweden is looking for a travelling companion(s) for a road trip around June/July/August 2003 to join him in full or in part for a 6-12 month trip overland in the USA, Canada, Alaska and down through Central America to Panama. He/she must speak decent Spanish as whilst Bengt speaks good English, he is not so good with Spanish. They must also be able to drive as he is shipping his own Toyota Landcruiser over to the USA, probably to Jacksonville (Fl). In addition, if any Globetrotter out there can help Bengt with any advice about driving around, where to visit, car documents etc, he would be very grateful. He also asks if anyone knows if it's still exist a boat carrying vehicles between Colon Panama to Cartagena Colombia? If you can help Bengt with travel advice about specific countries or is interested in being a travel companion, please e-mail him or phone Bengt on: +46(0)31403327

UK Winter Break

Simon from the UK asks: I wondered if you could help me. I am looking to get away for a winter break in the UK and want to rent an isolated cottage without neighbours or developments just the cottage and the elements. I have searched extensively for this but can't seem to find it anywhere.. Do you know of such a company that can help me out with this.

Need help? Want a travelling buddy or advice about a place or country – want to share something with us – why not visit our Mutual Aid section of the Website: Mutual Aid



Meeting News from Ontario:

Coming up on November 15, 2002, Robin Christmas, Linda Rosenbaum & Family: “The Ve-Ahavta” (“You Shall Love”) a video of a community development project in Bartica, Guyana.

For information on Ontario meetings, please contact: Svatka Hermanek:

shermanek@schulich.yorku.ca or Bruce Weber: tel. 416-203-0911 or Paul Webb: tel. 416-694-8259.

Meetings are held on the third Friday of January, March, May, September and November. Usually at the Woodsworth Co-op, Penthouse, 133, Wilton Street in downtown Toronto at 8.00 p.m.


Free London Museums: The Photographers' Gallery

There are three galleries offering a change of photographic exhibitions from photographers around the world.

Admission is free and the small gallery can be found at 5&8 Great Newport Street WC2H, tel: 020 7831 1772, website: www.photonet.org.uk From 4th October to 16th November, there is a great exhibition called Brixton Studio which looks at local photographer Harry Jacobs and four other contemporary artists. There's a great bookshop too.

The nearest tube is Leicester Square, so you could combine this with a visit to the great National Portrait Gallery that is close by, followed by a Chinese dinner in China Town, or a film in Leicester Square.



Missing Ship

Extract from The Star (Johannesburg): “The situation is absolutely under control,” Transport Minister Ephraem Magagula told the Swaziland parliament in Mbabane.

“Our nation's merchant navy is perfectly safe. We just don't know where it is, that's all.”

Replying to an MP's question, Minister Magagula admitted that the landlocked country had completely lost track of its only ship, the Swazimar:

“We believe it is in a sea somewhere. At one time, we sent a team of men to look for it, but there was a problem with drink and they failed to find it, and so, technically, yes, we've lost it a bit. But I categorically reject all suggestions of incompetence on the part of this government. The Swazimar is a big ship painted in the sort of nice bright colours you can see at night. Mark my words, it will turn up. The right honourable gentleman opposite is a very naughty man, and he will laugh on the other side of his face when my ship comes in.”



Meeting News from Texas:

This month we will have two guest speakers. Chris Schorre, our own resident photographer, will present a slide show of Spain. Christina and Susan will recount their recent trip to Madrid.

Future meetings will be held on December 14th and January 11th.

Mark your calendars.

A reminder that Texas meetings will start one hour earlier, at 2pm and not 3pm.

Meetings are held at 2pm at the New Braunfels Public Library, 700 E. Common Street in New Braunfels, Texas. The meeting ends at 5 p.m. If you would like to continue travel talk on a more informal basis, we plan to adjourn to the Hoity-Toit, a local New Braunfels establishment. If anybody would like to enquire about meetings or help Christina, please contact her on: texas@globetrotters.co.uk


The European Alpine Federation from Iain Kemble

Some information on one of the best accommodation bargains in Spain if not Europe via Membership of The European Alpine Federation.

