CultureShock! A Survival Guide to Customs and Etiquette…

CultureShock! is an essential range of guides for those travellers looking to truly understand the countries they are visiting, as well as for expatriates settling into a new assignment in a foreign land. Covering over 80 countries and cities each title explains the customs, traditions, social and business etiquette in a lively and informative style. The books have a friendly and honest writing style and are full of personal experiences, practical advice and useful information.

CultureShock! authors, all of whom have experienced the joys and pitfalls of cultural adaptation, are ideally placed to provide warm and informative advice to those who seek to integrate seamlessly into diverse cultures. Now a TV series! Taking the iconic series into the next level, CultureShock! is now a TV series programme airing on Channel News Asia (CNA).

Here’s some tips on customs and etiquette from CultureShock!:

CultureShock! Thailand provides a valuable crash course on the who’s who, and the what’s and how’s of the country, guiding readers through a wide range of topics for day-to-day living including how to interact with the local people and fit into Thai society. Full of humour and practical tips, a must-read for those intending to stay for any length of time in the Land of Smiles.

Do’s

• Do use a person’s first name, not the family name. Adults should be addressed as Khun unless a title is used.
• Do learn when, who and how to wai ( the Thai greeting which consists of a slight bow, with palms pressed together in a prayer-like fashion)
• Do treat royalty with the greatest respect. Do stand up when images of the king or royal family appear on the cinema screen.

Don’ts

• Don’t point your feet at anybody. Don’t step over anybody or anybody’s food
• Don’t touch hair and heads. If you do so by accident, excuse yourself.
• Don’t be surprised if your laundry is done by a man and he refuses to wash a woman’s underclothes.

CultureShock! United Arab Emirates orientates you into a country that is moving forward at a breathtaking pace unlike any other. The thriving economy attracts a large and diverse expatriate workforce, while luxurious hotels, spectacular skyscrapers and top-class shopping places continue to draw tourists from all corners of the globe. Beneath this cosmopolitan surface though is a culture deeply rooted in Arabic tradition and tribal values that continue to exist till this day.

Do’s

• Respect the local laws, culture and Muslim sensibilities of the UAE
• Shake hands with a person of the same gender as you. Men should allow an Emirati or Arab woman to decide if she will shake hands. Western women should err on the side of caution and not extend a hand to an Emirati man unless he extends his hand first.
• In business, schedule your appointments for the morning if possible and always carry business cards with English on one and Arabic on the other side of the card.

Don’ts

• Don’t wear a veil or the traditional dress if you are a non-Muslim woman
• Don’t discuss your humble origins; you will only embarrass yourself. Don’t boast of your achievements either. Fortune and unearned wealth are more greatly admired. Wait for them to ask.
• Don’t conduct business on Friday

CultureShock! Czech Republic allows readers to discover the rich history behind the country, from the Hapsburg era to the effect of Communism. Gain an insight into the local characteristics from the Czech love of nature to their musical inclination to their magical folklore.

Do’s

• Be modest. Czechs appreciate modesty and humility in a person. Arrogance, aggression and ostentation are frowned upon. Observe and recognise behavioural patterns, and try to align with them as much as possible.
• Try to recognise Czech sarcasm and dry humour. Czechs are good at making jokes out of virtually any situation. Try not to take yourself too seriously, and don’t take commentary too personally.
• Always toast your friends before taking the first swallow of the evening, and always look into your companion’s eyes when doing so. This is part of the ritual of drinking.

Don’ts

• When in somebody’s home, don’t talk too much about business and politics. Social situations are to be reserved for social matters, and there is a strong divide between work and play in the Czech Republic.
• Don’t be picky when in a pub or restaurant. Special requests are rare, so don’t, for example try to order a vegetarian version of a fish dish.
• In any business or social situation, don’t try to impose your cultural values or business principles upon your Czech friends or business associates. Instead, observe and demonstrate humility, but without pandering or flattery.

CultureShock! Beijing offers an insight into life within the Chinese capital. Home to more than 100,000 foreigners, it is no surprise that the city has been spawning modern buildings to accommodate the increasing economic activity. Ironically, many Beijingers still do not have running water in their homes and most of them are not able to afford the imported goods on sale at the new shopping malls. Nevertheless, the people of Beijing boast a rich culture which has been preserved through a long line of dynasties.

Do’s

• Do make an effort to learn and practise speaking Mandarin. You can improve only if you try.
• Do remember the concept of “face”. Learn how to give others face
• Do prepare business cards in simplified Chinese characters and keep plenty of them with you at all times.

Don’ts

• Don’t make fun of or criticise Chinese people and their customs
• Don’t wear clothing that is overly garish or revealing

Don’t drink tap water, eat uncooked vegetables or take other unnecessary health risks.

Hello all,

Well IÂ’m back from South America after a number of adventures that seemed to be crammed into three very small weeks ! Hopefully at a later date I will get to you more about the experiences we enjoyed and the friendliness that seemed ever present in both Argentina & Chile. In the meantime I have memories of fantastic mountains, wide open horizons, friendly people and great food to savour as I attempt to return to London life.

Whilst IÂ’ve been away the club, its members and the eNewsletterÂ’s many readers have been very busy:-

· we’ve had two monthly meetings at the London branch where four very strong & very different speakers entertained busy crowds

· Dan Bachmann has set up a Globetrotters Club members’ only group at www.flickr.com and is looking to launch a little friendly photographic competition. Get in touch if you would like more details !!

· Gavin Fernandes has had his entry judged at Wanderlust Photo of the year 2008 competition at the Destination Shows 2009 in London & Birmingham and made the short list on the Wildlife Section

· Charles Egan has launched his first novel on the reading world – The Killing Snows is set against the backdrop of the Irish famine in the 1840s. If you are interested in reviewing a copy & having your feedback published, feel free to get in touch with me ?

