Buzz is in the Beetle's opinion the only decent low cost airline. On board information includes useful hints and tips about your destination, what to do and where to stay, and what's more, you can keep it! Yes, you have to pay for your food, but the service is far superior to a carrier such as Ryan Air. From 27 October 2002, Buzz will be flying up to six flights a day from London Stansted to Amsterdam, the land of Vermeer and Amstel beer. Prices start from just £21 one way – so you've got no excuse not to visit one of the most relaxed, vibrant and cosmopolitan cities in Europe. Buzz are also launching their new winter schedule: from 27 October 2002 until 29 March 2003, you can fly to some great winter destinations – and from 14 December, they are reopening their routes to Chambéry and Geneva – great for planning a cheap skiing holiday. See www.buzz.co.uk
Category Archives: enewsletter
Airline News: US Airlines file Chapter 11 Bankruptcy & United may follow
US Airways, the sixth biggest airline in the United States, has filed for bankruptcy protection. Under the so-called Chapter 11 procedure, the company will continue to operate while it attempts to restructure its business and return to financial health, estimated to be the first quarter of 2003.
Last month US Airways pilots agreed to pay cuts amounting to $465m a year, in an effort to keep the company afloat and the company is also attempting to save $1.3bn in annual expenses from labour, suppliers, lenders and creditors.
All of the US airlines have experienced a downturn in air travel since 9-11, but this is the first carrier to file for bankruptcy. Part of the reason is that whilst US Airways did not lose any planes on 11 September, its main hub, Reagan National Airport, near Washington DC, was shut down for three weeks and reopened with only a limited schedule.
United Airlines, the second-ranking US carrier, has warned it may follow rival US Airways in filing for bankruptcy protection. They say that unless it succeeds in cutting its costs, it will also be forced to file for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection from creditors. Interestingly, UA is 55% owned by employees. The firm has given itself 30 days to conclude talks with staff on rebuilding the carrier around a new business plan. Watch this space!
Blaming the problem on a slump in passengers, Chairman and Chief Executive Jack Creighton said: “The world has changed, revenue isn't coming back the way the industry expected. Demand isn't returning, fares remain low, and the industry is grappling with how to respond.”
An Itinerary for Andalusia, Spain
The majority of this trip uses travel by train, with journeys of no more than 4 hours. It takes in Jerez, Seville, Cordoba, Granada, Ronda, Cadiz and Algeciras if you are planning to take the hydrofoil across to Morocco, if you have time and then back to Jerez. Because there are some good flight deals from the UK, you could start the journey in Jerez, or Seville, Granada or even Malaga, which is only about 1½ hours away from Granada.
Buzz http://www.buzzaway.com has cheap flights to Jerez, Easy Jet http://www.easyjet.co.uk flies to both Madrid and Malaga but Ryan Air does not fly to Spain. Otherwise, try Lastminute.com for good airline deals to Southern Spain.) If you intend to continue your stay, you may find it worthwhile to buy a Spain train pass, otherwise, the train fares are reasonable, and Spain's trains are on the whole, very efficient and clean. It's also possible to start this journey from Madrid, if that is where you happen to be: Seville is only 2 ¼ hours from Madrid by the super fast AVE train.
The Beetle has chosen to start in Jerez (pronounced Her-eth). So, what is there to see and do in Jerez? Well, the most obvious thing is to go and taste some sherry – this is, after all, the place where sherry comes from! There are lots of bodegas where you can see how sherry is made and of course sample a drop or too! There's the Alcazar, the palace and the Camera Obscura, and if you like horses, then the Jerez Riding School is for you. There is certainly enough to keep you happy and occupied for a couple of days.
From here, you can take the train from Jerez to Seville, around 1 1/2 hours, if you take an express train, second class adult single: £ 7.50 ($12) or return £15 ($23). This trip can be taken as a day trip or as part of a circuit, taking in Jerez, Seville, Cordoba and Granada.
Seville is a beautiful city, and the capital of Andalucia, with lovely old streets, lots of tapas bars and of course, the famous cathedral, which contains the tomb of Christopher Colombus, well, it may contain the remains of Christopher Colombus, his remains were brought over from Cuba in 1899, and may have got mislaid en route. There are churches, plazas, museums – many places to go and visit to keep a tourist amused, again for a couple of days.
