I was pretty taken with Cefalù. I had not expected it to have retained such charm since its advent to practically every tour firm’s brochure. My one disappointment was quite a major one, that the lovely cathedral, with mosaics older than those at Monreale [though nothing like as many,] was undergoing repair, a place of noise and dust with little mosaic actually showing. Never mind, you can’t win ’em all! Somehow I missed the quickest way to the bus for Castelbuono and I arrived in time to see the back of it as it left. It was right by the train station and, as Castelbuono was the very first stop and a train was almost due, I was not too worried. In fact my only worry was during the short train journey when I realised I had not validated my ticket! Fortunately nobody had told me that the station was nowhere near the town and that the walk was up a very long and pretty steep hill. I only had seconds to worry about this, as the fellow passenger who told me went on to offer a lift. We can have been only a little behind the bus!

My lift was to the tourist office who started to look for somewhere for me to stay that night. I quite fancied the idea of a b&b for a change and the price sounded OK until they phoned back to all but double it as I was on my own. No good. The next attempt was the only hotel in the little town, as far as I know, the Ariston. This was remarkably cheap and I left my luggage at the tourist office to carry on uphill to the castle before dropping down to the Ariston. The view, both of the town below and of the hills of the interior in the other direction confirmed the impression that it would be a good walking centre. However there was no time to weigh that up with only two nights left. I returned to the Ariston and the very cheap price came to seem explicable. The receptionist was playing cards with a couple of friends – they called to mind Manet’s famous painting in the Courtauld Gallery at Somerset House, London. Shortly after he had given me the key I heard them – all – leave the hotel and that was it. There was nobody else in the hotel from then until I left in the morning. I do not remember the name of the place where I ate. I suppose you might call it an Italian fast food joint but it was just what I needed – fast indeed but remarkably friendly. I should go again – just above the arch on the right if you want to find it!

So back in the morning to Cefalù on the bus to catch the train on along the coast. I had by now what I thought was probably a pipedream, that it would be great to take a boat out to one of the Aeolian Islands for a couple of hours if timetables permitted – and they seemed to. This time the mistake was not my fault. The departure board in the station had been changed from the time-table from the tourist office and I had to wait well over an hour for the next train – and pay extra for the privilege because it was called an express. It would hardly be reasonable for an Englishman to complain about the train service anywhere but this was actually as bad as ours at near their worst.

Thus I arrived at Milazzo very uncertain whether it was going to be possible to do anything. I discovered that by taking an aliscafo [hydrofoil] I could get just about an hour on Lípari. I am and I was very aware that an hour on Lípari is absurdly insufficient. On the other hand it was nearly an hour more than nothing and allowed a sight of Vulcano on the way – and the sea was like a mill pond. There was really no contest in my mind; I went and I am glad I did – though I should certainly like to go again for longer and see some of the other islands as well.

After the trip, reported in the next edition, I was rather too tired to walk up to the castle at Milazzo but it looked striking enough towering over the town. I was there at a time when the industrial smoke said to spoil the town so badly was absent and it seemed a good place. I stayed at the Central in the Via  del Sole, an ordinary little place with shared bathrooms, cheaper but otherwise much the same as several others. I ate at a sort of shop/cafe at the far end of town from a wonderful spread of antipasti type dishes – very cheaply indeed.

David was a keen walker, particularly on mountains before he developed serious heart problems in 1995. He has now adapted his holidays to what he is able to do and we are presenting his account of 12 days in Sicily over this and the coming months. Next two episodes: Palermo.

Next episode – Aeolians , Messina, Taormina.

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Answers to Flag Quiz

1 Bahamas	2 Brazil	3 Croatia	4 Germany	5 Iceland

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Planning a visit to London or already live in London or visit, well, Gordon regularly hosts get togethers for visitors and local people alike to go to the theatre and concerts, sometimes free and sometimes at reduced cost.  He also hosts suppers at selected restaurants – the picture shows a group of Gordon’s friends. 

To join Gordon’s friends’ group, click on this link:

Gordon's friends

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Complaints from international visitors to the United States about hostile treatment by immigration officials have prompted them to clean up their act, the official in charge of border controls has said.  The complaints, many from Britons travelling for business or pleasure have forced the agency to institute a code of conduct to ensure officers treat visitors with respect.  Complaints had come from all over the world, but the department was particularly struck by the number from Britain.  One of the major issues is said to be the handcuffing, detention and deportation of some potential visitors who had committed “minor technical visa violations” previously, such as briefly or unwittingly breaching a 90 day permission to stay. “While we must — and will — secure our border against terrorists, we must treat all travellers professionally and courteously,” said the agency.

