Russians to Avoid Nepal

The Russian foreign ministry urged Russian citizens on Friday to defer travel to Nepal for personal security reasons. “The internal political situation in the Kingdom of Nepal has recently deteriorated,” the ministry said. “Mass demonstrations against the government accompanied by acts of violence have spread over the country.”

The Foreign Office has advised “against all but essential travel” to Nepal because of enhanced tension in the Himalayan country.

Three people have been killed and hundreds injured as police opened fire on crowds. There have also been hundreds of arrests.

The Foreign Office (FO) warned there was a risk of visiting Britons getting caught up in violence on the streets.

“Those British nationals already in Nepal should decide whether their presence there is essential,” the FO said. “We will keep this advice under close review.”


Kenya's Flamingos

News in July comes form Kenya that hundreds of flamingos have been reported dead in Kenya's Lake Nakuru wildlife sanctuary. Experts believe that the flamingos died due to chemical pollution from surrounding industries. Over 1.2 million flamingos are under threat and fears have been expressed over the extinction of the Lake, which is drying up due to environmental degradation and dwindling flows from

several rivers that drain into the Lake.

Yahoo! Inc said it has launched a travel service that promised to find the best deals on airfare and hotels. The 'Yahoo Farechase' website differed from a travel service in that it scoured internet websites to compare prices being offered online for flights or lodging, according to the Sunnyvale, California-based firm. 'This is the first time a search engine for travel pricing and a search engine for travel experiences have come together in a single product,' said Jasper Malcolmson, director of Yahoo Travel. Tools on the site allow people to create itineraries, map routes and share insights gleaned from their travels.


Niger Bandits Strike Again

Two Italian tourists remain captured when an off-road touring group of more than 20 Italian and other foreign tourists were been kidnapped in southeast Niger. The group were kidnapped in the desert zone near Lake Chad on the border with Chad. This zone is described by a Niger spokesman “as very porous (Chadian) border”. The area near Lake Chad where the party was ambushed is notorious for banditry. Three years ago, more than 30 European tourists were captured by suspected militant Islamists in the border region of Niger and Algeria and had to be rescued in an operation by the Algerian military.


New Low Cost HK Route

Oasis Hong Kong Airlines is Hong Kong's first low fare, long-haul passenger airline. Starting in October 2006, Oasis Hong Kong Airlines will offer non-stop service to London-Gatwick. It initially plans to offer flights to London, Chicago, Cologne, Berlin, Oakland and Milan but hopes to fly to 15 destinations by 2011. This could mean bargain basement fares between London and Hong Kong, and maybe even apply some pressure to the likes of BA and Virgin Atlantic who are expected to reduce their prices to deal with the competition. The Beetle: please don't let it be a Ryanair type operation – I'm waiting for the day when Ryanair travellers have to put a £1 coin in to use the toilets on board. Now there's an idea, Mr O'Leary…

The Japanese government recently disclosed that there is now a greater proportion of elderly people in Japan than anywhere else in the world. Last year's Japanese census show that the number of people aged 65 and over reached 21% (27m), overtaking Italy for the first time. What's more, fewer and fewer people are finding partners; almost three out of five women in their late twenties are unmarried, and a third of those in their early thirties. About half the men in the same age group have not found a wife. The ratio of children under 15 is also lower than anywhere else in the world. Matchmaking services have even been launched by local councils to try to help people to marry.


Algarve Cycle Route

Are you an avid cyclist? Love the Algarve? This should interest you: the President of the Junta Metropolitana do Algarve recently announced that 214 km of the Ecovia do Litoral (Coastal Eco-Road) should be finished by approximately March 2007. Initially the route was devised for cycle tourists, but covers any type of non-motorised transport, the Ecovia do Litoral will connect the Algarve from point to point, starting in Cape St. Vicente, in the Municipality of Vila do Bispo, it passes all the cities of the Algarve coastline and finished in Vila Real de Santo António.


World's Highest Train

The first Qinghai-Tibet train from China's capital Beijing to Tibet's capital Lhasa has arrived after a two-day 1,140km (710-mile) journey. The journey is said to be the world's highest train journey reaching a massive 5,072m (16,000 feet)- oxygen is pumped into the carriages to help passengers deal with the high altitudes. China says the line will bring major opportunities to a poor region, that will “hugely boost local development and benefit the local people”, but critics fear it will be used by China to assert its control over an already contested border region and that the railway line threatens not only the delicate Himalayan environment, but also the ancient Tibetan culture.


