Kevin Brackley – Laos – A journey from Luang Nam Tha to Vietianne
The first speaker of February’s meeting was the Globetrotters membership secretary Kevin. Kevin talked about the pilot trip he did last year for the travel company ‘Gecko Travel’. Accompanied by just one other guest and the guide, Kevin described their adventures to some less travelled parts of Laos. Laos’ lack of infrastructure and the fact that it has no beaches means that it is less popular than its neighbours, Thailand, Vietnam and Cambodia. Consequently it is less touristy and has the advantage of being cheaper. On arrival Kevin instantly became a millionaire receiving more than 20,000 Laos Kip to his sterling pound ! The group’s entry point into Laos was via the Northern Thailand’s ‘golden triangle’. They flew to Chang Mai and continued to the border at Chiang Khong. Here they waited for visas to cross the Mekong River by boat to Huay Xai. Although Laos is poor, with notably tractor engine vehicles replacing the cars, tuk tuks and motorbikes of Thailand, many of the ideas are progressive. Kevin described their eco lodge accommodation ‘The Boat Landing’ in Luang Nam Tha, with his picture-postcard country cottages located in the peaceful old town.
From here the party trekked in the park, designated a protected area in 2005, to spot the tigers, leopards and elephants that live there. Kevin also described the fascinating chattering noises as the locals call to one another across the valleys. The main crop of the area is rice, which is stored in huts on stilts to prevent the rats getting to the food. Each village has one hut per family and one extra hut that everyone contributes to that is held in reserve in case one family is hit with difficulty. Kevin’s trip then took him south along the pot-holed road to Nong Khiaw. The local Hmong here earn an inventive living by charging vehicles to drive over the holes that they have filled in on the road! By contrast to the bumpy road it was the gentle Ou River that took the three travellers the 70 miles to Luang Prabang. Forty minutes north of Luang Prabang, where the Ou and Mekong Rivers meet are the Pak Ou caves. These caves are on two levels and are full of thousands of Buddha figures. From here Kevin travelled to Wat Xieng Thong where local saffron-robed monks invited him to the sunset half hour chanting. Here the trio left by plane to Vientianne. At the airport Kevin was amused to see the chalked-up departures board and even more amused when each passenger was weighed before departure along with their luggage !
Kevin’s Laos trip ended in Vientanne, the French inspired city that is home to Phat That Luang (Golden Lotus bud) – the national monument to Buddhism that dates from the 16th century. The monument was destroyed in the 19th century, by Thai invaders and rebuilt by the French.
Kevin’s final words to us were “go to Laos now and see the happy faces before anything changes”. He also negotiated a 5% discount on any Gecko holiday for fully paid up Globetrotters.
Jonathan Kaplan “Surgeon under Siege” Kuito in Angola’s central highlands
Our second speaker in February was Jonathan, who on many occasions has volunteered to travel to war-torn destinations, working without pay, in trauma medical wards. The trip Jonathan shared with us was in 2001 to Kuito in Angola’s central highlands. This part of the country had seen 27 years of war. Its once elegant Portuguese buildings (the Portuguese left in 1946) shot to pieces and many now just piles of rubble. Kuito and the surrounding area at that time survived on food aid bought in on eight planes a day. Even with this support most of the population were undernourished which Jonathan explains makes healing much slower. And yet Jonathan explains that his work in places such as Kuito has only increased his humility and respect for others who provide vaccination programmes or water sanitisation. The war, that started in 1975, was fuelled by the US supply of arms to Jonas Savimbi. Having failed in the country’s elections twice (1991 and 1998) the war persisted until Jona was killed in 2002.
Jonathan arrived in Kuito by plane that, in order to avoid the ground to air missile, rolled into a nose-dive above the runway, pulling up just before hitting the tarmac. Jonathan noted that other pilots had not been as skilful as he counted the plane wrecks that were scattered around. In Kuito, Jonathan worked for ‘Medicine San Frontiers’, a French organisation, and was there to cover for the incumbent surgeon while he took a holiday. This left Jonathan as the only surgeon for 160 thousand people, many of them wounded by war. However, he was supported by Angolan medical team and ‘Technos Medicin’, Portuguese medical staff, essential to the hospital. Jonathan explained that surrounding the hospital were critical feeding tents where children swollen by water retention caused by lack of protein were treated. Children were also treated in the trauma wards mostly from landmine injuries. He described how children were targeted with shiny objects or sweet placed on top of the landmines. This resulted in fewer soldiers on the battlefields as parents looked after their wounded children. It is estimated that it will take 100 years to clear Angola of these mines. If you would like to learn more about the places Jonathan has worked he has two books published – Contact Wounds and The Dressing Station, both published by Picador.
London meetings are held at The Church of Scotland, Crown Court, behind the Fortune Theatre in Covent Garden at 2.30pm the first Saturday of each month. There is no London meeting in August, but we start afresh in September. For more information, you can contact the Globetrotters Info line on +44 (0) 20 8674 6229, or visit the website: www.globetrotters.co.uk.
For details of the forth coming meetings of the London branch, April to July 2008 – http://www.globetrotters.co.uk/meetings/lon08it2.html.