Category Archives: enewsletter

Afghan Ladies Driving School

The Beetle read a touching account from the BBC News on-line about women in Afghanistan having freedoms but not being free to enjoy these. This is what it said: Girls can go to school, at least in the big cities like Herat and Kabul, and a fragile peace now exists in a war-torn country that has known only brutality and chaos since 1979. But some things, it seems, have not really changed at all.

Mamozai’s Ladies’ and Gentlemen’s Driving School was one of the first driving schools in Afghanistan to allow women to enrol. The Taleban thought the idea of teaching women how to drive was “satanic”, but Mr Mamozai’s school now has more than 200 female graduates.

Even so, the women are often told to “sit up like a man” by their male instructors as they navigate the precarious back-roads of Kabul, and to “stop driving like a woman. ”

But then that is hardly surprising. Most of the instructors are ex-Taleban and they do not really think women should drive at all. They certainly would not allow their own wives to drive


Mac's Travel Reminiscences

 Mac has not been very well, but is still e-mailing strong. Here’s an account of a trip he made to South Africa some time ago.

In South Africa I had been cutting my own hair but was invited to some wealthy South African friends of a friend of mine home. (They had their own game reserve, plane etc. ) so I thought I better get a better haircut so as to not disgrace my friend. When I went to the barber he took one look at my hair and said. “I see you have been having a go of it yourself. ‘

At a Catholic church in Johannesburg they hear confessions in Sesotha, Padi, Tsnamia, Zulu/Xnoise, Chiceno, English, Afriken, Dutch, Spanish, Italian and French but the priest did not understand my English (thank heavens!) At Notre Dame Cathedral in Pairs they hear confessions in Esperanto. Learning Esperanto is a good way to meet Esperanto speakers all over the world. I have a friend that speaks Esperanto and he goes all around the world spending a day or two with someone he has met this way. Actually all I think he knows how to say is Hello.

A white South African priest in Cape town told me that when they had apartheid he went out to meet an American priest at the airport. He could not find him and finally found him in the black section. When he asked the priest why he was there, the American said the other waiting room read Europeans Only and he was not European. This was his way of making fun of apartheid.

When I was in South Africa, a Canadian lady went on Sabi Sabi Reserve looking for animals. They got up at 5am each morning as we did also. They had a guide who warned them to not stand up if they saw any animals. They did this for three days and all they saw were birds! We were luckier at the Kruger Game Park. Sometimes you are lucky and sometimes you aren’t. If unlucky I suggest you go to the wonderful zoo in Pretoria. I enjoyed it even after being to all the game parks.

At hotel Killarney in Durban South Africa they had a Monks Inn where they have strip shows with lunch. You often see signs Steak, Eggs and Chips. This sign read Steak, Eggs, and Strips. If you see a strip show in a Monks Inn is that a double sin?

At Bergkelder winery at Stellenbosch (a university town in South Africa) I leaned that sweet taste buds are at the front of your tongue and bitter taste buds are at that back of your tongue. I wonder what I will learn tomorrow? Probably that I have a headache.

I went to see the l000 hills near Durban. There are 1000 Zulus living in 1000 hills. I asked the Zulu guide if I only looked at l5 of them (the hills) could I get a discount? He jokingly ordered me off the tour bus. He told us some of the Zulu history. There was a Zulu King named “Follow Me” in Zulu. He got a young girl pregnant. He denied he was the father saying it was a false pregnancy (her imagination. ) When the baby was born the new mother named the baby boy False Pregnancy, in Zulu, “Shaka. ” Shaka grew up to be a warrior and leader of the Zulus. He trained the Zulus to walk barefoot on thorns to toughen their feet (we did the same thing in basic training. ) It was rather a long but true story and one of the lady tourists interrupted this fascinating story to announce that she was cold.

The oldest bar in Capetown is the Firemans Bar. Firemen from ships used to go there. On the wall they have listed a telephone service with charges for answering services. He’s not here: 20 cents. He’s just left: 25 cents. Haven’t seen him all day: 30 cents. Haven’t seen him all week: 35 cents. Who? 40 cents.

In Durban I wanted to go out to the Hare Krishna Centre (there are a lot of Indians that live in Durban and some are very wealthy. ) I had not been out to the Hare Krishna centre in Virginia but decided to see this one in South Africa. I was told to take the Indian bus out from the Indian market. I asked how I would know the Indian bus and was told, “It has Indians on it. ”

En route to Addo Game Reserve 90 kilometres from Port Elizabeth, the guide was telling us the farmers in the desolate area raised goats. The German along with us did not know what animal the driver was talking about. I pointed to my goatee and then he knew. They used to feed the elephants citrus fruit and apples at 4. 30 PM (there is a travel book entitled Elephants arrive at half past four. ) But they have quit doing this as they want the elephants to take care of themselves so they now issued them food stamps. The elephants are smaller at this reserve.

