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Readers comments: best airport nominations – from Stuart, London

Skagway, Alaska is quite impressive – one shack and a runway!

Pyongyang, North Korea – loads of staff servicing very few flights!

Canaima, Venezuela, says the Beetle, is quite funny, a tiny strip cut out form the surrounding jungle with a wooden café close by with tens of stalls operated by companies all offering trips to the Angel Falls.

Write in and tell us your best airport nominations! the Beetle


Ontario:

The last meeting was on March 15: Bruce Weber talked about Yucatan.

For information on Ontario meetings, please contact: Svatka Hermanek:

shermanek@schulich.yorku.ca or Bruce Weber: tel. 416-203-0911 or Paul Webb: tel. 416-694-8259.

Meetings are held on the third Friday of January, March, May, September and November. Usually at the Woodsworth Co-op, Penthouse, 133, Wilton Street in downtown Toronto at 8.00 p.m.


Music and Travel By Padmassana

Music and travel have been synonymous since the hippies took their music along with them in the sixties. Certain pieces of music have the ability to remind of places we have been and the experiences we enjoyed there. Here are my top 5 that evoke cherished memories of my travels.

Istanbul – “Mea Culpa” by Enigma, it was the first time I had heard this piece, as it woke us from our sleep as well pulled into Istanbul in a January snowstorm. It was a wonderful way to arrive in a place I had long wished to visit.

Iran – “Silk Road, God is Good” from Lonely Planet. This haunting piece will remind anyone who has travelled in the Middle East, but for me particularly of Iran, of the early morning call to prayer resonating from the towers of the ornate mosques.

Yangshuo – “Linger” by The Cranberries. One of my abiding memories of this lovely Chinese town is this song wafting out of virtually every Restaurant and backpacker hotel in the place. Whenever I hear this song on the radio at home it always evokes memories of China.

Australia – “Highway” by Gond Wana Land from the album, “Let the dog out”. Our bus driver played this super album as we crossed Australia’s Red Centre, the didgeridoos providing a fitting accompaniment to the landscape that passed outside the window.

France – “Anni Rose” by Tulka from the Buddha bar album by Claude Challe. This piece will always be a reminder of happy days and warm evenings in the south of France, while doing an Astanga course.

Write in and tell us your musical memories and associations! the Beetle


Texas:

The May 11 meeting will meet at the library at 3 p.m., if you were not able to make the April picnic. The picnic went swimmingly – great weather, great company, good food – thanks to Christina for organising it!

Meetings are held at 3pm at the New Braunfels Public Library, 700 E. Common Street in New Braunfels, Texas. The meeting ends at 5 p.m. If you would like to continue travel talk on a more informal basis, we plan to adjourn to the Hoity-Toit, a local New Braunfels establishment.

If anybody would like to enquire about meetings or help Christina, please contact her on: texas@globetrotters.co.uk


London Markets: Leadenhall Market

In the 15th Century, Dick Whittington, who was the Lord Mayor of London at the time, designated this site as an official food market and it has been serving the people of London ever since. Archaeologists say that the site is on what was once a Roman Forum.

It even gets a mention in Charles Dickens’ Nicholas Nickleby, as a place to buy new laid eggs.

The market's name was taken from a fourteenth century mansion with a lead roof. Traders from outside London were first allowed to sell their poultry here, then in 1377 cheese and butter. The City Corporation bought the house and estate in 1411, and in 1445 the newly built granary became a general market for poultry, victuals, grain, eggs, butter, cheese etc. The market and the mansion were both burnt down in the Great Fire of 1666 and the market was rebuilt round three large courtyards. The first yard was mainly a beef market, but it also sold leather, wool and raw hides on certain days. The second yard sold veal, mutton and lamb; but fishmongers, poulterers and cheesemongers had stalls here too. The third yard was a herb market selling fruit and vegetables.

Today, with its iron and glass architecture, an excellent example of Victoriana, Leadenhall has been the location for many a film, much to the bemusement of many a city slicker as this market is in Gracechurch St, close to Lloyds of London, in the heart of the City, London’s financial district. Today's market has high quality butchers and fishmongers, greengrocers, chocolate shops and bars, with high prices perhaps to reflect its location.

The market is open Monday-Friday daytime, some shops and bars remain open into the evening. The nearest tube is probably Bank, but others close by include Liverpool St, Aldgate and Tower Hill.

Next month: Petticoat Lane


It’s A Small World!