ThatÂ’s all for nowÂ…enjoy the start of spring and any Easter break you maybe planning,

The Ant

theant@globetrotters.co.uk

AMAR GROVER – A Journey Through Southern Morocco

The first speaker of FebruaryÂ’s meeting was Amar Grover. Amar is a London-based travel writer and photographer. He first took us across the High Atlas mountains south of Marrakech, reminding us that even in the late 19^th century Morocco was said to be as unknown as Tibet. At this time, some of the High Atlas passes were controlled by the Glaoui clan, one of whom was eventually appointed Pasha of Marrakech. At independence in 1956, the despised Glaoui family lost all power but their crumbling kasbah, or palace, at Telouet remains open to the public. Sadly, it is gradually decaying, so go soon! We then travelled down via the GlaouiÂ’s ancient salt mines and through the Ounila Valley to Tamdacht village whose Glaoui kasbah is still occupied by former staff (slaves) of the Glaoui. The Ounila Valley is a two-day walk or a dayÂ’s 4WD drive mostly along riverside ledges with wonderful views of the bare mountains, several villages and their lush oases of almond and olive trees. The UNESCO-listed kasbahs of Ait Benhaddou Â- a popular film location (think Gladiator, Jesus of Nazareth) Â- was the next stop before we cut across into the Anti-Atlas range towards Tafraoute to see some of its Berber fortress granaries honeycombed with courtyards and small chambers. Traditionally they provided individual storage facilities for families to guard against famine, and even provided refuge in times of strife. Few remain intact, and the best-preserved are still locked and looked after by a guardian. However, donÂ’t let that put you off – for a small fee, you can often enter these fascinating structures.

For more information and to view some of AmarÂ’s stunning photographs visit his website at www.pictographical.co.uk. The forthcoming edition of Travel Africa Magazine (www.travelafricamag.com) will contain a feature by Amar on the Glaoui.

PETER OVERTON Biosearch Expeditions to Malawi

Our second speaker was Peter Overton. Peter described his experiences of camping and trekking on the steep escarpments and high plateau of the Nyika National Park. The park extends over 3134 km2 and is part of MalawiÂ’s largest and most remote National Park. It is an area that is so inaccessible it is void of all tourists, so you really can get away fro it all! Peter is the Project Director Biosearch Expeditions. He first explored this region in 1972 as part of the Wye College Nyika expedition and loved it so much that he wanted to find a way to go back there each year and, at the same time, to support this special region. He has now organised 14 Biosearch Expeditions to the Nyika National Park where he takes groups of volunteers to live in this wilderness for a month at a time. The research directly assists the Parks Authority with their wildlife surveys, biodiversity research and protection of the game.

The terrain is varied with low lying wet season marshland at around 1000 m to over 2600m at the highest point. Guest trek and track wildlife with the support of game scouts; learning and sharing their skills. Everyone gets expedition training prior to departure and you become Â’part of the familyÂ’ when you return. This involves Peter opening up his farm in Lincolnshire once or twice a year for reunions, speaker events and camping weekends. Globetrotters may like to get a flavour for the expeditions by joining the next training weekend on 2^nd-4^th May in preparation for this yearÂ’s expedition, starting on 26^th July. Please get in touch with him if you are interested – http://www.biosearch.org.uk/index.htm

With Tracey Murray at the lectern we had two excellent speakers to entertain London on a sunny, spring afternoon:-

First up was the returning Jonathan Kaplan who spoke about his Travels in Eritrea, through an adventure entitled “A wedding and two wars on the Red Sea. “.

The second speaker was Peter Gostelow who spoke about his Long Bike Ride Home. In the summer of 2005 Peter left Japan, where heÂ’d been teaching English for two years, and began travelling home, by bicycle. This solo and unsupported journey lasted 3 years and took him through 30 countries, covering a total distance of over 30,000 miles. For more information see his trip journal at www.gostelow.crazyguyonabike.com or his web site at http://www.petergostelow.com.

For details of the forth coming meetings of the London branch, December 2008 through to July 2009 – http://www.globetrotters.co.uk/meetings/lon09it1.html.

London meetings are held at The Church of Scotland, Crown Court, behind the Fortune Theatre in Covent Garden at 2.30pm the first Saturday of each month, unless there is a UK public holiday that weekend. There is no London meeting in August, but we start afresh in September. For more information, contact the Globetrotters Info line on +44 (0) 20 8674 6229, or visit the website: www.globetrotters.co.uk.

For information on Ontario meetings, please contact Svatka Hermanek: shermanek@schulich.yorku.ca or Bruce Weber: tel. 416-203-0911 or Paul Webb: tel. 416-694-8259.

Ontario meetings are held on the third Friday of January, March, May, September and November. Usually at the Woodsworth Co-op, Penthouse, 133, Wilton Street in downtown Toronto at 8.00 p.m.

Super knowledgeable GT member Tracey highlights some of the rule changes for entry to the USA, that have been put in place in 2009. Remember this is a summary and you should always remember to verify any visa requirements before travelling.

On Monday 12th January 2009 it became compulsory for travellers who qualify to enter the USA visa free under the Visa Waiver Program to register on ESTA and complete the ESTA [electronic system for travel authorisation] form at least 72 hours prior departure to the U.S.

For further information see – http://www.usembassy.org.uk/cons_new/visa/niv/esta.html

What is ESTA ?

ESTA is a new, fully automated, electronic system for screening passengers before they begin travel to the United States under the Visa Waiver Program. ESTA replaces the current system of travellers filling out an I-94W form during their flight (or ship voyage) to the U.S and collects the same information.

ESTA authorization is not a guarantee of entry into the United States; it means that the traveller is allowed to board a plane or ship travelling to the U.S. without a visa. Once you arrive in the U.S, then Customs and Border Protection officers will determine entry.

How do I apply ?

At least 72 hours prior to departure to the U.S, travellers must access the ESTA website at: https://esta.cbp.dhs.gov. Use of the site is free; and it is available in 16 languages, although all application responses must be in English.

When do I need to apply ?

VISA Waiver Program travellers are encouraged to apply for authorisation as soon as they begin to plan a trip to the U.S. The latest you can apply is 72 hours before departure.

Once I have submitted the ESTA form, what will happen ?

Once the application has been successfully submitted via the ESTA website, then in most cases the application status will be returned immediately. You should expect to see 1 of 3 responses;

1. Authorization Approved = Travel is authorized

2. Travel Not Authorized = Traveller will be referred to www.travel.state.gov for information on how to apply for a visa to travel to the U.S.

3. Authorization Pending = A final response will be issued within 72 hours; the traveller must check back on the ESTA website.

Do I need to complete the ESTA form on a per trip basis ?

Once approved, authorisation can be used for multiple entries into the U.S. However, if the traveller’s name, gender, citizenship or answers to the questions “yes” or “no” change; a new application must be submitted.

