Philippe continues his tale of diving and exploring Curacao with his family.

Harry and his wife, Ann-Marie, have done all in their power to help us achieving the best diving around the island. They have lent us all equipment necessary including tanks to do some shore diving around the island and God knows that, around Curacao, there are several luscious beaches (e.g., “Klein Knipbaai”, “Playa Porto Marie” or “Playa Jeremi”) with astounding coral reef diving, down to quite extreme depths (that is, if you want) and very good facilities…for the after-dive relaxation.

The club boats have also taken us to some very good diving places not far from the hotel. One of these places was called the “Mushroom Forest” and, when diving there, we had the feeling of wandering in the middle of a forest of giant mushrooms, except that they were coral formations under which we could often glimpse lobsters and moray eels.

Easy Divers’ philosophy is based on the following principle: once you have established your credentials, you are free to dive the way you want, under your sole responsibility. This philosophy, in addition to the boat taking you to excellent spots, to the skipper giving you a good pre-dive briefing and to the boat picking you up at the end of your dive wherever you are (i.e. you do not have to navigate back to the boat), was what European divers like us needed to do exciting dives.

The club was also offering all expected facilities and more, like nitrox, a locker to store away your equipment to dry, a bar on the beach nearby, showers for after the dive, all books necessary to identify what we had seen (a special mention about Paul Humann’s and Ned Deloach’s “The Reef Set” books which is probably one of the best books ever made to precisely identify what you are going to see or what you have seen: definitely a must have!) and refreshing fruit salads to pick from while discussing your dives with your buddies, lying on deck chairs.

Furthermore, the diving club was conveniently located on the beach of a resort (the Sunset Waters Beach Resort) which was providing very good accommodation, food and all other amenities to make the rest of the trip enjoyable, including a casino, a swimming pool and a mini-golf. There were even some activities organised for the kids like movies, sea kayak trips or water-polo tournaments so they definitely have also been able to make the best out of their stay there.

Apart from Park Cristoffel which is supposed to offer some very good hiking, Curacao also offered a few interesting things to see on the dry over-the-water side of the island:

· Willemstad (the capital) made for an interesting tour with its Dutch inspired houses, its floating rotating bridge, its floating market (as nothing grows on Curacao, except Aloe Vera which has been cultivated there for a very long time, all fruits and vegetables are imported from the nearby Venezuela);

· A South-African Boer has opened an ostrich farm, which gave us the opportunity to discover the life of ostriches and even to taste them in the form of juicy steaks and sausages;

· The Kura Hollanda Museum about the Black Culture and Holocaust was also a highly interesting moment in the trip as it enabled us to understand more about the history of Black people in the Caribbean islands and in the USA, with, among other things, an outstanding highlight on the slave trade;

· Last, Curacao Seaquarium displayed some very interesting tanks and creatures, taking advantage of the sea close vicinity to display, among other things, nurse and lemon sharks, tarpons, groupers and rays in almost natural environment with a possibility for divers to interact.

All in all, a very pleasant trip to “one of the best kept secrets of the Caribbean islands” which I would definitely recommend to divers travelling with their families.

If you would like to contact Philippe about diving or info on Curacao, his e-mail is: philippe.sigal@bnpparibas.com

When I was a little girl and the trees seemed too big for me I was first taken to Red Square by my farther. It is a wonderful feeling to realize how beautiful and different could be the Country you live in. Being about five years old I was lucky to have captured this sensation and later on it only became deeper.

I remember looking at the glowing Kremlin stars and feeling that I was in the center of the whole world, of the universe. I am a student of Moscow University now and I still have this feeling. When twilight comes the Kremlin stars are the first to be seen, and only then Mars, Venus and the North Star.

I have always adored Red Square (Red in Old Russian meant beautiful). Being the symbol of the Country, a famous sight it is at the same time the place that helps you to remember where are your roots and that you belong here. It is amazing how one place could embody so many ancient monuments and edifices from different epochs: from the 16th up to the 20th centuries.

