Category Archives: Main article

News from the travel industry ‘Ryanair, travel websites”

“MADRID, Dec 11 (Reuters Life!) – A charity calendar sold by Ireland’s low-cost airline Ryanair showing its air hostesses in skimpy bikinis demeans women and breaks the law, a Spanish consumer group said on Tuesday. The Ryanair 2008 calendar called “The Girls of Ryanair” has photos of air hostesses posing in and outside of planes, dressed in bikinis rather than their normal blue suits. April’s hostess is Nicola from London Stansted, who is wearing only bikini bottoms, with her breasts covered by a lifejacket. “Miss July” — Edita from Marseille — reclines backwards over a wheel with a wrench in her hand and grease on her body.

“The company is attacking the dignity of women workers in general and especially of cabin crew members, by presenting stereotypical images of these professionals which they have spent years struggling against”, Spanish consumer group FACUA said in a statement. Ryanair, which is selling the calendar for five 5 pounds ($10) and giving the proceeds to the children’s charity Angels Quest, was not immediately available for comment.

FACUA has complained about the calendar and its promotional material to Spain’s Women’s Institute, which is part of the Labour Ministry, and to the National Consumer Institute.”

Read the full article at http://in.reuters.com/article/lifestyleMolt/idINL1111819420071211

“Ryanair has come bottom of an online Irish shopping survey, despite being named one of the most efficient airlines in Europe by the Association of European Airlines. On Friday, the airline topped the European organisation’s newly released league table, which assessed airlines based on punctuality and the number of bags lost. Despite this good performance in Europe, Ryanair’s website, Ryanair.com, finished in last place in a separate survey of consumer practises at 25 online firms by Irish internet consultancy firm AMAS.”

Read the full article at

Travel websites are among the worst for online customer service, according to new research from Transversal. The travel industry came joint worst along with telecoms, insurance, consumer electronics, grocers and utilities in a survey of 10 sectors. Although travel websites have improved their ability to respond to holidaymakers’ basic questions in the last year, 60% of questions remain unanswered. Travel websites that offer email customer service options took an average of 58 hours to respond, which is only eight hours better than corresponding research carried out in 2006. Transversal monitored 10 leading UK travel companies by phone, web and email as part of its third annual customer service research.

“Despite the enormous growth in the online channel, across all sectors, our research shows that consumers are still suffering from substandard online service”, said Davin Yap, CEO, Transversal.

Read the full article at http://www.travelmole.com/stories/1124662.php?mpnlog=1


Season's greetings from the Globetrotters Club

The Globetrotters Club would like to wish all our eNewsletter readers a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.

The eNewsletter will be returning in the early 2008, until then why not read some of our most popular articles from past issues.

  1. Murder and Horses by Daniel Wallace
  2. The Beetle Goes Diving in the Similan Islands
  3. Meeting News from London
  4. Mac’s Travel Reminiscences
  5. Rio de Janeiro ‘Cidade Maravilhosa’ or ‘Reasons to be cheerful in Rio’ by Tony Annis
  6. Continue reading Season's greetings from the Globetrotters Club

London Meeting News By Padmassna

December 2007 London Meeting

At our last London meeting before Christmas, we were treated to two excellent talks.

David Waldman told us about his trip to visit the Nandi of the Rift Valley in Kenya. Inspired to visit by athletes such as Kip Keno, David wanted to discover why this pocket of Kenya has produced over 50% of the long distance running world championship and Olympic medal winners since the 1960’s.

David discovered that running is not just a hobby or a sport, but an occupation, a possible escape from the poverty where those not gifted to run do jobs like breaking rocks or selling tomatos for $3 a day. Despite having no facilities at all, David found whole families who can all run world class marathon times. The runners do a 20km run in the mornings and another 10Km at night, their gym if you can call it that is a rock attached to either end of a metal bar. “Train hard, win easy” is their motto.

Those that make it to Europe can make more money from one race than the average Kenyan makes in a lifetime. They return to buy some land, build a house and farm, though once their running days are over many unfortunately descend into alcoholism. David had set out with the idea that there is a genetic reason for the running dominance, without doubt the altitude helps, but from early on they are out rounding up their cattle, they are doing the sheepdogs job.

And when a neighbouring village come to steal cattle they literally run after them with bows and arrows. There seems to be some degree of natural selection too, those that can run get the girls and produce more runners, the rest remain on the shelf.

Our second speaker was Jo Huxster, who should have been joined by Antonia Bolingbroke-Kent, who was ill. “Tuk to the road” was the story of Jo and Ants 12,500 mile, 12 countries in 14 week trip by Tuk Tuk from Bangkok to Brighton in aid of the Charity MIND.

Anyone who has taken a ride in one of these vehicles around an asian city will know it can be a bum numbing experience. Jo got the idea a couple of years previously while on holiday in Thailand.This was not going to be any old Tuk Tuk though, this was a custom built bright pink Tuk Tuk, which they christened Ting Tong, which actually means “crazy” in Thai.

They had decided on the northern route, via Laos, China, Kazakhstan, Russia, Ukraine, Poland, Germany and Belgium. So on 28th May 2006 they set off from Bangkok, crossing the Mekong into Laos, once the paperowrk issues had been resolved. Once in China a slight hitch occured when they discovered they were not allowed on the nice fast dual carriageways, instead they had to use what amounted to cart tracks which ran frustratingly alongside the main roads.

They had to race across China, as they only had a set amount of visa time, Jo particularly enjoyed the drive across the Gobi Desert. They had been fretting about the Kazakh border, but two girls in a pink Tuk tuk got taken to the front of the queue and they were soon crossing the green Kazakh countryside, one day they had to cover over 700Km as there was nothing inbetween. On their map the Kazakh M36 road to Russia was a nice fat red line, however the reality turned out to be one a track dirt road through fields.

The Russian police broke all records for pulling them over, they were stopped 35 times in 2 weeks! Ting Tong stood up to its journey quite well, however the shock absorbers that had taken 10 Chinese all night to repair broke again, but luckily a Ukranian mechanic was able to do the job on his own in a couple of hours, so they were soon on their way again. Once they crossed into the EU it was a case of pedal to the metal and head home, via the Channel Tunnel, arriving in Brighton on 3rd September. Globies raised in excess of £100 in a collection for MIND at the meeting.

If you want to learn more about Jo’s trip, buy the book or donate to the charity you can visit their website http://www.tuktotheroad.co.uk

By Padmassana

London meetings are held at The Church of Scotland, Crown Court, behind the Fortune Theatre in Covent Garden at 2.30pm the first Saturday of each month. There is no London meeting in August, but we will be back in September. For more information, you can contact the Globetrotters Info line on (+44) 020 8674 6229, or visit the website: www.globetrotters.co.uk

London Meeting News By Padmassna

November 2007 London Meeting

Our first speaker was Phil Koniotes who took us to southern Africa to see the vaired wildlife, particularly the bird life of the area. Phil and his wife Linda took in parts of Zimbabwe, Zambia, Botswana and Namibia on their trip. Phil explained that to see the animals and birds at such close quarters they had to endure long hard days of travel to remote areas, this included what Phil described as one of the most boring bits of road on the planet, the Caprivi strip. But it was worth it for the wonderful photos of Fish Eagles, snorkelling Elephants and an extremely close up picture of a Hippo.Their trip was not all hardship, after flying into the Okovango Delta they stayed in tents with en-suites and enjoyed floodlit evenings by the side of waterholes.

