For information on Ontario meetings, please contact Svatka Hermanek: shermanek@schulich.yorku.ca or Bruce Weber: tel. 416-203-0911 or Paul Webb: tel. 416-694-8259.

Meetings are held on the third Friday of January, March, May, September and November. Usually at the Woodsworth Co-op, Penthouse, 133, Wilton Street in downtown Toronto at 8.00 p.m.

Big Red Barn Ent. in Vancouver, Canada, are presently in post production on a documentary called “Bikes on Ice”, where they sent a small digi-cam along with a team of 3 arctic cyclists to the Yukon and Alaska. They documented their journey – in journal style – they successfully retraced the bicycle journey from Dawson City to Nome Alaska in 49 days, done by two men in the year 1900 during the gold rush.

They are now looking seriously at another 6-7 expeditions to present for the series “X-PLORE” for CTV Travel, OLN and Discovery. “Bikes on Ice” was considered the pilot and will air on CTV Travel June 24, 2003 in Canada. They are looking for unique and exciting expeditions we can document for the series (one hour doc's).

Do you know of any expeditions in the works – sailing, polar, skiing, kayaking, canoeing, they're looking for a variety of possibilities around the world.

Please visit the www.bikesonice.com site and have a look at what our pilot doc. for the series is about and do visit our company site www.brbmg.com

The Texas Branch of the Globetrotters Club will meet Saturday 14^th June 2003 at the New Braunfels Public Library – note back to old location. This month’s meeting will feature a Magical Mystery slide show of Europe presented by Chris and Julie. It was such a big hit at the May meeting we are doing it again, featuring different locales across the continent.

Dates of future meetings:

July 12th – China
August 9th – To be advised

If you like independent, adventuresome, fun, daring, exciting, “off the beaten path” travel, this club is for you. Our meeting begins at 2 P.M. Come early so you won't be late! Enjoy handouts, travel talk time, and door prizes!

For more information about the Texas Branch: please contact texas@globetrotters.co.uk or register for e-mail updates at our website (click here) or call Christina at 830-620-5482

If anybody would like to enquire about meetings or help Christina, please contact her on: texas@globetrotters.co.uk

Win a Frommer’s guidebook on Australia 2003. See www.frommers.com for info on Frommer’s guidebooks.

Some people have said the quiz is difficult, we say do some research; try google.com or Ask Jeeves, if you need help with the answers.

The winner of last month's Frommer’s Guide to Seattle is Tom Calvert. Please let the Beetle know your postal address so that she can send you your prize.

The airport is located some 15 miles (24 km) away from Dallas and 18 miles (29 km) away from Fort Worth. There are four terminals:

• Terminal A is for American/American Eagle flights.
• Terminal B serves America West, American, Continental, United, US Airways and most non-US airlines.
• Terminal C is for American Airlines.
• Terminal E is for Aeromexico, AirTran, Delta and Northwest flights.

History: the cities of Dallas and Fort Worth, Texas, have a rivalry going back a long time and this is true when it came to sharing an airport. Dallas first suggested sharing an airport back in 1927, but it was not to happen for many years, until 1968.

In 1940, when both Dallas and Fort Worth were looking for funding to prop up their respective ailing airports, the Civil Aeronautics Administration tried to persuade them to join forces and offered US $1.9 million to get it going, but nothing doing. In 1941, American and Braniff airlines keen to cut costs got together with the city of Arlington to develop Midway Airport. Nice try, but this time Dallas and Fort Worth fell out over the siting of the main terminal and again nothing happened.

More than twenty years on, in 1964 the Civil Aeronautics Board ruled that Love Field (Dallas) and Great Southwest International (Fort Worth) were unsuitable for future needs and gave the two cities just 180 days to find a site for a joint airport or it would do the job for them. Under J. Erik Jonsson, Mayor of Dallas and also chairman of an Interim Airport Board things began to happen. A suitable site was found situated about 17 miles from both cities. Money was raised, prairie land was bought and the Dallas Fort Worth Regional Airport Board created in 1968.

The first commercial flight landed at the new DFW on January 13, 1974 and it has been going from strength to strength ever since. In 2000DFWwas the world's fifth busiest airport and has expansion plans to get even bigger.

How many places on earth have you been to that offer so many interesting surprises? Papua New Guinea (PNG in short,) situated north of Australia and east of Indonesia on the island of New Guinea offers a myriad of surprises which come as culture shock for the cultural and adventure tourists.

The Highlands of Papua New Guinea, which is made up of five of the country’s 19 provinces, is the rugged interior, whose people of short, stocky warrior farmers, make up a third of the country’s 5 million people of Melanesian and Polynesian stocks.