Honesty Pays

A Canadian couple visiting the San Francisco Bay area have a lot to thank an honest Good Samaritan who found and returned a bag the Canadians accidentally left in a park. The bag contained about a million dollars' worth of jewellery and thousands in cash. According to local newspaper, the Toronto Star, the bag belonged to the wife of a Toronto dentist. She and her husband were in Northern California to attend their daughter's wedding, and misplaced the purse when they stopped in a park in Sausalito, a popular tourist town with a spectacular view of San Francisco. The Good Samaritan, 56-year-old respiratory therapist John Suhrhoff, told the newspaper that he sees nothing unusual in his actions. “Every person I know or associate with would have done the same thing,” he said. “I'm glad to be able to help.


Nigerian Referees

Fanny Amun, the acting secretary-general of the Nigerian Football Association, said bribery happens frequently, but referees “should only pretend to fall for the bait, but make sure the result doesn't favour those offering the bribe Nigerian soccer referees can feel free to take bribes as long as they don't let the bribes influence their calls.

Strangely, Nigeria has been rated as one of the world's more corrupt nations, and football does not appear to be an exception. This prompted The Beetle to Google the world's most corrupt countries. According to Transparency International's 2005 listing, the most corrupt country was Chad, followed by Bangladesh, Turlmensitan, Myanmar, Haiti, and, wait for it…

June saw the Kuwaiti women voting for the first time… Women can vote and stand for election in four of the six countries in the largely conservative Gulf Arab region. They are banned in Saudi Arabia, which is an absolute monarchy, governed according to a very conservative interpretation of Islamic Sharia law, under which women's rights still remain limited; they are, for example, not permitted to travel unaccompanied by male relatives or allowed to drive. There are no political elections in the United Arab Emirates.


Penguin Suits

Spotted by one of Mac's friends: Mormon women in New South Wales are knitting sweaters for penguins.

error-file:xhtmlTidyOut.logDoll size, tight-fitting wool sweaters keep this breed of “fairy” penguins warm as they recover from exposure to oil spills off coastal Australia, dramatically raising their survival rate. (Photograph courtesy of the Church of JESUS CHRIST of Latter-day Saints)


Meeting News from London

July Meeting News from London by Padmassana

As is our custom the July meeting was given over to club members to take us around the world in 90 minutes.

Africa was our first port of call as Sylvia Pullen took us to Ghana, with its Atlantic coast, old slave castles and fishing boats.

We hopped across the Atlantic as Liz Cooper showed us her trip to Cuba, we saw how farming is still done using oxen, but there is sport and education for all.

Back to Africa as Phil Ferguson took us to Senegal, lovely photos of the giant Pelicans.

East now to Turkey for Gavin Fernandes to show us the spectacular Solar eclipse and also pictures of all the people taking pictures of the eclipse.

Simon Banks took us into the break with his cycling trip around China, showing us the countryside and the markets, which are not for the squeamish!

After the break Katie Fahrland took us to the former Yugoslav countries of Croatia, and Bosnia, showing us how it has been rebuilt after the wars. The Mostar bridge now again attracting tourists.

Alex Mochnacz showed us the “Burning Man” festival held in the Nevada desert, with its enormous interactive works of art, culminating in the arts incineration.

Jacqui Trotter took us to Santorini, where she attended friends wedding on the volcanic isle with its white buildings providing the backdrop.

Malcolm Procter was last up showing us his trip to the Antarctic via Argentina, fantastically shaped ice formations and the ever so watchable penguins.

Many thanks to all those who made the last meeting of the season so interesting and enjoyable and to all those who make it happen.

Padmassana

London meetings are held at The Church of Scotland, Crown Court, behind the Fortune Theatre in Covent Garden at 2.30pm the first Saturday of each month. There is no London meeting in August, but we will be back in September. For more information, you can contact the Globetrotters Info line on +44 (0) 20 8674 6229, or visit the website: www.globetrotters.co.uk

Meeting News from London

June Meeting News from London by Dan James

Our first speakers this month were Katrina Manson and James Knight, who have just finished writing a new book on Burkino Faso for Brandt travel guides. While in the country Katrina and James were also working for the Reuters news agency and the BBC.

They showed us fascinating images of one of many of the horse festivals popular in the country where riders demonstrate their skills. At these meetings, which are attended by local chiefs as well as as those from neighbouring Mali, musicians sing songs which describe the history of the chiefs of the various clans – there are 60 ethnic groups in Burkino Faso.

