All posts by The Beetle

Write for the Globetrotters monthly e-newsletter

If you enjoy writing, enjoy travelling, why not write for the free monthly Globetrotters e-newsletter! The Beetle would love to hear from you: your travel stories, anecdotes, jokes, questions, hints and tips, or your hometown or somewhere of special interest to you. Over 10,000 people currently subscribe to the Globetrotter e-news in over 150 countries around the world.

The Globetrotter e-newsletter is completely free and you do not have to be a member of the Globetrotters Club to receive this. We are a not for profit organisation, run by unpaid enthusiastic well travelled volunteers. We are not affiliated with any commercial organisation. You will not be spammed as a result of receiving our e-newsletters and we do not sell, give or share our e-newsletter or membership list with anyone. Recommend a friend by clicking on: Join up for the free Globetrotter e-newsletter

Write for the Globetrotters Club e-newsletter! To see your story in cyber print, e-mail the Beetle with your travel experiences, hints and tips or questions up to 750 words. If you have photos, we can include up to 6 good quality JPEGs, and let us have a couple of sentences about yourself. Please contact: Beetle@globetrotters.co.uk


2 i’s Coffee Bar Skiffle – It’s Not Just Rock ‘N Roll by Tony Annis

2 I’s album coverThe still cameras flash, the video cameras turn, the crowd press forward – Old Compton St. inTony Annis and the Plaque Soho half closed off. Nothing new about this – It could be an event anywhere anytime but it wasn’t. This was the unveiling of Westminster’s latest Green plaque – see picture right complete with a picture of the author himself! The plaque commemorates the original 2 i’s Coffee Bar – where Skiffle and early British Rock ‘N Roll was born (1956-1970).

This pack of cameras, were not pointing at some youthful stars or celebrities but at a grey brigade of the young at heart. Amongst musicians and singers were: Sir Cliff Richard, Chas McDevitt, Jim Sullivan, Vince Eager, Wee Willie Harris, John Pilgrim, Bruce Welch plus too many others to mention. Fans also came from as far away as Jersey to relive their days of youthful fun either playing or being part of the packed, hot, hand jiving audience – A death trap if there ever had been a fire and would not now be permitted by ‘Health and Safety’, but we loved it.

This day was so successful that the ‘Tales From The Woods’ Roots Music Magazine, has booked the 100 Club, in Oxford Street, for the 28th Jan. 2007 for a tribute to the 2 I’s and the Coffee bar scene in the 1950’s.

Blue JeansSo I’m trying to track down some of the ‘Blue Jeans’ – see the photo left – and their fans and I know that some of them read the GT E-News in both California and Australia, because they have contacted me in the past but alas my computer has crashed many times and I have lost their addresses over the time. So I need to know – Where are they now? Guitarists, George Plumber, Bob Mills (Londoners) and Les Vas (Goa) are the last of the group to be contacted as Michael Fogarty (T-Chest Bass) and I (Drums) are already in touch.

As one of my friends says “You are only young twice” – So go for it and join us jumping and jiving at the 100 Club in Oxford Street – Let the good times roll as the rest of our big adventure continues into middle age!

About the author Tony Annis: Have camera will travel. Over the top but not yet over the hill. Past sixty five and still alive, my get up and go has not entirely got up and gone – like good whisky, I’m still going strong. Travelling through these global villages of ours is great adventure but to me it is the people that make this wonderful world, as well as the exotic places that I love to visit. See you over the next horizon, Tony.


Rio de Janeiro 'Cidade Maravilhosa' or 'Reasons to be cheerful in Rio' by Tony Annis

Being ‘shaked, rattled and rolled’ round this exciting city in the 584 bus that seems to cover nearly all the main parts of the south of Rio at a breakneck speed. Laranjeiras to Leblon via Botafogo-Copacabana and Ipanema all for about 20p. A bus that stops to pick you up anywhere on route if it is at all possible and drops you as near to your destination as possible it can. The 584 does this probably to maximise the passenger’s numbers for its owners and it is no doubt against ‘Heath & Safety’ but I liked it! Another one I liked. The fact you can call collect, from the beaches and all round the boroughs by using the ‘Big Ear’ telephones (Orelhï¿Â½o). These telephones are to Rio, like the red tel. box is to London – So a mobile is less necessary than in London.

 A magazine sent me to Rio a short time ago and I also made a private visit of four months last summer, so I thought I would let the GT Club members know of some of my favourite haunts.

Fruit Juice bars are around all over the place. Polis Sucos is one such place, in Rua Maria Quiterial, Ipanema open 6am to midnight. The bar staff vying with each other in trying to tell us their favourite fruit cocktails-  Such as “papaya with orange” enthuses one. “Nï¿Â½o, mango and strawberry” shouts another. Livia, a customer joins in. Breaking away from her juice, this Carioca charmer says, “passion fruit and mango is where it’s at. Have we tried it? Can she buy us one? Are we enjoying Rio”? Adam Baines and I finally leave having bought four fruit cocktails and spent nearly £2-50. The staff of this bar are always trying to outdo other bars in freshness and service. Another favourite bar, in Leme – ‘Sindicato do Chopp’ (Union of draught beers) Avenida Atlantica 3806, opens early until very late. Not only great beer but also very good food at value prices just opposite the beach, a place, for locals, surfers, footballers and the bikini crowd gather to have fun, Carioca’s love to say, “The father makes the money in Sao Paulo and the son blows it on good times in Rio” all of course talking about everything except work that four letter word, that is like illness – It happens but why mention it? I have watched the dawn rise in this friendly bar, after many a night on the town, a good pit stop as I wound my weary way home.

The city built around large rocks by Guanabara Bay and its famous beaches. Looking down from the Sugar Loaf towards the metropolis, on the right, at the foot of this massif sheer rock, I once climbed it, way back when I was nearly young, called in Portuguese ‘Pï¿Â½o de Aï¿Â½Ãƒ¯Ã‚¿Ã‚½car’: are  the still waters of the Rio Yacht Club and the fashionable, safe borough of ‘Urca’. Strike out to the left and after the small Praia Vermelha, then you pass Leme, one of my favourite beaches in a district that is of mixed incomes, like Notting Hill Gate (of a few years ago) but by the sea. Copacabana, where I grew up as a young boy with surfing and football on the beach has changed for the worst. Prostitutes everywhere and Large Five Star Hotels that dwarf the beautiful ‘Copacabana Palace’. More Police and private security than anywhere else, to no doubt protect the Tourist Trade! Arpoador, a big rock sticking out into the sea – Join hundreds of people and TV Crews from around the world watch the Sun go down over Ipanema, Leblon – Finally as the cloak of darkness spreads over you, hear the sound of the watchers on the rock clapping the gorgeous sunset. Ipanema and Leblon are two very good beaches. Ipanema, so very expensive because only two Kilometres in depth, has the great beach in front and a lovely lake with its cycle track all round it, right behind, then past that, the Statue of Christ and mountains. Leblon is the Knightsbridge of Rio, even richer than Ipanema, full of Bankers, business people and yet it is here – In the heart of rich man’s Rio that we find the altar of the poor man’s drink, ‘cachaï¿Â½a’.

 Distilled from humble sugar cane syrup, it helps the poor forget the hell of their worst hours. Cachaï¿Â½a, mixed with ice, lime and sugar, it becomes caipirinha – A great drink to give you a lift before going out, clearing your mind or even blowing your mind if you drink too much! Academia de Cachaï¿Â½a, Rua Conde Bernadotte 26, open midday to 3am, this is very best place to have the best cachaï¿Â½a with a choice of over seventy different types and barmen who really know how to mix the cocktails.

A crowded cycle track, the sun beating down, tanned youths with surf boards attached to their bikes, the sound of waves breaking on the beach, beautiful people, cycling, skating and jogging all around me – In fact on Sundays a three lane highway is closed by the beaches to enable the thousands of Cariocas to have enough room to move about in their various ways. Stop to have a cold beer, coconut or juice or watch some volley, as you cycle along this thirty Kilometre track beside the perfect sandy beaches. To go to beaches further out in the Barra, take the Surf bus that leaves ‘Largo do Machado’ twice a day and drops you off at the beach of your choice past Leblon and then brings you back later in afternoon.

 A lagoa (the Lake) behind Ipanema is just the place to go at night to have a low cost drink, meal and sometimes music in the various Kiosks near the water. But for a very special meal in a very good restaurant with ambiance and a perfect view over the start of Rio’s Jockey Club’s flood lit race track – with live music some days of the week – Three styles of food, Japanese, Pizza and European/Brazilian. Centro Gastronï¿Â½mico Victoria, Rua Mï¿Â½rio Ribeiro 410, Jockey Club Brasileiro, open from 2030 hrs, http://www.complexovictoria.com.br – Prices vary depending what you eat and drink but about average without drink 30$ a head. Less for Pizza than Lobster! Well worth a visit for a special night out. I love it and recommend it.

Finally, tucked into the arches of a viaduct at the bottom of Santa Tereza, that runs the last of Rio’s trams, that like the Routemaster in London, it will soon unfortunately disappear. So if you can – Take an exciting ride on this archaic yellow tram in the day time. This is also the bohemian/hippy club centre and a fantastic fun centre of music bars with low prices that goes on until whenever! Soon It’s 3am and how many caipirinias? So, do yourself a favour, don’t take the bus and be shaken and rolled !! – Pick up a taxi and get safely dropped back to where you are staying. That’s if you can still remember where you are staying?

About the author Tony Annis: Have camera will travel. Over the top but not yet over the hill. Past sixty five and still alive, my get up and go has not entirely got up and gone – like good whisky, I’m still going strong. Travelling through these global villages of ours is great adventure but to me it is the people that make this wonderful world, as well as the exotic places that I love to visit. See you over the next horizon, Tony.


Mac's Travel Reminiscences

MacMac is still not very well but is still e-mailing strong. In this month’s Globetrotter e-newsletter, he writes about American Samoa, his friend Frank adds some of his reminiscences about British Samoa and other random thoughts on travels that we love to hear about.

Sending picture postcards to self. For a while when travelling overseas I would go to a department store or cheapest place to buy picture postcards or go to travel bureau and see if they hand any free ones.

I would usually put down name of cheap budget place I stayed and how much and anything else I might forget and would have the foreign stamp on card date etc. This was before e mail. Unfortunately I wrote so small on some of the cards that I can’t make out what pertinent information I wanted to save, but here’s some notes that I made that I can read.

Apia Western Samoa, November 20 1978. Stayed first night at Hotel Tiafu US $19.26 and then moved next door to Appian Way Nala US $11.6l. The owner of the budget place was the sister of a famous sister that owned a more famous more expensive place in Apia.

