Category Archives: enewsletter

Conde Nast Traveller's Next Seven Wonders of the World

According to Conde Nast Traveller’s, the “Next Seven Wonders” of the world feature two concert halls, a museum, two stores, a church and a hotel.  They are:

  • Tenerife Auditorium, a curving, soaring concert hall on Santa Cruz de Tenerife in the Canary Islands.
  • The Kunsthaus contemporary art museum in Graz, Austria, a blue, other-worldly building with light flowing in from 16 nozzles, dubbed the “Friendly Alien” by locals.
  • The six-storey Prada tower in Tokyo with a facade made from diamond-shaped grids of glass, some concave, others convex, illuminated from within at night.
  • The Jubilee Church in Rome, comprising three concrete shells, soaring skylights and glass exterior walls that fill the church with light.
  • The Selfridges store in Birmingham, England, a futuristic pod of a building with 15,000 glittering aluminium disks covering its wavy walls.
  • Hotel Unique in Sao Paulo, a boat-shaped semicircle, complete with round nautical-style windows.
  • Frank Gehry's Walt Disney Concert Hall in Los Angeles, known for its acoustics and reflective stainless steel panels.

Is there anywhere you’d like to nominate as the next wonder of the world?  The Beetle would like to nominate the Gherkin, also known as the erotic gherkin, or more properly known as the Swiss Re Tower in the City of London.  Let the Beetle know and we will compile a list for next month’s e-news.

Being Careful: Bulgaria

From the UK’s Foreign and Commonwealth Office: You should be aware of the risk of indiscriminate attacks by terrorists in public places, including tourist sights, throughout the world. Although there is no recent history of either domestic or international terrorism in Bulgaria, we believe there is an increased general threat to visibly British institutions and organisations from global terrorism as there is in all other countries in this region.

Crime levels are roughly comparable to the UK. Organised criminal groups are active in casinos, nightclubs, prostitution and elsewhere. Much local violent crime is the result of turf battles between criminal groups. You should beware of groups of young pickpockets (often children) in city centres, especially busy shopping areas and underpasses. Thieves and pickpockets also target holidaymakers at Black Sea coastal resorts. You should leave passports and other valuables in a hotel safe or other secure place. (You are strongly advised, however, to carry a copy of the information pages of your passport as proof of identity).

Car theft is commonplace. Thieves target prestige and four-wheel drive models, but any unattended vehicle is at risk. If possible, you should use alarms and other visible security measures.

Fave Website

www.thetravelrag.com

A great resource that has travel stories, photos, accommodation reviews, travel book reviews and commissions travel writing.

Top Ten travel Tips by Silja Swaby

Silja was our roving correspondent at the ITW show in London in January.  We asked what were the most important travel tips she came away with after having attended some of the talks and walked around the show several times.  This is what she reported back on:

1 Insecticide evaporates quickly, so reapply frequently in heavily infested areas (Paul Goodyer, Staying Healthy on the Road).

2. Sponsorship can cost a lot of money to get, and may not be worth it in the end (James Greenwood, Global Ride on Horse Back).

3. Travel writers should have an angle, or put another way, why should they publish your work? (Travel Writing – Dream Job panel).

4. Whatever your injury check your insurance company will pay for treatment, and if you travel with a group and you go off alone, you may not be insured (Mr. Henderson, Getting the Most from your Grudge Purchase).

5. The three greatest hazards in the jungle are flood, dead trees falling on you and hornets (Ken Hames, Survive the Jungle).

6. Email your CV to yourself if you don’t want to carry copies, especially across borders (The Big Trip panel)

7. You can earn money abroad by taking a Teaching English as a Foreign Language (TEFL) course (I-to-I TEFL Workshop: Travel and Earn).

8. If you send publishers sheets of transparencies, copyright and caption each one as they may get separated (Travel Writing – Dream Job panel).

9. If you video your trip, take care with sound as wind can obliterate voices (Tarquin Cooper, How to Make & Sell a Film of your Expedition).