While I spent last week in the shadow of Kilimanjaro the thought occurred to me, “Is anywhere still truly remote?” Though we were in the middle of Maasailand and a five-mile walk from the nearest town, Britney Spears still wafted through the air as we worked to lay the foundation for a Maasai health clinic. Though we have ants here so big they are used to close wounds (let them bite it, then twist their heads off), we have also brought modern surgical staple guns. Though people in the neighbouring shamba (village) were trampled by elephants last month, I saw one Morani warrior who kept his ear hole open with an Estee Lauder lotion bottle and used a dismantled Bic lighter as part of his headdress. In short, Rombo, in the far south of Kenya, is very remote and yet shockingly global. Likewise are the other Global Citizens Network volunteers with whom I am helping to bend metal for the clinic’s framework.

Source: Building Clinic in Kenya Opened Volunteer's Eyes about 'Remoteness'by Sean Maurer / Global Citizens Network (via GoNomad.com)


Jacqui’s Notebook from South America

Greetings!! When last I wrote carnival was in the offing and here it is a month later and it all seems so far away. Rio was excellent despite the weather that alternated between wet, humid and baking hot. I was staying at a fancy hotel (+++++) and the air-con. was a life saver. There was a real buzz about the place as carnival seemed to take off from the Friday onwards. The streets echoed to the samba drums and there always seemed to be someone (or some group) parading somewhere. Copacobana, Leblon, Ipanema, the Rua Branco all saw their fair share of parades and costumes, feathers and absent items of clothing. The transvestites were by far the most outrageously garbed but the theme everywhere was excess in all things – sequins, feathers, papier-mâché, bright colours and skimpiness. Sambadrome was the focus for the major samba schools to display their year’s work and the show was pretty spectacular. Music blared and repeated as each group took the maximum allowance of time to dance, sing, gyrate and party their way down the half mile long track.

It was a dazzling exhibition and went on from about 9pm to 6am on the Sunday and Monday nights of Carnival. I lasted til just after two am before I could not look at anymore glitter. There had been on and off rain all evening but that did not dim the party spirit or delight of the crowd and paraders. Some of my companions salvaged costume items on the night and I can only wonder whether (and how?) they will get them home. As we left the arena to try and find a taxi, huge piles of discarded costumes were on every corner awaiting collection by the garbage men. It seemed a little sad given that the whole thing takes a year to put together, 80 mins to show and about two mins to throw away.

The other highlights of Rio, for me, were the ´hippie market´ at Ipanema, the Cristo Redentor statue on Corcovado, catching up with Ana Amelia and having yummy Japanese food. And I saw ´Lord of the Rings´ one night too. There was much I did not get to see, or do, so I guess I will have to go back – but perhaps not for Carnival. It was great to have been there but there is so much more to Rio and when Carnival is on, everything else is shut. My only disappointment in Rio was not receiving mail I had hoped for. Only a card from Angela made it, so if any of you wrote to me at that mail drop, please understand that I did not get any letters so will not know to reply.

We bade farewell to Annie and Andy, and welcomed six new people into our group as we left Rio. This meant that our truck was filled to capacity and has 22 passengers. No more spare seats and extra room but it has not been a tough as expected either. And the new people are a nice mix of age, and interest (and a couple more Australians to boost our strength). From Rio we headed north to a town called Ouro Preto (Black Gold) that was really lovely. A colonial Portuguese town with a church on every hill, we spent the whole day there wandering around and taking gazillions of photos. A huge rainstorm obscured the views for about thirty minutes in the afternoon and showed up the many leaks in the tents some of us had bought from Martin. The other highlight of this part of the world was a visit to Conghonas – a town famous for its statues and churches, quite lovely and the connection with the Bom Jesus church in Braga (Portugal) was profound.

Back to the coast and time spent at lovely seaside places as we headed north to Salvador. My personal favourite was a tiny town called Caravellas-Barra. We stayed in a lovely guesthouse opposite the beach, with fresh coconuts served at the stall there, fish and chips to die for and long gentle sunsets. We went snorkelling one day at islands 50 kms off the coast and otherwise just enjoyed the relaxed pace of life there. Salvador was good fun. It is a vibrant and colourful city with strong influences from the slaves that were sent here centuries ago. Dark skins, white clothes, pastel houses, spicy food, and underlying it all the drum beats of their distinctive percussion music. I went to a concert one night and the atmosphere was electric. Very powerful!

Since then we have been heading west to get to here – Bonito. As the name implies, it is a very pretty place on the edge of the Pantanal, and not far from the Paraguay and Bolivian borders. It is also the action centre for the region, with ecotourism at its heart but plenty of thrills for the seekers of such things. We snorkelled to three hours down a river on Saturday. The water was so clear and the fish so plentiful pretty and unafraid, that three hours could easily have been ten minutes. It was great fun and we all looked a picture in our ill-fitting wet suits and goggles. There are birds a plenty here too and everything is green. It is near the end of the wet season so all is lush and hot and very humid. It is hard to keep up with the clothes washing as it takes only minutes for them to get sweaty and need another wash. I have also started sleeping in my hammock – outside! At first it was just a chance to check out how comfortable it would be for the river boat trip up the Amazon but with the hot weather, and being in dorms at the moment, I ended up sleeping there all night. It’s excellent and so much cooler than the dorm. Today was a visit to a Blue Grotto cave, very pretty and unusual, not to mention slippery getting in and out.

