In a previous edition of the eNewsletter I asked if any of you had helpful tips, anecdotes or information on travelling to Antarctica…to help me investigate trip. Well Harold very promptly sent me this mine of information and I thought I’d share it with you all – maybe we can get something of a thread going here…

Thanks very much Harold,

The Ant

I haven’t been to Antarctica, but I hung around Ushuaia for a week with a friend in middle or late November of ’06. We had heard that you could get last minute cruises for as little as half price if you went straight to Ushuaia. It was true! We were offered a $6000 cruise (11-days) for $3000. There are many companies and many different cruises. We had researched it all on the net beforehand and knew just what we wanted. Most cruises there were deeply discounted, but seldom down to half price. We wanted to see South Georgia Island, especially the spot where Shackleton landed his small boat before crossing the mountains to the whaling station. That particular cruise was discounted only 25%, so we decided not to go. Some cruises never step foot on Antarctica, just look at it from a distance, maybe land on an outlying island or two. Do you want to see penguins? If so, what kind, what species? We wanted to see the King Penguins, which would have to be another season, not November. Great penguin (another species) viewing on a short, inexpensive day trip out of Punta Arenas, Chile, which used to be the richest city in the world per capita. If you go there, see the Shackleton Bar in the best hotel on the central plaza. And see the rich man’s house a block away, now a museum. Don’t sign up for a trip to Torres del Paines Nat. Park from Punta Arenas. Take a bus to Puerto Natales, find your own hotel (starting around $10) and book a trip to the park from there, so you get a longer day in the mountains. Or rent a car for the day in P.N., but car rentals in Chile are double the cost in Argentina. Usually they won’t let you take a car across the border. A great cruise along the fiord west of Puerto Natales costs $50 for the day, but a better price can likely be negotiated at the dock the day before. The day includes a lunch stop at a working sheep ranch. Bring your own lunch and save a bundle, then use your lunch time for pictures of the abundant bird life and the sheep dogs. You’ll see two glaciers that come off the Southern Ice Cap. One reaches the sea, and you can get within a half kilometre. Bring rain gear. Icebergs on the sea. Torres del Paine is truly spectacular, but your chances of seeing the Torres are only about 10-20%, due to constant fog and overcast. We lucked out.

Back to Ushuaia. I found a hostel for $10 a night. My friend opted for one at $60. Talking with the locals, the town is booming, with a 30% increase in tourists each year, so prices are going up fast, and the season keeps getting longer and longer. We thought we were early enough to beat most of the tourists, but before we left my hostel was full up and booked for the rest of the season. So do get a reservation. My place was the cheapest in the whole city (50,000), yet plenty adequate. Nothing lacking. I doubt anything in Ushuaia would be sub-par. The whole place is new. Almost nothing old or run-down. Place is cold and rainy most of the time. And windy, very windy. Take the ski lift to the top (about 2000′) and look for the pet “eagle” at the little cafe on top. He’s free to go, yet hangs around. Good pictures. Otherwise not much of interest in the area for me. It’s worth a day, no more, unless ya gotta stay, looking for deals to Antarctica.

I’m not a member [of Globetrotters], but was for several years in the 1960’s. Write if you got Q’s.

Harold Dunn

San Diego, California