10. A disposable nappy is a great dressing for a head wound, it even has holes for ears (James Greenwood, Global Ride on Horse Back).

Silja Swaby is a consultant marine biologist, runs her own business, travels, and writes.  Right now she is looking for a publisher for her book about travelling light, and is planning an expedition with a horse.  If you would like to contact Silja, her e-mail address is: siljaswaby@hotmail.com

BBC Disease Map

Spotted by our webmaster, this is a really neat idea.  The BBC have put together a ‘Disease map’ that lets you click on your intended destination region and then shows you a brief overview of the diseases that are present in some or all of the countries there, and the vaccinations that may be required.

This is for advisory purposes only; many countries in the same region have widely differing immunisation entry requirements – it is best to consult your travel agent or GP well before departure to ensure that you fulfil these.

BBC Disease Map


Airline News: April 2004

Continental Airlines have announced that they plan to eliminate paper tickets by the end of 2004 in a bid to cut costs, theft and paperwork.  95 percent of its domestic customers and 88 percent system wide use electronic tickets.  The move includes tickets for international travel and those that involve other carriers.  Continental said it has terminated 50 interline ticketing and baggage agreements with carriers that do not have electronic ticketing capabilities.  Customers will still be able to make reservations through travel agents or on the phone, as well as on the Internet, but they will not receive paper tickets.  Instead, the reservations will be stored electronically.  Passengers who check in either via their computers at home or at airport kiosks will still receive the paper boarding passes that allow them to board planes.

Singapore has announced that it will build a new terminal at Changi Airport to cater for low-cost airlines once the carriers agree on its design.  Budget airlines are proliferating in Asia, challenging the dominance of full-service carriers such as Singapore Airlines and Malaysia Airlines.  In the meantime, low-cost airlines may use Changi Airport's two existing terminals, though charges for no-frills airlines would not be lower than those imposed on their traditional competitors.

Singapore based Valuair has become the first budget carrier to get official approval to fly from Changi Airport.  Valuair, set up mostly by former Singapore Airlines plans to start flying in May to Bangkok, Jakarta and Hong Kong.

Singapore Airlines, the world's second-largest airline by market value, has teamed up with the founder of Irish discount airline Ryanair, Europe's biggest carrier by value, to launch Tiger Airways.  Tiger will compete with Singapore's Valuair, set up mainly by ex-Singapore Airlines staff, and is gearing up to launch in the second quarter of 2004.  Both will also be pitted against Malaysia's Air Asia, which is setting up an airline joint venture in Singapore and has applied for an airline license.

Toronto Pearson Airport opened one of the world's most expensive airport terminal.  The new CAD$3.6 billion (USD$2.7 billion) Terminal 1, whose price tag has enraged the airlines around the world that will have to help pay for it is the first stage of an overall redevelopment project for Toronto's Pearson International Airport.  Terminal 1 will eventually expand to take over the functions of two existing terminals, which will be bulldozed. The capacity of the airport, which is currently 25 million passengers a year, is expected to double by 2015.  Pearson is Air Canada's busiest hub, with 50,000 passengers flying to, from and through Toronto on its flights everyday.  The new terminal's sophisticated technology is complete with automatic check-in counters, multiple baggage claim kiosks, and even a parking guidance system that points drivers to available spaces.

According to a survey of US airline quality, three of the top four performing airlines last year were low-cost carriers.  The survey measures on-time performance, customer complaints, mishandled baggage rates, denied boardings and other criteria from the Transportation Department's monthly consumer reports.  JetBlue was the top-rated airline for fewest denied boardings and was second for on-time performance and fewest customer complaints.  Alaska Airlines ranked second, followed by Southwest Airlines, America West and US Airways, which is struggling in the face of low-cost competition.  Bankrupt United Airlines ranked ninth, while the biggest carrier, American Airlines was 11th.   Delta Air Lines ranked 12th.

