As I proceeded through the terminal at Bangkok's International Airport I felt the warm air greet me and a rush of excitement tickled my stomach. This was the first destination of my journey around the globe, smiling I thought to myself 'Welcome to the rest of the world!'

Cruising down the highway into the city the vast mass of buildings as far as the eye can see in all directions makes Bangkok seem a little overwhelming at first. For most jet lagged backpackers the Kho San Road is usually the first port of call, I however was lucky to have a free place to stay in Thong Lo on the other side of town.

After catching up on a few lost zeds I was taken to a Thai restaurant. I had never tasted Thai food so good. All the ingredients were so fresh and beautifully served, I am normally a fussy eater but on this occasion I wanted to try everything. If you like rice or noodles there is almost every combination to suit everybody.

Tip: Watch out for the chillies, Thai food can be very spicy!

After dinner we went to meet some of the locals. Apparently Thai people have very long names so they give nicknames to make things easier. I have a tendency to forget names at the best of times, that evening I met Jo, Bo and O. I got terribly mixed up. 'Who was who again?'

The city's name itself comes from Bang Makok meaning 'Place of Olive Plums' taken from Bangkok's original site. The Thais however call it 'Krung Thep' meaning 'City of Angels', a far more desirable name and of course why not.

Bangkok became the capital of Thailand only as recently as 1782 after the Burmese attacked the capital at Ayuthaya in 1767. Now with a population of about 10 million, spreading across 330 sq km. For such a young city you get the impression that it has learnt to run before it could walk. The natural landscape is completely flat of which little is left exposed in the protruding mass of high rise buildings and temples.

93% of the Thai population are practicing Theraveda Buddhists, so our sightseeing started at the Grand Palace home to Royalty, government offices and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. Every year there are three grand ceremonies for the changing of the Emerald Buddha's seasonal costume.

Tip: When entering a temple you must always remember to remove your shoes and not point your feet towards the Buddha when sitting.

Next was the Vimanek Mansion the biggest golden teak building in the world that has traditional Thai dancing shows next to the canal. I discovered that Bangkok used to be known as the Venice of the east. Only the spectacular Temples and Royal Palaces were built on the original land. During my stay I saw little evidence left to suggest this was ever so, however during the rainy season Bangkok often floods and ironically the streets go back to being rivers once more.

Our Last stop for the day Wat Pho the temple of the largest leaning Buddha in the world (46 metres in length). Also home to the reputable Thai massage school and what better way to end the day than leaning back yourself and receiving a massage. After an hour or two with a few pops, twists and cracks you feel very refreshed. As you go back out to the bustling streets the urban metropolis hits you once more and you ask yourself 'Did that sanctuary really exist in the midst of all of this?' Nearby the Kho San Road, the backpackers' main drag, there are bars, Internet cafes, travel agents, shops, stalls and lots of cheap accommodation, all busy with travellers coming and going.

All over Bangkok there are thousands of market stalls cluttering the streets. Tables and chairs lay along the pavement under patchy homemade canopies. Often you have to dodge yourself out into the hectic traffic in order to get past these obstacle courses. And as for crossing the road it sometimes it can seem like an eternity waiting for a gap in the traffic.

At the end of the reliable Skytrain on the Sukumvit line is the enormous Chatuya weekend market. We went with the intention of buying one pair of sandals but I could not believe the bargains and ended up buying three, so much for travelling light. The designer imitations or factory seconds you find all over Bangkok are so well made that no one can tell the difference and at a fraction of the price you just got to have them.

Tip: Haggle, you will definitely not pay the original asking price.

Thai people are more than happy to help whether it is to practice their English or to make a quick buck. No matter where you are or where you are going in Bangkok there is always someone offering a cheap ride. One evening five of us squashed into the back of a tuk tuk (a small three wheeled two stroke) and of we raced to Pat Pong. Night markets fill the side streets, bars and clubs with ladies that do all sorts of things with their private parts. Out of curiosity we took a look. Ping-pong balls, razor blades, bananas, etc within five minutes we walked out our drinks barely touched, that was enough for us thanks! Hum…City of Angels?

