Nicaragua was colonised by the Spanish and has the old
colonial buildings and cobbled streets to show; it has the
oldest cathedral in Central America, and Granada is reputed
to be the oldest city on the western hemisphere. Nicaragua
has also had more than its share of destruction through
earthquakes and revolutions. Managua, the capital was hit
particularly hard by the 1972 earthquake which pretty much
wiped out what was the centre of town.
This tour takes in the “best” of Nicaragua
in 10 days. It is not a big country so everything is within
easy reach and there is a reasonable bus system. Everyone
seems to agree that Ometepe Island is the highlight of
Nicaragua, followed by Granada. No one much seems to like
Managua, saying it is a bit dodgy. You could do most of
this itinerary as day trips from Managua, but the Beetle
recommends that you get out of Managua – not such a
great place – and stay over in different places.
Day 1: fly into Managua. Managua, the capital of
Nicaragua is on the southern shore of Lake Managua. Settle
into your hotel/hostel and explore. Managua itself is a bit
of a sad city. Despite the new building boom, it is not
hard to see that the centre is still astonishingly
devastated from the 1972 earthquake, so it a curious place
as there is no real centre any more, it is spread all over,
wherever funding allows new building. The Intercom hotel is
something of a landmark, it is built in the shape of one of
the old Mayan pyramids, some consider this as the centre –
it was the only building that survived the 1972 earthquake.
The lake is brown and has waves and looks like the sea, but
it is dirty and not nice. Things to see include the Plaza
de la República, the newly renovated cathedral which is now
a museum, the Peace Park where you can see the giant
lighthouse, and the tank and thousands of guns mummified in
spray-on concrete. Near the cathedral is the grave of
Carlos Fonseca, the founder of the Sandinistas, the Palcio
Nacional, and the new Casa Presedencial. There are several
museums, including a Museum of the Revolution. There are
some places to swim, in the lagunas that are volcanic
crater lakes. People tend not to stay in Managua, they
usually head straight out to Granada – note Granada not
Leon. There is a good bus network though, so getting around
is easy. If you have time, take a morning bus to the Laguna
de Xiloá, a crater lake that is a popular swimming spot
about 20km north west of Managua and have a swim. Return to
Managua.
Day 2: do a day trip to Leon. Take the bus to
Leon, north of Managua and not far. Leon allegedly has
Central America's oldest cathedral that took over 200
years to rebuild. It has some large paintings of the 12
Stations of the Cross and also houses the tomb of Rubén
Darío, the poet. There are monuments to the revolution and
Sandanista murals all over Leon. Leon is smaller than
Granada and will not take more than a half day to look
around, have some lunch and return to Managua. You can
wander the streets and admire the colonial churches and the
whitewashed adobe buildings with red roofs. There’s
plenty of info about the 1978-79 revolution too for those
interested in some of Nicaragua’s past. If you find,
like the Beetle, that there is not a lot to keep you in
Leon, then take the bus back to Managua and then on to
Granada.
Day 3: Take a bus from Managua to El Trapiche,
17km southeast of Managua. El Trapiche is a place where
large outdoor pools have been formed by near by natural
springs. It is quite pretty as there are gardens and
restaurants. Have lunch and have a splash. You may meet
some tourists here! From here, continue to another 5kms
southeast to the Massaya Volcano Nat Park. It is only 23kms
south east of Managua and also 20 mins drive from Granada.
The volcano is still active and you can see (and smell!)
the steam coming out of it. There are some hot springs, the
usual sort of volcano stuff. There's also a big market
at Massaya where you can buy hammocks etc. When you have
had a look around, take the bus to Granada and overnight
there.
Day 4: Granada is only around 45kms away from
Managua. It lies at the base of the Mombacho volcano and is
on Lake Nicaragua so it has a constant cool breeze. Granada
has cobbled streets and you will see lots of Spanish style
colonial architecture, the cathedral, the Colon Park and
Mombacho. It took the Beetle less than a day to visit and
explore Granada, although she did not go on the lake. Some
say that Granada is the oldest city in the western
hemisphere. If you are a bird watcher, there are over 350
volcanic islands in Lake Managua. The islands that people
visit are called Las Islets de Nicaragua where you can see
nesting cormorants etc. You can go kayaking here if that is
your thing.
Day 5: take a trip out onto Lake Nicaragua and
visit some of the islands. San Pablo has a small fortress
built by the Spaniards to protect against British pirates
in the 18th century, Isla Zapatera is a national park and
has some old stone statues. Isla del Muerto also has tombs
and rock carvings to see.
Day 6 and 7: From Granada take the bus to San
Jorge, near Rivas it’s about 4 hours by bus and take
the ferry out to visit Ometepe Island, the largest
freshwater island in the world (complete with fresh water
sharks!) Ometepe is the highlight for most people visiting
Nicaragua. Once there, you can lie around on the beaches or
if you are feeling slightly more energetic, you can climb
up Volcano Maderas. Take the bus from San Jorge to San Juan
del Sur on the Pacific coast.
Day 8, 9,10: laze on the beach at San Juan del
Sur. Day 10 take the bus back up to Managua to fly back
home.
Alternative: there is a five-hour boat trip down the Río
Escondido to Bluefields, on the Caribbean coast. Most
travellers reckon that this is not worth it and the Beetle
has not seen many good reports about Bluefields….but,
the Corn Islands in the Caribbean just off Bluefields are
worth the trip. To get there, the best way is to fly from
Managua – around $100 return. Little Corn Island in
particular gets some rave reviews for sunning and
swimming.