Since the arrival of the West Indian population in London, in the 1950s and 1960s, Brixton Market has been the place for Afro-Caribbean foodstuffs especially along Electric Avenue, while the African and Asian fabrics are also worth a look.  Check out the biggest Ghana Yams in London – they're the size of a small child.  They say it's Europe's biggest Caribbean foods market and they could be right.  

Brixton Market is mainly for ethnic foods, fruits and vegetables.  You can find odd merchandise, from wigs, rare records, homeopathic root cures, to plantains and hair extensions.  Fish is fresh and well priced, as are flowers and fruits. You can find the latest R&B CDs for a tenner each and fill up your toiletries cabinet for £1 per item. 

The market covers several areas of Brixton: Reliance Avenue – a short and narrow covered market running between Brixton Rd and Electric Avenue. Stalls include children's clothes, camera/watch shop and a vacuum cleaner spare parts store! Brixton Station Rd – big outdoor market mainly selling second hand clothes and bric-a-brac with some electric goods of uncertain origin. Electric Avenue – the original market that was once protected by extended awnings running the length of the street.  Mainly fruit and veg and clothes stores. Granville Arcade – large covered market with an eclectic mix of shops including a tattoo studio, cafes, Caribbean bakery, several fishmongers and all kinds of unsavoury trays of animal produce.  Not for sensitive veggies! Station Arcade – small selection of stores leading up the druggies favourite haunt, Brixton railway station. Market Row – Another big covered market with a large selection of stores including the superb Eco Pizzas and Cafe Pushkar. Tunstall Rd – New art market opposite Brixton tube.

Just a word of warning, Brixton is a great and lively place during the day, but late at night, it can be a little scary.  Be careful with your possessions at all times whilst in any market. 

Open Monday to Saturday 9am to 6pm, except Wednesday when it's open 9am to 3pm.

Next month: Covent Garden market

Greetings from Antigua, again!

When last I wrote I was in San Cristóbal las Casas and just started on my trip through Mexico, and here I am ready to launch in to the second section of this trip as we leave for Honduras tomorrow, and the last of the Mayan ruins in our itinerary. Strangely I am not all 'ruined' out yet and am quite looking forward to seeing the temples and stones of Copan on Monday.

The last three weeks have been excellent fun. My lads have been good value and we are still getting on well so that has helped to make the time positive. And the Ruta Maya took us through some of the loveliest parts of southern Mexico. We detoured down to the Guatemalan border, in Chiapas, to explore a new road and visit the lesser known sites of Yaxilan and Bomampac and they remain two of my favourites due to the smaller size and the exquisite carvings and paint work there. Camping for about half the time, we cooked some excellent meals and stayed in lovely places. Palenque was made more accessible by our excellent guide, Ernesto, and Uxmal was made worthwhile due to the fact that we missed most of the tourist hordes by being there as the site opened. Chichén Itzá wa huge and very touristy but very interesting. We then retired to the beaches of the Caribbean, south of Cancun, for a couple of days. Swimming in the turquoise waters there was lovely. Throughout this time the food remained good and people friendly. Our last ruins in Mexico were those at Tulum, a small site built on the edge of the Caribbean and for the worship of the dawn. I also went for a cavern snorkel nearby – fun and blessedly cool after the heat and humidity of the area.

We crossed into Belize with the minimum of fuss and headed straight to Caye Caulker for two days of sun, sea and relaxation. Although I managed to get sunburnt and not to see a manatee (dugong family of sea-cow), we had a fun time snorkelling, watching dolphins and wandering around the small town. Back to the mainland and straight out of Belize city. A short stop at the small but lovely zoo, getting drenched in a tropical downpour, and then to San Ignacio for two nights. During that time I did another cavern tour – beautiful colours and formations – in a canoe, and we all worried about a sudden closing of the Guatemalan/Belize border due to a demand for back pay by the ex-paramilitary forces who had blocked the roads in and around the Petén area (i.e.: where we were headed). Thankfully it was all settled quickly and we lost no time but the prospect or retracing out steps through the north of Belize and most of the parts of Mexico that we had already traversed was not a welcome one.

Into Guatemala and the Petén area we had mid-summer in Tikal, perhaps the most important and largest Mayan site in Central America. Unfortunately the sun did not cooperate and show us how all the buildings were built according to the seasons and light directions but it was a brilliant mornings ramble. I think I have climbed more stairs in the last three weeks than I have climbed in the last three years! We saw lots of wildlife and had another excellent guide. Part of the film 'Return of the Jedi' was filmed there and it was amazing to be high over the canopy top looking into the greenness and seeing structure over a thousands years old poking up through the trees. Wonderful! From there we went to a place called Finca Ixobal, for lovely food and a chance to rest and relax before Antigua.

