If there's only one trip you do in Seoul, it should be this one. The iron curtain has gone from Germany but is alive and well here. You have to take a tour. ON this occasion, the tour bus was 98% Japanese, just me and an American guy who spoke English, so we got the front seats and a guide to ourselves, and as we listened, we had the Japanese snoring champion behind us!

Panmunjon is the site of the UN base Camp Boniface, named after a UN Soldier murdered by the North Koreans. You are taken to Ballinger Hall, where you get a slide show showing the history and what you are going to be seeing. It's at this point you have to sign a disclaimer form saying you won't blame them if the North Koreans take a pot shot at you while you are on the tour!

The Observation post is next, where you look across to “Propoganda Village” an uninhabited North Korean village that has a 160 metre high flagpole, this dwarfs the 100 metre high one at Freedom village on the South Korean side. You look down also on the 4 huts, 3 blue and one silver where occasional peace talks take place. Then you cross the road and enter blue hut number 2, inside is a table with microphones down the middle.

Outside North Korean guards peer in at you, you are allowed to take photos surprisingly. But the two sets of guards glower at each other through their sunglasses, so they cannot make eye contact. The Southern guards have only half their body showing, so they are less of a target!

Back at Camp Boniface you have an all you can eat “All American” buffet lunch, chicken, sweet corn, potatoes, etc etc. You are then free to buy a T-shirt or other souvenir. By the gate is “The worlds most dangerous golf hole”! If you slice from here you won't get your ball back!

Buzz is in the Beetle's opinion the only decent low cost airline. On board information includes useful hints and tips about your destination, what to do and where to stay, and what's more, you can keep it! Yes, you have to pay for your food, but the service is far superior to a carrier such as Ryan Air. From 27 October 2002, Buzz will be flying up to six flights a day from London Stansted to Amsterdam, the land of Vermeer and Amstel beer. Prices start from just £21 one way – so you've got no excuse not to visit one of the most relaxed, vibrant and cosmopolitan cities in Europe. Buzz are also launching their new winter schedule: from 27 October 2002 until 29 March 2003, you can fly to some great winter destinations – and from 14 December, they are reopening their routes to Chambéry and Geneva – great for planning a cheap skiing holiday. See www.buzz.co.uk

The majority of this trip uses travel by train, with journeys of no more than 4 hours. It takes in Jerez, Seville, Cordoba, Granada, Ronda, Cadiz and Algeciras if you are planning to take the hydrofoil across to Morocco, if you have time and then back to Jerez. Because there are some good flight deals from the UK, you could start the journey in Jerez, or Seville, Granada or even Malaga, which is only about 1½ hours away from Granada.

Buzz http://www.buzzaway.com has cheap flights to Jerez, Easy Jet http://www.easyjet.co.uk flies to both Madrid and Malaga but Ryan Air does not fly to Spain. Otherwise, try Lastminute.com for good airline deals to Southern Spain.) If you intend to continue your stay, you may find it worthwhile to buy a Spain train pass, otherwise, the train fares are reasonable, and Spain's trains are on the whole, very efficient and clean. It's also possible to start this journey from Madrid, if that is where you happen to be: Seville is only 2 ¼ hours from Madrid by the super fast AVE train.

The Beetle has chosen to start in Jerez (pronounced Her-eth). So, what is there to see and do in Jerez? Well, the most obvious thing is to go and taste some sherry – this is, after all, the place where sherry comes from! There are lots of bodegas where you can see how sherry is made and of course sample a drop or too! There's the Alcazar, the palace and the Camera Obscura, and if you like horses, then the Jerez Riding School is for you. There is certainly enough to keep you happy and occupied for a couple of days.

From here, you can take the train from Jerez to Seville, around 1 1/2 hours, if you take an express train, second class adult single: £ 7.50 ($12) or return £15 ($23). This trip can be taken as a day trip or as part of a circuit, taking in Jerez, Seville, Cordoba and Granada.

Seville is a beautiful city, and the capital of Andalucia, with lovely old streets, lots of tapas bars and of course, the famous cathedral, which contains the tomb of Christopher Colombus, well, it may contain the remains of Christopher Colombus, his remains were brought over from Cuba in 1899, and may have got mislaid en route. There are churches, plazas, museums – many places to go and visit to keep a tourist amused, again for a couple of days.

From Seville, it is possible to take the train to Cordoba. The journey takes about 45 minutes and costs around £12 one way or $19. Cordoba is probably most famous for the Mezquita, the Great Mosque, which influenced Arabian-Hispanic architecture for the centuries to come. You will find much evidence of Roman and Moorish history in Cordoba and great food too!