In WWII Michener met this sister and supposedly got the idea for one of his characters in his South Pacific tales. Anyway, my landlady told me of a trip she and sister took to Rome to have an audience with the Pope (one for the public.) A friend of mine here in Washington DC who was a travel agent had booked an around the world trip for one of the officials in Western Samoa and had asked him to look after me. Mr Pinata Ah Ling, ex member of Agriculture.

He took me to beautiful government sponsored Hotel Tusitala (teller of tales) and then across the island to a beach where some of South Pacific was filmed etc. We passed cattle under Coconut Tree project. Samoans dressed in white carrying bibles were on the way to church where they sing beautifully. I was told Samoa has the most churches per capita of anyplace on earth including Rome. There was a new brewery operated by a German brew master. Valima (pure water,) was the name of Robert L Stevenson’s home on W Samoa.

Later while on my own a laughing Samoan policeman told me that Samoans consider it discourteous to drink or eat while walking. He was not reprimanding me but using this piece of information to open up a conversation with me. An American was running the Returned Serviceman’s Club instead of a Samoan veteran. To keep club open, they took in associate members that had not been in the service. He told me that he taught the children of man that befriended me and that this gentleman was dying and that is why he took a trip around the world and why so much of his conversation was about religion and how we should all try to get along. I am glad I got to meet him. If you write picture postcards to yourself write more legibly than I did.

Frank, also an American retired serviceman adds to Mac’s e-mail: British Samoa was one of the finest places in the Pacific. I was there from December 1942 to May 1943, then went to American Samoa to June 1943 next to Wallis Island French Polynesia and then in October 1943 back to American Samoa for one month, then to Maui until January 1944. I left there and went to Marshall’s for combat etc.

British Samoa was a great place. Frank explains that the woman who ran the expensive place in Apia was Aggie Grey. She was the girl friend of MG Charles F. B. Price, CG of Samoan area. He used to send his PBY, (airplane) over Apia to bring her over to his place in Am Samoa.

I still speak a little Samoan. It came in handy in early 90’s when I was working in Hawaii. A lot of Samoans live there. When they found out I could speak some Samoan they couldn’t do enough for me. I like British Samoa better than any place I was in WWII. When someone died, there would be a feast and I would go out to the village Luemwinga, can’t spell it, that is a phonetic version. It was about two miles from airport. If I heard the drums being beaten, they actually were hollowed out logs, I could tell which were from Luemwinga. I would go out to the village and go in the bush and shoot a couple pigs for them. I always made it to the feast. I was sort of adopted by the village. Have never been back to British Samoa but have passed through American Samoa several times, last time in December 1999. I could tell you many tales about the place…

Mac is a huge fan of Lew Toulmin who wrote book The Most Travelled Man on Earth wrote about a rare British (Scottish) Medal, The Order of the Thistle which is granted to only sixteen distinguished Scotsmen, making it the probably the most exclusive order in the world.

In one chapter of his book, he wrote about the last Japanese soldier hiding out in Guam – seeing Guam the hard way, living twenty eight years in a hole. The ironies of his situation are amazing. While Yoki crouched in his cave, planeloads of Japanese tourists arrived every hour delighted to sun themselves on Guam’s beaches just miles from his cave.

Within nine months of his return to Japan he married a younger woman. They took their honeymoon where many Japanese couples do – on Guam. His call up letter in Japan had read, “Leave home as if you were going out for a stroll. Do not pack. Do not say goodbye to your family.”

Nearby Johnston Atoll is a chemical weapons facility southwest of Hawaii and run by the US government and Raytheon. The only way to really see the island is to get a degree in chemical warfare and join Raytheon.

One time I wrote a fan letter to a deal lady that travelled on her own in China and wrote book I Never Heard the Temple Bells. She answered that she was leaving that morning driving to California.

Another interesting nugget: I read somewhere that Paul Warren of Pitcairn Island descendent of Fletcher Christian has two necklaces that include nails from HMS Bounty.

If you would like to get in touch with Mac, he is happy to correspond by e-mail when he is well. His e-mail address is: macsan400@yahoo.com


Write for the Globetrotters monthly e-newsletter

If you enjoy writing, enjoy travelling, why not write for the free monthly Globetrotters e-newsletter! The Beetle would love to hear from you: your travel stories, anecdotes, jokes, questions, hints and tips, or your hometown or somewhere of special interest to you. Over 14,000 people currently subscribe to the Globetrotter e-news in over 150 countries around the world.

The Globetrotter e-newsletter is completely free and you do not have to be a member of the Globetrotters Club to receive this. We are a not for profit organisation, run by unpaid enthusiastic well travelled volunteers. We are not affiliated with any commercial organisation. You will not be spammed as a result of receiving our e-newsletters and we do not sell, give or share our e-newsletter or membership list with anyone. Recommend a friend by clicking on: Join up for the free Globetrotter e-newsletter

Write for the Globetrotters Club e-newsletter! To see your story in cyber print, e-mail the Beetle with your travel experiences, hints and tips or questions up to 750 words. If you have photos, we can include up to 6 good quality JPEGs, and let us have a couple of sentences about yourself. Please contact: Beetle@globetrotters.co.uk


Review of The London Daily Telegraph Adventure Travel Show January 2007 by Globetrotter Roving Reporter Tony Annis

New regime, new management, new ideas! Only taking over the show from last November, so how did it work out? Did they rejuvenate it or did they blow it?

The Photographic competition exhibition was gone, bad news – good news the sound system was much improved in all the talk areas. Travel lecture open theatres, did well for Nomad and even attracted more audience. Not so good for lectures using slides but I’m told made little difference for the ones who used digital presentations. Travel Advisor Stand, with some of our members and committee members

Amongst Gap year, and the sports adventure stands were others that believed in sustainable tourism; in fact, now a days all companies say they believe in this type of tourism; some I believe more than others! Dragon Overland, Queensland and even Gap for grown ups, were among the many exhibitors.

Wanderlust Magazine, Editor in Chief, Lyn Hughes led from the front by not only by having her large stand but also by putting her travel Advice Theatre next to it and importantly kept the sides covered to concentrate attention on her speakers and it worked very well in her case.Dick Curtis

The Globetrotters Club had their own Travel Advisor Stand, (see picture left with some of our members and committee members) a little bit more out of the way than usual but it received many visitors and I hope new members. Personally I spoke to several who said they would check out the web site and think about joining. Dick Curtis who runs the London Globetrotter meetings (see photo below right) as usual did sterling work and organized everything with the new management. The members and committee covered the three days, each of them with an expertise in some part of the world or other.

Guys and girls from Adez fruit juiceGuys and girls from Adez fruit juice kept us supplied with cold juice which made up for the fact that food and drink is so expensive at the show. As is the custom with the Globetrotters Club, after the event in the evening, Matt our chair, guided us to a fine pub behind Olympia, without the aid of GPS and a compass – later I rolled off my bus outside my flat and thought a good night was had by all.

The climbing wall and the diving pool were good to see but I think the show lacked a few visual events; otherwise it is too much like one stand after the other. All the exhibitors were on hand to help or cajole us into going on to some amazing trip or other. Plus presentations on nearly Ice Wallevery place you could wish to visit.

Visitor numbers seemed a bit down, but the new regime (ATS Events, UK Ltd) is going to have a few Dive poolmore visitor participant companies in next year’s show, and that they will start to plan for this, as this year’s show ends.

How did it work out? I think the jury still out but as they only had from November to plan and as they are continuing the rejuvenation process, we will know by next years Adventure Show. Every show of every type, whether west end musical or travel show, needs a shake up now and again as nothing can stay the same without starting to look tired and the boring. Visitors need to think they need to come every year and not just once every five years or so.

About the author Tony Annis: have camera will travel. Over the top but not yet over the hill. Past sixty five and still alive, my get up and go has not entirely got up and gone – like good whisky, I’m still going strong. I am always available for writing and photography commissions and still work professionally in journalism and broadcasting.

See you over the next horizon, Tony, e-mail: tony@annis.co.uk


Long Serving Globetrotters Awards by Francesca Jaggs

While thinking of ways to celebrate Globetrotters’ Club’s 60th anniversary we came up with the idea of awarding people who have been members for 30 years or more, with a certificate. Our President, Janet Street-Porter has signed 17 certificates.

Using my own membership of exactly 30 years I was able to use my membership number of 1202 as a useful gauge. However, some members ended up with new numbers if they renewed slightly late at one point in our club’s history and the original numbers were destroyed. So, if you are one of these people and you know you joined before 1976 then please contact me: e11fdj@yahoo. co. uk We offer our sincere apologies to anyone omitted from the list below.

At our London meeting on 7th January 2006 we presented the certificates to those there, the rest will be sent out. One member, who was omitted deserves a special mention. She has been coming to our meetings in London for many years and has been a member since 1968. Joan McConn will receive her own presentation at a future meeting.

The list of long serving members:

  • Norman Ford
  • Jean Clough
  • Betty Dawes (Browning)
  • Joan McConn
  • Susan Mew
  • Anne Ross
  • Isabel Ramsay
  • Margaret Hayward
  • John Baker
  • John and Julie Batchelor
  • Jill Dunisthorpe
  • Sylvia McMaster
  • Francesca Jaggs
  • John Barnes
  • Winifred Manders
  • Malcolm Kier
  • Irene Richards

The Secret Seaside of Sao Paulo by Tony Annis

We dragged ourselves ever upwards and onwards, I thought my get up and go, with the help of Guarana and good whisky was still going strong; but rather than over the hill – I was finding it difficult too even get up this hill! My friends and I were on a steep walk that was just short of being able to be described as a climb – fifty minutes of mud steps, not cut out but worn into the so called path by travellers over the years, always at least eighteen inches in height. We climbed through a rising rain forest of trees and roots that would make their way up to a cold pool that was fed by a lovely waterfall, the highest of two that finally spilled their waters into the rushing river below. The roots would act as handholds or  footholds as we dragged ourselves up from the 35ºC at the start to a comfortable 27ºC at the top. This was the sort of tough but pleasant tramp that would be banned by Heath and Safety committees in the UK, but with care, no problem for anyone at all, not even for me! My companions were two lady lawyers, a female translator and a fit young man, arrogant and confident, much as I must have been at his time of life.