Our second speaker was Jules Stewart whose talk was called Spying for the Raj. This was the fascinating story of how the Himalayas were mapped, during the period of The Great Game. The Pundits were trained in the art of taking an even stride length, whatever the terrain before being sent out to measure distances using sets of Mala beads to keep count, with 8 removed to make an even 100. The Pundits would be gone for up to 4 years before returning with their information.

By Padmassana

London meetings are held at The Church of Scotland, Crown Court, behind the Fortune Theatre in Covent Garden at 2.30pm the first Saturday of each month. There is no London meeting in August, but we will be back in September. For more information, you can contact the Globetrotters Info line on (+44) 020 8674 6229, or visit the website: www.globetrotters.co.uk

London Meeting News By Padmassna

October 2007 London Meeting

The meeting was a full house to hear Globetrotters President Janet Street-Porter give this months opening talk, Janet called her talk “4 Trips in 40 minutes”, she began with Estonia, talking about the excellent and moving Occupation Museum in Tallin before exploring outside of the capital, to the beach resort of Parnu with its art deco Scandic hotel and windswept beaches.

Across the Globe to Papua New Guinea (PNG), where she was invited to open British Council sponsored Film Festival, in a country that does not have any cinemas! She had no idea how dangerous PNG, especially Port Moresby is, when she asked if she could go shopping. No shopping, but Janet did get to meet tribal people who still sort out their differences with bows and arrows and axes. She along with the British Ambassador were dressed up in tribal dress and make up, before being given a pig as they departed.

Australias Larapinta Trail which begins in Alice Springs, was her next destination, taking 7 days to walk what is one of her favourite trails, though the annoying flies meant dressing in head gear and posting lunch letterbox style. The walk takes in places like Simpsons Gap.

Lastly Janet took us to Central Spain to the area around Aracena, a 1.5 hour drive from Seville with its Moorish castles and 13th Century Churches.The villages having a deserted cowboy feeling in the intense summer heat.

Many thanks to Janet for providing a very entertaing talk and for continuing to be our President.

After the break it was time for Ashley Butterfield, a Globetrotters Life Member. Ashley’s talk was called “Not the Magic Bus”, a reference to a new company running trips from the UK to Australia in relative comfort, well to be honest complete luxury compared to the first trips Ashley ran! Ashley got the travel bug early in life when at 12 he was encouraged to cycle from Yorkshire to London, though he cheated after Grantham, getting a lift from a Lorry diver.

After leaving school at 15 he worked for Wallace Arnold, though just in the office and soon got bored with working out how many miles the company’s busses were doing to the gallon. At 19 he left with £120 to hitch hike to India, arriving in India with £70 left, £64 of which then went on a boat back to Marseille. At this point he along with a friend bought a share in a bus which they took to India, though it kept breaking down, it had to be towed off the ferry and was refused entry into Germany because of its near bald tyres.

This was quickly remedied by a diversion into Belgium to a man who cut enough of a tread pattern to allow them back over the border! They eventually got to India and sold the bus which was on its last legs and destined for the scrap heap. Ashley decided using public transport for his trips would be easier and started running trips by rail and bus to India, he reckoned it cost £25 to get to Istanbul, he was always up for trying to make some extra money, including buying playing cards in Afghanistan and selling them in Turkey for which he spent a night in Jail.

Inbetween he worked for KFC in Earl’s Court and one day spotted a new Travel agency opening over the road, Trailfinders, He set up Asian Rover, a company which sold individual legs of the trip to India on trains and busses so that people could travel at their own speed and sold the trips through Trailfinders, he was 25% of Trailfinders business when they began, when he had to stop the trips in 1979 because of the Iranian revolution he was back to being 0.000005% of their business!

Ashley had a “Complaint” book along on his trips for passengers to let off steam about the discomfort etc, one entry from an American Circuit Court Judge probably summed up the trips “If I could I would send the worst criminals on one of Ashley’s trips rather tah jail, but it would probably be deemd a too cruel and inhuman punishment”!

By Padmassana

London meetings are held at The Church of Scotland, Crown Court, behind the Fortune Theatre in Covent Garden at 2.30pm the first Saturday of each month. There is no London meeting in August, but we will be back in September. For more information, you can contact the Globetrotters Info line on (+44) 020 8674 6229, or visit the website: www.globetrotters.co.uk

London Meeting News By Padmassna

September 2007 Meeting Report

Globetrotters new season began with a talk from Globie Jeanie Copland about Tanzania and her sponsored climb of Kilimanjaro. The first part of Jeanie’s talk showed us the sights including the migration across the Serengeti of Wildebeest and Zebra, the spectacular Victoria Falls and the Zanzibar music festival.

Part 2 was Jeanie’s sponsored climb up Kilimanjaro in aid of VSO. Jeanie took the Marango route up Kilimanjaro, she showed us the lodges where they would sleep and meals prepared by their porters each evening, it was surprising to see that there were almost as many porters and back up staff as people taking part.

At Gilmans Point, 5681 Metres is the Ice Cap, temperatures can be -20 and it was from here they set out for the top of Africa’s highest mountain.

After the break our second speaker was Bradt guide author Thammy Evans who gave us an insight into Macedonia, where she lived for a number of years.

Originally she had just intended to update an existing guide book, but after attempting to seek one out, she found that she would have to write one herself from scratch. Macedonia is a place for the outdoors type with impressive mountains, Caves and large lakes such as Lake Ohrid with its inky black waters.

Thammy also showed us the Mosques, of which the country has plenty after 500 years of Ottoman rule, it also has many Monasteries. Macedonia still has traditional crafts such as blanket making and its own version of wrestling. Macedonia only has a couple of railway lines, but is served by a bus network. As yet none of the no frills cheap airlines go there.

By Padmassana

London meetings are held at The Church of Scotland, Crown Court, behind the Fortune Theatre in Covent Garden at 2.30pm the first Saturday of each month. There is no London meeting in August, but we will be back in September. For more information, you can contact the Globetrotters Info line on (+44) 020 8674 6229, or visit the website: www.globetrotters.co.uk

London Meeting News By Padmassna

July 2007 Meeting Report.

As is the custom the July meeting was given over to “Members slides”, though in the 21st century the majority have gone digital. This year we didn’t quite manage to take in all continents, no talk on South America, but we still saw plenty of interesting places.

Nick Preston set the ball rolling with a trip to northern Thailand, showing us the temples, elephants and the Mekong river in Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai.

Sylvia Pullen took us further east to Samoa, introducing us to the wonderful beaches, lush vegetation of the islands flora and fauna, to the church going people who mix in ancient beliefs and dances.

Sue Baker’s talk was on Yunan in China, the town of Dali where her daughter has a guesthouse (www.dragonflydali.com), located near the lake shore, we saw buffallo in paddy fields and shops selling baskets, it looks a nice spot.

Jacqui Trotter then took us to one of Padmassana’s favourite cities, Istanbul, gateway to the east over the Galata bridge, super photos from the Galata Tower over the city. The colourful spice market, a trip up the Bosphorus and she also got to see the Wirling Dervishes.

Next up was guest speaker Raja, who came to tell us about the IPPG, International Porters Protection Group in northern India (http://indiaporter.tripod.com/). The porters carry loads up to 30kg over high mountains despite being ill equipped, lacking decent footwear, clothing and shelter. The group is trying to raise money for a shelter where the porters can shelter and receive medical attention. It will cost around US$4500 for the 5 months each year when it will be open.