State-owned Air Malta is setting up a base in Manchester, north-west England, to operate charter flights to Greece, Spain and other European destinations.  The first flights will start in May 2004, just days after Malta joins the European Union on Saturday, May 1.  Services will also operate between Catania in Sicily to London.

Malaysian low-fare carrier AirAsia said it would offer air tickets to Macau, known for its casinos, from Bangkok for as little as USD$25 from June 15.  AirAsia is an aggressive player in Asia's budding no-frills market where competition is heating up with entrants such as Singapore-based Valuair and Tiger Airways, a venture between Singapore Airlines and the founder of Irish no-frills airline Ryanair.

Cooking for the Prime Minister of Tanzania by Jean Milnes

Although, now perhaps ‘old news’ to those of us living and working in Mikindani we couldn’t let this event pass unreported. Last November The Old Boma’s reputation had had yet another shot in the arm! The District Commissioner invited us to prepare lunch for the Tanzanian Prime Minister and 30 of his party; approaching election time he was going to be making an official visit to Mtwara Region for 2 days. However it was not to be held at the Boma but at a Primary School in the remote village of Hinju some 50 km inland from here. The village is so remote that there are no facilities at all – no power, limited water and we would have to take absolutely everything with us. Initially they thought we would donate the entire cost! However, when I explained that we are a charity they agreed to give us a ‘donation’ to the cause which did just about cover the cost of the food.

Old Boma OutdoorFriday – the shopping trip to Mtwara took 5 hours whilst Esther searched all over town for enough chickens to feed this crowd whilst the goat in question was tethered outside the Boma bleating for a few hours. Saturday – kitchen a hive of activity chopping, cutting, marinating and counting bottles of water, soft drinks, plates, glasses, knives, forks etc. Last minute panic appeared non-existent – my own memories of the night before a major event of this importance were very different!

It was a very early start on the Sunday morning – but the excitement was tangible! On the unmade country roads there was no sign of a police or security presence -the only suggestion that the PM might be in danger was the Prime Minister’s Waiter hovering around ‘tasting’ the food whilst we were preparing it – he must have approved because he kept coming back for more!

We had originally been told that lunch would be at 2.00pm – then they changed that to 12.30 – as it happened the official party turned up at 2.15! But there was a lot of ‘on site’ preparation so several hours were required. We were given the headmaster’s office for preparation (including the barbecue – his office will never smell quite the same!) and the classroom next door was turned into a dinning room. The rest of the food preparation and the cooking was done in the open air on the other side of the school!

In the ‘dining room’ tables were arranged around the edge of the room in a ‘U’ formation and white sheets were used as table clothes. With the new Boma china, some hastily created green & black batik it all looked very elegant or at least as elegant as it could be in a classroom with concrete walls, a corrugated iron roof and a huge old blackboard on the wall!

Attempts at transformation! (The red bits are roses made from tomato skins) The official party arrived in a flurry of dust as about 40 cars swept into the school ground. In the background was the celebratory sound of drums and chanting, and there were dancers that we could hear but not see from our corner of the school ground. Because they were so late we abandoned all attempts at ‘silver service’ and put a couple of desks in the centre of the room as a buffet and allowed them to help themselves. We were advised to do this so that we could not be held responsible for delaying them and influencing how long they took to eat!

The menu

Roast Goat (marinated with ginger and then cooked on the BBQ)
Marinated Chicken (with garlic and lemon, also cooked on the BBQ)
Beef Curry
Vegetable Curry
Pilau rice / Plain rice / Ugali / Salad
Fresh fruit – (as the PM does not eat any fruit that is already cut – it was just bananas!)

The Boma Staff TeamAfter they had eaten the District Commissioner invited the whole Boma team into the room, introduced us and gave a short speech of thanks for providing such a wonderful lunch. He acknowledged that the Boma is run by Trade Aid and proceeded to thank Trade Aid for providing this opportunity for employment and the development of tourism in the Mtwara Region. The Prime Minister's photographer recorded the event and held a photo shoot taking a number of pictures on the Trade Aid digital camera.