The great thing about Bangkok is not only is it very affordable with plenty to do in the big city but also it is very easy to get out. For a day trip, there is the beach at Pattaya, the Ancient ruins at Ayuthaya or the popular boat markets near the famous River Kwai. 1-2hrs by plane or an overnight bus or train will take you to Thailand's beautiful southern beaches, northern rainforests or ancient temples. It has been recognised that Thailand is regarded as one of the safest countries to visit in Asia if not the world and for the inexperienced traveller starting out, it is probably the best place to get adjusted to an unfamiliar culture.

If you'd like to get in touch with Ingrid, she's currently toiling away in a banana factory in Cairns right now, and the Beetle is sure that she would appreciate an e-mail! Ingrid's e-mail address is: ingrid_styles@hotmail.com

Save the Earth Network, founded in 1988, is a Ghana based NGO dedicated to promoting sustainable development, agro-forestry, environmental conservation, international solidarity and cultural immersion through voluntary work, eco-tourism and cultural tourism in Ghana. Our aims are to help reduce poverty, hunger, malnutrition, disease, illiteracy, drug abuse, unemployment, and environmental degradation that are increasingly becoming the order of the day in most parts of the developing world.

We are a membership-based organization and also a networking tool for environmental, social and economic development activists. We also offer travellers from abroad the most socially responsible, exciting and affordable eco-friendly alternative to mass tourism.

Ghana is an English speaking country on Africa's west coast with a population of over 18 million and over 92,099 square miles. Along much of the coast stretches a sandy, grass-and-shrub-covered plain. Behind it rises a moderately high plateau broken by forested hills and steep ridges. Ghana has a tropical climate with temperatures from 70 to 90 ^oF. Except for small European and Asian minorities, Ghanaians are people of many tribes. Most Ghanaians are Christians but there are many Moslems and others who hold animist beliefs.

We offer volunteer placements in areas that includes renovation and construction of school buildings and libraries for poor rural communities, teaching English language in foster homes and orphanages, HIV/AIDS prevention education, re-forestation and agro-forestry through tree planting and organic farming. No special skills, qualifications or previous experience is required of volunteers – all that is required is motivation, charisma, initiative, drive and the compassion to assist the underprivileged overcome their challenges and their struggle for dignity.

Volunteers can participate in most of the programs from a period of 4 weeks to 52 weeks or more. Volunteers work four days a week, from Monday to Thursday and can decide upon the amount of hours worked each day. The cost of participating in the voluntary work program is US$250 for 4 weeks. This charge covers board and lodging and help towards the running of our organisation. Volunteers stay with host families in homes with electricity and water. We can offer a 25% discount on the cost of volunteers who would like to participate for a period of more than 8 weeks.

We also have a holiday program where people can stay with host families for a holiday, cultural exchange, relaxation and recreation or to learn the local language. The charge for this, including board and lodging is US $250 for three or four weeks. Special discounts are available for longer stays.

We offer guided three day general tours each Friday, Saturday and Sunday for volunteers and those who are interested in seeing some of the tourist attractions in Ghana. The cost of this is US $100 for the tour guide for the three days plus the costs of bus, food and hotels – all of which can be advised upon.

We also organise unique eco-tourism programs in Ghana in conjunction with tour operators in Ghana. Our eco-tourism focuses on local cultures, wilderness adventures, personal growth and learning new ways to live in our vulnerable planet. We focus on travelling to destinations where the floral, fauna, and cultural heritage are the primary attractions.

Areas of eco-tourism which we cover includes small group hiking, river rafting and canoeing, villages and beaches, culture and photo tours, traditional stories, historic sites, traditional drumming and dances, traditional houses, trekking, animal sanctuaries, nature tourism, exotic natural habitats, scenes of spectacular natural beauty etc. the cost of joining is US $200 a week including food (at restaurants) and accommodation (at hotels) and transportation (bus) and professional tour guide's charge. Participants experience rich cultural immersion and unique hospitality. It is fun, worthwhile and rewarding.