From Cordoba, take the train to Granada, which is the longest journey of this circuit, takes about 4 hours and costs around £ 7.50 ($12) or return £15 ($23) – the bus is quicker and takes 3 hours. No need to say much about Granada, except that you must see the Alhambra, discussed by Matt in this e-newsletter.

The Alhambra Palace is open throughout the year except 1st January and 25th December. Visiting times are 8.30 to 20.00h (1st March to 31st Oct. Last admissions at 19.00) and 9.00 to 18.00h (1st November to end of February). Last admissions are at 17.00. Night visits in the winter season are on Fridays and Saturdays from 20.00 to 22.00h (ticket sales from 19.45 to 21.00h). In the summer on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday from 22.00 to 24.00 (ticket sales from 20.45 to 23.00). However, given the large numbers of visitors, visiting times are assigned in a system of slots, which makes it extremely advisable to book in advance, especially at peak times such as May to October.

If you don't want to risk being disappointed when you turn up, you can make a personal booking through BBV by calling the advance bookings telephone service in Spain, Tel: number 0034 91346 5936/0034 902 224460 or visit www.alhambratickets.com (Spanish only). When you have had your fill of the Alhambra, head for the Allaying, Granada's old hilly Islamic quarter and the Camilla Real or Royal Chapel.

From Granada, take the train to Ronda, a pretty and old historic town that straddles a huge gorge. Apart from the stunning scenery and views, there are plazas to wander around, old palaces and churches. Be warned, though, if you want to make this trip by train, there is only one train a day leaving Granada, otherwise, take the bus. The train takes around 2 1/4 hours and costs about £12 one way or $19. It is also possible to travel by train to Ronda from Malaga (2 hours), Cordoba (2 14/ hours), Madrid (4 ½ hours during the day), and Seville – although from Seville, you have to change trains.

If you are running out of time, then take a bus back from Ronda to Jerez, it takes less than two hours. If you have some more time, then you have two options. Option 1 is to take a bus from Ronda to Cadiz. Cadiz is a charming city, some say possibly the oldest in Europe, (I know, they all say that!), but it is full of history: the Phoenicians arrived in Cadiz in 1100 BC, and do you remember Sir Francis Drake “singeing” the beard of the King of Spain? Things to see and do include the Torre Tavira and its camera Obscura, visiting plazas, the cathedral, and you should take a coastal walk to the Castle of Santa Catalina. The train from Cadiz to Jerez takes about 40 minutes and costs only a few pounds/dollars.

Option 2 is for those who would like to go to Gibraltar or Morocco. The train from Ronda down to Algeciras takes 1 1/2 hours, and costs around £7 or US $10. Algeciras is a port town, on the tip of Spain, overlooking the Straits of Gibraltar. From here, you can make a day excursion to Gibraltar, or use it as a jumping off point to Tangier in Morocco. The hydrofoil to Tangiers takes about 2 ½ hours, is very simple and costs around £17 or $24 one way. From Tangier, it is easy to travel through Morocco by bus and train, to Fez, Meknes, Marrakech and Cassablanca (if you really must – Marrakech is far nicer!) To get back to Jerez from Algeciras, take a bus, which will take around 2 hours.

Cadiz, Seville and Cordoba are all possible contenders for day trips out of Jerez, if you are short on time.

Save the Earth Network, founded in 1988, is a Ghana based NGO dedicated to promoting sustainable development, agro-forestry, environmental conservation, international solidarity and cultural immersion through voluntary work, eco-tourism and cultural tourism in Ghana. Our aims are to help reduce poverty, hunger, malnutrition, disease, illiteracy, drug abuse, unemployment, and environmental degradation that are increasingly becoming the order of the day in most parts of the developing world.

We are a membership-based organization and also a networking tool for environmental, social and economic development activists. We also offer travellers from abroad the most socially responsible, exciting and affordable eco-friendly alternative to mass tourism.

Ghana is an English speaking country on Africa's west coast with a population of over 18 million and over 92,099 square miles. Along much of the coast stretches a sandy, grass-and-shrub-covered plain. Behind it rises a moderately high plateau broken by forested hills and steep ridges. Ghana has a tropical climate with temperatures from 70 to 90 ^oF. Except for small European and Asian minorities, Ghanaians are people of many tribes. Most Ghanaians are Christians but there are many Moslems and others who hold animist beliefs.

We offer volunteer placements in areas that includes renovation and construction of school buildings and libraries for poor rural communities, teaching English language in foster homes and orphanages, HIV/AIDS prevention education, re-forestation and agro-forestry through tree planting and organic farming. No special skills, qualifications or previous experience is required of volunteers – all that is required is motivation, charisma, initiative, drive and the compassion to assist the underprivileged overcome their challenges and their struggle for dignity.