From Seville, it is possible to take the train to Cordoba. The journey takes about 45 minutes and costs around £12 one way or $19. Cordoba is probably most famous for the Mezquita, the Great Mosque, which influenced Arabian-Hispanic architecture for the centuries to come. You will find much evidence of Roman and Moorish history in Cordoba and great food too!
From Cordoba, take the train to Granada, which is the longest journey of this circuit, takes about 4 hours and costs around £ 7.50 ($12) or return £15 ($23) – the bus is quicker and takes 3 hours. No need to say much about Granada, except that you must see the Alhambra, discussed by Matt in this e-newsletter.
The Alhambra Palace is open throughout the year except 1st January and 25th December. Visiting times are 8.30 to 20.00h (1st March to 31st Oct. Last admissions at 19.00) and 9.00 to 18.00h (1st November to end of February). Last admissions are at 17.00. Night visits in the winter season are on Fridays and Saturdays from 20.00 to 22.00h (ticket sales from 19.45 to 21.00h). In the summer on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday from 22.00 to 24.00 (ticket sales from 20.45 to 23.00). However, given the large numbers of visitors, visiting times are assigned in a system of slots, which makes it extremely advisable to book in advance, especially at peak times such as May to October.
If you don't want to risk being disappointed when you turn up, you can make a personal booking through BBV by calling the advance bookings telephone service in Spain, Tel: number 0034 91346 5936/0034 902 224460 or visit www.alhambratickets.com (Spanish only). When you have had your fill of the Alhambra, head for the Allaying, Granada's old hilly Islamic quarter and the Camilla Real or Royal Chapel.
From Granada, take the train to Ronda, a pretty and old historic town that straddles a huge gorge. Apart from the stunning scenery and views, there are plazas to wander around, old palaces and churches. Be warned, though, if you want to make this trip by train, there is only one train a day leaving Granada, otherwise, take the bus. The train takes around 2 1/4 hours and costs about £12 one way or $19. It is also possible to travel by train to Ronda from Malaga (2 hours), Cordoba (2 14/ hours), Madrid (4 ½ hours during the day), and Seville – although from Seville, you have to change trains.
If you are running out of time, then take a bus back from Ronda to Jerez, it takes less than two hours. If you have some more time, then you have two options. Option 1 is to take a bus from Ronda to Cadiz. Cadiz is a charming city, some say possibly the oldest in Europe, (I know, they all say that!), but it is full of history: the Phoenicians arrived in Cadiz in 1100 BC, and do you remember Sir Francis Drake “singeing” the beard of the King of Spain? Things to see and do include the Torre Tavira and its camera Obscura, visiting plazas, the cathedral, and you should take a coastal walk to the Castle of Santa Catalina. The train from Cadiz to Jerez takes about 40 minutes and costs only a few pounds/dollars.
Option 2 is for those who would like to go to Gibraltar or Morocco. The train from Ronda down to Algeciras takes 1 1/2 hours, and costs around £7 or US $10. Algeciras is a port town, on the tip of Spain, overlooking the Straits of Gibraltar. From here, you can make a day excursion to Gibraltar, or use it as a jumping off point to Tangier in Morocco. The hydrofoil to Tangiers takes about 2 ½ hours, is very simple and costs around £17 or $24 one way. From Tangier, it is easy to travel through Morocco by bus and train, to Fez, Meknes, Marrakech and Cassablanca (if you really must – Marrakech is far nicer!) To get back to Jerez from Algeciras, take a bus, which will take around 2 hours.
Cadiz, Seville and Cordoba are all possible contenders for day trips out of Jerez, if you are short on time.
Mutual Aid
Michael is looking for a cheap guesthouse, pension or hostel near Villefrance (halfway b/w Nice and Monaco) in France. He arrives in Nice on September 3rd and leaves on the 28th September and is looking for a cheap place to stay in both Italy and Villefrance. If you can help Michael, please e-mail him.