Faces of Moscow are many and various and your vision of the city depends on the way you look at it.

To the left of Red Square leads off Varvarka Street. If you happen round in it, the close company of the golden domes of ancient Churches, the Old English Court, the Chambers of Romanov boyars of handsome originality will let you feel a merchant of the epoch of Ivan the Terrible, dressed in long red caftan and wearing boots of coloured leather with silver lining at the heels.

And if you shall go a way down you are sure to be enshrouded into a special patriarchal atmosphere, which the stones of this district – Zamoskvorechye (Beyond the River district) – still breathe. In the 16th century this territory was used to grow fruit and vegetables for the Tsar’s table and for a long time it was settled only by poor peasants and craftsmen. This area commands a beautiful view of the Kremlin. The Kremlin… here I recall one story.

Some time ago I worked with Italian tourists and we were exploring the center of the city. After we had seen the Kremlin, which took about a couple of hours, one of them asked me: “Look, we’ve been here nearly all day long, we’ve seen so many churches and gardens and I am dying to see one more famous place. Could you tell me where is on Earth that very Kremlin, please? Where is that building? ”. I could not help laughing. He was asking me to show exactly what he has just seen. I told him so. Kremlin is not just one building, but a huge complex of fortification walls, towers, churches and gardens.

The highest point of the city – Vorobievy Hills (Sparrow Hills) is the sight for the main building of Moscow State University founded in the times of Tsarina Elizaveta. The observation platform situated on the same place commands a splendid view of entire Moscow. On a good day the city is laid out before you like an opened book: the Olympic dome, the home to the Olympic Games 1980s is the first thing that strikes the eye. The seven famous skyscrapers seen from afar give an original look to the city silhouette and emphasise its radial-circular layout.

Your ideas of turning into an aristocrat for a while are likely to take shape in Prechistenka Street. It preserves all of the stages in the city’s history. There are white stone chambers, noblemen’s mansions and luxurious houses for rent created with outstanding taste. So never mind you might notice this dignity look on the faces of your companions – they must have come under the street’s spell.

On a fine summer day through the opened windows there might even seep out the sounds of the grand piano and young ladies’ great babble of conversation about preparing for the ball.

Every street has its own story to tell you. You just have to listen to it and keep your mind open on things. Each of us can find something of interest here.

From my mind a peculiar feature of Moscow is that this city maintaining eminent architectural ensembles of the bygone days manages to mix it with pure European signs of human achievements – prestigious hotels and fashionable restaurants, luxurious clubs and extravagant boutiques, which only adds a special flavour to it.

The title of this text holds certainly true of Moscow. The city is so huge that you may live in it your whole life and still not know it, still learn something new about it every day. But this is the stuff of life – to learn and let yourself be dazzled by the new, isn’t it?

Katia says: “I am studying foreign languages at Moscow University and I'm enjoying it very much as my profession is connected with people – that's why I've been an interpreter, tourist guide. And I love communicating with people from different countries, helping them to learn more about Russia, its history and culture”.

For more information, or to contact Katia, please e-mail her on: engmaria@mtu-net.ru

Most visitors to Cape Town arrive by air and land at Cape Town's International Airport. The International terminal has recently been upgraded and facilities are good. The airport is about a twenty minute drive from the centre of Cape Town along the N2 freeway. For those brave people who like to drive themselves it is easy to hire a car as most car hire firms are represented at the airport.

Anybody who is used to driving on the right is in for a surprise. We don't! The Brits taught us to drive on the left. Please remember this as you could find yourself in trouble on the roads. BEWARE of the taxis. They drive like maniacs, stop anywhere and don't stop at traffic lights. The roads in and around town are good and well sign posted. If you know where you are going you should not get lost. That's easily said, I still get lost sometimes. You know us men, we don't like asking for directions.