People who would like to participate in any of our programs should please contact us for more information, contact: Edgar Asare or Eben Mensah at Save the Earth Network, P.O. Box CT 3635, Cantonments, Accra, Ghana. West Africa. Tel: 233-21-667791, Fax: 233-21-231485.Email:ebensten@yahoo.com

The majority of this trip uses travel by train, with journeys of no more than 4 hours. It takes in Jerez, Seville, Cordoba, Granada, Ronda, Cadiz and Algeciras if you are planning to take the hydrofoil across to Morocco, if you have time and then back to Jerez. Because there are some good flight deals from the UK, you could start the journey in Jerez, or Seville, Granada or even Malaga, which is only about 1½ hours away from Granada.

Buzz http://www.buzzaway.com has cheap flights to Jerez, Easy Jet http://www.easyjet.co.uk flies to both Madrid and Malaga but Ryan Air does not fly to Spain. Otherwise, try Lastminute.com for good airline deals to Southern Spain.) If you intend to continue your stay, you may find it worthwhile to buy a Spain train pass, otherwise, the train fares are reasonable, and Spain's trains are on the whole, very efficient and clean. It's also possible to start this journey from Madrid, if that is where you happen to be: Seville is only 2 ¼ hours from Madrid by the super fast AVE train.

The Beetle has chosen to start in Jerez (pronounced Her-eth). So, what is there to see and do in Jerez? Well, the most obvious thing is to go and taste some sherry – this is, after all, the place where sherry comes from! There are lots of bodegas where you can see how sherry is made and of course sample a drop or too! There's the Alcazar, the palace and the Camera Obscura, and if you like horses, then the Jerez Riding School is for you. There is certainly enough to keep you happy and occupied for a couple of days.

From here, you can take the train from Jerez to Seville, around 1 1/2 hours, if you take an express train, second class adult single: £ 7.50 ($12) or return £15 ($23). This trip can be taken as a day trip or as part of a circuit, taking in Jerez, Seville, Cordoba and Granada.

Seville is a beautiful city, and the capital of Andalucia, with lovely old streets, lots of tapas bars and of course, the famous cathedral, which contains the tomb of Christopher Colombus, well, it may contain the remains of Christopher Colombus, his remains were brought over from Cuba in 1899, and may have got mislaid en route. There are churches, plazas, museums – many places to go and visit to keep a tourist amused, again for a couple of days.

From Seville, it is possible to take the train to Cordoba. The journey takes about 45 minutes and costs around £12 one way or $19. Cordoba is probably most famous for the Mezquita, the Great Mosque, which influenced Arabian-Hispanic architecture for the centuries to come. You will find much evidence of Roman and Moorish history in Cordoba and great food too!

From Cordoba, take the train to Granada, which is the longest journey of this circuit, takes about 4 hours and costs around £ 7.50 ($12) or return £15 ($23) – the bus is quicker and takes 3 hours. No need to say much about Granada, except that you must see the Alhambra, discussed by Matt in this e-newsletter.

The Alhambra Palace is open throughout the year except 1st January and 25th December. Visiting times are 8.30 to 20.00h (1st March to 31st Oct. Last admissions at 19.00) and 9.00 to 18.00h (1st November to end of February). Last admissions are at 17.00. Night visits in the winter season are on Fridays and Saturdays from 20.00 to 22.00h (ticket sales from 19.45 to 21.00h). In the summer on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday from 22.00 to 24.00 (ticket sales from 20.45 to 23.00). However, given the large numbers of visitors, visiting times are assigned in a system of slots, which makes it extremely advisable to book in advance, especially at peak times such as May to October.

If you don't want to risk being disappointed when you turn up, you can make a personal booking through BBV by calling the advance bookings telephone service in Spain, Tel: number 0034 91346 5936/0034 902 224460 or visit www.alhambratickets.com (Spanish only). When you have had your fill of the Alhambra, head for the Allaying, Granada's old hilly Islamic quarter and the Camilla Real or Royal Chapel.

From Granada, take the train to Ronda, a pretty and old historic town that straddles a huge gorge. Apart from the stunning scenery and views, there are plazas to wander around, old palaces and churches. Be warned, though, if you want to make this trip by train, there is only one train a day leaving Granada, otherwise, take the bus. The train takes around 2 1/4 hours and costs about £12 one way or $19. It is also possible to travel by train to Ronda from Malaga (2 hours), Cordoba (2 14/ hours), Madrid (4 ½ hours during the day), and Seville – although from Seville, you have to change trains.