Once all the clearing up and packing up was complete we set off back to Mikindani. ‘Tired but happy’ is a phrase that comes to mind! PS -  all the Boma China that went to Hinju came back intact! Well done! to the team once again.

The summer is soon here and that reminds us of our romantic honeymoon we had last summer. We want to share our memories with you.

We got married last summer outside Brighton, UK, after 10 years together and we had a fantastic wedding with all our friends, 110 persons. On our honeymoon we wanted to start with relaxing on the countryside and then some city life. We choose Sweden and Stockholm,  not far from London, and with fast direct access. And we found a tour operator, Peace and Quiet Travel,  offering what we were looking for.  Three nights in the beautiful Mälar Valley and two nights in Stockholm! The week after our wedding we were on our way.

Surahammar ManorAfter picking up our rental car at the airport and after some looking on the map we found Surahammar Manor. A fantastic place in the Mälar Valley with romantic surroundings! And such a family atmosphere! The owners themselves welcomed us and we got a high standard room facing the parkland. All rooms are  individually decorated with elegant antique furniture. And we really enjoyed the welcome dinner with Swedish schnapps. In the evening we went early to bed, talked about our wedding and revelled in that pleasant tired feeling in your body and serenity in your heart that only a great day can  bring!

And what did we do in the Mälar Valley?  After breakfast we went canoeing and brought our own picnic lunch with us. Total relaxation and what a scenery, unspoilt and beautiful!  In the afternoon we decided to go fishing, a new experience for both of us. We hired the equipment and thought  that we had to go far away,We were fishing from the Manor's park! but not. We were fishing from the Manor’s park! After some hours we had got four salmon trout and thought it was enough. In the evening we prepared  them together with the cook. Never has a dinner tasted so good!

Next day we decided to be a little cultural so we went to Tidö Castle, a well-known Mälar castle. Tidö is from the 1600s and famous in part for its 43 magnificent carved doors with wood inlay and also for a comprehensive toy museum. We enjoyed a romantic walk, before dinner, in the Manor’s flower-filled parkland, along small paths, over  small white bridges, and watched carp  swimming in the pond. Our last day we tried horse riding, new for me but not for Mary. The stables were just five minutes away and an instructor took care of us  and gave us a riding lesson and then we went out in the  countryside in a slow pace. Both relaxing and exiting! The service at Surahammar was very high, they suggested excursions and helped us in every possible way.

Stockholm city life: We checked in to our double room at hotel Terminus, located in the very centre of Stockholm. The hotel  opened in 1909 and is well-known  for its traditional atmosphere and personal service.  Near to all that Stockholm offers of restaurants, theatres, shopping, historic buildings and other attractions. In the afternoon we enjoyed a walking tour in the Old Town and visited the Royal Castle. In the night we went to Spy Bar and mingled with Stockholm’s glitterati!  The day after we took a guided boat tour under the bridges of Stockholm.  And visited the Vasa Museum, a 17th century pride of the Swedish fleet, resurrected 333 years after sinking and the nearby Skansen, a zoo and the world’s first open-air museum. In the evening we just relaxed  in one of Stockholm’s open-air cafés and enjoyed the city nightlife.  Before leaving to the airport we just had a morning of leisure.

If you are interested in spending some time in the Mälar Valley, contact Eva at Peace and Quiet Travel, a Swedish tour operator, offering all sorts of packages to the Mälar Valley and combination Stockholm city and countryside.  Eva can be contacted by e-mail on: info@peaceandquiet.co.uk or take a look at their website:

Man Lost

Delta Air Lines lost an 80-year-old man with Alzheimer's disease who was supposed to have been given an escort between flights in the Atlanta airport, said his relatives.

Antonio Ayala was flying from New York's LaGuardia airport to El Paso, Texas, and had to change planes in Atlanta.  He disappeared after his flight landed and was not found until nearly 24 hours later, near a bus station in downtown Atlanta, several miles from Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport. 

Delta spokeswoman Peggy Estes said the airline was not told of Ayala's medical condition and it cannot be held responsible for the whereabouts of every adult passenger. 

