Iris’s Diary of An Overland Trip Through South America

Iris takes part in a barbecue in Brazil.

We went to a little town called Ouro Preto, in Brazil, which is in the centre of a mining area, which produced gem stones. We visited the museum which shows all the different metals and minerals mined and they have an impressive display of what they produce, including polished stones, although I am convinced the diamonds on display must be paste because they are so big and there are only teenage boys guarding them!!!

After Ouro Preto we did a bit of travelling with a one night stand at a place called Jacaraipe, which was by the coast and was the first of many camp sites which, although not on the beach, were full of sand. (How I have got to hate sand since I’ve been on this last stretch of the trip! It gets everywhere and one seems totally unable to get rid of it entirely and it turns up afterwards in my day sack, in my socks, in my shoes, in my hair, for days on end!)

Then we headed for Itaunas where we spent a couple of nights, arriving at about mid-afternoon and immediately arranging for a barbecue for the evening . We’d bought some pork and beef, and lots of potatoes so that we could roast them in the oven. We had been assured by our leaders that the Brazilians were a barbecue nation, they knew all about barbecuing, so when the owner of the camp site told our revered leader, Heather, that it would be better done on the beach as there weren’t the facilities at the camp site, she readily agreed and at the appointed hour, we packed up the food and also the ingredients for what was going to be a rather lethal vodka punch and headed for the beach.

Itaunas is an unspoilt little village at the edge of the sea, there is no real tourism there and it made me laugh to see those little village shops with their “Visa” and “Mastercard” signs in the window as they weren’t selling anything that would cost more than the odd pound or two! We trekked all the way down the main street, which is really a mud track, over the bridge, and along the track for some 500 metres, and then we had to turn off and start climbing – yes some really big sand dunes with sand that literally could come up to your neck if you trod in the wrong place! The path was marked by the odd rubbish bin and it was quite free of trees (this is important for later) but it was still at least another 300 metres from the beach and the bar we were heading for, but eventually after a half hour walk we were there.

The beach was very narrow and the sea was in. It was also getting dusk by the time we arrived and then Heather had the news – the owner had not yet located the barbecue! Still, we lived in hope. I was part of the cook team for the evening, our actual cook being Alex, a really tall well-built Chinese gentleman who was born in Hong Kong but arrived in England in 1967 to take up a nursing career and now at the age of 55 has retired from nursing (he ended up in an important administrative post in the hospital equivalent to the old matrons) and he is an accomplished chef who thoroughly enjoys cooking and turns out some really tasty meals. He has also a wicked sense of humour and keeps us all amused with his wry remarks.

Anyway, we got on with making the vodka punch (I didn’t participate because I’m not a spirits drinker and so stuck to beer and the odd soft drink) but just about everything was going into the punch. Then came the news, the barbecue had arrived. There were 22 hungry mouths waiting for that food and so you can imagine how many steaks, pork chops and fish steaks we had to cook. The bad news was that our barbecuing host provide us with a little grill which would take 2 steaks at a time!

Out the back of the bar there was a bonfire (burning rubbish) and so it was decided to improvise (it was quite dark by now) and see if the bonfire could be utilised, but the problem was we had no grills to put across it. So our host got his workers to dig a pit and transfer some of the bonfire into it and plus our barbecue coals it seemed that was the way to go, except the only grill they could come up with was the grill which would normally go across the top of a 4-ring gas cooker! Of course it was totally inadequate as well as being totally unsuitable and in the end we had to abandon the idea of a barbecue altogether.

We just used the small barbecue to cook the fish steaks (four) and then Alex set to in the kitchen and with the aid of two big frying pans cooked the pork chops first (which were delicious and so tender – I’ve never tasted such succulent pork chops in my life before), but unfortunately when the beef was cooked it turned out to have died of old age and the cooking just made it tougher and no-one ate the beef!

So what did most people do? They got drunk on the vodka punch! Judith and I decided to leave quite early (around 2200) and so set out with three of the men who were also fed up with the barbecue and just wanted to get back into town and do a bit of drinking there, so we headed off up the sand dunes – but it is surprising how different they looked at night in the pitch dark with no lights to guide us except the odd torch!

We were first of all walking, then scrambling almost on hands and knees up and down steep sand dunes, and continually ending up at dead ends because the other side of the sand dunes there was scrubland and water, lots of it! Judith and I were often left far behind by the men, would lose sight of them and start yelling and then see their lights heading back our way because they’d had to do a U-turn! Eventually we found the right path, more by luck than judgement, and found we had walked a considerable way in the wrong direction which put at least twenty minutes on our journey back to town. On the way we encountered the odd car and van luckily displaying headlights, but then we found we were among a whole crowd of cyclists with no lights at all! It was pretty hairy trying to see and avoid them! All those people in Itaunas must have cats’ eyes!

When we arrived in town, we thanked our men friends for looking after us so well – it was sarcasm really as they had left us way behind once we were on the right path and we only saw them again when we got into town and found them sitting at a bar and one of them, a Korean gentleman we call Young, and who speaks very little English, insisted we join them and have a beer before retiring.

But although we thought we had had an adventure it was nothing that happened to all our friends who had stayed behind to finish off the Vodka punch and other spirits and beer. They all got plastered and every single one of them got lost on the way back with varying effects. One of our leaders, a chap called Martin, got himself steaming drunk, convinced Alex he knew the way home, and promptly led him a merry dance in the pitch dark without torches through scrubland and bushes, so that Alex ended up losing his shoes, his T-shirt and his truck keys, and getting his back and arms and legs scratched by every conceivable thorn and twig. Next day, Heather asked what on earth made them head that way when they knew there were no trees on the path we had originally taken! There was no answer except to admit they were too drunk to know what they were doing! Another of our number lost his trousers and his T-shirt and his camera, and another of us, a lady called Alison, got a badly grazed knee and bruised hip falling about in an unladylike manner!

So in one way it was good we’d had the barbecue on the day of our arrival because we only planned to stay two nights before moving on so everyone had a day to recover from their excesses and attempt to find their lost possessions, but all searches were fruitless as all those possessions were gone the next day (although it is more than probable they were lost on the way home and therefore extremely difficult to find) The most serious loss was of Alex’s truck keys because they open all the padlocks on the truck and we each are issued with a set at the start of the trip and are told to guard them with our lives! Unfortunately also, just prior to Itaunas we had all been issued with new keys as the old padlocks were at the end of their life and so all new padlocks had recently been fitted! I dare say Alex had to pay a fine for losing his and extra to get a new set!