While travelling around the country, Katrina and James hired a clapped-out old 4×4, soon discovering that once stalled was impossible to restart. As a result they often had to beseech local people to help them push start it. This led to a few hairy moments, most notably when they got stuck in an area heavily inhabited by lions, and another time when, in search of hippos (Africa’s single largest killer of humans), they drove into a lake and again had to be bailed out by helpful local people. During the experience they also saw how, in spite of supposedly being sacred, crocodiles are frequently hauled out of lakes by their tails, for the benefit of tourists such as themselves.

They also showed us harvest festivals where highly skilled dancers wear elaborate animal costumes and dance for the honour of the village and the chief. Dozens of chickens are sacrificed in order for witchdoctors to ascertain how lucky the village is going to be with the upcoming harvest.

Katrina and James explained how, intriguingly, Burkino Faso has a thriving film industry, with movies frequently shown at large outdoor cinemas.

The country is relatively stable compared to many of its neighbours, but still relies on foreign aid for 40 percent of its income. Its largest industries are cotton and gold, but old-fashioned technology means that these rarely manage to extend beyond cottage industry level. Thanks to government awareness campaigns it also has a very low rate of AIDS/HIV infection at around 2.8 percent, far below the rate of many other African countries.

The country is becoming more popular with tourists, many attracted by ancient, natural formations including peaks and domes in the northern part of the country close to the Sahara desert.

Our second speaker was Patricia Baker, who has also just written a book for Brandt, this time on Iran, a country she first visited in 1971. She continued to go to the country up until the Iran-Iraq war broke out in 1980 but was not able to return until 1993; now usually visiting twice a year.

Patricia showed us images of religious iconography including the beautiful glass and mirror work contained in many mosques, much of it many hundreds of years old. These included many images relating to the prophet Muhammad. She also displayed more modern depictions, including public posters, some referring to spiritual events.

She said the process of getting a visa for Iran can be very long-winded, but once inside the country, visitors are overwhelmed by the friendship, kindness and hospitality of the people. However, she warns those thinking of going to expect to be asked questions along the lines of: “Do you know Manchester? My brother is there.”

She also urged, with more than 20,000 recorded road fatalities every year, against driving in the country.

London meetings are held at The Church of Scotland, Crown Court, behind the Fortune Theatre in Covent Garden at 2.30pm the first Saturday of each month. There is no London meeting in August, but we will be back in September. For more information, you can contact the Globetrotters Info line on +44 (0) 20 8674 6229, or visit the website: www.globetrotters.co.uk

Meeting News from London

May 2006 London meeting

Despite competition from a giant elephant in Trafalgar Square and a spaceship near Waterloo, Globies was still packed this month.

Our first speaker this month was Sam Manicom who showed us his yearlong motorcycle journey down the eastern side of Africa from Egypt down to South Africa. Sam was both amazed and humbled by his experiences. Despite being arrested three times during his trip as well as falling off at regular intervals, he survived to reach South Africa. (www.sam-manicom.com)

After the break photographer Paul Harris showed us that being a commercial travel photographer is not just one long holiday. Paul’s talk was diverse taking in Chilean landscapes, Calcutta street kid projects and the shots he took during a bunjy jump downunder with his camera strapped to his hand.

By Padmassana

London meetings are held at The Church of Scotland, Crown Court, behind the Fortune Theatre in Covent Garden at 2.30pm the first Saturday of each month. There is no London meeting in August, but we will be back in September. For more information, you can contact the Globetrotters Info line on +44 (0) 20 8674 6229, or visit the website: www.globetrotters.co.uk

Overseas Meetings

We used to have meetings in New York City and New Braunfels, Texas. Regrettably, after having done a superb job, neither organisers are able to give their time to Globetrotter meetings. If you are based in New York or New Braunfels and have the time to commit to pick up where our previous organisers left off, we'd love to hear from you – please see our FAQ or contact our the Branch Liaison Officer via our Website at Meeting FAQ. If you are based elsewhere and are interested in starting a branch of the Globetrotters, please feel free to contact us.

Meeting News from Ontario

For information on Ontario meetings, please contact Svatka Hermanek: shermanek@schulich.yorku.ca or Bruce Weber: tel. 416-203-0911 or Paul Webb: tel. 416-694-8259.