The airline flew Ayala's relatives to Atlanta and housed them in a hotel while they waited for him to be released from the hospital.  It is not the first time that a person with Alzheimer's has been lost by an airline.  In 2001, Margie Dabney, 70, became separated from her husband during an American Airlines stopover at Dallas-Fort Worth International Airport.  Dabney was never found.  Last year, her husband, Joe Dabney, agreed to an undisclosed settlement with American Airlines. He had sought $10 million.

Brazil to Fingerprint US Tourists

According to a recent poll, Brazilians appear to approve of measures to photograph and fingerprint US tourists entering the country, a move that sparked a diplomatic tiff between the nations.  Of 2,000 people surveyed, 74.4 percent said they agreed with the immigration procedures, which were enacted at the start of the year in a tit-for-tat retaliation for similar security checks by the United States.  The measures sparked a diplomatic row between the two countries and have been widely criticized by US travellers, including an American Airlines pilot and a retired US banker who showed their displeasure by giving their middle finger while being photographed.  Although some Brazilians worried the measures would deter US visitors at the height of the tourist season, the system has revealed resentment among Brazilians over what they consider to be costly and humiliating procedures to get a US visa or enter the United States.  Visitors from other countries need not worry, however, as only 3.2 percent of those polled thought the procedures should be extended to other foreigners entering Brazil.

Sicily: Caltabellotta and Selinunte by David Cross

CaltabellottaSciacca is not really on the tourist trail although it is extremely pleasant and some of the upper town is really picturesque. There is no really cheap place to stay, though the Paloma Bianca in Via Figuli was not really dear. The main appeal of Sciacca for me is the fact that it is an ideal place for an excellent bus trip to the hill village of Caltabellotta. Sicily has so much to see [I missed the lovely west coast and most of the interior, including a terrific Roman villa] that I suspect a lot of people never make it to any of the smaller towns. Even though I obviously saw them at the cost of some better known larger places, Erice in particular, I feel that it is a pity not to sample some and this is a beaut. From my knowledge of Sicilian hill villages I would say that somehow they are less picturesque from a distance but quite as good when inside them as those of the mainland. On the ride to Caltabellotta it is going up high, rather than heading for the village, which gives the pleasure and you need to be well up in the village to see it at its best.

Having said that, once you go up from the bus terminus to the very top, you will certainly want to find ways to other parts of the crest. In one place you can go through a tunnel to see the magnificent view from the other side – if you are fully fit you could actually get this from the castle. The wind that hit me from the other side as I came out made it feel about fifteen degrees lower temperature. No doubt this is a considerable exaggeration but it was a great feeling in the reverse direction! Here there are two fine churches just below vast rock outcrops, one Norman and one Gothic. I use ‘Norman’, rather than ‘Romanesque,’ as a descriptor because the Normans did actually get to and settle on Sicily, unlikely as that may sound. I really go for rooftop views as well and the town below looks far more stunning to me from up here than from below.

Caltabellotta This was only my fifth night out of eleven but already lack of time was forcing me to adjust my plans. I had meant to go right around the island anti-clockwise and hopefully to do a trip into the Villa Imperiale inland. I now realised this was far too much to take on and I abandoned any notion of reaching the west coast or Segesta, a spectacular site to the west of the island’s capital, Palermo. This meant cutting from the south coast to the north at Palermo itself. I decided on one further southern escapade first – a trip to the ancient Greek settlement of Selinunte It was necessary to change at Castelvetrano from the bus bound for Trápani to the local minibus to Selinunte and the modern village of Marinellla which is little more than the accommodation for those going to see Selinunte. It turned out that the wait in this rather ordinary place [Castelvetrano] was going to be over an hour and a half, and then when the bus was quarter of an hour late.

