Mac's Travel Reminiscences

MacWe are sorry to say that Mac is not very well, but he is still e-mailing strong and recently sent the Beetle a collection of travel reminiscences and in particular discusses some travel writers. Former Globetrotter President, Arthur Frommer (Europe On $5 A Day) gave an interesting interview to travel writer Michael Shapiro for Michael's book, A Sense of Place Great Travel Writers Talk About their Craft, Lives and Inspiration.

In this he writes: “As a G.I. stationed in Germany in the mid 1950s, Frommer had travelled on a shoestring whenever he had a couple of days off. Early on, he realized an essential truth pertaining to intrepid travellers. The less you spend, the more you enjoy. After travelling widely throughout Europe and self-publishing a slender guide for G.I.s, Frommer wrote his seminal Europe on $5 a day”.

Arthur Frommer was my hero and his books were my bible for years. One of his funny stories: “Our first edition of Mexico on 5 Dollars A Day was written by John Wilcock who hates Mexican food. He spends pages telling you where you can find a decent tuna fish salad sandwich in Mexico City. I think I wrote to tell them that place he recommended was now a parking lot! He doesn't like Mexican food, yet he is the author of one of classic guidebooks to Mexico. When you read the restaurant chapter you could tell that he is virtually holding his nose. I never changed that – what he wrote went into print. In my opinion, a copy editor's function is grammar, punctuation, consistent abbreviations and the like- it's not style. A copy editor has no right to impose his or his style upon the author.”

Close to home here he tells of “A young woman named Beth Bryant called us many years ago she lived in Washington, D.C. and said she wanted to write guidebooks. I said write the restaurant section of a hypothetical guidebook to Washington, D.C. in which you rate the government cafeterias. And she wrote this absolutely delightful comparison of the Justice Department cafeteria with the Commerce Department all of which are open to public visits. We immediately knew that we had a star on our hands. She was sent to Ireland where she wrote the first edition of our Ireland guidebook which is a travel classic. It's one of the best ones we have ever done.”

I am reading and enjoying A Fortune Teller Told Me by Tiziano Terzani. Here are some sentences I have copied down. Page 58: it was the Burmese kings hankering after one of the King of Siams' seven white elephants, very rare and therefore magical that sparked a war which lasted three hundred years – the upshot being that Auydhya (Siam's then capital) was destroyed and the Siamese had to build a new capital, present day Bangkok.

Page 54. The tie. Originally a Mogul invention for dragging prisoners tied to the pommels of their saddles. Note from the Beetle: some people believe that tie originates from Croatia. IN the 17th century, a huge number of soldiers and knights went to Paris to give their support to King Louis XIII and Cardinal Richelieu. Some Croatian mercenaries went too, wearing traditional costumes whose traditional included colourful scarves tied around their necks. This attracted the attention of the fashion-conscious French who adopted it as part of the uniform for French officers. The description “a la croate” evolved into “la cravate”. British exiled King Charles II took the fashion with him from France and soon the tie or cravat spread across Europe to America.

On Bangkok, page 33. Spirit temples and small shrines. The phii (spirit) of the plot of land where the old Erawan Hotel (in Bangkok) was built was so happy with the way it has been treated that it took to performing miracles and today its temple is still one of the most frequented and most popular in Bangkok. One of its specialties is to aid the conception of male offspring and thousands of sterile women have come to it with all sorts of offerings; some dance around it semi-nude at night. (Mac: I wish they would be more specific. At what time??)

Laos, page 27. During the war, every time the Pathet Lao crossed a river the last man had to turn back and call to a non existent comrade. The spirit of the river habitually carries off the last of the line i.e. the last man in the patrol, and in that way the guerrillas hoped to deceive it.

Tibet, page 2l. The Chinese to facilitate tourist access have decided to modernise the lighting of the Potala (used to be Dalai Lama palace-temple) and have installed neon lights. This is no accident as neon kills everything even the Gods. And as they die, the Tibetan identity gradually dies with them. This Italian writer travelled for a year in 1993 without using a plane as a fortune teller had told him not to travel by plane in 1993. He is the Far Eastern correspondent of the German newsmagazine Der Spiegel. Since 1994 he has made New Delhi his base.

Interesting times! Happy trails, Mac. Mac can be contacted on: macsan400@yahoo.com



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