My brother had recommended me to visit Boissucanga, locally known as ‘Boi’ and stay in a lovely rustic house owned by ‘Jenny’ not far from the beach in this yet as unspoilt resort, used by ‘Paulistas’ as a weekend escape from their large pulsating city that is the driving engine not only of Brazil but also of the whole of South America. Around three hours drive from Sao Paulo or about nine from Rio de Janeiro, Boi is to the south, just passed Ilha Bella, near Sao Antonio. Boi comes after the fashionable towns of the ‘Costa Verde’, therefore much cheaper to stay, much less crowded and practically no foreign tourists. There is always a place to stay, whatever the size of your budget – Extremely well designed 5* small Hotels (for example Juquey Praia Hotel – R$ 300 [with breakfast] R$ 390 [with breakfast and dinner] per day); Pousadas [Guest Houses] (various standards of simplicity, from R$ 100 to R$ 200 per day) as well as Jenny’s very reasonably priced rustic haven (self- contained houses at R$100 per day).

No crowds on very different beaches, some with waves and some calm and the three Islands just offshore, make this just the resort to take some time out! Not to say there is nothing to do!

The three islands provide perfect picnic beaches, not spoilt by vendors of any type. We took our own beer, sandwiches, prawns and fruit. We swam, went snorkelling and generally explored the small area but mostly wallowed in the warm clear water. A short, pleasant, forty minute boat ride from the mainland and costing only about £6-00 a head to taken there and then to be picked up again in the late afternoon. Two days of my visit I spent enjoying myself on these relaxing three Islands.

Boissuganga, itself a small simple town but with a bank I was able to draw money out of with my plastic from its electronic cashier (Bradesco Bank). A curved empty beach, calm water, excellent simple bars right down by the water side with marvellous fish, prawns meals straight out of the sea and on to your table -The sound of the sea lapping on the shore, mixing with the gentle playing of guitars at the start of sunset. The splash of yellow and gold of the sky, reflecting off the locals as well as the water and the sound of their clapping as the sun went down and day turned into night.

This was the signal for the waterside bar (Parati), to awaken and the sound of Brazilian Popular Music, to drift across the moonlit beach. Brazilians love to party and as usual many of them joined in the singing – Dancing is something you cannot stop them doing once they hear the sound of exciting music.

Two of the evenings I thought I would pop out for a dance and though a small town, there were always three or four places one could go to dance. Music of all different types in Bistro bars round the town where I could dance the night away or least until the early hours of the morning, after which I would stagger home, not drunk, just exhausted from having such a good time with my lovely companions.

As I gathered my thoughts together, sitting on the bus awaiting it to start my journey back to Rio de Janeiro. I had made sure it was taking the coast road and I was sitting on the seaside of the coach so that I could see this lovely coast line as I made my way back north up the ‘Costa Verde’

Every now and again I discover or hear of a gem of a place, still not exploited or spoilt and I pass them on to the Globetrotters Club via the e-news or GT Magazine. So guys, Boissucanga is another such place – Why not, just go for it!

Send Jenny an e-mail for more information. jennym@uol. com. br & boijmr@aol. com .

All photos © by Tony Annis.


MEETING NEWS

Meeting news from our branches around the world.


July’s London meeting took place on the other side of Covent Garden at The Concert Artists Association, due to the building work at our usual Church of Scotland venue. The September meeting will also take place there, as the building work continues. The meeting was an opportunity for 8 club members to take us on a digital journey around the globe.

Kevin Brackley started the show with a trip through Iran and Pakistan, we saw Tehran’s big square and the ex US Embassy before taking in the beauty of the Esfahan mosques, the now destroyed city of Bam and some interesting roads in Pakistan near the border with Afghanistan where he tried his hand at firing an AK47 Kalashnikov.

Sue Baker then took us east to Nepal, where she flew into Lukla and then trekked to show us wonderful mountain Monasteries and the Himalaya, including Mount Everest, staying in stone built mountain huts along the way. Sue finished in Katmandu, home to colourful Buddhist stupas and Pottery Square.

Sheila Nicholls showed us another high altitude destination, Chile and the Atacama Desert, visiting San Pedro, the regions main town, from where she saw brilliant red coloured volcanoes. The Atacama region is also home to blinding white salt flats, places making furniture from cactus wood and the spectacular El Tatio geysers.

Raymond Martin brought us back across the Atlantic to Romanian Danube delta. This corner of Europe squashed between the Black Sea and Ukraine is not connected to the European road system and as such is mainly only accessible by boat. No doubt it is this inaccessibility that has contributed to it being a world heritage area that is home to more than 300 types of wildlife. Ray showed us the navigable rivers including the 1991 shipwreck of The Vostock.

After the break it was Globies resident Aussie Jacqui Trotter to take us down under for a trip she made with her Dad from Darwin back to her home in New South Wales. Her trip was at the start of the wet season which meant she saw water cascading off Uluru and the Todd River in Alice Springs with water in! She also showed us Katherine Gorge and The Devils Marbles, huge roadside boulders in the middle of nowhere. Jacqui showed us the now running again Ghan train snaking its way along before ending back at the Blue Mountains in NSW.

Rosalie Bolland’s fascination with waterfalls took her on an organised trip to see the Angel falls in Venezuela, we saw the actual aircraft that Jimmy Angel crash landed on top of the falls. Rosalie got some great views flying over the falls in a light aircraft and the taking a boat to see them from closer up, though the falls are so large she had difficulty getting them into one photograph.

Neil Harris took us back to the sub continent to visit Bangladesh, showing us that in fact it is not all just flooded as out TV pictures seem to show us there is some higher ground there, with markets and towns such as Cox’s Bazaar, where the people were fascinated by seeing their picture on his digital camera. Neil’s pictures showed us happy smiling people and some great beaches.

Ernest Flesch transported us to Yemen in the Middle East, we saw Palaces in the capital Sana’a, where the locals spend their afternoons chewing qat. Out in the desert of wadi hadramat we saw mud brick skyscrapers and mosques with red and white minarets and not forgetting camels. The men all carried arms and knives, which were on display in the shops, though don’t know how Ernest managed to sneak those back into the UK!

Many thanks to all the members who made it a very enjoyable afternoon.

By Padmassana

September’s meeting will take place on 3rd September at a change to our usual venue: Concert Artistes Association 20 Bedford Street Covent Garden London WC2E 9HP Start 3.00 pm

Jules Stewart will be talking about “The North-West Frontier and the Men who guard the Khyber Pass” Jules is a former Reuter’s reporter – now freelance and author of ” The Khyber Rifles: from the British Raj to Al Queda” and now working on a book about the Pundits.

After the break, Juliet Coombe will talk about “Sir-Lanka post-Tsunami – In a crisis, EVERYONE counts !” Juliet is a very busy freelance travel writer, photographer and publisher and more. She cleared her desk and flew to Sri Lanka to work as a volunteer with a charity group. A subsequent photographic exhibition was a complete sell out, and will build a heap of houses.

London meetings are held at The Church of Scotland, Crown Court, behind the Fortune Theatre in Covent Garden at 2.30pm the first Saturday of each month. There is no London meeting in August, but we will be back in September. For more information, you can contact the Globetrotters Info line on +44 (0) 20 8674 6229, or visit the website: www.globetrotters.co.uk


We are sorry to say that for the time being, New York meetings are suspended as Laurie really needs a helper. If you have some time to spare and are based in or near NYC, please contact Laurie on the e-mail address below.

For details of forthcoming meetings email newyork@globetrotters.co.uk or register for email updates, click here at our website.

New York meetings are held at The Wings Theatre, 154 Christopher Street (btw Greenwich St and Washington St), to the right of Crunch Fitness, in the Archive on the first Saturday of each month at 4 pm.


For information on Ontario meetings, please contact Svatka Hermanek: shermanek@schulich.yorku.ca or Bruce Weber: tel. 416-203-0911 or Paul Webb: tel. 416-694-8259.

Meetings are held on the third Friday of January, March, May, September and November. Usually at the Woodsworth Co-op, Penthouse, 133, Wilton Street in downtown Toronto at 8.00 p.m.


Due to bereavement in Christina’s family, we regret to say that Texas meetings have stopped pending further notice. If you have time to spare and would like to take over Texas meetings, please contact the Beetle on: beetle@globetrotters.co.uk


If you enjoy writing, enjoy travelling, why not write for the free monthly Globetrotters e-newsletter! The Beetle would love to hear from you: your travel stories, anecdotes, jokes, questions, hints and tips, or your hometown or somewhere of special interest to you. Over 8,000 people currently subscribe to the Globetrotter e-news.

To see your story in cyber print, e-mail the Beetle with your travel experiences, hints and tips or questions up to 750 words, together with a couple of sentences about yourself and a contact e-mail address to Beetle@globetrotters.co.uk


When I told people I was going to Slovenia, the reactions I got were similar: “Where?” “What? Is that a country?” “Hmm, never heard of it” and “What is that near?” My mother asked if it was dangerous and my brother simply laughed.

triple bridgeIf you don’t know where Slovenia is or you didn’t even know it existed, you shouldn’t be ashamed. It is one of Europe’s smallest countries with a population of less than 2 million. The capital city, Ljubljana, has fewer than 300,000 inhabitants. It is a “new” country in the sense that it has only existed as its own nation since 1991, when it became the first republic to separate from the former Federal People’s Republic of Yugoslavia.

Dragon BridgeSlovenia was fortunate in that it managed to gain independence without suffering from the war and genocide that befell its neighbours, Croatia and Bosnia. This is partially explained by the fact that Slovenia is ethnically pure relative to its neighbours: most people living in Slovenia are Slovene and Catholic. Further east, there was a patchwork of ethnic and religious groups that left no clear dividing lines.

After Slovenia’s plebiscite for independence yielded 88% in favour of breaking from the Yugoslav federation, there was a brief conflict with Belgrade dubbed the “Ten-Day War.” I asked for details, but Nikolaj (one of the Slovenes I befriended) told me it was not really a war. I wanted to know what it was like living through the separation, but he told me there were only a few skirmishes and less than 20 Slovenes died.

Nikolaj was extremely proud of his country and heritage. He insisted that he was “patriotic, not nationalistic,” although I began to doubt this assertion after he made a few comments along the order of “Slovenes only leave Slovenia to realize it is the best country and come back.” He was convinced that Slovene wine was better than French wine. He told me which of the songs playing at the bar were Serbian nationalistic anthems and which ones were Slovene folk songs.

horsesHe took me to a bar where there was a painting of Tito on the wall and the bartender forgot to charge us for our Laskov beers. Nikolaj insisted that I sample all of Slovenia’s drinks, including beers from the two national breweries (Laskov and Union) and several spirits distilled from blueberries and anise, whose names I would mention except they are utterly impossible to pronounce, spell, or even remember for that matter.

The beauty of the Slovene language is that it does not restrict itself with the requirement that words actually contain vowels. Words comprised entirely of consonants (e.g. trg, vrt, smrt) are fully acceptable, although Nikolaj tried to convince me that all these words contain “silent vowels.” Other words contain an unnaturally long string of consonants (e.g. odprto) or a fundamentally disturbing combination of letters (e.g. predvcerajsnjim).

