Tag Archives: September 2003

Iris’s Diary of an Overland Trip through South America: Rio!

And so we left Buenos Aires and now here I am in Brazil! We crossed the border last night after visiting the Iguaçu waterfalls on the Argentinean side, which was an incredible experience, including a train journey and a “quiet” boat trip on a rigid inflatable where we had to sit on the sides of the boat rather than on seats. Then we had a walk around the falls themselves, viewing them from all angles – and what an incredible sight they are! We took another boat trip under the falls in a high powered boat which appeared to turn on a sixpence and gave us plenty of opportunities, if we wished, to take photographs of the falls from below.

I didn’t take advantage, as there was so much water spraying about, the camera would have been swamped – and we were swamped because part of the fun of this trip was to go right under the waterfalls themselves, where the water churns up into huge waves which invariably ended up in our laps and all over us! Everyone wore either rainproofs, which weren’t terribly effective because the water found its way into everybody’s ponchos and macs, or the braver ones just wore shorts and a t-shirt and just enjoyed the soaking! I would have liked to go over them in a helicopter but decided it really was too expensive and in the end, as we had such incredible views from the ground, decided that was enough.

We crossed over into Brazil from Argentina and visited the falls here, which affords a greater panoramic view than on the Argentinean side. Talking of water, we have at last reached the rainy season and it has poured more frequently while we’ve been around the falls than at any time on our trip so far. Trouble is, our campsite has no proper roads, just mud tracks and when I tell you that the earth is bright red, you can imagine that my shoes, my trouser bottoms and most of my clothes that I am wearing at the moment seem to have red stains everywhere. So it’s a question of running around, trying to avoid all the red muddy puddles, all the deep red mud, and live as normally as possible!

We took a bus to the falls within the national park, and our truck just parked up outside and our leaders prepared lunch for us while we were away as we would only be there a couple of hours, as it is just a walk along a designated path to see the falls. It was, as I have said a spectacular sight. One hears the falls before seeing them and when one bursts upon them, one's thoughts turn to the first Europeans to discover them (and don't ask me their names now) and how they must have felt to see such a sight. We were taken to a bridge right under the falls and were all sprayed by the water and it cascaded down, but that was only one tiny part of the falls. They just go on and on and on, and each turning of the path brings a different perspective into view. It is totally impossible, I would say, to photograph them in their entirety whether you are in the air or on the ground. No photograph, however professionally done, can really do full justice to them. At the tourist shop, I got a book about them and it contained a CD with 60 photos on it, so hopefully I may be able to get a better perspective when I am able to view it.

Well, we then got on the road heading for what we expected to be our next camp site but somehow or other, the roads got rerouted and we ended up lost! However, Brazil has these fabulous restaurants called Churascias, which means really, barbecued steak, and they charge you for your food according to how much it weighs. We stopped off at this roadside restaurant at about 2100 as we were all starving, and as we entered, they gave us a credit card and it turned out that whatever we bought in their restaurant or shop went on to this credit card and then in order to get out, we had to present the card and pay our total bill. A fantastic idea, as the restaurant is a buffet type meal and one can choose whatever one wants, as much or as little, etc, and it doesn't matter whether you love meat or are a vegetarian because everyone is catered for.

After leaving there we moved on, trying to find the right road to our campsite but in the end our redoubtable leaders had to give up and we arrived at this dicey looking transport cafe, which really wasn't too bad, except the petrol station alongside was either being completely revamped or reconstructed and it was a building site. However, they let rooms and so that's where we stayed for the night, not without a little trepidation to start off with. As soon as we had climbed the stone steps to the upper floor, everything was transformed – clean tiles everywhere, a room with a fan whirling around creating lots of cool air, clean beds and a shower room with hot water, towels and toilet paper! Luxury. We had a thoroughly good night's sleep and Judith and I were able at last to wash all the red mud off our shoes although they didn't dry out for a day or two. We both had flip flops to wear and I had my black shoes I bought for £9 which have proved one of the most comfortable pair of shoes I have ever bought and which don't even stain one's feet black no matter how much they perspire!

