Category Archives: Main article

Our Friends Ryanair

Ryanair will not be offering flights to Eastern Europe, despite European Union expansion, according to chief executive Michael O’Leary. Potential growth on routes into Poland and nine other countries who joined the EU on 1 May sparked speculation of a pending sweep into the region by low cost carriers, but Ryanair are wary. O’Leary said: “I think Eastern Europe is over-fashionable at the moment. I think it’s a market that will develop slowly over the next year or two. There’ll be a lot of focus on a couple of sexy destinations like Prague and maybe Warsaw.” He added that Ryanair will open up to another six bases in Western Europe in the next two to four years before then maybe considering Eastern Europe.

If you’d like to write a review on Ryanair, then go to: http://www.ciao.co.uk where there are plenty of reviews of the service, booking on-line and the Ryanair website – some good, and some not so good. The good reviews include comments such as: “OK. FOR FLYING AT SHORT NOTICE”, “Cheap, Quick and Reliable!”, “so cheap”. The not so good reviews include the following comments: “STRAIGHTJACKET SEATING”, “NON-EXISTENT CUSTOMER SUPPORT – TOUGH LUCK IF YOU HAVE *ANY* PROBLEMS AT ALL and “hidden costs and odd dates“

If you really, really want to, you can read Ryanair’s in-flight magazine on-line. For the fascinating and scintillating read, go to:

Bike Kenya 2004 by Bill Polley

Bill wrote in to tell us about his sponsored bike ride in aid of the Douglas Bader Foundation late January, early February this year.

How did it start? It began with a mad idea to cycle somewhere warm in the middle of our cold winter, experience two summers in one year and lose some weight. At first I was interested in Guide Dogs for the Blind’s ride in New Zealand. I started training in August 2003, but when I applied officially, I discovered that with a low demand the ride had been scrapped. I then looked around to see where else would provide the winter warmth and came across Vietnam, Cuba and Kenya. Mainly because my father had an amputation and I had seen the struggles which all the folk had in the recovery ward at Musgrave Park Hospital, Belfast, I chose the Douglas Bader Foundation cycle ride in Kenya.

What about training? Classic tours, which run many of these Bike Rides, provide good guidance as to how you build up the miles (and more importantly for this ride, the hills.) I had sputtered at training since May but never really got into a three day a week rhythm until the middle of August, when I was doing about fifty miles a week. My daughter Sarah’s wedding in early September set the training back a bit, but by the end of October I had managed Lisburn and back twice and a run up the coast road to nearly Glenariff. God was good with regards to the weather. In a ‘normal winter’ (if there is such a thing in this country) rain, wind and snow would have interrupted training. Most weeks I was able to get out three and sometimes four days a week which proved to be crucial when it came to tackling the big hills in Kenya. Motivation after Christmas in the colder January days was a real problem, when it was so much easier to sit in the warm than face four hours in the cold cycling round Islandmagee!

Fund-raising? Folk have been very generous. After an accident I had, I had decided to use some of my retirement funds as a Thank you to God to fully meet all costs, so that all sponsor money given would go to the charity concerned. What with support from relatives, church folk, Carrick Grammar School Charity Fund and staff, I hoped to raise over £2,000 for the Douglas Bader Foundation. With the other nine riders we should have raised over £12,000.

What was it like? Kenya is a really beautiful country with a huge range of bird and wildlife. Much of what we cycled through was cultivated and quite densely settled but there were still remote quiet places where fewer people were found. The support team were excellent, providing quick help for bikes and people with three course tasty cooked lunches provided at the roadside!!

Here are my diary extracts:

Sat 31st Jan 2004 – Heathrow terminal 4, 5.37p.m. Tired already – I’ve been on the go since 9.15am and I still have not left London. I hate this Belfast to London slog. I’ve done it three times in three years to meet other flights and still it never gets better. Transit lounges surrounded by 1,000 strangers and eight million locals, yet still quite alone. It is never daylight here. I read the Bible and prayed and just felt the Lord with me and I wasn’t alone any more. Perhaps a short tea and then meet the others at 7p.m. They seem like a good crowd and are very friendly. It’s difficult to make friends immediately, but we gel surprisingly well, for people who have never met but who have a common purpose. I am stunned to see Mike, a double amputee (below both knees) who is going to cycle most of the 400Km. Later in the week, when I see him strapping on his artificial limbs and dealing with the abscesses on his stumps, it is so humbling to see the huge efforts that he makes and it puts any difficulties that I had in training into a true perspective.

Wed 4th Feb. The Big Hill day. I can’t believe that we freewheeled for half an hour going down the twisty hairpin bends into the Kerio valley from the overnight stop at Kabernet in Northern central Kenya. We descend from 2065m to 1200m on the valley floor. Great fun to see the kids’ faces at Chermurgui Primary School, when Mike takes off his artificial leg. We stopped here to hand over the pens, pencils and drawing materials (plus a UTV Frisbee that I won in a quiz !!) to the headmaster of the school. We were all asked to bring some resources which would be better than giving out sweets. Carrickfergus Grammar School had provided boxes of pens and pencils, which went down really well.

Then it was off up the Elgeyo escarpment. In Classic tourspeak it was “a very serious climb” – to you and me it meant if you hadn’t done enough hills in your training ‘get off and walk’. I don’t think I have ever faced a stiffer challenge – a fifteen mile hill that went from 1200m to 1925m. Lunch at two o’clock had never tasted quite as good. The views on the way up were stunning in the early morning but by lunchtime it was too hazy to really appreciate the whole landscape.