After the interval another guest speaker, Peter showed us his trip to Ghana, where he made puppets and used them to tell stories to schoolchildren.

Francesca Jaggs took us back to Asia, Laos to be exact, this brought back very recent memories for Padmassana, as he had flown back from Vientiane only the night before the meeting. Francesca’s trip took in Vang Vieng and the wonderful temples of Luang Prabang and the Buddha cave at Pak Ou, before she headed to Vientiane.

East now for John Goddard’s trip to Papua New Guinea, after receiving a legacy, visiting the less accessible north coast, where the odd tribal war is not uncommon. Its not always the safest destination to visit, but rewarding for those that make the effort.

Back to Europe for our last speaker David Boyd, who showed us the walking paths in the greek Cyclades, these used to be the main trade routes, but have become overgrown with the advent of roads. Some beautiful photos of the vistas this quiet corner of Greece offers.

Unfortunately there was no time for Jeanie Coplands talk on Tanzania, am sure we will get to hear a much longer version later in the year.

By Padmassana

London meetings are held at The Church of Scotland, Crown Court, behind the Fortune Theatre in Covent Garden at 2.30pm the first Saturday of each month. There is no London meeting in August, but we will be back in September. For more information, you can contact the Globetrotters Info line on (+44) 020 8674 6229, or visit the website: www.globetrotters.co.uk

London Meeting News

June 2007 Meeting Report By Dan Creffield

Juliet Coombe kicked off her very entertaining talk: Black magic: Be a Devil about her travels from South America to South East Asia in search of magic and mystery by pointing out how many supposedly ‘black magic’ customs and superstitions are often no more than practical remedies and traditions passed down from generation to generation.

Why do people traditionally use garlic, she asked (other than in cooking). To keep vampires away! was the response. But more well-informed members also knew that garlic can have antibiotic properties. It also smells pleasant and has a calming effect, she explained.

The same is true of salt – often thrown over the shoulder for good luck – which has a similar antiseptic effect. Voodoo dolls have a reputation for being used as a curse, but in fact their use simply echoes the practice of acupuncture, prevalent in countries such as Haiti.

However, she did find herself mixed up in devil dancing, exorcisms and yes – some black magic. Much of it, though, could be explained away as harmless rituals. Firewalking, which Juliet said she witnessed, often represents purification.

These kinds of rituals served to ease the pain of many communities following the Tsunami disaster which hit many countries in south-east Asia. The ‘devil dancers’ common in Sri Lanka were actually desgned to scare demons away.

She also acknowledged that while much of the ‘magic’ was clearly just wild talk and nonsense, some of the things she witnessed were impossible to explain, and she became more convinced they were genuine the longer she observed some of the rituals.

For example, she said she had seen people walking through fire, placing their hands in boiling water and sticking skers through their skin without actually seeming to do themselves any physical harm or even apparently feeling pain. Ultimately, she concluded, there ARE things which we simply cannot understand.

Our next speaker, James Brabazon, showed us his Sony award-winning film Liberia – Journey without Maps. James spent many months travelling around the lawless state of Liberia with Liberians United for Reconciliation and Democracy (LURD), a rebel force formed in 1999 by Liberian refugees in West Africa who opposed the government army led by the country’s former president Charles Taylor.

The conflict threatened the stability of neighbouring Guinea and Sierra Leone. James frequently feared for his life and witnessed murder and horrific violence on a regular basis. Some of the footage showed soldiers – some only barely into thei teens – eating a dead enemy’s heart (not too graphically though, thankfully!). Taylor has since been sanctioned by the United Nations for war crimes, and is currently on trial.

James explained that he originally went to Liberia for three weeks but quickly realised this relatively short amount of time would not adequately capture the scale of human suffering taking place in the war-torn country.

He was constantly astonished by the lifestyle of people in the country. Time was never fixed, he explained, with the term “soon” meaning anything from tomorrow to in a month.

The soldiers clearly lacked much in way of military training, often mixing grenades with fuses of different lengths. Once a grenade went off in a car, killing one man and injuring another badly. James said it was sheer luck that he decided not to ride in the car on that day.

However, he was also impressed by the indomitable spirit of the people, and their willingness to fight on even when the cause seemed hopeless.

By Dan Creffield

London meetings are held at The Church of Scotland, Crown Court, behind the Fortune Theatre in Covent Garden at 2.30pm the first Saturday of each month. There is no London meeting in August, but we will be back in September. For more information, you can contact the Globetrotters Info line on (+44) 020 8674 6229, or visit the website: www.globetrotters.co.uk

London Meeting News

May 2007 Meeting Report By Chitvari

Tom Fremantle returned to Globetrotters in May to impart his travel philosophy and to share some inspirations for his journeys. His talk, Journeys in slow motion – lively tales of slow travel was a medley of his trips, including his bike ride from Swanbourne, UK (famous for its Norman church) to Swanbourne, Australia (famous for its nudist beach)! This trip was partly inspired by his great, great, great uncle who sailed to Australia in 1829, and after whom the Fremantle port is named.

Tom told us of books that have inspired him, including Travels with Charlie by John Steinbeck and Travels with a Donkey by Robert Louis Stevenson. However, Tom suggested that travel need not be to far flung places and quoted a further book Travels around my Bedroom by Xavier de Maistre.

He urged us to ponder Homer’s words that it’s not the journey itself but what you bring back with you that matters. When asked for his one piece of wisdom, he replied “that there is an awful lot of doom mongering in the world but travel gives one the privilege of seeing it through different eyes, less cynical eyes and to experience the wonderful support of others” … he then proceeded to give a second gem, “don’t procrastinate!”

Our second talk was by Amar Grover who told of his travels through China and Tibet: Yunnan to Lhasa by road from sub-tropical to Himalayan peaks. He started in Dhali, a beautiful walled town as popular with Chinese tourists as with foreign visitors and which is dominated by the San Ta Buddhist sculptures. Amar described the local nomadic Naxi people, whose women dress in traditional black and blue aprons and who rule the community … inheriting the wealth and choosing their lovers.

Amar told how he encountered the great and much worshipped bend in the Yangtse river at Shiga, where the red army crossed on their long great march (later forming the communist party). He described the “water pipe bridge” that he used to cross the river as he continued to Zhangdian (China’s Shangri La) still 1,600km, four rivers and six rugged ranges away from Lhasa.

Tsakalho was Amore’s first Tibetan town. From here he crossed snow covered passes such as the Gama La pass that with its 180 bends takes one from winter to summer in a matter of hours … unless that is you are walking, as Alexandra David-Neel did in the 1920s (My Journey to Lhasa) while disguised as a simple monk.

Amar arrived in Lhasa, a modern Chinese city and stepped from his jeep (the journey from China to Tibet still has to be by organised tour – although that can comprise two-three people) onto the 104 bus. Lhasa is the city of the holy Jokhang temple around which pilgrims walk the 1km Barkhar circuit (clockwise) … demonstrating that the Tibetan faith remains strong, even against the odds.

By Chitvari

London meetings are held at The Church of Scotland, Crown Court, behind the Fortune Theatre in Covent Garden at 2.30pm the first Saturday of each month. There is no London meeting in August, but we will be back in September. For more information, you can contact the Globetrotters Info line on (+44) 020 8674 6229, or visit the website: www.globetrotters.co.uk

London Meeting News By Padmassna

April 2007 London meeting

Despite the hot weather this months meeting was well attended, the members listened to two excellent talks.