This afternoon was well up to the standards of the very best parts of my trip. Not only was the sun shining warmly from a blue sky but the spring flowers were blossoming in profusion all over the site and beyond. The site itself is terrific – as good a set of Greek remains as that at Agrigento to my mind and I felt that to have missed it would have been unpardonable. There are three areas of particular importance: the eastern temples, the Acropolis area and, some distance away, the Necropolis. I concentrated on the first two. This in itself covered a considerable area and involved several kilometres of walking but I am sure the number of people I saw was not as many as eighteen.

Selinunte The eastern temples were mainly erected in the sixth century BC and one of them, Temple E as it rather prosaically named, was reconstructed in the 1950s. Apparently this was and is controversial but I feel no qualms about it as long as some are left as they are found. Whatever, it is a magnificent building and I am sure a full size re-construction must be the best way of illustrating to children what these temples were like. The Acropolis area contains another five temples and most of the ancient living area as well as the remains of the great walls. These walls, however, are older than the rest of the remains, having been built after the city had been destroyed once by Carthage in order to defend the high ground from further destructions.

David was a keen walker, particularly on mountains before he developed serious heart problems in 1995. He has now adapted his holidays to what he is able to do and we are presenting his account of 12 days in Sicily over this and the coming months. Next two episodes: Palermo.

Hydrogen Fuelled London Buses

The UK’s first hydrogen fuel cell buses have gone into service in central London for a two-year trial that also involves nine other European cities, making it the largest project of its type in the world.   DaimlerChrysler developed and manufactured the Citaro buses and BP is managing the project and providing the hydrogen-refuelling facilities.  In London, three of the No 25’s are being trialled on the 11-mile from Ilford to Oxford Circus from January 14th.  Each bus has a range of 125 miles between each refuelling.   

Fiji Storms Cause Loss of Life

Seven people have died and hundreds have lost their homes in Fiji after severe storms hit the main island of Viti Levu in the South Pacific.  Nine people are still missing.  In one of the worst incidents, five people died when their bus was swept away by a landslide.  

Rift Valley Fever

What is it: Rift Valley fever (RVF) is an acute, fever-causing viral disease that affects domestic animals (such as cattle, buffalo, sheep, goats, and camels) and humans.  RVF is most commonly associated with mosquito-borne epidemics during years of heavy rainfall.

Where could I get it: RVF is generally found in regions of eastern and southern Africa where sheep and cattle are raised.  However, RVF virus also exists in most countries of sub-Saharan Africa and Madagascar.

What happens if I get it: people with RVF typically have either no symptoms or a mild illness associated with fever and liver abnormalities.  In some more extreme cases, it can lead to hemorrhagic fever (which can lead to shock or haemorrhage), encephalitis (inflammation of the brain, which can lead to headaches, coma, or seizures), and eye disease.

What do I do if I get it: usually patients recover within two days to one week after onset of illness.  About 1% of humans that become infected with RVF die of the disease.  There is no specific treatment – just rest and taking plenty of fluids.

How can I prevent catching Rift Valley Fever: avoid bites of mosquitoes and other blood-sucking insects, so use of mosquito repellents and bed nets.  Also you should avoid exposure to blood or tissues of animals that may potentially be infected.

Frequent Flyers Vetted for Fast Track

The US government wants to begin testing a program this summer that would allow low-risk frequent fliers to avoid extra security inspections at airports.  Passengers could volunteer to pay a fee and submit to government background checks.  If they are not found to be potential threats, they would avoid being randomly selected for the follow-up screening at checkpoints where carry-on bags pass through metal detectors.  The aim is to move law-abiding and non-threatening travellers more quickly to their planes and permit screeners to focus more on people about whom the government has less information, said David Stone, acting chief of the Transportation Security Administration.  The program, which will last 90 days could begin in June, is expected to appeal mostly to frequent travellers who would think the cost would be offset by the time saved at airports.

Flags Quiz

Which countries are represented by these flags?  For the answers, see at the end of the e-news.

