Iris, a British lady of considerable character and pluck, is on a 23 week overland expedition from Quito in Ecuador to Caracas in Venezuela. After this, she plans to do a 3-month voluntary placement in Ecuador, and then visit Central America for another overland trip between Panama City and Mexico City, ending up with perhaps another 2-month voluntary placement somewhere in South America again. This amazing journey will take Iris one year. Here is an extract from Iris’ journey notebook.

15 of our overland gang left us in Ushaia – not because they had come to the end of their trip but because they wanted to spend more time in Ushaia and so, at their own expense opted to stay on in hotels longer and to fly up to Buenos Aires (BA) in order to spend more time there as well. They would then join up with us in BA when we arrived there after spending five days travelling overland.

The remainder of us, 8 including our drivers/tour leaders, then travelled up to BA in a marathon 3,000 km plus journey, so that most of our time was spend on the road, with only two short visits to a petrified forest and a penguin colony to break the monotony and to give us a bit of extra comfort, we opted to drive further on one particular day so that we could spend a night in a hotel! The rest of the time was spent in rough camps along the way!

The petrified forest was in the middle of nowhere. It was very low key, just a park warden looking after a solitary outpost, guarding relics from some 5 million years ago and which they considered were the remains of an enormous forest full of gigantic trees which had suddenly and catastrophically been buried after several natural disasters and which had miraculously been uncovered again in subsequent earth movements. It comprised some enormous trunks lying on the surface of the ground over an extensive area and looked to this lay person’s eye like the remains from some ancient logging ground where the chain saws had been removed and the trunks just left fragmented where they lay. But they were of course now turned to stone. We arrived in the evening at about 1800 and had about an hour to walk round and look at these relics, but unfortunately none of us could really appreciate them because we had such little information as to why they were considered so significant. There was a museum housing fauna and flora of the region and depicting the course of events over several 100 million years but as everything was in Spanish and only one sparse leaflet in English, it was rather disappointing that we did not have a suitable guide to explain it all to us.

We stayed that night in a really rough camp site, again, in the middle of nowhere, which seemed frequented more by roaming labourers from local roadworks rather than the normal tourist place. We lit up a barbecue and ate good steaks that night, all the food having been purchased in bulk before leaving Ushaia.

The next day we pressed on, without pause to a place called Rio Gallegos, eating our lunch on the truck. We prepared it too in the truck on the move. Because the truck was so empty with just 6 instead of the usual 22 people in the back, it bumped and rattled and lurched over the rough roads perhaps more than it would have done if it had been fully laden, and so some accidents did occur with chopped salad etc, as we attempted to fill baguettes for the lunch-time snack!) But Rio Gallegos, gave us a welcome respite from camping as we stayed in a hotel that night and so had the luxury of beds and en suite showers! We went for a meal soon after booking in, and chose the restaurant on the other side of the road to the hotel, where family groups were eating three course meals at midnight! This is the norm in Argentina, as people tend to go out to eat in the late evening, but not before 2130 and even later!

Our next excursion was to a penguin colony that was situated near a place called Camarones, where we camped for the night close to the beach. We spent just an hour and a half at the colony. Penguins breed there and apparently stay for three years, growing up, before making any sea journeys. The whole area was full of young penguins, some already moulted, others younger and still covered in baby fur and all sorts of others in the in-between state looking as if they had all rescued their coats from moth infested wardrobes! However, although it was great to walk among them (along a designated footpath from which we were not allowed to stray) the penguins ignored this. They were allowed to stray on to the footpath and so we had a few very interesting encounters, as they are inquisitive birds, totally unfazed by humans walking around, and so they would pause and swivel their heads almost through a full 180 degrees to try and focus on us and work out who we were!

These two visits were the sum total of sightseeing on the 5 days it took to travel in our overland truck from Ushaia to BA and so we arrived in that capital city ready for a rest and some comfortable beds!

Next Month, Buenos Aires and Uruguay.

If you’d like to contact Iris, whether to wish her luck with her trip or to ask questions about her itinerary and places visited, I am sure she would like to hear from you. She can be contacted on: irisej2002@yahoo.co.uk

New York meetings are having a summer break, Laurie and New York meetings will be back in September.

For details of forthcoming meetings email: newyork@globetrotters.co.uk.

