Category Archives: archive

Answers to: So You Think You’re Well Travelled?

Answers to: So You Think You’re Well Travelled?

  1. Congo – Brazzaville
  2. Madagascar – Antananarivo
  3. Oman – Muscat
  4. Azerbaijan – Baku
  5. Bangladesh – Dhaka

0 out of 5 – you need to get out more!

1-3 – not bad

4 – very good! You are a Globetrotter!

5 – are you sure you didn’t sneak a look?


Which Anti-Malarial by Paul at Travelpharm

There are several different types of antimalarial medication, the choice of which depends on such factors as area to be visited, length of stay, your own medical history, medication you may already be taking, type of holiday (hotel, cruise, trekking etc).

These drugs can be loosely divided between the older formulations (Chloroquine and Proguanil) and the more recent preparations licensed for antimalarial use (Doxycycline, Mefloquine and Malarone).

Chloroquine has been used for around 50 years and during that time vast areas of the ‘malarious world’ have become resistant. As a 4-aminoquinoline derivative chloroquine prevents nucleic acid synthesis in actively dividing erythrocitic malarial parasites and thus DNA synthesis is affected. The drug is taken as two tablets weekly on the same day of each week, Countries still sensitive to Chloroquine include Costa Rica, Belize and Mexico.

Proguanil is a Biguanide which is metabolised in the body to cycloguanil, an active form that blocks the production of folic acid and subsequent synthesis of DNA. The human cells are not affected by this action except during pregnancy where your doctor will usually give a folic acid supplement to counteract a possible shortfall in the mothers cells.

As with Chloroquine there is widespread resistance now to Proguanil and it is often given in areas where the traveller is unable to take Chloroquine for some reason (such as sensitivity to the product). The Chloroquine and Proguanil when combined in one pack as Paludrine/Avloclor travel pack form a more formidable antimalarial and can be used in many more areas where the individual drugs would not be effective enough.

In the Travel Pack of Paludrine/Avloclor produced by Astra Zeneca the dosage of Proguanil is two daily which would be taken at the same time and the Avloclor (Chloroquine) is two weekly, also taken together. (A calendar pack gives an easy format and prevents mistakes in dosage whilst away.) Proguanil/Chloroquine is used in countries such as Sri Lanka, Nepal and most of India. These preparations can be purchased without prescription from Pharmacies.

The ‘newer’ group of antimalarials are helping to prevent malaria in areas where resistance has become a major problem, the malaria parasites being incredibly adept at mutating and hence overcoming the drugs used against them.

Malarone is Atovoquone and Proguanil combined to give a combination of an antiprotozoal and a biguanide. The dosage is one tablet daily for adults usually taken one or two days before entering the malarious area, during and for seven days on leaving. There is also now a paediatric formulation for children.

Lariam (Mefloquine) is a 4-aminoquinoline (as in Chloroquine) and in adults is taken as one tablet weekly. To check for side effects your doctor will often prescribe these at least two and a half weeks before travel, during and for four weeks on return.

Last but not least is Doxycycline a well tried and tested tetracycline antibiotic given as the hyclate. This was found to have marked antimalarial properties as well as being an antibiotic. It is usually given one week before travel (if it has never been taken before), during and for four weeks on return.

These last three products are prescription only and can only be obtained from a Pharmacy on supply of a private prescription issued by your doctor or travel clinic. Depending on your medical history etc., your doctor will decide which of these preparations are suitable for your travels.

Chloroquine for example is not normally given if you suffer from psoriasis or epilepsy. If taking Warfarin for blood thinning always check this out with your doctor, and likewise if pregnant or hoping to become pregnant then again you must consult your doctor first before taking an antimalarial drugs.

Your G.P. or Travel Nurse will check out the area you are about to visit and together with medical history and knowledge of the type of holiday will prescribe the relevant antimalarial.

For prices and supply of any of these preparations you can log on to www.travelpharm.com or ring us on 01395 233771

Budget Airline Resource

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This website is excellent: a guide to low-cost flying in Europe that includes every budget airline route, with maps and associated information. It also has a news feed of low-cost airline news for European travellers – the only such feed to focus on budget news!

A Forest Flight or Fight by Tony Annis

The day not long born – Bloody hot already, the sun reflecting off the tarmac and I could already feel the weight of the heat on my back and head, even through my Tilley hat. The fragile looking little single-engined plane, nicknamed in Brazil a ‘Teko Teko’ because of its resemblance in sound and vision to a child’s model plane driven by elastic bands – It stood there and shimmered and glowed in the sunshine while the temperature had not yet even reached 42 degrees Celsius.

In what seemed like slow motion a fat mechanic slowly hand pumped fuel into the plane’s tank. The smell of aviation fuel added itself to the tropical morning smells as Adam Baines and I stood waiting nervously to load and board this Teko Teko. Denis, the pilot, stood there in his beautifully cut, fashionably faded Khaki. This forty-something, athletic pilot exuded confidence as he emerged from the cockpit holding a slender glass phial which he dipped in the fuel tank. Denis looked at the yellow liquid in the phial against the blue, blue sky. He slowly brought it to his nose and gently sniffed it and rolled it under his nose with the concentration of a wine connoisseur. In Cruzeiro the pilot’s nose makes the final decision between aviation fuel and anything else that could find its way into tank!

