“I have just got back from nearly 8 months travelling, having visited Australia, New Zealand, Thailand, Myanmar, Laos, Vietnam, Cambodia and Malaysia. I’ve written a little anecdote about the slow boats you take from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang in Laos…
Travelling on a local bus full of chickens in Thailand, journeying the length of Vietnam by train without another Westerner in sight, clinging on to the back of a moto-taxi in Cambodia – all great experiences to be had travelling around South East Asia. However, there is one journey to beat them all hands down – a 2-day slow boat journey in Laos! It’s an epic journey well-discussed by many a backpacker, including myself, who brave the slow boat as a means of getting from North-East Thailand (Chiang Khong) into Laos, and on to its charming former capital of Luang Prabang.
This mother of all journeys begins with an early start to beat the crowds at immigration. After a quick pay-and-stamp at Thai Immigration, everyone jumps onto long-tail boats that race you across the river to Huay Xai, Laos. After 3 attempts at a highly uncomplicated immigration form everyone is herded along to the ‘boarding platform’ (a mud-bank with wooden planks reminiscent of something out of Pirates of the Caribbean).
Now let the games begin. The boat itself is an old wooden number, apparently with a capacity of 75 people. I’m not too sure what Health & Safety would say about the boat ending up with about 110 people on it, but I guess that just makes the trip all the more ‘interesting’. As rumours swirl around about the length of the boat trip, the general consensus was about 7 hours on Day 1; the big question being whether the 2 hour loading process (yes 2 hours!) was part of those 7 hours. It wasn’t. Any images of nice, comfy seats should now be dispelled; the people last onto the boat make do with the floor whilst the early-birds have the perceived luxury of park benches big enough for half a cheek. Over the two days I had the ominous pleasure of both options, and in fact I recommend the floor!
After 7 hours meandering down the mystical Mekong taking in the beautiful scenery, muddy waters, jutting rocks and watching the people of Laos going about their daily business, you arrive in Pak Beng. What can be said about this mid-way stopover? Well I guess it can be summed up by the fact that every guesthouse owner warns you of the local thieves, then they themselves act as unorthodox chemists that offer herbal remedies not available being the counter in a town near you!
Day 2 is much the same as Day 1, with beautiful scenery becoming repetitive, jutting rocks becoming the speed-bumps of the river, and the constant drone of the engine becoming as painful as listening to a McFly record. Another 7 hours of this and the final destination is reached, albeit with a rather numb derriere.
This does indeed sound like the journey from hell, but it’s actually a rather enjoyable experience in a twisted way. The painful journey alongside random people makes conversation a must, and friendships inevitable. Also, there is definitely something about the Mekong, a vital artery that runs the length of SE Asia. Maybe it’s watching all those Vietnamese War films or something, but does have a certain charm. And then there are the blagging rights amongst travellers. Have you survived the Mekong slow boat? No? Well I have…
See Chris’s travel blog at www.travelpod.com/members/c-hampden