Anyway, we arrived at the next camp site in Paraty rather late the next night, as we had decided to miss out the one night stand on the way and press on to the place where we would be staying for a few days. Paraty is a seaside resort, with a lot of history but don't ask me what it is! It has an old town, with cobbled streets, and of course it was carnival fever there already. We stayed in a nice campsite which had soap dishes and nice showers and toilets which were kept a lot cleaner than the other place in Foz and also did not have any red mud. But it was a bit of a one horse dope and also made me realise how much more expensive Brazil was going to be for just about everything than the rest of South America. Laundry was costing four times as much as elsewhere – you would laugh and say I was still paying pennies, but it is in comparison to the rest of the continent that I judge it.

The highlight of our stay there was a boat trip, or I should say a schooner trip around the islands. It stopped off every now and then to let down anchor as the boat couldn't get too close to shore, and people who could swim just jumped off and had fun. We non-swimmers were rather restricted until one our leaders ask the captain to let the dinghy down and go ashore, so I got Paddington out, slung him round my neck and together we progressed to shore where we had our pix taken several times. So who's Paddington I hear a lot of you ask? Well, Paddington Bear, of course, from Peru, who has been my trusty friend this many a week, blown up and placed round neck when necessary, although at the falls he could not be utilised because only the proper life jackets were allowed. Anyway, Paddington and I are now on record, braving the waves to go ashore and return to boat.

After Paraty, where we stayed three nights, we were off to Rio and arrived in time for carnival. Now, my companion, Judith said she could forgive our truck company, Exodus everything for the marvellous package we had in Rio. The Imperial Hotel turned out to be very imperial and provided us, albeit three to a room or more to keep the cost down, with a swimming pool, which suited me down to the ground because at the deep end it only came up to just over my shoulders, and at the shallow end was just under my armpits. So I was able to go there, open air, with a palm tree, together with growing coconuts, and a few pot plants, in the early morning, do my exercises (with Judith doing hers too) and then we would take a dip in the pool, Judith to swim and me to just paddle around. And then down to breakfast with a buffet meal which provided us with all sorts of dishes, bread, cake, fruit, juice, coffee, etc. The laugh was, I ask wherever I go for hot water and lemon and everywhere I go I get it, with the lemon suitably sliced. However, this is where the Imperial Hotel let me down because they could not understand my request and brought hot water and a whole lemon and left it on the table. I went and asked the waiter to cut it, and he took it from me, took an ordinary breakfast knife from the bar, sliced it through once and handed it back to me! It took until the last day of my stay to educate them as to how that lemon should be served up!

As for the rest of Rio, we went to see the Christ Redeemer statue, and that was quite an experience which we both loved. It was very busy there with huge crowds and we had to wait over an hour to get on the train, but one buys the ticket in advance, a time-stamped ticket, so we are assured a place on the train and so can go away and come back. We stayed in the immediate environs and sat in the shade and had a cool drink, etc. But it was worth the wait as the vantage point of the statue gives the most marvellous panoramic view of the whole city and gives a large scale photograph of each section one can see, highlighting the various buildings of interest, so that from the north, south, east and west, we can see not only the focal points but identify landmarks etc. The statue itself is a little disappointing because if it had been New York, we would have been able to go up inside it, come out at the top and see even better views, but Christ is not hollow!

That night, which was Saturday, we went to see a carnival procession in Rio. It is not the proper procession, which we saw at the sambadrome on the Sunday night, but it had a special place in my heart as it was the little people, putting on their own little displays, the ones who will never get to the sambadrome but are given their moment of glory anyway. And it was fantastic with floats and marching and dancing people, with their bands and we could get right up close to them and in some cases join in if we wished. The part where we were was great because there was no hard liquor being sold, just soft drinks and the odd beer. Judith and I had had nothing to eat and all the restaurants apart from the fast food places like McDonald's all street stalls were closed, and so in the end we finished up having, would you believe, two salads, chips and chicken nuggets in McDonald’s. Judith is a vegetarian and just had the salad and chips with orange juice but she was well satisfied and said it was one of the best salads and orange juices she had ever tasted. Before we left McDonald’s I went out to the street and bought us a couple of wigs, a green one for Judith and a blue one for me, made from tinsel, and we then donned these and went back out on the streets to enjoy ourselves.