From there it was a straight drive to Antigua and more great views of the volcanoes that surround this town. I introduced my friends to a cafe that served eggs benedict and we all indulged in good coffee and other delights to be found here. Our travels also allowed me to revisit Chichicastenango and Panjachal and from there revisit my friends in San Pedro. I have revelled in the chance to feel at home here as I know where things are and how the system works – but from here on in it will be new territory.

The next four weeks promise to be full of adventure and new experiences as we traverse the lesser known and less touristy countries of Central America. Costa Rica is perhaps the exception to that but to me it will be all new. The other change will be the addition of a new member to our group, a British lass who is due to arrive today. She will be my roommate for the rest of the trip so …fingers crossed we get on. There will be no more camping or cooking off the truck though, as there are few places that suitable between here and Panama City so it is hotels and restaurants all the way. Should any of you get the inclination, a real letter would find me in Panama City at the hotel address on my list and I would love to hear from you.

Thanks Jacqui and keep us posted!  If anyone would like to contact Jacqui, her e-mail is: jacquitrotter@yahoo.com

What have you seen on your travels? Drop a line to the Beetle! Beetle@globetrotters.co.uk

This is a tale of how Trade Aid's Tanzanian Manager perceived the UK on his recent and first trip over to England.  Trade Aid is a UK charity whose aim is to create sustainable employment in a particularly lovely part of southern Tanzania, Mikindani, near Mtwara.

On the 14^th June, after a long wait, our beloved Mikindani leader, Mr Dennis Willy Massoi, arrived in England.  After Mtwara International Airport, he looked totally shell-shocked at Heathrow, particularly when it was pointed out that he was only in Terminal 4, the smallest!  A quick excursion onto the M25 was enough for him to decide that he didn't want to drive in England (know the feeling?).  Two hours later, after an M3 experience, he was dropped off in the New Forest at my home.  He did notice that there seemed to be more animals (horses, cows, pigs and deer) running around than in Mtwara area.

That night he was taken to the Salisbury Bandari Club, (also known as The Chicago Rock Café) which was full of drunken ladies dancing on tables and celebrating Hen Nights.  Dennis said it would never happen in Mikindani.  On Saturday, suitably attired in an England football shirt, Dennis watched the England-Denmark game in a pub in Salisbury and seemed to enjoy the 3-0 win as much as the locals.  After a few days with Jacob Amuli in Taunton, Dennis returned to work at Trade Aid.  Several exciting things had been lined up for him, but probably the most interesting was the visit to Tony Herbert's apiary in the Chalk Valley.  Clad in spacesuits, we were still very nervous of the thousands of bees who seemed oddly irritated at us opening the hive and removing their honey.  It is hoped in the future to have a beekeeping trial project in Mikindani under the supervision of Tony.

Very, very early on Friday morning, we collected Dennis from Salisbury, along with some former Trade Aid volunteers, and headed for Stonehenge, to watch the sunrise over the stones on the Summer Solstice. Dennis had probably never seen 22,000 people all in one place before, and especially not the eclectic group that gathers there each year, with music, dancing, drums and fire eaters, children, dogs, colourful costumes and some rather dubious practices, all benignly watched over by the Wiltshire Constabulary.  English weather was true to form and the sun didn't so much rise as ooze into the lowering clouds.  When we felt that Dennis had seen enough of the spectacle, we walked the mile or so back to the car through the teeming rain, and headed for Salisbury, and the England – Brazil match.

After another Friday night out boogying, it was all building up to the big Saturday night event at Burgate.  We had around 100 guests who enjoyed a marvellous African Buffet by Pompi Parry, after listening to talks by Tony Herbert and Len Coleman.  Ian and Nicola, recently returned from Tanzania, were there, together with many ex-volunteers and visitors to Mikindani.  The highlight was Dennis explaining what he thought of England!  Apparently he had been worried at Mrs Brian's absence.  “Who will do the cooking?” 

The answer was Mr Tesco, convenience food department.  These totally unhealthy items, pizza, steak pies, fish and chips, Indian takeaways, combined with those marvellous machines ' the Microwave and the Dishwasher had him wondering “why on earth does anyone in England get married?”  Good point Dennis, I'm sure there is an answer to this tricky question, but we'll have to think about it.  An excellent evening raised about £850, which will be spent entirely in environmental projects in Mikindani.