But meanwhile…

By subjecting most visitors to scans of their faces and fingers, the United States will this week expand a mass surveillance system that threatens freedom and race relations, a privacy watchdog says.

Now most visitors entering the United States will have to put each index finger in turn on a glass plate that electronically scans it, and to have a digital photo taken.

The United States says its US-VISIT program — already in place for travellers requiring visas and now being rolled out more widely — will add an average of just 15 seconds to entry checks and will enhance security.

It says the biometric data will be stored in databases, along with personal information such as full name, date of birth, citizenship, sex and passport number, and can be accessed by border, consular, immigration and law enforcement officials.

London-based rights group Privacy International said in a recent report that the scheme relied on flawed technology and opaque, error-strewn watch lists on which innocent people could find themselves wrongly identified as security threats.

Ryanair are advertising jobs: http://www.careerjet.co.uk/jobs_ryanair.html  We at Globetrotter Towers are idly wondering whether benefits include free flights located in the bathroom.

New routes added Ryanair airline announced last month it would begin flying on Oct. 31 to Riga from London, Frankfurt, Germany, and Tampere, Finland, after the Latvian government cut airport taxes in an attempt to lure more tourism and make Riga International Airport a regional hub.  It is Ryanair's first venture into one of the 10 new European Union member states.  Commentators have wryly noted that it is not clear who is most excited about the new route into Riga, travellers into Riga or Latvians looking to travel out.  Uhh… didn't Michael O Leary say that Ryanair would not be expanding into the new EU accession countries?

No unions, please  Ryanair is about to get into another spat, this time with SAS.  Ryanair is not unionised and promises to pay more than union rates if its employees negotiate their contracts directly with the company rather than join unions for collective bargaining.  Most SAS workers do belong to a union.  Swedish trade union HTF recently handed out sick bags to passengers flying on Ryanair from Nykoping, what Ryanair refer to as Stockholm, some 160 km south west of Stockholm as part of a wider campaign organized by the International Transport Workers' Federation (ITF). The white bags were printed with claims that Ryanair staff had to work longer and for lower pay than rivals.  Speaking at a Stockholm press conference, Chief Executive, Michael O'Leary said that Ryanair paid more on average to staff and that its rules on the maximum hours staff could work were the strictest in the industry. “We are an embarrassment to a lot of trade unions,” he went on to say.  According to O’Leary, Ryanair staff earn an average of EUR50,582 a year, more than staff at airlines where staff are unionized, O'Leary added.  O'Leary also said Ryanair would sue Swedish newspaper Dagens Nyheter unless it retracted reports critical of some aspects of Ryanair's safety record.

Yet more pay as you go service Ryanair has been looking for ways to introduce new services they can use to boost revenues while keeping fares low.  Their latest attempt is to introduce in-flight entertainment such as movies, chart videos, cartoons and sitcoms on all its flights, but passengers will have to pay GBP£5, EUR7 (USD$9) per flight if they want to access movies, cartoons and television shows on the portable units, which will not be built into seats as on full-service carriers.  Ryanair said the system will be trialled initially on five Stansted based aircraft from November. If successful, it will gradually be rolled out across the airline's entire fleet over the winter.  Ryanair needs three percent of its passengers to use the units to cover its costs.  Each plane will initially carry 24 entertainment units which would be distributed on a first-come, first-served basis.  The units, which look like a small laptop, are the brainchild of former aircraft baggage handler Bill Boyer who sold the idea to his then employer, Alaska Airlines.

Boyer later founded APS, based in the industrial city of Tacoma, south of Seattle. Ryanair is now APS's biggest customer.

The entertainment units are Ryanair's latest push to tap new sources of non-ticket revenue. Ryanair passengers are also charged for drinks and food. “At the moment the ice is free, but if we could find a way of targeting a price on it we would,” O'Leary earlier told an airlines conference.

And finally… their blurb about themselves, Ryanair describe themselves as being like superman, up, up and away, they say.  It took us a week to stopped laughing, and if you don’t believe us, take a look at this: http://www.ryanair.co.uk/about/abouthome.html

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Meeting news from our branches around the world.

Rajasthan is a land where the vagaries of nature have settled to co-exist with the good cheer of its people.  The architectural grandeur of royalty and the tales of valour and chivalry are the essence of its very spirit. Rajasthan is a destination that enchants the visitor with every little discovery that is made, because the more one discovers, the more is the urge to stay on or come back.  It offers a unique destination for anyone’s holidays.