Meetings are held on the third Friday of January, March, May, September and November. Usually at the Woodsworth Co-op, Penthouse, 133, Wilton Street in downtown Toronto at 8.00 p.m.

Seeing China First Hand

The Beetle recently spent a couple of weeks staying with her friend Nicola in a beautiful village outside Philadelphia. Nicola wrote this article about a trip to China in 2005 that was both work and leisure related. In this article, Nicola reflects on the conditions and people she met with and gives us a fascinating insight into China's geopolitics from a travel and work perspective.

Road through the desertChina's rising thirst for oil has long caused consternation in the geeky circles of the oil industry, as most recognized some time ago that the growing band of Shanghainese abandoning bicycles for BMW's would mean a sharp rise in global petrol demand. With the world now well aware of this dilemma, the oil industry is pondering where it will find sufficient oil to meet China's needs.

On its western border, China is flanked by the oil rich nations of the Caspian Sea – Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan – and most have assumed that these countries will export to China. Beijing's attempts to cosy up to its neighbours has been eyed warily by American, European and Japanese leaders who would also like to get their hands on Caspian Sea oil. Historians have noted that similarities with the 19th century Great Game, a land grab between the Russian and English Empires. Life in Axinjang

For its part, China has pointed out that its energy position isn't as precarious as the outside world likes to think, that it in fact has vast untapped oil and gas resources in the Tarim Basin of it's far west Xinjiang Province. As is often the case in China, the easiest way to verify claims is to go see it!

Unfortunately, 270,000 km2 of the Tarim Basin is covered by the Taklamakan Desert, a vast inhospitable shifting sand desert long the preserve of adventurers and eccentrics. Culturally a part of central Asia (one of our translators planned to marry a woman from nearby Tajikistan), the majority Uighur population of the region have an uneasy relationship with the Han Chinese. Younger Uighurs are clearly torn between the economic opportunities (such as rare non-agricultural jobs) that the Han Chinese offer and the security that traditional village leaderships represent. There are also signs of rising religious tensions, for instance, in Islamic graffiti on the walls of ancient Buddhist caves.Breakfast in Axinjang

DIY Bed and Breakfast, near AxinjangMost journeys into the desert begin in Urumqi, a modern city indistinguishable from any other second tier Chinese city. Though it formed part of the original Silk Road, a journey through the desert was long considered a death sentence, and it wasn't until 1995 that a highway was erected. Though the highway allows access to the amenities of the region's cities to the tiniest desert village, some villages chose to remain closed and the highway was evidently rerouted and the villages excluded from maps to accommodate this. Ironically, those who put great store in recreating ancient methods of traversing the desert (donkey, rickshaw, et al) also rely heavily on the “shamo gonglu” highway. Market in Axinjang

The five-day long drive through the desert is punctuated by the odd wild camel-sighting, sand storms, and stops at oasis towns. As in much of the Islamic world, the centre of patronage in each village is the mosque and the hub of activity is the market place. There you can see dried snakes curled around washing lines at a medicine stall (see photo entitled Market), super sweet unleavened cookies at another, and mounds of ripe watermelons. With colourfully festooned donkeys still the primary mode of transport, the towns have a medieval air.

Cattle Market near AxinjangThere are also plentiful cultural activities along the route, including the remains of the “lost city” of Subashi, well-maintained mosques, and little visited museums – we had to wake the curator from a lunchtime nap to ask him to turn the lights on for us in one.

Lodging is, naturally, pretty basic, in an area where running water and electricity remain rare, and most families live with their animals in small brick and wattle courtyard houses. Camping in the desert was icy cold at night, but glorious sun rises over the dunes more than compensated.

Even for those lacking a focus for their trip (and yes, there were oil wells aplenty), the Taklamakan Desert is a fascinating journey, a great place to challenge your assumptions about the influence of the modern on ancient cultures and to feign life as an adventurer for a little while.

About the author: Nicola Kerslake has travelled and worked in Asia, Europe and the US, and has written extensively on China's oil industry. If you would like to get in touch with Nicola, the Beetle will pass across any messages.

A Fun Day Out In Jail by Tony Annis

Stuck between two very large local ladies with a yard of wet fish draped across my legs, gave a moment to ponder on an extremely different day out that I had just enjoyed!