If you would like to get in touch with Mac, he is happy to correspond by e-mail when he is well. His e-mail address is: macsan400@yahoo. com


Our Friends Ryanair

Ryanair will soon make passengers who wish to travel with bags that weigh over 10kg (the weight limit for bags permitted as hand luggage) pay £5 per piece of checked luggage, or £2. 50 per bag if it has been registered in advance on the airline’s website – an initiative the budget airline claims will mean only 25 per cent of its passengers losing out financially. For those who have bags that weigh more than 20kg, there will be an excess baggage fee of £5. 50 per kg.

This means that for example, two people cannot share their luggage allowance. This is a u-turn to existing policy where Ryanair used to allow passengers travelling together to pool their baggage allowance. The move will penalise families with young children in particular, as children do not have a separate baggage allowance so their belongings must be included in their parents’ allowance.

For passengers travelling with hand luggage only, the new rules could be good news, as those in possession of an EU passport will now be able to check in online at www. ryanair. com , before going to the airport and will be eligible for priority boarding.

The charges will apply to bookings made after March 16.

Also from March 16, Ryanair will allow passengers to by-pass airport check-in if they have previously checked in on the carrier’s website. This service is available to EU passport holders travelling with hand luggage only and mirrors a similar recent move by smaller low-cost rival Flybe. These passengers will be given ‘priority boarding’ which will also reduce boarding gate queues. However, passengers checking in baggage on flights booked after March 16 will now pay a fee — 2. 50 stg (3. 50 eur) per bag, per flight, if booked in advance on the website, or 5. 0 stg (7. 00 eur) per bag, per flight, if presented unbooked at the airport.

Simultaneously, Ryanair is increasing each passenger’s luggage allowance from the current 25 kgs to 30 kgs — comprising 10 kgs carry-on and 20 kgs checked in luggage, a move it reckons will substantially reduce excess baggage fees.

Passengers who check-in on the web claiming hand luggage only but then turn up at the boarding gate with baggage will be sent back to the check-in desk and ‘fined’ £25.


Mutual Aid

Need help? Want a travelling buddy or advice about a place or country – want to share something with us – why not visit our Mutual Aid section of the Website:

Mutual Aid


Being Careful: Eritrea

The British Foreign and Commonwealth Office advise against all but essential travel to Eritrea. We advise against all travel to the border areas with Ethiopia and Sudan. In recent weeks, restrictions placed on the UN Monitoring force by the Government of Eritrea have further heightened tensions along the Ethiopia/Eritrea border. This advice includes Tesseney, near the Sudan border. We also advise against travel in the area north of Afabet in the Sahel region and along one road in the west of the country (see Local Travel Section below for details).

In November 2005, UN agencies in Eritrea withdrew families of their personnel in response to increased tension between Ethiopia and Eritrea over their disputed border. On 6 December 2005, the Government of Eritrea told UN Mission to Ethiopia and Eritrea (UNMEE) staff from USA, Canada, Europe and the Russian Federation to leave the Mission within 10 days. The relocation of these personnel to Ethiopia is now complete.

You should be aware that there is a continuing threat to Western, including British, targets from terrorism in Eritrea as there is in other countries in East Africa and the Horn.

You should be aware that travel restrictions may limit our ability to offer immediate consular assistance outside Asmara, Keren, Dekemhare, Mendeferra and Massawa.

Travel options to and from Asmara are limited following the cancellation of scheduled flights between Asmara and Nairobi.


Famine in the Horn of Africa

Thinking of visiting the Horn of Africa? You along with millions of others may go hungry.

The United Nations food agency (FAO) has warned that millions of people could face starvation in the Horn of Africa, which includes Kenya, Somalia, Ethiopia and Djibouti. The FAO say around 11 million need food aid.


Globetrotters Travel Award

A member of Globetrotters Club? Interested in a £1,000 travel award?

Know someone who is? We have £1,000 to award each year for five years for the best submitted independent travel plan. Interested?

Then see our legacy page on our Website, where you can apply with your plans for a totally independent travel trip and we’ll take a look at it. Get those plans in!!


Have you got a tale to tell?

If you have a travellers tale that your aching to tell. Then why not visit the “Travel Sized Bites” section of the Website and share it with the world.