Volunteers can participate in most of the programs from a period of 4 weeks to 52 weeks or more. Volunteers work four days a week, from Monday to Thursday and can decide upon the amount of hours worked each day. The cost of participating in the voluntary work program is US$250 for 4 weeks. This charge covers board and lodging and help towards the running of our organisation. Volunteers stay with host families in homes with electricity and water. We can offer a 25% discount on the cost of volunteers who would like to participate for a period of more than 8 weeks.

We also have a holiday program where people can stay with host families for a holiday, cultural exchange, relaxation and recreation or to learn the local language. The charge for this, including board and lodging is US $250 for three or four weeks. Special discounts are available for longer stays.

We offer guided three day general tours each Friday, Saturday and Sunday for volunteers and those who are interested in seeing some of the tourist attractions in Ghana. The cost of this is US $100 for the tour guide for the three days plus the costs of bus, food and hotels – all of which can be advised upon.

We also organise unique eco-tourism programs in Ghana in conjunction with tour operators in Ghana. Our eco-tourism focuses on local cultures, wilderness adventures, personal growth and learning new ways to live in our vulnerable planet. We focus on travelling to destinations where the floral, fauna, and cultural heritage are the primary attractions.

Areas of eco-tourism which we cover includes small group hiking, river rafting and canoeing, villages and beaches, culture and photo tours, traditional stories, historic sites, traditional drumming and dances, traditional houses, trekking, animal sanctuaries, nature tourism, exotic natural habitats, scenes of spectacular natural beauty etc. the cost of joining is US $200 a week including food (at restaurants) and accommodation (at hotels) and transportation (bus) and professional tour guide's charge. Participants experience rich cultural immersion and unique hospitality. It is fun, worthwhile and rewarding.

People who would like to participate in any of our programs should please contact us for more information, contact: Edgar Asare or Eben Mensah at Save the Earth Network, P.O. Box CT 3635, Cantonments, Accra, Ghana. West Africa. Tel: 233-21-667791, Fax: 233-21-231485.Email:ebensten@yahoo.com

Did you know?…you are one of around 6,500 subscribers who receive this e-newsletter each month. 53% of you live in the United States, 22% in the UK, 4% in Canada, 3% in Australia and 2% in Poland. We have subscribers in another 145 countries, ranging from Uzbekistan to British Antarctic Territory. A big thank you to all of you – and don't forget, drop the Beetle a line about your travels, hints and tips, travel gripes, travel fun etc! This is an e-newsletter for you, by you! Beetle@globetrotters.co.uk.

As I proceeded through the terminal at Bangkok's International Airport I felt the warm air greet me and a rush of excitement tickled my stomach. This was the first destination of my journey around the globe, smiling I thought to myself 'Welcome to the rest of the world!'

Cruising down the highway into the city the vast mass of buildings as far as the eye can see in all directions makes Bangkok seem a little overwhelming at first. For most jet lagged backpackers the Kho San Road is usually the first port of call, I however was lucky to have a free place to stay in Thong Lo on the other side of town.

After catching up on a few lost zeds I was taken to a Thai restaurant. I had never tasted Thai food so good. All the ingredients were so fresh and beautifully served, I am normally a fussy eater but on this occasion I wanted to try everything. If you like rice or noodles there is almost every combination to suit everybody.

Tip: Watch out for the chillies, Thai food can be very spicy!

After dinner we went to meet some of the locals. Apparently Thai people have very long names so they give nicknames to make things easier. I have a tendency to forget names at the best of times, that evening I met Jo, Bo and O. I got terribly mixed up. 'Who was who again?'

The city's name itself comes from Bang Makok meaning 'Place of Olive Plums' taken from Bangkok's original site. The Thais however call it 'Krung Thep' meaning 'City of Angels', a far more desirable name and of course why not.

Bangkok became the capital of Thailand only as recently as 1782 after the Burmese attacked the capital at Ayuthaya in 1767. Now with a population of about 10 million, spreading across 330 sq km. For such a young city you get the impression that it has learnt to run before it could walk. The natural landscape is completely flat of which little is left exposed in the protruding mass of high rise buildings and temples.

93% of the Thai population are practicing Theraveda Buddhists, so our sightseeing started at the Grand Palace home to Royalty, government offices and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. Every year there are three grand ceremonies for the changing of the Emerald Buddha's seasonal costume.

Tip: When entering a temple you must always remember to remove your shoes and not point your feet towards the Buddha when sitting.