Denis eyes turned to us, then drifted slowly over our baggage. He was not in a good mood. We were last minute passengers with extra weight, forcing him to remove all his various boxes, destined for different jungle stops and reload the craft again. On top of that we were going to pay the $900-00 with travellers’ cheques instead of US dollars cash. Denis looked us over. I could feel him wondering if the traveller’s cheques would bounce. He starred at these two Europeans and he probably wondered if we knew what we were getting into. I said, “The traveller’s cheques are paying for the return as well as the outward journey and, if they bounce; you won’t have to bring us back. Chief Biraci will vouch for us anyway”. Right he said, looking at my waistline “Back to the cargo hanger to get you weighed”. Finally, now having to believe that I really did weigh 85 Kilos, we approached the plane again.

Instrument checks done, the tower gave us clearance, chocks away. Propeller whirling, he shouted above the engine in English, let us sway. Mystified for a moment, then Denis loudly said the Lord’s Prayer in Portuguese and asked for the Lord to watch over our journey. A moment of reality came through the excitement and I prayed to whatever gods are up there, please keep an eye on us. The plane slowly surged forward, gathering speed, it lifted off and skimmed above the trees. Cruzeiro gradually disappeared behind us. At last, the adventure was to begin as we soared up, up and away.

I saw a carpet of green under the sky blue canopy, the sea of endless forest stretching as far as the eye could see to the edges of the horizon. I had a feeling of how small and insignificant are men in comparison to this wonder of nature. We flew on, gradually leaving behind the amazing golden beaches of the snaking river Jurua, so different from any riverbank I had come across before in either Africa or Australasia.

I was sitting in the seat by the pilot with my camera at the ready. Ready for what? I looked down at the trees so tightly packed together, my imagination was running away with the thought of what might happen if our one motor took sick and died. Chief Biraci had said, “There are no bad old pilots in the Amazon. Bad pilots die young; and so do their passengers”. Quickly glancing round I saw Adam starring out of the window, obviously moved by the sight of such beauty. Not the time to spoil his dream with a possible nightmare, for at that moment a rainbow appeared across the jungle and made what was already wonderful, magical. I looked at the Chief relaxed in his seat. I began to feel some of passion he had for his home, and also began to understand how he stood up at a conference in Panama and caused consternation by tearing up a prepared speech while shouting, “The Yawanawa want their land back”.

This man, who had lived on the building sites of Rio Branco and earned a pittance of money, had not only fed and clothed his body, but also fed his mind and soul and to become a survivor. At a time when most Indians ended up on the bottom of the human scrap heap, became alcoholics and the low life of the gutters of these fifth world towns. Chief Biraci had educated himself, fought for Indian rights to become their spokesman at the various conferences that became fashionable in the 80’s when the 1st world became aware of environmental issues. This plane journey was giving Biraci a small escape from his almost constant responsibility for the tribe. We had been in the air now for about 75 minutes, a journey that would have taken about fifteen days on foot or twenty by canoe.

Denis, the pilot, banked the plane and we moved on to another compass heading. He shouted over the roar of the engine in as much of a conversational tone as possible, “Don’t forget to be back on the grass strip on the date we agreed. We were cutting it fine by planning to be back just a couple of days before the start of the rainy season and the plane would be unable to land if the strip was waterlogged. I had already had a bad landing on a previous trip on a water soaked landing strip, the plane had tipped up on its nose – So, I had been there, done that and had no desire to repeat the excitement. “I make two passes and then I leave – That’s the deal”. I shouted back to the pilot,” I won’t forget, nor will Adam we both know that a seventeen day walk as the wet season starts could be the end for us”. Denis smiled,”Could be? It definitely would be”. “Thanks for the vote of confidence”, I shouted. We banked again and Denis said, “Sete Estrellas, time to land”. We swooped down low, crossing the river Gregoria and making for the grass strip by the side of the small group of thatched huts that was the village of Sete Estrellas and the jumping off point for our trip into the unknown.

New Moon Handbook on the South Pacific

This 1091-page travel guide describes and maps Tahiti and French Polynesia, Pitcairn, Easter Island, the Cook Islands, Niue, Tonga, the Samoas, Tokelau, Wallis and Futuna, Tuvalu, Fiji, New Caledonia, Vanuatu, and the Solomon Islands.

The 119 town plans and island maps are carefully labelled, without the confusing numbered map keys found in other guidebooks. For ease of reference, all internet and email addresses are now embedded in the listings.

There are sections on scuba diving, snorkelling, surfing, windsurfing, kayaking, yachting, cruising, hiking, fishing, and golf. Beaches, sightseeing, transportation, and places to stay and eat are thoroughly covered, as are the histories, economies, environments, cultures, and peoples of the Pacific region.

Author David Stanley has been writing about the South Pacific for over 25 years. Paul Theroux called his handbook “the most user-friendly travel guide to the South Pacific,” and it remains the leading guidebook to the Pacific islands.