Need help? Want a travelling buddy or advice about a place or country – want to share something with us – why not visit our Mutual Aid section of the Website: Mutual Aid
New York:
Hello Globies! I hope everyone is having a wonderful summer! I have been told that a lot of you will be travelling and exploring the world, so I am going to CANCEL the August meeting as well. WE WILL HAVE A SEPTEMBER MEETING – STAY TUNED FOR GUEST SPEAKER INFORMATION!! Enjoy the summer and see you all in September! Laurie
New York meetings are held at The Wings Theater, 154 Christopher Street (btw Greenwich St and Washington St), to the right of Crunch Fitness, in the Archive on the first Saturday of each month at 4 pm.
Fave Websites of the Month
Cut price rooms in London do, really exist. Take a look at: www.laterooms.com and also www.lastminute.com do London hotel rooms.
Travel Inn www.travelinn.com have rooms at £74.95 and there is one next to the London Eye – the huge Ferris wheel or tel: 08702 383300.
Travel Quiz
Win a Moon Handbook on Guatemala – see www.moon.com by answering these questions.
The winner of last month's Moon Handbook on Vancouver is Dian Anderson from Canada.
Ontario:
As soon as we get information on the annual barbecue we will let you know what happened!
For information on Ontario meetings, please contact: Svatka Hermanek: shermanek@schulich.yorku.ca or Bruce Weber: tel. 416-203-0911 or Paul Webb: tel. 416-694-8259
Meetings are held on the third Friday of January, March, May, September and November. Usually at the Woodsworth Co-op, Penthouse, 133, Wilton Street in downtown Toronto at 8.00 p.m.
Outbreak of Malaria in Kenya
The Red Cross in Kenya has mobilised 1,000 volunteers to help cope with an outbreak of malaria, which has killed nearly 300 people. The outbreak has affected eight districts in the Rift Valley and the west of the country and follows a period of very heavy rains.
The Red Cross says that more than 150,000 people have contracted malaria since June. Young and old alike have been affected, with the death toll standing at 298. Most of those who have died have simply been unable to reach a hospital quickly enough to get treatment. The outbreak follows several weeks of very heavy rains, but quite why it has turned so deadly is not really known.
Texas:
Texas meetings are usually held at the New Braunfels library, which was recently flooded. Almost all the TV news coverage in New Braunfels took place at the bridge on Common St and the library could be seen, high and dry at the top of the hill. July 13th's meeting saw Mary Ann Hollmig, local coordinator for Elderhostel, as our guest speaker.
The July meeting marked our one-year anniversary here in Texas! (Yippee!) Our group has grown from 6 folks to almost 100!! We are putting together a questionnaire for our members in order to develop a travel information directory that will enhance networking among us “Texas Globies”.
Next meeting: August 10th, A reminder that Texas meetings will start one hour earlier, at 2pm and not 3pm.
Meetings are held at 2pm at the New Braunfels Public Library, 700 E. Common Street in New Braunfels, Texas. The meeting ends at 5 p.m. If you would like to continue travel talk on a more informal basis, we plan to adjourn to the Hoity-Toit, a local New Braunfels establishment. If anybody would like to enquire about meetings or help Christina, please contact her on: texas@globetrotters.co.uk
Mutual Aid
Can you help Caroline? Suffering from information overload, she would love some advice on round the world tickets, volunteer organisations in Australia, New Zealand, and Nepal that don't charge heaps of money to go volunteering, I'm 33 so this seems to exclude at least some of them. Plus I have no degree or profession so that excludes some more. Anyone had any experience of Involvement Volunteers UK, or the overseas arm of BTCV. Plans are to go to Australia in November time, do some volunteer work and then carry on doing the same in New Zealand and Nepal for hopefully one year. Also anyone got any views on how much of the itinerary to plan beforehand. Thanks in advance. Caroline cmather@care4free.net
Need help? Want a travelling buddy or advice about a place or country – want to share something with us – why not visit our Mutual Aid section of the Website: Mutual Aid
London Markets: Brixton
Since the arrival of the West Indian population in London, in the 1950s and 1960s, Brixton Market has been the place for Afro-Caribbean foodstuffs especially along Electric Avenue, while the African and Asian fabrics are also worth a look. Check out the biggest Ghana Yams in London – they're the size of a small child. They say it's Europe's biggest Caribbean foods market and they could be right.
Brixton Market is mainly for ethnic foods, fruits and vegetables. You can find odd merchandise, from wigs, rare records, homeopathic root cures, to plantains and hair extensions. Fish is fresh and well priced, as are flowers and fruits. You can find the latest R&B CDs for a tenner each and fill up your toiletries cabinet for £1 per item.