British residents can join through the Austrian Alpine Club-UK Section PO Box 43, Welwyn Garden City, Herts, AL8 6PA, Tel 01707-386740. Or e-mail: e-mail: manager@aacuk.uk.com

website: www.aacuk.demon.co.uk/

Membership costs £30 per year and entitles members to stay at the many Spanish mountain huts for between 3.45 – 4.10 Euros per night, less than £2.50. Non-members pay between three and four times these prices.

Facilities are roughly comparable to very simple grade Youth Hostels with shared dormitories and sometimes a hot shower. You can self cater or buy a 4 course meal from the Guardian.

Your membership card also entitles you to massive discounts in the mountain huts of France, Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Italy, Greece and Slovenia plus medical and mountain rescue insurance anywhere in the world.



Have you got a tale to tell??

If you have a travellers tale that your aching to tell. Then why not visit the “Travel Sized Bites” section of the Website and share it with the world. Travel Sized Bites



London Markets: Berwick Street Market

This street was featured on the cover of Oasis' ‘What's the Story? Morning Glory' LP, and is also home to a tiny market in the heart of Soho.

Soho is that rather strange little area in central London occasionally described as London's infamous sex district. This is where you can find (if you are looking!) small rooms high above the street corners dimly lit by a red light bulb with a cardboard sign in the window saying “model” and there are the last of the seedy sex shops and tourist rip-off peep shows. At night time, you can see couples walking arm in arm, on their way to one of Soho's famous watering holes.

In the day time, the area is fascinating and home to many TV, PR and film production companies and has many extremely good restaurants and Berwick Street Market. Tucked away between Oxford Street and Old Compton Street, Berwick Street Market is renowned for its quality fruit and vegetables. Here you will find from Mon-Sat, 9am-5pm clusters of cheap and colourful fruit and veg stalls, as well as lots of off-beat record shops.

Dotted along the market are some stalls with great specialist foods, such as fish, cheese, sausages of all kinds, herbs and spices as well as a fabulous stall selling all manner of nuts and dried fruits for peckish (hungry) shoppers. There are some semi-interesting interesting shops that line the market where you can buy spangly belts, flared trousers and “recreational” pipes.

Address: Berwick St, Soho, W1

Getting there: exit Piccadilly Circus tube station, walk up Shaftesbury Avenue and then turn left into Rupert Street. At the top of Rupert Street, just past the small market area, cross Brewer Street and walk along Walkers Court, past the Raymond Revue Bar and you'll emerge into Berwick Street.

Bus Routes: 7, 8, 10, 25, 55, 73, 76, 98

Nearest Tube / Rail Station: Piccadilly Circus Open: Monday to Saturday 9am to 5pm


New Airport Checks on Middle Eastern Visitors to the US

The Malaysian prime minister condemned the new security checks on Muslim and Arab visitors introduced at US airports in October 2002.

Mahathir Mohamad labelled the new immigration rules as “anti-Muslim” and said America's stance was unfortunate. Passengers arriving in the US from Muslim and Middle East countries are now photographed and fingerprinted by the immigration authorities at all ports of entry.

In particular, nationals of Iran, Iraq, Libya, Syria and Sudan will be heavily scrutinized. Visitors from other countries, including Malaysia, who are thought to be a possible security risk, will also undergo the tougher immigration checks.

The authorities will compare pictures and fingerprints with criminal and terrorist data held by the US government. There could be a personal element here: Mr Mahathir made his attack on the system after his deputy, Ahmad Abdullah Badawi, claimed he was forced to remove his belt and shoes during a security check at Los Angeles International Airport as he arrived for a United Nations meeting.



Jokes sent in by Krys

Flight Log Never let it be said that ground crews and engineers lack a sense of humor. Here are some actual logged maintenance complaints by QANTAS pilots and the corrective action recorded by mechanics.

By the way, Qantas is the only major airline that has never had an accident. P – stands for the problem the pilots entered in the log, and S – stands for the corrective action taken by the mechanics.