For more information, visit southpacific.org

Interesting Facts

1. The USA has more personal computers than the next 7 countries combined.

2. Americans and Icelanders go to the pictures on average 5 times a year, while Japanese go only once.

3. The United States spends more money on its military than the next 12 nations combined.

4. Kazakhstan is the world's largest landlocked country.

5. Most people live in poverty in most African countries.

6. Only two countries in the world are doubly landlocked: Liechtenstein and Uzbekistan.

7. Senior gentlemen might consider a trip to Russia, where there's two over 65 women for every man.

8. Sick of crowds? Try Greenland where there's 38 sq km per person.

9. Sri Lanka has lowest divorce rate in the world – and the highest rate of female suicide.

10. South Korea is the heliport capital of the world.

Funny signs

I was on the Lewis Pass in New Zealand and I saw a sign at a petrol station which stated, instead of petrol and diesel prices, ARM and LEG, gave me a chuckle

If Westernisation suits sir… stay there! If you’re open minded try the smiley coast by Michelle

Michelle writes: I felt compelled to write about my second visit to The Gambia, it was all so different and held so many new experiences for me than from my first visit back in February this year. I also appear to have 'dodged' the bumsters – as I got to know and befriend a few the first visit – hey life is hard they need to live yeh! And you fail to mention poverty in Gambia – as a 'developing country' in your news letter! I appreciate bumsters can be annoying – I just tend to say 'no abaracca' (thank you) and emphasise I'm staying at Kololi compound like a Gambian and they leave me alone!

Yes, I stayed at a compound/lodge (£6 per night) and was no 5 star hotel – but if travellers want to experience The Gambia, what better way than to live the true Gambian experience? Ok sometimes it is a trickle from the cold water shower, the electricity is on 50% of the time, the two ring gas cooker is outside, and there’s a flea bitten dog guarding the gates to the compound..but hey my Gambian friends can visit – they are not excluded as they were when I stayed on a complex. I'd also like to mention the compound like the one mentioned below was moderately clean enough!

The benefits of befriending Gambian people whether they are bumsters or taxi drivers or people from my friend Fakeba's compound – and they do not have the luxury of a toilet or running water there (water from the well in buckets) – or adequate schools for the children – (a tin hut!) is sharing experience. One of the best true experiences was sharing Koriteh holiday – the end of Ramadam with 14 adults and 10 children all living in one compound (about 8 one bedroomed houses) and sharing together excellent food from 4 large bowls and green tea. The children so nice and happy with no toys dressed in their Sunday best, the women worked so hard to make the meal. And other children and friends all come around from other compounds..is sooo nice.

So I have my best soul mate Fakeba to show me around – I am charged as a Gambian not as a tourist..and my money is going into the local economy and not to the 'middle man' in an hotel! This cuts my costs down by at least 50%. So try the market in Serrekunda – I feel I was the only white person there – but food shopping is much cheaper than the supermarket – and as fresh – though the meat market was something else! (Very hot with flies and smelled!) though the food my friends cooked for me after – wow! So I return in kind..it is not hard, what I can save I can give – especially to the children. Please don’t ever go to the Gambia without some clothes for them or stationery for their school (special mention for Karin Nursery School, Serrekunda). Or why not give stationery to the children in a compound who do not go to school – less than 50% of the children can read or write.

So my new experiences apart from those I mention above? Seeing dolphins coming back from St James Island – look out for them, and its a wonderful swim there! Seeing the women going out on their small canoes to pick oysters at Lamin Lodge.. my favourite place.. Seeing monitor lizards at Bijilo (monkey park). I'd also recommend going to Brufut fishing village – I rode by bike – but I’m sure there are easier ways to get there – saw cows being herded on the beach and the boats were so colourful – is sooo beautiful.

I would say more about less beautiful encounters I witnessed between my friends and the police…. but I may get censored!

I'd like to give a special mention to Kotu Point beach bar..one of the best and only bars that does not discriminate against Gambians trying to make a living by selling things.. or 'hanging out' there… the views are wonderful as are my friends and the music there – and especially 'bongo man' who will teach anyone to play! I’d also like to say to all you tourist not happy with Gambia – please remember it is a developing country that does not have the same access to health care, sanitation, education, social security and employment we in the west are privileged to have.. the culture is different – celebrate it along with all the similarities of humanity we all share! Share a smile on the smiley coast yeah – it is nice to be nice! I'm going back for more smiles next March… and especially looking forward to meeting my friend Fakeba's family who are Mandinka 180 miles up the river Gambia:)

CD-rom ‘Kiribati, a personal report’ available now!

This attractive CD gives by means of 10 videos, 700 original photographs with explanations and 60 stories a colourful and varied picture of the country and people of the atoll-state in the heart of the Pacific.

Please visit http://www.kiribati.nl for more information.

Steve Cheetham Visits Northern Chile

This is the first in a series of trip reports sent to the Beetle by Globetrotter Steve who is travelling around South America and Easter Island, the lucky chap! So, if you are planning trip to Suth America or are interested in knowing more about it, you may find Steve’s trip reports of interest.

Life has it's ups and downs. On Tuesday I started the journey with a tour to the Altiplano National Parks. There were just three of us in the group, myself and two Germans. We went first to the local farmer’s market to stock up on fresh vegetables and fruit for picnics on the trip. Then we headed inland for a view of ancient petroglyphs showing herdsmen and llamas. There was a tomato farm nearby where we bought fresh produce, exceptionally huge tomatoes.