So that brings you up to date. Next we are headed north to Manaus (and hopefully some snail mail at the poste restante) and our jungle expedition, then further north and into Venezuela. I am not sure where my next update will come from but …. watch this space. It’s so hard to believe that I have been out here for five months already.

Thanks Jacqui and keep us posted! If anyone would like to contact Jacqui, her e-mail is: jacquitrotter@yahoo.com

What have you seen on your travels? Drop a line to the Beetle! the Beetle


Free London Museums: The National Portrait Gallery (NPG)

The Beetle’s second favourite museum in London is the National portrait Gallery. At the moment, this is a terribly fashionable place to be seen as it currently hosting a Mario Testino exhibition, attracting the likes of supermodels and Madonna. It costs £6 per ticket, (like gold dust) which can only be booked through the booking agency, Ticketmaster. When the Beetle manages to get tickets, she will report back on it! That aside, the rest of the NPG is absolutely free. The beauty of the NPG is that it combines art with a wonderful pictorial history of the UK, through portraits of kings, queens, courtiers and leading figures through British history. A visit here can easily take up an entire day looking around – so, if you plan it right, you could spend a couple of half days, combined with visits to nearby St Martins in the Field, the theatres in nearby St Martin’s Lane, a visit to Trafalgar Square, a walk along the Mall or down to Embankment. The closest tubes to the NPG are Leicester Square and Charing Cross. Weekends are the busiest time since the admission fee has been scrapped, so try and visit during the week, if you can. Details are as follows: NPG Website


Can you name the Seven Wonders of the World?

This is the first of a series of seven looks at the seven wonders of the world. The list was started in the second century BC and the wonders we know today were finalized in the Middle Ages. Only one still in existence, after some 4,500 years, and visible today is the great pyramid of Khufu at Giza in Egypt. It is 756 feet long on each side, 450 high and comprises 2,300,000 blocks of stone, each averaging 2 1/2 tons in weight.

Despite not having the scientifically accurate instruments of today, no side is more than 8 inches different in length than another, and the whole structure is perfectly oriented to the points of the compass. It seems likely that the pyramid was a tomb for a Pharaoh. Even in ancient times, thieves, breaking into the sacred burial places, were a major problem and Egyptian architects became adept at designing passageways that could be plugged with impassable granite blocks, creating secret, hidden rooms and making decoy chambers. No matter how clever the designers became, though, robbers seemed to be smarter and with almost no exceptions each of the great tombs of the Egyptian Kings were plundered.

Until the 19th century, the pyramid of Khufu was the tallest building in the world. A Greek traveller called Herodotus of Halicanassus visited Egypt around 450 BC and included a description of the Great Pyramid in a history book he wrote. Herodotus was told by his Egyptian guides that it took 100,000 slaves twenty-years to build the pyramid.

The site was first prepared, and blocks of stone were transported and placed. An outer casing (which has disappeared over the years) was then used to smooth the surface. Although it is not known how the blocks were put in place, several theories have been proposed. One theory involves the construction of a straight or spiral ramp that was raised as the construction proceeded. This ramp, coated with mud and water, eased the displacement of the blocks that were pushed (or pulled) into place. A second theory suggests that the blocks were placed using long levers with a short angled foot. Stones were lifted into position by the use of immense machines. The purpose of the structure, according to Herodotus's sources, was as a tomb for the Pharaoh Khufu (whom the Greeks referred to as Cheops). Scientists have since calculated that fewer men and less years were needed than Herodotus suggests.

Next month: the Lighthouse at Alexandria


More on Dhaka, Bangladesh by Atom Crater

Food (curry): The simple unexpected truth is that Indian/Bengali food in England is much tastier than the food here. Not sure why that should be, but the local curries are surprisingly bland and lack the savour of spices to which our palettes have become accustomed. More than that, there are remarkably few ‘Indian’ restaurants – I’d expected it to be like Malaysia where you can pop into a kedai serving a range of curries with roti and rice. But they don’t seem to exist, at least here in the suburban (sic) delights of Gulshan. So we’ve eaten mostly Thai and Chinese (there’s a large Chinese population here in all branches of business) more often than local. But travel to the districts has been a real gastronomic pleasure: delicious fish, chicken, mutton, more fish with delicious vegetables, rice and paratha.

Mango tree: Mangoes not yet in season unfortunately. My room looks out on a splendid huge specimen, weighed down with flowers. It will deliver a bumper crop if only small a proportion of the flowers set. Our agro-economist tells me that the fruit is ready to eat 70 days after flowering.