Thursday 5th Feb. Another 60 mile day phew!! This time less long steep hills and more undulations (shorter and steeper) Through the Kakamega rain forest with views of Vervet and Colobus monkeys. The first few days were cloudy and it even rained on Monday (warm rain, of course, unlike Carrick). Now it was blue skies and 35 to 37 C with little shade even through the forest. A litre of bottled water has never tasted so good. I needed the Factor 50 sunscreen that I had brought with me as I burn so easily. The rain on the first day had washed the sunscreen off my right calf and the sun had burned it even through the cloud!

Fri 6th Feb. The final run into Kisumu – only 35 miles!!! All those days of encouraging one another were over. The distracting ploys like: “look at those lovely wee wild flowers beside the road” – but don’t look at the huge hill that is emerging in front of us as we round this bend or “Let’s stop and look at the view’” which means: I’m punctured and need a breather. Another one was: “I must take a picture of this for the folk at home” read as : I need a good drink of water, and finally “Look, I think that might be a bee-eater / shrike / black kite” which translates as: I’ll be able to get my heart and lungs back to a semblance of normality while I try to focus on this pesky bird.

Outcome: a huge rewarding effort and a great sense of achievement while seeing a really different part of God’s beautiful creation. New friendships made and many folk helped through the generosity of our sponsors. Oh and over a stone lost in weight, since starting training in August.

Birdwatching in the Philippines by Christina

On how my first birdwatching trip to Candaba, Pampanga Province, Philippines made my enthusiasm for conservation take flight.

Trudging stealthily on a marshland trail, struggling to keep alert despite it being 5:30 in the morning. With binoculars slung over my neck and a species list on hand, I tried to make as little noise as possible. Is this an episode from National Geographic or a feature on the Discovery Channel? No, but that’s what I felt like on my first bird-watching trip.

It was a cold day in November when I was surprisingly able to coerce two of my friends to pry ourselves out of bed at 3 in the morning to drive down to the Haribon Foundation center. All we knew to prepare for the trip was to wear dark clothing, bring a hat, some food and pay the joining fee. There I met some 20 or so individuals, scientists, bird-watching enthusiasts from here and abroad, and regular clueless folks like me. our brief encounter with an injured bird We got to our destination the Candaba Marsh at dawn, and even before getting off our van, they told us to spot Egrets flying over and into the distance. How majestic they looked! Enormous wing span and quite easy to spot due to their size and number. It was right about there when I was handed a checklist of the different species of birds we could spot in this particular location. My eyes widened as I counted 92 listed there! And I was only expecting maybe 2 or 3 species! I couldn’t believe that we had so many different kinds of birds here in the country! It was also of major interest to me that as one scientist noted, the Philippines has 80 or so endemic species whereas countries like the UK had none. All the more curious, I was to find out how many I’d be able to spot at the end of the day.

My excitement mounted as our scientists Blas Tabaranza and Tim Fisher pointed out to us the lone Purple Heron sitting high atop a sparsely leafed tree, the many Black Winged Stilts, easily identified by their long bright red spindly legs and the daintily colored Blue-Tailed Bee-eater. I was pleasantly educated that even the Chestnut Munia or “Maya”. the local name for the common sparrow, was not the Maya I thought to be. Its head was black and body brown. All in all I was able to jot down 19 kinds of birds that day. I’m quite sure that wasn’t all there were that day since the I wasn’t able to quickly spot everything pointed out to us.

Whereas before I saluted Haribon’s conservation efforts only in theory, to be alongside them was a concrete expression, one that further strengthened my resolve to support the projects and one that I hope would be followed up with many more wonderfully mind-broadening adventures!

Christina Alejandro is a product designer for a chain of gift shops and also a member of the WWF and Haribon Foundation, both environment oriented organizations. She loves travelling and has visited the US, Europe, Australia and some Asian countries. Christina’s website is:

Meeting News

Meeting news from our branches around the world.


Sicily: Palermo, Part 1 by David Cross

All long-distance buses seem to have termini fairly near the Central Station [trains]. Outside this there is a massive square where most local buses start and from the other side there are roads into the centre, of which the Via Roma is the widest. The place where I stayed is just to the left of the Via Roma [third turn] and is visible from it. This is the Rosalia Conco d’Oro, completely unprepossessing from outside but snug, clean, comfortable and friendly inside and with a lift to the third floor reception and rooms. Toilets and showers are shared but I never had to wait.

However short your time here, there is one thing which is simply NOT TO BE MISSED, the Duomo at Monreale. This means one of the buses which does not start from the station and it is necessary to get first to the Piazza del’Indepenza to catch it. [Bus #309 from the station.] Words fail me at describing the appeal of this cathedral and I am happy to quote from the Rough Guide ‘the most extraordinary and extensive area of Christian medieval mosaicwork in the world, the apex of Sicilian-Norman art.’ I certainly cannot envisage anything better. To me this is one of the sights of Europe. Although totally different in style, I should place it in the same quality box as the Alhambra.

The Cathedral Cloisters at MonrealeThis Duomo must have been quite remarkable in the twelfth century for the dazzling speed of its construction. It is believed that it was done and dusted within twelve years. The reason for this would appear to have been political rivalry between the king and an archbishop but it does leave us now with a whole building of a single style. I regarded this visit as being of great historical interest as I had seen nothing of this type of Greek and Byzantine workmanship, but I did not expect it to appeal to me artistically. Talk about being bowled over; the impact of the view of the interior on entry was like a physical blow. Although I have seen nothing of its type to equal it, it has left me ready to appreciate a much wider artistic range of church interiors.

