The Western Balkans by Sarah Guise

Sarah, an Aussie from Canberra has sent an update on her European adventures.  She says: I have spent a few weeks travelling by myself in Italy, Slovenia, Croatia, Bosnia and Hungary. In Italy I went to Venice, Florence, Siena, Lucca and Sam Gimignano (which I still cannot spell) and Trieste. Loved Venice, as you know, and other highlight was the Tuscan hills outside of San Gim. I could have sat there watching the seasons change, the hills are so enchanting. Went ambling through grape vines and olive trees for that authentic experience. Will be looking for a job squashing grapes in a small Tuscan village after I have finished working on a ferry in Venice.

If you are ever in the region it is extremely worthwhile to do a little circuit around the Balkans, where the hordes of tourists that populate Italy have not yet penetrated.  Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia is a quaint old town with a wonderful range of cafes and beautiful old buildings among the willow trees on the river bank. A day trip away is Bled, home of my favourite castle for this trip.  Perched on a cliff overlooking a deep green lake with an ancient monastery on an island, sheltered by the surrounding Alps.

Then I caught the ferry from Rijeka in Croatia down the coast to Dubrovnik.  Slept on the deck with the smell of salt air and the warm breeze to lull me to sleep.  The coastline is stark, with weather bleached rocks and sparse vegetation, the darker green of coastal conifers. And the water is so clear azure at the shore and a deep blue as though someone spilt ink where it's deep.  Wandered the old town of Dubrovnik, enclosed by fully in tact city walls and escaped the heat to an island 10 minutes away, with rocky beaches and a deserted fort to clamber in and imagine where the old cannons would have been fired from the crumbling walls. 

The hot sun on the ground creating that smell of dried leaves and warm earth that is so intoxicating and evocative of summer. A chance encounter with some English lasses – the Beetle! – (and a few bottles of wine) and I was off to Sarajevo. A contender for my favourite city in Europe.  Certainly the most interesting if not the most beautiful.  Minarets and church spires share the skyline and the architecture tells the stories of all those different periods of history from Turks to Austrians right up until the recent war.  Shrapnel marks still scar the pavement and buildings are pockmarked with bullet wounds, and yet the cafe lifestyle is thriving and thelocals delights in strolling up and down the pedestrian walks each balmy summers night. 

The tunnel museum tells the story of the tunnel, the only link between Sarajevo and free territory during the siege, and locals will tell you their stories of how they lived during the war.  A place with a long and interesting history currently transforming and adapting itself once more. Next stop was Zagreb for my birthday.  A stately city with many fine buildings and yet more cafe lifestyle.  Friends joined me and we celebrated my 103rd birthday by watching some crazy French street performers doing a comical version of the magic flute, complete with soprano and brass ensemble and full audience participation. 

The other highlight of Zagreb was the annual animated film festival, for something a bit different.Another long un-air-conditioned train trip later and I was in Budapest to meet another friend, wondering how many times I would have to revise which is my favourite city in Europe.  Rightly compared with Prague, the most beautiful feature is the palace, castle and parliament buildings along the river, that along with the bridges are beautifully lit at night. We went to a small town on the Danube bend and climbed to a castle before catching the boat back down the river to Budapest.  Spent a lovely day at the hot baths, and then enjoying a long meal on the river front as the sun set on another beautiful summers day. And now I am in London. 

The last four weeks of this trip will see me dashing around the UK, catching up with friends and family. I will also go to Scotland, having been unsuccessful in obtaining a visa for Russia as well as to Ireland for a few days for a South American truck reunion and to see some more family. 

If you'd like to contact Sarah, her details are: sarahguise@hotmail.com