The market covers several areas of Brixton: Reliance Avenue – a short and narrow covered market running between Brixton Rd and Electric Avenue. Stalls include children's clothes, camera/watch shop and a vacuum cleaner spare parts store! Brixton Station Rd – big outdoor market mainly selling second hand clothes and bric-a-brac with some electric goods of uncertain origin. Electric Avenue – the original market that was once protected by extended awnings running the length of the street. Mainly fruit and veg and clothes stores. Granville Arcade – large covered market with an eclectic mix of shops including a tattoo studio, cafes, Caribbean bakery, several fishmongers and all kinds of unsavoury trays of animal produce. Not for sensitive veggies! Station Arcade – small selection of stores leading up the druggies favourite haunt, Brixton railway station. Market Row – Another big covered market with a large selection of stores including the superb Eco Pizzas and Cafe Pushkar. Tunstall Rd – New art market opposite Brixton tube.
Just a word of warning, Brixton is a great and lively place during the day, but late at night, it can be a little scary. Be careful with your possessions at all times whilst in any market.
Open Monday to Saturday 9am to 6pm, except Wednesday when it's open 9am to 3pm.
Next month: Covent Garden market
Come To Beautiful Rabaul – East New Britain Province, Papua New Guinea by Steven Mago
When on a holiday to Papua New Guinea is must-see is beautiful Rabaul, a town well known for its native Baining fire dancers, live volcanoes, pristine wreck and reef diving, caving and above all, friendly local people.
The town was half buried during a twin volcanic eruption in 1994, but today, Rabaul has re-emerged as a tourist destination with a difference. There are few places where the dramatic consequences of the contrasting moods of nature can be experienced so intimately.
Sightseeing in Rabaul is memorable. From the near airport at Tokua, the drive takes you along a narrow road winding its way around the glittering waters of the Gazelle Peninsula, through coconut plantations, villages of thatched huts surrounded by colourful flowerbeds and tropical fruit trees that look out over calm waters.
Steven was born in PNG but now lives in Sydney Australia. He can be contacted by email to help with any queries on PNG or for ideas and help visiting the country.
Jacqui's Diary: Guatemala and Mexico
Greetings from Antigua, again!
When last I wrote I was in San Cristóbal las Casas and just started on my trip through Mexico, and here I am ready to launch in to the second section of this trip as we leave for Honduras tomorrow, and the last of the Mayan ruins in our itinerary. Strangely I am not all 'ruined' out yet and am quite looking forward to seeing the temples and stones of Copan on Monday.
The last three weeks have been excellent fun. My lads have been good value and we are still getting on well so that has helped to make the time positive. And the Ruta Maya took us through some of the loveliest parts of southern Mexico. We detoured down to the Guatemalan border, in Chiapas, to explore a new road and visit the lesser known sites of Yaxilan and Bomampac and they remain two of my favourites due to the smaller size and the exquisite carvings and paint work there. Camping for about half the time, we cooked some excellent meals and stayed in lovely places. Palenque was made more accessible by our excellent guide, Ernesto, and Uxmal was made worthwhile due to the fact that we missed most of the tourist hordes by being there as the site opened. Chichén Itzá wa huge and very touristy but very interesting. We then retired to the beaches of the Caribbean, south of Cancun, for a couple of days. Swimming in the turquoise waters there was lovely. Throughout this time the food remained good and people friendly. Our last ruins in Mexico were those at Tulum, a small site built on the edge of the Caribbean and for the worship of the dawn. I also went for a cavern snorkel nearby – fun and blessedly cool after the heat and humidity of the area.
We crossed into Belize with the minimum of fuss and headed straight to Caye Caulker for two days of sun, sea and relaxation. Although I managed to get sunburnt and not to see a manatee (dugong family of sea-cow), we had a fun time snorkelling, watching dolphins and wandering around the small town. Back to the mainland and straight out of Belize city. A short stop at the small but lovely zoo, getting drenched in a tropical downpour, and then to San Ignacio for two nights. During that time I did another cavern tour – beautiful colours and formations – in a canoe, and we all worried about a sudden closing of the Guatemalan/Belize border due to a demand for back pay by the ex-paramilitary forces who had blocked the roads in and around the Petén area (i.e.: where we were headed). Thankfully it was all settled quickly and we lost no time but the prospect or retracing out steps through the north of Belize and most of the parts of Mexico that we had already traversed was not a welcome one.