Air pollution: The lack of rain exacerbates the air pollution. It is acknowledged to be one of the world’s worst capital cities (Taipei, Jakarta, Lagos??), caused by dust and traffic fumes. I’ve had a sub-clinical cough ever since I arrived. There’s a permanent haze spread over the city – and it was a real relief to get out into the countryside for our project town visits. Since so many city journeys are made in open rickshaws, this is surely more than an inconvenience and must be a major public health hazard.

Arsenic: poisoning from ground water drawn from shallow aquifers is a major problem in B’desh. It is has no taste, so one is not aware of being affected (no-one has given an explanation why this problem is so particular to B’desh – yet there must be one; presumably something to do with geology). In mild form it causes unpleasant skin disease; prolonged exposure causes cancer. Only the large towns and cities have piped water supply derived from lower strata. So the vast majority of the population – including our project towns – gets its water from shallow tube wells using hand pumps. The harsh reality is that there are not the resources to ensure safe water supply for the masses – our project funding won’t stretch that far even for our 12 towns. Shallow wells are progressively being supplemented by deep wells – but not only is drilling more expensive, they also need electric pumps; hence the cost escalation.

Islam: A big surprise is how low key it is – whether in Dhaka or the small towns – compared with Indonesia or Malaysia You’re barely aware of the sound of mosques, or of mushollas in offices, or workers breaking off work to pray; yet it is clearly profoundly institutionalised in national social and political life. And there seem to be very few mosques, compared with the one-in-every-kampung in Indonesian small towns. We (the mission) surmise that Islam can afford to be less demonstrative here because it is more confident and better established; whereas Indonesia and Malaysia form the Muslim geo-political frontline in Asia, and there is a corresponding emotional need to make a loud declaration of faith in the face of the heathen hordes on the horizon. Having said that B’desh is surrounded on all sides by non-Islamic states: mostly India, with a tiny frontier with Burma.


Flying around China

Contrary to popular opinion, it is possible to travel independently around China. However, having said that, it has to be one of the most frustrating countries to travel in as the script is impossible to read for us Indo-European language speakers. Here is a trip that gets around mostly through flying, so it is a little easier to see the best parts of China this way and without having to use the services of a guide. Travelling in China in this way, you will need to arrange flights and accommodation and the rest you can fill in as and when you arrive at places.

Fly into Beijing and settle in your chosen hotel – there are plenty of good tourist class hotels. Spend 2 whole days in Beijing. Sites to see include the Forbidden City, Tian’anman square, the Temple of Heaven etc. You can take guided day trips to the Great Wall of China, the Ming Tombs and the Summer Palace.

Fly from Beijing to Xian, the Imperial capital between 1,000 BC and 1,000 AD. Spend a couple of days in Xian: see the Terracotta Warriors, the Small Wild Goose Pagoda and there are some hot springs close by. It’s usually quieter to visit the Warriors in the afternoons.

From Xian, fly to Shanghai, explore Shanghai for a couple of days, walk down the Bund, the main road by the harbour, visit the Yu gardens and the old city etc. Ask your hotel to book a day return train ticket to Suzho, a place in China made famous for its silk production. Explore the old town, stock up on silk clothes etc and return to Shanghai.

Fly from Shanghai to Guilin, arrive at the airport, arrange to be met by your hotel and ask them to book a day cruise down the River Li. This is the most beautiful journey – distinctive rounded hills, and you can get a chance to see life as it used to be many centuries ago. If you have more time, it is possible to take longer cruises down the River Li where you can sleep aboard. Your hotel will be able to advise. There are also some caves in Guilin: the Reed Flute Caves that are worth a quick visit.

Fly from Guilin to Canton, explore around and take the train from Canton to Hong Kong and finish your tour here after having spent a few days exploring around.


March for Children, New York

On May 8-10, the UN will be hosting the most important children's event since the 1990 World Summit for Children. We will gather at 4pm to start the march at 4:30pm on May 8 and converge on the United Nations Headquarters in New York. This will be followed by a rally and candlelight vigil, to end around 7:30pm. For detailed information on the march, please visit our website. The event will be a memorable experience for everyone involved and a clear message to the world. We hope that we can count on your participation and support to make this event a stunning success. If you have any questions, are planning to participate, or would like to help out in the final preparations for the march, please click here to contact us.

For those who cannot attend the New York rally, you can sign a petition against the use of child labour, to help kick Child Labour out of the world. Particularly timely, this petition asks that no child is employed in the football industry and the production of other FIFA-licensed goods and all children removed from child labour are rehabilitated and given opportunity to receive education. Please take a couple of minutes to read and sign our World Cup Campaign Petition.