If you are running out of time, then take a bus back from Ronda to Jerez, it takes less than two hours. If you have some more time, then you have two options. Option 1 is to take a bus from Ronda to Cadiz. Cadiz is a charming city, some say possibly the oldest in Europe, (I know, they all say that!), but it is full of history: the Phoenicians arrived in Cadiz in 1100 BC, and do you remember Sir Francis Drake “singeing” the beard of the King of Spain? Things to see and do include the Torre Tavira and its camera Obscura, visiting plazas, the cathedral, and you should take a coastal walk to the Castle of Santa Catalina. The train from Cadiz to Jerez takes about 40 minutes and costs only a few pounds/dollars.

Option 2 is for those who would like to go to Gibraltar or Morocco. The train from Ronda down to Algeciras takes 1 1/2 hours, and costs around £7 or US $10. Algeciras is a port town, on the tip of Spain, overlooking the Straits of Gibraltar. From here, you can make a day excursion to Gibraltar, or use it as a jumping off point to Tangier in Morocco. The hydrofoil to Tangiers takes about 2 ½ hours, is very simple and costs around £17 or $24 one way. From Tangier, it is easy to travel through Morocco by bus and train, to Fez, Meknes, Marrakech and Cassablanca (if you really must – Marrakech is far nicer!) To get back to Jerez from Algeciras, take a bus, which will take around 2 hours.

Cadiz, Seville and Cordoba are all possible contenders for day trips out of Jerez, if you are short on time.

Buzz is in the Beetle's opinion the only decent low cost airline. On board information includes useful hints and tips about your destination, what to do and where to stay, and what's more, you can keep it! Yes, you have to pay for your food, but the service is far superior to a carrier such as Ryan Air. From 27 October 2002, Buzz will be flying up to six flights a day from London Stansted to Amsterdam, the land of Vermeer and Amstel beer. Prices start from just £21 one way – so you've got no excuse not to visit one of the most relaxed, vibrant and cosmopolitan cities in Europe. Buzz are also launching their new winter schedule: from 27 October 2002 until 29 March 2003, you can fly to some great winter destinations – and from 14 December, they are reopening their routes to Chambéry and Geneva – great for planning a cheap skiing holiday. See www.buzz.co.uk

If there's only one trip you do in Seoul, it should be this one. The iron curtain has gone from Germany but is alive and well here. You have to take a tour. ON this occasion, the tour bus was 98% Japanese, just me and an American guy who spoke English, so we got the front seats and a guide to ourselves, and as we listened, we had the Japanese snoring champion behind us!

Panmunjon is the site of the UN base Camp Boniface, named after a UN Soldier murdered by the North Koreans. You are taken to Ballinger Hall, where you get a slide show showing the history and what you are going to be seeing. It's at this point you have to sign a disclaimer form saying you won't blame them if the North Koreans take a pot shot at you while you are on the tour!

The Observation post is next, where you look across to “Propoganda Village” an uninhabited North Korean village that has a 160 metre high flagpole, this dwarfs the 100 metre high one at Freedom village on the South Korean side. You look down also on the 4 huts, 3 blue and one silver where occasional peace talks take place. Then you cross the road and enter blue hut number 2, inside is a table with microphones down the middle.

Outside North Korean guards peer in at you, you are allowed to take photos surprisingly. But the two sets of guards glower at each other through their sunglasses, so they cannot make eye contact. The Southern guards have only half their body showing, so they are less of a target!

Back at Camp Boniface you have an all you can eat “All American” buffet lunch, chicken, sweet corn, potatoes, etc etc. You are then free to buy a T-shirt or other souvenir. By the gate is “The worlds most dangerous golf hole”! If you slice from here you won't get your ball back!

Readers may recall that for the last couple of months, we have had an appeal by Mike who was looking for his friend Bob, who was sailing around the South Pacific. Well, the good news is that Bob, Mike's friend did get in touch, so all is well. But here is a quick but fascinating piece on how Mike got to know Bob, and Bob's sailing adventures.

