Category Archives: archive

Oslo Weekend

The tourist season in Oslo starts around the middle of June and finishes in the middle of September. The 15th of September, to be precise.

This means that going to Oslo in October is not such a great idea. The second mistake was not only visiting Oslo in October but also flying there with Ryanair. A very bad move as Ryanair lands in Torp, some 100km away from Oslo where there is only a Ryanair bus to take you the 2 hour journey into Oslo. Torp airport is small, very small, the size if Cork perhaps (another Ryanair destination in Ireland) and there is little to do when your flight is delayed or waiting for luggage. There is also little tourist info at Torp.

By October, Oslo is beginning to be cold. The first day of the Beetle weekend, temperatures were around 6OC and the next day it snowed. If you don't do cold, this is not the time and place for you. Take a hat, gloves and a scarf, plus a warm coat and good walking shoes.

OK, what is there to see: well, the “attractions” consist mainly of walking around the town (it's small), seeing the royal palace, the university, the Parliament building, the town hall, visiting the Arkhus Castle, taking boat trips, (summer months only), and visiting the 20 or so museums, none of which have free entrance. That is Oslo in a nutshell. You will not want to eat, have coffee or go shopping – it is so prohibitively expensive! Also, the shops are closed on Sundays and the museums have shorter opening times so that after about 3pm, on a Sunday, in Oslo, there is very little to do – so book your return flight for the late afternoon!

Spending more than a weekend in Oslo might necessitate considering your finances, maybe a second mortgage: it is breathtakingly expensive – about 50- 100% more than central London prices!

The next mistake was to buy an Oslo card. The Beetle could only find one guidebook in the whole of Stamfords, (the most wonderful travel bookshop on this earth – funny, that …), but both the guidebook and the local literature, of which there was plenty (thanks goodness!) all said that we should buy an Oslo card and this would entitle us to free entrance to all of the museums and local transport.

A 2 day Oslo pass costs around £25 or $40 per person. This allows the holder free entrance into all Oslo museums and free transport around the city. As museum entrance only costs around £2.50 or $4, it became a challenge to visit as many museums as possible in order to get our money's worth! However, our vfm did not take into account public transport – when we added in the cost of a day ticket for the bus, train and tram, (£5 or $8) we just broke even.

The Kon-Tiki museum is disappointing: small, amateurish with bizarre exhibits including polystyrene sharks. Very odd. The Fram museum was one of the better ones: a small-ish A frame building, built around the original early 20th century ship used by Amundson and others in voyages to Antartica. The Viking museum houses 3 10th century long boats and even if you are a Viking buff, it'll take you about 20 minutes. The Museum if the Inquisition was plain upsetting. The Beetle's fave place was Viegland Park, a park a short tram ride out of town with a collection of sculptures and statues. The Oslo city museum was dire; about a third of the exhibits were labelled in Norwegian only! The ski Museum is one of the most expensive museums to get into – entrance fee around £7 or $11 but you get to go up to the top of the old Olympic ski jump. We had to go there to get value for money and also take in the views of the city!

The transport system is excellent, frequent, clean, modern and fast. There were many fast food outlets – Kentucky, Burger King, McDonalds – when you see the prices in the restaurants, you can start to understand why. Eat well at your hotel by stocking up on the buffet breakfasts is the Beetle's advice! The people were friendly enough, but compared to the last Beetle visit, an embarrassing 15 years ago, the city was surprisingly dirty, the walls had graffiti sprayed on, and there were a few people begging on the street – not at all the clean Scandinavian image the Beetle had imagined, but then it is a capital city and perhaps nowhere is exempt from these problems.

If you want to visit Oslo – go in the summer months! Then you can take boat trips and visit the fjords. For more info on Oslo, contact the Beetle on: Beetle@globetrotters.co.uk


So You Think You're Well Travelled?

Here's a little Beetle quiz based on airport codes. See how many you get right! Go on, have a guess!

Which cities are served by airports with the following codes:

  1. AMS
  2. MCO
  3. CDG
  4. YYZ
  5. HND

For the answers, see at the end of the e-newsletter.



Ryanair – the Low down on the Low Cost Airline

It may be cheap (but not always), but it certainly isn't clever. And it definitely isn't funny! Flying Ryanair is not the fantastic low cost and cheerful option that it is made out to be. First, the low cost airlines (Ryanair, Buzz, and Easyjet/Go) have made Stansted their main hub.

Stansted is a major pain to get to and from as it is situated some 68km north of Central London and the principal way, to get there using public transport, is on the Stansted Express from Liverpool St in Central London. A return ticket from Liverpool St in central London costs £23 – not cheap for the 50 minute journey each way. If you arrive back into Stansted after midnight, the chances are that you will have missed the last train, because they do not always wait for the last flight, so the alternative to travel back to London is by expensive taxi – we are talking £60+ (or $100+). Now that the Stansted Express no longer runs on Sundays due to rail works, you have to take a painfully long coach journey that takes around 2 hours.

