I’m writing this as we
turn into Spring. The weather is on the turn now. Each day you can feel it
getting slightly warmer, although it does still get a bit nippy at night. A
couple of Saturdays ago my friend Joao came over from Lisbon and we had a
late lunch sitting by the sea enjoying the sunshine and the following day I
drove up to Ericeira to meet up with my friend Vanessa to visit Mafra market.
I left home about 9.00 and had
a fabulous drive up the coast. Everywhere is so green at the moment and the
blossom is starting to come out. Even the badly burnt areas around Mafra
have changed colour. All the allotment areas are a vision of freshly turned
earth and newly planted vegetables. The locals were all out along the
roadside with their little tables selling bags of potatoes, onions, turnips,
garlic, bread, chorizo etc etc. This is quite a common sight at weekends and
in some places you can buy beautiful bunches of flowers. There is a lovely
miniature village on the outskirts of Ericeira and opposite it is an area
just devoted to vegetables and fresh bread. The miniature village also does
a mean doughnut – always worth a stop!
We set off to explore further
up the coast towards Peniche. It was lovely to see new parts of the country.
The coastline is very beautiful and the villages and little
towns quite fascinating. Some are still very traditional and quaint but
spoilt by seventies infill building. We also passed a very amusing Vespa
rally. This consisted of about 80 different coloured Vespas of varying ages,
driven by young, middle-aged and old bikers!
Then, of course, lunch beckoned.
The previous weekend Vanessa had been to a restaurant that she said was
amazing so we tootled off back towards Ericeira looking for the village. We
found it quite easily but then had to ask directions to the restaurant. She
said that the road went from tarmac to rough but when the rough started it
was something else. Basically the road ran out at the edge of a cliff. I
sort of sat there dumbstruck and she offered to drive – I gratefully
accepted. The access to this restaurant is down a rough three-quarter size
track with a direct drop into the ocean and has about three hairpin bends in
it! She managed perfectly of course. It’s me – I hate heights
and can’t swim, so that combination was a guarantee of a panic!
The place was fantastic. It’s
on the edge of the cliff with views out over the Atlantic (next coastline the
USA). It is run by fishermen so the fish is chucked up the cliff and
straight into the kitchen. It has three dining rooms and by the time we left
at about 1.30 the place was packed out. Because we were early (12.10) we
managed to get a table for two by the window. The majority of the tables
were already set up for families with bread, olives, pasteis (home made mixed
fish ones) and varying sizes of big saucepans containing caldeirada (a
wonderful Portuguese fish stew). There was a daily fish menu but they also
did meat dishes. The kitchen was open to view and the chef is a fisherman
himself.
Vanessa had a half portion (a
full portion can feed three) of mixed fried cuttlefish and manta ray which
was served with tomato and black bean rice and chips in small chunks; I had a
skewer of monkfish with prawns with a salad. We had a local bottle of
fabulous white wine and the total bill was 21 euros (approximately £14). Can’t
wait to go again but only if Vanessa will drive down the cliff!
Eventually made it to Mafra
market. It’s a good market with the usual stalls of T-shirts, jeans,
bedding, household goods, baskets, materials, sunglasses etc. The underwear
stall was selling bras and knickers at 2 euros a piece! And good quality too.
It was a very windy day so the stallholders were desperately holding things
down with the nearest available stone. The market is held in front of the Mafra
Palace which makes it a rather good setting. The olives they sell on Cascais
market are beautiful. I bought some big black ones (€2.70 a kilo) and
marinated them in garlic, olive oil, Italian seasoning and chilli flakes.