Travel Sized Bites


Meeting News from London byPadmassana

Our first speaker today was Terry Richardson, who showed us a new walking route in Turkey called “The St Paul’s Trail”, which starts down on the coast near Antalya and heads off up into the Taurus mountains for 500km.Terry showed us how he helped to set the walk up, which meant not only painting red and white way marks on posts etc, but also involved crossing rivers. The walk is very much geared to the people you meet along the way, there are few if any hotels, mostly walkers camp or stay with local families. The walk does take in some wonderful scenery including ancient sites, lakes and canyons, For more information you can visit www.stpaultrail.com

After the break it was Jonny Bealby’s turn to give us a wonderful talk, which although advertised as being Pakistan, turned out to be the story of how he got into the travel writing and tour business. When tragedy struck in India he was moved to ride a motorcycle from North Africa to Cape Town, which at the time took him through countries at war such as Angola, it took Jonny and his heavily laden machine just 100 days, he then rode back up again. But instead of just being a short term way to deal with his grief it mushroomed into a trip around Afghanistan, where he hired his own protection squad of mujahideen, though this didn’t stop some of the locals taking pot shots at him. Jonny now takes groups to such diverse places as Uzbekistan, Pakistan which though recently struck by the earthquake is now once again on the tourist trail. For more information you can visit www.wildfronriers.co.uk

By Padmassana

Forthcoming meetings: Saturday 7th January 4 Mini Talks and our New Year Party – Our January meeting gives four speakers to present 20 minute talks, an opportunity to introduce subjects within a tighter format. We hope that talks may include topics that couldn’t be sustained over a normal 40 minute talk or offer a launch for new speakers. By tradition we follow this meeting with a New Year Party post-meeting – everyone is invited to bring food and drink and participate!

London meetings are held at The Church of Scotland, Crown Court, behind the Fortune Theatre in Covent Garden at 2.30pm the first Saturday of each month. There is no London meeting in August, but we will be back in September. For more information, you can contact the Globetrotters Info line on +44 (0) 20 8674 6229, or visit the website: www.globetrotters.co.uk


World's highest gig at Everest

British musicians claim to have set the world record by playing a gig at the world’s highest altitude – above Mount Everest’s Base Camp. The Everest gig was organised by British charity The Nepal Balabalika Trust (Trust for Nepalese Children) and lasted 40-minutes before about 100 mountaineers, and aimed to raise money for children victimised by armed conflict in Nepal. The musicians who played also included Martin Harley of The Martin Harley Band, and solo artists Ben Michaels, Michael ‘Skyhook’, Billy Page, Mike McGuiness and Nick Storey, said trust member Jason Merry.


Peru/Chile Cyber Spat

The Peruvian judiciary’s web page has been targeted by a suspected Chilean hacker. There have historically been disputes between Chile and Peru. Now they are embroiled in a diplomatic dispute over fishing waters in the Pacific Ocean. Peru is claiming a 37,900 sq km (14,600 sq miles) area that is currently under Chile’s control.�

In the past, Chileans and Peruvians have also argued over the rights to Pisco, an alcoholic drink which Peru claims as its own but is trademarked, produced and marketed in greater volume by Chile. They have even argued over whose seafood is better.�

The Peruvian authorities said the suspected Chilean hacker posted several anti-Peru messages on the country’s judiciary website. One read: “We fight for what is ours. The ocean and pisco are Chilean!” There were also insults directed at Peruvians in general.�

Media reports say that a cyber attacker has posted missives proclaiming: “We do as we like with our policy and our ocean” and “Nobody can match ceviche (citrus-cured fish) and pisco, or equal their quality”.


Meeting News from Ontario

For information on Ontario meetings, please contact Svatka Hermanek: shermanek@schulich.yorku.ca or Bruce Weber: tel. 416-203-0911 or Paul Webb: tel. 416-694-8259.

Meetings are held on the third Friday of January, March, May, September and November. Usually at the Woodsworth Co-op, Penthouse, 133, Wilton Street in downtown Toronto at 8.00 p.m.


Iraqi Treasures Stolen

More than two years after the fall of Saddam Hussein, 10,000 artefacts looted from the National Museum of Iraq are still missing and archaeological sites across Iraq have been plundered. The National Museum of Iraq is closed to the public and inside just about everything portable has been stolen, all except a dozen ancient statues which are just too vast to move. Unfortunately, sue to the on-going violence in Iraq, no-one has the time or manpower to look for either the stolen museum pieces or to protect the sites scattered around Iraq.


