If you have a travellers tale that your aching to tell. Then why not visit the “Travel Sized Bites” section of the Website and share it with the world.
Travel Sized Bites
If you have a travellers tale that your aching to tell. Then why not visit the “Travel Sized Bites” section of the Website and share it with the world.
Travel Sized Bites
A Brisbane woman has been killed in a shark attack at Amity Point, North Stradbroke Island near Brisbane. She was swimming about 15m (49ft) offshore when she was attacked in water which had become murky and muddy after a recent storm. Police believe that possibly three bull sharks could have attacked the young woman as they are known to be aggressive during mating season. Before you start to worry, let’s put this into perspective: there have been 10 fatal shark attacks in Australian waters in the past five years.
A tip from Mac’s friend, world traveller Stanley Sagara who travels around the world giving used glasses to the poor of the world (his next trip is to Ethiopia) gave me this travel tip: photocopy your travellers cheques as well as first page of your passport, drivers license, all your important papers. (This tip would be good even if not travelling. ) He suggests looking at back of papers to see if there is important information there as to how to get items replaced etc. and photocopy that side too so you know who issued cheques as well as who to notify in the event of loss or theft.
In December 2005, a drunken male passenger on a flight from northern England to the Spanish tourist island of Tenerife was dropped off at a small island off the African coast after he swore at the cabin crew. Press reported that the plane’s captain decided to leave the man at Porto Santo, just 10 miles long and four miles wide, a volcanic outcrop in the Atlantic, after he became abusive when he was refused more alcohol. (The island does have a few hotels, so he wasn’t left to sleep on the beach in case you were worried. ) Needless to say, police met the man at the airport who is due to appear in court in mainland Portugal in January.
To ensure UK travellers are fully prepared for your travels moving into 2006 please be aware that from 1st January 2006, UK residents travelling in Europe will require a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC). This will allow you to benefit from free or reduced-cost medical care when travelling in an EEA country or Switzerland.
The EHIC replaces the E111 and is free of charge. For further information on the introduction of the EHIC and on how to apply for an EHIC, see: www. dh. gov. uk/travellers
If you are found to be a stowaway on a ship, the ship owners are obliged by law to bear the costs to send you home.
Unfortunately for seven Tanzanian stowaways who recently boarded a ship sailing to South America at Mombassa in Kenya, three Ukrainian sailors allegedly forced the seven stowaways to jump overboard. Two of the seven Tanzanian stowaways are believed to have drowned while five managed to swim to safety, say police.
Saturday 4th March 2006, 10. 30am – 4. 00pm at the newsroom The Guardian
60 Farringdon Rd
London EC1R 3GA
Cost: £89. 99 (inc VAT)
A day of two intensive workshops:
Travel Writing – How To Do It, and How Not To with Dea Birkett, Guardian columnist and author of Serpent in Paradise and Off the Beaten Track.
Fact, Fiction and Creating a Traveller’s Tale with Rory Maclean, author of Falling for Icarus and Stalin’s Nose.
The workshops include practical writing sessions. Participants should bring pen and paper – they will be expected to write! The emphasis is – whether you are a beginner or already have some writing experience – on developing skills which can be applied to both articles and books. Our aim is that, by the end of the day, each of you will have the tools to produce a publishable piece of travel writing.
Already done some travel writing? Contact travelworkshops@deabirkett. com for details of the Travel Writing Masterclass on Saturday March 18th 2006. Or book the Workshop and Masterclass together and save over £20.
The government of the Malaysian state of Johor says it is to organise an attempt to track down a legendary ape man said to roam its jungles. There have been a spate of sightings of Big Foot, known in local legend as Hantu Jarang Gigi – ghosts with widely spaced teeth. Last November three fishery workers claimed to have seen a Big Foot family that left footprints up to 45cm long. Conservationists say that damage to branches suggested that the creatures could have been up to 3m tall. There were similar sightings by members of the local indigenous minority who said they had seen a ‘King Kong’ covered in black fur. Now, the chief minister of Johor, Abdul Ghani Othman, says a proper scientific expedition will track Big Foot’s big foot-prints.