  • P: Left inside main tire almost needs replacement.
  • S: Almost replaced left inside main tire.
  • P: Test flight OK, except autoland very rough.
  • S: Autoland not installed on this aircraft.
  • P: Something loose in cockpit.
  • S: Something tightened in cockpit.
  • P: Dead bugs on windshield.
  • S: Live bugs on backorder.
  • P: Autopilot in altitude-hold mode produces a 200-fpm descent.
  • S: Cannot reproduce problem on ground.
  • P: Evidence of leak on right main landing gear.
  • S: Evidence removed.
  • P: DME volume unbelievably loud.
  • S: DME volume set to more believable level.
  • P: Friction locks cause throttle levers to stick.
  • S: That's what they're there for!
  • P: IFF inoperative.
  • S: IFF always inoperative in OFF mode.
  • P: Suspected crack in windscreen.
  • S: Suspect you're right.
  • P: Number 3 engine missing. (note: this was for a piston-engined airplane; the pilot meant the engine was not running smoothly)
  • S: Engine found on right wing after brief search.
  • P: Aircraft handles funny.
  • S: Aircraft warned to straighten up, fly right, and be serious.
  • P: Radar hums.
  • S: Reprogrammed radar with words.
  • P: Mouse n cockpit.
  • S: Cat installed


Views of Highgate by Matthew Doughty

One of the best ways to discover some of the many views of and from this well known corner of north London can be located by heading up Highgate Hill, at the Archway junction of the A1. Since living in the area, I've completed this route many times and found whether I travel by foot, bus, car or wearily push my cycle up the steep incline that l always seem to see something different on my journey. A bonus to this journey is if it can be made at the beginning of an August's summer day…

My first thought is that I am crossing a boundary – in that I am leaving behind the modern and the utilitarian accommodation of transient London and heading off into a very slowly changing but more permanently rooted era. An initial signpost of this change may well be the tall gothic spires and high roofs of the now renamed Archway Campus, which still seems rooted in its original purpose of providing medical care. Or take the caged Whittington Stone, complete with perched cat on the pavement just before the modern Whittington Hospital, as a signpost. The statue itself is but a small 1935 tribute to commemorate the mayoral achievements of one Richard Whittington, but it talks of a shared history for London.

At the junction with Dartmouth Road, it could be said that apart from the volume and nature of road traffic nowadays, much of the surroundings are as they were at the turn of the 20th century, when London swallowed up villages like Highgate during its' suburban expansion. St Joseph's Roman Catholic Church and Retreat proudly stands on its 1888 roots and marks a good point to catch your breath and look back across London down towards the Millennium Dome and the southern cityscape. Cathedral in posture, its copper domes tower above the nearby Old Crown and the now defunct Presbyterian Church on Cromwell Avenue. From neighbours who have a longer association with the area I have heard stories of horses, their carriages and their drivers heading down the hill in unconventional styles, as their wheels and legs attempt to work their way across this busy crossing during snow and ice.

Along from St Joseph's is another landmark from that different era, Lauderdale House, which was renovated in 1893 to become a council operated venue. Nowadays it is a popular location for well attended weddings, craft fairs and views out across Waterlow Park – whilst the coffee could be better its' less busy nature is a welcome contrast. Facing Lauderdale is the imposing Northgate House with is walls struggling to support a large number of windows and the Ghana High Commission with its roof top cupola, arching lines and gated entrance.

The Channing Schools and the art deco Cholmeley Lodge welcome visitors into Highgate village proper and the high street. Local shops and businesses seem to stand their own corner against the undeservedly well located chain restaurants and ubiquitous estate agents !

Highgate becomes one of those weekend destinations that creaks at the seams during the Kenwood season or as people enjoy a summer day. One of my favourite aspects is that the 210 allows me to alight from the bus and almost walk directly through the front door of The Prince of Wales and to a very good pint, whatever the choice ! Other local recommendations include the frustratingly organised Highgate Bookshop, the Village Bistro and the precariously perched stall of Village Flowers.