Applicants can update their destination addresses or itineraries should they change after their ESTA has been approved, although this is not required

The ESTA authorisation is generally valid for 2 years or until your passport has expired, whichever comes first.

As a summary, it generally affects people who are nationals of the below 34 countries:-

Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Republic of Korea, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Monaco, Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and United Kingdom

Regular contributor Mac this time interviews the Beetle via an email loaded with interesting travel questions. What do you think – are the Q&A something we should see more of in future editions of the eNewsletter ?

The Ant

Who am I ?

A Chartered Accountant, or CPA in American terms. I used to have my own consultancy business specialising in strategy, business turnaround and performance improvement. I’ve been lucky enough to live and work all around the world – earn money then spend it by travelling. I am now a cheese maker in the North Yorkshire Dales trying very hard to turn around my uncle’s business and make mostly goat’s cheese.

1. What countries did you visit and what time frame ?

About 100 over around a 20 year timeframe. Since Nov 2006, with the exception of Cuba I haven’t been anywhere because of my cheese business and any spare funds are going in to doing my house up which is a statement to the 1970s!

2. Which countries were you the most glad you saw ?

Papua New Guinea, Burma, Bali, Bolivia, Peru, Argentina, Chile, Venezuela, Bosnia, Tonga and I love Miami where I lived for a year 1999 – 2000. Borneo, though it comprises three countries, I lived in Brunei and was lucky to have time to travel around and do some fabulous diving. The north of Pakistan was a real eye opener, so beautiful, incredibly friendly people, I’d like to go back.

3. Which sights did you enjoy seeing most ?

So difficult to answer, there have been many. The walk from Grand Baie to Pereybere in Mauritius. The scenery of Camiguin, Philippines; the coral reefs around Papua new Guinea. South America is my favourite continent ever, I took 9 months out and backpacked around by myself, and had just the best experience ever. The temples of Bagan in Burma and travelling around Burma generally. I love Bangkok having lived there a short while, a great city to live in. I like the main square in Marrakech, always so vibrant and full of life and wonders. The Khyber Pass because it was a hell of an experience getting there.

4. Which waterfall did you enjoy most ?

In Venezuela, lots of little ones. The Angel Falls in Brazil/Argentina, though were disappointing. There are some lovely ones in the Kakadu Nat Park and around St Katherine’s Gorge.

5. Which country was the most different than your preconceived idea ?

Brunei – a mixture of opulence and third world. Burma made beautiful by the people. The Hawaiian Islands with the exception of Molokai and Kauaii were so commercialised and expensive. But Bora Bora was the biggest disappointment – a huge rubbish tip in the middle, in fact I would not give Tahiti a second thought now that I have been there, Papete the capital is not so nice either.

6. Which game parks did you like most ?

Berenty in Madagascar – a national park not game park. For game park, then without doubt, the Massai Mara in Kenya.

7. Which countries would you like to revisit ?

New Caledonia though a department of France. The north of Pakistan, it is so beautiful. Madagascar. I’d love to go back to Peru, Bolivia, Chile and Argentina. Vanuatu to dive again, fantastic and if we are talking about diving, then definitely Papua New Guinea again for diving.

8 In which country were the people the most friendly ?

Burma and Bali without a doubt and New Zealand too.

9 Which least friendly and helpful ?

China, Hawaiian Islands, India

10 Which country would you not particularly like to revisit ?

China and India

11 Which country the easiest to visit ?

Most are pretty easy

12 Which countries the best bargains and cheapest ?

US, Bangkok, Singapore

13 Which airlines did you like the best and which the least ?

Not keen on any but would avoid any American based airlines if I could.

14 What travel items you took with you used the most and were most glad you took ?

Lonely Planet and a laptop

15 Which travel guide books did you take and which did you like best ?

Lonely Planet, don’t like Rough Guides

16 Were you ever uneasy on your trip ?

Yes, in Zanzibar, also held up at machete point twice in Mozambique. The capital of Madagascar, Antananarivo can be scary and Port Moresby is horrendous. I lived in Karachi for a year and I got used to it but would not recommend it. Felt uneasy in Kandy too. I didn’t like parts of Lima but otherwise, did not have one bad experience of south America at all, perhaps I was lucky. I would never return to Zambia, nothing but bad memories and experiences.

17 Were you ever sick on trip ?.

The last time was in Syria and Jordan where I picked up amoebic dysentery. Not a great experience, but it was a good 15 years ago. Oh, suffered horribly from altitude sickness in La Paz and in the Colca Canyon.

18 What were the prettiest places ?

So hard to say

19 What country would you like to visit, if possible ?

Namibia, Iceland, Libya and Colombia

20 What was your last trip ?

Cuba

21 What will be your next trip ?

Nothing on the horizon, working hard with the business, this is an important year to us, a bit of a make or break year so limited time and funds. Maybe a long weekend in Lisbon as my father lives there, for his 71st birthday.

Hello all,

We’re well into the New Year and its time for many people to consider past, present & future plans. In this edition we have club member Gavin Fernandes completing his recap of his travels, Wanderlust looking for entries in their new photobook and details of the Destinations Show in London & Birmingham, including a discount ticket offer for Globetrotters Club members.

Perhaps you guys have got some more trips and adventures I can use in future editions…keep sending them in, as you have been doing very nicely lately.

To continue theme I’ve also listed a few requests for help, a small number of web sites to help you mull your travel ideas over and Mac chips in with a little help from The Beetle.

That’s all for now…enjoy yourselves as I head back to South America for much of February. There will be adventures to tell you about when I return…

The Ant

theant@globetrotters.co.uk

With a last minute guest but a welcome return appearance by Dick Curtis at the lectern…

The January London meeting format was 4 shorter talks rather than the usual 2 longer ones. Our first speaker was Tessa Mills, who spoke about Gap Years for grown ups. Tessa was on the point of buying a house but suddenly decided to buy a round the world ticket and have some fun, wouldn’t we all like to be able to do that! She headed first to a chilly Vancouver before heading across the Pacific to the warmer climes of Australia and Cambodia’s stunning Angkor Wat. In Vietnam Tessa did a cookery course in Hoi An, via Thailand to India to see the Taj Mahal and Rajastan, before landing in Vienna on her way home.