I suppose the crowning glory in terms of art must be the mighty mosaic of Christ – ‘mighty’ not used lightly here as the head and shoulders are a good sixty feet high! I think, however that the ones that moved me once were those of most of the best known Old Testament accounts which go all around just below the high windows of the nave. Some real humour is very visible in the sections on the Creation and Noah’s Ark. Lastly, on the subject of this cathedral, do not on any account miss seeing the cloisters. I forget whether the entrance is on the same wall as that to the cathedral or the wall to the right hand side as you face it, but it is worth finding.

The Orpheus MosaicThere are some wonderful mosaics elsewhere in Palermo as well. The church of La Martorana near the centre has some of these and is probably one of the first things to see in Palermo. However do not miss seeing the church next to it as well, the little twelfth century chapel of San Cataldo. This is innocent of mosaics, very plain in fact, but its very simplicity gives it a considerable appeal. Strange to English eyes but rather appealing too, are the bright red domes of the roof. I have more difficulty in writing about the Palazzo dei Normanni, now the seat of Sicily’s autonomous government. Only a limited amount can be visited here but this includes the Capella Palatina. Here there are mosaics which should logically have something of the same effect as those at Monreale. However for me, although I could appreciate the skill and artistry well enough, they had no such impact. It was not anti-climax because I saw these before going out to Monreale. In the Capella I was more fascinated by the lovely Arabic ceiling. Whilst on the subject of churches I shall mention one that is no longer consecrated but is a striking building. This is San Giovanni degli Eremiti, not far from the Piazza del’ Independenza and the Norman palace. The twelfth century church was built on the remains of an earlier mosque and it is very much an Arabic type of building, well worth a visit, although its Christian style cloisters also call. The fact that the garden is now quite wild seems to enhance rather than detract from the beauty of the building.

David was a keen walker, particularly on mountains before he developed serious heart problems in 1995. He has now adapted his holidays to what he is able to do and we are presenting his account of 12 days in Sicily over this and the coming months. Next two episodes: Palermo.

Next episode – Palermo Part 2

Meeting News from London

Meeting News from London

Liam D’Arcy Brown talked about his 11,000 mile journey literally the far corners of China North, South, East & West, and his talk was a riveting account of how he got there and the people he met on the way.

From the Southern most tip of Hainan Island, to the island of Zhoushan, Liam traveled on buses, trains and motorbikes wherever he went. Mixing with the locals, for better and for worse. Generally looked after by the locals, he was however robbed and spent few soul-searching days in his hotel feeling sorry for himself after being drugged on a train. Beware locals bearing free booze!

Liams book “Green Dragon, Sombre Warrior” has been described as the best autobiographical China travel book so far this year.

After the break, John Malathronas gave a digital slide show and talk about Brazil based on his book “Brazil, Life, Blood and Soul”.

John’s odyssey took us through the adrenaline-fuelled, chaotic city bars, the extravagant carnival, the lush rainforest and the destitute shanty towns of Brazil revealing the throbbing heartbeat of the country. John’s book “Brazil: Life, Blood and Soul” is published by Summersdale.

Next month, on Saturday 3rd July is open house, an opportunity for UK Globetrotters and visitors to show their own slides (traditional or digital images form scanned prints or digital pictures) and each make a short ten minute presentation. Contact london@globetrotters.co.uk if you are interested in making a presentation.

London meetings are held at The Church of Scotland, Crown Court, behind the Fortune Theatre in Covent Garden at 2.30pm the first Saturday of each month. There is no London meeting in August, but we will be back in September. For more information, you can contact the Globetrotters Info line on +44 (0) 20 8674 6229, or visit the website: https://globetrotters.co.uk/local-meetings/london-meetings.html Admission: Members £2.00 Non-members £4.00

Harry Potter Movie Locations in the UK

The success of the Harry Potter films has resulted in a spate of tour operators organising tours of Harry Potter film locations – and don’t forget there’s a third Harry Potter film coming out in June 2004. There’s no reason why you cannot see some of these locations yourself without joining a tour. Here is where some of Harry Potter’s movie locations can be found:

Hogwarts school was shot in and around Lacock Abbey with some additional computer graphics to add to the mystery. Some of the scenes in Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban, the third soon to be released movie were shot around the narrow streets and stalls of south London’s Borough Market – a favourite movie set where much of Bridgit Jones was filmed.

Platform 9-¾ was filmed at London’s main line station, King’s Cross between platforms 4 and 5. This is where Hogwarts students catch the train to Hogwarts boarding school. These days you will see, as the Beetle did the other day, a simple Platform 9-¾ sign hanging on a brick wall in a corner of the station. The adjoining railway station, the Gothic-style St. Pancras, was used for exterior shots. Australia House in central London provides the façade for Gringott’s Bank.

Various sites around Oxford were used in the first two films. Christchurch College was a model for the Hogwarts dining hall. Parts of the Bodleian Library were used for Hogwarts school scenes (the Divinity School as the Hogwarts hospital wing; Duke Humfrey’s Library as the Hogwarts library. The cloister and other parts of 900 year old Gloucester Cathedral were used in Hogwarts scenes. Up in the north east of England, the exterior of Alnwick Castle was used for Hogwarts’ Quidditch games and flying classes.

