What is it: Lassa fever is an acute viral illness that occurs in West Africa. It is highly contagious and occurs mainly in the dry season in West Africa, particularly Guinea, Liberia, Nigeria, Sierra Leone, and the DRC.

How do I get it: Rodents shed the virus in urine and droppings which means that the virus can be transmitted through direct contact with these materials, through touching objects or eating food contaminated with these materials, or through cuts or sores.

What happens if I get it: Symptoms of Lassa Fever typically occur 1-3 weeks after the patient comes into contact with the virus. These include: fever, pain behind the chest wall, sore throat, back pain, cough, abdominal pain, vomiting, diarrhoea and a rash. After four weeks occur: bleeding, ascites and shock. Death occurs in 50 % of patients.

Diagnose and treatment: the virus can be detected in blood and urine. The anti-viral agent Ribavarin can be used, otherwise it is a question of symptom control and intensive care.

How can I avoid contracting Lassa fever: avoid contact with rodents.

Judy from the US write in to tell the Beetle about her recent visit to Siem Reap. This is what she says:

My husband and I were in Siem Reap for the full moon 8 Nov 03. Candles were set floating in the Siem Reap River which flows through the village. It was an awesome night scene. Boat races were also held at this time with competing teams from all over Cambodia.

One Swiss couple told us of an encounter they had upon entering the country. The left Bangkok by train to the border, then transferred to a tuk-tuk to cross over to a waiting truck. While taking the truck ride to SR they had their money and cell phone taken. Some American girls said they had taken the boat ride from Phnom Penh and had a good experience, including sightings of the Vietnamese boat people.

Siem Reap is a very safe place in the evenings by our experiences. The temples are a sight to behold…still in an unspoiled state. Take an extra passport photo to put on your temple permit as the photo queue can be long. The helium balloon ride is a great bargain $11.00 US to get a wonderful view of the Angkor Wat and nearby temples.

Sunrise and sunset are times to get pictures with the Angkor Wat reflecting in the moat waters. The guides suggest you take a hike up a very steep hill and then upon a temple to get a view of the sunset over the countryside; not the Angkor Wat. We rode by tuk-tuk to Chong Khneas and took a boat ride to see the Vietnamese floating village which was quite interesting and photographic.

The food was excellent and varied, especially like the Cambodian noodles. This was just the unspoiled area that we wanted to visit. Being from the Midwest US we had arranged a guide for 1 1/2 days and spent two days on our own. I think you need time just to sit and reflect on what a sight you are witnessing, Ta Prohm with the trees growing out of the stones and Angkor Thom were impressive.

The latter part of the flight over was terrific, with snow on the Gran Sasso first and then, towards the end, there was the fabulous spectacle of the Aeolian Islands with Stromboli puffing away. Etna, on Sicily itself, was puffing a bit but nothing to suggest the major eruption it had the next winter. We flew past it and into Catania.

I was pleased to find that I could get a bus direct from the airport to Siracusa without going into Catania and only had about fifty minutes to wait with a view of Etna to while away the time. More of the Sicilian coast than I had expected was spoilt by industry and far less by tourism and to be honest I did not particularly enjoy the bus journey to Siracusa. Fortunately it was only about an hour. I had booked for the first two nights at the Bel-Sit and I had seen where it was on the small map in the Rough Guide. Would I be able to recognise it on the ground though and save time going to the terminus and back? I was quite proud of myself as I alighted from the coach, got out my case, helped an attractive woman out with hers and watched the bus leave. My pride lasted all of twenty-three seconds until I discovered that the case was not mine! Somehow my Italian came up to telling the woman I had helped what had happened and I was given a lift in the car picking her up to pursue the bus. Strangely the conversation with the woman driver was in the neutral language of Spanish! There at its terminus was the bus and there, outside it were my case, some very crestfallen passengers who had of course lost theirs, the driver who looked as though he would rather be somewhere else – anywhere else in fact – and the inevitable police inspector. Great was the jubilation, as G.F. Handel said! This ended very well for me with a lift back up the hill and the first woman escorting me – and carrying my case – to the Bel-Sit; a bit more than I had deserved perhaps!

