We are sorry to say that Mac is not very well, but he is still e-mailing
strong and recently sent the Beetle a collection of Mac reminiscences about
some of his travels in 1992. Here we have thoughts and experiences on India.
Vasco De Gama, Goa, India 14 Jan 1992. Got on narrow
gauge train at 830PM and arrived at Mirji Junction at 5AM where I was to
change for a wide gauge train to Delhi at 7AM. They put a notice on board in
station what train car you are suppose to go on and what berth. My name was
not on the list although I had made a reservation. Sometimes they would have
my name as Wilfred (my first name) as last name and no reservation under
either my first, middle or last name. I then looked for the number 67 (my
age then.) They put your age beside your name so all India now knows my age.
There was not even a number lucky 67 number. The station supervisor was not
worried. He said the conductor would know even if my name was not there
and to get in berth A5 if no one was in this berth. This was not
First Class which my ticket was, but second class air conditioned
sleeper which I had found I already preferred to First Class.
They gave me a side bed without curtain (all others had)
and it is door where everyone passes. It is like laying on display in Lenin’s
Tomb with a continual parade of people going through door and looking at me
in surprise. Ha! It turned out though to be a good way to meet people as
many asked me where I was from and asked me to visit them if I passed through
their city. I met the High Sheriff of Calcutta this way, a lady Indian
architect (unusual) and a Indian Army Officer that later showed me all around
Agra on his motorcycle.
Kalismer India. Got a haircut and shave in a hole in a
wall barber shop that was just wide enough for a barber chair and with a
mirror in front of you and a mirror in back of you. You could see what the
barber was doing to the back of your head. What a good idea. Barber spent
ten minutes lathering and brushing my face and then shaved it. It was so
cheap that I had him do it a second time! 5 rupees (twenty cents.)
Haircut was 10 rupees (forty cents) Getting a shave and haircut in
India was like it used to be in Japan with lots of attention and I like that.
At the YMCA hotel in New Delhi they gave you a card with
address, phone number, your room number and on its back a map of city
showing location of your hotel. Great Idea.
30 Jan 1992 in New Delhi, India. If in Delhi, try to be
there around the 26 Jan for their national day. Parades with decorated
Elephants, colourful pageants etc.) When I ordered eggs fried sunny side up
this morning they did not understand sunny side up. An Indian said I should
have said eggs Bulls eye if I wanted them sunny side up.
The huge Jain Mosque, the largest in India in Old Delhi
has souvenir stands in front selling pictures of Saddam Hussein (whatever
happened to him??) of Iraq. No pictures of Bush or me.
In the First Class waiting room in Old Delhi train station
(there is an Old Delhi Train Station and a New Delhi Train Station (different
trains to different destinations leave from each and they are quite
aways apart. Both of them are old and I am usually at the wrong one. A
well dressed Indian came up to me in the 1st Class waiting room with a porter
(coolie) (they do call them coolies) carrying his luggage (brand new) on his
head (on the coolies head.) He spoke to me and asked where I was from.
He had just came from one of the Arab States (Qatar) where he had worked as
an engineer for several years. When I mentioned about the mosque
having pictures of Saddam Hussein for sale outside the mosque and that I had
heard there was a bar in Dubai that was serving both sides at the same time (Iraqis,
Iranians off ships and American servicemen at the same time to the surprise
of both sides he said he was not surprised that the Iraq Embassy in Bahrain
was open all during the 1992 Gulf War. I didn’t think Iraqis or Iranians
Moslems drank but some do. This bar was Ponchos, was a Mexican style bar,
very popular with foreigners living in Dubai and one time a ship had been torpedoed
and those rescued and the torpeaders were in bar at the same time !) Dubai
evidently allows or looks the other way at some practices that other Arab
countries don’t allow.
In Indian train station waiting rooms I would
sometimes lay my silver space blanket down on the floor and sleep using my
belongings as a pillow. If I had to go to the toilet I would sometimes ask
an Indian lady if one was there (although I think they had separate rooms for
women only if they desired) to look after my stuff. I found Indian women
were flattered if you talked to them as a human being and they were very good
at giving information and looking after ones stuff and one. It was just me
sleeping on the floor many others did too. Instead of getting up early at
your lodging for an early train I would sleep that night in the waiting room
as did many Indians.
The Indian engineer said they had fantastic lotteries in
Dubai. They will deliver the prizes anyplace in the world. Luxury cars, lotteries
for apartments in London and Washington, D.C. etc. Fantastic duty fee shops
and Dubai is a world of luxury. Qatar is one of the richest countries in the
world (Kuwait used to be)
I was in India several times using Indian Rail Pass.
You were not questioned about sleeping in 1st class if you had a rail
pass. Besides the waiting rooms some of the train stations had accommodations
(with beds, mosquito knits etc ) nearby Arriving in Calcutta at an
ungodly hour I slept in these accommodations one time rather than try
to make it outside that early.
India is interesting.
And on a parting note: The National Geographic Traveller
for April 2004 has a very good article on the Rajasthan section of India. To
me that is the most exotic part of India. I found this comment amusing. “If you find the sometimes less than spotless conditions in India up
setting try pretending you’re British. The British don’t mind a
little dirt,” a resident of Jaipur commented. “They look on
it as part of the adventure” Me: if my British friends at the
Globetrotters Club want to sue National Geographic, I can get them a good lawyer!
Another comment was that if someone in India puts a garland of flowers around
your neck you are supposed after a few minutes to take the garland off and
carry it in your hand to show that you are humble. I wore mine for days. No
wonder India asked me to leave!
If you would like to contact Mac, he is happy to answer
e-mails: macsan400@yahoo.com