Secondly, one of the particularly unendearing habits practiced by BAA (British Airports Authority) at Stansted is to be selective as to which flights they decide to put up on the flight information screens. This lack of info seems to apply particularly to Ryanair flights. This means that you could be sitting waiting in the check in area for your flight check in information to appear on screen and it never does. A weary frequent Ryanair traveller warned the Beetle that this happens frequently, so a lesson learned is to occasionally prowl around the airport to check that your flight hasn't already started checking in. This happened to the Beetle going to Trieste, resulting in a late check in, only 15 minutes before the gate closed, reducing the amount of time available for foraging for duty free chocolate (and other Beetle fodder) to a minimum!

Thirdly, Ryanair do not give you a boarding pass with a printed seat number – it is free seating. What a nightmare, all those people with their sharp elbows. Dignified British queuing (um, no!) turns out in reality as a training opportunity for a rugby scrum! Is it really too much trouble to put seat numbers on a ticket?

Once you have wrestled your way on board, you may think about reading material to while away the excessive amount of time spent on the runway awaiting clearance to depart. You'd be disappointed. There is no reading material whatsoever; no free newspapers or magazines to read. The staff do hand out a brochure with pictures of perfumes and silly Ryan Air models (as if!!) and then when you approach landing, you are requested to hand them back again! (There really isn't anything worth reading in them anyway all, unless you like looking at pictures of grey coloured pearl necklaces.) Buzz, by contrast have excellent info brochures with information about your destination, what to see, where to go, recommendations on where to eat, day trips away etc.

Fifthly, forget on-board entertainment or headphones, music or films – the only entertainment to be had is to observe the no frills service you are paying for, for example, watching the faces of the uninitiated when they are asked to pay £4 ($6) for a sandwich, and £1.50 ($2) for a small and nasty coffee. For her trip to Oslo, the Beetle took a flask of coffee, much to the envy of fellow passengers and the annoyance of the air crew. (Buzz do the best and very drinkable coffee if you have a choice! Also recommended by our Webmaster!)

Even for someone of limited height, (5'2”), the seats are cripplingly unrealistically tiny with next to no leg room. Even the Beetle's knees touched the seat in front.

Sixthly, presumably also to cut costs, passengers are responsible for cleaning; whilst I agree with our webmaster that passengers should be tidy and take their rubbish away with them at the end of their journey, the Ryanair way is to have 2 “hostesses” walk down the aisle with a big bin liner open. You are required to lean over your fellow passengers and throw your rubbish in the bin liner as they walk by. Talk about target practice. It is one of my nightmares that one day, someone will actually use the sick bag provided (the only object to be found on your seat pocket) and be too embarrassed to try and throw it into this walking bin bag, so they'll leave it for me to find, whilst thinking oh, that's strange there actually is something in my seat pocket, I wonder what it is!

Seventh: the staff. My theory is that people who work for Ryanair failed to pass the Aeroflot entrance exams. Rudeness, ability to glare and make unnecessarily snotty remarks are all prerequisites for hiring. As for the pilots, flying Ryanair for them must be their first job out of pilot school. The Beetle has never, ever had a smooth two tyred landing on the handful of flights she has been with them.

But my biggest complaint about Ryanair: it's not just the poor service, which is abominable, it's not the supercilious staff, the lack of decent coffee or seat numbers, it's the fact that to cut costs, they often do not fly into the main airport in a city – and they don't even warn you about it on booking! The Beetle finds this practice offensively misleading. For example, if you want to fly to Copenhagen in Denmark, you actually arrive into Sweden and have to take a bus journey back into Denmark.

The Beetle recently flew Ryanair to Oslo. It was only after she had booked the tickets when she investigated how to get from the airport to the centre of Oslo, that she realised that Torp airport, where Ryanair fly into is 100km away from Oslo. At no time was this made clear when booking on-line, even though the booking was for Oslo. Had this been made abundantly clear, the Beetle would have gone elsewhere.

Not only is it 100 km away from Oslo, but there is no public transport after 8pm to Oslo from Torp (and even then, it is a very expensive taxi ride to the train station) as Torp is a very small sleepy little town. The Ryanair dedicated coach cost around £20 or $30 return and took 2 miserable hours so that a 7.25pm Stansted departure resulted in the Beetle arriving at her Oslo city centre hotel at almost 1am – and it is a 1 ½ hr flight and a one hour time difference. Do the math, as they say! The real airport in Oslo, where all of the other carriers fly into has excellent transport connections and takes less than half an hour from Oslo city centre by train. Never again!