Our first speaker was Jessica Boyd who showed us the Zabbelan, or garbage collectors of Cairo. Originally this population of Coptic Christians, who live in an area north of Cairo’s Citadel collected rubbish to feed their pigs.

Nowadays Jessica explained that they are responsible for collecting 3000 tonnes of rubbish each day. The rubbish is brought back to their suburb by the men and the next day the women sort the rubbish so that it can be processed for recycling.

The Kings of this are the families who specialise in plastics; they even have shredders and cleaning processes and employ workers, where there’s muck there’s brass or Egyptian pounds at least. Other groups recycle paper, cloth and even shoes. The Zabbelan are doing what the western world is trying to achieve, Cairo actually has one of the best records for recycling the city’s trash in the world.

However the Zabbelan’s livelihood is being threatened by multi national companies brought in by the government on a commercial basis, one example being that the Zabbelan now have to pay to collect rubbish in some areas, while the government pays a multi national to do the job.

After the break our second speaker was Jonathan Kaplan, whose talk was entitled “A surgical sojourn in the Kurdistan Mountains”. Jonathan showed us the reality of working for an NGO in a war zone as a doctor. Just getting into Iraq meant an awkward journey via Syria and Turkey, his mission to set up a forward treatment centre.

When he eventually managed to meet up with his colleagues from the French NGO AMI, they started work using a tent as a field hospital, treating injured combatants who in some cases had been carried on their shoulders comrades for days over the mountains in order to get treatment.

Jonathan told us he soon learned that there are limitations as to what he can do in these conditions, patients died under the knife, where as in a conventional hospital with proper equipment they may have lived. He realised the injured chances of survival would be greater if he were to set up on the other side of the mountains.

Once in Iraq they set up in a fort, however getting equipment in was another headache as a gung ho US helicopter crew managed to throw out their pallets of equipment along with food aid attached to parachutes, they saw their precious equipment and drugs smash all over the mountain side. But they salvaged enough to start up and were soon treating the wounded. They also treated civilians; many children had to have toes amputated after a frost bitten trek over the mountains.

Before he set off, Jonathan had asked his surgeon father for advice, his father gave him two pieces, Fill your stomach when you can and empty your bladder when you can! Jonathan has written a couple of books about what he termed his questionable career choices, they are The Dressing Station: A Surgeon’s Chronicle of War and Medicine and Contact Wounds: A War Surgeon’s Education

By Padmassana

London meetings are held at The Church of Scotland, Crown Court, behind the Fortune Theatre in Covent Garden at 2.30pm the first Saturday of each month. There is no London meeting in August, but we will be back in September. For more information, you can contact the Globetrotters Info line on (+44) 020 8674 6229, or visit the website: www.globetrotters.co.uk

London Meeting News By Padmassna

March 2007 London Meeting

This month Simon Banks showed us his cycling trip to China, showing us how it was in cities like Shanghai and how just a few years later they have become ultra modern, with neon lit skyscrapers. Shanghai now also boasts the world’s fastest train; the Maglev which delivers travellers from the airport to the city. Simon loves Chinese food and advised us to always ask for “Number 31” from the menu, saying it’s always different.

After the break Globies welcomed back Alistair Humphreys – Cycling the world. This was a humorous alphabetical talk, an A-Z dip into his 46,000 mile, 60 country trip around the Globe, taking in delights such as the Salt Hotel in Bolivia and trying to ride his bike with his eyes closed across the salt flats of Salar de Uyuni, just because he could! He also showed us abandoned towns in Russia and the town of Mullet in Albania. You can read more about Alistair’s travels at www.roundtheworldbybike.com

By Padmassna

London meetings are held at The Church of Scotland, Crown Court, behind the Fortune Theatre in Covent Garden at 2.30pm the first Saturday of each month. There is no London meeting in August, but we will be back in September. For more information, you can contact the Globetrotters Info line on (+44) 020 8674 6229, or visit the website: www.globetrotters.co.uk

MeetingNews from London by Padmassana

February 2007

Another month when there was standing room only in Covent Garden to hear two excellent talks. Bradt guide author David Atkinson showed us what there is to see and do in Bolivia, including the shack where Che Guevara died and to show us the Butch and Sundance trail. For those more into beautiful scenery we saw the Salar De Uyuni along with the “Salt Hotel”, the National parks along with the trekking opportunities and a death defying mountain bike descent. For more about David you can visit his website at www.atkinsondavid.co.uk

After the break Globies welcomed back Juliet Coombe, last year she talked to us about dropping everything to go to Sri Lanka and help in any way she could after the tsunami. Her talk this time was about how doing that has changed her life, including meeting her Sri Lankan husband and living in Galle. Juliet explained that Galle Fort actually survived the tsunami intact because it is built of ships ballast and coral. The cricket ground near the fort and other areas close by were decimated, but they are coming back to life. The tsunami has made some interesting possibilities for divers including seeing a fleet of buses and what is now an under water church. The railway that we saw pictures of has now been repaired and Juliet’s message is that Sri Lanka does not want charity, but it does want visitors to return for their holidays so that the people can rebuild their lives with dignity.

March 2007

This month Simon Banks showed us his cycling trip to China, showing us how it was in cities like Shanghai and how just a few years later they have become ultra modern, with neon lit skyscrapers. Shanghia now also boasts the world’s fastest train; the Maglev which delivers travellers from the airport to the city. Simon loves Chinese food and advised us to always ask for “Number 31” from the menu, saying it’s always different.

After the break Globies welcomed back Alistair Humphreys – Cycling the world. This was a humorous alphabetical talk, an A-Z dip into his 46,000 mile, 60 country trip around the Globe, taking in delights such as the Salt Hotel in Bolivia and trying to ride his bike with his eyes closed across the salt flats of Salar de Uyuni, just because he could! He also showed us abandoned towns in Russia and the town of Mullet in Albania. You can read more about Alistair’s travels at www.roundtheworldbybike.com

By Padmassana

Next Meeting: Saturday, 14th April

Jessica Boyd – The Zabbalen, Cairo’s rubbish collectors and recyclers – Jessica, with Bill Finnegan, spent three weeks with this indigenous Cairo community and Jonathan Kaplan – A Surgical sojourn in Iraqi Kurdistan mountains Jonathan works in remote parts of the world, under the extreme conditions of battlefield and disaster zones. He has written vivid, wryly funny accounts of survival his own and patients in “The Dressing Station” +“Contact Wounds” and is surgeon, teacher, writer, TV medical advisor, photographer journalist and documentary film-maker.

London meetings are held at The Church of Scotland, Crown Court, behind the Fortune Theatre in Covent Garden at 2.30pm the first Saturday of each month. There is no London meeting in August, but we will be back in September. For more information, you can contact the Globetrotters Info line on +44 (0) 20 8674 6229, or visit the website: www.globetrotters.co.uk


Meeting News from London by Padmassana February 2007

Another month when there was standing room only in Covent Garden to hear two excellent talks. Bradt guide author David Atkinson showed us what there is to see and do in Bolivia, including the shack where Che Guevara died and to show us the Butch and Sundance trail. For those more into beautiful scenery we saw the Salar De Uyuni along with the “Salt Hotel”, the National parks along with the trekking opportunities and a death defying mountain bike descent. For more about David you can visit his website at www.atkinsondavid.co.uk

After the break Globies welcomed back Juliet Coombe, last year she talked to us about dropping everything to go to Sri Lanka and help in any way she could after the tsunami. Her talk this time was about how doing that has changed her life, including meeting her Sri Lankan husband and living in Galle. Juliet explained that Galle Fort actually survived the tsunami intact because it is built of ships ballast and coral. The cricket ground near the fort and other areas close by were decimated, but they are coming back to life. The tsunami has made some interesting possibilities for divers including seeing a fleet of buses and what is now an under water church. The railway that we saw pictures of has now been repaired and Juliet’s message is that Sri Lanka does not want charity, but it does want visitors to return for their holidays so that the people can rebuild their lives with dignity.

