Michelle writes: I felt compelled to write about my second visit to The Gambia, it was all so different and held so many new experiences for me than from my first visit back in February this year. I also appear to have 'dodged' the bumsters – as I got to know and befriend a few the first visit – hey life is hard they need to live yeh! And you fail to mention poverty in Gambia – as a 'developing country' in your news letter! I appreciate bumsters can be annoying – I just tend to say 'no abaracca' (thank you) and emphasise I'm staying at Kololi compound like a Gambian and they leave me alone!

Yes, I stayed at a compound/lodge (£6 per night) and was no 5 star hotel – but if travellers want to experience The Gambia, what better way than to live the true Gambian experience? Ok sometimes it is a trickle from the cold water shower, the electricity is on 50% of the time, the two ring gas cooker is outside, and there’s a flea bitten dog guarding the gates to the compound..but hey my Gambian friends can visit – they are not excluded as they were when I stayed on a complex. I'd also like to mention the compound like the one mentioned below was moderately clean enough!

The benefits of befriending Gambian people whether they are bumsters or taxi drivers or people from my friend Fakeba's compound – and they do not have the luxury of a toilet or running water there (water from the well in buckets) – or adequate schools for the children – (a tin hut!) is sharing experience. One of the best true experiences was sharing Koriteh holiday – the end of Ramadam with 14 adults and 10 children all living in one compound (about 8 one bedroomed houses) and sharing together excellent food from 4 large bowls and green tea. The children so nice and happy with no toys dressed in their Sunday best, the women worked so hard to make the meal. And other children and friends all come around from other compounds..is sooo nice.

So I have my best soul mate Fakeba to show me around – I am charged as a Gambian not as a tourist..and my money is going into the local economy and not to the 'middle man' in an hotel! This cuts my costs down by at least 50%. So try the market in Serrekunda – I feel I was the only white person there – but food shopping is much cheaper than the supermarket – and as fresh – though the meat market was something else! (Very hot with flies and smelled!) though the food my friends cooked for me after – wow! So I return in kind..it is not hard, what I can save I can give – especially to the children. Please don’t ever go to the Gambia without some clothes for them or stationery for their school (special mention for Karin Nursery School, Serrekunda). Or why not give stationery to the children in a compound who do not go to school – less than 50% of the children can read or write.

So my new experiences apart from those I mention above? Seeing dolphins coming back from St James Island – look out for them, and its a wonderful swim there! Seeing the women going out on their small canoes to pick oysters at Lamin Lodge.. my favourite place.. Seeing monitor lizards at Bijilo (monkey park). I'd also recommend going to Brufut fishing village – I rode by bike – but I’m sure there are easier ways to get there – saw cows being herded on the beach and the boats were so colourful – is sooo beautiful.

I would say more about less beautiful encounters I witnessed between my friends and the police…. but I may get censored!

I'd like to give a special mention to Kotu Point beach bar..one of the best and only bars that does not discriminate against Gambians trying to make a living by selling things.. or 'hanging out' there… the views are wonderful as are my friends and the music there – and especially 'bongo man' who will teach anyone to play! I’d also like to say to all you tourist not happy with Gambia – please remember it is a developing country that does not have the same access to health care, sanitation, education, social security and employment we in the west are privileged to have.. the culture is different – celebrate it along with all the similarities of humanity we all share! Share a smile on the smiley coast yeah – it is nice to be nice! I'm going back for more smiles next March… and especially looking forward to meeting my friend Fakeba's family who are Mandinka 180 miles up the river Gambia:)

Globetrotter meetings have temporarily ceased until further notice due to a bereavement in Christina’s family. If you can help Christina resurrect the Texas meetings, as she would really appreciate some help, please contact Christina on texas@globetrotters.co.uk'

For more information about the Texas Branch: please contact texas@globetrotters.co.uk or register for email updates at our website (click here) or call Christina at 830-620-5482

If anybody would like to enquire about meetings or help Christina, please contact her on: texas@globetrotters.co.uk

This is the first in a series of trip reports sent to the Beetle by Globetrotter Steve who is travelling around South America and Easter Island, the lucky chap! So, if you are planning trip to Suth America or are interested in knowing more about it, you may find Steve’s trip reports of interest.

Life has it's ups and downs. On Tuesday I started the journey with a tour to the Altiplano National Parks. There were just three of us in the group, myself and two Germans. We went first to the local farmer’s market to stock up on fresh vegetables and fruit for picnics on the trip. Then we headed inland for a view of ancient petroglyphs showing herdsmen and llamas. There was a tomato farm nearby where we bought fresh produce, exceptionally huge tomatoes.