  • The British tourist office can provide information, including a map of some Harry Potter film locations (0800-462-2748) or go to www.travelbritain.org/moviemap).
  • Warner Brothers’ official Harry Potter movie site has previews and more: www.harrypotter.com.
  • The BBC has Web pages with useful information and photos on Harry Potter sets, including Lacock, Oxford and Gloucester. See: www.bbc.co.uk/oxford/harry_potter/index.shtml

St Moritz and Lucerne by Iona Hill

I went to St Moritz for a week in February – on a course in a place called Randolins in Survetta, a little way outside the town – not skiing.  Randolins is a not for profit organisation that caters mainly for groups, such as children on ski camps or adult learning.  It's a very nice place, simple, but comfortable – definitely not your 5 star kind of place.  It has shared rooms and you have to take part in the chores, so things like going and getting the food for each meal and wheeling it down to your building on a trolley, washing up, laying tables etc.  If you are looking for a group venue, it's not a bad place.

St Moritz is in the Upper Engadine.  Can't comment on skiing, but can say a few things about the town.  It's quite small, easily walkable, very posh with a very high fur coat count and is pretty expensive!  There are two parts to St Moritz: there's the dorf which means village and this is above the lake.  This is where the posh hotels, restaurants, shops etc are.  St Moritz-Bad is about 2km away southwest down on the lakeshore and is not such a pretty place, lots of concrete flats and other buildings.

Sculpture in LucerneThe name of St Moritz has an interesting story attached to it: the story told to me was that Maurice (later turned into Moritz) was a Christian and came from Egypt.  He served in the Roman army under Julius Caesar and led a Theban legion for the Roman empire and fought in the Alps.  He refused to obey the order of the Emperor Maximian and sacrifice some Christians to the Roman gods because he was himself a Christian.  On hearing this, Maximian ordered Maurice's regiment to be decimated – i.e. every tenth person killed, and this went on until no-one was left.  And so commanding officer Maurice became a saint.  Legend has it that the rock used by Maurice to lay his head on so that he could be beheaded is at St Moritz.   Like England's St George, St. Maurice is a patron of knights and soldiers.  From the 12th century, due the similarity between his name and Maurus, he was depicted as a Moor, so he became the black saint.  

Even after Roman times, St. Moritz was known during the Middle Ages for its mineral springs and healthy climate and it became the first alpine winter sports and tourism centre in Switzerland.  It also hosted two Olympic Winter Games (1928 and 1948.) It became the famous ski and alpine sports centre that it is mainly due to the British, who went over in the 1860s and liked it so much they went back and stayed an entire season, and the word was spread.

To get to St Moritz is very easy, you can take a train from Zurich.  I flew from London to Zurich on Easyjet (AKA Sleazyjet) and that was a good price at around £75 including taxes.  Swiss Air and BA all fly there too from the UK but are more expensive.  There is a train station underneath the airport at Zurich and you can take a train from here to the main train station in the centre and go to Chor, change there for St Moritz.  The whole train journey from Zurich took about 3 1/2 hours. 

There are plenty of taxis outside St Moritz train station and the drivers seem to speak every language in the world between them.  Swiss Italian and Swiss German seem to be the predominant languages – and be warned, whilst many Swiss people are amazing linguists and speak good English throughout, if you were thinking (like me) to practice your German, think again, Swiss German is quite different.

Swiss trains are a delight – always on time, clean, and I especially like the double decker trains.  Whilst the airport is non smoking throughout – a fairly recent change, I think, the Swiss do allow smoking on trains, so be careful about which compartment you get into, if you are a non smoker.  I got on an intercity from Lucerne to Zurich and inadvertently sat in a smoking section, which by the time I realised, was too late to move as it was packed full.

Buying a Swiss rail pass makes a lot of sense.  I paid £105 for a pass that allowed me free travel on three specified days.  The days do not have to be consecutive.  The pass also allows you to receive substantial discounts on other trips.  You can buy rail passes for different lengths of trip.

I also went to Lucerne or Luzern.  Beautiful!  It's about 4 hours from St Moritz by train – and only an hour or so by the fast intercity train from Zurich, which also goes direct to the airport as well, which is pretty handy.  It is situated on a lake and has lots of history.  The river Reuss separates the old town from the newer, although that seemed pretty old to me too!  Then it flows into the lake.  The town is also very easy to walk around and was my highlight on this trip to Switzerland.  The train station is very close to the edge of the lake and close to the Art Museum and within easy reach of the hotels by foot.

I stayed in the Hotel Krone which is a Best Western and is in the Old Town, it was very nice and has free internet and the people there were very nice.

bridge across river lucernThere are lots of bridges across the River Reuss, it reminded me a little of Ljubljana, especially with some of the dragon symbols, some of my friends said Stockholm.  One of the most famous is the Chapel bridge built in the 14th century as a part of the city's fortifications and named after St. Peter's Chapel, which is located nearby. It has paintings on it including some info on the city's patron saints, St. Leodegar and our friend St. Maurice.  There's also a very splendid 17th century baroque Jesuit church.  I really liked the water spikes that act like a lock  to regulate water levels like in a canal. and you can see the remains of water mills.

There are lots of old squares and beautiful buildings with pictures on the walls, red spires and steeples.  The Weinmarkt is one of these old squares, and is by the Hotel Krone – very pretty. There's also a great restaurant, and not too expensive (for Switzerland!) in the cellar of the town hall, or Rat Haus that has its own micro brewery inside – great beer, and good food, especially the Braui special which has lots of different types of pork and sauerkraut.  It is also a good place to go and talk to local people, as everyone seemed really friendly.

View from Rigi KulmOn my final day in Lucerne, I went to the tourist information centre at the train station and asked where I could go in the mountains.  They suggested a trip to Rigi Kulm, so, using my rail pass, instead of paying 79 Swiss Francs, it cost me 29 Swiss Francs.  It was a great adventure!  I took a boat across Lake Lucerne, and then a funicular or cog wheel train up the mountain to the top of Rigi Kulm, about 1,800m, so not too high, and then the cog wheel train to the half way point and a cable car down to Weggis back down by the lake, and the boat again back to Lucerne.  It was a wonderful half day trip, where we could see above the clouds, the mountain tops poking through, then there was the lake and the green of the alpine pastures leading up to the mountains.  There are a couple of other mountain type trips you can do like this whilst based in Lucerne.