March 2007

This month Simon Banks showed us his cycling trip to China, showing us how it was in cities like Shanghai and how just a few years later they have become ultra modern, with neon lit skyscrapers. Shanghia now also boasts the world’s fastest train; the Maglev which delivers travellers from the airport to the city. Simon loves Chinese food and advised us to always ask for “Number 31” from the menu, saying it’s always different.

After the break Globies welcomed back Alistair Humphreys – Cycling the world. This was a humorous alphabetical talk, an A-Z dip into his 46,000 mile, 60 country trip around the Globe, taking in delights such as the Salt Hotel in Bolivia and trying to ride his bike with his eyes closed across the salt flats of Salar de Uyuni, just because he could! He also showed us abandoned towns in Russia and the town of Mullet in Albania. You can read more about Alistair’s travels at www.roundtheworldbybike.com

By Padmassana

Next Meeting: Saturday, 14th April

Jessica Boyd – The Zabbalen, Cairo’s rubbish collectors and recyclers – Jessica, with Bill Finnegan, spent three weeks with this indigenous Cairo community and Jonathan Kaplan – A Surgical sojourn in Iraqi Kurdistan mountains Jonathan works in remote parts of the world, under the extreme conditions of battlefield and disaster zones. He has written vivid, wryly funny accounts of survival his own and patients in “The Dressing Station” +“Contact Wounds” and is surgeon, teacher, writer, TV medical advisor, photographer journalist and documentary film-maker.

London meetings are held at The Church of Scotland, Crown Court, behind the Fortune Theatre in Covent Garden at 2.30pm the first Saturday of each month. There is no London meeting in August, but we will be back in September. For more information, you can contact the Globetrotters Info line on +44 (0) 20 8674 6229, or visit the website: www.globetrotters.co.uk


Overseas Meetings

We used to have meetings in New York City and New Braunfels, Texas. Regrettably, after having done a superb job, neither organiser is able to give their time to Globetrotter meetings. If you are based in New York or New Braunfels and have the time to commit to pick up where our previous organisers left off, we’d love to hear from you – please see our FAQ or contact our the Branch Liaison Officer via our Website at Meeting FAQ. If you are based elsewhere and are interested in starting a branch of the Globetrotters, please feel free to contact us.


Meeting News from Ontario

For information on Ontario meetings, please contact Svatka Hermanek: shermane@schulich.yorku.ca or Bruce Weber: tel. 416-203-0911 or Paul Webb: tel. 416-694-8259.

Meetings are held on the third Friday of January, March, May, September and November, usually at the Old York Tower, 85 Esplanade (It is at the south-east corner of Church & Esplanade – 2 blocks east from the Hummingbird Centre at 8.00 p.m. Meetings are held on the third Friday of January, March, May, September and November. Usually at the Woodsworth Co-op, Penthouse, 133, Wilton Street in downtown Toronto at 8.00 p.m.


TheBirth of Saudi Arabia – Filming in the Desert by Tony Annis

The first hurdle nearly became my undoing – Customs are notoriously difficult with film crews but when one of the cases slipped, broke open and bullets spilled on to floor around the custom’s officer’s feet, I knew by his bulging eyes he was about to take an ugly pill and be very, very difficult. After a spluttering that seemed to go on forever, there followed a torrent of Arabic that flowed over me like raging tide. I let him run out of breath before I attempted show him my papers, permissions in both Arabic and English in what seemed to no avail. However, after a time he did calm down and I explained to him, “It is all pre 1915 and the bullets are blanks” – This did not impress him at all but he finally let the rifles and blanks through to my assistant, who moved like lightning to put them on a truck and roared off to our base. If I thought my troubles were over I was wrong. I had hoped he would just read the permissions and let the other boxes through. As I reached to push a large industrial trolley out of the Custom area, he stepped in front and motioned for me to open them. I showed my papers again and he again told me to open crates in what probably was exasperated Arabic. Stalling no longer, he opened the crates. The first one contained Lewis machine guns, belt ammunition, for the use of, etc, he rushed to another opened that and saw explosives of the Special Effects Dept. He threw a major tantrum, shouted, men rushed up and he hadn’t even reached the very large crate that contained the Artillery piece!

About five years ago, just after it became religiously correct to play music and TV was up and running, though mostly programmes showing the Mosque or the Royal household. McMillan Films had taken me from the cold of a London winter to the heat of Saudi Arabia to help in making a Drama Documentary about the ‘Birth of Saudi Arabia’ and ‘King Abdulaziz ibn Saud’ who reigned for over fifty years and was a remarkable brave clever soldier, religious leader and statesman and he was both a good friend of Winston Churchill and President Roosevelt. A remarkable well informed man on world affairs the king had two radio operators, whose job it was to monitor world news and give a summary to him every night of the week. My job as 1st Assistant Director/Production Manager was to help organize and make it all happen – With the help of course, of a Regiment of Cavalry, some of the Camel Corps and two battalions of infantry from the Kingdom.

Thanks to Customs, a little rescheduling was needed. So we started with what we had, rifles and blanks. The king had to clear the bandits off the Caravan Trails and make them safe for trade and this became one of our first scenes.

The hiatus with the Customs’ continued, it was more than their ‘jobs worth’ to let our weapons, props through – So we had to make appointments higher up the food chain, to deal with this problem and as with many things in the Kingdom, this took some time.

In this down time between appointments the Producer, Michael McMillan and I went to see the Camel races – Sand instead of grass track and little boys were the jockeys, other than that it was just like a racecourse in England! We were also invited to a sumptuous lunch at a GPS location in the desert, a three hour drive seeing no one or anything but sand but on arrival we joined a couple of thousand others for sweet tea, on a carpet, by a log fire; hundreds of miles, maybe thousands from the nearest forest. A traditional meal of Mutton, Camel, exotic salads and fruits both to eat and drink; laid out in the tents. Each tent held about four hundred men and of course no women present at all. Cross legged on the carpeted interior, we discussed the Euro and the probability that it would take fifty years for Europe to become a federation! After lunch a strange sort of singing, chant filled the air and the Prince, courtiers started to sway, swords in the air. Suddenly, I was offered a sword, put in the middle and before I could worry if I could do the dance and not slice anyone with my weapon, I was amongst them. The clash of swords, the swaying of bodies to the slow drum beat, the thrusting intrusion of a news camera, this I thought, is what it’s like when you dance with a Prince!