Into Guatemala and the Petén area we had mid-summer in Tikal, perhaps the most important and largest Mayan site in Central America. Unfortunately the sun did not cooperate and show us how all the buildings were built according to the seasons and light directions but it was a brilliant mornings ramble. I think I have climbed more stairs in the last three weeks than I have climbed in the last three years! We saw lots of wildlife and had another excellent guide. Part of the film 'Return of the Jedi' was filmed there and it was amazing to be high over the canopy top looking into the greenness and seeing structure over a thousands years old poking up through the trees. Wonderful! From there we went to a place called Finca Ixobal, for lovely food and a chance to rest and relax before Antigua.
From there it was a straight drive to Antigua and more great views of the volcanoes that surround this town. I introduced my friends to a cafe that served eggs benedict and we all indulged in good coffee and other delights to be found here. Our travels also allowed me to revisit Chichicastenango and Panjachal and from there revisit my friends in San Pedro. I have revelled in the chance to feel at home here as I know where things are and how the system works – but from here on in it will be new territory.
The next four weeks promise to be full of adventure and new experiences as we traverse the lesser known and less touristy countries of Central America. Costa Rica is perhaps the exception to that but to me it will be all new. The other change will be the addition of a new member to our group, a British lass who is due to arrive today. She will be my roommate for the rest of the trip so …fingers crossed we get on. There will be no more camping or cooking off the truck though, as there are few places that suitable between here and Panama City so it is hotels and restaurants all the way. Should any of you get the inclination, a real letter would find me in Panama City at the hotel address on my list and I would love to hear from you.
Thanks Jacqui and keep us posted! If anyone would like to contact Jacqui, her e-mail is: jacquitrotter@yahoo.com
What have you seen on your travels? Drop a line to the Beetle! Beetle@globetrotters.co.uk
More Funny Signs
In the lobby of a Moscow hotel across
from a Russian Orthodox monastery:
YOU ARE WELCOME TO VISIT THE CEMETERY WHERE FAMOUS RUSSIAN
AND SOVIET COMPOSERS, ARTISTS, AND WRITERS ARE BURIED DAILY
EXCEPT THURSDAY.
Hotel catering to skiers, Austria:
NOT TO PERAMBULATE THE CORRIDORS IN THE HOURS OF
REPOSE IN THE BOOTS OF ASCENSION.
Taken from a menu, Poland:
SALAD A FIRM'S OWN MAKE; LIMPID RED BEET SOUP
WITH CHEESY DUMPLINGS IN THE FORM OF A FINGER; ROASTED DUCK
LET LOOSE; BEEF RASHERS BEATEN IN THE COUNTRY PEOPLE'S
FASHION.
Supermarket, Hong Kong:
FOR YOUR CONVENIENCE, WE RECOMMEND COURTEOUS,
EFFICIENT SELF-SERVICE.
From the “Soviet Weekly”:
THERE WILL BE A MOSCOW EXHIBITION OF ARTS BY
15,000 SOVIET REPUBLIC PAINTERS AND SCULPTORS. THESE WERE
EXECUTED OVER THE PAST TWO YEARS.
Write in and tell us your funny sign! Drop a line to the Beetle! E-mail the Beetle.
Visit from Tanzania to the UK by Brian Currie and Sherie
This is a tale of how Trade Aid's Tanzanian Manager perceived the UK on his recent and first trip over to England. Trade Aid is a UK charity whose aim is to create sustainable employment in a particularly lovely part of southern Tanzania, Mikindani, near Mtwara.
On the 14th June, after a long wait, our beloved Mikindani leader, Mr Dennis Willy Massoi, arrived in England. After Mtwara International Airport, he looked totally shell-shocked at Heathrow, particularly when it was pointed out that he was only in Terminal 4, the smallest! A quick excursion onto the M25 was enough for him to decide that he didn't want to drive in England (know the feeling?). Two hours later, after an M3 experience, he was dropped off in the New Forest at my home. He did notice that there seemed to be more animals (horses, cows, pigs and deer) running around than in Mtwara area.