The next call was a Hari Krishne monastery where we had lunch and then started to climb. It was the main road to La Paz and there were some heavy lorries on the road, one of which had started to roll backwards and had come a cropper. We called at a fortified site over 2000 years old where the entrance to a fertile valley was guarded by a series of semi circular walls. The countryside was now very dry and we climbed through an area of cactus found only in that area of Chile. Near Socompa we went for a short walk down an Inca roadway and we started to see the first wild guanaco and llamas in the fields. We entered the village of Sacompa and looked at the very old church with its squat detached tower. From there we climbed to Putre where we were to stop for the evening. Unfortunately for me I was unable to eat the evening meal as I was feeling light-headed and wasn’t hungry. I had a very poor night’s sleep and was sick in the morning. Nevertheless I set off with the group up to Lauca National Park. There were spectacular views of the volcano across the lake and vicuña to be seen. The group went for a walk but I wasn't feeling well enough to go and so stayed with the vehicle. In fact I slept most of the time they were away. When they returned I was unable to keep fluids down. We returned to Pucalpa as planned but once there the group leader took me to a doctor who said my blood pressure was dangerously low because of the altitude and I needed to travel down to sea level immediately. They tested my blood pressure before oxygen, while breathing oxygen through a mask and then again after the mask was taken off. It immediately fell to very low levels. And so the tour leader drove me down to Arica immediately and the tour carried on without me.

The next day my appetite returned a little. I got a bus to Iquique and booked into a hotel for a couple of nights there. Iquique is a very strange city. It is set at the foot of cliffs that must be above 3000 feet high. An enormous sand dune extends into the Southern part of the city. The old downtown area was very run down and poor, but right next door are two large sandy bays and a lot of quite wealthy looking seaside developments – a casino, sailing club and smart hotels. In the old town is one long street of big houses built when the city was wealthy from the nitrate trade. This extended from an Opera House where Caruso sang to the sea. The whole street is listed and the buildings, built of timber shipped from Oregon in the 19th century, are being restored. It has all been pedestrianised with timber side walks, Victorian era lamp posts and street furniture installed and a new horse tram route is being constructed. Apart from these features it was quite a dull place and so yesterday I boarded another bus and spent four hours twisting down the spectacular coast with cliffs and mountains on one side and the Pacific on the other but nothing growing and no settlement. The road then turned inland past the Santa Elena Nitrate plant and an enormous copper mine to Calama where I changed bus and travelled the last hour to San Pedro, through the desert, as the sun set and the mountains glowed in oranges, reds and gold.

As the bus pulled in I saw one of the Germans who had been on the National Parks tour and chatted to him. I found myself a pleasant hotel and then went out for a good dinner in a restaurant with live musicians where I bumped into a retired Irish teacher from Maidstone who I had met in Arica.

After the problems of the Andes, San Pedro proved a welcome change. I took it easy on the first day, just going to the wonderful museum. I chose the same time as a SAGA group. What has happened to adventure travel? One member of the group was so overweight she wasn’t able to manage the whole museum tour and commented that the thin gold used for face masks looked as though it had been made to cover chocolate.

The next day I was feeling more adjusted to the altitude and walked out to a pre-Inca fort 3km from town. I arrived shortly after the SAGA party. The fort is built on a steep hillside where the river leaves a gorge and forms the oasis. The stonework was interesting, similar if cruder than Inca work. There was a maze of rooms, passages and who knows what leading up to an excellent viewpoint. The SAGA group didn't get there. The area has an interesting history. The Incas were only dominant for 60 years. The local people just submitted to them so were not defeated. However when news came that the Spanish had defeated the Incas the community leaders decided they weren't going to be dictated to about changing their names to match a new not understood religion. They therefore rebelled and retreated to their 11th Century fort. The Spanish, with horses and assisted by some local antagonistic neighbours defeated them in short time and executed the leaders. San Pedro de Atacama then became the sleepy backwater it remained until recently.

Next day, feeling full of confidence, I joined a tour to the Salar de Atacame to see the birds. The Salar looked like thawing snow, a grubby white and crunchy underfoot, with surface water in places. In the distance the distinct shape of the flamingos could be seen although even with strong binoculars you couldn't tell what species of the three found there were in sight. When they flew they looked even pinker and had an unusual Concorde profile with the wings far back along their bodies. In the distance Volcano Lascar steamed. It erupts every four years, the last time being 2000! It seems it throws out ash, not lava, and the winds always take the ash into Argentina. So that was alright.

The next stop was the isolated village of Socaire which had a very small stone church and tower. The church had become unsafe and so the community built a replica on a new town square but were now repairing the original. Around were terraces used for growing vegetables but slowly going out of use. Local men work in the Lithium extraction plant at the Salire and so the local economy is becoming cash based.

From the village we ascended to the deep blue Lakes of Miscanti and Miñques at above12,000 feet. We walked along a ridge from one to the other with stunning views and then back close to the shore. It was an important site for the flamingos to breed. They’re poor parents producing one chick which they will abandon if disturbed. It was the breeding season so we had to keep back from the lake shore. I was pleased to manage the walking without breathlessness or losing lunch!