Two areas demand to be visited. These are the old part of the city at Ortygia, where the bus terminus was, and the Parco Archeológico. I went down to Ortygia that same evening, just too late for the tourist office opening times, and enjoyed a brief stroll round and a good pizza. It was quite good enough to call me back the next morning but, other than getting the map and literature I wanted from the tourist office, I was just a shade disappointed. Ortygia is near enough an island and not a very big one; I had not realised that the point, which should have given a good sea view, was out of bounds to visitors because of the requirements of the army. In general the area should probably be regarded as a must see by anyone who has not been to any of the beautiful old towns on the Italian mainland but, unusually, I was as much struck by the displayed poverty of some areas as anything. The cathedral is very interesting, though scarcely beautiful, from the outside with bits being part of an earlier Greek temple. However, contrary to my usual view in southern Europe, the interior, which contains some strikingly beautiful columns, provides a better spectacle. Taken as a whole I preferred Ortygia at night and the jury was still out on Siracusa as I took a bus and then a walk to the entrance to the Parco Archeológico.

The jury did not stay out long, however. This is terrific and, for a person like me who has never been to Greece, it was truly magic. I do not mean to belittle the sights in Sicily by saying this. The Greek remains in Sicily are regarded by experts as being of top order. I did classics in the sixth form and I well remember the campaigns of Athens and Sparta and the importance of Sicily in general and Siracusa in particular, in the Peloponnesian War. The splendid and vast Greek theatre here dates back to the fifth century BC and I found it quite spellbinding. Near it were the old Latomie del Paradiso, quarries and later the prison for Athenian prisoners of war. Paradise indeed? Even in February the heat would have suggested a very different theological area, particularly for those who had to work in the quarries. Particularly outstanding in the view is the Orecchio di Dionissio [ear of Dionysus,] a large cavern well up the cliff. Not far away is the Roman Amphitheatre, which became so much used for blood sports that another smaller one had to be built back in the town for drama.

Siracusa would have repaid a longer visit.

David Cross was a keen walker, particularly on mountains before he developed serious heart problems in 1995. He has now adapted his holidays to what he is able to do and we are presenting his account of 12 days in Sicily over this and the coming months. Next episode – Agrigento

Can you spare 2 weeks + ? Would you like a working
holiday in a fantastic place?

We are currently looking for volunteer medical staff for
our clinic in India.

Agricultural Work with Planet
Drum Foundation in Bahia de Caraquez, Manabi, Ecuador

Planet Drum Foundation is a non-profit, grass roots
environmental organisation based in San Francisco,
California, USA. Planet Drum supports projects that address
environmental and sustainability issues. Their projects are
carried out by an international staff, volunteers, and
local citizens. Specific projects in Ecuador include:
replanting an urban park on the site of a large landslide,
establishing model community composting centres, seeding
steep slopes to prevent landslides, creating wildlife and
vegetation corridors, growing native plants and trees. They
are also starting up an environmental education program in
a local elementary school. No costs to volunteers,
dorm-style lodging in a large apartment. This area is
located on the coast where most amenities are available.

Madre de Selva

Madre Selva is a 5 hectare centre for research,
demonstration and education about tropical permaculture. It
is a grassroots project developed over 10 years. The
Institute is in a barrio on the edge of the buzzing
mangrove town of San Lorenzo in the North Western province
of Esmeraldas. It employs local staff and works with local
communities. The organisation is looking for someone to
help integrate and improve the current financial management
system, liaise with staff to research existing system and
plans, streamline operations, develop plans to generate
income and develop a business plan for Madre Selva.

Sally is British and has lived in the UK all her life. International travel as part of her work took her to many countries, including Portugal. She fell in love with the place and decided to sell her beautiful cottage in Malmsbury, Wiltshire, and relocate to Lisbon. In this article, she tells us about exploring Cascais, in Portugal.

So, what have I been up to? Well I have been exploring Cascais – I had to have a coffee bar to replace the one I used in Alfama and so far have found two that are really nice. The first one, Chocolat, is in the centre and is air-conditioned (a boon in the summer heat wave) and although more pricey than others, is quite glamorous. It does all sorts of herbal and fruit teas as well as every variety of coffee. It sells snacks and cakes and does great scones – a favourite being cinnamon. The second one is up a back street not far from the main square and is called Mise en Scene. This again does lovely teas and coffees and wonderful savouries. It has tables outside and inside its decorated in a cross between Mediterranean and Indian styles. Very good for vegetarians too. On Sundays I drive along the coast road to Casa da Guia – a large mansion with coffee bars, restaurants and shops with a view of the sea – to get the Sunday papers and then sit looking out at sea reading all the news. The service is atrocious – you wait ages to order, then ages for it to arrive and then a lifetime waiting for the bill and change but the view is worth it.

