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Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina: Phoenix with one wing by Sead Turulja

Anyone, anywhere in the world, who watched the news during the first half of the 1990s must know about Sarajevo. Sarajevo is the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina, a small but green and mountainous country with 4 million people, bordered by Croatia to the south and west, and Yugoslavia to the east. The recent war (1992 – 1995) and heavy siege brought unwanted world attention to the city, not to mention approximately 10,500 dead citizens and over 100,000 wounded.

The war is definitely over, and modern day Sarajevo in 2002 has a lot to offer to a tourist. The city itself used to be a “must-visit” destination in the decades before the war, especially if you were visiting Bosnia. After the war, much money has been invested in Sarajevo on improving its infrastructure etc, to encourage the return of tourists, but so far, the visitor figures are disappointing.

Bosnia and Herzegovina is a Western Christian Country with experience of 4 centuries of Ottoman-Turk presence, which made Sarajevo a point where west and east, and north and south meet. Some call the city European Jerusalem, where in a circle of 100 meters one can see several churches, mosques and synagogues together existing and co-existing in peace for centuries. “Equal chances for all” was the motto of the city for centuries, attracting some 10 different religious communities to settle in the city.

There is something to do in Sarajevo all year round. Sarajevo is a big open-air museum, with unique architecture and artefacts from 4000 years of European history. There's plenty to see and do: drink a cold beer in one of the many street cafes, whilst watching the world pass by, one can see: public buildings, squares, fortresses, famous places such as where Archduke Franz Ferdinand was assassinated, igniting WW1, museums, churches, mosques, synagogues, old houses, and much, much more! ATM's are all over the place, as are Internet cafes.

One of the highlights to visit in Sarajevo is the tunnel that was the only supply line during the war for the city and the tunnel museum from the last war. As well as reading and signing the visitor's book, which is almost an historic document in itself, you can actually walk down a small part of the 800 metre long tunnel. You can watch a 20 minute long video, a documentary with real footage from the last war.

Sarajevo was a host to the 14th Olympic games 1984 and has a lot to offer to a winter tourist. Our mountains Igman and Bjelasnica ( 45 minutes by car or bus from city centre) offer skiing 6 months a year with all facilities such as ski-lifts etc. The city is a serious contender for the 2010 Winter Olympics!

Citizens from all of the countries in Western Europe, the U.S.A. and Canada do not need a visa to enter Bosnia and it is easy to get to Sarajevo: 7 international air carriers have routes to Sarajevo, including Austrian Air, Lufthansa, Swiss Air, and Malev. There are also trains and long distance buses connecting Sarajevo with the rest of Europe. These include a daily train from Zagreb, Croatia (9 hrs), and long distance international buses, e.g. from Split (6hrs) and Dubrovnik (5 ½ hrs).

There are hotels to stay, including a phenomenally expensive Holiday Inn. Generally speaking, a room in a modern hotel will cost 45 euros+ (US $45) per person. Staying in a hotel is more or less the same as in any country of the world and is to be recommended only for people that suffer from surplus of money and like being bored. Private accommodation is cheaper, but if your host doesn't speak English too well, and is not officially registered, (proved by ID card with photo + official seal of his/her firm), you'll probably be taken to rooms in some suburb of Sarajevo in a middle of nowhere, apart from being involved in illegal activity. Good hostels or private accommodation in the two main municipalities cost from 15 euros per person.

SARTOUR has a hostel which is situated 10 minutes walk from the historic centre of the city, and offers single, double and triple rooms for 15 euros per person with one of the best views of the city, quiet original Bosnian style atmosphere, and a courtyard and garden for night time schnapps drinking! They can provide services such as English speaking tourist guides for city tours etc. They also offer a big breakfast for 3 euros per person, bike rental, laundry facilities, self-catering, family and group facilities and give our best to make your stay secure and pleasant for fair and reasonable prices. Enjoy a glass or two of our famous Schnapps (plum brandy – 41% alc.), a warm welcome and hospitality.

If you would like to contact Sead to ask him about Bosnia, its history, staying in Bosnia, or touring the area, please e-mail him at: sartour@lsinter.net

Incidentally, all readers of the Globetrotter's E-Newsletter are eligible for a 10 % discount on accommodation in the Sartour hostel, and on tours around the city until 01.01.2003. Next month, the Beetle will be writing about her time in Bosnia.


Notes on Ecuador by Ken Williams

About Ecuador – the country is the poorest in South America where the average salary is $90 per month. As with all countries, there are many people well off. It is possible to find a very nice hotel for $10 per night with breakfast or stay for hundreds; the Hilton is there. Climate wise, it has it all and no change of seasons being on the Equator, hence Ecuador. Very warm beaches, cool mountains and jungles. All is available via plane and excellent buses. Read up on the lonely planet and Ecuador.

Quito has the second oldest University in the Americas, Lima Peru being the first. Look up the hostel Maple on the web and stay in this part of Quito. There are many such places for $10 to $15/night. You will meet many fellow backpackers and can hook-up with them if alone. Lots of cafes to use the web and make calls home. If you want to take Spanish lessons you can stay with a family or just get private lessons at the numerous schools for a few dollars per hour. Art is wonderful, so bring back many items. The Inca people make their own paints and paint on leather not canvas. Stop them while having coffee on the street and haggle with them before buying to get to know them a little. They will have their special outfits and hats and usually a man and wife. They have to be the sweetest people on the earth. If you do not wish to return to Quito usually via plane because of time or go on to the Galapagos just keep heading south to Peru.

I was warned about Guayaquil's problems with muggings, plus it is hot and muggy-pon. There are several national parks and will take you to the top of the world with their many volcanoes or to the jungles. The people known for shrinking heads and dangling them from their waists come from these jungles. They are still very primitive but now give tours into their jungles. Roast monkey is still their meal of choice. Quito has many expedition companies to all these places.