New York meetings are held at The Wings Theatre, 154 Christopher Street (btw Greenwich St and Washington St), to the right of Crunch Fitness, in the Archive on the first Saturday of each month (except August) at 4 pm.

Some more travelling medical hints and tips for people on the move. If you find yourself under the weather, there is almost always an alternative remedy to finding the local doctor – but if in doubt, seek proper medical advice.

· Sore Throat?? Just mix 1/4 cup of vinegar with 1/4 cup of honey and take 1 tablespoon six times a day. The vinegar kills the bacteria.

· Cure urinary tract infections with alka-seltzer. Just dissolve two tablets in a glass of water and drink it at the onset of the symptoms. Alka-Seltzer begins eliminating urinary tract infections almost instantly even though the product was never been advertised for this use.

· Hard trekking? Got toenail fungus? Get rid of unsightly toenail fungus by soaking your toes in Listerine mouthwash. The powerful antiseptic leaves your toenails looking healthy again.

For information on Ontario meetings, please contact Svatka Hermanek: shermanek@schulich.yorku.ca or Bruce Weber: tel. 416-203-0911 or Paul Webb: tel. 416-694-8259.

Meetings are held on the third Friday of January, March, May, September and November. Usually at the Woodsworth Co-op, Penthouse, 133, Wilton Street in downtown Toronto at 8.00 p.m.

U. S. Soldiers Home, Washington: during a century of travel (well 78 years!) both in and out of service I have travelled to over 150 countries (I count both North and South Dakota as countries) and for some reason have jotted signs and happenings that I thought funny at the time (and now wonder why). So here is the perfect opportunity to share some of my anecdotes.

Indian newspaper had an ad for a men’s tailor: “Clothier to the male ego.”

One traveller to save weight and space carries only three black socks. Not three pair of black socks but three individual black socks and washes one sock out each night. (Ok so it is me!)

Instead of buying new clothes and shoes to travel some people wear their old clothes they have broken in and when they get dirty take them to one of the many reasonable tailors in India, Penang, Thailand etc and have duplicated or design their own travel clothes. In India I had them make trousers with many pockets, hidden pockets, a strap in the back so trousers could be hung on a nail. I was in Safari phase then so had shirts made out of same material again with lots of pockets.

I met an Australian that became native fifteen minutes after arrival in India. He had flimsy white cotton trousers and shirt made and shaved his head like a monk. I wore a diaper and carried a begging bowl. We both said we did not know the other. I used to joke that Air India in economy did not serve food. They gave you a begging bowl and you had to go to First class and beg for food.

One guy took a suit he liked but had a cigarette hole in it to Hong Kong to have duplicated. They did right down to the cigarette hole. I lie a lot.

One time, just before I got off the plane at Tokyo airport, I ripped the back of my pants and my rear end was exposed. I did not have an extra pair of trousers with me in the plane and I did not want to go through passport control etc with my rear exposed for fear they would not let me in the country so although it was a very hot sweltering day I put on my raincoat to hide my rear end. I got some strange looks but was not stopped. I since always carry an extra pair of trousers in the cabin of the plane with me. I think I had had the trousers made in Hong Kong and if they use Chinese thread they rip easily. Take American thread with you if having clothes made in Hong Kong. And hope they use it. I had shoes made in Hong Kong and walking down the street the soles fell off. When I went to a cobbler he told me the soles had been glued on and the heat undid the glue.

Digressing somewhat, on a trip to South Africa I was made an honorary member of both MOTH and COMRADES clubs. Both are veteran’s organizations. The MOTH club in Johannesburg is near train station. MOTH stands for Military Order of Tin Hats, which started in World War I. Smaller clubs of MOTHs are called Shellholes and their commander (no matter what his name) is always called Old Bill.

In India I was made an honorary Sikh. A Sikh Lt Colonel (a lawyer) in the Indian Army introduced me to the five Ks of Sikhdom. A Sikh and I think most of them have Singh for part of their name meaning lion has five marks of a Sikh all beginning with letter K. The five Kikars. Kish, long uncut hair that they never cut worn under a turban. Kanka, the wooden small comb. Kackkor, long modest boxer like shorts. Kara, the steel bracelet and Karpan, a small ceremonial sword. As my hair was short I guess I was only 4/5 of an honorary Sikh.

A Captain in the Indian Army brought five yards of material, which is what it takes for a turban, and wound it very tight around my head so it would not come undone before I got back to the States. Although Sikhs can and do wear turbans in the Army, he did not wear one. The Sikhs seemed to be on the same wavelength as me especially the ones in the military and they were a good source of information for me.