For more info on Ryanair, visit: http://ryanair.com/

What do you think? Do you have a fave or hated airline? Want to get an airport or airline off your chest? Drop the Beetle a line: beetle@globetrotters.co.uk


FBI Asks for Diver Info

A Beverly Hills scuba diving store has resisted a federal grand jury subpoena demanding that they identify everyone who had taken, but not finished, recreational dive classes over the last three years.

The subpoena was based upon far-fetched fears that an underwater terrorist attack could be accomplished by partially-trained divers. Apparently the FBI has already obtained information about every certified diver in the United States through the certification organisations PADI, NAUI, and SSI.

Ken Kurtis, co-owner of Reef Seekers, stated: “The scenario the FBI was painting–of divers swimming into a harbor with explosives to blow up ships–is extremely difficult and far-fetched for even the most skilled and experienced diver, and would be next-to-impossible for a newly certified diver, let alone one who had dropped out of a class and never completed training.”



Lahore: a historical city with a rich cultural heritage by Hameed Abdul

Lahore is located 288 km from Islamabad. This capital of the Punjab is a city of gardens, parks and educational institutions with a rich heritage. It is an ancient town rich in historical monuments, including Mughal architecture. Lahore is considered to be the cultural capital of Pakistan.

Places of interest include the Badshahi Mosque, Lahore Fort, Old City Shrine of Data Ghanj Bukhsh, Anarkani Bazaar, Wazir Khan's Mosque, National Museum, Sikh monument, Minar Pakistan, the mausoleum of Jahangir, Nur Jahan and Asif Khan, Shalimar Garden, Jallo National Park as well as (some two hours drive from Lahore) there is a world's largest man made forest Chhanga Manga. Lahore is famous for folk dances (dhamal) with drum beating in a traditional way at shrines with a totally different essence of mystic surroundings. Visiting countryside and villages is an excellent experience near Lahore. Lahori people are very hospitable and this hospitality leaves unforgettable impression.

Badshahi Mosque

The city next crops up in literature in connection with the campaigns of the Turkish dynast Mahmud of Ghazni against the Rajas of Lahore between I00I and I008. Around this time it established itself as the capital of the Punjab and thereafter began to play an important and growing role as a centre of Muslim power and influence in the subcontinent. Its heyday was the Mughal era from the early sixteenth century onwards and, as Mughal power began to decline in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, Lahore suffered a concomitant period of ignominy and political eclipse. It was here, at the beginning of the nineteenth century, that the Sikh ruler Ranjit Singh declared himself Maharajah of the Punjab and allowed his troops to desecrate many of the city's beautiful Islamic shrines- including the Badshahi Mosque which was, for a while, converted into a powder magazine. By the time British occupied Lahore in I849, one writer moved to describe the city as 'a mere expanse of crumbling ruins'.

Lahore Fort

Nearby, the massively fortified walls of Lahore Fort speak eloquently of the centuries of passing history that they have witnessed. The fort antedates the coming of Mahmud of Ghazn i in the eleventh century, was ruined by the Mangols in I241, rebuilt in I267, destroyed a gain by Timurlane in I398 and rebuilt once more in I421. The great Mughal emperor Akbar re placed its mud walls with solid brick masonry in I566 and extended it northwards. Later Jehangir, Shah Jehan and Aurangzeb all added the stamps of their widely differing personalities to its fortification, gateways and palaces.

The fort encloses an area of approximately thirty acres and it is possible to spend many hours wandering there, lost in contemplation of times gone by, trying to reconstruct in your imagination a way of life that the world will never see again. The buildings within its walls are a testament to the gracious style of Mughal rule at its height, in which every man knew his place and courtly behaviour had been refined into an elaborately stratified social code. Much of the architecture reflects this code. From a raised balcony in the Diwan-e-Aam, or Hall of Public Audience, built by Shah Jehan in I63I, the emperors looked down on the common people over whom they ruled when they came to present petitions and to request the settlement of disputes. Wealthier citizens and the nobility were allowed to meet their emperors on a level floor in the Diwan-e-Khas, the Hall of Special Audience-which was also built by Shah Jehan, in I633.

Shalimar Garden, Lahore

Another magnificent remnant of the Mughal era, also partially vandalized in the late eighteenth century by the invading Sikhs, is the Shalimar Garden which stands on the Grand Trunk Road about eight kilometres to the east of the old part of Lahore. “Shalimar” means 'House of Joy' and, in truth, the passing centuries have done nothing to detract from the indefinable atmosphere of light-heartedness and laughter that characterizes this green and peaceful walled retreat. A canal runs the entire 2,006 foot (6II meters) length of the garden and from it 450 sparkling fountains throw up a skein of fresh water that cools and refreshes the atmosphere, making this a favourite place for afternoon walks for the citizens of modern Lahore. Lahore is rightly regarded as the cultural, architectural and artistic centre of Pakistan; indeed, the city is so steeped in historical distinction that it would be possible to spend a lifetime studying it without learning everything that there is to learn.