The next call was a Hari Krishne monastery where we had lunch and then started to climb. It was the main road to La Paz and there were some heavy lorries on the road, one of which had started to roll backwards and had come a cropper. We called at a fortified site over 2000 years old where the entrance to a fertile valley was guarded by a series of semi circular walls. The countryside was now very dry and we climbed through an area of cactus found only in that area of Chile. Near Socompa we went for a short walk down an Inca roadway and we started to see the first wild guanaco and llamas in the fields. We entered the village of Sacompa and looked at the very old church with its squat detached tower. From there we climbed to Putre where we were to stop for the evening. Unfortunately for me I was unable to eat the evening meal as I was feeling light-headed and wasn’t hungry. I had a very poor night’s sleep and was sick in the morning. Nevertheless I set off with the group up to Lauca National Park. There were spectacular views of the volcano across the lake and vicuña to be seen. The group went for a walk but I wasn't feeling well enough to go and so stayed with the vehicle. In fact I slept most of the time they were away. When they returned I was unable to keep fluids down. We returned to Pucalpa as planned but once there the group leader took me to a doctor who said my blood pressure was dangerously low because of the altitude and I needed to travel down to sea level immediately. They tested my blood pressure before oxygen, while breathing oxygen through a mask and then again after the mask was taken off. It immediately fell to very low levels. And so the tour leader drove me down to Arica immediately and the tour carried on without me.

The next day my appetite returned a little. I got a bus to Iquique and booked into a hotel for a couple of nights there. Iquique is a very strange city. It is set at the foot of cliffs that must be above 3000 feet high. An enormous sand dune extends into the Southern part of the city. The old downtown area was very run down and poor, but right next door are two large sandy bays and a lot of quite wealthy looking seaside developments – a casino, sailing club and smart hotels. In the old town is one long street of big houses built when the city was wealthy from the nitrate trade. This extended from an Opera House where Caruso sang to the sea. The whole street is listed and the buildings, built of timber shipped from Oregon in the 19th century, are being restored. It has all been pedestrianised with timber side walks, Victorian era lamp posts and street furniture installed and a new horse tram route is being constructed. Apart from these features it was quite a dull place and so yesterday I boarded another bus and spent four hours twisting down the spectacular coast with cliffs and mountains on one side and the Pacific on the other but nothing growing and no settlement. The road then turned inland past the Santa Elena Nitrate plant and an enormous copper mine to Calama where I changed bus and travelled the last hour to San Pedro, through the desert, as the sun set and the mountains glowed in oranges, reds and gold.

As the bus pulled in I saw one of the Germans who had been on the National Parks tour and chatted to him. I found myself a pleasant hotel and then went out for a good dinner in a restaurant with live musicians where I bumped into a retired Irish teacher from Maidstone who I had met in Arica.

After the problems of the Andes, San Pedro proved a welcome change. I took it easy on the first day, just going to the wonderful museum. I chose the same time as a SAGA group. What has happened to adventure travel? One member of the group was so overweight she wasn’t able to manage the whole museum tour and commented that the thin gold used for face masks looked as though it had been made to cover chocolate.

The next day I was feeling more adjusted to the altitude and walked out to a pre-Inca fort 3km from town. I arrived shortly after the SAGA party. The fort is built on a steep hillside where the river leaves a gorge and forms the oasis. The stonework was interesting, similar if cruder than Inca work. There was a maze of rooms, passages and who knows what leading up to an excellent viewpoint. The SAGA group didn't get there. The area has an interesting history. The Incas were only dominant for 60 years. The local people just submitted to them so were not defeated. However when news came that the Spanish had defeated the Incas the community leaders decided they weren't going to be dictated to about changing their names to match a new not understood religion. They therefore rebelled and retreated to their 11th Century fort. The Spanish, with horses and assisted by some local antagonistic neighbours defeated them in short time and executed the leaders. San Pedro de Atacama then became the sleepy backwater it remained until recently.

Next day, feeling full of confidence, I joined a tour to the Salar de Atacame to see the birds. The Salar looked like thawing snow, a grubby white and crunchy underfoot, with surface water in places. In the distance the distinct shape of the flamingos could be seen although even with strong binoculars you couldn't tell what species of the three found there were in sight. When they flew they looked even pinker and had an unusual Concorde profile with the wings far back along their bodies. In the distance Volcano Lascar steamed. It erupts every four years, the last time being 2000! It seems it throws out ash, not lava, and the winds always take the ash into Argentina. So that was alright.

