As I proceeded through the terminal at Bangkok's International Airport I felt the warm air greet me and a rush of excitement tickled my stomach. This was the first destination of my journey around the globe, smiling I thought to myself 'Welcome to the rest of the world!'
Cruising down the highway into the city the vast mass of buildings as far as the eye can see in all directions makes Bangkok seem a little overwhelming at first. For most jet lagged backpackers the Kho San Road is usually the first port of call, I however was lucky to have a free place to stay in Thong Lo on the other side of town.
After catching up on a few lost zeds I was taken to a Thai restaurant. I had never tasted Thai food so good. All the ingredients were so fresh and beautifully served, I am normally a fussy eater but on this occasion I wanted to try everything. If you like rice or noodles there is almost every combination to suit everybody.
Tip: Watch out for the chillies, Thai food can be very spicy!
After dinner we went to meet some of the locals. Apparently Thai people have very long names so they give nicknames to make things easier. I have a tendency to forget names at the best of times, that evening I met Jo, Bo and O. I got terribly mixed up. 'Who was who again?'
The city's name itself comes from Bang Makok meaning 'Place of Olive Plums' taken from Bangkok's original site. The Thais however call it 'Krung Thep' meaning 'City of Angels', a far more desirable name and of course why not.
Bangkok became the capital of Thailand only as recently as 1782 after the Burmese attacked the capital at Ayuthaya in 1767. Now with a population of about 10 million, spreading across 330 sq km. For such a young city you get the impression that it has learnt to run before it could walk. The natural landscape is completely flat of which little is left exposed in the protruding mass of high rise buildings and temples.
93% of the Thai population are practicing Theraveda Buddhists, so our sightseeing started at the Grand Palace home to Royalty, government offices and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. Every year there are three grand ceremonies for the changing of the Emerald Buddha's seasonal costume.
Tip: When entering a temple you must always remember to remove your shoes and not point your feet towards the Buddha when sitting.
Next was the Vimanek Mansion the biggest golden teak building in the world that has traditional Thai dancing shows next to the canal. I discovered that Bangkok used to be known as the Venice of the east. Only the spectacular Temples and Royal Palaces were built on the original land. During my stay I saw little evidence left to suggest this was ever so, however during the rainy season Bangkok often floods and ironically the streets go back to being rivers once more.
Our Last stop for the day Wat Pho the temple of the largest leaning Buddha in the world (46 metres in length). Also home to the reputable Thai massage school and what better way to end the day than leaning back yourself and receiving a massage. After an hour or two with a few pops, twists and cracks you feel very refreshed. As you go back out to the bustling streets the urban metropolis hits you once more and you ask yourself 'Did that sanctuary really exist in the midst of all of this?' Nearby the Kho San Road, the backpackers' main drag, there are bars, Internet cafes, travel agents, shops, stalls and lots of cheap accommodation, all busy with travellers coming and going.
All over Bangkok there are thousands of market stalls cluttering the streets. Tables and chairs lay along the pavement under patchy homemade canopies. Often you have to dodge yourself out into the hectic traffic in order to get past these obstacle courses. And as for crossing the road it sometimes it can seem like an eternity waiting for a gap in the traffic.
At the end of the reliable Skytrain on the Sukumvit line is the enormous Chatuya weekend market. We went with the intention of buying one pair of sandals but I could not believe the bargains and ended up buying three, so much for travelling light. The designer imitations or factory seconds you find all over Bangkok are so well made that no one can tell the difference and at a fraction of the price you just got to have them.
Tip: Haggle, you will definitely not pay the original asking price.
Thai people are more than happy to help whether it is to practice their English or to make a quick buck. No matter where you are or where you are going in Bangkok there is always someone offering a cheap ride. One evening five of us squashed into the back of a tuk tuk (a small three wheeled two stroke) and of we raced to Pat Pong. Night markets fill the side streets, bars and clubs with ladies that do all sorts of things with their private parts. Out of curiosity we took a look. Ping-pong balls, razor blades, bananas, etc within five minutes we walked out our drinks barely touched, that was enough for us thanks! Hum…City of Angels?
The great thing about Bangkok is not only is it very affordable with plenty to do in the big city but also it is very easy to get out. For a day trip, there is the beach at Pattaya, the Ancient ruins at Ayuthaya or the popular boat markets near the famous River Kwai. 1-2hrs by plane or an overnight bus or train will take you to Thailand's beautiful southern beaches, northern rainforests or ancient temples. It has been recognised that Thailand is regarded as one of the safest countries to visit in Asia if not the world and for the inexperienced traveller starting out, it is probably the best place to get adjusted to an unfamiliar culture.
If you'd like to get in touch with Ingrid, she's currently toiling away in a banana factory in Cairns right now, and the Beetle is sure that she would appreciate an e-mail! Ingrid's e-mail address is: ingrid_styles@hotmail.com