How many places on earth have you been to that offer so many interesting surprises? Papua New Guinea (PNG in short,) situated north of Australia and east of Indonesia on the island of New Guinea offers a myriad of surprises which come as culture shock for the cultural and adventure tourists.
The Highlands of Papua New Guinea, which is made up of five of the country’s 19 provinces, is the rugged interior, whose people of short, stocky warrior farmers, make up a third of the country’s 5 million people of Melanesian and Polynesian stocks.
The Highlands of PNG is truly “last frontier territory.” The first white men set foot on this part of the world in the 1960s. The Highlands has been referred to by many travellers as wild, rugged and isolated, making it a truly amazing place for its sheer natural beauty and pristine wilderness. It’s a natural wonderland and perhaps, the very place in the world that should rightfully be given the title of “last frontier”. With its towering, cool, cloud-covered mountain peaks, deep gorges, evergreen valleys and fast-flowing rivers, it is the region in PNG that is still very much untouched and unexplored. Its people are colourful and you only have to visit one of the major cultural shows such as the Goroka or Mt Hagen Shows to see why. In one big gathering, you will be confronted with loud pulsating sounds of “kundu drums” made from hollowed logs, which are covered with lizard and snake skin and confronted with thousands of colourfully-painted faces and bodies that glisten in the Highlands sunlight. Their birds of paradise, lorikeet, parrot, cassowary and cockatoo feathers are just as amazing as they sway to the rhythmic movements of the body.
Highlands people are also industrious, most of whom still live in villages and are predominantly agriculturalists whose very livelihood very depends on their relationship with each other and the land that they have inherited. There are 5 Highlands Provinces in the Southern Highlands, Enga, Western Highlands, Simbu and Eastern Highlands. When you take the scenic Highlands Highway from the coastal port and city of Lae, you reach the Eastern Highlands first, whose capital Goroka enjoys an all year around cool, almost eternal spring-like climate. Goroka is famous for the Asaro mud men of the fertile valley of the same name and the world famous Goroka Show, held in September every year to coincide with PNG’s Independence anniversary on September 16th.
About two hours up the Daulo Pass is the rugged Simbu Province, known for its rough terrain and jazzed limestone mountain tops whose people, stocky warrior farmers, can be seen manoeuvring mountainsides with relative ease on bare foot. Simbu is perhaps best known for the highest mountain on the land in Mt Wilhelm, which at 4509 meters has attracted bush walkers, trekkers and mountaineers from far and wide. You only have to view the guest book at Betty’s Lodge and trout farm, situated at the foot of the mountain, to see where climbers have come from. There are entries from should read from as far away as Israel, Germany, France, Switzerland, Holland, Poland, and the United States of America.
Further up the highway is the vibrant city of Mt Hagen and capital of Western Highlands, a predominantly coffee growing region. Mt Hagen is best known as home to the equally famous Mt Hagen Show, which is held in August every year. Like the Goroka Show, this show is one of PNG’s icon cultural spectacles and it brings together colourful and diverse tribes who partake in a weekend of cultural performances called “singsings.”
The author, Steven Mago is a journalist, travel writer and tourism promoter. He was born in Papua New Guinea but for the time being is living in Sydney. Steven can be contacted on: stevenmago@hotmail.com