To extend the search for views turn left into Hampstead Lane and proceed past the always green playing field of Highgate School and its' numerous red brick buildings. Once passed the faded blue sign of the mysterious Highgate Golf Club, you find yourself walking along under broad leaf trees to the entrances of The Iveagh Bequest at Kenwood – however rather than enter through the popular stables entrance, head towards the main gate. I found the simple pleasure of walking down the sweeping drive, towards the front of Kenwood House immensely appealing. This neo-classical house, remodelled during the 1760s to include an archetypal, stately frontage, was home to the 1st Earl of Mansfield…however it his heir, the 2nd Earl, that is to be thanked for commissioning Humphrey Repton's widely enjoyed landscaped garden. This pleasant perimeter of Hampstead Heath makes for a perfect spot from which to explore the 37 odd ponds, Parliament Hill and many superb vistas of the cities of London and Westminster. Depending on the day's clarity, attempt to locate Canary Wharf, the ever majestic St Paul's, the London Eye and the Telecomm Tower at the very least ! And remember that in spite of busy periods, the main Kenwood House makes itself available for excellent afternoon teas…

To prolong your pleasure, avoid the exclusive, brash wealth of the gated Compton, Courtenay and Bishops' avenues and follow Hampstead Lane further round the heath towards the still splendid Spaniards Inn and beyond towards Hampstead itself. For those that wish to return down back down the hill, the 210 can be caught from almost outside the main house and a pleasant journey can be drawn to a close in an unhurried manner !

Matthew is happy to be contacted by email chair@globetrotters.co.uk or at the monthly London meetings.


Effect of Aircraft Vapour

We've all seen those wispy white trails that aircraft leave in the skies. Until now, scientists have been unable to calculate the impact on weather of these vapour trails. That is until post 9/11.

The grounding of flights for three days after the 11 September attacks gave scientists in the US a unique opportunity to see what the weather would be like with no air traffic at all.

They compared temperatures at 4,000 weather stations across the country with figures for the previous three decades at the same time of year. Their findings show that the gap between daytime and night time temperatures was more than one degree Celsius larger than normal when flights were at a standstill.

This is thought to be because the jet trails reflect sunlight and trap heat. That makes the day cooler and the night warmer where air traffic is heavy. However, the effect is almost certainly outweighed by the global warming influence of greenhouse gases, created by the burning of fuel including emissions from jet engines.



Nigerian Scams – the 419 scam

They have got to be the most annoying junk mail that the Beetle receives….ever! You must have received one at least: you know, it's a long e-mail bemoaning the death of a supposed husband, father, uncle etc. who has millions of $ trapped in a bank account. In exchange for a small investment – and you have been chosen for this very exciting opportunity (not!) to receive a commission for helping to release these funds by transferring a few thousand dollars of your own to a named bank account and in return, you receive 30%, or some variation on the theme. But have you ever wondered who these people are, that send out these blatant scams? And why? And do people really respond?

Frank from the US sent the Beetle a piece called The Nigerian Nightmare – Who's sending you all those scam e-mails by BrendanI.Koerner.lnk. In this, the author explains that the e-mailers behind these e-mails are almost always Lagos-based con artists looking for people greedy enough and stupid enough to spend thousands in pursuit of nonexistent fortunes. “They aim to lure you to Nigeria or to a nearby nation where you'll be cajoled into ponying up endless fees to secure the “riches”-$30,000 for a “chemical solvent” to disguise the money or $50,000 for “customs duties”. When you eventually wise up, faux police barge into your hotel and demand massive bribes in exchange for your freedom. Tapped out? Expect to be held for ransom or murdered”.

This is a scam known as a 419, named after the penal code making it illegal. According to the anti-spam software vendor Brightmail, 419 scams are the Web's second-most common form of junk mail, (ranking behind only those “herbal Viagra” ads). Believe it or not, an estimated 1 percent of recipients actually respond. Of that number, enough people fork over enough cash to sustain an industry that ranks in Nigeria's top five, right up there with palm oil and tin. The U.S. Secret Service has estimated-conservatively, by its own admission-that the scammers net $100 million per year.

So, just don't……..



Curacao: the perfect diving spot for family men…and family women, Part 2

Philippe continues his tale of diving and exploring Curacao with his family.