The next stop was the isolated village of Socaire which had a very small stone church and tower. The church had become unsafe and so the community built a replica on a new town square but were now repairing the original. Around were terraces used for growing vegetables but slowly going out of use. Local men work in the Lithium extraction plant at the Salire and so the local economy is becoming cash based.

From the village we ascended to the deep blue Lakes of Miscanti and Miñques at above12,000 feet. We walked along a ridge from one to the other with stunning views and then back close to the shore. It was an important site for the flamingos to breed. They’re poor parents producing one chick which they will abandon if disturbed. It was the breeding season so we had to keep back from the lake shore. I was pleased to manage the walking without breathlessness or losing lunch!

The final stop was the village of Tocanao which is at the end of a gorge with a stream flowing through it. The stream is used for irrigating figs, quince, grapes and other fruit. The contrast between the arid highlands and the deep green of the valley was outstanding. It reminded me of Dovedale with surreal colour enhancement. Walking along the valley was a real pleasure after the heat and exertions of the rest of the day.

San Pedro de Atacama has an odd mix of visitors. There is a 'hippy' Chilean element, European gap year students, young European Professionals and elderly Islington or Baden Baden types having an alternative retirement holiday. The restaurants are a little more expensive than usual in Chile but have some adventurous combinations on the menu and the wine is delicious.

Well, I moved on to Antofagasta. Antofagasta is lack lustre. It's just a busy city and a bit down at heel. I decided to spend half a day looking at an industrial museum a little out of town. At the bus station this morning there were several ticket windows with bored staff sitting behind them and closed signs firmly in place. I went to the enquiry desk where three men were assisting one customer. After a while one broke away to see me. Can I have a ticket to Bacquedano I asked. I was told to get on the bus already in the terminal quickly and buy a ticket from the conductor. After half an hour the bus left. (Why the hurry?) “Bacquedano” I said to the conductor. “Calama?” he replied. “No, Baquedano.” I said. “Maria Elena?” he said. “No. Baquedano,” I said firmly and pointed to it in heavy print in my guide book. “Ah, Baquedano” he said, “$1 000”. I paid.

The museum was hopeless, uncared for, vandalised and derelict. I nosed around, did a sketch and went top the village for lunch. I had a tasty empenada and a cola for about a pound and then asked where was the best place to get a bus back to Antofagasta. The cafe owner said they were every half hour and you could flag them down infront of the cafe. He would bring me a chair so I could sit in the shade. As he was telling me this a bus went past. I sat in the shade for an hour before the next bus came. I waved. The driver and conductor waved back and drove past in a half empty bus. I decided to walk up to the police check point at the entry to town were all buses and trucks have to stop. After half an hour of standing in the early afternoon heat a bus came and I got on. He then stopped and picked someone else up outside the cafe where I had been sitting half an hour earlier.

Back in town I felt I deserved a coffee and lemon pie. After quite a while the waiter returned with the coffee but said there was no lemon pie. I’m going to treat myself to a nice sea food dinner and white wine. Wish me luck.

Next Steve goes to Easter Island.

If you enjoy writing, enjoy travelling, why not write for the free monthly Globetrotters e-newsletter! The Beetle would love to hear from you: your travel stories, anecdotes, jokes, questions, hints and tips, or your hometown or somewhere of special interest to you. Over 8,000 people currently subscribe to the Globetrotter e-news.

To see your story in cyber print, e-mail the Beetle with your travel experiences, hints and tips or questions up to 750 words, together with a couple of sentences about yourself and a contact e-mail address to Beetle@globetrotters.co.uk

We are sorry to say that Mac is not very well, but he is still e-mailing strong and recently sent the Beetle a collection of travel tips based on several trawls of travel websites. Here are some of the tips Mac has garnered:

• 1. Put wallet in breast pocket of shirt and then put another shirt over it. Me: might want to have a second more accessible wallet to hand to any potential robber
• 2. One traveller wrote that he kept two thirds of his cash in a pouch by his underwear
• 3. Another person wrote in to suggest this: you get old white undies, create a fake crap stain in the appropriate place and lay over your valuables

And here are some items that travellers have listed as being most glad they took: Gortex jacket, universal sink plug, nalgene bottle, toilet bag, pocket knife and camera, hiking type boots, backpack with pull-up handles and wheels, travel pillow, toothfloss, Pitzi headlight (a couple mentioned this), Ortlied folding bucket (a laundry bucket, bearing service bucket, and hat all in one).

Nick O Neill writes in BootsNall.com some good advice. Mac says that he stole his name Travel Nutter from Nick. He evidently has travelled for years. Some ideas I gained from Nick: when you shower pin your money belt with a safety pin to your towel. (I don’t know about that, I am so forgetful, I would probably leave the shower room without my towel or the money belt attached to it!)