One particular lady in the parade caught out eye and we wished we had taken out cameras to catch her – a black lady completely naked except for a G string and a spray of gold paint. She looked fabulous and had a figure any girl would die for. She was obviously enjoying herself and giving everyone else a lot of enjoyment.

We said goodbye to the parade quite early as we wanted to be fresh the next day to go to the Sugar loaf mountain and to prepare for our long night at the sambadrome. Sugar loaf was not as exciting as the Christ statue vantage point, but it provided a different perspective and we went up in cable cars, whereas there is a train which goes up the side of the mountain to the Christ. But Christ has far more to offer and we only spent an hour up Sugar loaf, whereas we spent a couple of hours at the Christ and saw far more and were entertained by a carnival band who were being filmed for TV.

I loved the Rio Branco parade the night before because I felt I could participate in it, whereas we were stuck up a terrace and behind big barriers at the Sambadrome and although we were at the end of the parade avenue, where all the parades came to an end, and the participants mingled to some extent with the audience, it was not the same as being on the streets. Having said that, I enjoyed it all, and glanced up at the lit up Christ statue and then back down at the arena and what was going on there and I too thought: “Goodness, it's carnival in Rio and I am here!”

We finally left at 0330 before the end of the parade and walked some distance to get a taxi as the taxis right outside, when you could get to them through the pressing crown, were charging exorbitant fares. We slept late the next day but then were up again to do whatever we wanted by 0830. No exercises, though, we were too tired and it was too hot!

We finally left Rio on the Wednesday. We had not been able to see a lot because the shops and a lot of the sights were closed, but we saw enough to satisfy us and were well pleased with our stay in Rio at such an exciting time.

If you’d like to contact Iris, whether to wish her luck with her trip or to ask questions about her itinerary and places visited, I am sure she would like to hear from you. She can be contacted on: irisej2002@yahoo.co.uk


No Mining Please!

UNESCO has hailed as “a major step forward” the pledge made by the International Council on Mining and Metals (ICMM) – comprising 15 of the world’s largest mining and metal producing companies – not to explore or mine in World Heritage sites. The sites include Kakadu National Park (Australia), Kakadu National Park (Indonesia), Huascaràn National Park (Peru), Huascaràn National Park (Spain), and the Greater St. Lucia Wetlands Park (South Africa).


MEETING NEWS

Meeting news from our branches around the world.


Traveller’s Diseases: Giardiasis

What is it: Giardiasis is a diarrhoea illness caused by a microscopic parasite (Giardia intestinalis) that lives in the intestines of people and animals. It can occur anywhere in the world, although it is most frequent where water is not clean.

How do I get it: transmission occurs from ingestion of contaminated food or water or from exposure to faecal contaminated surfaces and from person to person by the faecal-oral route including homosexual practices.

What happens if I get it: symptoms occur approximately 1 to 2 weeks after ingestion of the parasite and usually last for over five days. Symptoms include Diarrhoea, flatulence, nausea, abdominal cramps, bloating, weight loss,

Diagnosis and treatment: the infection can usually be identified through a stool sample. A 7-10 day course of antibiotics, usually metronidazole sorts things out.

How can I avoid contracting giardiasis: no vaccination is available, so it is best to avoid drinking or eating food from utensils that may have been washed in contaminated water. To be sure, boil water for at least one minute – longer if at high altitudes. Wash hands thoroughly with soap and water. Also wash your hands after using the toilet and before handling or eating food (especially for persons with diarrhoea). Avoid drinking untreated water or using ice. Wash and/or peel all raw vegetables and fruits before eating and use uncontaminated water to wash all food that is to be eaten raw. Avoid eating uncooked foods when travelling in countries with minimal water treatment and sanitation system.