A Chinese HR company has announced it would like its new staff to include plenty of “dogs”. To reflect this, in its recruitment ad, they invited only people born in the Year of the Dog to apply. The reason? A personnel manager for the company said, “We believe that people born in dog years are born with some good characteristics such as loyalty and honesty. ”
According to the Chinese zodiac, 2006 is the Year of the Dog. Were you born in the Year of the Dog? Those born in 1922, 1934, 1946, 1958, 1970, 1982 and 1994 were all born to this astrological sign.
“There must be a better way than this!” Jane muttered as she shuffled forward with all the other budget airline passengers. “After all it’s only a two hour flight, so why not make it just that little bit more comfortable, and not treat us like cattle?” Jane knew that it was a hackneyed expression, but said it anyway. It amused her as she thought of different names, such as Moove-over airlines, for the not so discerning traveller, and, Stampede Express, for the tourist who gets caught up in the rush. Jane must have laughed out loud as several enquiring and accusing faces glowered back at her. She could see them looking and shaking their heads in disbelief as she snorted with laughter! “Piggy Airlines, oink, oink, no free grub here!”
By now she was in convulsions, and only managed to stop when an over watchful security guard walked by and stared at her. “Threat to security too am I? Didn’t know that no frills meant no giggles too, oink, oink!” But, discretion being the better part of valour she shut up for fear of being kicked off the flight. The plane finally took off forty minutes late, with the pilot cheerily telling everybody, they would make up the time en-route. “Now sit back, relax, and enjoy the flight.” Jane would have liked to have done so but found herself wedged in between two rather large people, who, as it turned out were travelling together. Jane thought. “Why on earth don’t they sit next to each other?” So she asked the lady if they would like to change places. “Oh no! We were on first, and this is where we stay, thank you very much. Besides Ronny has to have the aisle seat, as he always gets air sick!” Jane shuddered at the thought, and to try and take her mind off what might happen she began to read. But as soon as the seat belt sign went off, ‘Mrs Ron’ needed to use the toilet! It seemed to take ages for all three to get unwedged from their seats and in the scramble Jane’s book got trampled on, tearing its cover, and scattering several pages under the row in front.
Finally ‘Mrs Ron’ was free. But, just as she started down the aisle, the seat belt light went back on. The flight attendant, who looked about twelve, but with the authority of a sergeant major, commanded ‘Mrs Ron’ to return to her seat, ‘for her own safety, as we are about to come into some turbulence.’ Hastily ‘Mrs Ron’ did as she was told, but on her way back to her seat, managed to reduce the remainder of Jane’s book into a mass of unreadable waste paper. Jane gave a mirthless grin, and sighed, “at last, real pulp fiction!” as she closed her eyes to try to shut out her predicament. No chance there though! Just as she began to doze off, Jane got an elbow in her ribs. She woke with a start to see Mrs Ron delving into a large bag. Jane watched with interest as she rummaged deep into its seemingly bottomless interior, finally producing a foil pack that was literally bursting open with food. Mrs Ron leaned over Jane. “Pilchard and sweet corn sandwich first Ron?”
Jane groaned as Ron reached over, clammily grabbing the strong smelling sandwich, and devouring it in three big bites! “Mmmm, that was good,” he mumbled, “what’s next?” Mrs Ron passed him a large flaky sausage roll, which he proceeded to eat in the same fashion, that was until he inhaled a crumb, and began to cough violently, and in all directions at once! Jane got her share, and so did the man across the aisle, but as he was sleeping didn’t notice his newly decorated arm. Jane just sat there, unable to move, because Mrs Ron was leaning over her fussing around with tissues. “There, there, dear, shouldn’t bolt your food, that’ll teach you not to be so greedy.” Just then the pilot’s voice came over the intercom. “Good afternoon ladies and gentlemen, we hope that you’re all enjoying the flight, you’ll be very pleased to know we’ve made up the forty minute delay, caused by congestion over Paris, and now we’re ahead of schedule, and should be landing in approximately thirty minutes. The weather in Barcelona is sunny and the temperature is 21�Celsius. If you look out of the windows you’ll see a lovely view of Southern France and the Alps, but please remain seated as there are some thunder storms ahead and we may experience slight turbulence, but there is nothing to worry about so please sit back, relax, and enjoy the flight” Jane groaned. “That’s about the last thing I can do, I just want to get off, things can’t get any worse than this, I hate it!”