Throughout the heat wave the most popular places to go were the shopping centres because of the air conditioning. The beaches were, as you would expect, very busy but the guys on the beach that I use, said that it was still quiet compared to last year. I still get my bed for 2 Euros which is great value. It’s a nice beach with bars, ice cream kiosks and a ski school behind. You can sit and watch the water skiers fall in and the antics of the kids on the banana boat as well as all the other yachts, fishing boats and in the distance the big tankers on their way into Lisbon. Someone has also started boat trips up the coast to Lisbon (on Sundays) and to Carcavelos (about 10 minutes by road) in a tall ship. Apparently you can join in the work on the boat or just enjoy the trip.

The Marina is an odd place – obviously it has all the flash boats etc. and the shops, bars, restaurants etc. but doesn’t seem to be doing very well. I was told by a friend that the mooring fees here in Cascais are the most expensive in Europe!! May be that’s the reason then. There have also been a spate of late night muggings which have caused problems.

Along the coast road just up from Boca d’Inferno (Hell’s Mouth) is a great hot dog stand with amazing views out over the sea. Very enterprising operation run on solar power with tables and chairs, umbrellas etc. but no loo! They play good music too. Unfortunately as I do not like hot dogs I have not actually tried them but my local friends recommend them highly.

Cascais has a lovely park with a museum, ponds and a mini zoo. Very popular on Sundays with families and obviously with school parties. The areas behind the main streets are also very interesting with the old traditional properties and some of them have the most fabulous gardens – some times parts of it remind me very much of Malmsbury – the streets are just as narrow and there is a crazy one way system that still manages to confuse me and I end up somewhere I have never been before but it doesn’t matter as it’s a great way of finding new areas.

Living down by the coast is really nice. Although Cascais is a holiday resort, when you live here you really don’t notice it that much because the tourists tend to be concentrated by the seafront and the main square, although it has been pretty obvious that this year has been very quiet. The beach I use in previous years would have three or four guys working the beach, doing the beds, the canoes, the banana boat and water skiing and then about four or five behind the bar and waiting on the tables. This year there have been two on the beach (one finished two weeks ago); and two waiting tables (one finished about three weeks ago) and the rest is done by the husband and wife who own the beach bar. August was busy because that’s when the whole country is on holiday – they even stop charging to come across the bridges as an incentive for people.

If you’d like to contact Sally, she can be reached by e-mail on: pethybs@hotmail.com

Mission Antarctica set up by Robert Swan after walking to both South & North Pole. Antarctica is a truly unique place, but not as white and pristine as you would first imagine, and Robert was amazed at the rubbish problem.

Antarctica is not owned by anyone, however 44 signatory countries administer the continent. The treaty was set up so that it could be looked after for the future and states that everything brought in to the continent must be taken out, but obviously this was not happening.

In 1992 Robert was the keynote speaker at the first Earth Summit in Rio and spoke about the rubbish problem in Antarctica. With their approval he then set up a project to do something about it, choosing the Russian Base of Bellingshausen, as it was one of the worse areas. Also, it was accessible to visiting ships and had a runway nearby, allowing both easy access for research into the removal and aiding the difficult logistics.

For a number of years a team of Russian volunteers cut, compacted and moved the scrap onto the beach, stockpiling it to ease the removal later.

During December & January 2001/2002 the Ship “Anne Boye” was chartered and sailed to King George island to remove the scrap. A small team of 5 from the UK, together with the Russian volunteers then managed to move 1,000 tons of scrap from the beach onto the ship, all within 3 weeks.

The site was then levelled by JCB and within that week, the penguins and seals were back on the beach, oblivious to its former history. The waste was then taken to Uruguay for recycling, with the Dangerous waste like Asbestos, fuels and oils, taken to the UK for specialist disposal.

The Yacht “2041” (so named as this is the renewal date of the Antarctic Treaty) played an important role in the operation, as the main aim of the project was worldwide education.