Our second speaker was Barbara Brooks, who also was lucky enough to take a year out. Although she again travelled RTW, her main goal was to reach Easter Island (AKA Rapa Nui), a place that has captivated Barbara’s imagination since childhood. To get there she went via Polynesia, though going via Santiago in Chile is the other option. She told us that Easter Island is a volcanic island, it has 3 volcanoes, is largely barren of trees, because these were used to transport the giant Moai carved figures that the island is famous for. We saw lots of pictures of the Moai looking out to sea and also ones that were still being carved. The island hosts around 1000 tourists at a time. Barbara recommended that anyone going should visit the Museum first to get an understanding of the island and Moai.

After the break Neil Harris took us to Taiwan. To enter Taiwan you don’t need a Visa (UK Nationals), but although Neil had pre booked his hotel finding it was another matter as Taiwan is lacking in English tourist information, luckily he had the name of his hotel in Mandarin, so eventually found his bed in Taipei. Taipei does have a metro system for getting around with signs in English so Neil was able to explore the city, taking in the SunYat Sen Temple, The Imperial Treasures and of course his reason for going to see what was at the time the world’s tallest building, 101 building. On a quirkier note Neil also showed us “The Bog Tea shop” and the “Iffy Coffee” shop!

Our last speaker was Gavin Fernandes, entitled Chinese Press gang. Gavin spent a year in China studying photo journalism. During this time he was invited to take part in an exercise to help promote tourism, by being taken to Hubei province to photograph tourist sights, local factories and the people. In return for free travel, accommodation and food, plus matching yellow t-shirt and photographers jacket, he had to give the organisers 150 of his photos to be used in their publicity. Gavin photographed such delights as a 2000 year old tree, photogenic toddlers as well as being taken to photograph more mundane subjects like a car factory. While the western press pack were snapping away, they themselves were being snapped by local Chinese press. Some of Gavin’s work was used in local papers as well as publicity material including a great photo of a warrior monk in the Shao Lin temple.

As is customary after the January meeting we then enjoyed our New Year’s Party, which as usual was well catered for with members bringing contributions, but also thanks to Jacqui Trotter who once again spent the afternoon underneath the hall in the kitchen producing lovely hot food. Happy New Year

By Padmassana

For details of the forth coming meetings of the London branch, December 2008 through to July 2009 – http://www.globetrotters.co.uk/meetings/lon09it1.html.

London meetings are held at The Church of Scotland, Crown Court, behind the Fortune Theatre in Covent Garden at 2.30pm the first Saturday of each month, unless there is a UK public holiday that weekend. There is no London meeting in August, but we start afresh in September. For more information, contact the Globetrotters Info line on +44 (0) 20 8674 6229, or visit the website: www.globetrotters.co.uk.

For information on Ontario meetings, please contact Svatka Hermanek: shermanek@schulich.yorku.ca or Bruce Weber: tel. 416-203-0911 or Paul Webb: tel. 416-694-8259.

Ontario meetings are held on the third Friday of January, March, May, September and November. Usually at the Woodsworth Co-op, Penthouse, 133, Wilton Street in downtown Toronto at 8.00 p.m.

So, in the last issue I was telling you about a round the world trip that lasted nearly two years which began with an MA in China and continued in Canada and Latin America… cheap flights dictated a start in the Yucatan and a journey south to the jungle at Palenque. Then it was up to the highlands of San Cristobal before crossing into Guatemala and heading deeper into the Mayan world. We spent a month in the country which saw us journey out to the jungle to watch the sun rise over the temples of Tikal, hike up the lava flows of an active volcano, and bask on black sand beaches of the Pacific coast. Then it was back into Mexico and up to the capital via the markets of Oaxaca, the cliff divers of Acapulco and the prawns of Puerto Vallarta. I stayed in Mexico for the Independence Day celebrations on Sept 16th before heading back to Montréal.

Figure 1 Picture courtesy Gavin Fernandes : ‘backpage’ was one I included in my talk at the Globetrotter club members’ slides afternoon, of me being featured in the local press while shooting for China Foto Press in 2007

What particular moment will you remember most about your travels & why?

It’s impossible to pick one moment from nearly two years away; there were many memorable moments from a year spent living and studying in China and travelling in Vietnam as well as some unforgettable times spent in Canada. More than three months in Latin America yielded its fair share of travellers’ tales too.

Re your photography – is there one shot you’ve taken that makes you think yep that’s the one…that’s why I went travelling?

Well, actually there could be a few… I’ve entered a few in various travel photography competitions – so let’s see if any make the shortlists…

What single piece of advice would you give to anyone with a similar trip in mind? Something that could make all the difference to enjoying or not what they may experience…

I could reel off a few clichés here – keep an open mind, take it as it comes, play it by ear, expect the unexpected – but it’s the way I’ve always travelled – not planning too hard or thinking too far ahead but being ready to make the best of an unwelcome situation should one arise. That’s when the adventures happen!

Do you still have an appetite for travel and where might you possibly head to next?

I haven’t yet lost that desire to see what’s round the next corner and discover something new. But I’ve slowed down a lot since the days of dashing around Europe or across 18 countries in 4 months. I prefer to settle in a place nowadays and absorb more of the culture than was possible when just passing through. I’d quite like to live and work in a new country earning money as a photographer and planning future travel projects.

You’re back in London after nearly two years away – how come and what next?

Well the funds diminished somewhat after a year as a student and a summer in central America. The lack of any foreign work permit meant they couldn’t be easily replenished and a return to Blighty became imminent. I’m currently looking for contract work, preferably related to photography while continuing to search out markets (exhibition/publication) for my latest travel imagery. I’d be happy to be based anywhere in the world – I could go back to China and build on my experiences of 2007; or try Australia and see what’s happening there; or visit the folks in India and seek out viable projects; or get a job in Africa as a photographic tour leader on the overland safari trucks. Or do I return to Montréal and the girl I left behind…?

Thank you very much Gavin – even across two articles I’m sure you’ve only managed to share a very small amount of your fantastic experiences. Welcome back to the club but happy travelling & photography in the future…The Ant

STOP PRESS 24/01/2009!! Gavin has just heard that his entry, ‘Iguanas’, in Wanderlust’s photo of the year competition has made it through to the final stage of judging and will be exhibited at Destinations 2009. The judging takes place on the Friday of the show at around 3.30pm – let’s see if Gavin wins the trip to Mexico 

Destinations – the UK’s leading holiday and travel event returns to London’s Earls Court from 5th to 8th February and Birmingham’s NEC from 27th February until 1st March 2009 for another action-packed year. The show is ideal inspiration for those aiming to beat the winter blues, offering short breaks to awe-inspiring holidays such as round the world trips and life-changing career breaks.

