Greetings from Antigua, again!
When last I wrote I was in San Cristóbal las Casas
and just started on my trip through Mexico, and here I am
ready to launch in to the second section of this trip as we
leave for Honduras tomorrow, and the last of the Mayan
ruins in our itinerary. Strangely I am not all
'ruined' out yet and am quite looking forward to
seeing the temples and stones of Copan on Monday.
The last three weeks have been excellent fun. My lads
have been good value and we are still getting on well so
that has helped to make the time positive. And the Ruta
Maya took us through some of the loveliest parts of
southern Mexico. We detoured down to the Guatemalan border,
in Chiapas, to explore a new road and visit the lesser
known sites of Yaxilan and Bomampac and they remain two of
my favourites due to the smaller size and the exquisite
carvings and paint work there. Camping for about half the
time, we cooked some excellent meals and stayed in lovely
places. Palenque was made more accessible by our excellent
guide, Ernesto, and Uxmal was made worthwhile due to the
fact that we missed most of the tourist hordes by being
there as the site opened. Chichén Itzá wa huge
and very touristy but very interesting. We then retired to
the beaches of the Caribbean, south of Cancun, for a couple
of days. Swimming in the turquoise waters there was lovely.
Throughout this time the food remained good and people
friendly. Our last ruins in Mexico were those at Tulum, a
small site built on the edge of the Caribbean and for the
worship of the dawn. I also went for a cavern snorkel
nearby – fun and blessedly cool after the heat and humidity
of the area.
We crossed into Belize with the minimum of fuss and
headed straight to Caye Caulker for two days of sun, sea
and relaxation. Although I managed to get sunburnt and not
to see a manatee (dugong family of sea-cow), we had a fun
time snorkelling, watching dolphins and wandering around
the small town. Back to the mainland and straight out of
Belize city. A short stop at the small but lovely zoo,
getting drenched in a tropical downpour, and then to San
Ignacio for two nights. During that time I did another
cavern tour – beautiful colours and formations – in a
canoe, and we all worried about a sudden closing of the
Guatemalan/Belize border due to a demand for back pay by
the ex-paramilitary forces who had blocked the roads in and
around the Petén area (i.e.: where we were headed).
Thankfully it was all settled quickly and we lost no time
but the prospect or retracing out steps through the north
of Belize and most of the parts of Mexico that we had
already traversed was not a welcome one.
Into Guatemala and the Petén area we had mid-summer
in Tikal, perhaps the most important and largest Mayan site
in Central America. Unfortunately the sun did not cooperate
and show us how all the buildings were built according to
the seasons and light directions but it was a brilliant
mornings ramble. I think I have climbed more stairs in the
last three weeks than I have climbed in the last three
years! We saw lots of wildlife and had another excellent
guide. Part of the film 'Return of the Jedi' was
filmed there and it was amazing to be high over the canopy
top looking into the greenness and seeing structure over a
thousands years old poking up through the trees. Wonderful!
From there we went to a place called Finca Ixobal, for
lovely food and a chance to rest and relax before
Antigua.
From there it was a straight drive to Antigua and more
great views of the volcanoes that surround this town. I
introduced my friends to a cafe that served eggs benedict
and we all indulged in good coffee and other delights to be
found here. Our travels also allowed me to revisit
Chichicastenango and Panjachal and from there revisit my
friends in San Pedro. I have revelled in the chance to feel
at home here as I know where things are and how the system
works – but from here on in it will be new territory.
The next four weeks promise to be full of adventure and
new experiences as we traverse the lesser known and less
touristy countries of Central America. Costa Rica is
perhaps the exception to that but to me it will be all new.
The other change will be the addition of a new member to
our group, a British lass who is due to arrive today. She
will be my roommate for the rest of the trip so …fingers
crossed we get on. There will be no more camping or cooking
off the truck though, as there are few places that suitable
between here and Panama City so it is hotels and
restaurants all the way. Should any of you get the
inclination, a real letter would find me in Panama City at
the hotel address on my list and I would love to hear from
you.
Thanks Jacqui and keep us posted! If anyone
would like to contact Jacqui, her e-mail is: jacquitrotter@yahoo.com
What have you seen on your travels? Drop a line to the
Beetle! Beetle@globetrotters.co.uk