But she spoke too soon. Ronny leaned over to his wife and announced he felt ill! He reached for the sick bag, just in time, and it was all Jane could do to stop herself from copying him. But she held her breath, and her resolve, until slowly the nausea passed. This didn’t stop ‘Mrs Ron’s’ panic as she proffered more tissues to her ailing husband. Luckily the flight attendant was on hand with a damp cloth, and a replacement bag. For the rest of the flight a very pale looking Ronny sat there, seemingly glued to his seat, with the sick bag and damp cloth clamped firmly to his face. When they finally touched down, Jane breathed a sigh of relief, but all to soon. because no sooner had the plane come to a standstill Mrs Ron was up and trying to clamber over her to help her husband. The damp cloth landed on Jane’s lap, and the sick bag dropped onto the floor under her feet. It was awful, her worst nightmare come true. But Jane’s inscrutability stayed constant. Only a few more minutes and they’d be out of her life forever, or so she thought!
Jane hadn’t realised that the airport was about 90km from Barcelona, at least another two hours journey. She’d planned to meet up with her friend Helen in time for lunch, and would have liked the chance for a shower beforehand, but by the time the bus was destined to arrive there it would be mid afternoon. “Nothing I can do about it anyway” Jane shrugged, as she bought her bus ticket. “I may as well sit out in the sun ’til its time to leave” She propped her shoulder bag against a tree, and, using it as a pillow, closed her eyes, breathed in the airport aroma of aviation fuel, tobacco, and coffee, and listened to the sounds of activity all around her. The constant gentle drone began to relax her and she started to regain her composure from the flight when she heard it! She sat up straight and looked. There they were, “The two Ronnies” pushing an overloaded baggage cart towards the bus. Jane watched as the driver, who had been sitting on a bench smoking and reading his paper, slowly get up to help them with their luggage. From his gaze Jane could already see his contempt for them building up as they neared him. He helped them to stow their cases and watched as they climbed up into the hot and stuffy bus. They collapsed into opposite seats and began fanning themselves with newspapers.
Presently the driver started the bus to get the air conditioning going, and slowly it began to fill up. But Jane, being a ‘super-cool’ independent traveller remained sitting in the sun until the last minute! The driver signalled to her that he was about to leave, and to get on board. Jane stamped her ticket and found a seat, well away from the two Ronnies. The driver began to check the tickets and as he made his way towards the back of the bus she heard a familiar voice. “Two tickets please.” She listened as the driver explained :”You must buy your tickets in the airport building but please hurry as we are going now!” The two Ronnies barged their way off the bus, making a lot of fuss and complaining loudly. Finally, just as the driver was about to remove their luggage, they returned looking rather hot and flustered. Jane began to feel sorry for them, as they seemed very dejected and forlorn. But, her sorrow was short lived as they plonked themselves down heavily in the only empty available seat, right behind her!
Eventually they arrived in Barcelona and Jane got to meet up with Helen. Over a drink at a pavement caf� she began to recount her journey, the crush to get on the flight, the cramped conditions, her neighbours eating habits, and finally the long bus ride to Barcelona. Helen stared at Jane in disbelief. “That must have been pretty uncomfortable Jane, but I’m surprised at you. We’ve been friends ever since junior school, and I always thought that you had an eye for a bargain!” Jane stared at her. “What do you mean? I got here for less then �70!” Helen laughed. “Plus your food, plus the bus fare, plus no choice of seat, plus the crush to get a decent place, plus the hassle of cramped claustrophobic conditions. I reckon you must have parted with at least �100 to get here. Need I say more?” Jane splutteringly tried to justify herself. “OK Helen, how did you get here then, by magic carpet?” Helen smiled sweetly back at her. “I booked my British Airways ticket on line, it cost me �90.00 all in, I got the seat that I wanted, and a snack on the flight. Plus they fly directly into Barcelona, and not some distant airport. By travelling my way I got here quicker and have more time to do everything I want to! Taking all your extra costs in to consideration I reckon I got the better deal don’t you?” Jane pondered for a moment, but had to reluctantly agree, and as she mockingly poked out her tongue she replied. “OK, smarty-pants, you’re right, I think I’ve learned my lesson. The cheapest deal isn’t always the best. Next time, before I press the ‘accept’ key on my computer, I’ll do some research and check out all of the options including Thomas Cook. Now, come on! Finish your drink, and lets get sight seeing. There’s so much I want to see. Besides, see those two people hovering at the entrance?”