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Kenyan Matatus

Travellers to Kenya will know that a ride in a matatu (minibus) can be a hair raising experience.  The last time the Beetle was in Kenya, a fellow traveller reported that he was on a matatu that crashed, because the driver was drunk and there were so many people on board that two occupants died. In response to a law published last year by the Kenyan government to fit in safety belts and speed governors as a measure to curb increasing road accidents, Kenyan matatu (minibus) operators are rushing to beat a government deadline to fit safety equipment on their vehicles.  But the chairman of the Matatu operators Association Simon Kimutai says only 10% of the vehicles have complied with the new rules.  Commentators say that Kenya's public transport system is heading for a crisis when the new laws become effective this month because so few matatu owners have complied.  The new law requires the matatus to sport one colour and have a yellow strip and matatu drivers and conductors will have to wear uniforms and badges.  Let’s hope that this does bring some safety to Kenya’s roads.

Mutual Aid

This is my first request to your excellent newsletter. I'd like to know if anyone knows of anywhere in Tibet where a young (23) year old guy could go to learn overtone chanting. Have you any ideas/sources/reports of young people. I'd love to know, and I can then pass the message on: di.hinds@ntlworld.com

Need help? Want a travelling buddy or advice about a place or country – want to share something with us – why not visit our Mutual Aid Forum section of the Website: Mutual Aid


St Moritz and Lucerne by Iona Hill

I went to St Moritz for a week in February – on a course in a place called Randolins in Survetta, a little way outside the town – not skiing.  Randolins is a not for profit organisation that caters mainly for groups, such as children on ski camps or adult learning.  It's a very nice place, simple, but comfortable – definitely not your 5 star kind of place.  It has shared rooms and you have to take part in the chores, so things like going and getting the food for each meal and wheeling it down to your building on a trolley, washing up, laying tables etc.  If you are looking for a group venue, it's not a bad place.

St Moritz is in the Upper Engadine.  Can't comment on skiing, but can say a few things about the town.  It's quite small, easily walkable, very posh with a very high fur coat count and is pretty expensive!  There are two parts to St Moritz: there's the dorf which means village and this is above the lake.  This is where the posh hotels, restaurants, shops etc are.  St Moritz-Bad is about 2km away southwest down on the lakeshore and is not such a pretty place, lots of concrete flats and other buildings.

Sculpture in LucerneThe name of St Moritz has an interesting story attached to it: the story told to me was that Maurice (later turned into Moritz) was a Christian and came from Egypt.  He served in the Roman army under Julius Caesar and led a Theban legion for the Roman empire and fought in the Alps.  He refused to obey the order of the Emperor Maximian and sacrifice some Christians to the Roman gods because he was himself a Christian.  On hearing this, Maximian ordered Maurice's regiment to be decimated – i.e. every tenth person killed, and this went on until no-one was left.  And so commanding officer Maurice became a saint.  Legend has it that the rock used by Maurice to lay his head on so that he could be beheaded is at St Moritz.   Like England's St George, St. Maurice is a patron of knights and soldiers.  From the 12th century, due the similarity between his name and Maurus, he was depicted as a Moor, so he became the black saint.  

Even after Roman times, St. Moritz was known during the Middle Ages for its mineral springs and healthy climate and it became the first alpine winter sports and tourism centre in Switzerland.  It also hosted two Olympic Winter Games (1928 and 1948.) It became the famous ski and alpine sports centre that it is mainly due to the British, who went over in the 1860s and liked it so much they went back and stayed an entire season, and the word was spread.

To get to St Moritz is very easy, you can take a train from Zurich.  I flew from London to Zurich on Easyjet (AKA Sleazyjet) and that was a good price at around £75 including taxes.  Swiss Air and BA all fly there too from the UK but are more expensive.  There is a train station underneath the airport at Zurich and you can take a train from here to the main train station in the centre and go to Chor, change there for St Moritz.  The whole train journey from Zurich took about 3 1/2 hours. 

There are plenty of taxis outside St Moritz train station and the drivers seem to speak every language in the world between them.  Swiss Italian and Swiss German seem to be the predominant languages – and be warned, whilst many Swiss people are amazing linguists and speak good English throughout, if you were thinking (like me) to practice your German, think again, Swiss German is quite different.