For the first time ever, crew would be flown into the Antarctic to join the yacht for 8-10 day voyages, experiencing firsthand the cleanup, together with the awesome beauty in areas, as yet, untouched or visited by man.

Young people and teachers from 19 different countries sailed onboard Voyages 1 and 2. The aim was to get young people interested now, in preserving Antarctica, which would mean that in their later years when they were working and in possible leadership roles, they would remember this and take positive action to look after the Continent.

Voyage 3 allowed Robert, together with the sponsors, to observe firsthand the cleanup in operation. Voyage 4 was especially for young underprivileged South Africans. They had never even seen the sea before, let alone ice, when they visited the Continent. The final voyage sailed much deeper into the southern peninsular regions, observing how other bases are dealing with their waste. New territories were explored, before returning to S. America ahead of the winter, now closing in. The yacht had now sailed over 4,000M during our 3-Month Antarctic Expedition.

After resupplying in Argentina, the yacht sailed 1,400M to South Georgia, for a two week Expedition to see how the wildlife was coping with the waste left in the numerous abandoned Whaling Stations.

From the near extinction of the seals during the whaling era, they have made a spectacular recovery, and now they rule the very stations that nearly pushed them to the brink of extinction on South Georgia. There are now estimated to be over 1.5 million Fur seals resident on the Island, as well as thousands of Elephant Seals.

South Georgia is truly one of the world’s most spectacular wildlife habitats. This is mostly due to its desolation and the fact that man finds it so very hard to reach it – even in this day and age.

King penguins gather to breed in massive numbers, due to its year round access to the sea. On this beach alone there were estimated to be over Half a Million penguins!

On arrival in Cape Town, after a round trip of over 12,000M, the yacht was lifted out the water to be transported overland to Johannesburg, for The World Summit on Sustainable Development, where Robert addressed the United Nations on the success of the project in Antarctica. The yacht become a “floating petition” containing the names of thousands of young people who have pledged their support to the project on preserving & managing Antarctica

During all the Expeditions the crew filmed 25 hours of DV footage, using high quality digital video, together with over 5,000 digital images and 5,000 film images on Transparency. The images were complied, using the onboard video edit suite, onto CD’s for the Participants, to take back to their respective countries to show how the project had succeeded in the waste removal.

Andrew Dare is now conducting multimedia presentations, which explains the whole project from it start in Africa, the cleanup in Antarctica & the return to Africa, via South Georgia.

If you would like further details of this amazing expedition and project or to obtain images, please contact the Yacht Captain, Andrew Dare, e-mail: andydare@bigfoot.com

The World’s Newest Countries

Country (Independence Date)

1. East Timor (May 20, 2002)
2. Palau (October 1, 1994)
3. Czech (Republic January 1, 1993)
4. Eritrea (May 24, 1993)
5. Slovakia (January 1, 1993)
6. Yugoslavia (April 27, 1992)
7. Bosnia and Herzegovina (March 1, 1992)
8. Kazakhstan (December 16, 1991)
9. Turkmenistan (October 27, 1991)
10. Armenia (September 21, 1991)
11. Macedonia, The Former Yugoslav Republic of (September 17, 1991)
12. Tajikistan (September 9,1991)
13. Lithuania (September 6, 1991)
14. Uzbekistan (September 1, 1991)
15. Kyrgyztan (August 31, 1991)
16. Moldova (August 27, 1991)
17. Belarus (August 25, 1991)
18. Russia (August 24, 1991)

Source: www.aneki.com

It’s been called Europe’s hottest capital. Slick advertising campaigns have championed the city’s famed nightlife. But there is more to Reykjavik than pubs and clubs. Reykjavik held the prestigious title European City of Culture in the year 2000, a welcome recognition of the energetic and colourful cultural life of Reykjavik.

Reykjavik has the best of both worlds: the qualities of a modern, forward-looking society are complemented by a close connection to the beautiful and unspoilt nature in the city’s vicinity. The world’s northernmost capital is framed by the majestic Mt. Esja, which keeps a watchful eye on the city, and the blue waters of Faxafloi Bay. On a sunny day, the mystical Snaefellsjokull glacier appears crystal-like and baby blue on the western horizon, as the mountainous moonscapes spread to the southeast.