Letter from Mikindani, Southern Tanzania, edited by Cherie, Projects Manager from England

This is the first time I have written an article for this publication and I should like to tell you all a little about the charity Trade Aid. It was set up in 1996 by a group of people headed by Brian Currie, a Salisbury businessman. The aim of the charity it to create sustainable employment in a village called Mikindani, a deprived and desperately poor part of Tanzania.

The first phase of the project was to renovate a badly decayed but very beautiful German fort, situated on the side of a hill and overlooking the spectacular Mikindani Lagoon. With the help of European experts, local people have restored this building to its former glory, and it is now open as a 6 bedroom, country-house hotel. All the staff are Tanzanian nationals and most are local people from Mikindani and Mtwara, the local town.

Now that this phase of the project is complete, we are concentrating on promoting the hotel and attracting visitors to this beautiful and unspoilt part of Tanzania. Mtwara has an airport and there are scheduled flights six days a week. The airport is 20 minutes from the hotel and guests are collected by the hotel staff.

There is a range of guest activities available such as a guided tour around the historic village of Mikindani, a trip to the Ruvuma River on the Mozambique boarder, snorkelling in the crystal waters of the Mnazi Bay Marine Reserve, or a two-day excursion to the fascinating Rondo Forest Reserve. Some guests may prefer just lazing by the pool at the Old Boma.

Each month we produce a newsletter written by our volunteers working in Mikindani, and I will include some of their news and activities in the next article. This is an item from our January Newsletter written by one of our Gap Year volunteers, Matthew Maddocks.

“Our Christmas at the Boma and in Mikindani was one I will never forget for a number of reasons. In George’s (a fellow volunteer) absence we awoke and had an exquisite breakfast of fresh bread rolls, jam, marmite and English tea. Eggs would have been a choice if Tanesco had been festive and let us have some power! But our palette treats were immediately withdrawn when Mtipa came through with a traditional soup he’d prepared that morning. His present to us was the intestines and internal organs of a goat he had slaughtered that very morning, stewed together! Ian and myself managed a tiny taste but we were all shocked, and playing ‘guess the organ’ was fun, but also highlighted the fact we simply couldn’t eat it all!

The day’s events didn’t really pick up until just after lunch when I slipped into the grotto we had put up in the courthouse and dressed myself in the mock up Santa’s outfit we had made. Dennis had said that it would have been the first time Mtwara region had been visited by Father Christmas and as I expected a few of the visitors were scared silly and ran out again given one glimpse of me! However, overall it was a big success and after asking names, ages, if they had been good, each child was given a gift (including George who had just returned and came to sit on my knee and tell me what a good boy he’d been.) One small Indian boy did ask me for a car however giving that he was 5 and perhaps not ready for such things I gave him 'the even better thing' from my sack!”

I hope some of you will visit The Old Boma, and see this hidden treasure of Southern Tanzania for yourselves. There is more information about the Hotel, the Charity and the project on our website www.mikindani.com The Beetle would just like to add that she visited the Boma, chatted with the staff, had tea by the pool at the Boma, and it is not only fantastic what the charity has achieved, but also the fact that they are genuinely giving something back to the community.


New York:

Hello Globies! Our next meeting will be April 6th at The Wings Theater, 154 Christopher Street. 4:00pm sharp. We have yet, another exciting guest speaker. Mary Russell, an import coming over from Dublin to speak to us about her travel to the middle east, specificallyBaghdad and Damascus! Mary is a travel writer, whose latest book will be published by Simon and Schuster on June 1. Mary will be giving a slide talk to the London Globetrotters in June, and we get the sneak preview this April! Her books are “The Blessings of a Good Thick Skirt”, “Please Don”t Call it Soviet Georgia”, “Amazonian” and, in June: “Journeys of a Lifetime”. Mary has travelled to the Sahara and the Finnish Arctic, the Eastern Caribbean, Southern Africa, Moscow, Tbilisi, Dublin and Donegal.

Last year, she spent three months travelling around Syria on foot, by bike and local transport. Last November, Mary returned to Damascus and from there travelled overland to Baghdad. These two cities have strong historical ties and her slides and talk will be about both places, with up-to-day descriptions of what it”s like to travel in an Arab country. (She was also in Israel last year, obviously she has a great interest in the middle east!) Mary always travels solo and by shoestring. The last two chapters of her next book “Journeys of a Lifetime”, are about Syria.

New York meetings are held at The Wings Theater, 154 Christopher Street (btw Greenwich St and Washington St), to the right of Crunch Fitness, in the Archive on the first Saturday of each month at 4 pm. As always, $8.00 for members, $10.00 for non-members.