I asked if Indians would be insulted if they saw me wearing a turban in Amritsar (I don’t usually go native.) I was told they would not even notice and would not be insulted. It was easier to wear than to carry back to my hotel. There were few places selling beer but I found one and the bar tender told me he had seen me wearing the turban on the street and had prevented others from throwing stones at me. Joking! He said I looked very handsome in the turban. He knew how to get a tip.

No matter where you ask a rickshaw driver in Amritsar to take you they take you to the Golden Temple. Actually I wanted to go to a circus I spotted. The showgirls in the circus were completely covered in what looked like winter underwear: long johns. The circus did not have much, but it had a rhinoceros. He did not do much. It cost me $3.60 for the cloth for the turban. I don’t know where it is now.

I went to visit Indiri Ghandi’s (former leader of India) home, now a museum. She was Nehru’s daughter and no relation to Mahatma Ghandi. She had married a man named Ghandi. This was in Delhi. Indiri Ghandi had sent in troops to quell a riot at Golden Temple in Amritsar and a Sikh (not me) assassinated her as she was walking in the garden of her home. He was one of her disloyal guards. There were signs in the garden as to what you could not do such as no spitting. At the Golden Temple in Amritsar Sikhs immerse themselves in the water moat surrounding the temple. There were many memorial plaques to soldiers at the Golden Temple complex such as “In memory of those brave soldiers killed in action in 1965.” The Poona Horse Regiment with deep reverence and loving gratitude from the Bengal Snappers Bengal Engineer Group Centre Boorhee 1978. Lt Col H. S. Samedhi and all ranks.

Next month, Mac discusses Hong Kong.

If you would like to contact Mac, he can be e-mailed on: macsan400@yahoo.com

Globetrotters meeting on August 9th

The Texas Branch of the Globetrotters Club will meet August 9th 2003 at the New Braunfels Public Library – note back to old location.

If you like independent, adventuresome, fun, daring, exciting, “off the beaten path” travel, this club is for you. Our meeting begins at 2 P.M. Come early so you won't be late! Enjoy handouts, travel talk time, and door prizes!

Dates of future meetings: September 13

For more information about the Texas Branch or if you would like to help Christina, please contact texas@globetrotters.co.uk or register for email updates at our website (click here) or call Christina at 830-620-5482.

The Beetle recently visited Munich for shell repairing and discovered that it is a really nice, friendly, pretty and interesting city, easy to get around with some surprising touches – beautiful architecture, outdoor markets, fountains and sculptures.

How to get there: the airport at Munich is vast and well served. From London you can take Lufthansa and British Airways. It’s a short hop – around 1 ¾ hours. To get into the city centre, there are two S-Bahns – the slow one, the S1 and the faster S8. Either journey takes less than an hour. Tickets costs 9 euros and can be used on your next journey to complete your destination, e.g. the bus. You can buy tickets on the platform or from the airport information counter. The S-Bahns are excellent, cheap, clean, completely safe and frequent. Both go directly from the airport via many stations around the city to the central train station where you can make your connection with one of the other many S and U-Bahns.

When to go: well, the Octoberfest jumps out as a good time to visit Munich, which takes place over four weekends in September/October. Otherwise, any time, although July is very, very hot! There are good Christmas markets in November and December. There is almost always a large festival taking place in Munich during any given month.

What is there to see and do: lots and lots. You can stay in the city centre and easily spend a weekend prowling around the baroque churches, museums, art galleries, the town hall, theatres, outdoor fresh produce market, the Residenz, botanical gardens, the Olympic stadium and the English Gardens. One of the oddest sights was muscle-bound tanned men surfing on an artificially made wave of the Eisbach, about 5m wide in the English Garden. For major label shopping, all of the posh shops are rather conveniently concentrated on one street, Maximillian Strasse, otherwise, there’s plenty of high street shopping to do around Marienplaz and some wonderful off beat shops in Munich’s back streets.

Is there more to do than just a weekend? If you want! You can take self guided walking tours around the city, or join one of many walking tours, run in many different languages, or alternatively, there are a variety of day trips that you can do, solo or in an organised group, including one to Dachau, one of many Bavarian palaces, or even the Alps.