I, as a young engineer fresh from university, first met Bob in 1962. He had done an apprenticeship as a watchmaker and was therefore a “real” engineer in my eyes. After some initial arguments we became good friends and have kept in contact, even when I changed to medicine. About fifteen years ago he decided to sail, and bought an aluminium 40 ft sloop from a Count in Brittany, who had gone bankrupt. It was a bare hull with sails and engine, and Bob moved it to the garden of his bungalow near Chichester, and spent the next twelve years fitting it out.

He did a beautiful job, but did not have the funds to buy electronic navigational equipment; he uses a sextant. He was going to call his yacht Rabia, after my wife, but we thought that would be unwise because Rabia means rabies in Spanish. Two or three years ago, I lose track of time, he set off for Australia with his son. Their main problem was finding experienced crew because neither of them knew much about sailing. Bob's son soon gave up and returned home, and Bob has continued with anyone that he can pick up on the way. Recently he spent five months in the Marquesas looking for crew, and eventually found a treasure hunter searching for fifteen tons of gold in Tuamotu. They found lots of sharks instead. He has reached Pago Pago in Samoa and is wondering what to do after he has landed at Australia, sell the boat and retire, or carry on sailing.

A survey conducted by the English Tourist Board has revealed what the English public considers the “Seven Wonders of Britain”. Participants in the survey were asked to select their choices from a short list of 17 possibilities within England. Here are the results of the survey:

1 . . . Houses of Parliament and Big Ben
2 . . . Stonehenge, Wiltshire
3 . . . Windsor Castle, outer London
4 . . . Eden Project, Cornwall
5 . . . York Minster, Yorkshire
6 . . . Hadrian's Wall, up North!
7 . . . London Eye, London

Source: http://www.britainexpress.com

The whole story started when I wanted to go diving with the manta rays in Tobago. Unfortunately, at that time, the trip for a family of five like mine proved out to be a little bit too pricey for my shallow purse. It is then that the owner of Aquadreams, the very professional Gene Dold (Aquadreams which has its web site onwww.aquadreams.com, is a travel agency based in Miami and specialised in diving packages, with a focus on Caribbean islands; its prices are very much lower than comparable England based travel agencies and the service offered is first class [e.g., a specific email is sent to you to give you the UPS reference of a parcel that has been sent to you; the tickets for the trip came with a lot of documentation on the island and on the diving there; all questions are answered at once]), came with a suggestion which sounded more or less like “Why not try Curacao, one of the best kept secrets of the Caribbean islands?”

After some investigations (among other things, best thanks to Nigel Turner and Iona Hill who gave some very comprehensive answers to some of the questions which I had put on a divers' forum), I decided to give it a go and I must say that I have not had any single regret about it at any time.

If I were to describe the diving in Curacao at the Sunset Beach Waters Resort in a few words, it probably would be: “Easy relaxed diving on a magnificent resident reef, best dived at nights when all other divers are asleep, leaving you free to focus on what you want”.

But to give some inner feeling about diving in Curacao, let me try to make you share the sensations during one of these night dives:

“It is 9:00 o'clock p.m. and the beach is completely empty and pitch dark, except for the projector light and for the spare bulbs that are kept running at all times around the diving club, just to help the divers get ready. My buddy and myself are strangely silent, probably due to some primal nocturnal fears. When we arrive at the diving club, as agreed upon with Harry, the Dutch owner of the diving club, two tanks are waiting for us, bright yellow against the surrounding darkness, our own little lighthouses. We retrieve our equipment from the club locker and we gear up without exchanging a word, focusing on the “task” ahead.

After the usual checks (strange how at nights, such routine checks are even more important than during daytime to keep your mind from wandering onto more sinister thoughts), we walk the few meters of white sand that separate us from the sea and easily enter the refreshing waters within the boundaries of an artificially made lagoon. After taking our compass bearings, we hover over the ripples of the sand to the open sea, encountering in our way some ghostly grey snappers (Lutjanus griseus), which quickly swim out of sight.

Soon after, we come across the remains of a small plane sunk on purpose for try-dives. In the light of our torches, it comes out brightly lit in orange by all the orange cup corals (Tubastraea coccinea) that festoon it and only open at night to reveal their striking colour. This is a truly magnificent sight!