Then  I took the train from Lucerne back to Zurich airport, the direct trains run at 10 minutes past the hour and it took about 1 hour.

I’d definitely recommend Lucerne as a base for 2/3 days to explore.

Meeting News from Texas

On Saturday May 9th Wayne Stevenson Thomas from the International Cooperative Exchange Network, SERVAS gave a talk at the Texas branch of the Globetrotters Club.  SERVAS was established in 1948 and is an international network of hosts and travellers building peace by providing opportunities for personal contact between people of diverse cultures and backgrounds. Through mutually arranged individual visits, hosts and travellers share their lives, interests and concerns about social issues. These encounters help form the building blocks of peace in the spirit of mutual service and respect.

See their website:http://www.usservas.org/

Dates of future meetings:

  • June 12th
  • July 10th
  • Mark your calendars now

For more information about the Texas Branch: please contact texas@globetrotters.co.uk or register for email updates at our website (click here) or call Christina at 830-620-5482

If anybody would like to enquire about meetings or help Christina, please contact her on: texas@globetrotters.co.uk

Spotlight on St Helena

Where? 

St Helena is situated in the South Atlantic Ocean, 5° 43' west and 15° 56' south, 1,200 miles from the south-west coast of Africa, and 1,800 miles from the coast of South America.  The nearest land is Ascension Island, which lies 703 miles (1,125km) to the north-west.  Cape Town lies some 1700 miles to the south east.  In other words, it’s pretty remote!

St Helena Island land is only some 47 square miles or 122 square km, ten and a half miles or 17km long and six and a half miles or 10km wide.  St Helena Island has two other British Overseas Territories: Ascension Island which lies 703 miles to the north west and Tristan da Cunha, which lies 1500 miles to the south west.  

It was uninhabited when it was first discovered by the Portuguese explorer, Juan Da Nova on 21 May 1502. The name St Helena is derived from the fact that the day Juan Da Niva discovered St Helena, it was a festival day, of St Helena, mother of Emperor Constantine the Great, so he named the island in her honour. The Portuguese kept quiet about St Helena’s existence and used it as a convenient stop off place for ships returning home from the east to stock up on fresh water and fruit. For a little over 80 years only the Portuguese visited St Helena until in 1588 Captain Thomas Cavendish, captain of the H.M.S. Desire, called at the island on his voyage round the world and stayed 12 days there. After this time, English and Dutch merchant ships began to stop off for provisions and repairs.

As might be expected from this period in history, disputes soon arose between the Dutch and the English over sovereignty of St Helena.  In 1659 the British East India Company placed a garrison on the island and started the first permanent settlement. In retaliation, the Dutch invaded in 1673 forcing the English out.  The island was recaptured by the English and held by the British East India Company until 1834 until it was brought under the direct government of the British Crown.

In the Eighteenth century over a thousand ships called annually.  Following the opening of the Suez Canal and the advent of steam the island slipped into oblivion and remained as sort of time warp with its elegance period buildings , relaxed atmosphere and virtually crime free community.

Perhaps many people recognise the name St Helena in connection with Napoleon.  Napoleon was confined to St Helena in 18l5 after his defeat at Waterloo.  Residents of St Helena call themselves “Saints.” Things to do on St Helena include visiting the Plantation House, the residence of the Governor where one can photograph the giant tortoise reputed to be more than 150 years old, Longwood House where Napoleon was kept until his death in 1821 and is maintained by France as a museum.

Ascension Island has a military airstrip that can be used by civilians, but there is currently no civilian airport, so the only way to get there is by boat.  The UK Royal Mail Ship, the RMS St Helena, built in Glasgow, Scotland in 1990  provides cargo and passenger services.  It has a passenger capacity of 128 people.

The British Royal Mail ship sets off from Cardiff in the UK, calling at Tenerife and Ascension Island, and Cape Town. There are usually 4 voyages from the UK, 15 voyages from Ascension and 10 from Cape Town each year. Once a year the RMS calls at Tristan da Cunha – a Dependency of St Helena.  Most people travel via Ascension Island or Cape Town. The travel time for the RMS St Helena is 2 days from Ascension, 5 days from Cape Town and 14 days if travel is direct from Cardiff, UK.  If you are interested in taking the boat, take a look at: www.aws.co.uk or e-mail reservations@aws.co.uk or  enquiries@solomons.co.sh

According to Mac, who has looked into freighters, most freighters won’t take passengers over 75 years of age, as they have no doctors aboard, and he a little over this. He has culled some information from reading an account of freighter travel to St Helena.

Write for the Globetrotters monthly e-newsletter

If you enjoy writing, enjoy travelling, why not write for the free monthly Globetrotters e-newsletter! The Beetle would love to hear from you: your travel stories, anecdotes, jokes, questions, hints and tips, or your hometown or somewhere of special interest to you. Over 8,000 people currently subscribe to the Globetrotter e-news.