The heat seemed stifling, the sun was trying to bore its way through my Tilley hat, the sweat was sticking to my back, I tried to clear my parched throat; before starting my radio check. The stillness of the desert was only broken by my Walkie Talkie radio, “Turn over sound”, “Sound rolling”, came the reply, “Action Cavalry”, “Turn over cameras, stand by special effects”, I said . The horses appeared, from a walk, gathered pace into a cantor and as they approached the camera and myself the cavalry became a thunderous noise of drumming hooves with dust enveloping both man and beast. Special effects joined in and from what had been a dead silence of a few moments ago was now a cacophony of explosions, ground shaking, men shouting their battle cries, the smell of cordite in the air caching in your throat, your adrenalin pumping as this regiment of horses sweeps by only passing a few feet away. A famous General once said, “The only thing worse than a battle won, is a battle lost”. Our battle with the customs now over we had started to film our horse and camel charges and the reason I had time to take these photos is that these set pieces take time to set up. Like real soldiering: filming is all about ‘hurry up and wait.’ The shot of the single charging warrior, I sometimes put on the front of an envelope that contains my CV – With a balloon coming out of his mouth, the words ”My CV must get thru” in it.

King Abdulaziz was the first person to put machine guns on moving vehicles. Model T Fords had Lewis guns set up on them, so they could be moved about the battlefield. So with his small force but with cannon, machine guns, the latest rifles of the time, he out thought as well as out fought his enemies.

We set up an ambush and made use of our Lewis guns, the ordinary Saudis so peaceful now, we found it most difficult to teach them to pretend to fight but they certainly died well in our ambush! Of course this scene was cut from the film, as they did not want the real story warts and all.

The Cavalry were normally used in demonstrations of horsemanship, in Royal tournaments etc. So they really enjoyed riding the desert and taking part in mock battles and too be very honest I also thought myself privileged to be enjoying all the fun of old style warfare but without the casualties or consequences.

About the author Tony Annis: Have camera will travel. Over the top but not yet over the hill. Past sixty five and still alive, my get up and go has not entirely got up and gone – like good whisky, I’m still going strong. Travelling through these global villages of ours is great adventure but to me it is the people that make this wonderful world, as well as the exotic places that I love to visit. See you over the next horizon, Tony.


The Birth of Saudi Arabia – Filming in the Desert by Tony Annis

The first hurdle nearly became my undoing – Customs are notoriously difficult with film crews but when one of the cases slipped, broke open and bullets spilled on to floor around the custom’s officer’s feet, I knew by his bulging eyes he was about to take an ugly pill and be very, very difficult. After a spluttering that seemed to go on forever, there followed a torrent of Arabic that flowed over me like raging tide. I let him run out of breath before I attempted show him my papers, permissions in both Arabic and English in what seemed to no avail. However, after a time he did calm down and I explained to him, “It is all pre 1915 and the bullets are blanks” – This did not impress him at all but he finally let the rifles and blanks through to my assistant, who moved like lightning to put them on a truck and roared off to our base. If I thought my troubles were over I was wrong. I had hoped he would just read the permissions and let the other boxes through. As I reached to push a large industrial trolley out of the Custom area, he stepped in front and motioned for me to open them. I showed my papers again and he again told me to open crates in what probably was exasperated Arabic. Stalling no longer, he opened the crates. The first one contained Lewis machine guns, belt ammunition, for the use of, etc, he rushed to another opened that and saw explosives of the Special Effects Dept. He threw a major tantrum, shouted, men rushed up and he hadn’t even reached the very large crate that contained the Artillery piece!

About five years ago, just after it became religiously correct to play music and TV was up and running, though mostly programmes showing the Mosque or the Royal household. McMillan Films had taken me from the cold of a London winter to the heat of Saudi Arabia to help in making a Drama Documentary about the ‘Birth of Saudi Arabia’ and ‘King Abdulaziz ibn Saud’ who reigned for over fifty years and was a remarkable brave clever soldier, religious leader and statesman and he was both a good friend of Winston Churchill and President Roosevelt. A remarkable well informed man on world affairs the king had two radio operators, whose job it was to monitor world news and give a summary to him every night of the week. My job as 1st Assistant Director/Production Manager was to help organize and make it all happen – With the help of course, of a Regiment of Cavalry, some of the Camel Corps and two battalions of infantry from the Kingdom.

Thanks to Customs, a little rescheduling was needed. So we started with what we had, rifles and blanks. The king had to clear the bandits off the Caravan Trails and make them safe for trade and this became one of our first scenes.

The hiatus with the Customs’ continued, it was more than their ‘jobs worth’ to let our weapons, props through – So we had to make appointments higher up the food chain, to deal with this problem and as with many things in the Kingdom, this took some time.

In this down time between appointments the Producer, Michael McMillan and I went to see the Camel races – Sand instead of grass track and little boys were the jockeys, other than that it was just like a racecourse in England! We were also invited to a sumptuous lunch at a GPS location in the desert, a three hour drive seeing no one or anything but sand but on arrival we joined a couple of thousand others for sweet tea, on a carpet, by a log fire; hundreds of miles, maybe thousands from the nearest forest. A traditional meal of Mutton, Camel, exotic salads and fruits both to eat and drink; laid out in the tents. Each tent held about four hundred men and of course no women present at all. Cross legged on the carpeted interior, we discussed the Euro and the probability that it would take fifty years for Europe to become a federation! After lunch a strange sort of singing, chant filled the air and the Prince, courtiers started to sway, swords in the air. Suddenly, I was offered a sword, put in the middle and before I could worry if I could do the dance and not slice anyone with my weapon, I was amongst them. The clash of swords, the swaying of bodies to the slow drum beat, the thrusting intrusion of a news camera, this I thought, is what it’s like when you dance with a Prince!

The heat seemed stifling, the sun was trying to bore its way through my Tilley hat, the sweat was sticking to my back, I tried to clear my parched throat; before starting my radio check. The stillness of the desert was only broken by my Walkie Talkie radio, “Turn over sound”, “Sound rolling”, came the reply, “Action Cavalry”, “Turn over cameras, stand by special effects”, I said . The horses appeared, from a walk, gathered pace into a cantor and as they approached the camera and myself the cavalry became a thunderous noise of drumming hooves with dust enveloping both man and beast. Special effects joined in and from what had been a dead silence of a few moments ago was now a cacophony of explosions, ground shaking, men shouting their battle cries, the smell of cordite in the air caching in your throat, your adrenalin pumping as this regiment of horses sweeps by only passing a few feet away. A famous General once said, “The only thing worse than a battle won, is a battle lost”. Our battle with the customs now over we had started to film our horse and camel charges and the reason I had time to take these photos is that these set pieces take time to set up. Like real soldiering: filming is all about ‘hurry up and wait.’ The shot of the single charging warrior, I sometimes put on the front of an envelope that contains my CV – With a balloon coming out of his mouth, the words ”My CV must get thru” in it.

King Abdulaziz was the first person to put machine guns on moving vehicles. Model T Fords had Lewis guns set up on them, so they could be moved about the battlefield. So with his small force but with cannon, machine guns, the latest rifles of the time, he out thought as well as out fought his enemies.

We set up an ambush and made use of our Lewis guns, the ordinary Saudis so peaceful now, we found it most difficult to teach them to pretend to fight but they certainly died well in our ambush! Of course this scene was cut from the film, as they did not want the real story warts and all.

The Cavalry were normally used in demonstrations of horsemanship, in Royal tournaments etc. So they really enjoyed riding the desert and taking part in mock battles and too be very honest I also thought myself privileged to be enjoying all the fun of old style warfare but without the casualties or consequences.

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About the author Tony Annis: Have camera will travel. Over the top but not yet over the hill. Past sixty five and still alive, my get up and go has not entirely got up and gone – like good whisky, I’m still going strong. Travelling through these global villages of ours is great adventure but to me it is the people that make this wonderful world, as well as the exotic places that I love to visit. See you over the next horizon, Tony.