Cape Town has three major access roads to get you in and out of town. The N1 which takes you to the north and the suburbs of Parow, Bellville and onto Paarl and the winelands if you keep on going. The N2, takes you along De Waal drive down Settlers way to the airport and Somerset West and if you keep going to Mosselbay via Sir Lowry's Pass. To avoid peak traffic do not drive along these roads from about 4.30 onwards in the afternoons. The third is the main road which takes you south through all the suburbs of Cape Town to Simonstown. Plenty of traffic lights, stop start driving and pedestrians. For shoppers there are some large shopping centres to visit.

Century City (Canal Walk) is the biggest and is found just off the N1 highway about 5 kilometres out of town. Here there are hundreds of shops to browse through. Do yourself a favour and wear your walking shoes when visiting Canal Walk. You will walk for miles and are sure to get sore feet. However, there are many restaurants and coffee shops to visit when you get tired, trust me you WILL! It is enormous with two levels and two shopping malls on each level. A shop-a-holics dream come true! While you are there take a boat ride on the canal and visit the bird hide on the island.

Cape Town itself has plenty to see and do. If you want to avoid driving, take a bus to the waterfront and visit the shops restaurants and pubs there. Many of the larger chain stores you find at Canal walk (Century City) are also represented at the Waterfront. The V & A Waterfront as it is named is part of Table Bay Harbour and is still used as a working harbour. Like boats? Take a cruise. Fancy a trip to Robben Island? They also leave from the harbour.

Cape Town has many places of interest within walking distance of the city centre.

I will list a few below.

· Museum and Planetarium found in the Gardens.

· The Gardens and the Art Gallery.

· Oceanarium in the Waterfront.

· The Castle of the Cape of Good Hope found close to the railway

station.

· Green Market Square with its permanent flea market.

· St Georges Cathedral.

Cape Town is relatively safe with most areas being monitored by surveillance cameras. There are however, those who will try their luck, so please keep all jewellery and valuables hidden under your clothing. It is not safe to walk around by yourself at night. It's Ok at the Waterfront, but not anywhere else. If you are driving keep your doors locked at all times and do not leave valuables where they can be seen, even when you are in the car.

The South African currency is Rand and cents. A British pound is the equivalent of about R16.00 and a US dollar about R10.50. If you are visiting Cape Town in summer, bring lots of beachwear and a hat. The sun is very dangerous. On the beaches use plenty of sunblock to prevent bad sunburn. Be careful of the rip tides on some of the beaches if you decide to have a swim.

Enjoy your trip. See you soon!

Geoff Fairman is the editor and publisher of Banker's Oldboy's Ezine, a free publication posted via email to your home computer weekly. To read more articles on Cape Town visit:

Brerrabbit-subscribe@topica.com

Darrell from Washington, DC, wrote in: “someone who visited both Prague and Bratislava before Czechoslovakia split should get credit for two countries. Likewise, chalk up two countries if someone visited East and West Germany separately before 1990”.

Del from Texas says: “Easy, it counts if the part that split was visited”.

Henry from Hawaii says: No, one could count two countries if both Prague and Bratislava were visited before the split. It is the territory that counts since it is pretty much the same regardless of who owns it at any given time. A purist would argue that it would require visitation when the current state was in operation and one could agree with that view in order to keep the counting as standard as possible.

Nick from London wrote in to say: I liked the What Counts as having visited a Country? section in the newsletter this month. Years ago I visited a couple of bits of Yugoslavia, and I would note that as several countries now.

Our webmaster Paul sent in a link of the official ISO country list, for worldly travellers to tick ‘em off! Take a look at http://www.iso.ch/iso/en/prods-services/iso3166ma/02iso-3166-code-lists/index.html

This month’s question, from Nick from London is: I would be interested if people think it counts if you have visited a country for a stopover.

Greetings one and all. This message is coming to you from Lusaka, the nerve centre of quiet, peaceful and more or less desolate Zambia, a Southern African country just north of Zimbabwe. We landed in Zambia somewhat by accident. You see, it all started at the Zimbabwean border not so long ago.