The Highlands of PNG is truly “last frontier territory.” The first white men set foot on this part of the world in the 1960s. The Highlands has been referred to by many travellers as wild, rugged and isolated, making it a truly amazing place for its sheer natural beauty and pristine wilderness. It’s a natural wonderland and perhaps, the very place in the world that should rightfully be given the title of “last frontier”. With its towering, cool, cloud-covered mountain peaks, deep gorges, evergreen valleys and fast-flowing rivers, it is the region in PNG that is still very much untouched and unexplored. Its people are colourful and you only have to visit one of the major cultural shows such as the Goroka or Mt Hagen Shows to see why. In one big gathering, you will be confronted with loud pulsating sounds of “kundu drums” made from hollowed logs, which are covered with lizard and snake skin and confronted with thousands of colourfully-painted faces and bodies that glisten in the Highlands sunlight. Their birds of paradise, lorikeet, parrot, cassowary and cockatoo feathers are just as amazing as they sway to the rhythmic movements of the body.

Highlands people are also industrious, most of whom still live in villages and are predominantly agriculturalists whose very livelihood very depends on their relationship with each other and the land that they have inherited. There are 5 Highlands Provinces in the Southern Highlands, Enga, Western Highlands, Simbu and Eastern Highlands. When you take the scenic Highlands Highway from the coastal port and city of Lae, you reach the Eastern Highlands first, whose capital Goroka enjoys an all year around cool, almost eternal spring-like climate. Goroka is famous for the Asaro mud men of the fertile valley of the same name and the world famous Goroka Show, held in September every year to coincide with PNG’s Independence anniversary on September 16th.

About two hours up the Daulo Pass is the rugged Simbu Province, known for its rough terrain and jazzed limestone mountain tops whose people, stocky warrior farmers, can be seen manoeuvring mountainsides with relative ease on bare foot. Simbu is perhaps best known for the highest mountain on the land in Mt Wilhelm, which at 4509 meters has attracted bush walkers, trekkers and mountaineers from far and wide. You only have to view the guest book at Betty’s Lodge and trout farm, situated at the foot of the mountain, to see where climbers have come from. There are entries from should read from as far away as Israel, Germany, France, Switzerland, Holland, Poland, and the United States of America.

Further up the highway is the vibrant city of Mt Hagen and capital of Western Highlands, a predominantly coffee growing region. Mt Hagen is best known as home to the equally famous Mt Hagen Show, which is held in August every year. Like the Goroka Show, this show is one of PNG’s icon cultural spectacles and it brings together colourful and diverse tribes who partake in a weekend of cultural performances called “singsings.”

The author, Steven Mago is a journalist, travel writer and tourism promoter. He was born in Papua New Guinea but for the time being is living in Sydney. Steven can be contacted on: stevenmago@hotmail.com

The Mälar Valley in Sweden has some of Europe’s most beautiful scenery, with unspoilt forests, lakes and rivers where you can get away from crowds, traffic and all the other pressures of the modern world. Lake Mälaren is the third biggest lake in Sweden and stretches from the capital, Stockholm to around 150 kilometres to the West. The total population in the Mälar Valley is around 1.5 million.

Have you ever been in the Mälar Valley? I suppose not! For most people outside Sweden, the Mälar Valley is still an undiscovered place – it’s one of Sweden’s best-kept secrets. So read and be inspired and then come to the Mälar Valley and experience the real thing!

History: once this area was the power base for the Swedes, from which wealth and power arose. Where Lake Mälaren flows into salt waters, people built a castle as protection from pirates. Birger Jarl decided that a town should surround the castle. The town that was built was named Stockholm. It later became the capital of Sweden until today. Iron production, boat building and farming were the three most important industries. Each of these technologies thrived in central Sweden due to the availability of the resources they were dependent on. Later, these became contributing factors to the Viking expeditions. Based on the archaeological remains of farmsteads, it is thought that there was a great increase in the population in the Mälar valley during the Viking era.

History’s legacy: the long history of the region naturally contributes to its rich cultural environment. To travel in the Mälar Valley is to travel through Swedish history: castles and manors on the shores of Lake Mälaren, rock carvings from the Bronze Age, rune stones from Viking times, medieval churches with beautiful frescoes and much more. The north of the valley is an old mining area, and the history of metal manufacturing can be studied at old works and mines. The cultural heritage of the region is thus both rich in content, and easily accessible. The region has since the Viking Age been a center for trading and transport.

The Connecting Bond: Lake Mälaren was once the natural way to and from the capital, Stockholm, between different parts of the region and between the region and the rest of the world. It still is for the thousands of leisure boats that pass through the Stockholm lock each year. Today the Mälar Valley is well connected: the national roads are many and excellent and there are two airports in the region, Arlanda, the largest, and Västerås, right in the middle of the Mälar Valley.