We had been filming a feature film (partly financed by C4) for about five months on location in Maputo, in the very lovely but battle scarred Mozambique. As happens on most features there sometimes comes a small problemette, a hiatus or in other words, 'The shit hits the fan' and the company needed 'time out'. So the Brazilian Production Manager said, “Be a good 1st Assistant Director and organise the foreign crew a fun day out and I will give the locals paid leave whilst things are sorted out”.

The total crew of 200 was very large but the foreign contingent consisted of Kenyans, Zimbabweans, French, South African, English, Irish, Brazilian, and American. The language of the 'Set' was Portuguese, French and English, but that in itself was another story!

So I set about planning a day out, away from Maputo, in a very different environment, that I hoped, would let them all enjoy themselves and forget about filming for the time being. The plan was to take a trip aboard a large public water bus that would take us down to the mouth of the river and on to an idyllic island where there were wonderful golden beaches, lovely coves and most importantly a great fish restaurant. The sun decided to make the day as perfect as possible and as I went down to the harbour, my spirit was high in spite of a few deserters. For example: the Brazilian Director of Photography said, “I don't want to be away, when the politics are flying around in three languages”!

Finally we were on our way, our multicoloured, multiracial and multilingual crew, packed like a tin of Sardines aboard the boat. This was Sunday and everyone else in Maputo seems to have had the same idea. The two hour trip ended and we dropped anchor off this fantastic island, all started to dive of the boat and swim to the golden beach, anticipating the great day of pleasure to come.

Suddenly soldiers appeared and demanded to see everybody's papers. I began to have a premonition that things might be working out a little different to my plan. So before the soldiers stopped any of the crew without their passports – I went up to the Sgt. And said in my best Portuguese, “I am looking forward to a wonderful Sunday on your lovely island”. It was as if I had dropped a bomb. “What!? No papers” said the Sgt. “Arrest them all”. “Take them to jail and I'll phone HQ”. No amount of pleading could change his mind. We tramped up the beach surrounded by an armed guard, towards the middle of the island and he explained that he had been alerted about a South African commando group that might try to infiltrate his position and take the Island. I looked at my motley crew plus French lead Alex Defcaf and the two new actor arrivals from the UK, Peter Postlethwaite and Struan Rodger. Nothing I thought could look less than a commando group. The gorgeous South African continuity girl in her bikini meanwhile whispered in my ear for me to remember she wanted me to say she was French. A soldier and the female Sound Mixer from England were having a discussion in broken Portuguese, on the merits of various famous Alto Sax players. The Sgt. Pointed at the black French Actor and demanded as to why he did not speak Portuguese – “He is a Parisian” I said, which seemed to satisfy him! I quickly got my cast and crew into a group and told the Sgt. we would not enter his dark, damp jail but would sit in a group outside in the sun, under guard while he phoned his HQ. Speaking to my group in their various languages, telling them that the company would buy them the best lunch possible in the restaurant to make up for their spoilt day! The Sgt. began to be more confused and said. “”I'm beginning to believe you, as I cannot imagine a 'guerrilla group' not being able to speak the same language”. A soldier was chatting up the black accountant from Kenya and though she only spoke English, they seemed to be getting on splendidly. All this time there had not been one whinge from any of the cast or crew even though their day out was passing by fast. All were communicating in some friendly way or other and the soldier's discipline went out the window as all started mingling outside the jail.

Finally the Sgt. got word: HQ asked “Were the people very strange? Yes” said the Sgt. “Then it really is a film crew “said HQ. From then on things got better and better. The Soldiers escorted us to the best beach via the restaurant for us to place our order for a magnificent lunch courtesy of the film company.

So after a rather strange start, we had some great swimming in that clear blue water, followed by an awesome fish lunch, washed down by very good white wine. Then back to boat, sailing homewards as a fantastic African sunset spread across sky. The motley band were all over the boat, enjoying themselves in their different ways ; while I was sitting quietly in the stern surrounded by a group of large local women. They squashed all around me, and I of course, had to help when one of them needed to feed her baby – So that's how I came to have a large fish across my knees as the boat docked. The cast and crew went passed me, as I held the fish and the baby and I heard a voice remark; “I'd say that was definitely a different day out”.

About the author Tony Annis: Have camera will travel. Over the top but not yet over the hill. Past sixty five and still alive, my get up and go has not entirely got up and gone – like good whisky, I'm still going strong. Travelling through these global villages of ours is great adventure but to me it is the people that make this wonderful world, as well as the exotic places that I love to visit. See you over the next horizon, Tony.