There are ideas for all tastes and budgets, whether travelling solo, as a couple, family or group. This is a chance to meet the experts, discover fantastic new holiday ideas, access amazing offers and experience a taster of what’s to come with fantastic sensations from global food and wine tasting to cultural acts. Winter is the time to reset the personal compass and reinvigorate the soul. There is the opportunity to rock & roll through the Deep South of the USA visiting Graceland and Chattanooga with music inspired rail journeys, meanwhile Celtic Spring cruises are the perfect post winter pick-me-up and mix of Irish hospitality with French Joie de vivre. Indulging the senses of even the seasoned European holiday maker are Spanish heartland adventures by Vespa, Bulgarian natural spas, and hidden gems at favourite destinations. Meanwhile adventure travel specialists will feed the imaginations of those addicted to adventure with ideas such as cross-country skiing in Scandinavia, wildlife expeditions in the Antarctic, and West African overland adventures to legendary Timbuktu.

In the rapidly changing world of travel, the savvy traveller is likely to be looking for security in travel. For worry-free travel destinations visitors can chat to the team at ABTA, which will be representing British travel agencies and maintaining high standards of trading practice, and ATOL the financial protection scheme for UK tour operators.

Meet the Expert Theatres

The theatre features travel personalities including; top explorers, adventurers, writers and photographers. First hand accounts from legendary journeys of adventure will captivate audiences. Speakers include the BBC’s Dan Cruickshank best known for his popular series and book Around the World in 80 Treasures and most recent series Adventures in Architecture.

Don’t miss Charley Boorman English actor and travelogue maker. On 12 April 2008, Charley Boorman started By Any Means, which has taken Boorman all around the world starting in his home town in Ireland to Sydney Australia – “by any means”. This has included using various different forms of transport, excluding air travel, accompanied only by producer, Russ Malkin, and cameraman Mungo. Also appearing at The London Show Kate Humble presenter of some of television’s best-loved wildlife and science programmes, including Springwatch, Autumn Watch, Animal Park and Rough Science will be appearing in conversation with Hilary Bradt.

NEW for 2009

Activity & Adventure – this dedicated area designed to provide the freshest and most exciting off the beaten track activity and adventure ideas is bigger than ever. Whether planning an overland trip across Africa, exploring the depths of Alaska’s glacier filled valleys, trekking in the Amazon or cycling in the Dordogne, this is a chance to meet the worlds’ leading adventure travel experts

Nomad Travel Store and Clinic – know before you go and travel safely. The mobile ambulance service will be at The Show for vaccinations advice whatever the destination. Experienced and medically trained staff will provide travel health information and advice.

Destinations Sensations Visitors can immerse themselves in engaging demonstrations, global flavours, vibrant dance and music from around the world. Taking place will be Russian vodka tasting, a Colombian dance workshop, and a chance to learn the art of the Borneo blowpipe used by the indigenous people.

World Entertainment Stage Showcasing an eclectic mix of vibrant and exciting music and dance the World Entertainment Stage will feature a diverse range of performances from Ninjas trained in the Japanese art of Ninjutsu courtesy of Japan Tourist Office to Bollywood, Brazilian Capoeira and fiery Flamenco.

Visit www.destinationsshow.co.uk again soon for more information including a full list of exhibitors visit www.destinationsshow.com.

London Show

Ticket Prices: Adult Ticket Price: £10 in advance (£12 on the door) Under 15’s go free

To book tickets visit www.destinationsshow.com or Tel: 0871 230 7141* Calls charged at national rate. Booking fee applies.

Venue: Earls Court 1, Warwick Road, London SW5 9TA Telephone: +44 (0)20 7385 1200

Opening Times: Thursday 5 February 2009 10am – 8.30pm (late night from 5pm) / Friday 6 February 2009 10am – 5.30pm / Saturday 7 February 2009 10am – 5.30pm /Sunday 8 February 2009 10am – 5.30pm

Birmingham Show

Ticket Prices: Adult Ticket Price: £8 in advance (£10 on the door) Under 15’s go free

To book tickets visit www.destinationsshow.com or Tel: 0871 230 7141* Calls charged at national rate. Booking fee applies.

Venue: NEC, Birmingham

Opening Times: Friday 27 February 2009 10am-5.00pm / Saturday 28 February 10am-5.00pm / Sunday 1 March 10am – 5.00pm

STOP PRESS 28/01/2009 !! If you club members use discount code DE3B they can purchase tickets at the rate of

£9 for London & £7 for Birmingham. They can book online at www.destinationsshow.com or via phone on 0871 230 7141. Please note

the discount is only available on tickets booked in advance – the box office closes for London 3 February and Birmingham 25 February 2009. Calls are charged at a national rate.

Hello all,

As you may have guessed this is the late November & December editions rolled into one large and end of year update to you all ! Unfortunately work commitments have got in the way of my editorial responsibilities…hopefully you can allow me a little leeway though.

So in this month’s update we have some very fine and very Globetrotter Club orientated articles – you can see that Write in (1) and Write in (3) are both written by well established members who you’ll recognise ! And for Write in (2) I’ve included some very positive feedback I received from readers of the October edition…hopefully Neil & Sandra will enjoy hearing such comments.

It’s these positive sides of travel that help to balance the awful happenings in Mumbai and to a lesser extent Thailand. The world can be a very difficult and dangerous place, however there is also a vast amount of charm & beauty that needs to be cherished. I also know that many of you are still planning trips in 2009 – keep going and bring us back some wonderful articles & happy memories.

That’s all for now…enjoy your Christmas & New Year festivities, however you chose to mark them. See you in 2009…

The Ant

theant@globetrotters.co.uk

With host Dan Bachmann at the lectern we had two quite contrasting speakers – the first being on our regulars and the second a debutant for the club ! Both were well received…

The London November meeting saw Martin Featherstone give us a great talk on India, taking in paint throwing festivals, the Jaipur elephant festival and a temple full of rats!, as well as more conventional tourist favourites such as the Taj Mahal in Agra and The Palace of the Winds in Jaipur. Martin somehow packed in places all over India on his trip f

rom Amritsar and its stunning Golden Temple, to the funeral Ghats in Varanassi, where he got into trouble for taking photos, though his favourite was the erotic sex temples at Khajuraho! At Ramthambore he tried tiger spotting, without success until a chance meeting at his hotel with a relative of the park ranger, who took him on a private tiger spotting trip, he saw a tiger in the distance.