Hameed's areas of specialisation include documentary filmmaking, being a conservation leader from the WWF College for Conservation leadership, graphic design, teaching multimedia Arts at national college of Arts and he is a regular travel column contributor to an English speaking Pakistani newspaper. For more information on travel in Pakistan, Hameed is happy to answer any e-mails: hameed@gandhara.org

If you are looking for a friendly, clean cheap backpackers in Lahore, Hameed recommends the Regale Internet Inn in Lahore. E-mail: Regale_internet@yahoo.com


Mauritius by Fatiha

Ask most of the people around you: “where is Mauritius?” and they probably could not tell you. And yet the famous writer Mark Twain said: God created Paradise, and copied Mauritius. I am a Moroccan citizen lady, and by recent marriage to a Mauritian citizen, and I am now in Mauritius.

MY WAY is a famous song.

MY WAY OF SEEING MAURITIUS, is another story.

Mauritius is really indeed a beautiful island in the Indian ocean, near the east coast of Madagascar and South Africa. The main industry of the country is tourism, and tourists come from everywhere in the world, and all throughout the year, as there is really no winter here, and the weather is always temperate.

The tourism sector is well boosted and organized, and whatever type of tourist you are, you always have what you want in terms of accommodation and rates. It is very easy to get a good accommodation at even 4 Euros per day per person, in an apartment, studio, bungalow and you can also be accommodated in 5 stars hotels and suites.

If you browse any search engine over the internet and put “Mauritius” in your search box, you will be surprised to the number of information available and to see the number of companies, selling and servicing the Mauritius tourist business.

Unlike other places, Mauritius has lots of activities and places to interest tourists, for example, you get the best of many lovely beaches, interesting sightseeing tours that will lead you for example to the unique spot of 7 coloured earth in the world, situated at Chamarel, beautiful nature forests and waterfalls.

Mauritius is a cosmopolitan island where there is harmony of race. On the island, white people, Creole, Hindus, Muslims and Chinese live peacefully. Each race has its own culture, and it is very visible while going from one place to another, seeing the temples, churches, mosques. People in Mauritius attach great importance to religion.

For the short time that I have been on this island, I have seen the following:

You should always bargain and never accept the first price that is quoted to you. Whether it is for the airport taxi, or whatever goods you purchase, and you will see after the transaction that it was really worth bargaining.

Lots of native people are attracted to tourists and never miss an opportunity to make friends with you. It depends of what you want, but they already know what they want from you! Many Mauritians are proud to be in the company of blondes! (Beetle watch out!) Mauritians are very helpful – ask anything and they will try and help you.

There is also another side of Mauritius, which most of the tourists do not see: there is another way of seeing Mauritius, to live as a Mauritian with a Mauritian. You will see his difficulty for struggling to get his living. The salaries are low and prices have gone up. The gap between the rich and the poor has never been as wide as it is now.

Anyway, I am in Mauritius now, and one thing I want to recommend to you, is that you must not forget to do is to taste the dhull purri and farata, which is in a sense the national food, served on the street as a kind of fast food.

Yours from Mauritius

Fatiha Mray.

If you would like to contact Fatiha for information on Mauritius, please e-mail her on: cbspride@intnet.mu


New European Air Line Compensation Rules

Airlines in Europe will have to pay increased compensation to passengers who are stranded by cancellations or overbooking on flights if new legislation is approved.

At present, passengers who are forced to take a later flight because of overbooking – a common practice among carriers – or find their flight has been cancelled get between EUR150 and EUR300.

The new levels of compensation are lower than figures first proposed by the European Commission that were proposed at between EUR750 and EUR1500 depending on length of flight. Travelers on short haul services that are “bumped” from a flight or are affected by a cancellation, can now claim EUR200 (USD$195).

Those on longer flights can be compensated by up to EUR600 (USD$586). Some low cost carriers have warned that the proposals, passed by the European Parliament on Thursday, could mean a rise in fares unless carriers are willing to accept lower profit. The low cost airlines are unhappy about this and believe that the level of compensation should be adjusted to the price of the passenger ticket, rather than a flat rate covering every airline.

Not covered by this new compensation are events outside the direct control of carriers, including poor weather, long running strikes and security matters.



Volunteer with Muir's Tours

Muir's Tours is committed to travel with concern for the environment, the indigenous people and of course our clients. Our name was inspired by John Muir, the “Father of Ecology”. We are a non-profit organisation with proceeds going to various charities. Your custom will provide us with funds that are passed on to various charities and projects.