Jaipur, the first planned city of historic India, better known as the pink city and the Venice of east is a perfect combination of old and modern architect of India.  Pushkar is your host for rural, religion and culture of the region. The Thar Desert tells a story of men living in harmony with a hostile nature.  It is not deserted but contains a complete philosophy to live with the nature.  Ranthambore presents an opportunity for viewing wild life as you can experience the first hand the habitat of the king of the forest the tiger.  The following ‘tour’ is in two parts but shows how you can easily explore parts of Rajasthan.

JAIPUR

Jaipur, popularly known as the Pink City, was founded in 1727 AD by the Maharaja of Amber Sawai Jai Singh. This remarkable city is considered a marvel of town planning.  Designed in accordance with ancient Hindu treaties on architecture, the Silpa Shastra, Jaipur follows a grid system and is encircled by a fortified wall.  The palace lies in the heart of the city and occupies the space of the central grid. The rest of the grids were cut across neatly by wide lanes, which divided the area into tidy, well laid-out rectangles of commercial and residential use. The fortified wall has eight gates (originally had seven) and was built for protection against invading armies and wild animals. Today the city has spread beyond these walls and reached neighbouring towns and continues to grow.

CITY PALACE

The city Palace complex is the most important landmark with its numerous outbuildings, courtyards, impressive gateways and temples.  Occupying one seventh of the walled city area, the city palace houses the seven storied Chandra Mahal (residence of the royal family), Mubarak Mahal, the Diwan-I-Am, and Diwan-I-Khas. The museum houses a rare collection of arms, carpets, costumes, paintings and royal paraphernalia. A notable exhibit is a pair of pure silver containers, which are the largest single pieces of silver in the world.

Across the road from the palace is the JANTAR MANTAR, one of the five observatories built by Sawai Jai Singh, this one is the latest and the best preserved. A collection of complex astronomical instruments chiselled out of stone – most of which continue to provide fairly accurate information to this day – is the highlight of the observatory.

HAWA MAHAL (PALACE OF WINDS)

This adjoins the outside of the palace wall.  Built in 1799 this pink seven storied building overlooks one of the main streets and also provides some excellent views of the city.  Dedicated to the lord Krishna, it is shaped like a crown, which adorns the Lord’s head.  It has over 900 niches and is quite an unusual structure the likes of which are not to be found anywhere else in the world.

AMBER FORT

Set in a picturesque location, Amber is a fascinating blend of Hindu and Muslim architecture.  Built in the 16th century by Raja Man Singh, it sprawls on the hillside.  Built in red sandstone and white marble, the palace complex has some very interesting apartments, the likes of which are not to be found anywhere else in the country.  Jai Mandir, Sheesh Mahal, Sukh Niwas, Ganesh Pol are some of the prominent areas of interest.  The old township of Amber lies at the foothills of the palace and has an Old World charm, a character of its own.

PUSHKAR FAIR (November)

Held at Pushkar near Ajmer once in a year, better known by the name of Pushkar Cattle Fair, is one of the most colourful festivals of India. Thousands of pilgrims come to bathe in the holy water of the Pushkar Lake. Legend has it that the lake appeared miraculously on the spot, where the petals of the lotus fell from the hands of lord Brahma. Pushkar has an atmosphere of an ancient town, peaceful and secluded but for twelve days of the month of KARTIK (Hindu calendar), it transformed into a spectacular fair ground.  The fair is an amazing sight to behold including street sellers showing off their dazzling range of wares in hundreds of roadside stalls.

RELIGIOUS ACTIVITIES

People come from different parts of Rajasthan to worship lord Brahma and take bath in the holy lake.  Pilgrims start coming in the early morning in groups singing the religious songs dedicated to Hindu gods to bathe in the Pushkar lake. The process continues throughout the day to turn into DEEPDAN ceremony.  The entire atmosphere reverberates with the ringing of bells.  At night, hundreds of small oil lamps placed on green leaves set the lake alight.  Shopkeepers keeps their shops open day and night for the last three or four days to keep the city alive.

CAMELS AND CATTLE

Worlds largest number of camel gathering is a spectacular seen that floods this area with thousands of tourist every year. The most spectacular site besides the animals is the day to day activity of the people who comes with the animals and spend the day and night under open sky. Horse races, camel races and other animal based events are organized by the organizing committee to choose the best animal of the fair.

If you would like to get in touch with Bhaghirath about touring Rajasthan, he can be contacted by e-mail on: vision21century@sify.com

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Here’s a little Beetle quiz based on capital cities. See how many you get right! Go on, have a guess!