Our second speaker was Jennifer Barclay who ended up going to South Korea because her rock drummer boyfriend got a job playing in a band at a hotel in Seoul. While he rocked, Jennifer got to explore a country not on many peoples tourist itineraries. She found it a bit Seoul destroying (get it!) to begin with, as nobody wanted to talk to her, but as she got outside the city taking in the national parks and visiting the many temples, she got to meet “Mr Kim”. Kim being by far the most common name in Korea. At Pusan the locals introduced her to the delights of fish restaurants and the drinking customs that only end up one way! Jennifer has also become a fan of Korea’s national dish Kimchi, which is slightly more palatable than Dog, one of their others and easier to serve to her friends back home ! On her return Jennifer wrote her book, Meeting Mr Kim: Or How I Went to Korea and Learned to Love Kimchi, which you can buy on amazon here

For details of the forth coming meetings of the London branch, December 2008 through to July 2009 – http://www.globetrotters.co.uk/meetings/lon09it1.html.

London meetings are held at The Church of Scotland, Crown Court, behind the Fortune Theatre in Covent Garden at 2.30pm the first Saturday of each month, unless there is a UK public holiday that weekend. There is no London meeting in August, but we start afresh in September. For more information, contact the Globetrotters Info line on +44 (0) 20 8674 6229, or visit the website: www.globetrotters.co.uk.

With host Jacqui Trotter at the lectern we had two excellent speakers return to the club – both were engaging through quite different viewpoints on their most recent travels…

Globies were delighted to welcome back Juliet Coombe, whose talk “Around the Fort in 80 Lives”, described the people who live in Galle Fort in Sri Lanka, and where Juliet now calls home. Juliet’s talk based on her book of the same title took us behind the usual tourist landscapes of Lighthouses, Mosques and Markets, to the local inhabitants, many of whom can trace back their ancestry for 9 generations in the Fort area. Juliet showed us the Tuk Tuk driver who doubles up as an ambulance, having had 4 babies delivered in the back seat. A Fortune Hunter in who dives in the sea hoping for the “big one” then works as a security guard. Juliet also explained some of the traditions associated with living in Galle Fort, such as the rituals involved in moving in, that include lighting a fire on the tiles in the middle of your kitchen and sacrificing a scrawny chicken. When her baby contracted chicken pox she was amazed when locals covered him in green leaves from the fort walls, but to her amazement the chicken pox abated. Also divorce is not allowed, with the local Imam telling Juliet to come and find him if her husband strayed and her husband would be stoned! Before Juliet published the book she took over a warehouse as part of a literary festival and exhibited pages and photos from the upcoming book, the people could then see her intentions and ended up coming up with even more interesting recollections leading to new sections being added to the contents.

To find out more about Juliet and the Galle Literature Festival in 2008 – http://www.gallearttrail.com/participant.php

After Jacqui Trotter’s home made Christmas cake had been demolished by those present during the tea interval, our second speaker was John Gimlette whose talk “Panther soup, detailed a European journey in war and peace”. A chance meeting in London with WW2 American veteran Putnam Flint lead John on a journey with Putnam as a guide following the American army’s advance through France, Germany and into Austria. John was able to get the exact route from wartime records of Flint’s journey from US records where every shell fired had been documented. Their journey began in the French Port of Marseille, in The Victory Hotel’s basement which still has paintings that were done by allied airmen while being hidden by the resistance. John and Putnam continued into the Vosges mountains and Alsace where even today you can find plenty of scrap from the battles laying around in the woods. Over the border into Germany via Heilbronn to Ulm, and Ulm’s cathedral is the world’s tallest with its 161m Steeple. Their journey continued through Bavaria, via Neuschwanstein and Linderhof Castles and into Austria to Innsbruck and Oberhofen, which has not changed much in 60 years. The trip was cathartic for Putnam giving him a kind of closure and enlightening for his family who have read John’s book and now know about a period of Putnam’s life that he never talked about, despite having plenty of souvenirs in his house.

To find out more about John and his travels – http://www.johngimlette.com/

For information on Ontario meetings, please contact Svatka Hermanek: shermanek@schulich.yorku.ca or Bruce Weber: tel. 416-203-0911 or Paul Webb: tel. 416-694-8259.

Ontario meetings are held on the third Friday of January, March, May, September and November. Usually at the Woodsworth Co-op, Penthouse, 133, Wilton Street in downtown Toronto at 8.00 p.m.

The Ant tracked down his illustrious predecessor for a catch up on where her travels had taken her, since stepping down from editing this eNewsletter. The results aren’t necessarily what the readers might expect but as ever with the Beetle, its been adventure !

If you’d asked me two years ago what I’d think of running a cheese business and making cheese in a very rural location in the north of England, I would have laughed heartily, but that, in a nutshell, is exactly what has happened to your once globetrotting friend, the Beetle.

Two years ago, the Beetle was living and working in Brunei, then Bangkok and Singapore. Prior to that, for almost twenty years she has lived and worked in four continents, some glamorous places, but mostly not, and working hard. It was a very transient lifestyle, working hard, playing hard, diving hard, but always change: different place, different job, different people, different language, different cultures – always a different situation and embracing a great deal of change and cultural diversity.

In October 2006, she came back to her Beetle nest in London to organise a complete move to Dubai. A flat share had been organised, friends of friends were e-mailed, dates for coffee set up and the Beetle was looking a forward to life in the United Arab Emirates, job hunting, making new friends and embracing another new culture and all that that entails.

Well, a funny thing happened on the way to Dubai. The Beetle’s uncle, Goaty, called her and asked if she could stop by North Yorkshire to help him value his cheese business as he was looking to sell it as a result of ill health. The Beetle said ‘sure, but I’m on my way to Dubai, I’ll push the flight back by three days, will three days be enough?’ Goaty said yes, three days would be ample and promised to fill the Beetle’s luggage with Goaty cheese. Who could resist!

Sadly, by the time the Beetle landed in North Yorkshire, a beautiful part of England (when the sun shines) Goaty was in hospital and he died ten days later. The Beetle was asked to run the ailing cheese business in the interim and so she did. The three days will be two years come November 2008.