Ontario:

The last Toronto GT meeting was on Friday, March 15 at 8 p.m. at the Woodsworth Co-op Penthouse, (PH) 133 Wilton Street, Toronto. (Wilton is a very short E-W street south of and parallel to Esplanade, east of Jarvis – just around the corner from St. Lawrence Market). Presenter: Bruce Weber

Topic: “SAMPLER OF YUCATAN”

For information on Ontario meetings, please contact: Svatka Hermanek:shermanek@schulich.yorku.ca or Bruce Weber: tel. 416-203-0911 or Paul Webb: tel. 416-694-8259.

Meetings are held on the third Friday of January, March, May, September and November. Usually at the Woodsworth Co-op, Penthouse, 133, Wilton Street in downtown Toronto at 8.00 p.m.


Texas:

The April 13 meeting will be at Cypress Bend Park, which is 4 blocks from the library at the end of Peace Street. Peace St. is between the library and the river – it is the only street on the same side as the library. You will pass several cemeteries before you reach the park. Go to the end of Peace St. and you will find Cypress Bend Park on the left. Our travel time talk will be in a lovely outdoor covered pavilion instead of the library (AARP are dong taxes in “our room.”) Rest rooms are close by, and handicap accessible. The Texas branch of the Globetrotters Club will have a potluck picnic in the park. The city of N.B. charges $45.00 so we will have a Globie kitty at the March meeting to cover expenses. If you are busy travelling in March and miss the meeting, c”mon in April anyway. Committees are forming, so come and sign up if you are interested! If you only want to talk about travel, come! The Globetrotters Club sparks my life. I hope it sparks yours. Christina.

Meetings are held at 3pm at the New Braunfels Public Library, 700 E. Common Street in New Braunfels, Texas. The meeting ends at 5 p.m. If you would like to continue travel talk on a more informal basis, we plan to adjourn to the Hoity-Toit, a local New Braunfels establishment. If anybody would like to enquire about meetings or help Christina, please contact her on:texas@globetrotters.co.uk


London Markets: Colombia Road Flower Market

This packed flower market is on one street and gets phenomenally busy. It starts at around 8am on Sundays only and closes up around 1pm, so get there early. Here you can buy everything from tiny cacti, bedding plants, garden gnomes, terracotta pots to shrubs and palm trees. Close by there are coffee shops, pubs, antiques shops, and restaurants so it is a great place to browse on a Sunday, maybe buy some herbs and have lunch.

The market is in Columbia Road (between Gosset Street & the Royal Oak pub), in Bethnal Green, E2. The nearest tube is Old Street tube/rail/ 26, 48, 55 bus. Open 8am-1pm Sun; closed Mon-Sat.

Next month: Leadenhall Market


Jacqui in South America

Buenas dias de Buenos Aires, todo del mundi! Can’t believe how far I’ve travelled and where I have been in the last four weeks! It seems no time since I was sitting in Pucon, Chile and writing to you about all the things I had done in Bolivia and here I am in Buenos Aires. The time has flown and been full of highlights so I shall just have to be as concise as I can or this email will be a book in itself.

After leaving Pucon, we had the trip from hell to get started on the Carraterra Austral (Southern Highway) and the first really bad weather of the trip. It poured! And blew! and the ferry was so many hours late that we thought we would have to retrace out route and enter Argentina near Bariloche (they told me later that this area was famous for its cherry brandy chocolates – damn!) but at the last minute we caught the ferry. Then got the next ferry which was also running late and spent the whole night trying to find space to sleep in the truck, whilst on the ferry, and then while our intrepid drivers drove through the night to make to next planned camp at dawn. We put up our tents in the rain and crawled into them and didn’t come out til noon.

There was a spectacular glacier nearby (which probably explained why it was so cold!) and the rain continued. Next day was more of the same but the rain held off for short periods and that included when we stopped to set up camp beside a gorgeous lake, and the third day was a repeat too with no let up at camp time. I was cooking that night and had the privilege of sleeping on the truck but first I had to get everyone else off, as no one wanted to go out in the rain. Last day on the highway and the day was clear and bright and we could finally appreciate why our driver was so keen to come this way. Stunning! Amazing! Beautiful! No words can tell you how lovely it all was. Fields of lupins, wild llama, birds, cattle, not very many people and even less traffic, blue skies and sunshine. Well worth the three days of rain and perhaps appreciated even more because of them.

We crossed into Argentina for a few days to visit the Patagonian area of El Chalten and Calafate that are known for their mountains and proximity to the Perito Moreno Glacier and Lago Argentino respectively. I went hiking in El Chalten and managed a long days walking so my ankle must be all but healed as it still aches when I am tired. And we took a tour out to the glacier and it was thoroughly worth seeing. I took loads of pictures so – you have been warned!

After this wee sojourn, I went back to Chile for the best part of a week so that we could visit the National Park of Torres del Paine. It was spectacular, glorious and any other superlative you can think of. I tried to do a hike there that out leader claimed was ´not technically difficult´ but only got half way as he failed to qualify his statement with ´but it’s all uphill¨. Great day though and I had a great picnic view when I stopped to have my lunch.