I mean honestly. That looks like alphabet soup on crack.

grafitiThe Slovenes are friendly people and many of them spoke to me. In fact, they are extremely engaging, to the point that you oddly feel at home in Slovenia and never want to leave Ljubljana. This is what happened to Diego, an American who I met through Vladimir, a Slovene bartender at my hostel. Diego came to Ljubljana and loved it so much that he kept on coming back. Finally he just decided to stay for good.

Diego and Vladomir took me to the nice bars in Ljubljana. Considering the city’s small size, there areLake Bled surprisingly many. The hostel where I stayed (the Celica) is in the heart of the city’s alternative scene. When I read about the hostel in the Rough Guide, I was slightly alarmed because it mentioned the building used to be a military prison. I went ahead and booked a bed anyway because it was the cheapest place to stay. It turned out to be more of a cultural centre than a hostel, with music performances, art workshops, and a happening bar.

Outside of Ljubljana, the Slovene country is absolutely gorgeous. The scenery is stunning – lush, idyllic, and bucolic. Over half of the country is covered in forest and 40% is mountainous. There are alpine lakes crowned by cliff-top castles and island churches.

Slovenia is an easy place to fall in love with. It exceeded my expectations and the only disappointing part about my visit was that I had to leave Ljubljana. For now at least…


Trade Aid is a UK registered charity, which works with and supports Trade Aid Tanzania, a non profit-making Trust. Trade Aid supplies educational and material resources, and also volunteers from Europe. Our aim is to alleviate poverty in Southern Tanzania by creating educational and employment opportunities for the local community and assisting in the development of a sustainable tourist industry in Mikindani.

Below we describe a new seedling planting project we are helping with in Mikindani.

 African Blackwood/African Ebony, Dalbergia Melanoxylon and African Ironwood are all names for the tree that is locally known as Mpingo. The uses of this tree are endless and for this reason Mpingo is now one of Africa’s most endangered trees. Our advisor, Mr Thomas knows all too well the importance of protecting our natural resources and therefore Blackwood is his choice of seed for this season’s project in the tree nursery. The children (see picture below) from Singino and Mnaida Schools have started the seedling trays which will be potted into plastic pods in a few weeks. By the Autumn the saplings will be distributed around the schools in Mikindani for the next tree growing project.

 Conserving trees such as Blackwood is an essential practice if we are to benefit from its many uses:

  • Beehives- the tree is used as a hive. The honey produced is dark amber and strong flavoured.
  • Building materials- it is an extremely durable wood, also ant and beetle proof.
  • Fuel- the heat generated from Mpingo fires is so high that it can melt cooking utensils.
  • Crafts- nearly all Makonde carvings will be designed out of this wood.
  • Domestic use- clubs, hammers, spears, sticks, chess pieces
  • Dye
  • Fodder- the pods and leaves are used as animal fodder
  • Land improvement (green manure, mulch and nitrogen fixing)
  • Medicine- the roots are used to treat abdominal pain, diarrhoea and syphilis. The wood smoke is inhaled to treat headaches and bronchitis.
  • Musical instruments- piano keys, clarinets

‘By wise planning now we can insure that this valuable natural resource will maintain its vital role in the local ecosystem and be available for the future harvesting of mature trees for woodwork purposes.’


Back in January 2004 Martin Wright, one the club’s most sociable regulars at the London Meetings, royally entertained a packed Crown Court with tales of his marathon cycle ride to Australia. Many in that audience will remember his great photos, distinctive narrative style and his thirst for adventure. Well Martin is at it again – this time he’s go back to the land down under to ‘pick up his bike and have a look round’. I think too many cold winter nights provided the motivation to get back on the road! This is the fourth in an occasional series, based on Martin’s emails, and charts his offbeat approach to the road ahead.

5 May: Hi all. Have made it as far as Ayutthaya, 60 kms north of Bangkok. Previously I had spent a few days in Kanchanaburi – 120kms west of Bangkok and infamous because of the death railway and the bridge over the River Kwai. In the meantime I took a train to Bangkok to apply for a new passport as the old one was full. At the British Embassy, a huge building in a compound which seemed to take up half of Bangkok, I was given the necessary form to fill in and then had to part with almost 70 pounds sterling! Also had to wait five working days, which because of the bank holiday turned out to be six. If the buggers back in the U K had given me a 48 page passport which I paid for when I last applied I would have saved myself time and money.

While in Bangkok I stayed in a hotel in Chinatown overlooking the river – very nice, quiet and at night there was a cool breeze. During the daytime it was sweltering and I’ve found that it is much easier to cycle than walk in this heat. This all made a great change from the Khao San Road area which resembled a zoo although none of the animals are on the endangered list!

Chinatown was a great area for wandering around especially at night when the food stalls were operating. Found an eating place next to a Chinese temple where the food was delicious and the beer cheap – ate here three nights in a row and met the same people. One fellow was the local drunk who always had something to say, although I understood nothing I am sure he thought otherwise.

On Monday I left Kanchanaburi and cycled through Suphan Buri on to Ayutthaya where I arrived on Tuesday. Wednesday saw me back on the train to Bangkok to collect my new passport followed by a visit to the immigration department, which of course was some distance away to have my entry stamp put into my new passport. Back on the sky train, back on a boat, back on the train and back to Ayutthaya…glad to have this finished.

This morning I decided to make coffee in my room on my Trangia stove…not a good idea as it turned out. A Trangia burns methylated spirits and while I put the water on to boil I hung my washing out to dry. This took longer than expected, and when I returned the bedside cabinet was on fire! A bottle of water put out the flames and of course made a horrible mess – a clean up operation was in order and hopefully I have left no trace of my attempted arson. I still had enough water in the pan to make a cup of coffee thankfully. I am going to throw that Trangia away as it is the first time I have used it since leaving Australia, and it is bulky & heavy. Anyway the coffee from the hawkers is far better stuff! Am heading towards Cambodia where I should arrive in about one week…hopefully I will arrive without having burned down somebody’s guest house!

9 May: On leaving Ayutthaya my intention was to cycle in an easterly direction towards Cambodia but as I arrived at the relevant junction I was offered the choice; turn right for Cambodia or go straight ahead and visit northern Thailand! As I had not visited the north before I thought, ‘bollocks to Cambodia for now I like the look of the road on the map which runs along the border with Myanmar.’ It does present me with a slight problem as I will have to find a crossing point into Myanmar for a five minute, one hour or one day visit but on re-entering Thailand I will be given another 30 day stamp! This should give me plenty of time to reach Chiang Rai in the north before following the Mekong all the way back down to the Cambodian border.

At present I am in Sukhothai staying in a very quiet and peaceful guest house next to a river. My intention was to spend two nights here with one day for resting, however I will now be having at least three nights and two days here as I would like to ride out to old Sukhothai to visit the very old capital city. There are of course many good eating places; night markets and small restaurants where the food is of course brilliant and cheaper than chips! As yesterday I cycled further than I normally would in a single day, it was cool and I had a tail wind, I thought I might as well make the most of it, as it is the first day in Asia when the temperature did not reach 30c. It was a very cool and pleasant 29c. Soon after I reached the guest house a strange thing happened – it rained…not the English rain whereby it takes all day for one millimetre to fall. This was good old tropical rain and after one hour of rainfall the roads are like rivers. Soon after the sun comes out and within a short time it is blue sky and no sign of any rainfall.

On that note good bye to you all and have a nice day. Martin


Trip duration: 11 days Trip miles to date: 2,017 Miles since last update: 2,017

 As I’m writing this I’m drinking an extremely strong coffee in Rio Gallegos (no, I’d never heard of it neither), about 1,750 miles south of Buenos Aires and about 300 from Ushuaia. This is me, on the right of the picture.

These first few days in the saddle have been a gentle introduction, I think. The southern Argentinean roads have been unbelievably straight, set within a dead-flat terrain with strong winds and little traffic. The sense of distance (from home as much as Buenos Aires) has accumulated every day.

Did I mention the straight roadsFirst stop-over was courtesy of a tip from a fellow traveller (thanks Mick!) in Azul , 235 miles from Buenos Aires. The thermometer on the handlebars suggested 34 deg, verified by the perfect blue sky. I tried out the ‘helmet-cam’ on the way out of BA but I fear I’ve accidentally recorded over the footage……oh well, I was riding like a dork anyway.

I pulled into Azul about 5.30pm, and began searching the streets for a garage with an 8ft painted BMW sign, coupled with an 8ft Yamaha sign. I had no right to find it but these things have a habit of working out and sure enough, along a quite residential street I found “La Posta Del Viajero en Moto”….a mecca to adventure motorcyclists and charitably run by Jorge, his partner Monica and chief translator, daughter Polly. A “donation-box” exists on the wall, but no mention was made and I was left to discover it for myself.

I’m almost sad I found Jorge and his family at the start of the trip, as I fear I won’t enjoy such a genuine and warm welcome anywhere from here to Alaska. I turn up unannounced at 5.30pm on a Wednesday and greeted with excitement, interest and treated to an amazing asado (meat feast!) with the family. The bunk-house is covered in graffiti from previous residents and the visitor’s books (there are 3, and counting!) and all stuffed with the same sentiment. I feel honoured to have left my mark and signed “Brits Corner”…..

The next couple of days were spent speeding down to Viedma (pretty coastal resort town), then Commodora Rivadavia where I stopped an extra day to cruise around the Peninsula Valdès – a huge national park and home to several thousand elephant seals and penguins. Whale watching tours are popular here too.

The Argentineans are extremely friendly. I stopped for a coffee in Puerto Piràmede – see the picture left, and a chap excitedly introduced himself as Ernesto Scotti. It transpires his son is a fellow R-T-W bike and is in the Guinness Book of Records for a related record. We chat and gossip for a long time and it’s refreshing to be reminded that we are all basically the same, “citizens of the world” as Ernesto described it much better than I.

Yesterday I completed the biggest day in the saddle, about 500 miles down to Rio Gallegos. The terrain has changed subtly, and the sense of remoteness increased, but this is no third world region. The standard of living is still pretty high, especially anticipating what is to come in Bolivia and Peru.

The bike is running great. I’m slightly concerned with the speed of wear on the front sprocket and the rear tyre is also wearing quickly. I think both of these symptoms are a consequence of the extra weight the bike is carrying. Naturally I’ve packed too much crap and will shred as I go.

One last note – as I parked up last night in the secure hotel car-park I was pleasantly surprised to find another travellers bike with a Brit number plate. It belongs to Jeremy Bullard (http://www.fowb.co.uk/) who I believe is taking a break back in Blighty…..