What is the capital city of the following countries:

1. Bulgaria
2. Ghana
3. Mauritius
4. Tunisia
5. Maldives
6. Yemen

For the answers, see at the end of the e-newsletter.

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Our first speaker was Simon Casson, who took us on a journey in the footsteps of his hero Butch Cassidy, riding the Outlaw Trail. Simon’s pictures portrayed the barren deserts through which the outlaws managed to stay one step ahead of the law. It was not an easy journey, made more challenging when Simon managed to buy a horse that was blind! Over the course of his trip Simon and his two companions got through a number of horses and also lost a couple. Simon finally managed to reach Canada some months later than planned.

Our second speaker was Calum Macleod, who took us Uzbekistan. The country only gained its independence from the USSR in 1991. We saw the beautiful cities of Khiva and Samarkand with their minarets and spires and wonderful blue tiles. Simon explained that the country is allegedly becoming easier to visit, so hopefully more of us will get the opportunity to visit these cities.

Mark your diary for forthcoming meetings:

Sat. 6th November

• Christian Tyler – Into the TaklamakanDesert – “Wild West China”
• Janet Street-Porter – Walking in Australia The Larapinta Trail [Alice Springs] and the Bay of Fire Walk [Tassie]

Sat. 4 December

• Amar Grover – North Pakistan – Kailash Valleys of Chitral to Gilgit via ShandurPass
• Matthew Leeming -Afghanistan OR Iraqi Marsh Arabs

Sat. 8th January 2005 (the second Saturday)

• Four Mini-talks and New Year Party

London meetings are held at The Church of Scotland, Crown Court, behind the Fortune Theatre in Covent Garden at 2.30pm the first Saturday of each month. There is no London meeting in August, but we will be back in September. For more information, you can contact the Globetrotters Info line on +44 (0) 20 8674 6229, or visit the website: www.globetrotters.co.uk Admission: Members £2.00 Non-members £4.00.

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Volunteers wanted for projects worldwide.

India Project, Karmi Farm Clinic

Nomad Travel Store is now seeking voluntary doctors and nurses for our charity clinic in India.  The clinic is based on Karmi Farm in the foothills of the Himalayas on the border of Sikkim.  We have spaces throughout 2005.  If you would like more information please contact Cathy on: cathy@nomadtravel.co.uk  The website of Karmi Farm Guesthouse is: www.karmifarm.com

Kilimanjaro Medical help Required

We're running a trek up Kili in conjunction with Cancer Research next spring and are looking for a doctor and a nurse (or two doctors) to accompany the trek (12-20 Feb 2005).  Do you know a suitable doctor who might be interested (and fit enough).  They would travel free of charge.  Please e-mail: markw@adventurecompany.co.uk or see: http:\www.adventurecompany.co.uk

Project Monitoring with Help Argentina

Help Argentina is a unique non-profit organization that works in conjunction with hundreds of other non-profit and social development organizations with the aim of strengthening the social sector as a whole. Most of the work will be done in the field working with beneficiary organizations, conducting surveys, delivering supplies, etc. Work place and hours are flexible. mpazmm@HelpArgentina.org

Social Work with CIPPEC Argentina

CIPPEC is a non-governmental organization working to promote equality and growth in Argentina. CIPPEC aims to make public institutions stronger, to make opportunities equal for everyone and to better the social situation for all Argentineans. Volunteers can work on a range of projects. Volunteers will work for four hours a day. vweyrauch@cippec.org

Inca Porter Project, Peru

The Inca Porter Project is looking for long term volunteers with fluent Spanish to staff their new training and drop-in centre. If you are interested, please see:  http://www.peruweb.org/porters/

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If you have a travellers tale that your aching to tell. Then why not visit the “Travel Sized Bites” section of the Website and share it with the world. Travel Sized Bites

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There was no New York meeting in October, but we will resume in November – Subject will be Tibet by Ken Axen!

For details of forthcoming meetings email newyork@globetrotters.co.uk or register for email updates, click here at our website.

New York meetings are held at The Wings Theatre, 154 Christopher Street (btw Greenwich St and Washington St ), to the right of Crunch Fitness, in the Archive on the first Saturday of each month at 4 pm.  Admission: $8.00 for members and $10.00 for non-members.

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Back in January 2004 Martin Wright, one the club’s most sociable regulars at the London Meetings, royally entertained a packed Crown Court with tales of his marathon cycle ride to Australia! Many in that audience will remember his great photos, distinctive narrative style and his thirst for adventure. Well Martin is at it again – this time he’s go back to the land down under to ‘pick up his bike and have a look round’. I think too many cold winter nights provided the motivation to get back on the road! This is the second in an occasional series, based on Martin’s emails, and charts his offbeat approach to the road ahead.