Swiss trains are a delight – always on time, clean, and I especially like the double decker trains.  Whilst the airport is non smoking throughout – a fairly recent change, I think, the Swiss do allow smoking on trains, so be careful about which compartment you get into, if you are a non smoker.  I got on an intercity from Lucerne to Zurich and inadvertently sat in a smoking section, which by the time I realised, was too late to move as it was packed full.

Buying a Swiss rail pass makes a lot of sense.  I paid £105 for a pass that allowed me free travel on three specified days.  The days do not have to be consecutive.  The pass also allows you to receive substantial discounts on other trips.  You can buy rail passes for different lengths of trip.

I also went to Lucerne or Luzern.  Beautiful!  It's about 4 hours from St Moritz by train – and only an hour or so by the fast intercity train from Zurich, which also goes direct to the airport as well, which is pretty handy.  It is situated on a lake and has lots of history.  The river Reuss separates the old town from the newer, although that seemed pretty old to me too!  Then it flows into the lake.  The town is also very easy to walk around and was my highlight on this trip to Switzerland.  The train station is very close to the edge of the lake and close to the Art Museum and within easy reach of the hotels by foot.

I stayed in the Hotel Krone which is a Best Western and is in the Old Town, it was very nice and has free internet and the people there were very nice.

bridge across river lucernThere are lots of bridges across the River Reuss, it reminded me a little of Ljubljana, especially with some of the dragon symbols, some of my friends said Stockholm.  One of the most famous is the Chapel bridge built in the 14th century as a part of the city's fortifications and named after St. Peter's Chapel, which is located nearby. It has paintings on it including some info on the city's patron saints, St. Leodegar and our friend St. Maurice.  There's also a very splendid 17th century baroque Jesuit church.  I really liked the water spikes that act like a lock  to regulate water levels like in a canal. and you can see the remains of water mills.

There are lots of old squares and beautiful buildings with pictures on the walls, red spires and steeples.  The Weinmarkt is one of these old squares, and is by the Hotel Krone – very pretty. There's also a great restaurant, and not too expensive (for Switzerland!) in the cellar of the town hall, or Rat Haus that has its own micro brewery inside – great beer, and good food, especially the Braui special which has lots of different types of pork and sauerkraut.  It is also a good place to go and talk to local people, as everyone seemed really friendly.

View from Rigi KulmOn my final day in Lucerne, I went to the tourist information centre at the train station and asked where I could go in the mountains.  They suggested a trip to Rigi Kulm, so, using my rail pass, instead of paying 79 Swiss Francs, it cost me 29 Swiss Francs.  It was a great adventure!  I took a boat across Lake Lucerne, and then a funicular or cog wheel train up the mountain to the top of Rigi Kulm, about 1,800m, so not too high, and then the cog wheel train to the half way point and a cable car down to Weggis back down by the lake, and the boat again back to Lucerne.  It was a wonderful half day trip, where we could see above the clouds, the mountain tops poking through, then there was the lake and the green of the alpine pastures leading up to the mountains.  There are a couple of other mountain type trips you can do like this whilst based in Lucerne.

Then  I took the train from Lucerne back to Zurich airport, the direct trains run at 10 minutes past the hour and it took about 1 hour.

I’d definitely recommend Lucerne as a base for 2/3 days to explore.

Rotten Squid Gases Crew

Three crewmembers found dead on a South Korean freighter that washed ashore in Shimane Prefecture on Sunday may have died after inhaling toxic gas generated from rotten squid organs, local Japan Coast Guard (JCG) officials said.  Three crewmembers were found dead in two storage rooms of the freighter and its skipper was unconscious in one of the rooms.  JCG officers found rotten internal squid organs in storage rooms where the three men were found dead.  Investigators suspect that the three crewmembers died from either an oxygen shortage or inhalation of carbon monoxide that had been generated from the rotten squid organs. The coast guard office said carbon monoxide and hydrogen sulphide were detected in the cabin.