The Camino de Santiago – The More Things Change& by Alex Chang

The Camino de Santiago is a pilgrimage to the sacred tomb of Saint James located in the Northwest corner of Spain. Over a thousand years separate those first faithful footsteps and the steady stream of 21st-century pilgrims that currently wander the streets of Santiago de Compostela. The key to survival is adapting to change and over the last millennium the Camino and pilgrims have transformed in many ways.

The Camino de SantiagoIn 1993, UNESCO declared the Camino de Santiago a world heritage site. It starts from the boarder of France and works it way west to the city of Santiago de Compostela covering some 750 kilometres. Originally, pilgrims had to navigate their way using the sun, moon, stars, and even the Milky Way. Getting lost was part of the journey. Today, the trail is so clearly marked that losing your way is not really an option. With shiny traffic signs, brass and tile scallop shells, and the distinct yellow arrows you'll always be pointed to Santiago.

The Camino de SantiagoThe oldest documentation of the Compostelana, the official certificate of having completed the pilgrimage, was delivered to André le Breton in the Capilla del Rey de Francia and dates back to 1321. Almost 700 years later, you can still request the Compostelana certificate, complete with your name in Latin. To be eligible you must have either walked or ridden a horse for the last 100 kilometres or bicycled the last 200 kilometres. The demand for this document has grown such that there is now a special Pilgrim's Office that will attend to your petition.

The Camino de Santiago

In the 12th Century, a French Monk named Aymeric Picaud wrote a comprehensive book detailing the route from the French border to Santiago de Compostela. This was actually the first guidebook ever written and recommended safe havens to sleep and eat, warned of potential dangers, such as thieves and bandits, and described the various monuments, relics, and holy sites that were along the way. The Codex Calixtinus broke up the Camino into 13 convenient stages that covered the entire 750 kilometres in less than 2 weeks. Today, you still see pilgrims thumbing through their guidebooks looking for all sorts of practical information regarding accommodations, restaurants and explanations of the countless sights. The books are also filled with more modern conveniences, such as Internet cafes, pharmacies, and swimming pools! However, the biggest difference now is that most books recommend the crossing of Spain in a less exhausting 30 days to reach Santiago.

La Rioja

To accommodate for the faithful and weary in the middle ages, albergues or shelters were created along the route and sponsored by the Church, nobles, and royalty. Here travellers could rest their tired bones on a bed of straw, perhaps warm themselves by a fire, and have a sip of wine. In the 21st century, there continues to be a network of public albergues run by the government and private associations related to the Camino. These places are in high demand in the summer and are fitted with rows and rows of bunk beds, showers (some even with hot water) and perhaps a small kitchen to receive you after a long day of walking. And, yes, you'll still find a sip of wine!

La Rioja

Upon arriving to the great Cathedral of Santiago, medieval pilgrims would break down with tears of joy as they finally reached their destination. Overwhelmed from surviving their journey, they would embrace the statue of Santiago and give thanks for their arrival. Today, the emotions still run high. Pilgrims, who were previously strangers, hug and cry as they make their way into the Plaza Obradoiro and share that first look of the Cathedral's ornate Baroque façade. Together they wait nervously in line to give the Apostle a hug and perform the required pilgrim, just as millions of pilgrims have done before.

Punte ReinaDespite a thousand years, the Camino de Santiago remains and its pilgrims continue to flow into Santiago. The Camino is an unforgettable experience that creates a special bond and camaraderie among all those who have walked it. In a world where things change so quickly, the Camino de Santiago is so refreshing as things really haven't changed so much after all!

About the author: my name is Alex Chang and I first walked the Camino de Santiago in 1999. You could say it was a life changing experience. Since then, I became a tour guide and have led over 40 groups (some 500 pilgrims) along the Way with various tour companies. Year after year, it has been amazing to repeatedly see the effect the Camino has on touching people's lives. It truly is a magical experience. Born and raised in the United States, I am lucky to call two places home as I have been living in Spain for over seven years. Alex currently owns a tour company based in Bilbao, Spain that offers small group walking tours along the Camino de Santiago, the Basque Country, and Andalucia, Spain. He can be contacted by e-mail: info@frescotours.com or visit his website: www.frescotours.com

Long Riddle, Short Answer by David Churchman

RIDDLE: What do Schultz's 1000 Places [worldwide] to See Before You Die, Villani's 100 Best Art Towns in America, the American Association of Retired Person's list of the 15 best retirement towns in the US, and Time's list of the 5 best repertoire theatres in America have in common?