The Beetle Visits Rabaul, Papua New Guinea

So where exactly is Papua New Guinea or PNG as it is affectionately known?

Crudely, if you draw a line straight up, north from Cairns in Australia’s Queensland, you will get to Port Moresby, PNG’s capital. The first time the Beetle visited PNG, she flew from Cairns (about 2 hours) – a big mistake as it is far easier, quicker and cheaper to fly from the UK to Singapore and then take one of the twice weekly Air Nuigini flights from Singapore to Port Moresby. Jon, a Beetle friend says that depending on the season, flying from Cairns to Port Moresby can be cheaper than flying from Singapore.

The Beetle has a soft spot for PNG, for once you get outside Port Moresby which does not have such a good feel to it – and I am not talking about staying in one of the hotels close to the airport – that is not the real Port Moresby – Papua New Guinea is a delight; not easy to travel around, you need to take flights, but the people are hospitable and friendly, the scenery stunning and so very different to the normal south Pacific type adventure. From lush jungles, to volcanoes, to mountains, fabulous walking trails, birds of paradise, WWII remains, it has so much to offer.

The Beetle always calls in on PNG Arts when she is Port Moresby. As I said, you are wise to exercise considerable caution when visiting Port Moresby, but if you have time to visit just one place, then it has to be PNG Arts for all manner of artisan objects – from salt and pepper shakers in vaguely silly erotic shapes to ceremonial shields, (not as naff as it sounds) coffee tables and all manner of furniture, pictures and carved wooden animals. Most of the work on sale is crafted by PNG people in the outlying villages, mountains and islands and much of it is sold on a cooperative basis.

You don’t need to worry about getting your newly acquired purchases home as PNG Arts has a reliable packing, crating and shipping service, which the Beetle has twice used and all items arrived safely in London, taking about three months – see the very exciting picture left.

Anyway, down to business, this is not an ad for PNG Art, the Beetle wants to talk about Rabaul. Rabaul is a natural harbour on one of PNG’s islands, this one is New Britain, part of the Bismark Archipelago, which is immediately north of the main part of PNG. Rabaul has a sheltered deep harbour which allows good anchorage for large cargo and cruise ships. The harbour itself is a massive flooded caldera of an ancient volcano – it here that the Beetle did many fantastic dives. See the picture above right of a very undignified Beetle hanging on to some dead coral for dear life as the currents threatened to wash her away.

From 1910 until 1937 Rabaul was under German control and the base of Japanese activities in the South Pacific during World War II and there are many remains and relics to be seen as a result of this and subsequent Japanese occupation.

Rabaul has an unfortunate cycle of devastating volcano eruptions. They appear to happen on a 50 or 60 year basis, which is how long it takes for the magma to build up a plug which will eventually have to be removed – by erupting. The last eruption happened in 1994 and prior to that, it was in 1937 and 1878. The 1994 eruption destroyed most of Rabaul so a new capital, Kokopo, was built 20km away, and the new airport is at Tokua, a little farther away on the far side of the caldera. There are still buildings around the volcano in Rabaul and there still is a town of Rabaul (the Beetle stayed there) though it is now on a much smaller scale.

The picture above left shows the volcano still gently steaming away as it has continued to do so since 1994; it was very disconcerting to be diving so close to an active volcano.

The picture right shows Rabaul submerged by ash.

Other than diving, which was the Beetle’s principal reason for being in PNG, there is a lot to do and see. It is easy to organise a day trip to take a look around the area; best not done on a Friday as this is pay day and some of the local men get drunk and you may be a little limited as to where you can go – the Beetle could not visit the cemetery, for example, because its entrance was blocked by men boozing and it was not worth the hassle – not that we are trying to give PNG men a bad name, but there is a fair amount of alcohol abuse which can be seen throughout the South Pacific.

The Kokopo War Museum

If you have an interest in WW2 artefacts and wish to gain a better understanding of the events in this part of the South Pacific, there is no better place to visit than the Kokopo war museum. It is largely set outdoor amidst beautifully manicured gardens with a gorgeous collection of frangipani ad star fruit trees.

The museum collection comprising mostly Japanese artefacts was largely assembled and donated by the efforts of Brian Bennett. The collection contains a large collection of WWII artefacts from the Rabaul relating to the history of the area, including the German colonial period, pre-war and WWII Japanese occupation such as tanks, search lights, munitions, motorcycles, half-tracks, guns, artillery, machine guns, and the wrecks and partial wreck of many Japanese aircraft.

There are also displays of local art and culture. There are some very poignant exhibits, including letters home by various servicemen describing their war time activities. According to Steve Mago who writes on the PNG Forum, (and has been a former contributor to the Globetrotter e-newsletter,) at the height of the war, 97,000 Japanese troops were stationed in Rabaul and its surrounding areas. There were also thousands of Allied POW’s, slave labourers and even 800 prostitutes from Korean and Japan.

Japanese War Memorial A war memorial was constructed by the Japanese after WWII as a peace memorial, and in memory to those who lost their life in and around Rabaul. It is on a hill above the town, with a fabulous view of the area that was once occupied by thousands of Japanese Navy and Army personnel. The memorial is not without a little controversy. The huge map of the Pacific with New Britain and Rabaul at the centre forms the background of the memorial also shows the sites of Jap anese conquests. This elicited a response from the Australian government that the memorial signified Japanese occupation rather than promote their subsequent peaceful intentions. You can see in the Beetle photo left that there is a hole that lets the sun shine directly onto a simple pillar shrine.

There is a volcano observation station high on a hill where visitors can go and meet with the seismologist staff and see the graph paper slowly moving round with squiggles indication volcanic movement.

The road up to the Observation Centre has a series of well developed cave and tunnel systems, as does nearly every other road and ravine in the town area of Rabaul.

Close to the memorial are some bunkers with Japanese writing in them as the photo right shows.

There is a volcano observation station high on a hill where visitors can go and meet with the seismologist staff and see the graph paper slowly moving round with squiggles indication volcanic movement.

The road up to the Observation Centre has a series of well developed cave and tunnel systems, as does nearly every other road and ravine in the town area of Rabaul.

Tunnels and Barges

The Japanese used forced labour to build a series of tunnels through many parts of Rabaul. You can still see these tunnels sixty years later. Some of the tunnels were used to live in, store munitions and guns, and others were used to house barges. The Beetle photo left shows the remains of one such barge. One tunnel in particular is large enough to have stored five landing craft. During the war, these were carefully lifted out of the tunnel using a hoist system, taken across to the cliff face where they were lowered into the water.


Archaeological Sites in Macedonia by Matt Barrett

If you were around a few years back you may have noticed the sudden embracing of the region of Macedonia as Greece, or more specifically, the name Macedonia . It was the period of disintegration of the country once known as Yugoslavia and a small, poor region calling itself Macedonia declared independence and laid claim to the name, not altogether inappropriate since they had been calling themselves Macedonian for the entire time they were part of Yugoslavia and perhaps for centuries before that.

The problem was that Greece, which has its own region of Macedonia became a little nervous, because what if these Macedonian neighbours to the north decided they wanted to combine with their ‘brothers’ in the south, to create a greater Macedonia, with a large port like Thessaloniki as their capital and centre of commerce? An unlikely scenario but nevertheless not an impossible one and feeling it is better safe then sorry the Greek government made a very strong effort to make it clear to the world, and themselves, that there is only one Macedonia, and it is in Greece. Everywhere you looked were signs, posters, and graffiti stating “Macedonia is 4000 Years Greek”, and the sun symbol of Alexander the great (which the Yugo-Macedons had claimed for their flag) suddenly became more visible then the blue and white of the Greek flag.