The Beetle is now the proud owner of a cheese business, specialising in goat and ewe’s cheese and a ramshackle old farm house that dates from 1660, three acres of wilderness and a field full of rampaging and mostly evil sheep and enough rabbits to make rabbit casserole to the moon and back.

Who would have thought! For the first time in her Beetly existence the Beetle has a real home, not a transient crash pad or a six month let in a foreign land or a snatched few days here and there, this is long term, which for months was quite a scary proposition. The responsibility of owning a house, keeping the fields and garden under control (an inevitable losing battle), the incredibly rural location, the work the Beetle nest that is a cold bleak house needs to bring it in to the 21^st century….

A similar difficulty the Beetle encountered was the feeling of being anchored to a place because of her cheese business which has become the focal point of her existence over the past two years. We are talking about a rural community of about 200 people and 10,000 sheep, no local shop to wander down and buy a paper and a litre of milk, no bookshops, no theatre, cinema, no meaningful public transport and the first time in over fifteen years the Beetle had to have a car. This has taken quite a lot to get used to, however, the Beetle is nothing but flexible and relishes a challenge.

There are of course ups and downs in any situation, but it is a situation entirely of Beetle making. Her Beetle nest seems to be falling down at each of its four corners. Each upstairs room sags ominously. There is no mains water or sewerage. Water comes from a bore hole under the ground outside the kitchen. Sewerage is occasionally successfully piped into a septic tank at the bottom of the wilderness. When the electricity cuts out which it does about 6 times a year, then you can’t flush the toilet because the pump to get water out of the ground won’t work. Telephone lines go down regularly at each hurricane like gale, and there are many. When it snows, you can’t get a car up the drive. Once the Beetle had to ask a neighbouring farmer to pull her out with his tractor – oh the ignominy – and such a change from leaves on the track in other parts of the country or commuting by over crowded tube in London. The postman won’t deliver mail because he says it is too far out and inconvenient. Such is rural life.

A rash bit of DIY involving dismantling a fireplace downstairs almost culminated in the upstairs bedroom crashing through the ceiling. Ok, ok, the Beetle admits, DIY is not her forte, but she simply cannot afford to get builders in! Finding a good plumber or electrician or builder even here in the sticks is just as difficult as in London. You get put on a waiting list. The Beetle has been waiting for over a year now for a plumber to put in a shower. Her impatience has mellowed as things just don’t happen quickly here.

Things most people take for granted, such as broadband are not available because the Beetle nest is too far away from the exchange so is reliant on a rural community internet service, often uncharitably referred to as Drivelnet. Suffice to say, it is not reliable which is partly why the Beetle (with regret) relinquished editorship of the Globetrotter’s e-newsletter.

On the plus side, hordes of pheasants gather each morning at their and the Beetle’s breakfast time to eat cheese off cuts garnered from work, building up to a gaggle of around thirty when it gets really cold. They become very tame and have names like Bent Feather, Chequer Neck, Fat Pheasant, Timid Pheasant and so on. The garden has signs in rabbit welcoming all rabbits to make burrows and breed as freely as they like. As a result, despite the cold and windy individual eco-system that exists, all attempts to grow vegetables or flowers are thwarted at every turn. The Beetle bought plastic greenhouses on e-bay to grow courgettes and beetroot and attempts to devise new ingenious ways to stop the rabbits from getting inside. They don’t work.

There’s a pair of woodpeckers that live in the wilderness, and a buzzard who has a bachelor pad in the big tree, hedgehogs scuttle galore. Driving to work dancing stoats are a regular sight at certain times of the year. The Beetle has learned how to light a hearty fire with wood and coal in five minutes, cook in the dark when the power is cut off. Gas is bottled and lives undecorously in large orange canisters outside. She can use a chain saw dangerously to chop up logs. She feeds her neighbour’s sheep who graze in the Beetle’s wilderness to keep the grass down. This sounds very Bo Beepish, but in reality should involve the payment of danger money.

Sheep are nothing like as stupid as they are portrayed, in fact, they are really quite cunning. To call sheep, you shout Ho, Ho, Ho, like a rural version of Father Christmas. Then watch out because they will run en masse towards and at you. As they get used to you, they become quite fearless and will head butt you behind the knees causing you to follow over in pain and surprise and they get to gobble up all the sheep nuts your tasty sack contains. Yes, they will attempt to eat the sack as well. The Beetle got wise to this and started to take a stick to protect herself from marauding sheep, but still they got the better of her. The next incident involved being head butted on the bottom which is far too embarrassing to go into details about. The irony of such a life-change!

The other reason the Beetle stepped down from editing the Globetrotter eNewsletter is because the cheese business is a seven day a week commitment; there is so much to do to turn this thirty year old business around and bring it back to its former glory; the Beetle has many plans. There were three people working in the cheese business but in early July, Mac, the Beetle’s great friend and colleague died leaving a large and unhappy gap in the business. There is now the Beetle and Eddie the Steady. The cheese industry is an exceedingly skuldugerous one, but it is something that the Beetle enjoys and has learned much. The business recently moved into larger premises, which was very stressful and by the time you read this, the Beetle will be a cheese maker, making goat’s cheese every three days. Just have to make sure that she does not fall into the cheese vat and become Beetlecheese.

To be continued…..

The Beetle’s cheese (Ribblesdale organic Sheep cheese) can be investigated further here.

Lets pick up your story after your photography course in China and leaving SE Asia…

Well actually there are a few travel stories to tell from the year of the course… I made three trips to Vietnam – spent a month each time shooting two separate projects – one a railway travelogue, the other on the minority tribes of the northern hills which was to become a printed book submitted at the end of my MA.

I was also part of an all expenses paid trip with China Photo Press – a fortnight getting driven across two provinces with a pack of professional lensmen from around the world shooting promotional imagery for local tourist departments and meeting, eating and drinking with top-ranking government officials… A real insight into Chinese business culture!

Where did you head to next & what was your motivation ?

As the end of the course approached and many of my classmates made plans to return to the UK for Christmas, I felt in no rush to remind myself of a London winter… My first thoughts had been to head for my ancestral homeland of Goa and be eating king prawns on a sandy beach at least a week before Big Ben heralded in 2008 a few thousand miles west.