The final stop was the village of Tocanao which is at the end of a gorge with a stream flowing through it. The stream is used for irrigating figs, quince, grapes and other fruit. The contrast between the arid highlands and the deep green of the valley was outstanding. It reminded me of Dovedale with surreal colour enhancement. Walking along the valley was a real pleasure after the heat and exertions of the rest of the day.

San Pedro de Atacama has an odd mix of visitors. There is a 'hippy' Chilean element, European gap year students, young European Professionals and elderly Islington or Baden Baden types having an alternative retirement holiday. The restaurants are a little more expensive than usual in Chile but have some adventurous combinations on the menu and the wine is delicious.

Well, I moved on to Antofagasta. Antofagasta is lack lustre. It's just a busy city and a bit down at heel. I decided to spend half a day looking at an industrial museum a little out of town. At the bus station this morning there were several ticket windows with bored staff sitting behind them and closed signs firmly in place. I went to the enquiry desk where three men were assisting one customer. After a while one broke away to see me. Can I have a ticket to Bacquedano I asked. I was told to get on the bus already in the terminal quickly and buy a ticket from the conductor. After half an hour the bus left. (Why the hurry?) “Bacquedano” I said to the conductor. “Calama?” he replied. “No, Baquedano.” I said. “Maria Elena?” he said. “No. Baquedano,” I said firmly and pointed to it in heavy print in my guide book. “Ah, Baquedano” he said, “$1 000”. I paid.

The museum was hopeless, uncared for, vandalised and derelict. I nosed around, did a sketch and went top the village for lunch. I had a tasty empenada and a cola for about a pound and then asked where was the best place to get a bus back to Antofagasta. The cafe owner said they were every half hour and you could flag them down infront of the cafe. He would bring me a chair so I could sit in the shade. As he was telling me this a bus went past. I sat in the shade for an hour before the next bus came. I waved. The driver and conductor waved back and drove past in a half empty bus. I decided to walk up to the police check point at the entry to town were all buses and trucks have to stop. After half an hour of standing in the early afternoon heat a bus came and I got on. He then stopped and picked someone else up outside the cafe where I had been sitting half an hour earlier.

Back in town I felt I deserved a coffee and lemon pie. After quite a while the waiter returned with the coffee but said there was no lemon pie. I’m going to treat myself to a nice sea food dinner and white wine. Wish me luck.

Next Steve goes to Easter Island.

Globetrotters Travel Award

A member of Globetrotters Club? Interested in a £1,000 travel award?

Know someone who is? We have £1,000 to award each year for five years for the best submitted independent travel plan. Interested?

Then see our legacy page on our Website, where you can apply with your plans for a totally independent travel trip and we'll take a look at it. Get those plans in!!

Meeting News from Texas

Globetrotter meetings have temporarily ceased until further notice due to a bereavement in Christina’s family. If you can help Christina resurrect the Texas meetings, as she would really appreciate some help, please contact Christina on texas@globetrotters.co.uk

Being Careful: Philippines

As the Beetle was planning a little diving trip to the Philippines, she thought she’d check out the FCO’s travel advice for the area.

The UK’s Foreign and Commonwealth Office advises against all travel to central, southern and Western Mindanao, to Basilan, Tawi-Tawi and the Sulu archipelago, where military and police operations against terrorist and rebel groups are continuing and where kidnappings and bombings have taken place.

There is a high threat from terrorism and kidnapping throughout the Philippines. There continues to be threats against Western interests and there is a danger of collateral damage from terrorist attacks targeted at others.

You should also be alert to the risk of street crime.

Penalties for illegal drug importation and use are severe and can include the death penalty.

We strongly recommend that you obtain comprehensive travel and medical insurance before travelling.

Answers to: So You Think You’re Well Travelled?

Answers to: So You Think You’re Well Travelled?

  1. Bahrain — Manama
  2. Japan — Tokyo
  3. Saudi Arabia — Riyadh
  4. Somalia — Mogadishu
  5. Burundi — Bujumbura

0 out of 5 – you need to get out more!

1-3 – not bad

4 – very good! You are a Globetrotter!

5 – are you sure you didn’t sneak a look?

A Letter from the Edge by Tony Annis

Our friend Antonio Macedo phoned and invited us to a special night out in Cruzeiro do Sul in The State of Acre (the back of beyond in Brazil). He wanted to introduce us to 'Daime', a very Amazonian drink that would awaken our minds, or did he mean blow our minds?

We were taken to a small clearing at the edge of Cruzeiro to a big wooden building. Inside was a large wooden table with benches either side on which twenty or so people could sit round. The decorations reminded me of a small Catholic Church, with its figurines of saints and lit candles. The congregation consisted of a few rubber tappers and a complete cross section of the people of the town, in both position and money. The town people and Brazilians generally call this drug “Santo Daime” and mix it into a sort of semi-religious, Catholic ceremony.

The Yawanawa tribe, on the other hand, think religion is nothing to do with Daime, but that it a necessity for the tribe to take it once a month too clarify the mind and get their heads together for the coming weeks. Daime is not banned in Brazil for it is a drug of a very different nature with a very special effect.