We are looking for any help we can get, but most volunteers fall into one of two categories. The Casual Volunteer (CV) who will commit for at least a month and the Long Termer who will stay at least 1 year. We offer the casual volunteer on most of our projects food and accommodation at low cost and practical / logistical assistance with travel. All CVs must pay their own costs – these are minimal (e.g. in India US$6 / £4 per day for food and basic accom, US$21 / £15 train – Delhi / Dehradun / Delhi) together with a registration fee of US$75 / £50 to help with our admin costs.

The options are quite varied and the more popular locations are detailed below.

North India – In Dehradun and Dharamsala we are developing ways to help the Tibetan people help themselves. In Dharamsala there is a well established craft workshop and guest house and we are planning to set up others. We also need people to help promote the sale of crafts back in their home country. We want to establish homestays – a short holiday living with local people – in the areas around Dharamsala and Dehradun. Research work is needed to identify additional suitable families / homes.

Near Dehradun in the small village of Rajpur is a home for Tibetan children (mostly orphans) that have escaped by foot over the Himalaya from Tibet – we want to support this establishment by sponsoring individual children for their education. You can help immediately by suggesting to friends and relatives that they sponsor a Tibetan child, most of whom are orphans. If you know someone who is willing to pay $ 21 / £15 per month to educate, house, feed and clothe a young Tibetan, please let us know.

North central Nepal – near the Tibetan border in and around the village of Panglang. There is accommodation available in a local home and in the tourist periods of March / May and Sept / Dec there is the luxury of a riverside camp at additional cost. The camp is a permanent set up which is a base for rafting and kayaking. Some prior study of the language would be required as there are interpreters available some of the time only, but a limited vocabulary would not be too great a problem.

Mid central Nepal – near the town of Pokhara in a Tibetan Refugee Camp. There is accommodation available in a local home or in the community owned guest house. The camp was set up in 1962 following the Chinese invasion of Tibet and is now well established with brick homes, a fine monastery, a school and a carpet factory. The NKF has English speaking Tibetan staff permanently in the camp, so Tibetan language study is not necessary.

Mongolia – famous for it's horsemanship and yet it nearly lost its most precious horse breed. They are probably the last remaining wild horse species in the world. Przewalski horses almost become extinct with some horses surviving is zoo's. After careful breeding they were reintroduced in several Mongolian nature reserves. Only the group in Hustain Nuruu Reserve was successful. We need to monitor the horses to make sure they are adjusting to their new environment and to gain a better insight into their behaviour. You need to be able to work without assistance in tracking down the harems on horse-back and compiling data on their whereabouts and behaviour. You will need to help us encourage conservation awareness in the local communities.

Eastern Nepal – The Makalu – Barun area. We have a number of projects in this area in conjunction with The Mountain Institute (TMI) and the accommodation would be in local homes or lodges normally. Some prior study of the language would be required as there are interpreters available some of the time only, but a limited vocabulary would not be too great a problem.

To find out more, visit Muir's Tours website on: www.nkf-mt.org.uk or contact info@nkf-mt.org.uk


London bus tours

There are a few to choose from, so we thought we'd tell prospective visitors to London about the top four, plus the Harrods coach.

The convenient thing about taking one of these tours is that you can get to see pretty much all of the major sites of historical importance in one day, and this can save a lot of shoe leather, tube journeys and strange bus journeys going in the wrong direction!

Once you've “done” the touristy thing, there are plenty of less famous sites of equal interest to keep all site seers happy. And this includes mastering the London bus by not going in the wrong direction….we drive on the left, you see!

Convenient places to board these tours include St Pauls Cathedral, St. Martins-in-the-Fields church in Trafalgar Square, Baker Street underground station, Haymarket Street just off Piccadilly Circus, and opposite Victoria Station at Grosvenor Gardens.

Coach and Bus Tours – Harrods in Knightsbridge offer a 90 minute coach tour around the city. Sign up at the store.

The following three companies offer double-decker bus tours that feature hop-off service. The Big Bus Co has an all-night service if you just can't wait to see the sights after you arrive (or you are suffering from jet-lag and your body hasn't caught up to local time).

The Big Bus Company

Adults £16, children £6

bigbus.co.uk

Email: info@bigbus.co.uk

London Pride

Adults £15

Children £7.50 londonpride.co.uk

The Original London SightseeingTour

Adults £15, children £7.50

theoriginaltour.com



Vietnam by Mike Dodd

Mike is the winner of the Globetrotter Club £1,000 legacy available to members under 30 years of age for the best independent travel plan.

If you are under 30 and are a member, please visit our legacy page for details of how to apply. It is available to anyone in the world, as long as they are a member of the Globetrotter Club, have a great plan for independent travel and are under the age of 30. Get those plans in!!

Mike is using his travel award to visit Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos. Here's Part 1 of his travels:

We've been in Thailand now for about 10 days and thought I should drop you all a line to let you know we're actually alive and what we've been up to. We spent a few days in Bangkok which was very different than I expected. It was so much cleaner and more organised and the Sky train makes it feasible to get across the city quickly. There is lots of diversity across the city with huge modern skyscrapers next to slums.