Then hop a bus south and visit many of the antique Spanish towns, more state parks and spas. The only fairly good road is the Pan-Am highway. I had an Inca guide with horses and went into the Andes. The trails are so steep that without the horses could not have returned. The other roads along steep mountain gorges are very interesting. For $15 a day you can stay at mineral spring spas near Quenca and purify your body with organic foods, drinks, body washes/oils and massages. But, I go for the history and the Inca people. Go to the Indian markets; they are fascinating.

The Inca's meal of choice is deep fried hamster and hedgehog. Inca people are very shy and non-violent. Their civilization was the largest in the world prior to the industrial revolution. Then came the Spanish with small pox, venereal disease, TB, and slavery.

The biggest problem in the world is safe drinking water. I only drink bottled water. But, in Ecuador the locals water down certain juices, and South American fruits are wonderful. They are supposed to use water that is boiled, but hotels may have new help, thus ones ends up with G.I problems of a major magnitude. Get antibiotic Rx immediately. Medical help was excellent and very reasonable in the major cities such as Quito and Quenca; the doctors came immediately to my hostel and there are pharmacies everywhere. Luckily, I always carry 3 cans of those high calorie vitamin drinks and can be purchased in pharmacies; I prefer chocolate flavour, and these helped me through my toughest period of the illness, when I could barely get out of bed to get something to eat. These nutritional canned drinks were also useful on long bus journeys there, when sanitary food was not available. You also may want to carry a better quality toilet paper; it seems the paper in some countries resembles double 0 sandpaper.


How to Learn Another Language Quickly! by Eric Dondero R.

Learning another language is not an easy task. However, there are shortcuts and even a few tricks that can be employed to make the job a little easier. Over the years I have learned over 20 languages. I have also learned survival skills for another 20 or so. I learned my first – second language, the hard way. I have learned all the others using accelerated learning methods, many developed by others, and some by myself.

My own language learning journey started with Spanish. I picked up some survival skills in the language as a sailor in the Navy after port calls in Spain, Puerto Rico, and the Philippines. Afterwards, when I attended college I took some Spanish courses as electives. This brought me to a basic level. But I desperately wanted to go all the way.

What followed were several years of difficult yet self-determined study. This included: studying the same textbooks over and over, memorizing textbook glossaries, countless hours listening to language tapes in the car, lots of Salsa, Tejano, and Latin Pop music, Mexican radio and television, and most importantly, frequent trips to the border.

Even after 6 to 8 years of study, I had only reached the advanced level. Finally, I headed to Mexico for 3 months to teach English at a well-known college in Tampico. This extended period of total immersion in a Spanish-speaking environment pushed me over the top to full fluency. Reaching the top and becoming totally fluent was a tremendous achievement. It felt truly wonderful. I would encourage anyone to follow the same path. But the amount of effort and time I invested for fluency in Spanish was enormous.

I did not learn my other languages in the same manner. Before I ventured into learning other languages I invested some time reading books on language learning methods, accelerated learning, advanced study techniques, and brain development. For my next language – Italian – I cut the language learning time in half. For French and Portuguese I cut the time it took me to learn Italian by half. Since then, I've been able to learn other major world languages to a medium level of fluency in about a year.

So, what are the tricks?

Build Your Vocabulary – There is a core group of about 50 to 100 essential words in any language that should be mastered right away. These words include prepositions, question words, a few adjectives, and some selected nouns. Learn these words and many other words can be understood eventually through context.

Memorize Vocabulary Words – Word lists should be memorized and then reviewed many times over. Saying the new words out loud, rather than just reading them silently, helps greatly. Word association, imagining an equivalent word in your native language, can also be helpful. Flash cards might seem a little low tech but they are quite effective tools for this. Even Post-it Notes placed on household items with the vocabulary word listed can help. To gain maximum retention the vocabulary list should be reviewed daily for a week or two and then again weekly for at least 4 to 5 weeks.

Always Read Aloud! – Don't just read new phrases and vocabulary silently to yourself. Read aloud. Studies show that this helps you retain new vocabulary at a much faster rate, plus it helps with pronunciation.

Don't get Bogged Down by Grammar – Let's be honest. Grammar is a dry subject. It can be an absolute incentive killer. So, just start out with a brief overview of prepositions, definite and indefinite articles, singulars and plurals, adjectives, and most importantly, pronouns. Put off learning conjugation for verb tenses for later on. Just learn enough grammar at the start to get you by. If you make mistakes no big deal. Native speakers can understand what you are saying 90% of the time through context.

Study Phrase Books – Always carry a phrase book with you for the targeted language you are learning. Study it at every opportunity including standing in line at a grocery store, waiting on a train or bus, over your morning cup of coffee, or while relaxing in the yard.

Immersion – Look for every opportunity imaginable to use your languages skills. The best way of course, is to physically go to the actual country where your target language is spoken. I cannot stress enough how critical an element this is. Even if it's for a very short time. Look for any excuse to travel to the country where your targeted language is spoken. The next best thing is to visit an area in your city or town where the language is spoken. Hang out at cafes, libraries, malls, bars, and other locations and engage foreign language speakers with simple conversation. Make friends with native speakers. Invite them over for dinner or a few drinks. Tell them that you want them to speak to you only in their native language. Date a native speaker. The absolute best way to immerse yourself quickly is to find a boyfriend or girlfriend who speaks the native language you are trying to learn.

Watch Television and Movies for Your Targeted Language – These days television stations are available in a whole range of languages over satellite and on cable. Watch them for an hour or two every day and try to pick out familiar words and phrases. Additionally, try to mimic the tone and accent of the speakers. Go to the local video store and rent movies for your targeted language. Have a 2-hour review session of vocabulary before you watch the movie. It's even better to watch them more than once.

Listen to Music for Your Targeted Language – Give your native music a rest for a short while and experiment with some music from the country of your targeted language. Many of the national bookstore and CD chains now have excellent World Music sections. Listen to stations and programs on radio for your targeted language. You can tune in to some of these stations on-line.