Food and Drink? Large portions seem to be the norm. If you like pork, you’ll be very happy here. There is a wide range of restaurants from the usual fast food outlets to upmarket French, Italian, Thai and local Bavarian speciality restaurants. The Hofbrauhaus may be a little touristy, but it’s well worth a visit for a beer and some local food if you are strolling around the English Garden.

Prices? Eating out is generally very reasonably priced, but hotels can be a little pricey. Search on the internet first and contact the tourism agency.

Language: don’t worry if you don’t speak German, a few basic words go a long way, but most people you will encounter speak some English, and menus written in English are widely available.

The UK Foreign Office has asked British tour operators to stop arranging holidays to Burma because of the ruling regime's record on human rights.

In a letter to ABTA, the Association of British Tour Agents, the UK’s Foreign Office minister, said that there were “compelling reasons” not to holiday in Burma.

He cited the use of forced labour by the Burmese Junta, who have been used to help build some of Burma’s tourism infrastructure and that some communities have been forcibly relocated to make way for tourism-related developments.

Recently, the military regime stepped up its actions against democracy groups in a campaign of violence and intimidation and has arrested the democratically elected Aung San Suu Kyi, leader of the National League for Democracy.

ABTA in its turn said that it left commercial and moral decisions on holiday destinations to its members: “It's up to our members to make that decision,” said an ABTA official. “It would be different if the Foreign Office were advising people not to go to Burma because it was dangerous.”

The Globetrotters e-news recently reported that award winning Kuoni, has withdrawn from Burma following the lobbying of Burma Campaign UK.

Do you have a view? Would you travel to Burma, or would boycott it? Write in and tell the Beetle your views: beetle@globetrotters.co.uk

Padmassana went travelling around Kyushu in June/July time. Here is the second of three extracts from his travel journal.

I left Beppu in more torrents of rain after a night of storms and went to Miyazaki. Miyazaki was a staging post on the way to Kagoshima and is famous for the Haniwa figures, clay statues that were found in burial mounds, similar to the Xian terracotta warriors. These were all items the Shogun would need to take with him to the other world. Some are funny, some threatening, some are mysterious, and include boats, carriages and horses. I found a local moggie asleep in one of the carriages, taking shelter from the rain!

After finding my nice hotel I decided to go to Heidawa Park and promptly got lost. There is a Peace Tower in he park, built in 1940. It started to hail so I ended up sheltering under a bridge. There was a Mini Mart near by so I went in for a sausage on a stick and found I was actually very near the park.

From Miyazaki, I did the 2 hour ride down to Kagoshima. I was immediately impressed with Kagoshima – it is a lovely city, has a very nice Ryokan, a KFC and a McDonalds all within a short walk, so I wont be starving!

It’s now lovely and warm and the sun occasionally comes out. The Nakazono Ryokan in Kagoshima was superb, tatami mat floor with futon. The owner is very knowledgeable about the city, such as knowing where the free internet cafes are and says the weather is going to be good for the next few days! Had lunch by the port looking towards the volcano Sakurajima.

I took the 24 hour ferry from Kagoshima, a 5 minute boat trip ($3.50, £2 return) across the sea between Sakurajima and the volcano. Once there, you take the tour bus that picks you up from where the ferry docks. It runs twice a day and costs 1,700 Yen, about £10 or $15. I did a tour, 10 Japanese people and me! The guide didn’t speak any English so she gave me a book with numbers. She would be gabbling away in Japanese, then she’d shout “Number 21” and I’d read the book while trying to look out of the window! Really enjoyed the island, where I saw all the different layers of lava and the lava fields which you can see from the viewing platforms is in wave shapes. The tour includes a village that has been buried and a ceramics workshop where you can buy pottery glazed with volcanic ash.

I also went to Ibusuki to try out sand bathing. You go upstairs, pay 900 yen about £6, and are given a big cotton bath robe and walk across the beach which is so hot on the feet to lie down in a body shaped hole already dug. You are then covered in this volcanic steaming sand for 20 minutes. After this, you feel nice and warm, but don’t do as I did and go and wash your toes in the sea, because it is too hot! Instead you wash yourself off under the tap carefully placed for visitors to clean off. It is supposed to be good for you!

If you would like to contact Padmassana to ask him about his time in Japan, he can be e-mailed on: Padmassana. A good web resource, says Padmassana is: http://www.seejapan.co.uk/fseedo.html