That night he was taken to the Salisbury Bandari Club, (also known as The Chicago Rock Café) which was full of drunken ladies dancing on tables and celebrating Hen Nights. Dennis said it would never happen in Mikindani. On Saturday, suitably attired in an England football shirt, Dennis watched the England-Denmark game in a pub in Salisbury and seemed to enjoy the 3-0 win as much as the locals. After a few days with Jacob Amuli in Taunton, Dennis returned to work at Trade Aid. Several exciting things had been lined up for him, but probably the most interesting was the visit to Tony Herbert's apiary in the Chalk Valley. Clad in spacesuits, we were still very nervous of the thousands of bees who seemed oddly irritated at us opening the hive and removing their honey. It is hoped in the future to have a beekeeping trial project in Mikindani under the supervision of Tony.
Very, very early on Friday morning, we collected Dennis from Salisbury, along with some former Trade Aid volunteers, and headed for Stonehenge, to watch the sunrise over the stones on the Summer Solstice. Dennis had probably never seen 22,000 people all in one place before, and especially not the eclectic group that gathers there each year, with music, dancing, drums and fire eaters, children, dogs, colourful costumes and some rather dubious practices, all benignly watched over by the Wiltshire Constabulary. English weather was true to form and the sun didn't so much rise as ooze into the lowering clouds. When we felt that Dennis had seen enough of the spectacle, we walked the mile or so back to the car through the teeming rain, and headed for Salisbury, and the England – Brazil match.
After another Friday night out boogying, it was all building up to the big Saturday night event at Burgate. We had around 100 guests who enjoyed a marvellous African Buffet by Pompi Parry, after listening to talks by Tony Herbert and Len Coleman. Ian and Nicola, recently returned from Tanzania, were there, together with many ex-volunteers and visitors to Mikindani. The highlight was Dennis explaining what he thought of England! Apparently he had been worried at Mrs Brian's absence. “Who will do the cooking?”
The answer was Mr Tesco, convenience food department. These totally unhealthy items, pizza, steak pies, fish and chips, Indian takeaways, combined with those marvellous machines ' the Microwave and the Dishwasher had him wondering “why on earth does anyone in England get married?” Good point Dennis, I'm sure there is an answer to this tricky question, but we'll have to think about it. An excellent evening raised about £850, which will be spent entirely in environmental projects in Mikindani.
On the Sunday Dennis went up to London and saw all the main sights from the London Eye. On Monday he did a bus tour to have a closer look, Buck House, Houses of Parliament, Big Ben etc etc, all caught his eye. By around 4pm though he'd had enough of the culture and was to be found in a pub near Trafalgar square. Before he returned to Tanzania on the Tuesday, we asked what had made the biggest impression on him, was it the Stonehenge Solstice, Heathrow, Houses of Parliament etc? None of these impressed him as much as the Salisbury B & Q! So many tools and building materials under one roof, he couldn't believe it.
For more information about Trade Aid, volunteers and their work, please visit their website www.mikindani.com
Have you got a tale to tell??
If you have a travellers tale that your aching to tell. Then why not visit the “Travel Sized Bites” section of the Website and share it with the world. Travel Sized Bites
The Western Balkans by Sarah Guise
Sarah, an Aussie from Canberra has sent an update on her European adventures. She says: I have spent a few weeks travelling by myself in Italy, Slovenia, Croatia, Bosnia and Hungary. In Italy I went to Venice, Florence, Siena, Lucca and Sam Gimignano (which I still cannot spell) and Trieste. Loved Venice, as you know, and other highlight was the Tuscan hills outside of San Gim. I could have sat there watching the seasons change, the hills are so enchanting. Went ambling through grape vines and olive trees for that authentic experience. Will be looking for a job squashing grapes in a small Tuscan village after I have finished working on a ferry in Venice.
If you are ever in the region it is extremely worthwhile to do a little circuit around the Balkans, where the hordes of tourists that populate Italy have not yet penetrated. Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia is a quaint old town with a wonderful range of cafes and beautiful old buildings among the willow trees on the river bank. A day trip away is Bled, home of my favourite castle for this trip. Perched on a cliff overlooking a deep green lake with an ancient monastery on an island, sheltered by the surrounding Alps.