Oh well, tomorrow I strike for Ushuaia and the end of the world.

If you want to know more about Greg’s travels: http://www.unbeatentrack.com/


Comprising of around 50 islands (750 if you count the archipelago of the Bahamas), the Caribbean is a real treasure trove when it comes to cruising. A rich variety of vistas, people and places await, along with swaying palms and idyllic beaches of golden sand. The network of islands in the Caribbean is in fact so extensive that it is possible to book several Caribbean cruises and avoid going to the same islands twice!

There are four basic Caribbean cruise routes used by cruise operators:

  1. Western Caribbean Cruise Route – Departing from seaports in Texas, Louisiana and Florida, the Western Route takes in the Yucatan Peninsula of Mexico, the island of Cozumel, the Cayman Islands, Jamaica, and any number of islands off the coasts of Honduras and Belize.
  2. Eastern Caribbean Cruise Route – One of the most popular Caribbean cruise routes, the Eastern Route typically departs from Florida and other seaports along the eastern seaboard of the United States. The route calls on destinations such as Key West, The Bahamas, Turks and Caicos Islands the Virgin Islands (including St. Thomas and St. Croix), and Puerto Rico.
  3. Southern Caribbean Cruise Route – This route normally commences at San Juan in Puerto Rico, and takes in many possible destinations along the Lesser Antilles and the Netherlands Antilles as far west as Aruba.
  4. Exotic/Long-duration Caribbean Cruise Route – This route takes in any/all of the above destinations, and can sometimes end in a different place to where the cruise started.

Given this broad assortment of destinations available in the Caribbean, it can be a bit overwhelming when trying to make that crucial decision on which islands to fit into your itinerary. After all, you don’t want to miss out on some true Caribbean gems, do you? So, whether you’re planning a short vacation or a longer cruise break away from home, here is a selection of ‘must-sees’ & ‘must-dos’ on your Caribbean adventure.

  • St Croix (Virgin Islands) – Take a night kayak trip in Salt River National Park and visit the first landing site of Christopher Columbus on his voyage to the New World.
  • Grenada– Although ravaged by Hurricane Ivan in 2004, Grenada is still well worth a visit for its scuba diving. You can explore the largest shipwreck in the Caribbean here and see an underwater volcano.
  • Virgin Islands – The Cinnamon Bay National Park offers excellent snorkelling opportunities. You can see a wealth of underwater life in the shallow waters around St. Thomas.
  • Jamaica – Why not try your hand at bamboo rafting in Montego Bay?
  • Puerto Rico – No Caribbean cruise would be complete without a visit to the world famous Condado Beach on the island of Puerto Rico.
  • Aruba – Want to find Caribbean paradise? How about relaxing on one of the 365 beaches that surround the Dutch island of Aruba.
  • St Kitts – Swim with the turtles in the waters around St Kitts and then relax on the pink sand beaches on this beautiful island.

Good luck with planning your trip and happy cruising. Metty Metcalfe is the webmaster for A to Z Cruises which is the No1 resource for Caribbean Cruise related Information on the Internet. Be sure to visit his site here:


The Royal Geographical Society (with IBG), in partnership with BBC Radio 4, offer you the chance to make that journey and to tell the world about it in a memorable piece of radio documentary-making. Each year the RGS-IBG and the BBC award the best idea for an original, exciting, and exceptional journey and we’re inviting you to join the great travellers who’ve already fulfilled their dreams. It’s important that the project takes you somewhere fresh, different and original – not just a holiday to the Greek Islands! It’s also a good idea to bear in mind where the five previous winners have been (such as Ladakh in 2005 and Madagascar in 2004) as we won’t award similar journeys this year. More details on the RGS-IBG website.

Your journey needs really to matter to you: we need to feel your passion and enthusiasm and Radio 4 listeners need to be fascinated. Bear in mind that the BBC already broadcasts a lot of documentaries about faraway places (listen to Crossing Continents and From Our Own Correspondent, for example, in order to gauge the style of Radio 4’s regular foreign reportage). When thinking up your idea, make sure it’s the sort of thing journalists rarely have the time to cover. Most reporters can only afford the time and money to make short visits to meet important people and don’t often get under the skin of local society.

The programme you’ll be making needs to tell your story – and that of the journey and the place you’ll be visiting (the tourist trail isn’t likely to be top of the judging panel’s list unless you can put an interesting new spin on it) – in a graphic and attractive way. Think of the audio potential in the idea – not just indigenous music and sounds (in reality they rarely sustain more than a few seconds), but how you are going to find interesting sounds within the substance of the journey (by keeping an audio-diary, for example). Radio is very good on atmospherics and imaginative pictures, but you need to think about what your journey and your destination offer to create those pictures.

Conditions

  • You’ll be travelling between January and July 2006.* We welcome travellers of all ages, but you must be able to travel safely and responsibly.
  • You must have a permanent UK postal address.* Interviews will be held in early December in London. You must be able to attend these interviews in person.* Applications from small teams rather than solo travellers are also accepted, but please make clear in your application if this is the case.
  • The award is for independent travel. We will NOT consider any journey joining a commercial expedition or pre-paid tour, including organised charity fundraising tours.
  • The final deadline for pitches is Tuesday, 27 September 2005.

Please send your pitches, either by email or by post, to: The Grants Officer, Royal Geographical Society (with IBG)

Email: grants@rgs.org Address: 1 Kensington Gore, London SW7 2AR Tel: 020 7591 3073 Full details are at http://www.rgs.org/category.php?Page=maingrants


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 We are sorry to say that Mac is not very well, but he is still e-mailing strong and recently sent the Beetle a collection of travel reminiscences. This, and next month is about China.

One of the times I went to China I did not hide my military connection but someone along the way before I left the states changed my category from retired military to “teacher”. I was travelling with an American woman who was actually a teacher in the Military Dependent Schools in Korea. She told me she taught Home Economics, health and sewing. When I was asked what I taught my mind went blank and then I recalled what she taught and I said: Home Economics, heath and sewing. My real teacher travel companion was asked her what she taught. She smiled and said: football, soccer, and wrestling. We were by then both laughing and the immigration inspector shook his head at us and left us.

Before we got on plane for China we were told to turn over any U.S. Military identification we had on us and to not take it into China. I hesitated to do this in case it could be reproduced and didn’t like giving it to someone I did not know, but had to make a decision in a hurry and nothing was going to stop me from seeing the Great Wall Of China. Someone later asked me if I had walked the whole distance of the Wall. (It is 4000 miles long!) It is wide enough for five horses (some say six as that is a lucky number in China) to pass and is 2000 years old.

In Hangchow, Mr Wu showed us a painting on the wall of at temple for famous Chinese General Yue Eeti as a young man. The painting showed his mother with a knife carving on the lads’ back the admonition in Chinese letters: “Always be true to your country.” Juanita, my friend, whispered to me: “That must have made a lasting impression” Ha!

We went to the Sick Duck restaurant in Beijing. It is called Sick Duck because it is near a hospital. There is also a Super Duck Restaurant, a Baby Duck restaurant and a Ruptured Duck Restaurant (I just threw that in!) all serving Peking Duck (Beijing Duck does not sound right.) The cook brings out the duck on a platter and then you applaud. I don’t know if you are applauding the dead duck, the cook or who.

Eunuchs (and there were 70,000 of them) at the time of the Ming destiny who allegedly carried their testicles about with them in a little pouch in the hope of being reunited with them in death. (You heard it here!)

When we got off plane in Hangchow a guide came up to us and asked “Are you the group of six?” We were the six that had gotten our tour thorough USO in Seoul, Korea. When I told them I did not have enough money with me to make the trip they said I could write a cheque. He put us in a van and we drove into town. When we saw a bicycle rider carrying a huge white wreath we asked what is that. He said: “It is for warning”. He then changed it to: “It is for mourning.” Mr Wu said he had put on his “wish list” to return to Hangchow as a guide (they had him working all over China) as he had a three year old son in Hangchow. He said his son was born early in the morning so they named him Xu Chiao Ming which means “The cock that crows early in the morning.”

Our guide Miss Cha was late in getting to the airport at Beijing. She had gone to the wrong airport. She breathlessly rushed up to us and apologized and said, “It is a slow boat to China.” She then said, “If you do not understand my English you can lump it.” We quickly realized she had memorized phrases she did not know the exact meaning to. She was a nurse but they needed guides badly so she had been assigned us. She asked who was from Great Britain and said, “I hope I warm the cockles of your heart.” We grew fond of Miss Cha and a friend, Lisa gave her a present. She asked if she should unwrap it and Lisa said yes. She started to unwrap it and her face turned red and she quickly rewrapped it. It was a pair of silk stockings. When we went to leave Beijing we asked Miss Cha if she would have breakfast with us in the foreign only dining room. She said ,”No, I have other fish to fly.” We warmed to all our guides except on those that tried to feed us propaganda.

Kneehow (phonetic) in Chinese means hello. In China, Carol who was from England, and had a beautiful voice would sing slightly risqué Cockney songs and George would sing “My old lady and the lady next door went down the river on a barnyard door singing Ki Yi Yippie Yi ” and nonsensical songs. Miss Cha who was trying to learn English (she had taught herself) wanted to learn some of these songs so she could sing them to her next tour group. As some were risqué Carol said, “My dear I don’t think you really need to learn these songs.” Les would give his excellent imitation of Peter Sellers imitating an Indian and his accent was hilariously correct. We should have been a USO troop. We laughed all the way across China.

In response to last month’s article about Diego Garcia, Mac reports that a friend who was in the Seabees building airstrip on island of Diego Garcia has just shown me an old yellowed newspaper account of it dated June 25 1978. This is probably more than you want to know about this isolated island. 700 Seabees were sent there to built the airstrip.

A Portuguese armada sailing around the tip of Africa in 1512 stopped here. Settled first by French in the late 1770s the island was occupied alternately by France and England following the American Revolution. The survivors of the sailing ship Atlas which was wrecked here on May 30 1786 joined the British expedition settled on the island at that time. Slavery was introduced the following year.

In 1787 a businessman from Mauritius saw opportunity on Diego Garcia in the form of coconut oil lacking but needed by Mauritius located 1,l00 miles southeast of Diego Garcia. He received permission to harvest and export Diego Garcia coconuts to Mauritius. Slaves were sent to pick them. A band of lepers accompanied the slaves because it was felt that conditions on the island might be healing to persons suffering from the disease. (By 1824 however, a government report said this was no longer believed true.)

Emancipation was proclaimed in mid 1830s in all British possessions. Former slaves were reported by one visitor to have far better living conditions than on other islands. Island was later used as a coaling station for ships. Coal shipped to the island.