As we left South Africa with our hearts warmed by the hospitality of its people, particularly the Bekkers and Viersters (noted in prior emails), and entered Zim a little wary due to the much-publicized conflict arising out of its recent elections, we were greeted by a friendly Zimbabwean border official who asked whether we desired a single or multiple-entry visa. We weighed the pro's and con's: Sali, the nest-builder that she is, decided it best that we pass through Zim as quickly as possible, lest we lost our opportunity to build our future nest in a post-election squabble; I, the budget-minded one, found it morally reprehensible that we might waste funds on the more expensive multiple-entry option when we had no intention of returning to Zimbabwe. So, for differing reasons, we found common ground and unanimously opted for a single-entry visa. The border official dutifully completed the paperwork in triplicate and, upon completion, asked our plans in Zimbabwe.

We came for two reasons, we told him: to see Victoria Falls, one of the seven natural wonders of the world, and to relax on Lake Kariba, considered a gem of Southern Africa. With great pleasure, our friend pulled out a map of Zimbabwe and outlined possible routes. Only then did we realize that the easiest way to go from Vic Falls to Lake Kariba is to transit through little-known Zambia. In response to this geography lesson, we decided it best to purchase the multiple-entry visa and go along the suggested itinerary. Oh, so sorry, we were told, but he had already completed the paperwork for our single-entry document. Oh well, live and learn, we figured, and we left for Victoria Falls not entirely sure of our future plans.

Vic Falls is all it was cracked up to be: a roaring waterfall of immense power that kicks up mist which engulfs the verdant foliage and all nearby tourists; high above the spray, a rainbow arches atop the chasm that forms the Falls. Noting that the surrounding greenery enjoys sunshine and water in abundance, Sali confided that if she were a plant, Vic Falls is where she would like to live.

During our stay at the Falls we learned that Lake Kariba, bounded not only by Zimbabwe but Zambia as well, is equally beautiful on the Zambian side–though not nearly as prepared for tourism. Bidding goodbye to our newfound friend–the country of Zimbabwe–we sought the cool blue waters of Lake Kariba from the Zambian coast.

As for Zimbabwe and the oft-discussed strife, we found tension in the air but nothing more. Upon discussion with whites and blacks, we found distrust of the government and concern for the future by many. But we also found great pride among its peoples and appreciation for the beauty of the land by all of its inhabitants. While South Africans may decry the happenings in Zimbabwe, Zimbabweans will quickly point out that the number of violent attacks on Zimbabwean farmers at the peak of violent times is surpassed tenfold by the number of attacks on city goers in Johannesburg at any time of the year.

There is famine in Zimbabwe, or so we had heard, so we stocked up on dry goods before we entered the country, only to be greeted by well-stocked markets at the major stopping points. There is a shortage of petrol in Zimbabwe, we were told, so we entered the country with three full jerry cans. Admittedly, the petrol was of pure quality, causing our car to spit and sputter uphill, but petrol was abundant and cost us half what it cost in South Africa. Indeed, we did not use our stock of petrol until we entered serene, under-developed Zambia, where fuel costs three times what it costs in Zim.

In sum, our tour of Zimbabwe shot bullets through the misperceptions we had heard about the country, leaving holes in the blanket of fears we clung to upon arrival. Of course, that is not to say that the trouble is over in Zimbabwe (or anywhere in Africa, for that matter). As reverberations of empowerment spread through this continent, Zimbabwe and the rest of Africa will surely experience strife as each country settles into the foundations of its nationhood.

Okay, I'll get off my soapbox and move on to telling you about Zambia. After a few days on Lake Kariba, where I honed my fire-building techniques, Sali washed the dickens out of our clothes and we both improved our butterfly stroke at the camp's swimming pool, we set out for a campsite along the mighty Zambezi (Africa's fourth largest river behind the Nile, the Congo, and the River Niger). Driving as far as we could go on public land, we found the perfect spot, where the Zambezi meets the Chongwe River and wildlife abounds from both sides.