On the subject of backpacks, Nick says he prefers a simple pack without 75 pockets and straps. He takes a medium sized pack that doesn’t encourage me to pack too much. Beetle: I have a side zipped Lowe Alpine pack that doubles up as a holdall that looks a bit less back packer-ish for those odd occasions when checking into somewhere a little more up market. Whatever backpack you use, try to get one with a zip cover that hides away all of the handles as these can get stuck in airport conveyor belts etc.

Nick says he has used an extra long North Face sleeping bag for over a decade. Mac asks, does he own stock? Mac says he uses a hollow filled bag while heavier than a down bag, it will retain heat when wet.

Nick says that he carries three $l00 bills in his money belt (the one fastened to a towel). He says he has even been able to use them in a shack in the Himalayas.

Back to Mac: travellers who have had some military service might want to check out the overseas military clubs that are equivalent to the American Legion and Veterans of Foreign Wars etc. In Australia and New Zealand and Western Samoa they are RSL Clubs. I checked in at Cairns, told them a little bit about myself, where I had travelled etc and asked if they knew where the Catholic Church was, the time of Mass etc. and if they knew any reasonable place to stay and eat, asked about local bus transportation, what I should see etc. They made me an honorary member of their organization for the time of my stay in Australia.

In South Africa they are MOTH clubs (military order of tin hats which started in WWI) and Comrade Clubs (British oriented.) Again, I was made an honorary member and even invited to some of the members’ homes. They like to learn about you and you like to learn about them. In the MOTH clubs the commander is always called Old Bill no matter what his actual name is.

In Western Samoa, the commander of their RSL was an American working in Western Samoa. I asked how he got to be commander of this foreign club. He laughed and said he was about the only one of its members that had been in the service, the rest were associate members. Sometimes these clubs in some places to keep them going take associate members without any military service. Most of them are very hospitable and good sources of information and kind of a security blanket. Mac

The Athletic Clubs and other clubs in some of the countries when you show them your passport will let you eat there and use their facilities.

If you would like to contact Mac, he is happy to answer e-mails: macsan400@yahoo.com

A few days holiday to use and the hunt was on for a cheap flight to a not too far distant city that I had yet to explore. The Internet came up with a £50 flight to Copenhagen, so I hit the buttons on the PC and the next morning that nice little ticket came through the letterbox.

Despite being a cheapie, the Maersk flight departed Gatwick on time and actually landed early. After collecting my bag, it was quite a walk from the gate to the baggage area. I bought a train ticket to Copenhagen Central Station, 25 Kroner, yep the Danes still use proper money, not silly Euro Roubles! The efficient train takes around 15 minutes to the city.

Next to find my hotel, the first thing to say about accommodation in Copenhagen is it ain’t cheap. My hotel The Cabinn was located a 10 minute walk south of the station and cost around £50 night including a good quality buffet breakfast. The rooms were small, but excellently designed, though the beds are a bit narrow, I did role out one night!

Well off to explore, first stop obviously the Tourist office. They are extremely helpful, lots of information and maps. The walking tours which leave from the Tourist Information at 10 am each day in the summer are excellent. They cost 75 Kroner and take around 2 and a half hours. They are in English explaining the city via its most famous son Hans Christian Anderson. One tip is that you are better off doing the tour on a week day as you can get into courtyards and see parts of buildings not open at the weekend. You also learn gems such as why the knee of the statue of Hans Christian Anderson is so shiny, its because tour buses full of oriental visitors pull up, and they sit on his knee to have their photo taken!

Nyhaven is what you see in all the postcards, a lovely area full of sailing boats and little waterside cafes.

Another tour worth doing is the 50 minute boat trip that leaves from Nyhaven (50 Kroner), you get a close up view of the new Opera house and you get to see the Little Mermaid statue from a different angle, you also get a riverside view of the new “Black Diamond”, this love it or hate it building is the National Library. The boat then heads into the canals of the Christianhavns area. Christiania as the area is known is home to an alternative community, which did have a reputation for drugs, but has cleaned up its act to some degree, though you can still walk down Pusher Street.

For a great view over the city it is hard to beat the climb up the tower of the Trinity Church (20 Kroner), some great views, but the protective fencing at the top does get in the way of photos.

If you want to explore further afield as I did you cant beat making the train trip to Helsingor up the coast to see Elsinor castle, famous in Shakespear’s Hamlet, it is expensive to enter, but the views around it are great. It was during a wander here that the lovely sunshine disappeared and a deluge of rain began, so I headed into Helsingor city and visited the town's museum, which is quite interesting, though there is little in English.