The Grand Palace is incredible and so are many of the other sites but the food is by far the best aspect. You can pick up great noodles on the street for only a few pence. We've also tried Scorpion, grasshopper and loads of other things that so far our bodies are accepting. The nightlife in Bangkok is also a completely new experience and we had a couple of wild nights out. We're also getting pretty ruthless with the tuk-tuk drivers.

We caught the sleeper up to Chiang Mai the second largest city where we had our Visas for Laos and Vietnam done whilst we went off into the Jungle Trekking. The Trek lasted 3 days and was hard work but well worth it! We met some hill tribes and also did the very touristy elephant rides and white water rafting. The weather here is mixed with some rain but always very hot and within seconds of doing anything we're sweating. We then headed up by bus to Tha-ton where we are now which is a small town only a few kilometres from the Burmese boarder.

It's been really nice staying here for a couple of days away from the noise and pollution of Bangkok and Chiang Mai. The views are amazing and we've only seen two other westerners here. We've even spent an afternoon chatting with a group of young monks about philosophy. We're leaving in an hour by boat down to Chiang Rai where we'll be spending a while exploring the northern tip of the country. So far it's all gone really well (touch wood) the people are very friendly especially when you get out of the cities. The weather has been good and we've kept away from trouble and illness.

We should be getting to Laos this weekend we think but we're just taking it as it comes.


Scottish Dinosaur Print Find:

Whilst walking her dog, a local hotelier on Staffin island, off Skye found a dinosaur footprint dating from the Jurassic period in rock on the beach.

Experts say huge meat-eating dinosaurs that left their prints in the sand 165 million years ago probably made the tracks. Scientists have described the discovery on the east coast of the Isle of Skye as significant.



Meeting News from London:

Globetrotters meeting Saturday 5th October 2002 By Padmassana

Eamon Gearon's talk entitled “Walking to Siwa” gave us a glimpse of the Egyptian desert. Eamon first visited the area in 1994 and has returned regularly since. His slides depicted the mad Siwa traffic and told us about the Brooke Hospital for working animals, a charity that seeks to alleviate the suffering of mules and other working animals. The camel market where Eamon buys his camels is a sight to be seen, the camel's owners mark them with paint and each subsequent owner adds their mark, so that in the end some of the camels are psychedelically coloured! Eamon told us a good camel costs around £200 and when he trades them in after use, “One careful owner”, he normally gets his money back. Eamon's treks into the desert last around 3 weeks. For the first 100 miles or so from the coast water wells are well marked, but after this water becomes an issue, he told us how he got dysentery from a well where he suspected an animal had fallen into it and died thus polluting this important source of life. The Egyptian desert is not a sea of rolling golden sand dunes as we may have expected, but mile upon mile of rock-strewn desolation. Though this landscape does lend itself to some superb sunset photographs. Eamon's slides of Siwa showed us the houses made of mud and the 100 feet high mud city walls, which have 21st century additions like electricity cables and satellite dishes. Eamon explained that these mud constructions can be killers in the rain as they are prone to collapse and turn into mud slides. Siwa is a series of oasis, it is said that you can sink a well anywhere in the locality and you will find water, Siwa is a green place, despite its location.

Our second talk was by Tahir Shah entitled “Searching for King Solomons mines”. Tahir's ambition was to find the location of these legendary mines. After extensive biblical research Tahir came to the conclusion that they lay in present day Ethiopia. On his second day in Addis Ababa Tahir struck lucky finding a taxi driver called Sampson who had previously worked as an illegal gold miner. Tahir and Sampson headed to the mines via a town plagued by hyenas. The locals believed these hyena's came off the mountain in order to steal the local children, so to placate them, the local “Hyena men” would slaughter a cow and feed it to the hyenas each evening. The illegal mines are a dangerous open cast type of operation run as co-operatives. The material is moved by hand, along chains of miners. The women then do the panning. Tahir explained that if a miner finds a nugget he usually swallows it, waits for nature to take its course and then goes to the city to sell it. However it is not uncommon that if other miners find someone has done this, they are often murdered and disembowelled for the nugget. This is just another danger for the miners, especially the brave ones who go down deep pits in search of their prize, as these pits frequently collapse with loss of life. Tahir showed us a cave he suspected could be the fabled place he was looking for, but alas it was just full of bats and ended after a few metres. Tahir is sure that the legendary mines are out there somewhere, just waiting to be discovered.

London meetings are held at The Church of Scotland, Crown Court, behind the Fortune Theatre in Covent Garden at 2.30pm the first Saturday of each month. There is no London meeting in August, but we will be back in September. For more information, you can contact the Globetrotter Info line on +44 (0) 20 8674 6229, or visit the website: www.globetrotters.co.uk


Namibia by Renate

There is an old Namibian saying: “If the Namibian sun has shone on you once, you are part of the country.”