Norway’s Directorate for Cultural Heritage has begun a unique program of setting up signs to highlight historical landmarks – underwater. The signs will be placed in order to discourage vandalism and plundering. About 30 shipwrecks in southern Norway will get the familiar preservation sign from the directorate, to help divers appreciate – and respect – some of the country’s less obvious attractions. Signs will be placed at depths of 10-30 meters (33-98 feet), and will point out wrecks and cargo that are particularly vulnerable to plundering.
We mention the Trip Advisor survey in the side bar, but we thought you may be interested in seeing some of their key findings from a recent survey of over 3,000 travellers.
TripAdvisor.com is leading global travel information and advice destination, with more than 2.9 million unbiased reviews and opinions and covering 200,000+ hotels and attractions. With more than 18 million unique monthly visitors worldwide (source see
Jon from the UK writes, in connection with a travel warning issued by the UK government about the Philippines:
I’ve visited the Philippines 3 times this year and travelled widely. I think our FO is overdoing it with its travel warning. The Sulus, Basilan and parts of Mindanao are certainly to be avoided but the rest of the country is pretty safe. Local skirmishes do break out between anti- government forces and the army but you will be stopped from getting too close to such a situation, in the unlikely event that you are close. This happened to me in Mindanao 2 weeks ago.
I have always felt pretty safe and found most people helpful and friendly. I believe the risk of street crime is substantially lower than over here. There is remarkably little begging and hassling, especially considering the low standard of living of many people. Large scale corruption is a way of life, led by the President and her family, but is need not be the concern of tourists. In short, do not be afraid of going to the Philippines on holiday, just avoid southern Mindanao and the Sulu region.
I was looking forward to my first visit to Scandinavia. I had always wanted to visit Sweden but had been put off by the impression that it is really expensive and the desire to have better weather than at home when taking a break. Gothenburg is located on the south western coast of Sweden, at the mouth of the Gota River. As the plane descended toward Gothenburg City airport I had my first glimpse of Sweden. There was no sign of snow, but plenty of conifers and great views over the coastline. As I didn’t feel like rushing off the plane, I underwent a rather rapid acclimatisation as the end of the queue for passport control stretched outside in the icy blast. I donned the polo neck, hat and gloves before venturing out to find the bus into the city, There were a few people hanging around but no sign of a bus. I asked a young Swedish couple and they told the bus would not be there for over an hour. They asked if I wanted to share a taxi into the city with them. They were returning home from Carlisle, their place of study, for the holidays. Another young guy approached us, enquiring if he could share the taxi too, and he was a Swedish student from Edinburgh. The bus would have cost �4 but it was �6 for the shared taxi. I was glad to reach the city more quickly while it was still light.
My hotel, the Eggers, was just across from the railway station. It was originally built in 1859 as the railway hotel, yet although it was so central it was amazingly quiet. It was renovated in the 1990s, with the aim of maintaining its original charm. As soon as I stepped into the lobby I was in awe of the marble floor, the pair of Doric Greek Revival pillars and the chandeliers. My hotel room was understated elegance. It even had a small, tasteful chandelier. It was very comfortable, with appropriate antique furniture but also had a broadband internet connection!
I’d heard so much about Liseberg Park that I decided to visit on my first evening. Walking around the park made me feel more festive but in a typically understated Swedish way. It was really quite breath taking. All the 3 million promised fairy lights were white and most of them draped around every branch of the trees, which made them look surreal. It was tasteful commercialism. The park was full of families, the kids excitedly queuing up for a ride in the reindeer drawn sleigh and toddlers practising their ski moves on the gentle nursery slope. There were braziers dotted around the park, in case you felt in need of quick heat or had some nuts to roast. The log cabin craft stalls sold all sorts of food, drink, gifts and homeware. It was very cold and windy, making me glad that I’d packed my thermal underwear.
I had heard the hotel had a haunted room, so next morning, I asked if I could see it. The manager very kindly showed me the room and told me the story. This was where the original owners of the hotel, the Eggers, had stayed. A couple of years ago when a chambermaid entered the room she saw an elderly lady sitting in one of the chairs in the lounge area. The chambermaid apologised to the lady saying that she had not realised that the room was occupied. The head housekeeper was consulted and confirmed that the room was vacant. On another occasion, a Swedish journalist staying in the room was advised by the barman to take a glass for the ghost when she retired to the room with a bottle one evening. She duly poured out a glassful for the ghost and when she awoke next morning the glass was empty!
