Iris’s Diary of An Overland Trip Through South America

On the way to Buenos Aires

We only did two visits during the five days it took to drive from Tierra del Fuego to Buenos Aires (BA) and so we arrived in that capital city ready for a rest and some comfortable beds! The only problem was, although our hotel was situated right bang in the centre of BA, we were not only on a street that was a regular bus route, but arrived at a time when major road works were going on all over BA and one set of which were right outside our hotel, so what with traffic all around us, pneumatic drills and revelers in the early hours, it was difficult to get any sleep! And of course it was very hot, but not as hot as it had been apparently, when temperatures had reached 40+. At least our temperatures were more in the high 20s/early 30s.

But BA was an incredible place, with long, extremely wide, roads cutting across it, all with their names reflecting history – names of specific dates such as “Avenida de 9 Julio” reflecting I believe their independence day; others after names of presidents such as “Avenida de Mayo” etc. We were only there for 5 nights, 4 days, and so spent most of it trying to get in as much catching up on emails and see as much of the sights as possible, including a trip to Uruguay for the day.

Of course, we all did our separate things, Judith and I sharing a room and our experiences and in the end we saw a great deal of the capital but not enough as it turned out as a lot of the museums were closed on a Monday (we arrived on a Thursday evening, and were leaving again early on the Tuesday) so our time was rather limited.

Friday was spent recovering from our epic five day journey and just looking around the immediate locality, getting laundry done and catching up on bits and pieces of shopping; Saturday it poured down all day long, but undaunted Judith and I went to see Eva Perón’s tomb (which was very low key, tucked away nondescriptly in one of a great number of rows of mausoleums in a cemetery just off the main central part of BA). But Judith was enthralled by it and had to have her photo taken in front of it, which I obligingly did on my camera as she had forgotten hers and it had been put in the hotel safe as a security precaution!

We also visited a famous part of BA called La Bocca which is really the slum area of BA but which has been renovated in parts and houses a thriving arts community. Many of the walls have murals depicting the history of the area but there are also many art shops and displays to wander around, besides street musicians and wandering artists, and of course the obligatory touristy shops! It had a lot of character and we spent the evening there, having a meal in one of the restaurants and enjoying the experience. To get there we had travelled on the bus and metro and that was quite an experience, especially travelling on the bus as although they do stop at designated bus stops, they will also open their doors and wait for you if you just signal them, but invariably this has to be when they are caught in a traffic jam because very often the public buses seem to be in a great hurry to get somewhere and very often drive straight past bus stops even when people are queuing there.

On the Sunday we went across to Uruguay for the day – taking the local ferry across the River Uruguay that took just under 3 hours. We left our hotel at 8am and took a taxi to the local ferry port, which was teeming with life. First of all we had to purchase a ticket, and went to one of the local ferry operators for this and that took some 40 minutes to be processed and then we had to queue for embarkation and get a stamp exiting Argentina and another stamp for entering Uruguay, and, of course, on the way back we had to then exit Uruguay and reenter Argentina.

But the day was brilliantly sunny and so we sat on deck for the entire outward crossing to Uruguay although on the return journey at 1845 it was too chilly to do this and so we spent almost the entire journey in one of the very crowded saloons, jam-packed with the day trippers, locals as well as tourists.

We went to a place called Colonia. We could have gone to Montevideo, the capital of Uruguay but it would have been going from one big city to another, and so chose a “luxury” day trip fare to Colonia, (much nicer than Montevideo, Iris – Beetle) which is an ancient town some 150 km down the coast from Montevideo, which is a World Heritage site because of its old town with some of the original town wall surviving and lots of its old original houses from the 17th and 18th centuries not only still standing but still being used as homes and businesses by the local population, with the proviso they do not alter the structures noticeably.

Our package included a two-course lunch, a guided tour of the new and old towns of Colonia, and of course the return ferry fare. It proved a really rewarding day out, as although it was visited by so many, it was well organized and even the old town did not seem that overcrowded with tourists and one was able to walk around, admire the old architecture and the views along the river and learn something of the history of the place, which was originally settled by the Spanish and then taken over by the Portuguese and became part of Brazil until it got its independence in the 19th century.

Monday was spent in BA, catching up on emails, and visiting the opera house and the presidential palace. Of the opera house, we only got a very brief inside glimpse as it is closed on a Monday for cleaning and normally groups are not allowed in. However, Judith is a very persuasive lady and with her “pretty please” approach, swung us a brief glance inside the auditorium with its plush furnishings etc. Then we moved on to the presidential palace, first of all to look at the archives and catacombs and later to go on a guided tour of the palace itself. Unfortunately, the guided tour was in Spanish only and so most of the time we had to be content to just admire the magnificent architecture and furnishings rather than learn much about its history and unfortunately books in English on the palace weren’t to be had, but of course, we associated it with Eva Peron and looked at it all with her image well in mind!

Next month, Iris tells us of her visit to the Iguaçu Falls.

If you’d like to contact Iris, whether to wish her luck with her trip or to ask questions about her itinerary and places visited, I am sure she would like to hear from you. She can be contacted on: irisej2002@yahoo.co.uk