On the Sunday Dennis went up to London and saw all the main sights from the London Eye.  On Monday he did a bus tour to have a closer look, Buck House, Houses of Parliament, Big Ben etc etc, all caught his eye.  By around 4pm though he'd had enough of the culture and was to be found in a pub near Trafalgar square.  Before he returned to Tanzania on the Tuesday, we asked what had made the biggest impression on him, was it the Stonehenge Solstice, Heathrow, Houses of Parliament etc?  None of these impressed him as much as the Salisbury B & Q!  So many tools and building materials under one roof, he couldn't believe it. 

For more information about Trade Aid, volunteers and their work, please visit their website www.mikindani.com

Sarah, an Aussie from Canberra has sent an update on her European adventures.  She says: I have spent a few weeks travelling by myself in Italy, Slovenia, Croatia, Bosnia and Hungary. In Italy I went to Venice, Florence, Siena, Lucca and Sam Gimignano (which I still cannot spell) and Trieste. Loved Venice, as you know, and other highlight was the Tuscan hills outside of San Gim. I could have sat there watching the seasons change, the hills are so enchanting. Went ambling through grape vines and olive trees for that authentic experience. Will be looking for a job squashing grapes in a small Tuscan village after I have finished working on a ferry in Venice.

If you are ever in the region it is extremely worthwhile to do a little circuit around the Balkans, where the hordes of tourists that populate Italy have not yet penetrated.  Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia is a quaint old town with a wonderful range of cafes and beautiful old buildings among the willow trees on the river bank. A day trip away is Bled, home of my favourite castle for this trip.  Perched on a cliff overlooking a deep green lake with an ancient monastery on an island, sheltered by the surrounding Alps.

Then I caught the ferry from Rijeka in Croatia down the coast to Dubrovnik.  Slept on the deck with the smell of salt air and the warm breeze to lull me to sleep.  The coastline is stark, with weather bleached rocks and sparse vegetation, the darker green of coastal conifers. And the water is so clear azure at the shore and a deep blue as though someone spilt ink where it's deep.  Wandered the old town of Dubrovnik, enclosed by fully in tact city walls and escaped the heat to an island 10 minutes away, with rocky beaches and a deserted fort to clamber in and imagine where the old cannons would have been fired from the crumbling walls. 

The hot sun on the ground creating that smell of dried leaves and warm earth that is so intoxicating and evocative of summer. A chance encounter with some English lasses – the Beetle! – (and a few bottles of wine) and I was off to Sarajevo. A contender for my favourite city in Europe.  Certainly the most interesting if not the most beautiful.  Minarets and church spires share the skyline and the architecture tells the stories of all those different periods of history from Turks to Austrians right up until the recent war.  Shrapnel marks still scar the pavement and buildings are pockmarked with bullet wounds, and yet the cafe lifestyle is thriving and thelocals delights in strolling up and down the pedestrian walks each balmy summers night. 

The tunnel museum tells the story of the tunnel, the only link between Sarajevo and free territory during the siege, and locals will tell you their stories of how they lived during the war.  A place with a long and interesting history currently transforming and adapting itself once more. Next stop was Zagreb for my birthday.  A stately city with many fine buildings and yet more cafe lifestyle.  Friends joined me and we celebrated my 103rd birthday by watching some crazy French street performers doing a comical version of the magic flute, complete with soprano and brass ensemble and full audience participation. 

The other highlight of Zagreb was the annual animated film festival, for something a bit different.Another long un-air-conditioned train trip later and I was in Budapest to meet another friend, wondering how many times I would have to revise which is my favourite city in Europe.  Rightly compared with Prague, the most beautiful feature is the palace, castle and parliament buildings along the river, that along with the bridges are beautifully lit at night. We went to a small town on the Danube bend and climbed to a castle before catching the boat back down the river to Budapest.  Spent a lovely day at the hot baths, and then enjoying a long meal on the river front as the sun set on another beautiful summers day. And now I am in London. 

The last four weeks of this trip will see me dashing around the UK, catching up with friends and family. I will also go to Scotland, having been unsuccessful in obtaining a visa for Russia as well as to Ireland for a few days for a South American truck reunion and to see some more family. 

If you'd like to contact Sarah, her details are: sarahguise@hotmail.com

In last month's e-newsletter, we talked about Spain demanding Gibraltar back from the British, and how odd this was when they themselves had two territories in Morocco, (Ceuta and Melilla) that the Moroccans would like back. 

You may have noticed in the news that a couple of weeks ago, on July 11^th, a small band of Moroccan soldiers landed on the unoccupied Spanish owned, but jointly claimed Island of Perejil (Spanish) or Leila (Arabic) or Parsley (English) – unoccupied but for goats, that is, and just 25 metres from the Moroccan shoreline. 