Reykjavik is a great place to visit, whether for a restful relaxation, a spot of unbridled fun or generally to recharge one’s batteries: energy, safety, health and wellness – Reykjavik is indeed Europe’s hottest capital.

Reykjavik is spread across a peninsula whit a panoramic view of the mountains and the Atlantic Ocean on almost all sides. In the summer, you can sit by the harbour at midnight and watch the sun dip slightly below the horizon before it makes its way up again.

The population of the city is about 170,000 when you include the outlying areas and smaller boroughs surrounding the capital. One gets a general feeling of cosmopolitan sophistication built on rock solid foundations.

Ása Kolka Haraldsdóttir works for the Reykjavik tourist board and can be contacted on: asakolka@visitreykjavik.is

LAB is running a working and Volunteering in Latin America workshop in London on Saturday 21st February from 10.30am to 5.30pm. From coffee brigades and tree planting to literacy teaching and human rights work, the day will explore the possibilities for being something other than a tourist in Latin America: practical advice and information.

On 13^th March 2004, there will be a workshop in London on Tourism in Latin America: what is the social impact of the growth in tourism on Latin America and the Caribbean? A thought provoking day will examine the politics of travel and is aimed at first time travellers to the region as well as veterans.

For more information, see ww.lab.org or contact them on: 020 7430 0542.

Meeting news from our branches around the world.

This is an extract from a great website that gives visitors to Peru lots of invaluable information about Peru, how to get around, visas, museums etc. It is a not for profit organisation that is aimed at encouraging people to visit Peru.

1. Do you carry a first aid kit?

2. Are your guides trained in first aid and C.P.R?

3. Do you feed your porters and what do you give them?

4. Are your porters given proper tents and equipment?

5. What is the difficult level of the Inca Trail?

6. What is the meal plan for each day?

7. Do you supply us with 3 season tents?

8. Are your guides specialist in birds, plants, and culture?

9. What is the maximum weight your porters Carry? ( 20 – 25 Kilos )

10. How much do you pay your porters?

11. Do you follow the regulations? Do you have a printed copy?

12. What do you do with waste from the trip and do you use plastic bottles?

For more information, see:http://www.perutouristinformation.com/

Find out what happened at previous meetings in London and about future events

Saturday 6th December 2003 London meeting

Our first speaker was Paul Goldstein whose talk was entitled “Africa: An adventurous wilderness”. Paul has led many tours into sub Saharan Africa for adventure tour operators over the last few years. We started with shots of Victoria Falls and White water rafting, followed by bathing in a Kenyan mud spring! Paul’s passion is for the wildlife of Africa and we saw some wonderful pictures of lion, leopard, cheetahs and jackals. But the stars of the show for the globies audience were the mountain gorillas. Paul finished up in India with a great shot of a lion taking it easy in the middle of the road.

After the break John Pilkington gave an intriguing talk on his journey up the Mekong river to its source in Tibet. We started off in the markets of Saigon, not a place for vegetarians! John followed the river’s course but not always by travelling on it, he also used local trucks that served as busses. As he headed north into these Buddhist lands we saw Buddhist architecture and playful orange clad monks who thought nothing of playing with a mountain gun left over from a previous war. John took an unusual route over the border into China, he hitched a ride on a Chinese cargo boat delivering noodles and Red Bull! When the Mekong was no longer navigable John took to jeeps and finally onto horseback to become the first Britain to reach the source of the Mekong. (Find out more about John at http://www.pilk.net/lecture.mekong.html)

Saturday 3rd January 2004 London meeting

Our first meeting of 2004 was a series of 4 mini talks given by Globetrotters members. Many thanks to all those who took part, some at very short notice who made it a very enjoyable afternoon.

Our first speaker was London organiser Dick Curtis whose talk covered part of his “Gap year” from teaching. Dick slides took us through India, beginning as most Indian journeys do in the capital Delhi from where he took a train to Kashmir, all very exotic, especially to someone who had not ventured beyond Europe before. Dick’s wonderful photos showed us houseboats, temples and the very photogenic people. Dick met up with some other travellers and with them trekked to Ladakh taking in some beautiful mountain scenery and travelling from Hindu India to Buddhist Ladakh.