Listen to Language Tapes! – Purchase some language learning tapes and listen to them as often as possible. First read the accompanying booklet to get a feel for the vocabulary and grammar. Then, listen to the tapes while relaxing at home, while driving to work, on a Walkman when jogging or while working out, and even while in the shower. Be a maniac with the tapes. Don't just listen to the tapes in your easy chair or in your car once a day. Listen to them around the clock. You need to listen to the tapes about 15 or 20 times before they really start to sink in.

Take Computer Language Courses – Whether on-line or a software program, computer language courses provide good visualization for learning vocabulary words.

Immerse yourself in the language learning experience and you will learn much more quickly.

Eric Dondero is a Certified Language Instructor and Interpreter in Houston, Texas. He speaks over 20 languages. He is the author of “Worldwide Multilingual Phrase Book.” Further language learning tips, a Free Quick Spanish Lesson and a Crash Course in Chinese are available at his web site at www.portsidelanguages


Volunteer Work in Africa

The International HUMANA People to People movement is currently running over 150 humanitarian projects in Africa, Asia & Central America, working in fields such as: basic health care, pre-school and primary school education, child care, vocational training, teacher training, environment and community development, AIDS, etc. So far, more than 6000 Development Instructors (our word for volunteer) have participated in starting up and running these projects.

For the successful continuation of our work we are always looking for people, who would like to participate in the program.

The program is open to everybody, regardless of educational background, experiences and nationality. Minimum age is 18 years. It consists of 3 periods – training & preparation period in one of our Travelling Folk High Schools, the working period in a Humana project, a follow up period (evaluation & information work in Europe / USA). Through out the whole program, the Development Instructors are part of an international team.

TCE (Total Control of the Epidemic) is a Humana People to People award winning program to fight AIDS in Southern Africa. In its conception it is based on the experiences of more than 20 years of development work in and with the communities of the region.

HIV/AIDS in Southern Africa is out of control. 26 million people in this area are HIV positive, 10 million children have already lost one or both parents to AIDS. A situation that can only be managed in a great act of international solidarity. In Botswana between 35 and 40 percent of people in the sexually active age group are infected, the highest rate in the world today. TCE (TCM) has been adopted by the government of the country to fight against the epidemic. The results so far are promising, and more and more countries in the region have become interested.

On the subject of costs, we rely on contributions from the volunteers – for food, accommodation, etc. during the preparation period. Visas, flights and vaccinations are paid half by Humana, half by the participants. Scholarship programs are available. Whilst in Africa, Humana pays food, accommodation and pocket money.

We need volunteers, people with good will, hearts, souls and a lot of energy to take part in the fight against AIDS in Africa. If you think you can help, please contact Henner Rödiger on henner@volunteerwork.org or call on 0045 24 42 41 32.


Aung San Suu Kyi freed

Burma's military government has released the pro-democracy leader, Aung San Suu Kyi, who has been under house arrest in Rangoon for the past 20 months. A government spokesman told the Reuters news agency she was “at liberty to carry out all activities, including her party's” from Monday 6th May.

Aung San Suu Kyi has not had an easy time in her native country, Burma. She is the daughter of assassinated independence hero Aung San, and was held under house arrest from 1989 to 1995. She was placed back under house arrest in 2000 when she tried to travel by train to Mandalay in defiance of restrictions put on her. As a result of this, and Burma's human rights record, Burma has faced international isolation and economic sanctions. Aung San Suu Kyi returned to Burma to nurse her dying mother in 1988 and in 1990 her party was elected to power, but this was ignored by the ruling army. In 1991, she was awarded the Nobel Prize for Peace. She was not allowed to return to Oxford, England, where her husband, an Oxford don was dying of prostrate cancer as she knew that she would not be allowed to re-enter the country.

If anyone would like to read more about Burma and what has been happening, the Beetle recommends reading a fantastic book by a Burmese writer called Pascal Khoo Thwe, From the Land of Green Ghosts – A Burmese Odyssey, published by Harper Collins. It is an amazing read – see www.fireandwater.com for details.


Angkor Afloat By David Fuller

Sunrise. A paw-paw coloured ball makes the sky smoky mauve and the tiny clouds burnt pink. The land and sea are the same temperature. There is no wind. The water is still. This is a place of two skies, the modest orange sun and its paint box sky reflected in the floodwaters of Tonle Sap Lake. The birds are hardly awake, but at the water's edge there is a frenzy.

Most of the tourists here at this time have only one motive, to run the gauntlet of locals selling everything from egg baguettes to anti land mine t-shirts and climb onto the roof of a floating aeroplane fuselage without wings that will blast them across the lake and down the river to Phnom Penh. As they are shepherded past the merchants in their chequered krama they might get the idea that this part of Siem Reap is different from the Angkor temples they have clambered over for the last few days. As the boat engines roar to leave the floating village in its wake, a few photos of an upturned boat in a bamboo dry dock or a saffron robed monk under a black umbrella in a canoe are rattled off.

Thirty minutes south of Siem Reap and Angkor is Tonle Sap Lake. The lake provides not only an antidote to temple fatigue; it also gives extra insight for travellers into the strength and tradition of the Khmer empire. The Tonle Sap monsoon cycles had particular significance within the religion of the ancient Khmer. New Year is celebrated in the spring equinox. In March when the sun rises over Angkor's central tower, the flows begin to fill the Tonle Sap, bringing rich fishing harvests that supported the Khmer. The ancient Bayon and Angkor temples depict in exquisite bas-relief how the life along the lake affected all walks of life.

To ensure access to the lake no matter where the shoreline is, the houses of the fishermen, who depend on the waters for their livelihood, are designed to float on the lake's surface. Chong Khneas provides an excellent opportunity to experience the way these lakeside dwellers live. The village is home to 200 Khmer families, 250 Vietnamese families and another 200 who are Muslim. In the still morning, the call to prayer sounds over loudspeakers scattering dozing cormorants.

Everything floats. Students tie their canoes to the rail alongside the floating school. The campaign headquarters for the local politicians, the barber's shop, the gambling dens and boat builders float. The floating barge markets sell local delicacies like Elephant fish, which has developed the ability to last for several hours out of water, in case the fast receding waters leave it stranded in the mud. The boats hang a sample of their wares on a pole to indicate what they are selling.