But, it is time for bigger things and we swim away to deeper grounds. A couple of fin strokes take us to the edge of the shallow waters and we peep into what we know to be almost infinite depths (during daytime, we have been able to get a glimpse of what lies down there and it seemingly goes down forever and ever, up to…150 meters, according to the local divers). We glide effortlessly down until we reached the agreed upon depth of 20 meters where we adopt a more horizontal course.

The first thing that strikes me is the variety of corals: although I am not an expert, I can easily make out more than ten different varieties in terms of forms, colours or shapes. Everywhere around them, hundreds of marine creatures are busy finding their way and food, from small, transparent larvae that hover in the open and which you can only notice at night when your torch lights them, up to some very large specimen of Caribbean spiny lobsters (Panulirus argus) and hairy clinging crabs (Mithrax pilosus), very similar to spider crabs. In between these two extremes, when looking carefully in all nooks and crannies and waiting long enough to detect movements, I can see little banded coral shrimps (Stenopus hispidus) which are commonly seen at cleaning stations, some Pederson cleaner shrimps (Periclimenes pedersoni) with their transparent bodies and their purple legs, several blue-eye hermits (Paguristes sericeus) as well as a delicate banded clinging crab (Mithrax cinctimanus) in the middle of a giant anemone (Condylactis gigantea).

Then, all of a sudden, a startling spot of bright turquoise colour catches my eye and I see a specimen of a juvenile Caribbean Reef octopus (Octopus briareus). For some unknown reason, he likes my torch and decides to spend some time playing like a young pup with me, swimming back and fro between the reef and me. Eventually, it disappears in the darkness below, changing colour at the very last moment from its original turquoise to a dark orange.

Then, something more sinister then slowly edges its way in the area lit by my torch and a hunting purplemouth moray (Gymnothorax vicinus) comes to investigate all interstices to find its “catch of the day”. The way this moray thoroughly and methodically investigates all potential hides, one after the other, leaving no ground unexplored, gives me the creeps and leaves me sorry for the fish that have hidden there. All of sudden, it does not seem a good idea anymore for a fish to hide in the reef during the night, especially if you consider the number of morays that hunt there and their methodical hunting process.

Other morays like the spotted morays (Gymnothorax moringa) which I observed during the same night dive, also seem to hunt in a similar pattern, gliding stealthily and deathly from one hole to the next, up and down. Later, I even get the chance to watch one when it catches a prey: in a split second, it is over. The frenetic moves stop, the water calms down and the moray resumes its quest for some more food.

By the time we have seen all these things, we have to get back to shore: using the shallow wreck of the airplane as an indicator to the way out, we are soon back to the club where it is difficult to acknowledge that already an hour and a half has gone by in what had seemed to be a ten-minute dive at the most.

Next time for sure, I will bring an underwater camera!

Trade Aid a charitable trust whose aim is to create sustainable employment in Mikindani, Tanzania are organising a group trip to The Old Boma at Mikindani, at the end of October. With only seven rooms, The Boma has a Country House Hotel feel, but it does mean the number of places are strictly limited.

Special airfares have been negotiated with British Airways and Air Tanzania. As a Friend of Mikindani, and reader of this e-newsletter, you will enjoy special rates at the Boma, a beautiful 19^th century German fort, faithfully and lovingly restored. The group will finish with 3 nights in Zanzibar.

The price for a total of 14 nights comprising 11 nights at the Old Boma and 3 nights in Zanzibar will be from £995, on a B&B basis (apart from the excellent food at The Boma, there are other places to eat close by, although half board is available for a small supplement) and is dependent on the standard of hotel selected in Zanzibar. The price includes free excursions every other day such as snorkelling and swimming at the scenic bay at Msimbati and a trip to the Rovuma river where you can watch hippos and crocs. The flight departs on Saturday 26th Oct from Heathrow on a non-stop BA flight to Dar es Salaam arriving at 0640 with a connecting 0800 flight to Mtwara. A Trade Aid representative will accompany the flight and the Zanzibar portion will have a guide. Return to Heathrow is on Sunday 10th Nov at 1715 on a non-stop flight from Dar es Salaam.