Our second speaker was club Membership Secretary Kevin Brackley, who took us to a now virtually impossible to reach destination, Saudi Arabia. His journey started in conservative Riyadh, with its fortress and modern Faisal Tower, then north to Sakaka where he showed us the 6000 year old standing stones in the desert. His trip then followed the old Hejaz Railway through the desert to Medina. We saw beautiful red desert colours, including slides of rocks carved by wind and sand and the spectacular Nabatean city of Maidan Saleh. At Al-Ula we saw old locomotives from the railway abandoned in the desert, before arriving via Medina at Globe Square in cosmopolitan Jeddah on the Red sea.

After the break Martin Wright showed us a glimpse of his marathon cycle ride to Australia. Martin illustrated his trip with great photos and narrative, particularly of some of his ailments along the way! He showed us eastern Turkey, before crossing into Iran, the photos of the tiled mosques at Esfahan were superb. Martin couldn’t get a visa for Pakistan so had to back track before ending up in Nepal and then via some hard uphill cycling into Tibet and Lhasa. He continued down through Indochina before crossing to Australia, where the “Pommie on a bike” was made very welcome, especially in places where according to road signs the population was outnumbered by sheep or flies.

Our last speaker was Globetrotters Legacy Coordinator Jeannie Copeland, who showed us a trip she led in Iceland for Ramblers. Starting in Reykjavik with its colourful houses and lake she travelled up the west coast to Akureyri, where some of her group made the boat trip to the Arctic circle island of Grimsey. Husavik on Iceland’s north coast was the chance for the group to try whale watching. Jeannie’s photos showed the group climbing mountains in a tropical for Iceland, twenty degrees, before travelling through rain to Myvatn, with its rock formations such as Dimmuborgir and natural hot spring pools, great after a long days walking.

After the talks, thanks to Nadia and all those who brought food and drink, we enjoyed the annual Globetrotters New Year party.

Future meetings

Saturday 7th February

Chris Bradley — Walking Wadi Hadramaut [Yemen] – a 550 mile solo unsupported trek and first westerner and Rupert Attlee — The Trail to Titicaca – a 7000 mile cycle adventure through S.America

Saturday 6th March

Anthony Lambert — Railways on the Wlldside – travel on a selection of the World’s railways and Jacqui Trotter — Travelling South America – 8 months of overland and independent travel Part II

London meetings are held at The Church of Scotland, Crown Court, behind the Fortune Theatre in Covent Garden at 2.30pm the first Saturday of each month. There is no London meeting in August, but we will be back in September. For more information, you can contact the Globetrotters Info line on +44 (0) 20 8674 6229, or visit the website: www.globetrotters.co.uk

Mac’s been reviewing travel websites again and here are some of the better travel tips he’s gleaned and would like to pass on to us:

Water or sports drinks plastic bottles are often better than the traditional water bottles – they don’t leak, are usually lighter and at the end of the trip, you can throw them away (into a recycling bin, if possible) and after this, you have more room for those totally cannot afford to miss souvenirs!

Tights (panty hose) are cheap, warm and disposable and make great layers when travelling in cold places, when layering is essential.

You can keep your hair looking good for longer, ideal if you are travelling in the wilds and don’t have access to a daily shower. All you need is a small bottle of deep cleansing shampoo and a tiny bottle of coconut oil. After washing your hair, rub a tiny drop of oil into your hair. Go easy the first time to know how it looks when dry. Hair stays soft and clean looking and will keep nasty things out of hair such as lice.

From women who work at re-opened museums to hunky gym rats who worship Arnold Schwarzenegger, Afghanistan has changed in the 2 years since the ouster of the Taliban. A lot more work needs to be done, but new buildings rise from the rubble to punctuate the Kabul skyline, archeological initiatives are helping tourism, and wheelchair programs are giving mine victims a new chance in life. See the Afghanistan you never read about in the papers.

We looked at what there is to see as a tourist in Kabul and also touch on travel to other Islamic hotspots like Jordan, Turkey and Morocco.

For details of forthcoming meetings e-mail newyork@globetrotters.co.uk or register for e-mail updates, click here at our website.

New York meetings are held at The Wings Theatre, 154 Christopher Street (btw Greenwich St and Washington St), to the right of Crunch Fitness, in the Archive on the first Saturday of each month at 4 pm.