They set up tents and put a Moroccan flag.  The arrival was said to be to celebrate the King of Morocco's wedding.  About a week after that, Spanish troops arrived on the island, escorted by full naval battleships and gained control from the Moroccan army.  Now the Spanish troops have withdrawn from the island and all is well again: foreign ministers of Morocco and Spain have finalised a US-brokered (the EU was snubbed in helping here) resolution to their dispute over the Mediterranean island of Perejil.  Although both countries claim the island, Spain says it had an understanding that neither side would erect a permanent camp there.  The return to the status quo does not mean that Morocco has given up its claim to sovereignty of Pereji.

Morocco was also hoping to take the opportunity to talk about all the issues of contention between the two countries.  These include the Western Sahara, clandestine immigration and fishing, as well as the future of the Spanish sovereign enclaves of Ceuta and Melilla.  Spain said it was willing to talk about anything except the enclaves.

Under a bridge in a vast city dominated by a powerful empire, lives a giant troll. A short walk from the beast's dark hiding spot stands a statue of a faraway leader where the locals drink a potent brew for stamina. This is not a hobbit town in Middle Earth. This is Fremont, a suburb of Seattle, the self-declared Centre of the Universe.

Since the Centre of the Universe was 'discovered' in 1991, Fremont has become known for a growing collection of public art that all manages to live up to the official motto, De Libertas Quirkas, or Freedom to be Peculiar.

On a cold, grey day in April, a six block walking tour is a great way to exercise the body and mind.  I walked east from the colourful signpost that points to the major attractions, 'LENIN 2 BLKS' in ochre and 'ATLANTIS 663 FATHOMS' in aquamarine.  A block from the sign is a cold-war missile that once adorned the side of a surplus store in nearby Belltown. Now painted with the crest of the Fremont republic, the 'Rocket' is lucky to be there at all. The first attempt to erect the rocket in 1993 failed, allowing the locals to make a joke about the committee not 'being able to get it up'. The rocket was finally installed in time for the 1994 summer solstice and the liberation of Fremont.  

A short walk north from the Rocket, amongst the pink blossoms, next to the 'Taco Del Mar' sign, is a 16 foot bronze sculpture of Vladimir Lenin. Weighing 7 tons, the statue is the only known representation of the Russian leader that shows him surrounded by guns and flames instead of holding a book or waving his hat. Lewis Carpenter, an American working in Slovakia, found the statue lying face down after it was toppled in the revolution of 1989 and mortgaged his house to pay for the shipping back to the US. Carpenter planned to sell the sculpture as the world's most unique garden gnome. The statue is still for sale for $US 150,000.

I was not wearing a long thick coat designed for Russian winter, so I moved on to boost my energy the way the locals do. In 'Still Life', a bohemian coffee shop, artists, writers and students buzzed. The drug of choice for these urban rebels was the same as the Microsoft campus dwellers, caffeine. I was still getting used to the super-brew and even with an asparagus and red pepper omelette on thick brown toast I could feel my eyes jolt open and my pulse speed up.

With the java beans aid I walked up the hill and under the north end of the Aurora Bridge I found the Fremont Troll.  Sculptured in 1990 by four local artists – Steve Badanes, Will Martin, Donna Walter and Ross Whitehead – who won a Fremont Arts Council competition, the 18ft concrete beast munches on a full size Volkswagen Beetle and leers at visitors with a shiny metal eye. As with much of the community's installations, the Troll is a living exhibit that reflects local feeling. In 1998, when a man shot a bus driver causing the bus to crash off the bridge into the apartment building next to the Troll, a glistening tear appeared under his eye. The creature is also the guest of honour at “Trollaween” every October.

The wind rushed up under the concrete pillars of the bridge and bit deeper and colder than the cement Troll's teeth ever could. The weather also drained the colour of the faces of the five passengers 'Waiting for the Interurban'. The cold aluminium statues looked resigned to their fate, wrapped in the sporting colours of a local winning team. I paid special attention to the face of the dog with a man's face, brought about by a dispute between sculptor Richard Beyer and aluminium recycler Armen Stepanian, the one-time honorary mayor of Fremont.

Trying to rid my bloodstream of caffeine, I walked away from the centre, along the cycle path lining the edge of Lake Union, past the houseboats made famous in Sleepless in Seattle to the decaying metal structures of Gasworks Park. In the shadow of the rusted boilers covered in bright swirls of graffiti I looked back at the Seattle skyline as the Fremont drawbridge tooted, cutting the republic off completely from the city, just the way the locals liked it.

David is trying to combine careers in internet, marketing and travel. Travel Writing and Photography is one of several projects he is currently working on.  Information about other projects can be found at www.dmfreedom.com.  David can be contacted by email at dave@dmfreedom.com