ANSWER: Ashland, Oregon

EXPLANATION: Population 20,000 (6000 university students). Nine theatres and sixty art and antique galleries in a scenic valley with year-round outdoor recreational opportunities draw 500,000 tourists a year, 25 per resident compared with 4 per resident to London.

On Interstate 5, 350 miles north of San Francisco, 300 miles south of Portland, an anomaly among the dairy farms, fruit orchards, vineyards in and between the Cascade and Siskiyou mountains that forms the Rogue Valley. It began as a stage stop, became a timber, mining and railway town, and has taken on a New Age ethos. Weather is generally mild, although summer days can be hot. Precipitation averages 19″ per year almost entirely between December and February.

Ashland PlazaThe downtown (all eight blocks) could serve as the set for Our Town. It centres on the block-on-a-side triangular Plaza and adjacent Lithia Park, which becomes more natural as one follows its creek into the mountains. Only one building is over three stories; it and 28 others are on the National Register of Historic Places. The town owns both a fibre optic network and a ski resort at nearby Mt. Ashland. A commission awards a bronze plaque to the “tree of the year.” There never will be a shopping mall in Ashland. McDonalds went broke.

Not that you will starve. Do not limit yourself to the Plaza, East Main and North Main. There are 90-odd restaurants (an astounding one per 225 residents): usually two or more choices for most cuisines including Chinese, Deli, English, French, Indian, Italian, Japanese, Mexican, Middle Eastern, Seafood, Spanish, Thai, and Vegetarian as well as bakery, coffee, fast food, ice cream and sandwich shops and microbreweries, pubs and sports bars. Several have been featured in Gourmet Magazine.

You won't have to camp out (although you can). However, reservations are essential despite Elizebethan Theatreover sixty B&B's in turn-of-the-century Craftsman and Victorian homes that characterize the town and some twenty hotels and motels, including several in the downtown area.

The Shakespeare Festival is the big draw. Each February through October 60-70 actors backed by 400 staff (50 costumers alone) offer about 775 performances of eleven plays in three theatres. The goal is “fresh and bold interpretations of classic and contemporary plays in repertory, shaped by the diversity of our American culture, using Shakespeare as our standard and inspiration.” It started in 1935 when Angus Bowmer, drama teacher at the then state normal school proposed using the town's abandoned Chautaqua to stage Merchant of Festival PosterVenice and Twelfth Night. The town council stipulated boxing matches to cover the expected deficit, hoping Bowmer would not accept such an undignified linkage. Bowmer found the idea in keeping with the bawdiness of Elizabethan theatre and accepted. Ironically, the plays covered the deficit of the boxing. The Festival has continued ever since, with a few years off while Bowmer served in World War II. In 2007, the Festival will present As You Like It, On the Razzle (a variation on The Matchmaker aka Hello Dolly), The Cherry Orchard, Gem of the Ocean, and Tartuffe in the modernistic Bowmer. Three new American plays, Rabbit Hole, Tracy's Tiger, and Distracted will be in the intimate New Theatre. Romeo and Juliet, Taming of the Shrew, and Tempest will be in the half-timbered, outdoor Elizabethan. Bring a picnic

There are half-a-dozen other theatres in town, about a dozen live music venues, and a band shell in Lithia Park where events are frequent. The Brit Festival in nearby Jacksonville features internationally known blues, folk, jazz, popular, operatic and symphonic artists. The January Blues Festival, February Nature Film Festival, March Chocolate Festival, April Independent Film Festival, May Mountain Bike Festival, June “Feast of Will,” July Independence Day celebration, August book fair for local authors, September Flea Market, October Halloween Parade, November Festival of Lights, and December Dickens dinner and carolling reflect some of Ashland's many personalities.

Ski day or night, snowboard, ice skate, skateboard, bicycle, swim, play tennis, golf, or volleyball in season. Run with the Hash House Harriers. Joust with the Society for Creative Anachronism. Take in the Schneider Art and Science Works museums. Explore antique shops, art galleries, and boutiques. Indulge yourself at one of five spas. Spend a quiet hour or two in the town or university library. There are three book publishers and half a dozen booksellers-no chains of course.

