Globetrotting Kiwis, Christine and Malcolm Clark are a little over 18 months and 8,759 miles into their epic cycling journey, from England to New Zealand. Their trip is entirely self-funded and they are also helping to raise money for the Gray Cancer Institute, a UK based cancer research organization.
Our route took us across France where we received much encouragement from the French, hyped up by the recent Tour de France. Picking up the Danube cycle path, we crossed Germany, Austria, Slovakia and Hungary before leaving the river in Budapest. Romania gave us a warm welcome and throughout our stay we received honest hospitality and friendliness. This was in stark contrast to the warnings we had received before entering the country. Bulgaria was a totally different place to our experiences 13 years previously. The two weeks there provided the opportunity to meet many people and again be on the receiving end of much generosity.
As we made our way through the city walls and down into the backpacker settlement of Sultanahmet, Istanbul, the strains of Crowded House blended in with the calls to prayer and the clink of a cold bottle of beer contrasted with scarf clad ladies scuttling along buying vegetables. The East of Turkey again showed wonderful hospitality but also large packs of marauding dogs. These caused many anxious moments but the Dog Dazer, an electronic device, saved us from any serious maulings. It was with great trepidation that we entered Iran and, for Christine, a whole new way of dressing. With preconceptions of fundamentalism and chador clad women in our minds we found instead a country struggling with its identity: desperate to become more developed with a loathing of America idealism but still coveting the American icons and materialism. However, the people were welcoming and friendly, the hotels clean and the food tasty and hygienic. The dual pricing system of all hotels and tourist attractions was wearying but did not detract from the stunning natural beauty of the country.
It was a great co-incidence to cross into Pakistan on the same day of the first cricket test between Pakistan and New Zealand. There was more ribbing about the test results than any concerns about border formalities. The ride across the Great Sandy Desert of Baluchistan was stunning, isolated and contrary to what most guide books say about the area – safe. With the right frame of mind and appropriate dress code Pakistan is a truly enthralling destination. A detour up the Karakoram Highway to the market town of Kashgar, China turned out to be more complicated than we expected. The events of the 11/09 closed the borders back to Pakistan and we set off across Western Tibet towards the Nepalese border. Crossing passes of over 4,500 metres with temperatures often below freezing, it was the most challenging cycling we had ever done. Nepal however welcomed us with friendly faces and calls of 'Namaste' rang in our ears and we braved the rickshaws and tuk tuks of Thamel to find our hotel. We are watching the events in India and Pakistan carefully before we head down onto the plains.
We are now using our journey to help raise money for a UK based cancer research organisation, the Gray Cancer Institute. For more details please see our website www.kiwisonbikes.net brought to you with the tireless efforts of Guildford based Mike Fisher.
Wow! The Beetle is truly humbled – this is so inspiring! If you would like to contact the Kiwis on Bikes, visit their web site: http://www.kiwisonbikes.net