A plant that grows in the ground is mixed with a creeper that falls from a tree, thus the symbolism of the drug is that it is the sky mixed with the earth. We filed into this large hut and sat around the central table. The candles were lit around us and we were introduced as visitors who were about to go into the forest to visit the Yawanawa tribe. First Antonio spoke to the people about having great care in demonstrating against the Governor, as there was no point in upsetting him too much or many more would end up in prison, or worse, rather than solve any problems it would just add to them (another story for another time).

The ceremony proper then commenced with a general prayer for God to help them in these perilous times and then we rose and formed a queue as if going to communion. The Daime was poured out of bottles and each of us had a glass given to us and then made our way back to our seats. The drug started to take effect. We had been warned what to expect but we thought it all slightly ridiculous..

There was silence after we sat down and started to wait for Daime to take effect, the sight and smell of the flickering candles, the only light there was to see around this strange church like place. A few people were sick. This seemed an unusual start to what I had been assured was a great experience! I had been slightly unwell during the day and thought I was going to have bad case of the trots and this seemed to be the last thing I needed!

Daime has two effects and one reason it is not on the banned list is that it is remarkably good for any sort of stomach disorder. That was the good news, but the bad news was that while it cured my problem quickly, it also at the same time stopped me from enjoying the Daime in the way that I was expecting; and the real reason that Adam Baines and I were taking Daime this night.

Still, I had more opportunity to observe the others and see their reactions to the drug. Amazingly, it seemed that after being sick outside on the grass, people tended to have another dose of Daime and on being sat down again, this time it took hold. Thoughts seem to whirl around in time and space with all your life with its, good, bad, family, friends, work and pleasures in a maelstrom in which confusion you seem to be about to be engulfed. Over the next hour the confusion lessens and gradually you start to find that everything is falling into place and you become aware of what exactly you should do, to get your life in order.

At any moment during this time, you can open your eyes and feel completely free of the Daime but as soon as you close them you’re back sorting out the files in your head. Finally the drug clears the system after a total of about an hour and a half. The so called congregation sitting quietly outside, enjoying complete clarity of mind and thought, contemplating under a magnificent starry sky, in the tropical warmth, with the singing of the ‘cigarras’ intermingling with the croaking of the frogs. Everyone, whether Indians or locals, thought it extremely important to take Daime so as to get one’s life in order at least once every six weeks. All believed that it made men and women take control of their lives and less likely to have breakdowns or behave in an anti social manner. The next day I was able, with my stomach now fully recovered, to observe without too much of a sickening feeling, the roaches crawling on the ceiling above the frying pan that was cooking my breakfast!

Naked Man at LAX

A 31 year old Canadian man recently tried to buy a one-way ticket on a Qantas flight from LAX to Sydney, but was turned down because he could not supply a valid credit card. Later, he managed to climb over an airport fence, topped by three strands of barbed wire, without injury and was spotted by an airport worker “running, naked, full-speed” toward the plane. He climbed into the wheel well of a moving Qantas 747. Pilots of the Qantas Airways flight stopped the plane. The man was coaxed out of the wheel well and arrested for trespass. An airport spokesperson said: “

”.his was an extremely dangerous thing for him to do. If he had continued to cling in there with the aircraft taking off at over 200 miles (320 kph) per hour, he might have fallen out and could have been sucked up by an engine.”

”.f he had survived that and was in the wheel well when the landing gear was retracted, he could have been crushed by the mechanism. And if not he very likely would have frozen to death during the 15 1/2 hour flight at 30,000 feet (9,150 metres) while wearing no clothes.”.

Martin Wright on the Road Again by Matt Doughty

Back in January 2004 Martin Wright, one the club’s most sociable regulars at the London Meetings, royally entertained a packed Crown Court with tales of his marathon cycle ride to Australia! Many in that audience will remember his great photos, distinctive narrative style and his thirst for adventure. Well Martin is at it again – this time he’s go back to the land down under to ‘pick up his bike and have a look round’. I think too many cold winter nights provided the motivation to get back on the road! This is the third in an occasional series, based on Martin’s emails, and charts his offbeat approach to the road ahead.

14 September: “Hello everybody… far as I remember the last time I wrote was way back in Exmouth some weeks ago. Quite a lot has happened in that time and I will try to recount some of the moments.

On leaving Exmouth I had a shocking headwind for two days which made me wonder why I left and why I do this sort of thing. Somebody suggested I must be a 'bloody stupid pommie masochist'. No prizes for guessing it was an Australian ! The distances between towns were now as much as 600 kms with a couple of roadhouses in between, which were very convenient in that I could buy supplies and have a shower but the prices were pretty bloody steep and things like bread and milk were usually out of date ! Even Mrs Mac's famous beef pies had usually been warmed through for the 10th time and as a result were almost inedible… One of the roadhouses wanted to charge me $19 for a camping spot on solid ground with no shade – I asked for a discount and was told 'if you don't like it you can xxxx off.' I did xxxx off and about 10kms along I found a very nice spot in the bush for free at which I was later joined by a French family who served me tea made with tea leaves from a teapot. Fantastic !!