For US$ 10 you can get on a boat to putter through the impromptu gaps between houses. The boat moves slowly, a bit too fast to take decent photos, but it feels right to see a floating village this way. You can make up your own mind about getting off the boat at the tourist fish farm to see specially bred catfish, as well as a collared gibbon a caged porcupine and a python around a smiling girl's neck. A few sick looking pelicans are chained in the sun for visitors to photograph here too.

Some of the village can be explored on foot via thin roads that are inches above the waterline so ask your motorbike or car driver to give you some time to walk around. While you are strolling, drop in at the Gecko Environment Centre for further information about the environment, people and culture of the Tonle Sap.

In the wet season the village lies at the base of the only hill for miles, Phenom Krom. Shooting across Tonle Sap on an express boat, the hill is the only landmark above the water level as far as the eye can see, so a climb provides great views back towards Siem Reap and Angkor and over the vast lake. Three weathered ninth century towers dedicated to the Hindu deities, Shiva Vishnu and Shiva await you at the top of your 140-metre climb. From here, as the practicing monks chant their prayers, you understand the ancient relationship between the stone towers of Angkor to the north and the life giving Tonle Sap.

David is trying to combine careers in internet, marketing and travel. Travel Writing and Photography is one of several projects he is currently working on. Information about other projects can be found at www.dmfreedom.com . David can be contacted by email at dave@dmfreedom.com


Final Reflections on Mikindani, Tanzania by Ian Smith

Ian, a former teacher, has worked on the Mikindani project, in Tanzania, for nearly two years and was responsible for the transformation of the Education section of Trade Aid. The legacy he leaves behind is one of sound training and education structures as well as a vision for the future conservation of the Mikindani area and its natural resources. Ian was responsible for creating the enormously successful Mikindani Tree Nursery, which, in conjunction with the local primary schools, is helping to halt the massive soil erosion problems in the area, through education and replanting. The Beetle met Ian and shared a few beers when she was last in Mikindani and can vouch for the terrific job that he and the other volunteers are doing in Mikindani.

Well about a year after I intended to leave, I'm finally going to escape the grip of Mikindani. What a place and what a project. The one thing I've found here is that you exist on two levels, high as a kite, exhilarated by the place and some small achievement that has been made or deflated and worn down by the frustrations of living and working here. There is rarely a happy medium, which is annoying as that is the state that the majority of the people in Mikindani seem to be able to achieve. I have stayed this long for a number of reasons. The people at the Boma and in Mikindani are almost to a man and woman friendly and welcoming, though I would not pretend to be closely integrated into the village even after 20 months. Language aside, the cultural and economic gap is massive and I would suggest insurmountable. Mikindani has a lovely ambience and is visually quite stunning. However to the casual observer it may appear more like a malarial infested swamp, its people living in mud huts, dressed in rags with cholera a recurring problem. You have to look beyond that though.

The project and the work have been a constant source of frustration though I think many worthwhile projects have been initiated and are now producing results. The renovation of the Boma is an awesome achievement and we must continue to spread the word of its existence to a wider audience both in Tanzania and beyond. The new volunteers have been fantastic company, have managed to keep themselves more or less healthy and achieved a great deal for Trade Aid and the Boma. Our returned volunteers Len and Alex continue to provide a vital input both on the ground in Mikindani and in the UK. It's proof of the fact that this place and project does change lives. We now have a rolling three-year plan that provides some direction for Trade Aid and should keep the volunteers gainfully employed. A couple of pet projects of mine have taken off. I'm proud of the Information Room and delighted that the tree nursery will continue to run next year and hopefully for years to come. In addition, many of the staff have developed beyond all recognition learning new skills in computers, English or other vocational activities. Developments on the hotel management side also bode well for the future.

I have also had the opportunity to travel in one of my favourite parts of the world, spending plenty of time bird watching, game viewing (which on a good day surpasses anything else the World has to offer) and generally being a natural history anorak. I've met so many great people, friendly, interesting and good company. Even the less savoury characters that occasionally pass through here have on reflection provided me with an endless source of amusement.

And finally I have had the company of the canine duo, Chagga and Diablo. Everyone says they're mad, but what I've come to realise is that you have to be mad to live here for an extended period. It's Catch 22; they are in fact superbly adapted to have a long and happy life in Mikindani. I'm sure some time in the future, I'll come back and share a small piece of that life with them.

Thanks to Sherie at Trade Aid. For more information on the work carried out by Trade Aid in Tanzania, see their website www.mikindani.com


MEETING NEWS

Meeting news from our branches around the world.


London:

Saturday 8th June 2002 – London Meeting by Padmassana

This Saturday we were treated to two splendid talks, about two different areas of the world.

The first by Peter Eltringham entitled, “The Maya World” was on Mexico, Guatemala and Belize. Peter showed us temples from the Maya period (300-900 AD), many of which are being reclaimed by the jungle, to the extent that some even have trees growing on the top of them. We saw photos of huge Maya ceramic pots found in deep caves. We saw local life such as women weaving the colourful local textiles and the costumes being paraded during Holy Week fiestas. Peter showed us the kind of transport you can expect to have to use on a visit to the area, such as small planes, high wheeled 4WD's for negotiating the jungle and the “Chicken busses” used by the locals. Peter finished with some landscapes, turquoise coloured rivers, Fast flowing rivers that can only be negotiated using inflatable kayaks and beautiful blue coral lagoons, which are a divers delight! And once Peter had emerged from the jungles having avoided the deadly snakes, his last picture was of a hammock slung between tow trees on a beautiful tropical beach.

Our second speaker was Mary Russell, although her talk was entitled “Travelling around Syria, digressing to Baghdad”, she started with a story from the former Soviet Republic of Georgia. She told us that in order to get an extension to your visa, you have to “fall ill” the day before it runs out, but only a little bit ill! You then get a sick note from a friendly doctor stating that you are too ill to travel and lo and behold your visa gets a few more weeks added on!