Airline News: September 2003

Three US airlines have been fined $750,000 between them over failure to offer adequate facilities to passengers with disabilities. America West, JetBlue and Southwest Airlines were found not to have provided enough space for storing wheelchairs on their flights.

Australian airline, Qantas, has denied reports that it is considering arming its planes with anti-missile devices.

Australia's second largest airline Virgin Blue has unveiled a new low cost carrier, Pacific Blue. The airline will be based at Christchurch in New Zealand and plans to start flying on February 1 next year. It aims to offer heavily reduced fares on routes to Australia and South Pacific destinations.

Bankrupt United Airlines has announced that it intends to launch a low-cost carrier. It will be competing with Frontier, JetBlue and Southwest, in the US and Ryanair in the UK all of whom have grown quickly despite the economic downturn. The new airline, not named as yet will initially fly from its Denver hub to Reno, Nevada, Las Vegas, Phoenix, New Orleans and Tampa. Tickets will go on sale in November.

British Airways have planned 20 farewell Concorde flights between Saturday, October 18 and Friday October 24. The last flight on which customers can buy seats will be the BA001 London Heathrow to New York JFK flight on Thursday, October 23. Thinking of taking a final Concorde trip? The one way trip between London and New York costs £4,350 ($7,165) and the round trip is £8,292. ($13,658).


Meeting News from London

Globetrotters meeting 6th September 2003 by Padmassana

We had a very special guest join us at the September Globetrotters meeting, despite not being announced, we were honoured that Mary-Jane Sweet from the Texas Globetrotter branch popped in to say hello (and enjoyed a pint or two at our local pub!) on her way back from a solo trip to Prague. Great to see you Mary-Jane, and thanks for coming to say hello!

If you are coming to London and have time on the first Saturday of every month, contact the Beetle, and she will arrange to meet you and bring you to a London Globetrotters meeting.

John Gimlette was our first speaker who introduced us to the South American country of Paraguay. He told us that 60% of cars in the country are actually stolen, usually from Argentina and Brazil and that many of the people live by selling goods on the streets, anything from oranges to goldfish in plastic bags. John showed us a photo of the Legislate building in Ascunsion that has a hole in its façade, this is due to a tank that was supposed to be starting a coup, however nobody else turned up and the tank ran out of petrol! John’s slides showed us other aspects of Paraguay including a British built railway that was closed in 2000 after a girl was killed and the Mennonites of German descent that live alongside the native Paraguayans but still speak a 16th Century Germanic dialect. We also saw the two Italian built gunboats of the Paraguayan navy dating from 1928, not to mention the fact that Paraguay is a landlocked country! To read more about Johns adventures in Paraguay read his book entitled “At the tomb of the inflatable pig”.

Our second speaker was ex Globetrotters President Richard Snailham who last spoke to Globetrotters 33 years ago. (Padmassana was 6 at the time and needless to say was not present!) Along with intrepid explorer John Blashford Snell, Richard took part in an expedition using read boats on the rivers of Bolivia and Paraguay. Like John before him, Richard gave us a few facts about Bolivia, such as the country is named after Simon Bolivar and that the Bolivians have a poor record of going to war which currently leaves them at 0-7. Like Paraguay, Bolivia has a navy despite being landlocked, he showed us pictures of two warships that were originally British. The expedition aimed to follow the rivers using a traditionally built reed boat and with the help of the Bolivian navy’s low loader they got to their starting point. However not without having to chop bits off the boat to get it under road bridges and giving La Paz a power cut when trying to get under electric cables. John showed us photos of the boats progress down river which was slow, mainly due to the low water level, which meant they had to portage the boats on lorries to find water deep enough and at one point having to push the reed boat with a dinghy with an outboard motor in order to not be pushed back from where they had come! Part of the expedition was medical, this included two dentists who removed over 1000 teeth during the trip! Eventually they ran out of navigable river so one boat was given to the Bolivian navy, one to a children’s park and the third, they burned! To read more about Richards’s journey pick up a copy of his book “Kota Mama”.