Next was the Vimanek Mansion the biggest golden teak building in the world that has traditional Thai dancing shows next to the canal. I discovered that Bangkok used to be known as the Venice of the east. Only the spectacular Temples and Royal Palaces were built on the original land. During my stay I saw little evidence left to suggest this was ever so, however during the rainy season Bangkok often floods and ironically the streets go back to being rivers once more.

Our Last stop for the day Wat Pho the temple of the largest leaning Buddha in the world (46 metres in length). Also home to the reputable Thai massage school and what better way to end the day than leaning back yourself and receiving a massage. After an hour or two with a few pops, twists and cracks you feel very refreshed. As you go back out to the bustling streets the urban metropolis hits you once more and you ask yourself 'Did that sanctuary really exist in the midst of all of this?' Nearby the Kho San Road, the backpackers' main drag, there are bars, Internet cafes, travel agents, shops, stalls and lots of cheap accommodation, all busy with travellers coming and going.

All over Bangkok there are thousands of market stalls cluttering the streets. Tables and chairs lay along the pavement under patchy homemade canopies. Often you have to dodge yourself out into the hectic traffic in order to get past these obstacle courses. And as for crossing the road it sometimes it can seem like an eternity waiting for a gap in the traffic.

At the end of the reliable Skytrain on the Sukumvit line is the enormous Chatuya weekend market. We went with the intention of buying one pair of sandals but I could not believe the bargains and ended up buying three, so much for travelling light. The designer imitations or factory seconds you find all over Bangkok are so well made that no one can tell the difference and at a fraction of the price you just got to have them.

Tip: Haggle, you will definitely not pay the original asking price.

Thai people are more than happy to help whether it is to practice their English or to make a quick buck. No matter where you are or where you are going in Bangkok there is always someone offering a cheap ride. One evening five of us squashed into the back of a tuk tuk (a small three wheeled two stroke) and of we raced to Pat Pong. Night markets fill the side streets, bars and clubs with ladies that do all sorts of things with their private parts. Out of curiosity we took a look. Ping-pong balls, razor blades, bananas, etc within five minutes we walked out our drinks barely touched, that was enough for us thanks! Hum…City of Angels?

The great thing about Bangkok is not only is it very affordable with plenty to do in the big city but also it is very easy to get out. For a day trip, there is the beach at Pattaya, the Ancient ruins at Ayuthaya or the popular boat markets near the famous River Kwai. 1-2hrs by plane or an overnight bus or train will take you to Thailand's beautiful southern beaches, northern rainforests or ancient temples. It has been recognised that Thailand is regarded as one of the safest countries to visit in Asia if not the world and for the inexperienced traveller starting out, it is probably the best place to get adjusted to an unfamiliar culture.

If you'd like to get in touch with Ingrid, she's currently toiling away in a banana factory in Cairns right now, and the Beetle is sure that she would appreciate an e-mail! Ingrid's e-mail address is: ingrid_styles@hotmail.com

There was no London meeting in August, but we will be back on Saturday 7^th September when Marion Bull will be talking about her recent travels, “Travelling with the Tuareg” in the Southern Algerian Sahara and rock paintings of the Tassili N'Ajjer.

Julian Webster will be sharing his thoughts and slides: “India – a Kaleidoscope of Memories, Moments and Surprises.

London meetings are held at The Church of Scotland, Crown Court, behind the Fortune Theatre in Covent Garden at 2.30pm the first Saturday of each month. There is no London meeting in August, but we will be back on Saturday 1^st September. For more information, you can contact the Globetrotter Info line on +44 (0) 20 8674 6229, or visit the website: www.globetrotters.co.uk

HOLLAND BY BIKE! Rob Lewis, one of our own, will be giving a slide show and lecture about Holland and perhaps select areas of England and Ireland. Come join us for our Sept. kick off meeting! Should be amazing! Away from the tourist trail, the real Holland of dunes, rivers, dikes, canals, lowlands, windmills and castles can be reached via the Landelijk Fietsplatform (LF) routes – 3000 miles of long distance cycle routes. Robert will be giving a slide show and discussing the routes, sights, and stresses of trying to circle the Netherlands during a 7 day self guided tour. Robert Lewis is a recent arrival to NY, having spent 8 years living in Hong Kong working as an equity research analyst focusing on Asian technology companies. Robert has travelled extensively throughout Europe and Asia, and has taken his bicycle to Australia, New Zealand and Japan.

New York meetings are held at The Wings Theater, 154 Christopher Street (btw Greenwich St and Washington St), to the right of Crunch Fitness, in the Archive on the first Saturday of each month at 4 pm.