The Castles in the Mälar Valley: when you come to the Mälar Valley I strongly recommend you to visit some of the castles around Lake Mälaren. All of them are historically interesting and have their own anecdotes. For example Tidö Castle is a real toy palace with its grand toy museum with collections dating back to the 1700s. Also, a young boy Dohna disappeared in the castle at the end of the 1700s aged only four years old. He was never found, but you can still hear him calling….

18 of the castles and manors around Lake Mälaren are members of an association called Mälarslott, the Mälar Castles and all are accessible by land and sea; some of the castles are also hotels. One of these, Sundbyholm’s Castle is in easy reach, on the seaside right in the middle of the Mälar Valley. Skokloster dates from 1654 and is the largest castle with 77 rooms covering almost 2,139 sq.m. It houses a fantastic collection of art, textiles, furniture, weapons, tools and books. The Skokloster Pageant, a folk festival of Swedish history takes place from July 23-27, 2003. Close to the castle is Skokloster Inn & Hotel, one of the hotels we use.

Other activities: the environs of the Mälar Valley offer a range of outdoor activities: it has Europe’s northernmost beech forest, attractive country walks in the woods and by the water. For those seeking a more structured program of activities, there is plenty to choose from – you can play golf – there are 41 golf courses, hike, ride, fish, canoe, bicycle and more.

Peace and Quiet Travel is family-run business located in the Mälar Valley. We specialise in creating tailor made holidays. We use the kind of hotels that we ourselves would want to stay in for a relaxing and refreshing break. Right now we have a special summer 2003 offer. For more details, see our website http://www.peaceandquiet.co.uk or e-mail us at info@peaceandquiet.co.uk.

Nicaragua was colonised by the Spanish and has the old colonial buildings and cobbled streets to show; it has the oldest cathedral in Central America, and Granada is reputed to be the oldest city on the western hemisphere. Nicaragua has also had more than its share of destruction through earthquakes and revolutions. Managua, the capital was hit particularly hard by the 1972 earthquake which pretty much wiped out what was the centre of town.

This tour takes in the “best” of Nicaragua in 10 days. It is not a big country so everything is within easy reach and there is a reasonable bus system. Everyone seems to agree that Ometepe Island is the highlight of Nicaragua, followed by Granada. No one much seems to like Managua, saying it is a bit dodgy. You could do most of this itinerary as day trips from Managua, but the Beetle recommends that you get out of Managua – not such a great place – and stay over in different places.

Day 1: fly into Managua. Managua, the capital of Nicaragua is on the southern shore of Lake Managua. Settle into your hotel/hostel and explore. Managua itself is a bit of a sad city. Despite the new building boom, it is not hard to see that the centre is still astonishingly devastated from the 1972 earthquake, so it a curious place as there is no real centre any more, it is spread all over, wherever funding allows new building. The Intercom hotel is something of a landmark, it is built in the shape of one of the old Mayan pyramids, some consider this as the centre – it was the only building that survived the 1972 earthquake. The lake is brown and has waves and looks like the sea, but it is dirty and not nice. Things to see include the Plaza de la República, the newly renovated cathedral which is now a museum, the Peace Park where you can see the giant lighthouse, and the tank and thousands of guns mummified in spray-on concrete. Near the cathedral is the grave of Carlos Fonseca, the founder of the Sandinistas, the Palcio Nacional, and the new Casa Presedencial. There are several museums, including a Museum of the Revolution. There are some places to swim, in the lagunas that are volcanic crater lakes. People tend not to stay in Managua, they usually head straight out to Granada – note Granada not Leon. There is a good bus network though, so getting around is easy. If you have time, take a morning bus to the Laguna de Xiloá, a crater lake that is a popular swimming spot about 20km north west of Managua and have a swim. Return to Managua.

Day 2: do a day trip to Leon. Take the bus to Leon, north of Managua and not far. Leon allegedly has Central America's oldest cathedral that took over 200 years to rebuild. It has some large paintings of the 12 Stations of the Cross and also houses the tomb of Rubén Darío, the poet. There are monuments to the revolution and Sandanista murals all over Leon. Leon is smaller than Granada and will not take more than a half day to look around, have some lunch and return to Managua. You can wander the streets and admire the colonial churches and the whitewashed adobe buildings with red roofs. There’s plenty of info about the 1978-79 revolution too for those interested in some of Nicaragua’s past. If you find, like the Beetle, that there is not a lot to keep you in Leon, then take the bus back to Managua and then on to Granada.

Day 3: Take a bus from Managua to El Trapiche, 17km southeast of Managua. El Trapiche is a place where large outdoor pools have been formed by near by natural springs. It is quite pretty as there are gardens and restaurants. Have lunch and have a splash. You may meet some tourists here! From here, continue to another 5kms southeast to the Massaya Volcano Nat Park. It is only 23kms south east of Managua and also 20 mins drive from Granada. The volcano is still active and you can see (and smell!) the steam coming out of it. There are some hot springs, the usual sort of volcano stuff. There's also a big market at Massaya where you can buy hammocks etc. When you have had a look around, take the bus to Granada and overnight there.