After Torres, it was back in the truck and head further south for Tierra del Fuego. By this time the days were very long and even though it was cold at night, the days were sunlit and generally warm, so, eating at 10pm was not unusual. The mornings were cold and the early starts were not always welcome but the scenery changed every mile so it was always exciting to get further south. We took a ferry across the Magellan Straits and onto Tierra del Fuego, crossed into Argentina half way across the island and got to Ushaia with no trouble at all.

More camping and a boat trip around the harbour to see the wildlife and the shores of this remote place. It is a pretty place, with multicoloured houses and built around the bay at the foot of the mountains that ring it. The weather there changes by the minute and is never the same for long and the people I met were friendly and from all over Argentina. Because of the unstable nature of the peso here, things were much cheaper than a month ago so I did a bit of shopping. Great fun and not something I have done a lot of this trip. Honest!

After all this it was time to head north and we got to Buenos Aires in four days of very long drives with only a visit to a penguin colony as distraction. The country could not have been more different to the Chile Patagonia we were used to. The land was flat and no mountains or trees to break up the horizon. The roads were generally good but like outback Australian roads were long and straight and seemed to go on forever.

Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. BA was a welcome break and despite our concerns for the ongoing political problems there, we encountered no violence except what we saw on TV. A city tour, a group meal for two birthdays, a Tango show and it was time to move on. I could have spent longer and would liked to have visited Uruguay, but the need to move on and the lack of a visa made that impossible. We left BA in sunshine but the rains soon caught us. It cleared for the evening but at 5am the heavens opened and once again, my being on the truck saved me from the fate of my co-travellers. The tents fell over as the torrential downpour undermined the pegs and soaked everything: soggy people, sleeping bags and possessions straggled onto the truck. We skipped breakfast in an effort to out run the storm and finally did so at about 2pm that day.

We got to Puerta Iguazu and stayed in cabanas as everything was too wet to use. It took about a week before everything was thoroughly dry as we have well and truly hit the tropics now and evening and morning rain are the norm rather than the exception. The Iguazu Falls are spectacular from both sides of the Brazil/Argentine border and I feel privileged to have seen the big three: Niagara, Iguazu and Victoria. All amazing but I have to give the honours to Victoria Falls. After Iguazu, it was time to head for Rio. Another three long days driving to get to the town of Paraty, where we all got to chill out a little (and clean the truck, our clothes and repack and reorganise ready for the next leg of the journey). And now we are in Rio. It”s hot. It”s humid and it”s Carnival! Watch this space!

Thanks Jacqui and keep us posted! If anyone would like to contact Jacqui, her e-mail is: jacquitrotter@yahoo.com

What have you seen on your travels? Drop a line to the Beetle!


Dhaka, Bangladesh by Atom Crater

Atom Crater, a former work colleague of the Beetle has recently returned from a work trip to Bangladesh. This month and next, we include some of his observations.

Weather report: When we arrived it was very cool, below 20 during the day and nippy in the evening. I made the great mistake of going out one evening without a sweater and felt really cold. But it’s now warming up – winter’s over. It’s still comfortable (mid 20s) but a brisk walk during the day does make you sweat. But the evenings are now sweater-less. The dry season will last until May.

Rickshaws: You simply can’t begin to describe Dhaka without mentioning the rickshaws, which are everywhere, absolutely everywhere. I heard the other day that there are 800,000 in this city of 10-13 million. They occupy a large proportion of the city’s road space, moving like a swarm of brightly decorated yellow and red insects. They irritate motor vehicle drivers like hell, but are a very efficient, low cost, environmentally acceptable (except for the choking passengers! see air pollution below) mode of transport in a city that is absolutely flat. They manoeuvre with remarkable skill, squeezing into impossible spaces, and operate their own informal tidal flow system, riding when they choose against the traffic in order to avoid congestion. As well as passengers, you see them transporting vegetables, sacks of rice, bags of cement, building materials, timber, bamboo, filing cabinets, furniture, And they’re not confined to cities and towns, but are also the dominant form of transport in the rural areas.

Auto-rickshaws: And then there are the auto-rickshaws, which zip around emitting a fierce crackling sound and pungent grey exhaust. The World Bank has just published a report that blames them (along with buses and trucks) as the principal source of the appalling air pollution.

Wheel brushes: The Flying Pigeon bicycles (made in China) have a cunning feature: two small brushes are attached to the mudguard stays, front and back, which clean the dust off the rim of the wheels as they turn, thus keeping them sparkling clean. Is this a local adaptation or does it come from China? Would it catch on UK?