Manas – Wildlife Heaven by MKS Pasha

Against the backdrop of the Eastern Himalayas lies a grass and jungle habitat of unparalleled beauty. Tigers, Asian elephants, golden langurs, one-horned rhinoceros and Bengal Florican share this wilderness with other rare and endangered species. And, as it flows down from the Eastern Himalayas to the plains below, the silvery waters of the Manas river nurture this paradise and the myriad creatures that reside within. Manas was chosen by UNESCO to be a World Heritage site.wild buffalo

Manas is in Assam, and is a National Park included as part of the Project Tiger Reserve in 1973 at the time of launch of the Project Tiger in India. The Reserve area falls in six districts, Kokrajhar, Bongaigaon, Barpeta, Nalbari, Kamrup and Darrang. Barnadi Wildlife Sanctuary is located in the buffer of the Reserve. Manas is located at the confluence of Indian, Ethiopian and Indo-Chinese realms resulting in the magnificent biodiversity.

Home to the wild buffalo, elephant, tiger and rhino, Manas harbours the maximum number of endangered species from India as listed in the IUCN Red Book. Lying in the foothills of the outer Himalaya, the low-lying and flat Manas habitat is a linear belt that extends between the Sankosh river to the West and the Dhansiri river in the east. Manas landscape offers one of the most stunning sceneries among the wildlife areas in India. Additional excitement is to make time for a trip across the river to Bhutan for which you need permission from the authorities. Permits to visit can be obtained from the Field Director’s Office in Barpeta Road.

Key Species: Tiger, capped langur, wild buffalo, hoolock gibbon, golden langur, elephant, pygmy hog

The weather: climate is typically moist tropical. The temperatures in summer are at a tolerable 35�C with nights at 18.3�C. The winters are cool with a maximum temperature of 24�C and the minimum at a chilly 7.2�C. Rainfall between 3,332 mm. to 4,489 mm. is a regular feature. Heavy downpours that flood the park are not uncommon. The humidity is high, up to 76 per cent. November and February are deemed to be the best seasons.

Getting to Masnas: By Air: Guwahati airport is 176 km. away. By Rail: Barpeta Road (40 km.) is the closest railhead to Guwahati. From here, one can continue onto Manas by road. Barpeta Road also serves as the sanctuary headquarters. By Road: Manas is accessible from Guwahati (176 km.), Kaziranga (403 km.), Darjeeling (466 km.), Shillong (287 km.) and Siliguri (386 km.) . Vehicles can be taken up to Mothanguri. Jungle visits may be on elephant back, jeep or car. With special permission boat rides are possible.

MKS Pasha is a Wildlife Conservationist by profession. He has a Masters’ degree in wildlife and has carried out wildlife research for 6 years with the apex Institute of India: Wildlife Institute of India on Ecology of Indian Bison. He has travelled extensively through India and has worked for Wildlife NGOs coordinating species conservation projects. He currently heads up the wildlife division of Travel Inn India Pvt. Ltd, one of the leading companies in wildlife tours in India. He can be contacted by e-mail: khalidpasha@travelinnonline.com or visit his website: www.travelinnonline.com


The Daily Telegraph Adventure Travel& Sports Show

13-15th January, 2005 at Olympia, London

Where better to start Planning your Adventure holiday or Career break than at Olympia this January?

  • Over 250 exhibitors * Over 100 free talks
  • New exhibitors, new speakers, new features, new ideas for 2006

Whether you are a discerning traveller looking for inspirational holiday ideas or a seasoned adventurer, come and visit us at Olympia this January – it’s where the adventure begins. Now in its 11th year, The Daily Telegraph Adventure Travel and Sports Show is the only event dedicated to showcasing the UK’s biggest collection of off-the-beaten-track holidays. For everyone planning a travel experience in 2006 – from gentle treks to rafting the Grand Canyon to taking a career break – this is the only opportunity to meet directly with more than 250 specialist adventure travel providers from around the world.

Visit www.adventureshow.co.uk for full details on talks and features and up to date show news. 13 – 15 January 2006 Olympia, London 10.00am – 6.00pm daily

Globetrotters members can get Tickets for �7 in advance (�10 on the Door) by quoting ‘Globetrotters’ by Visiting www.adventureshow.co.uk or call 0870 161 2122


Mutual Aid

Need help? Want a travelling buddy or advice about a place or country – want to share something with us – why not visit our Mutual Aid section of the Website: Mutual Aid


Small Town, Big Fishing Problem! byRon Kirstein, edited by Lisa Cole

 Port Renfrew is a small Canadian town with a major fishing problem. The problem is the sport fishing is great and only a few people know that. We arrive in Port Renfrew in late afternoon. Captain Quigley greets us at the entrance to Osprey Cabins. Quigley and his family provide these comfortable cabins in a beautiful rural setting – and there’s an outdoor hot tub to boot!  Their place is one of the most popular accommodations in Port Renfrew, and their rates are very reasonable.