Harry and his wife, Ann-Marie, have done all in their power to help us achieving the best diving around the island. They have lent us all equipment necessary including tanks to do some shore diving around the island and God knows that, around Curacao, there are several luscious beaches (e.g., “Klein Knipbaai”, “Playa Porto Marie” or “Playa Jeremi”) with astounding coral reef diving, down to quite extreme depths (that is, if you want) and very good facilities…for the after-dive relaxation.

The club boats have also taken us to some very good diving places not far from the hotel. One of these places was called the “Mushroom Forest” and, when diving there, we had the feeling of wandering in the middle of a forest of giant mushrooms, except that they were coral formations under which we could often glimpse lobsters and moray eels.

Easy Divers’ philosophy is based on the following principle: once you have established your credentials, you are free to dive the way you want, under your sole responsibility. This philosophy, in addition to the boat taking you to excellent spots, to the skipper giving you a good pre-dive briefing and to the boat picking you up at the end of your dive wherever you are (i.e. you do not have to navigate back to the boat), was what European divers like us needed to do exciting dives.

The club was also offering all expected facilities and more, like nitrox, a locker to store away your equipment to dry, a bar on the beach nearby, showers for after the dive, all books necessary to identify what we had seen (a special mention about Paul Humann’s and Ned Deloach’s “The Reef Set” books which is probably one of the best books ever made to precisely identify what you are going to see or what you have seen: definitely a must have!) and refreshing fruit salads to pick from while discussing your dives with your buddies, lying on deck chairs.

Furthermore, the diving club was conveniently located on the beach of a resort (the Sunset Waters Beach Resort) which was providing very good accommodation, food and all other amenities to make the rest of the trip enjoyable, including a casino, a swimming pool and a mini-golf. There were even some activities organised for the kids like movies, sea kayak trips or water-polo tournaments so they definitely have also been able to make the best out of their stay there.

Apart from Park Cristoffel which is supposed to offer some very good hiking, Curacao also offered a few interesting things to see on the dry over-the-water side of the island:

· Willemstad (the capital) made for an interesting tour with its Dutch inspired houses, its floating rotating bridge, its floating market (as nothing grows on Curacao, except Aloe Vera which has been cultivated there for a very long time, all fruits and vegetables are imported from the nearby Venezuela);

· A South-African Boer has opened an ostrich farm, which gave us the opportunity to discover the life of ostriches and even to taste them in the form of juicy steaks and sausages;

· The Kura Hollanda Museum about the Black Culture and Holocaust was also a highly interesting moment in the trip as it enabled us to understand more about the history of Black people in the Caribbean islands and in the USA, with, among other things, an outstanding highlight on the slave trade;

· Last, Curacao Seaquarium displayed some very interesting tanks and creatures, taking advantage of the sea close vicinity to display, among other things, nurse and lemon sharks, tarpons, groupers and rays in almost natural environment with a possibility for divers to interact.

All in all, a very pleasant trip to “one of the best kept secrets of the Caribbean islands” which I would definitely recommend to divers travelling with their families.

If you would like to contact Philippe about diving or info on Curacao, his e-mail is: philippe.sigal@bnpparibas.com


Welsh Language

The other day, a group of London based Globetrotters started talking about slang and direct translations from one language into another. This lead to Olwen, a Welsh language student, telling one of us of a Welsh colloquialism that made us laugh.

In Welsh, the word Microwave becomes a microdion, and an oven in Welsh slang is “Popty.” So guess what’s a microwave?

It’s a “Popty Ping”



Moscow is not a city but a whole world by Katia in Moscow

When I was a little girl and the trees seemed too big for me I was first taken to Red Square by my farther. It is a wonderful feeling to realize how beautiful and different could be the Country you live in. Being about five years old I was lucky to have captured this sensation and later on it only became deeper.

I remember looking at the glowing Kremlin stars and feeling that I was in the center of the whole world, of the universe. I am a student of Moscow University now and I still have this feeling. When twilight comes the Kremlin stars are the first to be seen, and only then Mars, Venus and the North Star.

I have always adored Red Square (Red in Old Russian meant beautiful). Being the symbol of the Country, a famous sight it is at the same time the place that helps you to remember where are your roots and that you belong here. It is amazing how one place could embody so many ancient monuments and edifices from different epochs: from the 16th up to the 20th centuries.