Mary showed us the Syrian capital Damascus, from the plain doorways of the closely constructed buildings, the bakery with its fresh flat bread and the labyrinthine souks. She showed us one super photo of a popcorn seller, whose equipment was mounted to his bicycle complete with an exhaust pipe for the cooking gasses. On returning home from Syria Mary found on her doormat an invitation to visit Iraq. It was just after the events of September 11th, but despite the uncertainty of the time Mary flew back to Damascus and then took a taxi to the Iraqi capital. Mary explained that to enter Iraq you have to have an AID's certificate, if you don't as she didn't you have the choice of paying US $60 to have the test or US $70 not to! Needless to say she chose the latter. Mary's slides of Baghdad included Saddam Hussain's Palace which he built next to the remains of what was once Babylon, Fountains, the university which is reputedly fifty years older than England's Oxford University, the hospitals full of smiling doctors and tragically ill children. We saw one positive side to the sanctions imposed by the west, Iraq now grows its own fruit and vegetables which in former years it just bought using its oil wealth. Mary's talk was a fascinating insight into two interesting and much misunderstood countries.

London meetings are held at The Church of Scotland, Crown Court, behind the Fortune Theatre in Covent Garden at 2.30pm the first Saturday of each month. There is no London meeting in August, but we will be back on Saturday 1st September. For more information, you can contact the Globetrotter Info line on +44 (0) 20 8674 6229, or visit the website: www.globetrotters.co.uk


New York:

Jason Florio gave us some fabulous insights into life in Afghanistan and entertained us with some amazing stories of his time there.

We will NOT have a July meeting due to all of our summer travel plans and the July 4th holiday. Hope to see you August 3rd.

New York meetings are held at The Wings Theater, 154 Christopher Street (btw Greenwich St and Washington St), to the right of Crunch Fitness, in the Archive on the first Saturday of each month at 4 pm.


Ontario:

The annual Toronto & Ontario GT picnic on Georgian Bay (in Meaford) is upon us, and will be held on Saturday, July 13th, 2002. As usual, our host will be Vera Blowers, and the address is:

228 Eliza Street, Meaford, Ontario tel. 519-538-5729 Program: Arrive on Saturday around noon, bring some barbecuables/munchies/salads/deserts of your choice to share with others. There will be BBQ in the afternoon, a game of croquet or horseshoes (if that's your thing), a swim in Georgian Bay or you can just sit around and talk travel. The hardy types can pitch a tent and stay overnight, watch the sun rise from the lake, go for another swim, walk through Meaford or do whatever else you might wish to. If you would like to bring and show some new and interesting slides we'll have a slide projector & a carousel available. Directions: From Collingwood: Go West along Hwy 26 to Meaford. On the first lights turn right/north/towards the lake and down the hill to a school that is at the corner of Eliza Street. West on Eliza to #228. From Orangeville : North along Hwy10 to Flesherton (there is a little “jog” West on #10 between Primrose to Shelburne), in “downtown” Flesherton turn right on Hwy 4 and after about 4-5km left/North on #13 to Kimberley and from there on #7 all the way to Meaford. In Meaford on the lights (Hwy 26 & #7) go straight down the hill towards the lake etc. If you can give a ride to someone or you need a ride to get there, please contact me (Svatka Hermanek) by email by Friday, June 28 (I will be away from my computer from that date on) or by phone before July 3 (416-503-2933). I will try to arrange car pools. After this date call Vera Blowers at the above number. Hope to see you there.

For information on Ontario meetings, please contact: Svatka Hermanek:

shermanek@schulich.yorku.ca or Bruce Weber: tel. 416-203-0911 or Paul Webb: tel. 416-694-8259

.

Meetings are held on the third Friday of January, March, May, September and November. Usually at the Woodsworth Co-op, Penthouse, 133, Wilton Street in downtown Toronto at 8.00 p.m.


Texas:

The next Texas meeting will be completely open: please come and talk about your favourite place, travels, anecdote or listen to others!

A reminder that Texas meetings will start one hour earlier, at 2pm and not 3pm.

Meetings are held at 2pm at the New Braunfels Public Library, 700 E. Common Street in New Braunfels, Texas. The meeting ends at 5 p.m. If you would like to continue travel talk on a more informal basis, we plan to adjourn to the Hoity-Toit, a local New Braunfels establishment. If anybody would like to enquire about meetings or help Christina, please contact her on: texas@globetrotters.co.uk


Airline news: Aeroflot to Re-Vamp Image!

Many travellers have their own tale to tell about Aeroflot. The Beetle has a vivid and scary memory flying from Dublin to Havana via Gander in Canada. It was December, and so cold and wintry in Gander. On final approach to Gander to refuel, the pilot decided to go around twice, which was worrying, then he decided to give landing a go, and the plane somehow missed landing on the runway and instead landed on some uncleared snow and drove the left wing through two huge snow piles. The entire Irish contingent of passengers were making signs of the cross and praying loudly.

Even Fidel Castro is said to have jokingly responded to a question asking about the most dangerous moment of his life, that it might have been one of the many CIA attempts on his life, but then again, it might have been flying Aeroflot!

According to a recent PR release, Aeroflot has hired a UK brand consultancy to give its image a lift. The consultancy are said to have remarked: the problem is one of perception….people think of Aeroflot as dangerous and unreliable, but it has one of the best safety records in the world and is value for money”

Let’s forget about the time when a pilot handed the controls to his 13 year old son, or the incident when the pilots put the plane on automatic pilot, went for a walk then realised they had accidentally locked themselves out and had to force their way back in with an axe, or the times when stewardesses served vodka actually on take off, or when a passenger cooked up a meal on his own portable gas camping stove at the back of the plane…………………

Good luck to them!


Bird watching in Tari, southern highlands, Papua New Guinea by Steve Mago

The morning was cool and fresh and immediately I knew the rest of the day would turn out perfect. From the lodge, we were looking down over the Tari Valley in Southern Highlands of Papua New Guinea. It was an incredible feeling. I mean, how many places on earth give you the unique opportunity of looking down on cloud formations. It was like looking down over the pages of National Geographic. The clouds looked like flat-lying cobwebs, occasionally punctuated in places by protruding mountain summits. Normally, you would be looking up to the sky and across the horizon to see incredible cloud formations in the mornings or evenings.