When the Japanese invaded Ceylon off the coast of India in 1942 during World War II the Allies set up an outpost on Diego Garcia to monitor Japanese activity. In the 1950s both England and United States were concerned about Soviet activity in the Indian ocean where “over one half of the world’s sea borne oil is in transit at any given moment according to a Congressional hearing.“

There was a photo stating Donkeys introduced to Diego Garcia about 1835 when the islands slaves were emancipated today roam freely over most of the island (I am afraid I have passed on to you more than you want to know about Diego Garcia. Ha. Information is from Sun Herald Daily Living, Gulfport Mississippi (where Seabees had their headquarters) Sunday morning June 25 1978.

Beside the Seabee (branch of Navy that builds and does construction.) I have received an e mail from a different retired Navy man living in Italy. He says the highest point on Diego Garcia was only about five feet high and during the Tsunami he wondered how island fared but said he saw nothing in the news.

If you would like to contact Mac, he can be e-mailed on: macsan400@yahoo.com


Ryanair’s chief executive, Michael O’Leary has threatened a U.K. based Web site with legal action if it doesn’t take down comments pertaining to Ryanair’s pilots. O’Leary described by one commentator as one of the most combative CEOs to ever run a public company, has launched abuse-ridden tirades against critics, airports, competitors and regulators. In July, he called the company that runs Stansted airport outside London a “bunch of overcharging rapists.”

Back in January, O’Leary labelled a European Union ruling that one of Ryanair’s airport deals was anticompetitive as “Stalinist”. Despite his ability and willingness to dish out ranting tirades against other people and organisations, he doesn’t seem to take kindly to any criticism aimed at him. When the Professional Pilots Rumour Network, PPruNe a Web forum popular with Europe-based pilots, posted a discussion thread containing a mixture of informed insights and um….interesting comments on Ryanair’s relations with its pilots, the company’s lawyers sent the Web site a letter demanding that it take down the thread.

The letter argued that the statements on the thread were “untrue, unfounded, malicious and deeply damaging to the good name and trading reputation of Ryanair.” The letter added that Ryanair would move to gain an “immediate injunction” against PPruNe and claim damages if the Web site didn’t remove the thread, which discussed pilot unionization and pilot pay major issues for Ryanair. PPruNe removed the thread, but a new thread has appeared on the Web site concerning unionization at Ryanair. Ryanair didn’t immediately comment when asked why it acted to remove the thread. PPruNe owner Danny Fyne said: “Tactics like this never work in the long term. If we didn’t publish it, someone else would.”

To find other ways of increasing its revenue, Ryanair has been doing all it can to cut costs and boost revenue. This has included a cost-cutting move of the fitting of non-reclining seats. But one move that is generating criticism, both among customers and in the market, is a wheelchair levy on every ticket that Ryanair said it was charging to cover the cost of transporting disabled passengers to and from its planes. The levy appears to still be in place and though it’s not clear if it is around 70 euro cents or 50 euro cents, but if it is the lower number, the levy accounted for around 22% of the increase in operating profits at Ryanair in its June quarter, compared with the year-ago period.

Some commentators say that the wheelchair levy is a clear sign of desperation, but so are moves to cut the most basic of pilots’ perks. One measure has Ryanair pilots buying their own uniforms. Ryanair management is currently trying to prevent pilots from opting for their union to represent them in pay negotiations. In a recent memo, a Ryanair manager at Stansted airport said that paying union dues would amount to a waste of money: “If you want to waste 1,000 pounds we recommend fast women, slow horses or even greyhound racing. At least you’ll have a few minutes of fun,” the memo said.

Experienced pilots who need to receive expensive top-up training to fly Ryanair’s new series of Boeings have been told that the company won’t pay for their training if they opt for union representation, according to a person familiar with employee relations at Ryanair.


If you have enjoyed reading this e-newsletter, why not visit the Globetrotter website, http://www.globetrotters.co.uk/ and have a look at a copy of Globe, the bi-monthly printed newsletter sent to members only.

We also send members only a listing of all members, their contact details and countries visited and any help they can offer. Globetrotter members network by using this listing to contact each other in over 27 countries around the world to ask for travel advice, and possibly even meeting. As a member, you will receive a reduction on any Globetrotter meetings in your area, and will entitle you to have free Globetrotter calling cards to give your details to other travellers you meet while travelling.

Just US $29 or €24 buys you membership for one year. Contact membership@globetrotters.co.uk for more information.


Travel Reminiscences by Stanley Mataichi Sagara

My name is Stanley Mataichi Sagara. My Christian name was given to me by my first grade teacher who was probably from the Midwest and had never had an experience with Orientals. Apparently my Japanese name was too hard to remember for roll call so all the Japanese children in my class were given Christian names which we carried through out our lives.

Having been born in August I have just turned 81. I have visited 66 countries, however some of these countries are no longer separate, such as Macau or Hong Kong. Likewise Taiwan may revert back to China in the near future.

Some of my foreign travels were while I was on military duty and some were when I was on eye care missions with Volunteer Optometric Services to Humanity (VOSH), and the balance were when I took tours to these countries. Several trips have been repeats. I still consider Japan as my favourite country, the birthplace of my father and mother. I still have a number of third cousins in Japan as I have second cousins in Brazil. My second choice would be Austria, where I was when WWII ended.

I was in D Company, 506th Pcht Rgt, 10lst Airborne Division. When the war ended eight Japanese-American paratroopers were transferred to the 82nd AB Division because the l0lst was scheduled to go to the Pacific Theater to help defeat Japan. Due to our race we were assigned to Europe, hover about 6000 Japanese American GIs were assigned to various units in the Pacific War as Interpreters-Translators. Each was assigned two big Caucasian GIs as body guards who accompanied them everywhere (even to the latrine) so they would not be mistaken for an infiltrated Japanese soldier.

I would very much like to visit Scandinavia, I have only been to Denmark so far. I have been to Copenhagen and Helsinki on several occasions but only in transit.

My special travel equipment is a nylon bath cloth made in Japan. It is helpful to remove dead skin and helpful to scrub my back. ($6.00). In my travels I try to keep my carry on suitcase under 28 pounds which I send as checked baggage. In addition I carry a shoulder bag which can be converted to a small back pack where I carry my shaving kit and other items that I need at my first hotel, in case my checked bag goes astray. In this way I do not need to access my checked bag for three days if necessary. I actually weigh my packed bag and may remove some items if the bag is too heavy. I try not to take any item again if I did not use it on my trip, except clothing to suit the difference in expected weather conditions. I also live out of my packed suitcase for a week prior to leaving for the trip so that I do not forget some important item or if I think I can do without an item, it is left at home. If you cant carry your own bag, its too heavy, Better repack! I do not take whole tour books, only those pages that are pertinent. I like maps and take good ones which are helpful to help write my travel journals. A small compass is very helpful, especially at night or in such places as subways.

The longest travel trip I have taken was for 38 days, which is about the most I want to take. They say “When you start to look like your picture in your passport, its time to go home! Australia had many surprises for me. I knew it was a big country and that we would only see a portions of it but a lot of country is a desert. I did get cleaned out of my essential possessions while in Oaxaca, Mexico. As it usually is, I have to blame myself. I kept everything in my shoulder bag which I set down on the floor while I paid for my parking fee at a public garage. Less than a minute was all it took. No one saw anything, so they told me.

I have trapped pickpocket’s hands in my pockets, once in Sao Paulo, Brazil and again in San Miguel de Allende, GTO, Mexico. I learned that its better to chalk it up to experience rather than involve the police. They can tie you up for hours taking statements, by someone who is not fluent in English and they may want the money or article involved as evidence, which you will probably never see again since you will be moving on in a day or so.

While visiting in Korea I purchased several bargain priced sneakers which were irregulars or factory over runs. They were about two or three dollars a pair. I gave the salesman a US ten dollar bill and waited for my change. He asked me how I was fixed for sport socks and placed a bundle (probably 10 pairs) on the counter. I said I’m OK and still waited for my change. He puts another bundle of sport socks on the counter, still no change. I hesitate, he places a third bundle on the counter. I think he is not going to let that US ten get away from him. It became amusing to me the way it was turning our, when I should have been angry at the salesman. I finally took the several bundle of sports socks, the salesman kept my US ten and I have still a good supply of Korean sport socks (one size fits all).

As an American of Japanese decent we were not permitted to enter the US military service. In fact the ones who were in the service were given early discharges, except the few that fell through the cracks.

Later when the all Japanese-American Regimental Combat Team was formed we were permitted to volunteer to join. I was attending college at the time and was later drafted at Ft Leavenworth, KS. I was given the Japanese language test (we all took the test) but I did not pass so I went to Infantry basic training in CampShelby, Hattiesburg, Mississippi. On my first pass to Hattiesburg I got off the bus and had to use the restroom. I only saw signs for BLACKS ONLY and WHITES ONLY but nothing in between. My first experience in the segregated south. I used the toilet in the local USO which had no colour bar.

Upon finishing basic training I volunteered for the Paratroopers, mainly because I could double my pay (Jump Pay was $50.00) My parents and younger siblings were in a government operated concentration camp near Cody, Wyoming with any income so I was sending them part of my pay check each month. They could purchase some items in the camp canteen or order from the catalogue sales or ask their friends to do the shopping for them outside the camp.

After the war I transferred over to the newly formed US Air force and completed my 20 years of military service. I joined the Lions Club soon after I retired and one of the projects we had was collecting donated eye glasses. No one could tell me what happened to the eye glasses after we collected them.

I later discovered that the Volunteer Optometric Services to Humanity (VOSH) a group of eye doctors and lay personnel actually go on eye care missions to third world countries to examine patients and give out recycled eye glasses, at no cost. I have been on some 16 eye care missions to some very interesting places, such as India, Thailand, Ecuador, Peru, Paraguay, Bulgaria, Ukraine, Russia, Guatemala, Honduras, Mexico and many other countries.

I must point out that we do pay our own way but sometimes we get reduced air fare or our sponsoring organization may take care of food and lodging. On each trip we have the option of taking a side trip to visit some interesting places.

Mac and Stanley Sagara

I also joined Friendship Force International, an organization started by Pres Jimmy Carter. There are clubs all over the world. We visit other club members as a group and they in turn visit other clubs around the world by mutual agreement. Usually a week of hosted family visits. I went with the club to Russia for three weeks and on another trip I went to Freiberg, Germany in the Black Forest and to Oltzysn, Poland where we met some very nice people who really like Americans.

Apparently I do not have a face that people think of as typical American. Although I tell them I’m from America they still question my origin so to make it uncomplicated I just tell them “Mongolia” which satisfies their curiosity. There is more to this story, but this will have to do for now. Maybe later I’ll think up some more things about my travels. Stanley Mataichi Sagara (the Mongolian).