To see your story in cyber print, e-mail the Beetle with your travel experiences, hints and tips or questions up to 750 words, together with a couple of sentences about yourself and a contact e-mail address to Beetle@globetrotters.co.uk

Internet Café Travellers Tips by International Travel News Spotted by Mac:

One reader suggested going to a university and sign up to use the net, then try the local library, and then a net cafe.  Try visiting internet cafes in the morning and early afternoon (not quite so busy).  You could also ask at your hotel if they have free internet access. In one of the most isolated place on earth Easter Island a reader asked about using internet and they pointed to a corner of the office where there was a machine they could use free (as I think deluxe Hotels sometimes charge heavy prices perhaps you might get free access to internet in lower price places)

Another person said that in Hungary the easiest and least expensive place to access and send e-mails was Burger King. 

In Spanish speaking countries, to get the @ symbol you hold down the “alt” key then press 6 and then 4 on the number keyboard (there is something about the @ key has a couple of other symbols on same key or something and when pressed nothing happens.

Visit our website www.intltravelnews.com

An Insider's Guide to Thailand by Randy Gaudet

I have been living in Thailand since 1989.  I have travelled extensively throughout the Kingdom and wanted to share my wonderful experiences of Thailand with others.  I talked with many travellers here in Thailand and saw a need to take visitors away from the normal tourist areas filled with large tour buses and groups. The biggest complaint I heard from visitors is “there is no real Thai culture… it’s staged for the tourists”.  This is because they keep following each other around using their guidebooks and never see the real Thailand.

In the course of setting up a travel agency here in Thailand, it took about 2 years of research to find the areas that were safe and could handle visitors.  I spoke with village headmen, temple Monks, Hill Tribe villagers, National Park officials and local bird experts.  I then had to train staff that would take care of our clients with excellent service and provide correct information about Thai and hill tribe culture, Thai food, Buddhism, birds of Thailand, etc.

I lived in a remote area of north Thailand at Wat Thaton temple in the town of Thaton on the Burmese border for more than 3 years.  I taught English to Monks, novices, high school students, the Thai Army, local and tourist police.  I also did hill tribe programs by taking a small number of tourists to hill tribe villages to spend the evening.  All the money for the trek went to the villagers.  I bought clothes for the children, medicines and blankets for the families.  I paid the villagers to build a bamboo schoolhouse and paid a teacher to teach Thai at the school who could speak their language.  I taught them how to dispose of waste properly, keep the children and village clean and to use spoons instead of their fingers when eating which was a big source of their health problems.  I provided vegetable seeds and logan and lychee fruit trees for planting.

This was fine until I left the temple then the school stopped and the health problems returned.  I talked with the Abbot of the temple and he now has a school for the children at the temple.  He has a nurse looking after the children and takes those to the clinics that have problems.

While I was there I help start a guest home where travellers could stay in a Lisu hill tribe village and go trekking in the jungle and visit primitive hill tribe villages in the area.  This was not easy, as the villages we visited didn't want visitors as they wanted to maintain their lifestyle and culture.  They have seen other villages that accepted tourists turned into a village without harmony and their culture was gone forever. These villagers were farmers and didn't want to look at tourism as a source of income.

I understood the problem as I have seen what a tour operator can do to a village. To most tour operators in Thailand money is first and they don't care about the hill tribe people or their way of life.

I stayed in these villages and met with the village headmen many times. I learned about their culture, way of life, religion, and do's and don'ts. We then came up with a plan that worked out well for the villagers and our clients.

For the Jungle portion of the trek I had to teach the guides to use different trails so it could grow back.  They make a hut out of bamboo and banana leaves for sleeping and I taught them not to clear-cut and not to return to an area for at least two months.  No more hunting of birds or wild animals.

Without the local culture we would not be able to give our clients the experience they are looking for. We also encourage our clients in helping the local people we visit.

Next month, Randy talks about the difference between tourism and eco-tourism, and provides us with some guidelines about the kind of questions we should be asking ourselves when visiting Thailand or going on any kind of eco-trip.

Randy who was born in Cleveland, Ohio in 1948 has lived in Texas for more than 20 years and in Thailand since 1989 can be contacted by e-mail on: allthai@all-thailand-exp.com.  For more information on trips to Thailand, see: http://www.all-thailand-exp.com  

Letter from Cascais, Portugal by Sally

In this, Sally talks about her return to the UK for Christmas 2003 after having started a new life in Portugal. 

It was very strange to be back in the UK.  I flew on 19 December.  At check-in at Lisbon airport, I was furious to be charged excess baggage by BA especially when the flight was half full.  Interestingly enough, the return flight with self same baggage incurred no excess baggage charge on another half full flight.  Other friends, who flew the following day to London to connect with a flight to Canada, were also hammered for ski kit.  An outraged missive to BA on why Lisbon charged when Heathrow doesn’t, resulted in no apology.  I have always preferred to travel with TAP who surprisingly did not charge any excess baggage to anyone over Christmas!  Warn friends over the double standards of BA!

When I arrived at Heathrow, having left Lisbon in deep mist (they like to call it fog), I had forgotten how grey the winter skies are – quite a shock.  I did find the UK incredibly expensive.  I know it was only 18 months or so since I had left, but I certainly thought things had increased in price.  Also you notice the commercialism much more with all the adverts on TV, radio and hoardings.  You also realise what a wide difference between earning levels there are between the UK and Europe. As an example, I was in Carphone Warehouse picking up a new chip for my phone when I ear wigged a conversation at the side of me.  A young lad was with his parents and enquiring about the latest state-of-the-art mobile.  The cost of this phone was approximately £350!  When you convert that over to euros, it is roughly the monthly salary of a policeman here – fireman earn slightly less.  I took the bus from Bath to Bradford-on-Avon and nearly fainted at the single fare – £2.40!  The journey is about 20 minutes.  For that fare you can travel twice (return) from Cascais to Lisbon on the railway (a forty minute journey)!

