Lisbon: On Moving to Cascais by Sally Pethybridge

Sally is British and has lived in the UK all her life. International travel as part of her work took her to many countries, including Portugal. She fell in love with the place and decided to sell her beautiful cottage in Malmsbury, Wiltshire, and relocate to Lisbon. In this article, she tells us about exploring Cascais, in Portugal.

So, what have I been up to? Well I have been exploring Cascais – I had to have a coffee bar to replace the one I used in Alfama and so far have found two that are really nice. The first one, Chocolat, is in the centre and is air-conditioned (a boon in the summer heat wave) and although more pricey than others, is quite glamorous. It does all sorts of herbal and fruit teas as well as every variety of coffee. It sells snacks and cakes and does great scones – a favourite being cinnamon. The second one is up a back street not far from the main square and is called Mise en Scene. This again does lovely teas and coffees and wonderful savouries. It has tables outside and inside its decorated in a cross between Mediterranean and Indian styles. Very good for vegetarians too. On Sundays I drive along the coast road to Casa da Guia – a large mansion with coffee bars, restaurants and shops with a view of the sea – to get the Sunday papers and then sit looking out at sea reading all the news. The service is atrocious – you wait ages to order, then ages for it to arrive and then a lifetime waiting for the bill and change but the view is worth it.

Throughout the heat wave the most popular places to go were the shopping centres because of the air conditioning. The beaches were, as you would expect, very busy but the guys on the beach that I use, said that it was still quiet compared to last year. I still get my bed for 2 Euros which is great value. It’s a nice beach with bars, ice cream kiosks and a ski school behind. You can sit and watch the water skiers fall in and the antics of the kids on the banana boat as well as all the other yachts, fishing boats and in the distance the big tankers on their way into Lisbon. Someone has also started boat trips up the coast to Lisbon (on Sundays) and to Carcavelos (about 10 minutes by road) in a tall ship. Apparently you can join in the work on the boat or just enjoy the trip.

The Marina is an odd place – obviously it has all the flash boats etc. and the shops, bars, restaurants etc. but doesn’t seem to be doing very well. I was told by a friend that the mooring fees here in Cascais are the most expensive in Europe!! May be that’s the reason then. There have also been a spate of late night muggings which have caused problems.

Along the coast road just up from Boca d’Inferno (Hell’s Mouth) is a great hot dog stand with amazing views out over the sea. Very enterprising operation run on solar power with tables and chairs, umbrellas etc. but no loo! They play good music too. Unfortunately as I do not like hot dogs I have not actually tried them but my local friends recommend them highly.

Cascais has a lovely park with a museum, ponds and a mini zoo. Very popular on Sundays with families and obviously with school parties. The areas behind the main streets are also very interesting with the old traditional properties and some of them have the most fabulous gardens – some times parts of it remind me very much of Malmsbury – the streets are just as narrow and there is a crazy one way system that still manages to confuse me and I end up somewhere I have never been before but it doesn’t matter as it’s a great way of finding new areas.

Living down by the coast is really nice. Although Cascais is a holiday resort, when you live here you really don’t notice it that much because the tourists tend to be concentrated by the seafront and the main square, although it has been pretty obvious that this year has been very quiet. The beach I use in previous years would have three or four guys working the beach, doing the beds, the canoes, the banana boat and water skiing and then about four or five behind the bar and waiting on the tables. This year there have been two on the beach (one finished two weeks ago); and two waiting tables (one finished about three weeks ago) and the rest is done by the husband and wife who own the beach bar. August was busy because that’s when the whole country is on holiday – they even stop charging to come across the bridges as an incentive for people.

If you’d like to contact Sally, she can be reached by e-mail on: pethybs@hotmail.com