Faces of Moscow are many and various and your vision of the city depends on the way you look at it.

To the left of Red Square leads off Varvarka Street. If you happen round in it, the close company of the golden domes of ancient Churches, the Old English Court, the Chambers of Romanov boyars of handsome originality will let you feel a merchant of the epoch of Ivan the Terrible, dressed in long red caftan and wearing boots of coloured leather with silver lining at the heels.

And if you shall go a way down you are sure to be enshrouded into a special patriarchal atmosphere, which the stones of this district – Zamoskvorechye (Beyond the River district) – still breathe. In the 16th century this territory was used to grow fruit and vegetables for the Tsar’s table and for a long time it was settled only by poor peasants and craftsmen. This area commands a beautiful view of the Kremlin. The Kremlin… here I recall one story.

Some time ago I worked with Italian tourists and we were exploring the center of the city. After we had seen the Kremlin, which took about a couple of hours, one of them asked me: “Look, we’ve been here nearly all day long, we’ve seen so many churches and gardens and I am dying to see one more famous place. Could you tell me where is on Earth that very Kremlin, please? Where is that building? ”. I could not help laughing. He was asking me to show exactly what he has just seen. I told him so. Kremlin is not just one building, but a huge complex of fortification walls, towers, churches and gardens.

The highest point of the city – Vorobievy Hills (Sparrow Hills) is the sight for the main building of Moscow State University founded in the times of Tsarina Elizaveta. The observation platform situated on the same place commands a splendid view of entire Moscow. On a good day the city is laid out before you like an opened book: the Olympic dome, the home to the Olympic Games 1980s is the first thing that strikes the eye. The seven famous skyscrapers seen from afar give an original look to the city silhouette and emphasise its radial-circular layout.

Your ideas of turning into an aristocrat for a while are likely to take shape in Prechistenka Street. It preserves all of the stages in the city’s history. There are white stone chambers, noblemen’s mansions and luxurious houses for rent created with outstanding taste. So never mind you might notice this dignity look on the faces of your companions – they must have come under the street’s spell.

On a fine summer day through the opened windows there might even seep out the sounds of the grand piano and young ladies’ great babble of conversation about preparing for the ball.

Every street has its own story to tell you. You just have to listen to it and keep your mind open on things. Each of us can find something of interest here.

From my mind a peculiar feature of Moscow is that this city maintaining eminent architectural ensembles of the bygone days manages to mix it with pure European signs of human achievements – prestigious hotels and fashionable restaurants, luxurious clubs and extravagant boutiques, which only adds a special flavour to it.

The title of this text holds certainly true of Moscow. The city is so huge that you may live in it your whole life and still not know it, still learn something new about it every day. But this is the stuff of life – to learn and let yourself be dazzled by the new, isn’t it?

Katia says: “I am studying foreign languages at Moscow University and I'm enjoying it very much as my profession is connected with people – that's why I've been an interpreter, tourist guide. And I love communicating with people from different countries, helping them to learn more about Russia, its history and culture”.

For more information, or to contact Katia, please e-mail her on: engmaria@mtu-net.ru


Mutual Aid

Ben, from the US asks: does anyone have a good idea for a small, inexpensive hotel, apartment anywhere on the Riviera where I can stay for a few weeks in February 2003? I will be on the Costa del Sol during January and take the train to France. My plan is to fly to Paris early in January and return to USA sometime late in February. In between I will travel by train. To contact Ben, e-mail him on: BenDukes@msn.com

John from Wales says he is planning his first trip to south west China. Can anyone tell him the best time to travel is in the Spring? Has anyone any experience they can share with John? If so, please e-mail John on jjd2428@hotmail.com

Marie from France asks if anyone can help her find a website concerning accommodation in monasteries. If anyone can recommend any websites or other info and contacts, please contact Marie on: mariegus@club-internet.fr

(Marie, the Beetle says as one suggestion, you search on Paradores in Spain as these hotels are often based in coverted old forts, castles, convents and monasteries.)

Need help? Want a travelling buddy or advice about a place or country – want to share something with us – why not visit our Mutual Aid section of the Website: Mutual Aid