Day 4: Granada is only around 45kms away from Managua. It lies at the base of the Mombacho volcano and is on Lake Nicaragua so it has a constant cool breeze. Granada has cobbled streets and you will see lots of Spanish style colonial architecture, the cathedral, the Colon Park and Mombacho. It took the Beetle less than a day to visit and explore Granada, although she did not go on the lake. Some say that Granada is the oldest city in the western hemisphere. If you are a bird watcher, there are over 350 volcanic islands in Lake Managua. The islands that people visit are called Las Islets de Nicaragua where you can see nesting cormorants etc. You can go kayaking here if that is your thing.

Day 5: take a trip out onto Lake Nicaragua and visit some of the islands. San Pablo has a small fortress built by the Spaniards to protect against British pirates in the 18th century, Isla Zapatera is a national park and has some old stone statues. Isla del Muerto also has tombs and rock carvings to see.

Day 6 and 7: From Granada take the bus to San Jorge, near Rivas it’s about 4 hours by bus and take the ferry out to visit Ometepe Island, the largest freshwater island in the world (complete with fresh water sharks!) Ometepe is the highlight for most people visiting Nicaragua. Once there, you can lie around on the beaches or if you are feeling slightly more energetic, you can climb up Volcano Maderas. Take the bus from San Jorge to San Juan del Sur on the Pacific coast.

Day 8, 9,10: laze on the beach at San Juan del Sur. Day 10 take the bus back up to Managua to fly back home.

Alternative: there is a five-hour boat trip down the Río Escondido to Bluefields, on the Caribbean coast. Most travellers reckon that this is not worth it and the Beetle has not seen many good reports about Bluefields….but, the Corn Islands in the Caribbean just off Bluefields are worth the trip. To get there, the best way is to fly from Managua – around $100 return. Little Corn Island in particular gets some rave reviews for sunning and swimming.

The Santorini Ferry or as it is lovingly called Mama Tanzania, is one of those amazing things that can only be found in Tanzania. This boat is an experience in itself. The Santorini ferry is a 1960’s Greek cruiser and is run by a Greek Crew. It is in good nick for its age and is certainly the most upper-class thing ever to hit Mtwara.

The boat takes roughly 18 hours crossing time. You leave Mtwara lunchtime on Friday and are in Dar-es-Salaam by the morning. On return you leave Tuesday lunchtime and arrive Mtwara Wednesday morning. There are five classes, A-F ranging from class A at 40,500 Tsh to class F at 11,500 Tsh. Class A, B and C all have cabins although only class A has an en-suite bathroom! If you are in the top three classes you have use of the two restaurants one which serves Swahili food which will set you back about 2000 Tsh and is self-service canteen style and another which serves European food and is waiter service. This cost me about 8,000 Tsh but I did have three courses and a salad, what can I say Mikindani makes you hungry! And a good bowl of mushroom soup followed by spaghetti bolognaise followed by fruit salad was a well-deserved treat, I thought! Volunteers must be warned, local eating habits do not apply here and attacking food hyena style is not advised, believe me, I know! When a man wearing a T-shirt saying “ABIBAS”(ADIDAS) looks at you in disbelief you are really put in your place.

Despite this you are made to feel quite comfortable in the top three classes on this mystery boat. The bar is well equipped with two satellite TV’s and and a DJ, as I suppose you could call him – the man who bangs out tunes for the entire journey. This is needed, as the majority of passengers use this room just to keep their bags in, this is a style adopted by our very own Emmanuel who managed to make it the whole 18 hours propped up at the bar so I was told by the stewardess ladies on board who all remember Mr Casanova very well! This is a lively place, not for the faint hearted. If you suffer seasickness or hate rap avoid this bar like the plague. I seemed to know a lot of people and like anywhere in Tanzania everyone is related somehow!

Class D and E are made up of rows of armchair seats inside with a small counter to by snacks and drinks. All classes A- E are air-conditioned. Class F is a plastic seat outside that runs down the hallways of both sides of the boat. On the top deck there are benches covered by a canopy. In rough weather these seats can be a bit difficult and on the top deck is very windy and the coldest I’ve ever been outside in Tanzania. If you want to cool down, clear your head and get a wonderful view of the stars then this is the place to be. All in all I would recommend using the Santorini as a reliable way to travel from Dar-es-Salaam to Mtwara. Especially for future volunteers, it is a cheaper alternative to flying and the 1960s décor is bound to keep you amused!

Update: our friends at Trade Aid tell us that the Santorini has been pulled from this route. We do not yet know if this is permanent or not.

For more information about Trade Aid, volunteers and their work, please visit their website www.mikindani.com