People who have never been to Africa seem to be under the misconception that lions and wild animals roam our streets or that we stay in the bush! This has caused much laughter from Africans and some even thought that this was just the opportunity to fool around with someone. But that is typical African hospitality. People will joke around just to make you feel comfortable and at ease!

And when you finally convince someone to come and stay in “the bush” in Namibia, it's amazing to see their reaction when they arrive, one of disbelief and feeling that a mistake has been made, is written all over their faces! You see, our International airport is situated 40km outside Windhoek and when you arrive there, it truly seems as if there is nothing! And you do not see the city until you are basically in it! The landscape is such that it hides civilisation from a first time visitor!

But once your find yourself in Namibia, you'll be angry at yourself for not coming here sooner! The country is exquisite in beauty, cultures, places to see and things to do! But don't be in a hurry! African time seem to have found its way to Namibia too! At the coastal town of Swakopmund (the most visited town in Namibia and the second largest town) you get a true European feel – people are laid-back and it seems as if they are on a constant vacation. But don't misunderstand: business is good – you do get good service, but this is the place to come and unwind completely! And we do offer the best cuisine! You can even experience a true African dinner in Windhoek in a township restaurant! This is a must do for any traveller! But you must have a strong stomach! This is not for the faint-hearted!

So what is there to see and do in Namibia? There are international events, such as championships in sand boarding and powerboat racing, to mention a few. And don't forget, we do have the oldest desert in the world, the Namib Desert. You can ride the endless waves of dunes on a quad bike or in a 4×4 or hot-air ballooning over the Namib Desert or visit indigenous tribes or go big game fishing or skydiving or going on a seal and dolphin cruise or bird watching or take a safari to see the big 5, or, or, or…(the list is endless!) Travelling in Namibia you will encounter good hospitality and good value for money and unspoilt nature scenes where wild life is abundant.

With is wide variety of inhabitants, habitats and scenery, Namibia has a lot to offer any traveller! It is fast becoming a popular holiday destination and with a well-planned itinerary, you can see an impressive amount of the country that will leave you breathless with awe and amazement! Even the most difficult to please will find something to enjoy.

For more information, visit Renate's website at www.mcleodcontours.com


Air News:

LAPA, the Argentinean domestic airline went belly up a while back but the name LAPA is to be revived by new owners who rescued it from receivership. It has been operating as AIRG since the Aeroandina group raised capital in both Argentina and Bolivia to put it back in business. Plans are afoot to start regional services to Sao Paulo, Brazil, the Chilean cities of Santiago and Puerto Montt and to Santa Cruz de la Sierra, Bolivia, by the end of this year.

Due to the dreadful and unpredictable event in Bali, the new Bali based airline Air Paradise, which was due to start flying in October 2002, said it was delaying its launch indefinitely and refunding tickets it has already sold. The airline was due to make its first flights to the Australian cities of Perth and Melbourne.

According to union sources, a one-day strike planned by Air France unions for October 24 has been switched to November 5.

Workers are protesting over French government plans to privatise the French flag carrier and reduce the state's controlling stake.

Expanding Australian budget airline Virgin Blue plans to add flights to New Zealand to its schedules and will cause a few ruffled feathers in the Australian flight market, largely operated by Air New Zealand and Qantas. Virgin Blue was launched in August 2000 with a single route between Brisbane and Sydney. It now serves thirteen Australian destinations. Now, Virgin Blue plans a code share arrangement with United Airlines so that it will be faster and easier for booking flights from Brisbane to San Francisco and Los Angeles and beyond.

Meanwhile, back in the US, Boston Logan Airport is to introduce security scanners that can make immediate checks on driving licenses and passports against government databases or “watch lists.” Despite concerns expressed by civil liberties groups, the airport said it will go ahead with the system. Initially, it will only be used to check around 10,000 people who work at Logan. However, the airport's operators, Massachusetts Port Authority, say they would like to see the system extended and in tests carried out during the Summer discovered a number of passengers flying out of the international departures on forged passports.

Passengers due to fly into or out of Stansted (the Beetle's most HATED airport, ever) near London may want to alter their travel plans if this involves early morning or late evening flights.

Due to alleged rail improvements, from Sunday 29th September 2002 through to Spring 2004, all Sunday train services to and from Stansted Airport will be replaced by a slow coach service.

Incidentally, the last coach leaves Stansted at midnight on Sunday for Liverpool St station and 11pm from Liverpool St. First coach to Stansted from Liverpool St is allegedly at 4.30am and 5am from Stansted to Liverpool St. You have been warned, and allow plenty of time – preferably around 2 hours journey time! Tel Aviv's Ben Gurion Airport is closing down international services from Terminal 2 at the end of October week due to reduced numbers of passengers. The decision, by the Israel Airports Authority, is part of a series of cost-cutting measures, according to daily newspaper Haaretz. If international passengers start to increase the Terminal 2 facility may reopen.