The biggest shock to the system was the price of coffee!  Definitely spoilt over here.  A small black coffee is about 50 cents out of the city and in small coffee bars; the highest price would be about 90 cents in a posh area of Lisbon (70 UK pence is roughly equal to 1 euro).

Strangely enough I actually found just before I left the UK that I was feeling homesick for Portugal – I wonder what that means!  Driving a car was great fun but again I found I had to work really hard at remembering which side of the road to drive on, and I admit to going the wrong way round a junction – luckily nothing was coming!  I also had to concentrate and remember that sunshine and frost sometimes mean ice!  Funny how fast you forget these things.

Flew home to Portugal on 3 January and left grey skies for stunning blue skies and burning hot sun!  Coming back along the motorway was quite surreal, as so many flowers had bloomed over the Christmas period.

Pompey (the kitten) was so thrilled I was home that he slept with his head on my face and his body curled between my head and shoulder for a whole week!

Although it is winter here in Portugal, it is quite different to the UK because there is so much in flower.  Because of the rain we have lots of different shades of green, Madonna lilies are all out, the cherry blossom is just starting, magnolias are in full bloom along with camellias.  Mimosa is also out.  It does make a difference.  The weather has been far better than last winter.  We have had some days where we have had torrential rain but then it stops and you get a bit of blue sky and sometimes, magnificent rainbows.  Some days have been quite warm but again, it can get quite cold at night and I have had my gas log fire (salamandra) on a few times which is rather nice as you have this glow in the corner. 

I have now received my official Numero do Contribuinte – my tax card which means that I now have to sort out all my receipts to hand in by the end of this month.  I can claim medical, dental, any purchases to do with work, petrol and restaurant bills (this I was told was to help the tax authorities make sure the restaurants in question actually declare revenue!)  For those of you who know my hatred and frustrations with sums – keep your fingers crossed.  I have no doubt that things will be thrown and tears shed when I do this later this week.

GPS and Geocaching by Padmassana

Many globetrotting travellers now regularly carry a GPS (Global Positioning System) with them when they travel. These superb little handheld devices can be bought for as little as £100, though prices do go up to several hundred pounds for the most sophisticated machines. They show your position on earth in latitude, longitude and altitude, via triangulation from satellites orbiting the earth.

To those of us not blessed with a great sense of direction, especially when exploring a new city, these devices are a godsend. Just “Mark” the co-ordinate of your hotel for example, wander all day and then your little machine will guide you back home in the evening. If you know the GPS co-ordinate of the sight you want to visit, these little boxes can save you time by taking your straight there, as depending on conditions they can be as accurate as 10ft.

Though GPS's are a great piece of kit to have with you they are used in more serious applications. For example Padmassana recently went to a lecture on volcanoes and the lecturer described how GPS's are being used to monitor the height of the land in volcanic areas. The land rising if only by centimetres over a period can signify that magma is building up underneath and indicate that an eruption is more likely and hopefully give the authorities an opportunity to evacuate the area.

To those who already have a GPS, most will know about Geocaching. A global game of hide and seek using a GPS. Globie Tracey introduced Padmassana to this “sport” on a Globetrotters weekend away. On the website www.geocaching.com you type in your postal code (in countries that have this system) and you will be taken to a page showing “Caches” within a 10-mile radius. The Cache is normally hidden and usually has the form of a plastic box with some trinkets in. Most Geocachers leave something and take something. There is always a book to record your visit and sometimes a throwaway camera for you to take a picture. Once back home you can go online and record your visit, this allows the person who planted the cache to know how often it is being found or not as the case may be. Some caches are just one location, but many are a series of clues leading to a final cache. For example you may be given the co-ordinates of a church, where you have to look for a particular grave, then transpose a date of birth into another set of co-ordinates, which take you to another clue and so on.

In some cache’s you may be lucky and come across a “Travel bug”, these are small metal dog tag beetles with a number on. If you decide to remove this from the cache you must put it in the book. Once you get home look up the Travel bug online and see what its mission is, some want to reach a particular destination, others just want to visit as many places as possible. Your mission once you have discovered what the bug wants to do is to help it on its way by planting it in another cache, which hopefully helps it get nearer to its goal.

Since the first cache was “planted” near Portland Oregon in May 2000, the worldwide number of caches has increased to over 90,000 and are hidden in 199 countries. In the UK alone there are around 3000 hidden caches. In just one 7-day period in March 2004, over 64,000 caches were logged as “Found”, which goes to show what a popular pastime this has become. (Figures courtesy of www.fingertech.co.uk)

Now this is where we want all you Globetrotters out there to do your part. I am trying to put together a database of co-ordinates of famous sights and monuments, for example: Buckingham Palace in London is located at N51 30.101 W000  08.487

We are inviting you to take part in geocaching in your area – please take two or three readings to make sure they are as accurate as possible, then e-mail the following information 1) The site 2) The address 3) Its co-ordinates 4) Your name to gps@globetrotters.co.uk  Once we have begun to build a database it will be made available to all Globetrotters to enjoy.

By the way, Padmassana released a travel bug on Monday, April 05, 2004 in the UK.   The mission of the travel bug is as follows: to travel far and wide, but my dream is to visit Iran.  I would like to visit caches in England, France, Italy, Greece, Turkey and finally Iran.

Funny Signs by Mac

Mac is not responsible for finding these signs, he saw them on the internet and thought they may be amusing for readers of the Globetrotters e-newsletter.  Please, no complaints about being patronising, this is just for fun. 