If you are interested, please contact: tradeaid@netcomuk.co.uk or visit: www.mikindani.com

The Beetle says that this is an excellent deal, and knows the Boma: it really is quite beautiful and the rooms are fabulous, some with hard carved mahogany beds, and white muslin abounds. There's a pool, stunning views of the bay, great cocktails as you watch sundown, good service and attentiveness – what more could you ask for!

The Frommers' August e-newsletter discussed Spirit Airline's giving away of all seats on September 11.

Now, National Airlines is following suit; the seats aren't free, but they're only a single buck, and all the money collected will be donated to a suitable charity. Vegas-based National is also offering first-class seats for their usual low upgrade fees–plus the extra dollar–meaning you can fly first-class from New York City to Vegas for only $201. You can take advantage of this deal if you can depart out of NYC, Newark, Philadelphia, Washington, D.C., Miami, West Palm Beach, Chicago, Dallas/Fort Worth, Seattle, San Francisco, Los Angeles, Reno or Las Vegas. When Spirit made their announcement, all 13,000 seats were taken in under 24 hours. For more on-line info, see www.nationalairlines.com/itn/index.asp?page=webspecials.asp.

You can book online at www.nationalairlines.com,or at any of the big three booking sites; www.travelocity.com, www.orbitz.com, or www.expedia.com.

Source: newsletters@frommers.com

The recovery from Rock Vivé's excesses was complete and it was time to see something of Andalucia's history and culture. Seville and Cordoba were considered but as our circumstances were only good for the day, the less distant option of Al Hambra was chosen – not to demean the site in anyway, as we were greatly struck by Domingos's whole hearted endorsement of our plans.

To avoid driving during the near 30 degrees C heat and to give ourselves a chance to enjoy our explorations, Alan and I hurriedly set off in our storm dirtied green Micra across the countryside, in search of the motorway into Granada. Much of this countryside, rural Spain at its' finest according to my imagination, was the perfect antidote to a hectic UK working life – whitewashed villages, rustic red earth, vegetable growing small holdings, rows of Olive trees climbing away from the roads and a sense of slowness! Ventas de Zafarraya, Alhama de Granada and Buenavista passed by all too quickly, as we were drawn into Granada's contrasting metropolitan modernity. It took all our patience to be able to follow the purple Al Hambra signs though the city and not get driven crazy by local driving habits – with hindsight it seems that my navigating took us through the heart of the city when we should have followed the well laid out ring road! There again I've often preferred journeys to destinations…

Eventually we, like many others, wove our way up towards the entrance and way from the noise of modern life. Perched on the cooler foothills of the Sierra de la Nevada, Al Hambra watches westerly across Granada and is perfectly located for generations of Moors and Spaniards to take a strategic view of this landscape. Like many well managed destinations, we visitors are only allowed in as controlled flow, rather than the mass free for alls that can ruin any experience. This gives the visitor time to enjoy the site and gave us time to enjoy one of Spain's greatest attributes – a lazy lunch outdoors! As when approaching Rome's antiquities, we were caught by fortune tellers on the way in to the site – in less than clear Spanish I think they promised me love, children, a happy career and a long life…all for a sprig of some unnamed bush and 5 Euros! Escaping their clutches was probably harder than storming Al Hambra itself!

Once inside, countless footsteps led us along the well maintained paths towards the many palaces of Al Hambra. Along the way I was struck by how the grounds are still so imaginatively maintained and how much water is used not only to irrigate but enhance the setting of the buildings themselves. No doubt the use of water in such a way during the Nasrid Dynasty (1238 – 1492) helped illustrate the power and wealth of the ruling Sultans. In spite of expressing such a political dominance, the buildings themselves bloom in highlighting what care and thought was taken in their construction and subsequent life…the current authorities describe the art of such efforts but I prefer to enjoy their splendid practical existence.

Though comparatively young, the palace of the Charles V stands out as a magnificent intrusion into the centre of the five, maybe seven, Moorish palaces. Its' square structure boldly enforces Christianity's eventual dominance across Spain and yet as a building masks an exquisite inner auditorium, beautifully marshalled with marbled pillars supporting an extravagant walk way and wide sweeping staircases. The acoustics and setting make it the perfect venue for summer concerts. Frustratingly I could not capture this entire image in one frame – my small camera just could not provide the necessary dimensions, so memory will have to serve me for the time being!