I was keen to go down to the coast at Salthomen, a half hour tram ride from the city centre. I had a 48 hour Gothenburg Pass (costs around �24 for 48 hours) which covered all public transport, including ferries to the nearby islands and free entry to most museums and attractions. As Tuesday dawned (at around 9am) bright and sunny, I decided I should get going. Instead of being organised and first checking the times of the ferries to the nearby islands, I walked around and did some minor rock scrambling and took some photos. There were lots of boats tied up and wooden jetties to walk along. When I finally made it to the ferry terminal, I discovered that the ferry service had a 2 hour lunch break. There was a ferry just about to leave for the nearby island of Branno, but I either had to stay on the ferry and come straight back to Salthomen, or stay on the island for 2 hours and 20 minutes. I wasn’t willing to chance so long on the island as it was very cold, and I wasn’t sure what cafes or restaurants would have been open on a weekday in low season. I was cursing myself, as at any other time of the day I could have spent an hour on the island.
On arrival back at the city centre I decided to try a Swedish buffet lunch at the Scandic Europa Hotel. It was a wonderful spread, soup, salads, cold meats, breads, three hot main courses and a choice of desserts, for 98 Kroner (around �8). I have to say that I did not find Sweden to be any more expensive than the UK. I believe that alcohol is more expensive than in the UK, but as I never drink alcohol that didn’t affect me.
Then it was off the quayside to see the new Opera House and the sunset from the top of the Goteborgsutkiken (nicknamed the Lipstick). I also wanted to visit the Viking Barken, now used as a hotel-restaurant, and have a look at the cabins/rooms on board. There were 2 and 4 berth bunk bed cabins with shared bathroom facilities, or larger ensuite cabins. However, the lipstick viewpoint/cafe is only open during the summer. Anyway, I was keen to visit the City Museum, which closed at 5pm. The museum houses most of the wreck of a Viking longboat. There is a modern recreation of the boat hanging above, which gives you a more accurate idea of the dimensions. One of my favourite films as a child was a romantic adventure film about Vikings, starring Kirk Douglas. There were some Electrolux cylinder cleaners on display, and seeing things that you recall as household items as a child in a museum was rather disconcerting! There was a room featuring a Jubilee exhibition in Gothenburg during the Twenties. One of the reasons for the exhibition was to show Sweden’s industrial might. It also looked as though there was plenty of entertainment, and there was even a cr�che where you could leave the kids for the day.
The plan for that evening was to visit the Design Museum, as it was late closing there. It seemed to be sensible to do outdoor activities during daylight, and the museums in the evening. I returned to the hotel for a cup of tea (very thoughtfully provided in flasks in the foyer for guests). I already had a cold when I left Scotland and after being out in the cold I could not face going out again. I lay down on the bed at 5.15pm and then next thing I knew it was 7.30. The Design Museum was open until 9pm, but I had a bath, went back to bed and slept until 8am on Thursday morning. Although initially pretty annoyed with myself, I felt so much better the next morning, I consoled myself by rationalising that it was better to lose an evening than to chance feeling awful all the next day.
After breakfast I walked to the Fish Market. It’s called the “fish church”, as the building in which it’s housed resembles a church. It was much smaller than I anticipated. Then it was up to the Tradgards forenignen park to visit the palm house and the butterfly house. I had visions sitting reading with these tropical butterflies fluttering by. It was not to be, as it was closed for renovation. I wasn’t sure which museum to visit that afternoon, but was recommended to go the Universeum, the science discovery centre. it was very imaginatively designed, with a recreated rainforest on several levels and a recreated Swedish landscape from mountain top to the seashore and below. There were also several floors of hands on activities. You could drive a Volvo lorry, design a model and get into nuclear physics (if so inclined). I couldn’t even manage to get 2 racing car models going with binary code! There are plenty of young enthusiastic multilingual guides at hand to explain things.
I did enjoy just walking around the city centre along the canal sides and through the narrow streets and the grand avenues. Gothenburg is a grand city in an architectural sense, very spacious. I’ve heard it called the Swedish Amsterdam. I think that this is a slight on Gothenburg, as in my opinion it is much more attractive and less commercialised than Amsterdam. As a lone female, I felt relatively safe walking around in the evening. There was very little litter around, no beggars or hustlers and a fairly obvious but discreet police presence. As soon as you approached a pedestrian crossing, the cars would stop. All the locals that I spoke to replied in good or excellent English and were very polite and helpful. I would call it an extremely civilised city, low key, sophisticated in an unpretentious manner, far from soulless and regimented yet orderly and relaxing.