Entering this idyllic retreat, I half-expected to see a distinguished-looking man in a white three-piece suit and his half-pint sidekick welcome us to Fantasy Island. Instead, Ann and Bruce, a couple of expats from South Africa living their dreams in the untamed bush of Zambia as managers of the Chongwe River Lodge, directed us to our campsite along the water. Outfitted with a private ablution block (i.e., open-air toilet and shower, each fenced in with thatched walls) and a campsite on the bank of the river, our temporary home could best be described as designed for rustic comfort. The plumbing in the toilet worked great and the shower was prepared upon our request by a worker who carted, via the use of a wheelbarrow, tubs of hot water which he then poured into a 60-litre drum hoisted overhead through the use of a pulley system.

Nocturnal sounds at the campsite included chirping birds, grunting hippos, screeching baboons and an occasional fish breaking the water's surface to feed. Shining a flashlight across the placid river, one can see brawny hippos powering through the water and the creepy, glowing red eyes of crocodiles. In daylight, elephants traipse through the camp, tugging at trees and ingesting all the shrubbery they can stuff into their hungry mouths. Fiercely herbivorous, elephants eat about 200 kilograms per day (almost 450 pounds) of leaves, branches and roots. In the hot sun, hippos remain submerged in the water up to their eyeballs for most of the day, bobbing up for a periodic breath, and bounce on and off the land sometime after nightfall.

As for our interactions with the elephants, they were nothing short of spectacular. Literally, they walked among us. Sali and I were drinking our morning coffee one day when one slurped from the river not ten feet from us. The only danger with these generally gentle beasts is if you enter their comfort zone (probably about 35 feet in radius) without permission. After a while, it becomes not too hard to read the animal, so it is unlikely to be confused by its inclinations. However, I did mistake a never-seen-before elephant with the one that Sali and I had met over coffee. That exchange turned out to be a frightful one for yours truly, for when the elephant found me, a stranger, entering his space without proper invitation, he quickly turned from mild-mannered leaf eater to severely agitated wild beast.

Looking like he was going to stomp me like a grape, this 2-ton wild animal charged. Maybe it was because of my kindly demeanour, maybe it was because of my devilish charm, or maybe it was because I ran like hell. Whatever the reason, the big guy decided I wasn't worth it and stopped after a long moment, and I quickly made my way to the loo.

Oh, I nearly forget about Silkie, the domesticated Antelope that Bruce and Ann have taken under their wing ever since its mother discarded it at birth due to a cleft hoof. In the bush, any deformity is viewed as too costly to the rest of the group, and the animal is left to fend for itself. But thanks to Ann and Bruce and modern medicine, a vet repaired Silkie’s hoof. However, having become habituated to humans, she likes our company and sticks to the campsite. Silkie was kind enough to chaperone us on all of our nature walks.

Tourism is growing rapidly in Zambia and everyone has their finger on the pulse of dollars coursing through the veins of the tourist trade. On our second day, the local chieftainess (yes, a woman–duly elected by her tribes people), made an impromptu visit on the lodge to spy on its developments. We don't know the business arrangement exactly, but we do know that she leased the land for 99 years and keeps a watch on it now and then. When the chieftainess arrives, everyone jumps to attention, bowing and scraping as much as possible.

After several days walking along the Zambezi, talking to the elephants and searching for hippos breaking the surface of the water, we bid farewell to Ann and Bruce–a more amiable couple you will be hard to find–and headed for the somewhat bustling capital of Zambia, Lusaka, which is where we are now.

Michael and his wife have been driving through Africa since March 2002.

Meeting news from our branches around the world.

7^th September 2002 London meeting Review by Padmassana

We had two excellent speakers who both captured the essence of the countries they talked about with some fantastic photographs.