In contrast the Moorish palaces depict much more about the general life of the community that existed within. Although the fortifications of the Alcazaba stand majestically tall in guarding the approach across the Rio Darro, it is the inner buildings that take your breath away. Courtyard after courtyard rolls at you, enhancing the sense of peace that is ever present as we wandered slowly through – if the tourist noise is low enough, it seems as though you can feel past lives. At the centre of each courtyard sits some water feature – be it an ornate fountain surrounded by trees or multi coloured fish swimming long pools. Beautifully coloured and formed ceilings funnel light into the smallest recesses and small benches, built into the walls, allow views out across the grounds. Even the traditional Arabic style wooden doors reinforce a different world, a different Spain.

Now I could not be considered a gardener in any sense of the word but even I appreciated the gardens of the Generalife. These gardens sit across from Al Hambra and as you are slowly led up winding paths towards a small peak, a wonderful contrast exists between the red brick of the buildings and the vibrant and varied colours of the plant life within. Hedges mimic the walled fortifications and climbing roses arch across fountains. Vines climb up and along pergolas to provide shelter, which seemed to please our snoring neighbour as we sat to take in some of the scenery. Much of the ongoing restoration continues within the buildings at the centre of the gardens and yet there is still much to marvel at, particularly the amazing use of water yet again. Rows of fountains jet water down into cascading pools and channels seem to carry streams where gravity shouldn't take it.

Alan and I never discovered the source of so much water during our visit, but the masterful landscaping of Al Hambra certainly helped to recharge our weekend weary bodies and conclude a marvellous afternoon.

Matthew can be contacted on: chair@globetrotters.co.uk

Most Londoners see Covent Garden as a tourist trap, but they still go there, to eat and drink or pause to watch the latest jugglers once in a while. (There are actually some pretty good bars and restaurants in the area – head for Earlham St, Shorts Gardens, or better still, cross over Shaftsbury Avenue and head for Soho – no shortage of good eateries there!) For the tourists, there are the tarot readers and fortune tellers, the henna tattoo artists and the London teddy bears, but actually, a Londoner might buy some unusual silver earrings or something else you can't find elsewhere in the West End. If you are going to eat in Covent Garden, avoid the places close to the piazza. The only exception is Chez Gerrard (called rather grandly, Chez Gerrard at the Opera Terrace!) a decent enough steak-frites kind of place on the corner, overlooking the piazza with an almost impossible to find entrance.

Covent Garden market used to be a vegetable market but moved from Covent Garden to Nine Elms in Battersea in 1974. The old market halls have been preserved and are now home to stalls selling quintessentially English goods. It is open Monday – Sunday from 10am to 7pm.

The old Apple Market in the North Hall showcases antiques on Mondays and arts and crafts from Tuesday to Sunday, selling everything from jewellery and clothing to silverware and pottery. South of the piazza is the Jubilee Market, which sells downmarket clothes, shoes and household goods. The piazza itself is a great place to catch some of London's best street performers and buskers, although keep an eye on your wallets and bags.

For more info, visit: www.coventgardenmarket.co.uk

Saturday August 10th, we had the fabulously informative Eric Dondero as speaker. His topic was: “How to Learn Any Language Fast”. Eric is a Multilingual Interpreter and Certified Language Instructor from Houston. He speaks over 20 languages and can communicate in another 20 more. His new book is the “Worldwide Multilingual Phrase Book; Survival Skills for Over 40 Languages”

This month (September 14) we will have two guest speakers. Our own traveling girl, Emily Naberhaus, will show us how to pack for long trips with just a backpack. Sue Howell, a new focused market Travel Agent, will discuss her decision to specialize.

Future meetings: October 12^th and November 9^th

A reminder that Texas meetings will start one hour earlier, at 2pm and not 3pm.

Meetings are held at 2pm at the New Braunfels Public Library, 700 E. Common Street in New Braunfels, Texas. The meeting ends at 5 p.m. If you would like to continue travel talk on a more informal basis, we plan to adjourn to the Hoity-Toit, a local New Braunfels establishment. If anybody would like to enquire about meetings or help Christina, please contact her on: texas@globetrotters.co.uk