I wanted to spend a week away with my younger daughter –
age 18 at the time (June 2001) having had to leave her
behind on a previous trip with my other daughter. Instead
of me making all the arrangements as I always had done in
the past, I ended up leaving a lot to her – a valuable
exercise in itself for both of us!
Liz chose Venice and I intervened here to suggest we
explore some other places nearby too. Liz impressed me with
her competence in booking a flight through the internet on
Ryan Air at one of those ridiculously low prices – a month
before due to fly. Although I then immediately started
making enquiries re accommodation, everything appeared to
be booked up – or we could not book as it was on a first
arrival first served basis – although used to travel, I was
intimidated by this and going to such a touristy place as
Venice, and therefore glad we decided to go directly from
the airport to Verona.
With 24 hours to go I discovered the policy of booking
hostels was to ring about 7am on the morning due to arrive.
In the event it worked out – but I think that area of Italy
would be best visited before the tourist rush – which seems
to be from end May through to September.
I found Ryan Air comforting – the pilot chatted to us
and everything was very efficient. The planes do not land
at the main airport Venice but at small Treviso airport –
20 – 30 miles away. Told we could not get a bus or train
directly to Verona we bought return tickets for the airport
bus. Got off at the train station at Metre – the area of
Venice on the mainland. Train to Verona – I didn't
realise I had to validate my ticket in a little box on the
platform but the inspector looked at our luggage, then at
us – we looked a bit jaded by then – shrugged and punched
our tickets without complaint.
Caught a local bus that took us halfway to the hostel
Casa Giovanni – a catholic, women's only hostel – cool
and pleasant (so hot out). Then we had a bit of a problem
finding food – 9pm and only expensive looking restaurants –
eventually found a snack bar. By the time we arrived back
at the hostel the other beds had now been occupied and we
turned the lights out at 11pm. A street market nearby – not
cheap by English standards but we used this for our
breakfast. Spent the day exploring on foot – a beautiful
city.
Cheapest and best value meal we found was a Chinese
take-away – not the usual stuff – things like battered
frogs legs. Sat by the river watching the sun set – tired
and content – and finally feeling relaxed. Earlier we'd
walked to the YH (further out of the centre than where we
were staying) hoping the warden would make the booking for
us for our next night's accommodation.
They couldn't but did give us the correct number –
in the book it was the fax number! The warden of Montagagna
YH didn't speak a word of English – somehow I mustered
enough Italian and we understood each other (it is French I
speak, not Italian – despite my Italian name!) Next morning
it was lucky we got to the station early – queues to buy
tickets and then another to obtain information so we could
find the right train! Discovered we had to change trains at
Nagara – and the leaving time for Montagnana was the same
as the arrival of our train. However, everyone very relaxed
– it seems the trains wait for each other. Montagnana – a
sleepy town – and a good place to relax. The YH (in a watch
tower in the ancient town walls) had only 4 of us staying
there. Friendly warden, despite the language barrier.
Next day to Venice – up very early to go to the unmanned
little station. At Mestre I bought a 3 day pass to use on
the canal boats and local buses – well worth it, but not
quite the deal I thought – it did not cover the boat from
the camping site at Fusima, where we were staying, to
Venice. So we mostly used the bus via Mestre each time –
only 1 an hour. Fusima is not somewhere I would recommend –
it is a campsite for 18-30 type clubs – very noisy for much
of the night and the cabin we were in was not any more
sound-proofed than a tent… apart from the difficulty in
transport.
Venice was crowded in the tourist areas – such as St
Marks Square – but not so bad a bit more off the beaten
track. I did find the locals unfriendly and not many
appeared to speak English – they must be fed up with being
besieged by foreigners, even though that is how they make
their money – and everything is expensive. We found a
supermarket at long last and I stopped feeling so anxious
about how we were going to afford to eat.
Some highlights for me were Santa Maria della Salute and
the orchestra (including piano!) outside, Peggy Guggenheim
exhibition, street music in the Jewish quarter, and the
island of Burano (brightly painted little houses,
'granny' underwear on the washing line in a little
park, wine and fresh fish in a little restaurant), and
discovering an Italian 'fast food' restaurant in
Mestre – Bis (does not resemble an English fast food
establishment!).