Footnote by Mac: The ‘Arab’ in the picture is Stanley Sagara. He brought the Arab outfit in Tangiers and it is genuine although I think it is Palestine rather than Moroccan garb Another friend William “Mike” Westfall took the picture and put in the caption. It was taken at our small AFRH-W Halloween Party. We do not dress like that every day (I do but not the others!)

If you would like to contact Stanley, he is happy to answer e-mails on: smsagara2@aol.com

An Appeal for Help in Rwanda by Michael Rakower

Here is an appeal by Michael on behalf of the American Friends for the Kigali Public Library (the AFKPL) for help creating Rwanda’s first public library. Michael is a regular contributor to the Globetrotters e-newsletter.

My wife and I recently returned to the United States from a one-year journey through Africa. During the last three months of the trip, we enjoyed the privilege of working in the Prosecutor’s Office of the United Nations International Criminal Tribunal for Rwanda. As part of the job, I poured through reams of scholarly texts, investigators’ reports and trial transcripts and interviewed witnesses during two trips to Rwanda. The more I learned, the more shocked and disgusted I became. The more I thought about the events that occurred, the more I questioned humankind’s decency, its purpose, and its future. In Rwanda, I met with a man who watched his mother bludgeoned to death, with a woman repeatedly raped and with a man who snuck his family across the Congolese border in oil drums. Even now, I sometimes lie awake wondering what is wrong with all of us. How can we allow these things to occur? Who among us is willing to participate in such acts? Who among us seeks to profit?

My understanding of the Rwandan genocide developed in stages. After reading about the country’s cultural history and the events that occurred leading up to and during the genocide, I finally started to comprehend what these murderers sought to accomplish. It may sound naïve and even a bit stupid, but until that point I never could comprehend one person’s desire to destroy another. Suddenly, the events of the Holocaust, which I had read about, spoken about and felt sorrow over for years, took on a cold reality. For the first time, my brain clicked into focus and I understood the mindset of a people that sought to destroy systematically the entire population of its self-defined enemy.

With this realization in mind, I visited Rwanda and saw a country devastated by its own havoc. Years after the tragedy, a palpable sense of ruin hangs in the air. Commerce functions at a virtual standstill. Street hawkers carry a threatening gleam in their eyes. Were they once machete-wielding murderers? You can’t help but wonder. Bullet-ridden, pock-marked homes and sidewalks with bullet casings protruding from the ground are common sightings. One senses that so many of Rwanda’s people fell so far below the edge of decency that they no longer know how to live without abuse. One wonders what will be the next phase in the struggle between the Rwandan people. Then one realizes that the simmering depravity that plagues Rwanda is not localized to that country. So much of Africa has endured horrific violence. Rwanda’s western neighbour, the Democratic Republic of the Congo, is the inspiration for Joseph Conrad’s Heart of Darkness.

Having returned to the United States armed with little but a sense of helplessness and the desire to cause positive change, I teamed up with some dedicated people and joined the American Friends for the Kigali Public Library (the “AFKPL”). In connection with a Rwandan chapter of the Rotary Club, we are working to build Rwanda’s first public library. It is our hope that the library will serve as a place of solace for the wounded, a haven of intellectual growth for the curious and bedrock of enlightenment for all. We have already begun construction on the library, obtained commitments for book donations from publishers and we have raised approximately $750,000 of our $1,200,000 budget.

If anyone would like to donate his or her time, money or books to the cause, please do not hesitate to contact me at mrakower@hotmail.com.

We have more information about the AFKPL, which includes its contact information. If you would like to see this, please e-mail me. Also, for those of you living in England, an organization at the University of Oxford called the Marshall Scholars for the Kigali Public Library is contributing to the new library. Zachary Kaufman (zachary.kaufman@magdalen.oxford.ac.uk) is the contact there.

As a fellow Globie, I appreciate your support. Together we can cause positive change.

Sincerely, Michael Rakower


FAQ's about the Globetrotters Club? What are your criteria for membership?

We don’t have any criteria, anyone can join all we ask is that, they pay the membership fee, which is to cover the costs of running the club, any suplus or profit we make is used to the benifit of all members.

Some travel clubs may require that members spend a minimum period travelling, we do not.

By joining the club you will receive a copy of our membership listing, detailing members preferances.

Please visit our FAQ page for more Q&A’s about the club or have a look around our website, where we have over 80 pages of information.

If you have any specific questions that you can’t find on the website then please feel free to ask a more specific question. E-mail: faq@globetrotters.co.uk


The Canadian Arctic by Robert, a former Chair of the Globetrotters Club

As I write this I am crossing the Mackenzie river on a ferry on the way to Inuvik, Northwest territories, several hundred miles north of the arctic circle and as far as the road goes north in Canada. It’s about 12:30 am and the light still shines bright here. Twilight is my favourite time of day and I have just enjoyed six hours of it as I drove further and further north. Shortly it will become lighter and lighter again as the seemingly eternal dawn takes over from the eternal dusk I love no place like I love the north-it really brings out my soul and makes it sing. I left Dawson city this morning. The distance from Dawson to Inuvik is longer than from Anchorage, Alaska to Dawson. I have enjoyed every minute of it–the mountains, the wild fall colours, the quiet, the sight of the occasional moose or fox or caribou, all of it. Most of all, I love the closeness of the people up here.

I stopped about 100 miles north of the arctic circle to help three Eskimos who had a flat. Their uncle had borrowed their jack and forgot to put it back. My lug wrench and jack didn’t fit so we flagged down two cars-a New Zealander furnished the lug wrench and a British Colombian furnished the jack. We used the occasion to have a kind of party and I distributed beer from my ice chest. The Eskimos told us that right here in this gorgeous place where they broke down is where the hundreds of thousands caribou would migrate in just a few days time. I hope that I will be able to see it – it was a lovely experience and was probably my favourite experience in fixing a tire. In many other parts of the world people wouldn’t stop at all; they would be full of fear and suspicion about being robbed or killed or maybe just numb from the demands on their soul where they live. Here it is life or death, and people are used to helping each other and being available for each other. I remember when I first arrived in the north of pulling over to the side of the road in the winter to take a leak and having several cars stop and ask me if I needed help. It feels so very very good to be here! Even though I left Alaska 13 years ago, I still carry my Alaska driver’s license, and have not doubt that it will always be my real home.

To get in touch with Robert, contact the Beetle: Beetle@globetrotters.co.uk , but in the meantime, if you have a tale to tell, share your travel experience with the Beetle!

Want to join the London Committee? Already a member of the Globetrotters Club? We don’t say no to people who have some time to commit and can offer some help! Please contact Beetle@globetrotters.co.uk


Free London Museums: Museum of Childhood

Museum of ChildhoodTeddy Bear Centenary in London: the centenary of the teddy bear is being celebrated with a major exhibition at London’s Museum of Childhood, Bethnal Green (March 29 – December 31).

The exhibition features about 400 bears, from some of the oldest surviving examples to present-day models, plus ‘celebrity’ bears such as Winnie the Pooh, Paddington, and Aloysius from the TV series “Brideshead Revisited”.

The Museum of Childhood is a branch of the Victoria & Albert Museum. It is open daily except Friday. Admission free (Some events carry a separate charge).

Tel: 0208 983 5200.

Website: Museum of Childhood

First Published: Feb 27, 2003

Upcoming exhibitions include:

Grand Canyon Sky Walk

Glass bridge grand canyonSpotted by Frank in the US:

The Glass Bridge The Glass Bridge Construction of the began March of 2004 and is estimated to be completed by early 2006.

On completion, the Glass Bridge will be suspended 4,000 feet above the Colorado River on the very edge of the Grand Canyon. map of grand canyon

On May 2005, the final test was conducted and the structure passed engineering requirements by 400 percent, enabling it to withstand the weight of 71 fully loaded Boeing 747 airplanes (more that 71 million pounds).

The bridge will be able to sustain winds in excess of 100 miles per hour from 8 different directions, as well as an 8.0 magnitude earthquake within 50 miles. More than one million pounds of steel will go into the construction of the Grand Canyon SkywalkGrand Canyon Skywalk

* Will accommodate 120 people comfortably (how comfortable would you be?) * Built with more than a million pounds of steel beams, and includes dampeners that minimize the structure’s vibration * Designed to hold 72 million pounds, withstand an 8.0 magnitude earthquake 50 miles away, and withstand winds in excess of 100 mph * The walkway has a glass bottom and sides…four inches thick

First Published: Dec 23, 2005

The Skywalk has now been completed see http://www.grandcanyonwest.com/skywalk.html

Sadly cameras are not allowed on the bridge.

“Personal belongings, including cameras are not allowed on the bridge. To protect from dropping any items into the canyon or onto the glass, you will be asked to store your items in the provided lockers. “

 

Meeting News from London by Padmassana February 2007

Another month when there was standing room only in Covent Garden to hear two excellent talks. Bradt guide author David Atkinson showed us what there is to see and do in Bolivia, including the shack where Che Guevara died and to show us the Butch and Sundance trail. For those more into beautiful scenery we saw the Salar De Uyuni along with the “Salt Hotel”, the National parks along with the trekking opportunities and a death defying mountain bike descent. For more about David you can visit his website at www.atkinsondavid.co.uk

After the break Globies welcomed back Juliet Coombe, last year she talked to us about dropping everything to go to Sri Lanka and help in any way she could after the tsunami. Her talk this time was about how doing that has changed her life, including meeting her Sri Lankan husband and living in Galle. Juliet explained that Galle Fort actually survived the tsunami intact because it is built of ships ballast and coral. The cricket ground near the fort and other areas close by were decimated, but they are coming back to life. The tsunami has made some interesting possibilities for divers including seeing a fleet of buses and what is now an under water church. The railway that we saw pictures of has now been repaired and Juliet’s message is that Sri Lanka does not want charity, but it does want visitors to return for their holidays so that the people can rebuild their lives with dignity.

March 2007

This month Simon Banks showed us his cycling trip to China, showing us how it was in cities like Shanghai and how just a few years later they have become ultra modern, with neon lit skyscrapers. Shanghia now also boasts the world’s fastest train; the Maglev which delivers travellers from the airport to the city. Simon loves Chinese food and advised us to always ask for “Number 31” from the menu, saying it’s always different.