Take a backstage tour. Bring a picnic to the free “Green Show” of music and dance just before summer evening plays. Come during the June Hot Air Balloon Festival in Grants Pass, or in September for the Pendleton Rodeo, and make a day trip to Crater Lake. Visit the town's two wineries-and others in the surrounding Rogue Valley Appellation. Artisanal foods, particularly cheeses, chocolates and fruits are popular gifts. Raft, kayak, or jet boat the Rogue River, itself divided into wild, scenic, and recreational sections. Fish, sail, or swim the local lakes. Hike part of the 4400-kilometre Pacific Crest Trail that runs along the southern edge of town north to Canada or south to Mexico.

Photo credits: Photos 1 and 4 courtesy of Ashland Chamber of Commerce. Photos 2 (T. Charles Erickson) and 3 (David Cooper) courtesy Oregon Shakespeare Festival.

David Churchman About the author: David is professor emeritus of Behavioural Science and of Humanities, California State University, and author of over 100 books and articles including Why We Fight: Theories of Human Aggression and Conflict (2005). He has been a Fulbright Scholar in Cyprus and Ukraine, a Malone Scholar in Bahrain and Saudi Arabia, worked in Australia, Singapore, and Morocco, and visited over 100 countries. He is co-founder and treasurer emeritus of Wildlife on Wheels, which provides live wild animal education programs to 100,000 Los Angeles basin children each year. He is married and has one child. Picture was taken of David and his family in the Raffles, Singapore (which is not the place it used to be, unfortunately.)

For more information, see: www.ashland.or.us or www.ashlandchamber.com, www.abbnet.com (B&B's), www.sorc.com (hotels and theatres). www.filmsite.org/afi100films.html (film festival), and www.osfashland.org (Shakespeare Festival). Information is readily available f rom a booth on the Plaza during the summer and all year from the local newspaper or the Chamber of Commerce is off the Plaza.

Survey Corner: Forbes Magazine Most Dangerous Destinations 2006

Forbes Magazine Most Dangerous Destinations 2006 (in alphabetical order) and the previous two years. It's interesting to see which countries have consistently been on Forbes' list over the last three years: Afghanistan, the DRC, Haiti, Iraq, Liberia, Somalia and Zimbabwe – four out of seven countries that are in Africa.

Burundi and Pakistan made it on to the list for two years in 2004 and 2006, and the Sudan and the Ivory Coast made it on to the list for two years in 2005 and 2006. Newcomers to the 2006 list include Georgia, Chechnya and PNG, whilst Yemen, Krygystan and Togo all made brief one year appearances but do not appear in 2006.

Where would be on your list? The Beetle's list would include countries like Iraq and Afghanistan which she hasn't been to, but would seem sensible to avoid, given the amount of conflict taking place there – the risk of being captured and beheaded or the embarrassment (and cost not to mention inconvenience) of having to be rescued by the SAS; please don't go! Only Port Moresby in Papua New Guinea which she has recently visited three times would get her veto – this is not a nice or safe place but the rest of PNG is a complete delight.

On further thought, it seems a little unfair to say that an entire country is worthy of being on the worlds most dangerous list – with the possible exception of Iraq and Afghanistan, where the Beetle personally believes that tourists should not go – until it is safe and there really is peace. The Beetle used to live and work in Karachi in Pakistan and has travelled the country extensively, and would rate the majority of Pakistan as being a warm and very beautiful and welcoming place – Karachi is hard going and the North West Frontier does feels lawless. Antananarivo, the capital of Madagascar similarly felt unsafe, as did Nairobi to the Beetle.

Where would be on your list? Write in and let the Beetle know.

  • Forbes Most Dangerous Destinations 2004
  • Afghanistan Burundi
  • Democratic Republic of the Congo
  • Haiti
  • Iraq
  • Liberia
  • Pakistan
  • Somalia
  • Zimbabwe
  • Yemen
  • Forbes Most Dangerous Destinations 2005
  • Afghanistan
  • Cote d'Ivoire
  • Democratic Republic of the Congo
  • Haiti
  • Iraq
  • Liberia
  • Somalia
  • Sudan
  • Zimbabwe
  • Kyrgyzstan
  • Togo
  • Top 5 Cruise Destinations: 2006 Forbes Most Dangerous Destinations 2006
  • Afghanistan
  • Burundi
  • Cote d'Ivoire
  • Democratic Republic of the Congo
  • Georgia
  • Haiti
  • Iraq
  • Liberia
  • Pakistan
  • Papua New Guinea
  • Russia (Chechnya)
  • Somalia
  • Sudan
  • Zimbabwe