It was December 2001 and I was on this early morning bird watching trip with three American bird watchers, husband and wife, Bob and Penny and Sharyl, a lone traveller who later turned out to be a cross between a bird watcher and a diver. Reason – apart from being excited about seeing the birds in the wild, she couldn't stop talking about diving at her next destination – Alotau in Milne Bay Province, situated south of Port Moresby and an hour's plane ride away.

Our starting point was world famous, Ambua Lodge, a luxury bush material accommodation in the form of village huts, set on a hillside of flowering gardens with panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and rainforest.

The design of the huts is based on traditional architecture. Just being here is an experience in itself. The crisp mountain air is perfect for taking advantage of the many guided tours, especially bird watching. You can also take moderate walks along rainforest tracks to go bird watching, see the waterfalls cascade into crystal-clear pools or drive to one of the local villages and watch a traditional singsing (group dancing and singing).

Back to birds, the rule is to set out to the forests as early as you can, in time for the morning choruses and courtship displays on tree branches and tree tops. Too, for birds in the wild like Papua New Guinea's bird of paradise species, they perch on tree tops in the morning when it's cool and where they can drink water drops from leaves and tree branches. When the sun is up, it gets a little bit hot for them, their sources of drinking water dry up and they are gone and it can be a difficult waiting game. Out of the 43 known bird of paradise species, Papua New Guinea has 38 species and Tari has ten species including the most exotic species, Brown and Black Sicklebill, Superb Bird of Paradise, Blue Bird of Paradise and its close cousins, the bower birds. After driving for about twenty minutes, our tour bus came to a stop and the guide, Joseph told us to get out. He was first out with his tripod and a pair of binoculars. Hardly had Joseph set up his tripod when Menzies, the driver jumped out of his driver's set. He looked towards us, did a hand sign, gesturing us to come to him while whispering in some English that I hardly understood. He pointed in the direction of some tall trees and said, “Look, there!.”

Without the aid of his binoculars, Joseph, being the expert that he was, looked in the same direction, nodded in agreement and said, “Yes, Princess Stephanie! Three of them”. Bob took no time catching the bird in his binoculars while Penny and Sharyl struggled. Penny, with her own pair of binoculars pointed in the same direction, slowly whispered, “I can't see anything. Can you see anything Bob?” “Mmm, mm”, came the reply. “Maybe it's my eyes or maybe it's my binoculars,” said Penny. “Stay focused, you'll see 'em. Wait until they jump,” said Bob, almost in angry tone.

Sharyl, closely following Joseph the bird guide, was having the same difficulty spotting the birds. “I can't see either.” “There, look, it's on the tree,” said Joseph. “Which tree?” “There, on the right, under the tall tree,” said Joseph, and by this time, Sharyl was about to give up, saying, “There's an awful lot of tall trees out there Joseph. What have you got double vision?” No reply from Joseph, obviously not understanding the remark. Even I was confused and it took me a while before I saw the birds.

We had left the lodge at 6.30 am and an hour later, the sun had risen and it was time to go back to the lodge. We had seen three different species of the bird of paradise and three species of parrots. It was only an hour and the observed bird list was not long enough, but for Bob, Penny and Sharyl, they had seen the exotic birds in the wild, and that was all that mattered.

Penny said to me back at the lodge, “I am satisfied seeing only three species. My God, they are wonderful creatures. Up till now, I have only seen them on books. This is why I came and I like birds. There's something special about them that I can't explain. They are such lovely creatures and they should be protected.”

I thought I would give the last word to Sharyl. She said to me over watercress soup at dinner time, “I would have loved to have seen them closer but then again, I shouldn't complain. They were where they should be, in the wild and on tree tops. At least I didn't see them in a zoo and that's the beauty of coming to a place like Papua New Guinea. You have rainforests that are still pristine. You should not let logging to come here because they destroy a lot of the habitat.

“You have such a lovely country and you still practice your culture which is great. I am really looking forward to dive in Alotau – at least there, I can see the fish and lovely corals right in front of my eyes.”

ABOUT TARI:

Tari is in fact a Basin and situated in the Centre of the island of New Guinea. Clans in the Southern Highlands have a strong and intricate social system little affected by change. The Southern Highlands is a land of lush, high valleys wedged between impressive limestone peaks.

Tari is one of the few places in Papua New Guinea where the traditional way of life can be seen in everyday living. Ceremonial rituals are strongly observed. Men and women can still be seen wearing traditional dress, tending their gardens and pigs and building their bush material huts.

Visitors to the tribal wonderland of the Southern Highlands can stay in a variety of accommodation from basic guest houses to luxurious mountain lodges.

Tari is known all over the world for its Huli Wigmen, famous for their elaborate and colourful traditional dress, body decorations and facial paintings in vivid colours.

These proud warriors have great reverence for birds, especially the bird of paradise. They imitate the birds in ceremonial dances and decorate their mushroom-shaped human hair wigs with bird feathers, flowers and cuscus furs.

The wigs, woven from human hair, are donated by wives and children. Everlasting daisies are especially cultivated for use in the wigs, while their faces are painted with yellow and ochre. The women, by contrast wear black for their wedding and coat themselves with blue-grey clay when mourning. The women's traditional dress, like those of their men folk, has not changed over the years.


Letter from Mikindani, Tanzania: Sometimes it.s Hard to be a Woman by Nicola Brisley

This is a letter from Nicola telling us about her time as a volunteer for Trade Aid in Mikindani, in southern Tanzania.

After eight months in Mikindani I am preparing to depart with a mild sense of apprehension about returning to cold and grey Old Blighty, finding work and somewhere to live and dealing with the fact that the Little Chef breakfast I’ll be treated to on the journey back to Norfolk will cost the same as a week’s wages here. Oh well, Qué sera sera. Homeless and jobless, but plenty of tales to tell the girls over a few glasses of wine and a pizza.