Coming up on Saturday th October, Roger Widdecombe will talk about: “It ain’t a Holiday,” his experiences on taking part in Raleigh International expeditions Ghana W Africa. Roger took part in three Raleigh International expeditions to Ghana from September 2001 to September 2002. Acting as a volunteer member of staff, he undertook the roles of expedition photographer and fundraiser and also staged the first sponsored Abseil Challenge event to be held in that country.

Following Roger, Juliet Coombe will be telling us all about Great Festivals around the World. This is Juliet's latest publication – how to party your way around the World while discovering the origins of each fiesta.

London meetings are held at The Church of Scotland, Crown Court, behind the Fortune Theatre in Covent Garden at 2.30pm the first Saturday of each month (exept for bank holiday weekends). There is no London meeting in August, but we will be back in September. For more information, you can contact the Globetrotters Info line on +44 (0) 20 8674 6229, or visit the website: www.globetrotters.co.uk


Mac’s Jottings: Japan

U. S. Soldiers Home, Washington: during a century of travel (well 78 years!) both in and out of service I have travelled to over 150 countries (I count both North and South Dakota as countries) and for some reason have jotted signs and happenings that I thought funny at the time (and now wonder why). So here is the perfect opportunity to share some of my anecdotes.

In Japan, often near railroad stations, they have what they call Capsule Hotels. They are like train berths one on top of the other or some refer to them as coffins. Businessmen after a night at the bars and who miss their trains home often stay in them. They even have a very small TV set in the bunk with you and a telephone. If you can’t find a place elsewhere then you look for a capsule hotel. I stayed in several. One had a sign at the entrance. No elevator. No Cooking. No tattoos (they associate tattoos with criminals and Cher.) No dead drunks. One time the bunk over me was not occupied and for some strange reason I left my money on the bunk overhead like it was a shelf. When I returned that night the manager handed me the money. I guess he knew only a foolish foreigner would do that. One time I went into a coffee shop near train station in Ueno section of Tokyo and when I left I left my backpack at the stool. I went to downtown Tokyo before discovering my backpack was missing. I thought maybe it got pulled off in the crowded subway. There are thousands of coffee shops in Ueno and I did not know if I could remember which one I was in. I went into one and the manager held up my backpack as if he had been holding it all day waiting for my return. The Japanese are just incredibly honest. More about capsule hotels later.

One way to cut down on expenses in Japan is to use the many vending machines found on streets everywhere. Food etc is cheaper there. Coffee in YMCA was $4 a cup. In the machines, $1.10. In McDonalds $1.80 a cup. Beer can cost you $6.00 in a bar but in vending machines outside $2.90 or less. They even sell whisky in vending machines on the street. I don’t know how they keep children from buying whisky from the vending machines. Japan has clear plastic umbrellas you can see thorough so you won’t run into people and spike them. Stores have stands outside to place your wet umbrella and not take into store.

A Japanese man that looked older than me stopped me on the street in Tokyo one time evidently to try out his English and said to me. “My, you look old. Are you tired? It turned out he was older than me and had been a Japanese fighter pilot in WWII with he said 303 missions. (I suspect I heard wrong.) His English was not too good. For some reason he told me he did not like Italians. He sang a bit of song Coming thru the Rye and asked me if I knew the name of that song. He laughed when he heard my military background and saluted me and then scooted away. I would have liked to have found out more about him like did he bomb Pearl Harbour. It was a most strange encounter. About as strange as these notes.

The honour of inventing the useful rickshaw falls to an American missionary in Japan who designed one for his invalid wife. The Japanese appropriated the idea and then the Chinese.