Bumped into a few interesting people on the way and was almost bumped into by road-train drivers and some of the less capable caravaners. Throughout the state of Western Australia the government set up many rest areas some of which are for overnight stays – they vary in standard and size. Some you can camp a long way from the road so the noise from the passing road trains is minimal. Some are situated next to rivers which can be good for fishing or swimming but some have crocodiles in so it is advisable not to swim in these unless you are a tour bus driver and trying to impress the females on your tour… Many times I was fed and watered by the caravaners who are obviously very good drivers – sometimes the meals produced were quite amazing. At one stop I was given a starter, main course and a sweet. Beer and wine was also consumed, after I had arrived thinking I would be eating three day old sandwiches and noodles. In Broome I stayed at the Roebuck caravan park and met an English couple who fed me. I was on a mission here to fatten myself up and ate almost non stop for two days – it was a mistake as it made me feel very sick. Further on I met an English hippie called Jupiter who really was from another planet.

I was a little behind time so I had a few big cycling days ahead of me in order to get to Darwin and renew my visa. The ride from Broome to Derby was very hot but allowed me my first sighting of the Baobob tree in various shapes and sizes. The older ones having a huge girth were used by the early settlers or police to imprison the Aboriginals in the hollowed out tree trunks. Also hundreds of thousands of termite mounds abounded, some of which are thought to be over two hundred years old. Quite a few termites in each mound I reckon… The ride from Derby to Fitzroy Crossing, Halls Creek and on to Kununurra was very spectacular. As I was in a hurry I had no time to go visiting some of the famous sites of the Kimberleys – Gibb river road, horizontal waterfall, Geikie gorge, Bungle Bungles, Wolf creek crater. Maybe I will come back some day and purchase a four wheel drive vehicle…

The ride across to Katherine was also very good… was lucky now as I had a tailwind which made cycling very easy. I met six cyclists in two days: a German named Pierre?, an Australian named Ricky and an American named Rob who also camped overnight at the 62 mile camp rest area. I was quite jealous of him as he is riding a bike which I have dreamed of having for sometime – my next bike will be the same. Next day I met three more cyclists. A man & a woman on a tandem and soon after I met Gary who was riding his recumbent cycle. Rode on to Katherine where I had time for a rest day and again fed myself very well and drank a lot of beer. A hot spring ran alongside the Victoria river behind the caravan park… very nice place to relax for a while.

The ride from Katherine to Darwin was with a tail wind so I cruised along quite nicely to within 8 kms of the city centre where I found a caravan park in which to pitch my tent for a few days. I have since renewed my visa so I can stay for another six months which is plenty of time for me to cycle down to Sydney. A little fattening up here then I will be on my way…

15 October: “Hi all ! Have made it as far as Mount Isa in the police state of Queensland. Intended to stay just a couple of days although have now been here for four nights and still not ready to leave. I am staying at a place called, 'tourist haven', which is a backpacker’s hostel and sleeping in a bed for the first time since Perth, about three months ago, was an absolute delight. I had forgotten just how soft and comfortable a mattress can be ! No hard ground, no stones piercing through my sleeping mat, no ants finding their way into my food bag & sleeping bag ! No bugs flying into my tent due to the fact that it can no longer be zipped closed due to a buggered zipper ! Actually the tent is in need of replacing more due to the struggle to get out when I wake up for a pee in the middle of the night. This has resulted in my falling onto the poles and snapping three of them… also fallen onto the tent when returning to the tent after being forced to drink too much beer!

The road from Darwin to Tennant Creek I had travelled two years previously. From Tennant, I road back to a roadhouse called Threeways, across the Berkley highway to Camooweal and on to Mount Isa. Only one roadhouse before Camooweal and a few rest areas with water tanks so I had to carry a lot of food. I met Shirley once again – she is the 72 year old woman who makes me tea all the time and talks at you constantly, often repeating herself! I feel like a verbal punch bag. She often drove behind me on the road for a few kilometres, protecting me she said from the vehicles driving at a high speed. I had to pull over and make her drive on and I was glad to reach Camooweal where I was able to escape her by staying in a caravan park, while she camped down by a river. In Mount Isa I was in the presence of true greatness – his name, Heinz Stuck, who had been cycling since 1963 and visited every country in the world. Overall he’s cycled 500,000 kms and is now age 64 and still going strong ! We drank a lot of beer together and got very, very drunk…

22 October: “Hi all. Since writing from MountIsa I have had a torrid time. It was hard to leave, not because it was a town of beauty or interest – it is a mining town with very little to offer apart from a good salary if you work at the mine. It was hard to leave because I would be leaving my very comfortable bed with the thick, soft mattress. Now it was back to my tent with the broken zips, holes in the fly sheet & inner and holes in the ground sheet. The ride from MountIsa to Cloncurry was a mere 120kms but it was the hardest days riding I have had to date… It was bloody hot; 42c ! I had a headwind which kept my average speed at around 16kph, so it was a long day in the saddle. My water tasted terrible when cold and even worse when warmed by the sun. On arrival in Cloncurry I bought 2 litres of full fat milk which was drunk in very quick time… of course made me feel very sick. At the caravan park, after putting up the tent, it was straight into my sleeping bag and I slept for twelve hours.