Captain Quigley is one of the most skilled and knowledgeable guides we’ve ever met. We’ve been out with the affable “Capt Quigs” before, at his other fishing operation in Sooke, BC. (45 minutes west of Victoria), so we know we’re in good hands!

The alarm shatters our solid sleep at 5 a.m. We’re on the water by 6:00. The sun is just coming up behind us as we speed westward, heading towards the mouth of the San Juan Inlet. Quigley’s boat is fast and powerful. We hang on to our seats as we bounce over the big waves!

We stop just off Camper’s Bay, where the West Coast Trail from Port Renfrew meets the “Pacific Ocean” for the first time. The shoreline cliffs are spectacular and carved into numerous huge dark caves.

Captain Quigley points over the port side towards the open Pacific. “Next stop Hawaii, and that way, Japan!” The water is as calm as it ever gets out here, but the rolling swells are huge. The sun is shining brightly now, but cool dark fog is already rising from the water, cloaking the cliffs. It looks like the trees are suspended in the air far above us. Captain Quigley tells us we’re sure to catch some big ones today. Swiftsure Bank, where Juan de Fuca Strait drops off into the deep blue Pacific, is where halibut and salmon are most plentiful. It’s hard to believe we’re fishing on the edge of the open Pacific Ocean.

 The first one I catch is a screamer! They call it that because it grabs the bait and takes off. The line literally ‘screams’ as the fish runs. Quigley knows what to do. He puts the boat in gear and chases the fish. My eyes almost pop when I look down at the reel and there are only about 3 wraps of line left! In seconds, the fish has run almost 300 yards of line. I reel as fast as I can until the line’s tight again and the fight’s back on. Non-stop excitement, boats all around us are getting strike after strike. On Quigley’s radio, we can hear the guides sharing information about their catches – “Double strike, 40 feet down!” They all share their success so everyone else can succeed too. Even when there’s a lull, and the fish aren’t biting, Captain Quigley is entertaining us. He teaches us his latest fish-luring chant and the accompanying dance: “Chinook, Chinook – Bite on my hook, my hook!” There’s never a dull moment on board. And when the fish are biting, Quigley is a very patient teacher: “Let him run! That’s it?? He’s got the whole boat to play with. Let him tire himself out??”

 Later, Quigley tells us a story about the biggest fish ever landed on his boat. He had taken an elderly couple on an expedition, and it was turning out to be a disappointingly uneventful day – not one bite! Until they decided to turn back??. Then, all of a sudden, they got a nibble. It was a huge struggle, but with Quigley’s help, they reeled it in – a 52 pounder! Now that’s a really big salmon. It went on to win several categories in the fishing derby. We catch our limit long before the charter’s over, each fish is in the twenty-pound range. We had about 100lbs of fish on board, enough to feed us all winter! (We were fishing for spring salmon as the Coho and Sockeye fisheries were temporarily closed.) When I made dinner that night, back in Victoria, one fillet filled the grill on my barbeque! Five people dug in and there was 2/3 left over! We’re talking serious salmon here, folks! Small town, big fishing problem – right? Now you know.

Ron Kirstein is the owner of a Canadian Travel & Tourism Web site (since 1995). Ron has travelled the length and breadth of Vancouver Island BC Canada in search of adventures – see – http://tourismmall.victoria.bc.ca/travelmagazine


Kalahari Bushmen Claims

Survival International, a London-based organisation which accuses the Botswana government of ethnic cleansing against the Kalahari Bushmen has come under fierce criticism for allegedly distorting the true picture. One of the largest Bushmen groups in Botswana, the Kuru Family of Organisations, claims that is untrue. “There’s no genocide taking place, there’s no ethnic cleansing taking place,” said Braam Le Roux, a coordinator of the group.

Stephen Corry, director of Survival said: “Ethnic cleansing, yes. Genocide, it’s a question of looking at the term. We are very close to saying this is outright genocide, although the government has not, as yet, outright killed people.” Survival International works with around 700 Bushmen, either evicted from, or facing eviction from the Central Kalahari Game Reserve, their ancestral land for 20,000 years.

Stephen Corry’s understanding of genocide is the forced removal of the Bushmen, which he believes will lead to their eventual destruction as a distinct people.