Another trip I made was west to Roskilde, this town is home to a spectacular cathedral, but of far more interest to me was the Viking Ship Museum (75 Kroner), there are Viking ships, well bits of them in the museum and out on the water are new ones built in the old way. You can walk around and see the ships being crafted, there are areas where children and the young at heart can try their hand at crafts from the Viking era.

Back in Copenhagen if you want to chill out after all that sightseeing The Rose Garden in Copenhagen’s second biggest park, Valby Parken is the place. There are quite a few themed gardens to wander round, number 3 has a maze and another has a Japanese theme.

Copenhagen is perfect for a long weekend and if any of you Globies are into Geocaching, there are around 20 to do in the cities environs.

The Beetle had told me Copenhagen was a bit boring when she had visited!

This is a picture of me in the Rose garden, Valby Park Copenhagen. Beetle: where are the roses, Kev?

Mike from the US wrote in to the Beetle to say that our e-newsletter is always welcome and interesting, but that our recent “Country Statistics – Crime: Assaults Top 10 Countries per capita” was a little misleading. It puts the US on top with over 2 million crimes per capita. He says that although we are a relatively dangerous destination, we aren't quite that bad. He took a look at the source website which shows that the table gives the per country totals and would therefore be biased against populous countries. Mike goes on to say that the per capita ranking is more informative, so here is Mike’s link to this. . Quite right, Mike, apologies, we don’t want to deliberately put the US in a misleading light, so here is a better representation.

Thanks Mike – from the Beetle. We love hearing from our readers, about any comments, complementary or a slap on the wrist, please let us know!

Source: .

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How did you do in our Flag Quiz

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As part of Trade Aid’s work in Tanzania, we aim to promote a sustainable tourism industry in Mikindani area. The following is the impressions of a trip to investigate the tourism and tourism opportunities in Palma, Northern Mozambique.

Palma is a small, fishing town set inside a large bay along the northern coast of Mozambique. It is home to some 10,000 people, most of whom are supported by industries linked to the sea. Like Mikindani, the place is quiet and peaceful and its people and culture are dominated by the influence of the Indian Ocean that surrounds it. In this way, what we expected was something more akin to Mikindani but the reality was quite different.

We arrived in Palma via two pick-up trucks and a boat across the Ruvuma to be greeted by the dusty, sandy sight all so familiar to us after our five months near Mtwara. However, what struck us was the complete absence of the historic buildings and NGO vehicles that dominate the landscape of Mikindani and Mtwara. The vehicle on which we arrived was virtually the only thing to pass through Palma during our stay while the old colonial buildings that dominate the visage of Mikindani were nowhere to be seen. Perhaps this was why Palma almost had a more earthy sense of untampered-with Swahili Coast. The charm of Mikindani lies in the huge mixture of different colonial, native and trade influences that have shaped its past and continues to shape its future. With Palma, it’s great appeal lies in the idea that it never was a settlement of great importance and so you feel, when walking around that this is the natural development of this part of the world.

There was no electricity or running water in the guest house, no Boma to retire to for a cold beer and certainly no hint of mobile phone signal and internet access but Palma itself was all the better for this. These things, along with the presence of brand names such as coca-cola and Pepsi are right for the formerly upwardly mobile Mikindani, a place now beginning to see a revival thanks to enterprises such as the Boma, the brand new ECO2 dive school and the newly revamped Ten Degrees South lodge. However, in a place such as Palma, where people are living on less than a dollar a day and where there has never been a glorious past to compare to that of Mikindani, these things would simply be out of place. We saw no other tourists during our time in Palma, which only served to enhance the feeling of being part of a totally different society. When following a regular tourist route, however sensitive a tour company or hotel may be, you never get to feel as cut off as this.

As part of our time there we went to see a local group of women rehearsing traditional Mozambique song (see picture, left). We were merely walking by when we were invited to sit in on the group during practice. Listening to the women and drums as the sun set and the tide came in really will be a lasting memory of my time spent in East Africa. Later that day we caught a dhow (traditional African/Arabic sail boat) from Palma all the way back to Mikindani. This again will stay with me for the rest of my life as one of the most authentic experiences of the lives people lead in this part of the world. These sorts of experiences, however overused the cliché may be, really are priceless. Money cannot buy memories and certainly looking at the people of Palma or Mikindani, plays no part in happiness or generosity. This sort of journey, away from the beaten track and reach of the guidebooks is highly recommended and, although not to everyone’s taste, will provide lasting memories to anyone willing to embark on them.