We all know what happened. Due to Greek pressure the new country was stuck with the name FYROM, a name so unromantic and difficult to say that their prospects for world domination lLake Prespa, Macedonia, Greeceooks dim. But the story here is Greek Macedonia, one of the most beautiful regions of Greece, and an area which will grow in importance as the commercial and cultural centre of the Balkans in the years to come.

Now Macedonia is the second largest prefecture in Greece and its capital, Thessaloniki is the second largest city in Greece. The beautiful Prespa lakesare one of Europe’s most important bird sanctuaries and Mount Olympus is the highest mountain in Greece. Thessaloniki is rich in culture and is perhaps the most entertaining city in Greece when it comes to nightlife and eating out and is the birthplace of some of Greece’s finest musicians and basketball players. The city of Kastoria on lake Orestiada is considered to be Greece’s most beautiful city by the Greeks themselves. The Halkidiki Peninsula with its three prongs of Kassandra, Sithonia and Mount Athos run from crowded tourist resorts to beautiful remote beaches all the way to simple monasticism.

If you are looking for an area to explore, either by car or local bus, or just a place to settle in and get to know the region and its people, then Macedonia will not disappoint you.

Vergina

Vergina, MacedoniaFounded by King Perdikas in the 7th Century BC it was formally known as Aigaes and was the first capital of Macedonia. When the capital was moved to Pella it was continued to be used as the royal burial grounds. In 336 BC, King Phillip II was assassinated by one of his seven bodyguards while attending the wedding of his daughter Cleopatra in the theatre.

The Royal Palace was built for King Antigonas Gonatas, and while few of the walls that have been excavated stand very tall, the size of the area they cover is impressive. Archaeologists presume it was the summer residence of the king. The Royal Tomb has yielded great treasures, belonging to King Phillip, father of Alexander the great. All of these artefacts are in the archaeological museum in Thessaloniki which should be seen before visiting Vergina in order to get a more clear impression of what you are looking at. The tomb itself is still being excavated and is not open to the general public as of this writing. The Macedonian tomb with its facade of 4 marble columns, was a promising find when unearthed but unfortunately did not contain the vast treasures of the Royal tomb. It does contain an impressive marble throne or at least what is left of it.

Dion

Ancient Dion, Macedonia, GreeceAncient Dion was an important religious centre for worshipping the Gods of nearby Mount Olympus. This is where Phillip II came to celebrate his victories and his son Alexander came to make his sacrifices here before going off to conquer the East. While most of the statues which were not only found virtually intact, but with traces of colour, are in the nearby museum in the town of Dion, they have been replaced with copies. The Sanctuary of Isis is perhaps the most interesting discovery so far. An earthquake had displaced water and mud and the building was hidden for centuries under 6 feet of water which protected it from vandals. The temple still sits in the water and a copy of the statue of Aphrodite can be seen there.

Pella

Macedonia, GreeceThe Capital of Macedonia moved from Vergina to Pella in the 5th Century BC and was in effect the capital of Greece. Many people come here to see the exceptional mosaics discovered in the remains of houses and public buildings. The museum is one of Greece’s best on-site archaeology museums with a display of pottery, jewellery and mosaics found at the site. The remains of the buildings have impressed archaeologists and led them to believe that the Macedonians enjoyed a high level of wealth.

Philippi

Philippi, Macedonia, GreeceSite of the famous battle where the armies of Mark Anthony and Octavius met and defeated the armies of Julius Caesar’s assassins in 42BC. Brutas and Cassius committed suicide and the victors spent a fortune on Philippi, granting it the status of Roman Colony, providing us with the impressive ruins, and artefacts which are now in the museum. In 49 AD Saint Paul came to preach to the inhabitants of Philippi and ended up in prison. Despite Paul’s misfortune Phillipi was the first European city to accept Christianity, though the first two churches they built suffered some bad luck. The first was destroyed by an earthquake right after it was completed in the 5th century and the second collapsed before its dedication in the 6th Century because it was too top heavy. The remains can both be seen, as well as the ancient theatre built by Phillip II.

Matt Barrett is a travel writer who specializes in Greece. His Greece Travel Guides at www.greecetravel.com are considered among the best on the internet with enthralling photos and entertaining writing while at the same time being very informative. He also answers questions about Greece by e-mail at matt@greecetravel.com


The Ingenuity of Mexican Mechanics by Ron McCluskey

It is easy to make the mistake of thinking that those who live in what we would consider a hut are lazy and stupid. Fortunately, that is often far from the truth. In fact, they are often very resourceful.

My first experience with the ingenuity of Mexicans was during our year of volunteer work in Villahermosa in the state of Tabasco. We were driving a Chevy Nova and it was usually pretty reliable for us. However, Mexican gas disagreed with it and I soon had some trouble with the carburettor.

A friend of mine who worked in the hospital laboratory took me to a nearby repair shop and helped me get a mechanic to help me out. He followed us back to the hospital and pulled the carburettor out of my car. He then headed back to his shop.

Having heard that it was best to keep a close eye on anyone working on your car, I followed him. Over the next half hour, I watched him completely disassemble the carburettor, clean it with solvent, hand make new gaskets and put it back in my car. The car then ran like new.

So, within a half hour, I had a rebuilt carburettor back in my car. I was pretty impressed. I was even more impressed when he said, “Sorry it took so long, but I have never worked on a Chevrolet before.”

A professor from one of the Universities in Texas had a similar experience. He taught Mexican archaeology and often toured remote areas in a jeep. We met him when we were camped on the beach on one of our trips to Tulum.

He told us that one time he was travelling up in the mountains in a remote area north of Mexico City. The road was pretty rough and he hit a rock. The rock totally destroyed his oil pan. Without the oil pan, the jeep was useless and he could go nowhere.

After waiting about 4 hours a farmer came by with a mule and was able to pull the jeep into a town a few miles away.

Now every little town in Mexico has a small mechanic shop that is a combination repair, tire retread and blacksmith shop. He went over there and explained his problem. After asking if the shop owner could order him a new oil pan and install it, the mechanic replied, “Sure, no problem. It should be here within a couple of months.”

He questioned the mechanic if there was any other solution. The Mexican replied, “Come back in three days.”

So, the professor found a lady that would put him up for a few nights. He then got a chair in the yard and watched what the mechanic did. He watched with interest as the owner went to each house in the village and collected any scrap metal or tin cans that they had.

The mechanic then went back to his shop and started working the metal. Over the next few days, he melted the metal down and poured it out forming a sheet of metal. He then pounded it and cut it into the proper shape, made a gasket and fitted it onto the bottom of the jeep.

The professor then told me that he drove the jeep on many trips after that and the handmade oil pan never leaked a drop!

As you can imagine, I have the highest regard for these underrated Mexican mechanics. While caution is always in order dealing with anyone working on your car, you should be able to find someone with excellent skills to work on any vehicle that has problems while driving in Mexico.

About the author: Ron McCluskey and his wife Larose are both physicians. Between the two of them they have done volunteer medical work on all continents except Antarctica. Because caring for people’s physical needs opens up singular opportunities, they have been able to travel where most others could not. You may find more of their travel experiences at http://ilovetravelvacations.com