I think they’ll be surprised to learn that despite the daily toil required of rural women in Tanzania they do not appear to allow themselves to be overcome by any negative spirit of bondage. Life is incredibly hard, no doubt about it, but the ‘fairer sex’ dominates hardship by accepting it as necessary for survival and embracing friendship and humour as a way of enriching their lives.

It has been with a rather embarrassed awkwardness, so typically English, that I have donned my kanga and flip-flops and taken part in women-only activities.

Despite this, the fact that my Kiswahili is still appallingly bad and that their encouragement was largely for the entertainment value of seeing a ‘mzungu’ woman display her incompetence in performing basic tasks I definitely experienced a deeper sense of what is called ‘female bonding’.

I have learnt to cook chapattis, mandazi, ugali and coconut rice and to prepare an exquisite dish of pilau rice under the patient guidance of Mama Mohamedi, Mama Abuba and her 13-year-old daughter Fikira. Standing outside in the midday sun stirring a pot of sizzling oil over red-hot charcoal left me light-headed and parched, but whilst I fussed about the heat the others just wiped the sweat from their faces with a corner of their kangas and laughed and gossiped.

I have been to a couple of funerals, but visiting Mama Abuba as she lay swathed in a kanga in a darkened room grieving for her father on the day of his burial was an especially significant occasion as my own grandmother had died just a week earlier. Many women resplendent in a myriad of colourful kangas lined the street where the deceased had lived. Most were just chatting or reminiscing, but a group of about 12 women were standing and swaying in time to the deep, guttural mourning chant redolent of primeval times. It was International Women’s Day and being one of them felt hugely symbolic.

A morning’s work at Zainabu’s shamba caused much hilarity amongst our neighbours, but left me tired and my hands blistered. Five of us walked a kilometre to the shamba, hoed out the weeds between the maize and picked cassava leaves and pumpkins whilst being attacked by armies of ferocious ants. Zainabu had lent me her boots, but they were so badly split that my feet were filthy. So, before we headed back to the village she brought me some water and washed my feet for me, not out of deference, but friendship. Walking back we shared the load of the fruit of our morning’s work and carrying firewood on my head I (almost) felt part of one of the hundreds of thousands of small groups of women on whose labours so many people depend.

More recently I finally plucked up the courage to get my hair braided. I sat on the stone seat of a crumbling colonial house and as Mama Fatuma meticulously braided each strand of hair three or four other women took turns to hold down the rest of my unruly locks. While I enjoyed the chat of the women as they gossiped about what they’d done the night before and commented on every passer-by I realised that this was not so dissimilar from a visit to the hairdressers at home!

At the risk of seeming naïve and sentimental I have to say that I am happy to have been able to break through some of the cynicism about cultural barriers with which I arrived in Mikindani and shall leave with an enduring respect for the resilience and strength of spirit of the women of Tanzania.

Thanks to Sherie at Trade Aid. For more information on the work carried out by Trade Aid in Tanzania, see their website www.mikindani.com


Deep Vein Thrombosis

DVT poses a threat to some airline travellers. In the UK, DVT used to be called economy (or coach) class syndrome, but this is very much a misnomer. DVT can happen to any one of us, whatever our style of air travel.

It is now possible to take a blood test to determine your vulnerability for blood to clot.

This test examines the number, type, form of your red and white blood cells, platelets and includes the genetic (inherited) tests including Factor V Leiden. It is estimated that 2 million people in the UK alone are at risk through the Leiden V Factor.

By identifying travellers who are predisposed to thrombosis they can be given pre-travel advice or treatment in order to reduce the risks of clot formation and it's consequences.


International AIDS Candlelight Memorial

“We must make people everywhere understand that the AIDS crisis is not over; that this is not about a few foreign countries, far away. This is a threat to an entire generation, that it is a threat to an entire civilization….” United Nations Secretary, General Kofi Annan

On May 19th, 2002, thousands of individuals in over 500 communities in 75 countries will participate in the world's largest and oldest annual grassroots HIV/AIDS event. The International AIDS Candlelight Memorial is designed to honour the memory of those lost to HIV/AIDS, show support for those living with HIV/AIDS, raise awareness of HIV/AIDS, and mobilize community involvement in the fight against HIV/AIDS. There are at least three ways you can become involved in the International AIDS Candlelight Memorial. We invite you to consider participating in one or more of the following ways:

  • Organize a Candlelight Memorial
  • Become a Sponsor or Partner
  • Attend a Candlelight Memorial

UK airline news: Easyjet buys Go

There were five low cost airline carriers in the UK: Easyjet, Go, Buzz (owned by KLM), Ryan Air and BMIBaby. Easyjet has just announced that it is paying £374m ($524m) for its rival, Go, (which used to belong to British Airways before they sold it to a Venture Capital fund).

The consolidated airline will still be called Easyjet and all Go planes will be resprayed with the orange Easyjet livery and logo. The Chief Executive says that prices will not rise and they expect to face more intense competition from traditional airlines such as British Airways and Air France.

Both companies are still operating exactly as they did before the deal was announced. They will continue to accept bookings over the phone and via their websites. Go and Easyjet will probably continue with their separate bookings systems until at least the end of October 2002. Between them they fly 78 routes. Easyjet says there is little overlap and they have no intention of dropping any of the destinations. They will also continue to operate from their all their existing UK bases.


Tiny Autonomous Town Discovered on the Swiss – Italian Border By Eric Dondero R.

In early April I took a Eurail/backpacking trip solo through Western Europe. I had the opportunity to travel throughout Switzerland. I gained a great deal of knowledge about Swiss bank accounts and procedures for securing greater financial privacy. I also passed through the tiny independent Principality of Monaco on the French coast near the Italian border.