Spotted in a toilet of a London office: TOILET OUT OF ORDER. PLEASE USE FLOOR BELOW

In a Laundromat: AUTOMATIC WASHING MACHINES: PLEASE REMOVE ALL YOUR CLOTHES WHEN THE LIGHT GOES OUT

In a London department store: BARGAIN BASEMENT UPSTAIRS

In an office: WOULD THE PERSON WHO TOOK THE STEP LADDER YESTERDAY, PLEASE BRING IT BACK OR FURTHER STEPS WILL BE TAKEN

In an office: AFTER TEA BREAK STAFF SHOULD EMPTY THE TEAPOT AND STAND UPSIDE DOWN ON THE DRAINING BOARD

Outside a second hand shop: WE EXCHANGE ANYTHING – BICYCLES, WASHING MACHINES, ETC. WHY NOT BRING YOUR WIFE ALONG AND GET A WONDERFUL BARGAIN?

… and the best one…Notice in health food shop window: CLOSED DUE TO ILLNESS

Spotted in a safari park: ELEPHANTS PLEASE STAY IN YOUR CAR

Seen during a conference: FOR ANYONE WHO HAS CHILDREN AND DOESN'T KNOW IT, THERE IS A DAY CARE ON THE 1ST FLOOR

Notice in a field: THE FARMER ALLOWS WALKERS TO CROSS THE FIELD FOR FREE, BUT THE BULL CHARGES

Message on a leaflet: IF YOU CANNOT READ, THIS LEAFLET WILL TELL YOU HOW TO GET LESSONS

 … and finally…

On a repair shop door: WE CAN REPAIR ANYTHING. (PLEASE KNOCK HARD ON THE DOOR – THE BELL DOESN'T WORK)

Conde Nast Traveller's Next Seven Wonders of the World

According to Conde Nast Traveller’s, the “Next Seven Wonders” of the world feature two concert halls, a museum, two stores, a church and a hotel.  They are:

  • Tenerife Auditorium, a curving, soaring concert hall on Santa Cruz de Tenerife in the Canary Islands.
  • The Kunsthaus contemporary art museum in Graz, Austria, a blue, other-worldly building with light flowing in from 16 nozzles, dubbed the “Friendly Alien” by locals.
  • The six-storey Prada tower in Tokyo with a facade made from diamond-shaped grids of glass, some concave, others convex, illuminated from within at night.
  • The Jubilee Church in Rome, comprising three concrete shells, soaring skylights and glass exterior walls that fill the church with light.
  • The Selfridges store in Birmingham, England, a futuristic pod of a building with 15,000 glittering aluminium disks covering its wavy walls.
  • Hotel Unique in Sao Paulo, a boat-shaped semicircle, complete with round nautical-style windows.
  • Frank Gehry's Walt Disney Concert Hall in Los Angeles, known for its acoustics and reflective stainless steel panels.

Is there anywhere you’d like to nominate as the next wonder of the world?  The Beetle would like to nominate the Gherkin, also known as the erotic gherkin, or more properly known as the Swiss Re Tower in the City of London.  Let the Beetle know and we will compile a list for next month’s e-news.

Volunteer Spotlight Youth Services with Iko Poran, Brazil

Iko Poran society is a Brazilian association of private non-profit , non-political, non-denominational organizations guided by the principles of democracy. The mission of our organization is to promote volunteer programs that have a positive impact on their communities and surrounding and promote a beneficial exchange between cultures. Volunteer work varies according to project. For more information see our website at http://www.ikoporan.org/ or email rj@ikoporan.org

Youth Services with TIPACOM, Peru

TIPACOM a program that helps babies, children and teenagers living in extreme poverty, mainly in Villa El Salvador as well as other pueblos jovenes in Lima. TIPACOM has developed many projects including training programs for young people. The organization also works to promote health awareness and aid the sick. Volunteers can work in any of these areas and are encouraged to organize other social project in pueblos jovenes. Those with background in Administration are needed as are English teachers. For more info, email tipacom@hotmail.com

Top Ten travel Tips by Silja Swaby

Silja was our roving correspondent at the ITW show in London in January.  We asked what were the most important travel tips she came away with after having attended some of the talks and walked around the show several times.  This is what she reported back on:

1 Insecticide evaporates quickly, so reapply frequently in heavily infested areas (Paul Goodyer, Staying Healthy on the Road).

2. Sponsorship can cost a lot of money to get, and may not be worth it in the end (James Greenwood, Global Ride on Horse Back).

3. Travel writers should have an angle, or put another way, why should they publish your work? (Travel Writing – Dream Job panel).

4. Whatever your injury check your insurance company will pay for treatment, and if you travel with a group and you go off alone, you may not be insured (Mr. Henderson, Getting the Most from your Grudge Purchase).

5. The three greatest hazards in the jungle are flood, dead trees falling on you and hornets (Ken Hames, Survive the Jungle).

6. Email your CV to yourself if you don’t want to carry copies, especially across borders (The Big Trip panel)

7. You can earn money abroad by taking a Teaching English as a Foreign Language (TEFL) course (I-to-I TEFL Workshop: Travel and Earn).

8. If you send publishers sheets of transparencies, copyright and caption each one as they may get separated (Travel Writing – Dream Job panel).

9. If you video your trip, take care with sound as wind can obliterate voices (Tarquin Cooper, How to Make & Sell a Film of your Expedition).

10. A disposable nappy is a great dressing for a head wound, it even has holes for ears (James Greenwood, Global Ride on Horse Back).

Silja Swaby is a consultant marine biologist, runs her own business, travels, and writes.  Right now she is looking for a publisher for her book about travelling light, and is planning an expedition with a horse.  If you would like to contact Silja, her e-mail address is: siljaswaby@hotmail.com