Our first speaker was Marion Bull who showed us the N’Afjer plateau in the Algerian Sahara. This area is the site of the world’s oldest rock paintings, some dating back 12,000 years. Marion explained that although UNESCO protects the paintings, many have been damaged over the last few years by Arabic graffiti, and as there have been few tourists to this area, the government has not protected them. The slides of the rock paintings Marion showed us depicted prehistoric scenes of long extinct animals, pastoral scenes of grazing cattle, newer pictures of what appeared to be a boat and fishermen and paintings of chariots being pulled by animals.

This area of Algeria is also the site of The Forest of Stones, which look like streets and stretch for 35 miles. These “streets” of rock have spectacular pinnacles, which Marion said were difficult to photograph due to the shadows cast by neighbouring towers of rock. But Marion did these wonderful formations justice with her colourful slides. We were lucky that Marion was able to show us these wonderful images, as when she was leaving the area her plane had a little mishap, and she had to spend another night in her sleeping bag on the runway tarmac.

Our second speaker was Julian Webster who treated us to some glorious images of India. These included pictures of the Ganges high in the Himalayas, right down to India’s southern tip, showing us a lifeguard complete with a pointy “Go Faster” swim hat! We saw colourful images of religious India including temples in Kerala, Buddhists in the north, Christian nuns and Oracles who treat the local people with their magic. Julian moved onto India at work, from the washing Ghats in Bombay (Mumbai), where we saw clothes being beaten clean on stones, Fish markets, Railway station bookshops with English sounding names and even the office of “The World Famous Sex Therapist”! Julian finished with some of the classical images of India such as holy cows and the Taj Mahal.

On Saturday 5^th October, Eamonn Gearon will give a talk called “Walking to Siwa – and then staying there!” This features solo camel trekking in the Libyan desert and life in the Egyptian oasis of Siwa, past present and future. This is an extract from just one of Eamonn's expeditions in North Africa – he is already planning his next to Sudan/Liberia.

After the break, Tahir Shah will give a talk entitled “In search of King Solomon’s Mines.” Tahir is the third generation of his family to become obsessed with King Solomon's mines. He travelled to Ethiopia to a remote cliff face monastery where visitors are pulled up by rope, the ruined castles of Gondar, to rock-hewn churches of Lalibela, an illegal gold mine, and the hardest leg to the accursed mountain of Tullu Wallel, where legend says the shafts to the entrance to King Solomon's mines. All class competition for Rider Haggard's classic adventure novel!

London meetings are held at The Church of Scotland, Crown Court, behind the Fortune Theatre in Covent Garden at 2.30pm the first Saturday of each month. There is no London meeting in August, but we will be back on Saturday 1^st September. For more information, you can contact the Globetrotter Info line on +44 (0) 20 8674 6229, or visit the website: www.globetrotters.co.uk

A change of date….on October 19^th, we have yet, another interesting guest speaker!! Liz Ferber will be doing a picture show and presentation about some of her favorite exotic locations, with an in-depth look at some of their most special features. Highlights will include: India, Peru, Africa, and Thailand, specifically: Northern India, the Andes mountains and Cusco area, Senegal and the Gambia in West Africa, and the Andaman Sea, food in Chiang Mai, and the best chicken in Thailand!

Elizabeth Ferber is a freelance writer whose work has appeared in The New York Times Book Review, The Washington Post, New York Magazine, and several other publications. She is the author of ten books, is a graduate of Barnard College and received her Master's Degree in Education from New York University. She is the President of Design Alternatives, a firm specializing in environmentally-sustainable interior design. She currently lives in Katonah, New York with her husband and two children. Together, they travel to the ends of the earth as often as possible.

New York meetings are held at The Wings Theater, 154 Christopher Street (btw Greenwich St and Washington St), to the right of Crunch Fitness, in the Archive on the first Saturday of each month from 4pm -5:30pm. $8.00 for members, $10.00 for non-members.