While in Spain I visited the Andorra Tourist Office in Barcelona. It is located in the mall area of a prominent office complex at the Port of Barcelona. Andorra is located at the very top of the Pyrenees Mountains between Spain and France. It recently won its independence from France and Spain and has since become a tax haven for many Spaniards and other Europeans. Tourists often make a trek to Andorra, 2 hours by train from Barcelona, to purchase duty free goods.

But it was the discovery of yet another tiny tax haven on the Swiss/Italian border that really caught my attention.

Anyone who has ever flown into the Airport at Omaha, Nebraska has had the experience of having to pass through a tiny strip of Iowa after they leave the airport, to get to the city of Omaha. Carter Lakes, Iowa is a geographic anomaly. The town is completely isolated from the rest of the State of Iowa, surrounded by a lake on one side and Nebraska on the other.

Like Iowa, Italy has its own Carter Lakes anomaly in the Alps. Campione D'Italia is completely surrounded by the Lake of Lugano on one side, and the Italian-speaking Swiss Canton of Ticino on the other. The closest point on the Italian border is 11 kilometres away. But the Village has been a part of the Italian State of Lombardy (also home to nearby Milan), for over 7 Centuries.

It is relatively easy to get to Campione. Just take one of the wonderful Swiss trains from Geneva, Basel, or Zurich to Lugano. From Lugano it's just a ten minute ride in a taxi or a rent-a-car to Campione. Or, it's a 45 minute ride – all highway – from Milan.

Its isolation from Italy has given it a very unique status. It is almost like being in another country. It is similar to Monaco in that the town sits on a very narrow strip of coastline surrounded by cliffs. It even looks like Monaco with a Casino, boat docks, and a small palm-lined beach. The population of the town is just over 3,000. The total area is 1.7 square kilometres. Italy administers local governmental functions. However, Campione uses the Swiss banking system, currency, and post office.

It is their system of taxation that outsiders, particularly for those who are interested in financial privacy, may find of greatest interest. Basically, there are no taxes. Campione's only Casino makes enough revenue to support the town. Residents do not pay local municipal taxes, Italian income or VAT (Value Added) taxes, nor are they subject to the onerous taxation from Switzerland.

What's the catch?

Establishing residency in Campione is a little difficult. I speak fluent Italian. So, I was able to converse with some of the locals. They are a little suspicious of outsiders, with the exception of visitors to the Casino. They even seem to be a bit secretive about Campione and it's unique status. They have a good deal and they want to keep it that way. For example, it is not easy to purchase land in Campione or even an apartment, which is the only way to gain residency. Real estate is quite expensive. Though, if you are able to purchase a little land you will receive automatic residency. They say that about 1,000 foreigners now live in Campione taking advantage of its unique opportunities for avoiding taxes and corporate protections.

Libertarians and other financial privacy seekers have searched the world for attractive havens such as Campione. Purchasing a plot of land in the town could prove quite pricey. But this could be a very attractive option for a joint venture?

Note – Eric Dondero R. is the author of the “Worldwide Multilingual Phrase Book” – www.portsidelanguages.com. He is an interpreter in Houston and speaks over 20 languages. He is also active in libertarian politics and is an avid proponent of global freedom.


Follow Up on Korea, by Young of California

Young, a Korean American, living in California saw Globetrotter Kevin’s Korean itinerary in March’s Globetrotter e-newsletter whilst visiting Korea for a week with his wife and daughter after a trip to Tibet and Sichuan, China.

Young has a few hints and tips he’d like to pass on to us, particularly more interesting as Korea will see a massive influx of tourists as a result of co-hosting the next Football (Soccer) World Cup with Japan in a few weeks’ time:

1) Gyeongbokgung is a fine introduction to Korean “old palaces”, a significant part of Korean cultural heritage. An advantage is that there are museums on the grounds as you say. But if I were to pick a single palace for someone with limited time, it would be Changdukgung Palace, which is a beautiful place, especially the Piwon (Secret Garden) part. There are also regularly scheduled guided tours in English. 2) In Gyeongju, most Koreans would consider Sokuram (Stone Grotto) a must see. Last year I had a privilege of seeing it up close (beyond the glass barrier) thorough some contact, and it was a great experience to see the details of the stone carvings. Certainly not as extensive or imposing as the relief in Angkor Wat which came later, but they offer subtle and balanced beauty that you see commonly in Korean art.

3) We took a 3-day side trip from Seoul to Busuksa Temple and Andong in Kyungsangbuk-Do (the province where Gyeongju and also Taegu, one of the World cup sites are located), made easier with the recent opening of “Central Highway”. Busuksa is an old Buddhist temple dating back to the 7th century, and contains the second oldest wooden structure in Korea. Some people consider this temple to be in the most beautiful mountainside setting in Korea. Andong is a traditional town with well-preserved Korean style houses. At the nearby hamlet of Hahoe, we attended the annual festival commemorating the visit by Queen Elizabeth II 3 years ago. The highlight is the mask dance that started as a parody on the ruling class 600 years ago. From spring to fall, there is a performance of the dance every Saturday and Sunday. We also visited the most celebrated of the old private schools for Confucian scholars, Dosan Seowon, dating back to 16th century.

4) For me, the fascination of the Korean landscape and culture can be found in one setting – Buddhist temples. They are typically located deep in mountains, and many of them have survived the ravage of war throughout centuries. They are still the central repository of Korean Buddhistic practice where meditation in the serene setting is an integral part. Try to visit at least one Korean temple – it is vastly different from a Thai temple, typically gaudy and metropolitan. The most famous is Bulkuksa (often overrun with tourists), mentioned in Kevin's itinerary, not far from Daegu and Ulsan where World Cup matches are to be held. Haeinsa and Tongdosa in Kyonsangnamdo, near Busan are also well-known.

5) Visitors will find it difficult to communicate in English in Korea, especially in the countryside, even though we saw the whole country gearing up for co-hosting of the World Cup. Organized tours will be convenient but expensive. Independent travellers will need patience and spirit of adventure, but rewarded with memories of a unique culture, neither Chinese nor Japanese. Korea is much cheaper than Japan, but significantly more expensive than most third-world countries, especially in the world-class city of Seoul.