Gothenburg can offer something for almost every taste and budget. Families are well catered for, most hotels have family rooms, there is the Liseberg amusement park and the Universeum (targeted at age 5 – 19). Kids under 17 can eat free at selected restaurants with the Gothenburg pass. The culture vultures have a plethora of museums and galleries to visit. The foodies can enjoy several Michelin starred restaurants and great choice of seafood. Nature lovers have the botanical gardens and the nearby coast and islands. Shopaholics have the largest covered shopping mall in Scandinavia. One of my sons tells me that there is a cool club scene there.
Gothenburg really does have it all. With the accessibility afforded by Ryanair flights (under 2 hours from Glasgow Prestwick) it is a great short break destination that does not, contrary to popular belief, break the bank. Many locals said to me that I should visit in the summer as it is lovely then. I enjoyed being there in the winter. It was dead quiet in the museums and the evening floodlighting was beautiful. There’s lots to do inside so your visit is not particularly affected by the weather. I was fortunate in my visit that it was dry all 4 days, although only sunny for one. Although the public transport is excellent, I did mainly walk around my ports of call in the city centre. It was too cold to stand waiting for buses and trams and I felt one sees more when walking around.
Karen Bryan is an independent travel consultant and writer, specialising in less well known destinations in Europe. Her websites are: www.europealacarte.co.uk
Ugandan rebels have murdered a second Briton in less than a week as they step up a new offensive against tourists and aid workers. Gunmen from the Lord’s Resistance Army shot dead a British tourist in an ambush in the north of the country. According to the UK Foreign Office, the man had gone to help a group of tourists whose boat capsized in the Murchison Falls national park in north-east Uganda.�
The tourists had been rafting from Egypt to the source of the Nile, a Foreign Office spokes-woman said. After the rescue, the Briton and the rescued tourists – including Britons and New Zealanders – were travelling by car when they were ambushed and the man was shot. Another killing followed, when a British aid worker was shot dead in an ambush in neighbouring southern Sudan.�
The Foreign Office had already warned on Monday that the LRA may now be targeting “white people”, referring to a hand-written letter apparently written by the LRA and passed to locals last month
Trip duration: 63 days
Trip miles to date: 6,920
Miles since last update: 1,288
The week has passed quickly as I’ve enjoyed being back on the road after the extended lay up in Santiago. Having picked up the bike on the 18th (and being relieved of a very large amount of money from my friends at the BMW garage) I immediately left Santiago and rejoined the PanAmericana (route 5) north bound.
Just to get some miles under the wheels felt good enough, but the expense of the BMW dealership had returned a lot of comfort and peace of mind. The fact that they washed off the grime of the previous 5,000 miles also added to my sense of well-being. I still have reservations about the bike, I certainly don’t believe that nothing else will go wrong, but at least I’m confident that I can deal with it when it happens.
After travelling through the lush landscapes of the wine regions, the terrain quickly changed again as I approached the legendary Atacama Desert – no less beautiful, but certainly more dramatic. The greens turned to rusty browns and the temperature began to rise. First night stop was in La Serena, a pretty resort town about 300 miles from Santiago.
Before long I came across the much photographed Atacama monument. Essentially a hand cast in cement sticking skyward from the desert just south of Antofagasta. During the obligatory photo stop I incurred this weeks disaster (!). Whilst standing next to the bike for a self-timer photo, I watched the strong wind blow the tripod and camera over, straight down onto the lens of the camera – duly destroying the camera.
Extended travel by motorbike is tough on all equipment, things wear out very quickly but I felt this loss deeper than others as I had really enjoyed taking photos. I knew I would shortly be in Bolivia, where chances of getting a replacement would be slim until La Paz (the capital). So I changed plans and headed to Antofagasta for the night and managed to pick up a similar (albeit inferior) Olympus camera, which t least meant that the USB cable and software would already be installed on the small travelling laptop I’ve been using to create the web updates.
The Atacama is an extraordinary environment. It is officially the driest place on the planet with average annual rainfall of 0cms. As the sky is extremely clear and free from interference many countries and organisations choose to locate space observatories in the area – and I happened to pass close to the European Southern Observatory on route to Antofagasta.