Hooters: Another traffic impression (traffic – and t-jams in particular – are a major fact of life here): drivers hoot continuously, their fingers twitching in quasi-Pavlovian response to the fact that there’s something in front of them, or approaching from the side, or coming too close behind, or ….what the hell, let’s hoot anyway! As with many things, it’s so reminiscent of Indonesia, where we had to teach Yayat, our driver, to stop this habit before it drove us crazy.

More about Dhaka in April’s e-newsletter. If you would like to contact Atom Crater, please e-mail the Beetle and she will pass on any e-mails: Beetle@globetrotters.co.uk


An Itinerary for South Korea by Kevin, from London

Day 1. Depart Europe via Frankfurt, Lufthansa flights are cheapest, then overnight flight to Seoul.

Day 2. Land around noon at Incheon Airport. Take the Airport limousine bus into downtown Seoul, about 90 mins. After checking in to your chosen accommodation, Yeogwans are good value simple accommodation go for a walk to help ward off the inevitable jetlag.

Day 3. To get a first impression of Seoul you can take a city tourist bus that goes around the city, stopping atthe major sights and areas. A day pass costs 5000 Won ( US$ 6 ). In the afternoon go to Namsen Park and ascend the Seoul tower for a birds-eye view of the city and to help get your bearings.

If you are not too tired in the evening go to Itaewan district, for the nightclubs, bars and markets.

Day 4.Today you could start the day with a pleasure boat ride up the Hangang river that bisects Seoul, then spend the afternoon exploring the Gyeongbokgung Palace. The Palace is made up of dozens of buildings and museums. If the weather is unkind Seoul has many museums including a Rail Museum, a Folk Museum and even a Currency museum, hope to see the Euro in there soon!

Day 5. A day to escape the city, especially if it’s a Tuesday when a lot of the museums and public buildings are closed. Take an organised trip 60 Km north to Panmunjon on the DMZ, Demilitarised Zone. This is an area where the cold war continues. UN soldiers guard this border between the two Korea’s. You cannot go to this area except in an organised group, and you have to sign a disclaimer in case you get shot! The tour takes in the Freedom bridge and third Tunnel. You visit camp Boniface and are on the borderline between the two countries. An exciting and different side trip.

Day 6. Time to leave Seoul. Take a bus from the Seoul Express Bus station and head south for four hours to Gyeongju in the Southeast. Gyeongju is an historic city containing the best-preserved relics from the Silla dynasty. This afternoon visit the Stone Silla Cheomseongdae observatory, one of the world’s oldest and Anapji pond in town or take a taxi and visit the standing stone buddhas, or the Abalone shaped watercourse south of town.

Day 7. Today take the 40 minute bus ride to Bulguksa temple that lies east of Gyeongju at the foot of Mount Tohamsen. It is one of South Korea’s premier tourist attractions, so get there early to avoid the heat and the crowds. It is listed as a world heritage sight and is Korea’s oldest Buddhist temple, the complex is made up of over 60 buildings. Contained within are numerous treasures from the Silla era.

Day 8. Another short trip today, as we take the bus to Gimhe airport in Busan ( Aka Pusan). The flight to Chejudo Island will take only 50 minutes ( US$ 50). You can alternatively take a ferry from Busan to Cheju that takes 11 hours overnight, often through rough seas. The difference in cost amounts to only a few dollars so the flight is preferable. Mid afternoon arrival in Jeju. Take a walk to the Mysteriously shaped Dragon Head rock on the edge of town, or go to the Moksukwon road and see the optical illusion of cars rolling uphill.

Day 9. Take the bus to the Manjang cave area on the east of the island and explore the world’s longest volcanic lava tubes. Take the bus to Songsun Peak, so called Sun rise peak. If you want to be there as the sun rises, then you need to spend the previous evening in the nearby village. Walk along the beach and if you are lucky you may come across the “Sea women”. These ladies dive for pearls without the use of air tanks and are able to hold their breath for two minutes.

Day 10 Early bus to Sankumburi crater, famed for it’s diverse flora. Then head south to Sogwipo city, the islands second city, and a venue for this years football World cup. To the west of the city take in Yakcheonsa Temple, which is made completely of wood, then stroll the 400m to the Jusanjolli rock formations.

Day 11 Depending on time and tides take the ferry to Mokpo on the mainland, this trip takes 5 hours. It may be preferable to fly. You may have to spend the night at Mokpo if the ferry is late.

Day 12 Train or bus to Jeonju, a popular town with temples and pagodas in parks to the east of the city, including the so-called Two Horse head Mountain, that has a picturesque Temple at the foot of the mountain.

Day 13. Train or bus back north to Seoul. Arrive early afternoon. Last chance for souvenir shopping and wandering.

Day 14. Morning at leisure before transferring to Incheon airport for the flight back to Europe. With the nine hour time difference, you land the same day, but your body may not agree!

If you would like to contact Kevin, please e-mail him on: Kbrackley@yahoo.com