But then my Canadian cousin announced his engagement; the ensuing wedding was to take place in Cuba in mid December. Sadly I was unable to make it as we were in ‘finals’ mode on the MA – photos to edit, book to print, dissertation to hack out…but…I could meet the wedding party as they returned to Canada on Christmas eve in time for a reception in Calgary and other seasonal festivities…

BTW – did you pass your course and how are your Chinese language skills nowadays ?

Yes! I now have an MA in Documentary, Travel Photography and International Photojournalism.

My Chinese language skills didn’t get too far beyond beginner level – the course was taught in English and it was the language of our debates and dissertations. Having said that I built up enough vocabulary to survive – ask directions, buy tickets, order food etc. I could talk a little about myself but not really have a full conversation with someone. Managed to learn a handful of characters though which enabled me to read a train timetable or the destination on the front of a bus and spot a few things on a menu.

Did you ever need to get away from travelling whilst you were away – how did you relax ?

I sometimes needed to get away from the MA and went travelling! Sometimes just walking, though it’s amazing how relaxing rail travel can be. With deadlines looming many an edit or essay draft was tweaked on a laptop on a night train!

What items do you always carry around with you and why ?

The obvious answer, quite predictably, is a camera. I suppose I always have, even in the days before mobile phone gadgetry I would often have a film compact with me on days I wasn’t carting around an SLR. Before I left the UK I had my eye on a waterproof and shockproof digital compact… which I subsequently bought in Hong Kong.

This trip was also the first time I’d travelled with a laptop computer – essential for editing and cataloging images as they are shot. It was a headache at times, always having to ensure it was safe (not to mention the extra weight), but I think the burden justified itself this summer when I was contacted by a publisher in Hong Kong looking for pictures of Chinese museums while I was in the wilds of Guatemala…

Fellow Globetrotter James Robinson met you in Montreal and relayed stories of you following a notion down through Central & South America. What happened next ?

But first, how did I end up in Montreal?? I was way-out-west in Alberta’s Cowtown, taking advantage of the snow in the Rocky Mountains to get some downhill skiing in…

Two and a half years previously when travelling in Morocco I’d met a French-Canadian, Marie-Eve, who told me that next time I was in Canada I must visit Quebec. West Jet, Canada’s budget airline, had reasonably priced flights from Calgary to Montreal (if you go at 3am on a Tuesday.) And while I was there, I met Valerie with whom I spent the spring and made a plan to tour Mexico for the summer.

The original intention had been to head for the Copper Canyon and its scenic mountain railway journey either at the beginning or end of the trip. The way it panned out though was to start in the Yucatan and head south to the jungle at Palenque and up to the highlands of San Cristobal before crossing into Guatemala. A month there saw hikes up active volcanoes, trips out to the jungle and a weekend on the pacific coast.

Then it was back into Mexico and up to the capital city via Oaxaca, Acapulco and Puerto Vallarta. I stayed in Mexico for independence day celebrations on Sept 16th before heading back to Montreal.

Due to constraints with deadlines…the second half of this interview with Gavin will appear in a later edition… The Ant

Hello all,

this month we’ve got quite a packed edition to enjoy !! As you can see the club itself is now fully into its new season with the return of two well regarded speakers, Justin Marozzi & Jonny Bealby – both spoke eloquently to a busy London branch meeting and were enjoyed by the appreciative audience.

And also included are two larger than normal articles by Neil Harris and Sandra Reekes – both talking about their recent trips and featuring some very good pictures. Let me know if you prefer these larger articles or should I keep to the usual 1000 words guideline…

I also need to remind you that the deadline for applications to the 2008 Globetrotters travel award is 31 October – so if you’re a club member and have a unique, independent trip in mind … write in with an outline and you never know, you might find that the club contributes up to £1000 towards your costs.

To close this month I have an appeal from the BBC – for their new natural history show … the corporation are looking for adventurous people who enjoy adventures with nature. Have a read of Write in (2) and let your imaginations run riot !!

That’s all for now … remember to adjust your clocks as daylight savings is shortly leaving us,

The Ant

theant@globetrotters.co.uk

With host Kevin Brackley, the club’s Membership Secretary, at the lectern the London branch enjoyed the return of two of its most welcome speakers, Justin Marozzi and Jonny Bealby:-

Justin spoke about his latest adventure “Travels with Herodotus. historical adventures with the father of history”, which traces his travels around much of the world as known to the Greek scholar nearly 2500 years ago. Justin’s talk was part hero worship, part correcting historical myths and part brain food. Often it is hard for an audience to follow such an ancient subject, but as Justin pointed out … much of what Herodotus experienced echoes through to our more modern era – Persia (Iraq) was torn apart by war, Greece & Turkey were mercantile & political rivals and Egypt was already deeply embedded into antiquity. For me & for subsequent reviewers however the most vivid moments were centred around Justin’s time spent lunching with Patrick Leigh Fermor, in the latter’s home in Greece … between the two men a warmth & personal bond developed over a long, languid lunch. I enjoyed their sense of shared eccentricities, their continued questioning of the wider world and the fact this meeting of the generations happened around a table with food & wine flowing…

Justin Marozzi is a writer and journalist who has travelled extensively throughout the Muslim world – to read more view his web site at http://www.justinmarozzi.com/

Perennial favourite & all round nice guy Jonny this time spoke passionately about the Silk Route and Wild Frontiers’ experiences of including trips based along it into their calendar. To a particularly attentive audience, which also saw much of the club’s Committee counting up kisses from the man himself, Jonny regaled us with what it meant to him to travel the Old Silk Road on horseback. Whether it was talking about the stunning sights he had chance to enjoy, the enterprising & resourceful peoples he met or how he handled mishaps whilst on the journey, Jonny took us with him all the way. His talks are never dull and as shown by the raft of questions afterwards, Jonny engages his audiences.

To learn more about Jonny and his travelling world view http://www.wildfrontiers.co.uk/

For details of the forth coming meetings of the London branch, October 2008 through to July 2009 – http://www.globetrotters.co.uk/meetings/lon09it1.html.

London meetings are held at The Church of Scotland, Crown Court, behind the Fortune Theatre in Covent Garden at 2.30pm the first Saturday of each month, unless there is a UK public holiday that weekend. There is no London meeting in August, but we start afresh in September. For more information, contact the Globetrotters Info line on +44 (0) 20 8674 6229, or visit the website: www.globetrotters.co.uk.