The next day I left the main route 5 (The PanAmericana) but not until I had registered crossing the Tropic of Capricorn at 23d 70m S.
I then traversed the Atacama towards the Salar de Atacama – essentially a large dried up salt-bed. It’s a strange feeling leaving the relative security of the Route 5. I would now be on my own for the next 250 miles at the mercy of any mechanical mishaps. What I could control was NOT to crash (!) and to carefully manage my fuel consumption. I had filled the auxiliary 10 litre tank which would extend my range to comfortably make San Pedro de Atacama on the other side of the Salar.
As it happened, there was a steady trickle of trucks coming the other way, carrying salt from the state-controlled mine in the southern edge of the Salar. The photos cannot adequately show the terrain I was crossing and the sense of adventure and the feeling of remoteness and isolation.
This is EXACTLY what I envisaged when I planned this trip.
Before I reached San Pedro, I stopped off at the Flamingo sanctuary on the western side of the Salar and got my first chance to see them in the wild. The surroundings, the calm and tranquil environment and seeing these birds in their natural habitat made a big impact on me and I look forward to seeing more as I travel through the southern regions of Bolivia.
As if sent by a higher authority to reinstate my faith in Germans, whilst at the sanctuary I met with the Kirchhof family. Formally of Dresden, but now resident in Quito, Ecuador and taking a holiday around northern Chile. After a quick soda we exchanged details and they invited me to call them when / if I get to Quito.
San Pedro itself is a sleepy town catering primarily to tour groups and the backpacker industry. It consists of dusty streets lined with adobe buildings containing either restaurants or tour agencies offering excursions to the surrounding attractions. It was nice to stay a day and relax and get some latest information on the state of affairs in Bolivia and location of gas stops etc. A couple of agencies run 3 and 4 day tours into Bolivia, just 80 miles across at this point so I’m hoping they had reasonably up to date information.
Bolivia has endured a period of civil unrest in the past few weeks as confidence in the President and the level of exploitation from foreign owned energy companies has been called into question. Roads have been barricaded and there was a general strike that lasted 2 weeks.
A Venezuelan couple I met in Santiago had been instructed by the Bolivian border control to only visit La Paz – this about three weeks ago. Therefore it is entirely possible I will be turned away at the border and told to enter further north.
But in reality, I may never be in this position, with this opportunity again so I have to take the chance and enter tomorrow. Having talked to locals, and reviewing all the usual website updates (including the Foreign & Commonwealth website) I believe that the climate has cleared a little so I’m hopeful I will be able to enter.
If you want to know more about Greg’s travels, visit his website at: http://www.unbeatentrack.com/
A new terminal dedicated to low cost airlines will open at Singapore’s Changi Airport on March 6 next year the Civil Aviation Authority said. Passenger charges at the new facility will fall to SGD$13 (USD$7.79) compared to the SGD$21 departure tax at the airport’s Terminals 1 and 2. There will be a free bus service for travellers transferring between the terminals
We are sorry to say that Mac is not very well, but he is still e-mailing strong and recently sent the Beetle a collection of travel reminiscences.
It’s true, back in November, Mac met Prince Charles and his consort, Camilla aka Her Royal Highness the Duchess of Cornwall. The British Embassy sent a van to pick up some of us World War II retirees for a wreath laying ceremony by Prince Charles at the WWII monument here in Washington DC.
I told the lady that was trying to get me to go that I did not feel well enough to go but she said “You don’t have to feel well” Ha. I did go and am glad I did. They gave us front row seats and the British military from embassy visited with us and then after Prince Charles presented wreath he walked around the perimeter to have the memorial explained and he came down the line to shake our hands.
His wife Camilla followed and then the British Ambassador, his wife and various British VIPs. I had heard you were not to speak to royalty until spoken to but the Prince put out his hand and I explained that the man next to me was 94 years old. He remarked how well he looked, thanked me for my service. Then Camilla put out her hand and told me her father had been in the military. Her face and appearance looked better than I had expected and afterwards I wondered if it had been her. The Prince incidentally was not as tall as I expected. I almost felt like I should apologize to Camilla for the remarks press made about how she dressed. A buddy of mine, wanting to be nice, said to her, “You have a nice hat.” What made this so funny to me is that I don’t think this friend pays any attention to how women dress. It does make us seem kind shallow to criticize how one dresses.