I one time was on a train in Japan and some Indian congressmen asked me if I would have lunch with them in a week as they were invited to the States. Before I met with them, I read up books about our Congress, how many how chosen etc so I would not look like a dummy. The first question they asked me is: “What is pie a la mode?” (It is pie with ice cream on top if asked.) They then asked about tipping which they were not used to in Japan. I did not tell them I went to places where tipping is not required Ha! I have met particularly Australians that have worked while travelling. I met an Irishman that got a job as extra in Japanese movies where they needed a Caucasian face in background checking into hotel, airport etc. He talked me into taking such a job. Military Intelligence found out about it and suggested I not do this as the studio Nichikecki (or something), sometimes slanted their picture anti American and I might not know from scene I was in. There went my movie career. I could have been a star. I met an Australian temporarily tending bar in US Military Sanno Hotel. Some try jobs that do not take away jobs from locals. Like big firms hiring foreigners for practice in conversational English. I met some Japanese that had had British teachers. I had to smile when I heard them talking with a Japanese accent. I don’t know if your Embassies would know of trade shows or possibilities for temporary work that did not take away jobs from others or not. They hired a Japanese to teach my Irish friend some Japanese He got more pay if he spoke a few words. We think of Japan as having high class films but they also make a lot of cheap films. One day my friend was playing the part of a reporter in front of Judge’s stand. The Japanese actor Judge did not show up the next day so my Irish friend was promoted to Judge in same movie.

Next month, Mac discusses India.

If you would like to contact Mac, he can be e-mailed on: macsan400@yahoo.com


Meeting News from New York

Stop press, the NY October meeting has been cancelled.

For details of forthcoming meetings email newyork@globetrotters.co.uk or register for email updates, click here at our website.

New York meetings are held at The Wings Theatre, 154 Christopher Street(btw Greenwich Stand Washington St), to the right of Crunch Fitness, in the Archive on the first Saturday of each month at 4 pm.


Being Careful: Bolivia Blockades

According to the UK’s Foreign and Commonwealth Office, Bolivia is undergoing a period of social unrest. Since the start of the year there have been a number of fatalities. Roads are blockaded from time to time. You should avoid demonstrations at all times and should not attempt to pass through or go around roadblocks. Strikes and other civil actions can occur at any time and can disrupt transport locally or nationally.

Blockades intensified in mid-September and continue. Road traffic across the Altiplano from La Paz westwards, in particular up to Lake Titicaca, the Peruvian border, Oruro, and the Chilean border is subject to blockades or disruption at any time. La Paz to the Yungas is equally affected. Visitors are advised not to travel in these areas. Sorata has particular problems.


Mutual Aid

Need help? Then write in with your question, and we’ll try and help.

Want a travelling buddy or advice about a place or country – want to share something with us – why not visit our Mutual Aid section of the Website: Mutual Aid.


Meeting News from Ontario

For information on Ontario meetings, please contact Svatka Hermanek: shermanek@schulich.yorku.ca or Bruce Weber: tel. 416-203-0911 or Paul Webb: tel. 416-694-8259.

Meetings are held on the third Friday of January, March, May, September and November. Usually at the Woodsworth Co-op, Penthouse, 133, Wilton Streetin downtown Torontoat 8.00 p.m.


Free London Museums: Royal Air Force Museum

If you are into airplanes, then this is the place for you: Britain's National Museum of aviation features over 70 full-sized aircraft including a unique collection of British, German and Italian planes.

The Museum also houses a flight simulator, 'Touch and Try' Jet Provost Trainer and Sunderland Flying Boat 'walk through' experience.

Address: Grahame Park Way, NW9.

Open: Daily, 1000-1800

Tube: Colindale Rail: Mill Hill Broadway.

Enquiries: 020 8205 2266 Entrance: FREE.


Have you got a tale to tell?

If you have a travellers tale that your aching to tell. Then why not visit the “Travel Sized Bites” section of the Website and share it with the world. Travel Sized Bites.


Meeting News from Texas

Globetrotters meeting on October 11th at 2pm

If you like independent, adventuresome, fun, daring, exciting, “off the beaten path” travel, this club is for you. Our meeting begins at 2 P.M. Come early so you won't be late! Enjoy handouts, travel talk time, and door prizes!

Dates of future meetings: November 8th.

For more information about the Texas Branch or if you would like to help Christina, please contact texas@globetrotters.co.uk or register for email updates at our website (click here) or call Christina at 830-620-5482.