After the break Globies welcomed back Alistair Humphreys – Cycling the world. This was a humorous alphabetical talk, an A-Z dip into his 46,000 mile, 60 country trip around the Globe, taking in delights such as the Salt Hotel in Bolivia and trying to ride his bike with his eyes closed across the salt flats of Salar de Uyuni, just because he could! He also showed us abandoned towns in Russia and the town of Mullet in Albania. You can read more about Alistair’s travels at www.roundtheworldbybike.com

By Padmassana

Next Meeting: Saturday, 14th April

Jessica Boyd – The Zabbalen, Cairo’s rubbish collectors and recyclers – Jessica, with Bill Finnegan, spent three weeks with this indigenous Cairo community and Jonathan Kaplan – A Surgical sojourn in Iraqi Kurdistan mountains Jonathan works in remote parts of the world, under the extreme conditions of battlefield and disaster zones. He has written vivid, wryly funny accounts of survival his own and patients in “The Dressing Station” +“Contact Wounds” and is surgeon, teacher, writer, TV medical advisor, photographer journalist and documentary film-maker.

London meetings are held at The Church of Scotland, Crown Court, behind the Fortune Theatre in Covent Garden at 2.30pm the first Saturday of each month. There is no London meeting in August, but we will be back in September. For more information, you can contact the Globetrotters Info line on +44 (0) 20 8674 6229, or visit the website: www.globetrotters.co.uk


MeetingNews from London by Padmassana

February 2007

Another month when there was standing room only in Covent Garden to hear two excellent talks. Bradt guide author David Atkinson showed us what there is to see and do in Bolivia, including the shack where Che Guevara died and to show us the Butch and Sundance trail. For those more into beautiful scenery we saw the Salar De Uyuni along with the “Salt Hotel”, the National parks along with the trekking opportunities and a death defying mountain bike descent. For more about David you can visit his website at www.atkinsondavid.co.uk

After the break Globies welcomed back Juliet Coombe, last year she talked to us about dropping everything to go to Sri Lanka and help in any way she could after the tsunami. Her talk this time was about how doing that has changed her life, including meeting her Sri Lankan husband and living in Galle. Juliet explained that Galle Fort actually survived the tsunami intact because it is built of ships ballast and coral. The cricket ground near the fort and other areas close by were decimated, but they are coming back to life. The tsunami has made some interesting possibilities for divers including seeing a fleet of buses and what is now an under water church. The railway that we saw pictures of has now been repaired and Juliet’s message is that Sri Lanka does not want charity, but it does want visitors to return for their holidays so that the people can rebuild their lives with dignity.

March 2007

This month Simon Banks showed us his cycling trip to China, showing us how it was in cities like Shanghai and how just a few years later they have become ultra modern, with neon lit skyscrapers. Shanghia now also boasts the world’s fastest train; the Maglev which delivers travellers from the airport to the city. Simon loves Chinese food and advised us to always ask for “Number 31” from the menu, saying it’s always different.

After the break Globies welcomed back Alistair Humphreys – Cycling the world. This was a humorous alphabetical talk, an A-Z dip into his 46,000 mile, 60 country trip around the Globe, taking in delights such as the Salt Hotel in Bolivia and trying to ride his bike with his eyes closed across the salt flats of Salar de Uyuni, just because he could! He also showed us abandoned towns in Russia and the town of Mullet in Albania. You can read more about Alistair’s travels at www.roundtheworldbybike.com

By Padmassana

Next Meeting: Saturday, 14th April

Jessica Boyd – The Zabbalen, Cairo’s rubbish collectors and recyclers – Jessica, with Bill Finnegan, spent three weeks with this indigenous Cairo community and Jonathan Kaplan – A Surgical sojourn in Iraqi Kurdistan mountains Jonathan works in remote parts of the world, under the extreme conditions of battlefield and disaster zones. He has written vivid, wryly funny accounts of survival his own and patients in “The Dressing Station” +“Contact Wounds” and is surgeon, teacher, writer, TV medical advisor, photographer journalist and documentary film-maker.

London meetings are held at The Church of Scotland, Crown Court, behind the Fortune Theatre in Covent Garden at 2.30pm the first Saturday of each month. There is no London meeting in August, but we will be back in September. For more information, you can contact the Globetrotters Info line on +44 (0) 20 8674 6229, or visit the website: www.globetrotters.co.uk


Overseas Meetings

We used to have meetings in New York City and New Braunfels, Texas. Regrettably, after having done a superb job, neither organiser is able to give their time to Globetrotter meetings. If you are based in New York or New Braunfels and have the time to commit to pick up where our previous organisers left off, we’d love to hear from you – please see our FAQ or contact our the Branch Liaison Officer via our Website at Meeting FAQ. If you are based elsewhere and are interested in starting a branch of the Globetrotters, please feel free to contact us.


Meeting News from Ontario

For information on Ontario meetings, please contact Svatka Hermanek: shermane@schulich.yorku.ca or Bruce Weber: tel. 416-203-0911 or Paul Webb: tel. 416-694-8259.

Meetings are held on the third Friday of January, March, May, September and November, usually at the Old York Tower, 85 Esplanade (It is at the south-east corner of Church & Esplanade – 2 blocks east from the Hummingbird Centre at 8.00 p.m. Meetings are held on the third Friday of January, March, May, September and November. Usually at the Woodsworth Co-op, Penthouse, 133, Wilton Street in downtown Toronto at 8.00 p.m.


The Birth of Saudi Arabia – Filming in the Desert by Tony Annis

The first hurdle nearly became my undoing – Customs are notoriously difficult with film crews but when one of the cases slipped, broke open and bullets spilled on to floor around the custom’s officer’s feet, I knew by his bulging eyes he was about to take an ugly pill and be very, very difficult. After a spluttering that seemed to go on forever, there followed a torrent of Arabic that flowed over me like raging tide. I let him run out of breath before I attempted show him my papers, permissions in both Arabic and English in what seemed to no avail. However, after a time he did calm down and I explained to him, “It is all pre 1915 and the bullets are blanks” – This did not impress him at all but he finally let the rifles and blanks through to my assistant, who moved like lightning to put them on a truck and roared off to our base. If I thought my troubles were over I was wrong. I had hoped he would just read the permissions and let the other boxes through. As I reached to push a large industrial trolley out of the Custom area, he stepped in front and motioned for me to open them. I showed my papers again and he again told me to open crates in what probably was exasperated Arabic. Stalling no longer, he opened the crates. The first one contained Lewis machine guns, belt ammunition, for the use of, etc, he rushed to another opened that and saw explosives of the Special Effects Dept. He threw a major tantrum, shouted, men rushed up and he hadn’t even reached the very large crate that contained the Artillery piece!

About five years ago, just after it became religiously correct to play music and TV was up and running, though mostly programmes showing the Mosque or the Royal household. McMillan Films had taken me from the cold of a London winter to the heat of Saudi Arabia to help in making a Drama Documentary about the ‘Birth of Saudi Arabia’ and ‘King Abdulaziz ibn Saud’ who reigned for over fifty years and was a remarkable brave clever soldier, religious leader and statesman and he was both a good friend of Winston Churchill and President Roosevelt. A remarkable well informed man on world affairs the king had two radio operators, whose job it was to monitor world news and give a summary to him every night of the week. My job as 1st Assistant Director/Production Manager was to help organize and make it all happen – With the help of course, of a Regiment of Cavalry, some of the Camel Corps and two battalions of infantry from the Kingdom.

Thanks to Customs, a little rescheduling was needed. So we started with what we had, rifles and blanks. The king had to clear the bandits off the Caravan Trails and make them safe for trade and this became one of our first scenes.

The hiatus with the Customs’ continued, it was more than their ‘jobs worth’ to let our weapons, props through – So we had to make appointments higher up the food chain, to deal with this problem and as with many things in the Kingdom, this took some time.

In this down time between appointments the Producer, Michael McMillan and I went to see the Camel races – Sand instead of grass track and little boys were the jockeys, other than that it was just like a racecourse in England! We were also invited to a sumptuous lunch at a GPS location in the desert, a three hour drive seeing no one or anything but sand but on arrival we joined a couple of thousand others for sweet tea, on a carpet, by a log fire; hundreds of miles, maybe thousands from the nearest forest. A traditional meal of Mutton, Camel, exotic salads and fruits both to eat and drink; laid out in the tents. Each tent held about four hundred men and of course no women present at all. Cross legged on the carpeted interior, we discussed the Euro and the probability that it would take fifty years for Europe to become a federation! After lunch a strange sort of singing, chant filled the air and the Prince, courtiers started to sway, swords in the air. Suddenly, I was offered a sword, put in the middle and before I could worry if I could do the dance and not slice anyone with my weapon, I was amongst them. The clash of swords, the swaying of bodies to the slow drum beat, the thrusting intrusion of a news camera, this I thought, is what it’s like when you dance with a Prince!

The heat seemed stifling, the sun was trying to bore its way through my Tilley hat, the sweat was sticking to my back, I tried to clear my parched throat; before starting my radio check. The stillness of the desert was only broken by my Walkie Talkie radio, “Turn over sound”, “Sound rolling”, came the reply, “Action Cavalry”, “Turn over cameras, stand by special effects”, I said . The horses appeared, from a walk, gathered pace into a cantor and as they approached the camera and myself the cavalry became a thunderous noise of drumming hooves with dust enveloping both man and beast. Special effects joined in and from what had been a dead silence of a few moments ago was now a cacophony of explosions, ground shaking, men shouting their battle cries, the smell of cordite in the air caching in your throat, your adrenalin pumping as this regiment of horses sweeps by only passing a few feet away. A famous General once said, “The only thing worse than a battle won, is a battle lost”. Our battle with the customs now over we had started to film our horse and camel charges and the reason I had time to take these photos is that these set pieces take time to set up. Like real soldiering: filming is all about ‘hurry up and wait.’ The shot of the single charging warrior, I sometimes put on the front of an envelope that contains my CV – With a balloon coming out of his mouth, the words ”My CV must get thru” in it.

King Abdulaziz was the first person to put machine guns on moving vehicles. Model T Fords had Lewis guns set up on them, so they could be moved about the battlefield. So with his small force but with cannon, machine guns, the latest rifles of the time, he out thought as well as out fought his enemies.

We set up an ambush and made use of our Lewis guns, the ordinary Saudis so peaceful now, we found it most difficult to teach them to pretend to fight but they certainly died well in our ambush! Of course this scene was cut from the film, as they did not want the real story warts and all.

The Cavalry were normally used in demonstrations of horsemanship, in Royal tournaments etc. So they really enjoyed riding the desert and taking part in mock battles and too be very honest I also thought myself privileged to be enjoying all the fun of old style warfare but without the casualties or consequences.

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About the author Tony Annis: Have camera will travel. Over the top but not yet over the hill. Past sixty five and still alive, my get up and go has not entirely got up and gone – like good whisky, I’m still going strong. Travelling through these global villages of ours is great adventure but to me it is the people that make this wonderful world, as well as the exotic places that I love to visit. See you over the next horizon, Tony.