Had a rest day before cycling onto Mckinlay, site of the Walkabout Creek Hotel, made famous in the Crocodile Dundee movies. This is a town of about 12 people and one bloody great big Goanna which seems to have the freedom to walk up & down the main street as it takes care of the snakes in the area. It frightened the living daylights out of me ! Next day was a short ride to Kynuna… to here is the site of the Billabong made famous in the Waltzing Matilda yarn by A.B. Paterson. There’s also a famous pub in town called, the Blue Heeler Hotel. A bloody good pub, with many items of clothing hanging from the ceiling and walls left by people travelling through town. Next up a very big ride followed all the way to Winton…167 kms of the most tedious landscape in Australia. The road from one horizon to another seemed exactly the same and as the morning ride was into a headwind, I thought I would be riding well into the evening.

Luckily the wind changed after a short lunch break and the afternoon ride was almost effortless. Winton is an interesting little town and the population has been increased due to a film crew in the area about to make a film. I found good food here and a pub which sells Guinness so I will partake of a few pints this very evening…

A Cautionary Warning – Europcar Malaga

Just a sober warning for anyone considering using Europcar at Malaga airport.

Earlier in the year we hired a car, left credit card details as is normal, checked car for damage prior to leaving airport (around midnight) and got on our way. Didn't notice until at the outskirts of the airport that the fuel tank was only half full. Took car back with three quarters of a tank (more than when we picked it up) and explained to the check in girl what had happened. She accepted that I didn't need to rip them off for a few litres of fuel and said all would be OK.

Got home and about a week later received a bill for 25 litres of fuel and a 12 euro charge for “Special Equipment Replacement”. Total bill 39.15 euros, not a fortune but a rip off none the less.

Tried to contact Europcar with very little success, they eventually agreed that they had only put 17 litres of fuel in the car and will refund the difference, I wouldn't mind betting that they left it as it was and ripped off the next unsuspecting customer. The user prior to us must have had the same problem and they certainly didn't fill it up then !!

Still no explanation of the “Special Equipment Replacement” so be warned. EUROPCAR IN MALAGA AIRPORT MAY WELL ROB YOU!!!

Masai and Back in a Day

In a forest. In a bee suit. In the middle of Tanzania. 100 miles away from Mikindani. With Tony Herbert’s reputation. Most contrapuntal by anyone’s standards but after spending five days with our beekeeping mentor we knew better than to be surprised by such a situation. Our quest to obtain two stocks of bees had started on Tony’s arrival on the Saturday but this particular episode had begun at 5am that very morning.

The objective of our trip to Masasi, a settlement known for its history of beekeeping, was to purchase two hives and colonies of bees to get the apiary up and flying. With six of us packed tightly into the Land Rover we set off West with the sun on our backs basking in the ever more magnificent African sunrise. After breakfast at Mnazi Mmoja (literally translates as “coconut one” but why, no one seems to know) we reached the Regional Resources Office in Masasi at about half past ten following another particularly bruising journey on the roads of Tanzania. After being promised a meeting with the regional beekeeping liaison you can imagine our surprise to find out he had left the office not more than half an hour prior to our arrival. Needless to say, his phone was either turned off or more likely, out of signal. Had our quest for the holy pair of hives been scuppered by the absence of one man?!

Despite this set back, we were offered a glimmer of light at the end of the tunnel by a man named Rodney, the temporary liaison for Natural Sciences in the Masasi district. He knew of a small village called Lipupu, around 50 miles beyond Masasi that was notorious for its beekeeping activities. It was a long shot but with Tony on board we knew that anything was possible and so the decision was made to press on.

Beekeepers

Sure enough, faith has its rewards. We found it without any problems and were pointed straight towards the village beekeeper’s house, signified by the array of unused bee hives and interesting looking logs suspended outside his house. One problem… occupant was nowhere to be seen. We were ushered in to the woods by a group of locals keen to show us the hives kept by the owner of the intriguing house and were promised that he was not too far away and that he only left about half an hour ago. Despite being sure that we had heard those words before that day we set off in to the middle of nowhere to investigate the bees that we had been promised. We could not believe our luck when the owner of the hives appeared from within the bush and after many furrowed brows, tense looks and careful negotiation we purchased our two colonies of Apis Mellifera Scutellata, the African honey bee, to be complemented by a further two log hives worth of sting less bees. After all the setbacks of the day we felt we has earned our luck in finding this beecon (sic.) of beekeeping in an otherwise uninhabited part of Tanzania. So, as we set of widdershins, driving in to the rain, spirits were through the roof. The smile on Tony’s face produced by this accomplishment never disappeared for the rest his stay and it really was the culmination of a tiring but wonderfully productive and enjoyable week. For this we will be eternally grateful for the hard work and never ending enthusiasm of one man. Thank you Tony.

London tube to Heathrow

From January 7 2005, London Underground Piccadilly line trains heading for Heathrow's Terminal 4 station will not go beyond Hatton Cross.

Passengers will have to take a shuttle bus from Hatton Cross to Terminal 4.

Piccadilly line services to the Heathrow Terminal 1, 2 and 3 station will not be affected, although there will be no direct service to this station on the weekend of January 8 and 9, 2005.

The long-term closure of Terminal 4 station is due to work on the Piccadilly line extension to the under-construction Heathrow Terminal 5. London Underground have said that during the 20-month period, the Terminal 4 journey should 'only take about five minutes longer than now', while trips to Terminal 1, 2 and 3 will be slightly quicker.

Around 2,500 people travel to and from Terminal 4 by Tube each day.