Then I caught the ferry from Rijeka in Croatia down the coast to Dubrovnik. Slept on the deck with the smell of salt air and the warm breeze to lull me to sleep. The coastline is stark, with weather bleached rocks and sparse vegetation, the darker green of coastal conifers. And the water is so clear azure at the shore and a deep blue as though someone spilt ink where it's deep. Wandered the old town of Dubrovnik, enclosed by fully in tact city walls and escaped the heat to an island 10 minutes away, with rocky beaches and a deserted fort to clamber in and imagine where the old cannons would have been fired from the crumbling walls.
The hot sun on the ground creating that smell of dried leaves and warm earth that is so intoxicating and evocative of summer. A chance encounter with some English lasses – the Beetle! – (and a few bottles of wine) and I was off to Sarajevo. A contender for my favourite city in Europe. Certainly the most interesting if not the most beautiful. Minarets and church spires share the skyline and the architecture tells the stories of all those different periods of history from Turks to Austrians right up until the recent war. Shrapnel marks still scar the pavement and buildings are pockmarked with bullet wounds, and yet the cafe lifestyle is thriving and thelocals delights in strolling up and down the pedestrian walks each balmy summers night.
The tunnel museum tells the story of the tunnel, the only link between Sarajevo and free territory during the siege, and locals will tell you their stories of how they lived during the war. A place with a long and interesting history currently transforming and adapting itself once more. Next stop was Zagreb for my birthday. A stately city with many fine buildings and yet more cafe lifestyle. Friends joined me and we celebrated my 103rd birthday by watching some crazy French street performers doing a comical version of the magic flute, complete with soprano and brass ensemble and full audience participation.
The other highlight of Zagreb was the annual animated film festival, for something a bit different.Another long un-air-conditioned train trip later and I was in Budapest to meet another friend, wondering how many times I would have to revise which is my favourite city in Europe. Rightly compared with Prague, the most beautiful feature is the palace, castle and parliament buildings along the river, that along with the bridges are beautifully lit at night. We went to a small town on the Danube bend and climbed to a castle before catching the boat back down the river to Budapest. Spent a lovely day at the hot baths, and then enjoying a long meal on the river front as the sun set on another beautiful summers day. And now I am in London.
The last four weeks of this trip will see me dashing around the UK, catching up with friends and family. I will also go to Scotland, having been unsuccessful in obtaining a visa for Russia as well as to Ireland for a few days for a South American truck reunion and to see some more family.
If you'd like to contact Sarah, her details are: sarahguise@hotmail.com
Three Gorges Dam – see it quick!
If you want to see the Three Gorges (the Qutang, Wuxia and the Xiling) before they are lost for ever – as a result of the controversial dam project on the Yangtze, you should aim to see them before November 1st 2002. After this date, there will be a diversion around the Three Gorges and the Yangtze will not be navigable until after the flooding has taken place in 2003.
Parsley Island – What a Spat!
In last month's e-newsletter, we talked about Spain demanding Gibraltar back from the British, and how odd this was when they themselves had two territories in Morocco, (Ceuta and Melilla) that the Moroccans would like back.
You may have noticed in the news that a couple of weeks ago, on July 11th, a small band of Moroccan soldiers landed on the unoccupied Spanish owned, but jointly claimed Island of Perejil (Spanish) or Leila (Arabic) or Parsley (English) – unoccupied but for goats, that is, and just 25 metres from the Moroccan shoreline.
They set up tents and put a Moroccan flag. The arrival was said to be to celebrate the King of Morocco's wedding. About a week after that, Spanish troops arrived on the island, escorted by full naval battleships and gained control from the Moroccan army. Now the Spanish troops have withdrawn from the island and all is well again: foreign ministers of Morocco and Spain have finalised a US-brokered (the EU was snubbed in helping here) resolution to their dispute over the Mediterranean island of Perejil. Although both countries claim the island, Spain says it had an understanding that neither side would erect a permanent camp there. The return to the status quo does not mean that Morocco has given up its claim to sovereignty of Pereji.
Morocco was also hoping to take the opportunity to talk about all the issues of contention between the two countries. These include the Western Sahara, clandestine immigration and fishing, as well as the future of the Spanish sovereign enclaves of Ceuta and Melilla. Spain said it was willing to talk about anything except the enclaves.