21^st June: Arrived in DENMARK early this afternoon after a great few days of cycling to reach here.  Even with the bloody wind in my face it was still enjoyable.  Less traffic and big bloody road trains to deal with and of course less of the grey ghosts towing their bloody caravans!  At any caravan park you are likely to see grey ghosts arriving during the course of the day and some of them are a real source of amusement.  Most of them cannot reverse their caravan into a bay so drive around the park looking for a way to drive in – sometimes they have to get other people to move vehicles or get another driver to reverse the caravan for them!  I think anybody towing a bloody caravan should take a driving test to prove they can reverse into a space.  If they can't do it they should f*** off around Australia on a bus or better still stay at home…  My bicycle is in good shape now I’ve had a few minor repairs completed.  Should be in Perth in about in about one week and will write again from there…

20^th July: Have finished with the south west corner and am now heading along the west coast.  Am at present in Kalbarri, a small town about 500kms north of Perth but will have to get a move on now as I will need to be in Darwin by mid September as my visa will be at an end and I will need to fly up for a renewal.  I spent far longer in the south west corner of the country than I intended – the weather was not at all good but the area is so beautiful I stayed an extra day almost everywhere I visited.  The big tree country around Walpole is breathtaking – I visited the tree top walk which gives a real idea of just how big these bloody trees are.  At Pemberton I climbed the Gloucester Tree, which is used as a lookout for bushfires and at 61 metres above ground you can see for miles!  Don't climb it if you are afraid of heights as one or two people went about 10 metres up, became stuck and it took a while to bring them back down.  Nannup was wonderful and I stayed at the 'black cockatoo' backpackers which was run by an interesting man whose fridge told his story…  It was here I met the three young ladies who teased me somewhat and left me very frustrated.  Visited Augusta for a spot of whale watching which was breathtaking and tried to hook a few but the line kept on snapping…

1^st August: Reached sunny Exmouth on Friday.  The journey up to Carnarvon and on to Exmouth was delayed by unseasonal heavy rainfall, which left me with a few short days of cycling.  As a result I had to camp wild or stay at rest bays, which were usually full of caravaners but I did meet a few interesting and generous people along the way.  On arriving at Nerren Nerren rest bay I was approached by an Aussie man, John, who presented me with a can of whisky and coke.  After putting up my tent John called me over to sit under his caravan awning where I was given another drink as we chatted about Aussie rules football or aerial ping pong as I prefer to call it. The next course of cheese and biscuits along with nibbles and dips ensured we then got on to talking about cricket, whilst soon after John’s wife Heidi appeared and presented us both with steak, sausages, vegetables and mashed potatoes; totally delicious!  Somewhat better than the two day old sausage sandwiches I was going to eat…

The following day I was held up by rain yet again and was plied with coffee from a 72 year old lady who has been travelling around Australia for the last five years with her pet shitzui.  For the next couple of days this lady passed me on the road and at the next rest stop would pull up and have a cup of tea ready for when I arrived.

I finally arrived in Carnarvon last Sunday and found that the roads were flooded in places and I had to wade through 18 inches of water.  At the caravan park I met a Dutch couple and together we visited the pub for a few beers – luckily they served Guinness, which was a welcome relief from the Aussie beer.  The ride onwards from Carnarvon was again interesting! I’d camped in the bush one night and was woken first by a truck pulling up at around midnight.  Soon after I was woken by voices and a torch shining on my tent – after this there were no more disturbances but I did not sleep at all well! 

Visited Coral Bay, a beautiful beach resort but the caravan park was expensive and noisy.

The next day took me to the very flat and uninteresting countryside of Exmouth, which is thankfully surrounded on 2 sides by the Gulf of Exmouth and the Indian Ocean.  On the ocean side is the CapeRangeNational Park and the Ningaloo Reef.  Yesterday I took a bus to Turquoise bay and hired a snorkel, mask & flippers and visited the underwater wonderland.  I saw a variety of colourful fish -  some big, some small and some which frightened the living daylights out of me!  I saw a turtle, a manta ray and a bloody great big leopard shark – indeed I spent far more time swimming than I realised and a great day was topped off by sunburn on my back.

Another rest day today and then tomorrow I am heading back to the highway and on to Karratha, which I hope to reach by next weekend.  Should have more news by then…

Which countries are represented by these flags? For the answers, see at the end of the eNews.

1	2	3	4	5

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