As for myself I like polyester clothes. They are comfortable to me but some look down on those that wear such. I am the world’s worst dresser. At 8l plus I dress for comfort and for survival. I wear a small backpack for medical stuff and survival stuff (granola candy bars etc) and always have too much in my pockets. People often ask me if I am going hiking. I say “No, just to the White House (joking) I recall some made fun of how Kruchev’s wife dressed when she was here. I thought that was impolite that time too. Ha! I do think it is unkind for the press and comedians to make fun of the way she dresses such as remarks she brought with her 57 frumpy dresses. I thought she was dressed appropriately besides she was nice to me. I told the British Ambassador and his wife about the Chelsea Pensioners (British equivalent to our Old Soldiers Home) visiting us and that I had visited them many, many years ago on my own. Everyone was very nice. Lets all be nice to each other!
I got the impression that they wanted Americans to like them. After the wreath ceremony at WW2 memorial, I looked at the wreath they laid. It had something about thanking WW2 veterans and was simply signed Charlie and Camilla. Or maybe it was Charles and Camilla. No title given and since the wreath was small it occurred to me that later visitors might wonder who this Charles and Camilla were. Ha! Who was this couple that spent their good money to honour WWII veterans??
Our group were impressed with how friendly and down to earth they seemed. You did not feel like you were speaking to royalty and they did not seem to mind that we spoke to them before they spoke to us. A friend said he told Prince Charles that he had visited the Chelsea pensioners in London and had gone out to Sandhurst (their West Point) for passing out ceremony (they refer to graduation as passing out). The Prince asked if he had a good time and remarked that his son was going to Sandhurst. (I thought they usually went into the Navy) To get back to the Charlie and Camilla we were all impressed with how much time they spent going down the line to greet us and how friendly they were. They won us over in their democratic behaviour rather than royal behaviour. Maybe they act differently in England where maybe Royal behaviour is expected.
If you would like to contact Mac, he can be e-mailed on: macsan400@yahoo.com
Trip Advisor, the US based travel organisation recently conducted a survey of over 3,000 travellers. Their findings are that the top three most desirable travel destinations in the next year, if money were no object, are Australia, Italy and Hawaii.
The top three airlines, according to respondents, are British Airways, American Airlines and Virgin Atlantic. Surprisingly, American was also one of the three least favourite airlines, and British Airways was overwhelmingly least favourite among travellers from the U.K.
Delta was the least favourite airline and yet nearly 40 percent of those who chose Delta as least favourite participate in the Delta Skymiles program. US Airways and American tied for second least favourite airline but 36 percent of those who chose them are still enrolled in US Airways’ Dividend Miles and American’s Advantage programs, respectively.
Top considerations for choosing their favourite airline were friendly and helpful staff, sticking to schedules, and best fares and comfortable seating tied for the third.
Webmaster Paul notes that Ryanair now have air sickness bags and you don’t need to ask for them! The catch they look like a film mailer which is what they are as they are “dual purpose” so don’t get them confused if you stick some film in one.
The Belgian judiciary has accused Ryanair of forgery and fiscal fraud. Federal police in Charleroi have summoned two directors of the company, Michael Cawley and Bernard Berger, to answer questions about the allegations at the start of December. Ryanair is alleged to have used Wallonian government support to issue passengers with ‘free tickets’ in a promotional offer. The Wallonian region financed half of the ‘free’ ticket prices via the publicity firm Promocy, Francophone newspapers ‘La Meuse’ and ‘La Nouvelle Gazette’ reported on Wednesday. According to Wallonian Economy Minister Serge Kubla, the regional government’s contribution was half of the funding used to pay for advertising to promote the Charleroi Airport’s development.
Ryanair’s Chief Executive Michael O’Leary’s latest pronouncement is that he believes revenue from in-flight gaming and gambling could eventually replace the need to charge air fares. “Ultimately entertainment will be where the money is,” he told reporters, while answering questions about his plans to introduce gaming and gambling onboard, probably in 2007. “It would transform ancillary revenues and profits,” he said. “We’ll probably announce a gambling partner (company) in the next 2-3 months.” Ryanair gave away about a quarter of its seats last year and that figure could rise to between 50 and 100 percent depending on how ancillary revenues grow, O’Leary said