Anglo- Paraguayan Friendship Society

Globetrotters Tony wrote in to tell us about the Anglo-Paraguayan Friendship Society he belongs to. He says that they hold some very enjoyable social events throughout the year. If anyone is interested in attending, they can contact Lotte Pigram, Anglo-Paraguayan Society, 93 Kingsfield Rd, Watford, Herts WD19 4TP, tel: 01923-246274 or e-mail Lotte on: lottepigram@hotmail.com


Travel Quiz

Win a Frommer’s guidebook on Spain 2003. See www.frommers.com for info on Frommer’s guidebooks.

Some people have said the quiz is difficult, we say do some research; try google.com or Ask Jeeves, if you need help with the answers.

The winner of last month's Frommer’s guide is Pippa Manley.

1. Which city is older – Barcelona or Madrid?

2. Which city hosts the annual bull running Fiesta de San Fermin?

3. The Mezquite is in which Spanish city?

4. Which museum in Bilbao was designed by American architect Frank Gehry?

5. What would you do with Tapas – eat it or drink it?

Your Name:

Your e-mail address:


Boycott Lonely Planet

The Burma Campaign UK is calling for a boycott of all Lonely Planet (LP) publications until Lonely Planet withdraws its Burma guide from the market.

 The Burma Campaign say that the development of hotels, transport and tourist attractions to encourage visitors to Burma is directly linked to mass human rights abuses. There are well-documented mass human rights abuses directly linked to the development of tourist infrastructure and the tourism industry. The United Nation's International Labour Organisation reports that “the military treat the civilian population as an unlimited pool of unpaid forced labourers and servants at their disposal. The practice of forced labour is to encourage private investment in infrastructure development, public sector works and tourism projects.”

Independent tourists are required to exchange $200 when entering the country, while many hotels, domestic airlines and other 'dollar only' retail outlets are fully or jointly owned by the regime or its associates – so local people see none of this money. Tourism currently benefits only a tiny percentage of Burma's 48 million people. Eighty per cent live in rural areas and do not in the main benefit from current forms of tourism.

Millions of men, women and children are forced to labour, under the harshest conditions, on infrastructure projects across Burma each year. Many thousands more have been forced from their homes to make way for tourism developments or as part of so-called 'beautification' projects.

Added to this, tourist dollars go straight into the hands of the dictatorship. For these reasons Aung San Suu Kyi, the British Government and the European Union have asked tourists not to visit Burma. Against the weight of this advice, Lonely Planet publications continue to promote tourism to Burma through their Burma guide.

Rough Guides has already adopted an ethical stance with regard to Burma. They say: “There are occasional instances where any benefits (from tourism) are overshadowed by the nature of the social and political climate. Apartheid South Africa was an example. Burma, with its brutal dictatorship, state control of the economy and forced labour used to build its tourist infrastructure, is another. As long as the military regime remains in power and Aung San Suu Kyi – leader of the democratically elected National League for Democracy – requests that tourists do not visit, Rough Guides will not publish a guide to the country.”

What do you think? Do you have a view? Write in and let and tell the Beetle.


Tourists Kidnapped in Colombia

Police in Colombia say that eight foreign tourists have been kidnapped as they hiked near the Caribbean coast where a so-called Lost City (Ciudad Perdida) sits in the jungle built by an indigenous civilisation 500 B.C. One British tourist has managed to escape, the remaining seven tourists are from Israel, the UK, Germany and Spain. Thousands of troops have been mobilised to search for them in the high mountains of the Sierra Nevada, 750 kilometres (465 miles) north of the capital, Bogotá. Most of Colombia's 3,000-odd kidnappings every year – that is one every four hours – are carried out by FARC (Latin America's biggest guerrilla group with 17,000 fighters) who use the ransom to fund their 39-year war on the state.


Padmassana visits Berlin

Continuing our recent theme on visiting Germany, we had the Beetle’s report on Munich, and now Padmassana has sent us this trip report from his recent visit to Berlin. This is how he found Berlin since he was last there, before the wall came down in 1989.