Meeting News from New York:

A message from Laurie, the New York Chair: there will NOT be a Globie meeting in November, but we WILL have our December 7th meeting.

We wish Laurie Bonne Voyage as she prepares for her trip to Asia!

New York meetings are held at The Wings Theater, 154 Christopher Street (btw Greenwich St and Washington St), to the right of Crunch Fitness, in the Archive on the first Saturday of each month at 4 pm.


Bali, Indonesia

You would have to be living in a world with no access to the radio, newspapersor tv not to hear about the recent bombing in Bali. News reports say that around 75 percent of those who died (around 200) in the blasts were Australian nationals.

But let's not forget the local people of Bali and other nationals too, who lost their lives in Bali. A further 300 people were injured in the attack. As investigations start into Saturday's nightclub bombings on Bali, Australian airline Qantas is laying on extra flights to bring tourists and injured victims back from the Indonesian island. Singapore Airlines has also been carrying additional passengers.

The United States Federal Bureau of Investigation and Australian police and intelligence services are helping in thesearch for the bombers.

The governments of Australia and the United States are advising against travel to Indonesia and the US State Department has asked all American citizens to leave the country. All US government personnel, apart from those in key positions, are being withdrawn.

The UK has also issued a travel warning, advising the cancellation of non-essential visits to Indonesia.

Despite some expected cancellations, Singapore Airlines says it is continuing to operate four daily flights to the area.

The airlines say they will not impose penalty charges on passengers who change or cancel their flight reservations. Those without tickets wishing to leave Bali are being offered discounted fares.



Mutual Aid

Overland in Africa

New Globetrotter Renate would like to make contact with others who share her interests: overlanding in Africa, archaeology, anthropology, natural history and the environment, conservation, and, others who have travelled in the following countries in North and South Africa: Libya, Algeria, Sudan, Egypt, Tunisia, Sahara desert, Chad, Niger, Mali, Mauritania and, S Africa: North Cape Province, Zambia, Zimbabwe, Kalahari Desert, Botswana, Namibia, Mozambique, Tanzania, Angola. If this is you, please contact Renate on desertfox@freeuk.com

Advice and Travelling Companion(s) wanted

Bengt from Gothenburg, Sweden is looking for a travelling companion(s) for a road trip around June/July/August 2003 to join him in full or in part for a 6-12 month trip overland in the USA, Canada, Alaska and down through Central America to Panama. He/she must speak decent Spanish as whilst Bengt speaks good English, he is not so good with Spanish. They must also be able to drive as he is shipping his own Toyota Landcruiser over to the USA, probably to Jacksonville (Fl). In addition, if any Globetrotter out there can help Bengt with any advice about driving around, where to visit, car documents etc, he would be very grateful. He also asks if anyone knows if it's still exist a boat carrying vehicles between Colon Panama to Cartagena Colombia? If you can help Bengt with travel advice about specific countries or is interested in being a travel companion, please e-mail him or phone Bengt on: +46(0)31403327

UK Winter Break

Simon from the UK asks: I wondered if you could help me. I am looking to get away for a winter break in the UK and want to rent an isolated cottage without neighbours or developments just the cottage and the elements. I have searched extensively for this but can't seem to find it anywhere.. Do you know of such a company that can help me out with this.

Need help? Want a travelling buddy or advice about a place or country – want to share something with us – why not visit our Mutual Aid section of the Website: Mutual Aid



Meeting News from Ontario:

Coming up on November 15, 2002, Robin Christmas, Linda Rosenbaum & Family: “The Ve-Ahavta” (“You Shall Love”) a video of a community development project in Bartica, Guyana.

For information on Ontario meetings, please contact: Svatka Hermanek:

shermanek@schulich.yorku.ca or Bruce Weber: tel. 416-203-0911 or Paul Webb: tel. 416-694-8259.

Meetings are held on the third Friday of January, March, May, September and November. Usually at the Woodsworth Co-op, Penthouse, 133, Wilton Street in downtown Toronto at 8.00 p.m.


Free London Museums: The Photographers' Gallery

There are three galleries offering a change of photographic exhibitions from photographers around the world.

Admission is free and the small gallery can be found at 5&8 Great Newport Street WC2H, tel: 020 7831 1772, website: www.photonet.org.uk From 4th October to 16th November, there is a great exhibition called Brixton Studio which looks at local photographer Harry Jacobs and four other contemporary artists. There's a great bookshop too.

The nearest tube is Leicester Square, so you could combine this with a visit to the great National Portrait Gallery that is close by, followed by a Chinese dinner in China Town, or a film in Leicester Square.