You have got to visit Berlin – this now has to be the best city in Europe. There is so much to do – Berlin has changed out of all recognition since I was last here. Shops are open on Saturday afternoons, but I think even the Beetles credit card would go sick at the thought of shopping on Kudamm!

I did a walking tour (www.berlinwalks.com) for 5 hours one day, just walked into “Mitte” the heart of the city that used to be in the East. It is a vibrant place now, not the dour way it used to be. The ghost stations are open again but have been left with their 1930’s decoration. Checkpoint Charlie is still there, but on the east side where you went through all the stuff to get in to the east are shops and cafes, it is unrecognisable now. Also the air is not full of the exhaust fumes from the East German Trabants; now the east has BMW’s and Merc’s, as well as McDonalds!

I was the only one on the walk who had been into the East pre 1989, I had to describe to an Aussie couple what it was like, it was hard to remember where the big shed was at Checkpoint Charlie and the chicane in the road. They couldn’t believe the palaver involved back then in getting into the GDR.

I never dreamed the last time I was here that I would be able to walk through the Brandenburg Gate, but I did yesterday. Where the wall was taken down they have replaced it with bricks in the road to show where it was. The biggest change is Potsdam Platz, I remember it as a concrete wasteland, with barbed wire and tank traps and towers with machine guns and massive flood lights, now it is an area of new modern buildings like the Sony centre. I like the public art in Berlin, it’s fun, there are lots of bears, doing various things as adverts for local businesses.

There are lots more places to eat than I remember, and apart from my daily milkshake, I haven’t eaten any burgers, rather I paid a daily visit to the excellent Kamps bakeries, which do hot sandwiches and the Turkish Imbiss stube, which do good kebabs.

I visited the Pergamon museum on Museum Island after the tour, lots of fab stuff from Pergamon, Iran and Babylon. Went to visit the Reichstag next, but the queue was a joke, so I walked up Unter Den Linden to the TV tower (aka The pope’s revenge), so called because when the sun shines a cross appears on this communist, atheist piece of 60’s architecture, only 6 Euros to go up for great views of the city.

Back to the Checkpoint Charlie museum (7 Euros), which has been greatly enlarged and is now very interesting. Had a look round Potsdam Platz, and bought a then and now postcard as a reminder, which they stamp the back with a GDR customs stamp. Went via the Topography of Terrors which is an exhibition about the Gestapo in their former dungeons, unearthed when the wall was dismantled. You can borrow a commentary tape in English, which guides you along the exhibit in about an hour. Nearby a bit of the Berlin wall is left, which now ironically has a fence round it to protect it from people stealing bits!

Wandered back to the Reichstag the line had shortened, queued for 30 minutes, then you get the lift up to the glass roof, best views of Berlin possible and it’s completely free, which is why the lines are so long. The idea is that people can look down on the German parliament, and the politicians can look up and be reminded as to who really has the power.

I had planned on going to Potsdam itself to see the palaces. I found out that it’s best to book Potsdam in advance because UNESCO limit the number of visitors who can go around the palaces and it doesn’t take many coach parties of 50 or 60 to fill it up. So abandoned this idea. Potsdam lies at the end of the S2 line. It’s really weird going through the stations now they are open as I remember the dark ghost stations. You can tell the old ones because they have green tiles. Instead I visited the East Side gallery. This is a bit of the wall next to the river in the east. It has the famous mural of a Trabant coming thru the wall with Honecker and Brezhnev kissing on the back seat, and another brilliant mural like a cartoon of the wall and people trying various means of escape.

I tried to go to the Documentation museum, but it was closed: Lonely Planet failed to mention it’s only open Wednesday – Sunday!

The weather was incredibly hot, so I went on a river trip for an hour (7 euros) which is nice as you get a different perspective of the city. The commentary was in German, but luckily could remember enough German to understand most of it including some of the jokes levelled against the German politicians who have moved from Bonn, they are now called “Gastarbeiters”.

So that was Berlin, I hope its not another 15 years till I get here again. I strongly recommend it – give it a go and visit!

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