Category Archives: Main article

London:

7th September 2002 London meeting Review by Padmassana

We had two excellent speakers who both captured the essence of the countries they talked about with some fantastic photographs.

Our first speaker was Marion Bull who showed us the N’Afjer plateau in the Algerian Sahara. This area is the site of the world’s oldest rock paintings, some dating back 12,000 years. Marion explained that although UNESCO protects the paintings, many have been damaged over the last few years by Arabic graffiti, and as there have been few tourists to this area, the government has not protected them. The slides of the rock paintings Marion showed us depicted prehistoric scenes of long extinct animals, pastoral scenes of grazing cattle, newer pictures of what appeared to be a boat and fishermen and paintings of chariots being pulled by animals.

This area of Algeria is also the site of The Forest of Stones, which look like streets and stretch for 35 miles. These “streets” of rock have spectacular pinnacles, which Marion said were difficult to photograph due to the shadows cast by neighbouring towers of rock. But Marion did these wonderful formations justice with her colourful slides. We were lucky that Marion was able to show us these wonderful images, as when she was leaving the area her plane had a little mishap, and she had to spend another night in her sleeping bag on the runway tarmac.

Our second speaker was Julian Webster who treated us to some glorious images of India. These included pictures of the Ganges high in the Himalayas, right down to India’s southern tip, showing us a lifeguard complete with a pointy “Go Faster” swim hat! We saw colourful images of religious India including temples in Kerala, Buddhists in the north, Christian nuns and Oracles who treat the local people with their magic. Julian moved onto India at work, from the washing Ghats in Bombay (Mumbai), where we saw clothes being beaten clean on stones, Fish markets, Railway station bookshops with English sounding names and even the office of “The World Famous Sex Therapist”! Julian finished with some of the classical images of India such as holy cows and the Taj Mahal.

On Saturday 5th October, Eamonn Gearon will give a talk called “Walking to Siwa – and then staying there!” This features solo camel trekking in the Libyan desert and life in the Egyptian oasis of Siwa, past present and future. This is an extract from just one of Eamonn's expeditions in North Africa – he is already planning his next to Sudan/Liberia.

After the break, Tahir Shah will give a talk entitled “In search of King Solomon’s Mines.” Tahir is the third generation of his family to become obsessed with King Solomon's mines. He travelled to Ethiopia to a remote cliff face monastery where visitors are pulled up by rope, the ruined castles of Gondar, to rock-hewn churches of Lalibela, an illegal gold mine, and the hardest leg to the accursed mountain of Tullu Wallel, where legend says the shafts to the entrance to King Solomon's mines. All class competition for Rider Haggard's classic adventure novel!

London meetings are held at The Church of Scotland, Crown Court, behind the Fortune Theatre in Covent Garden at 2.30pm the first Saturday of each month. There is no London meeting in August, but we will be back on Saturday 1st September. For more information, you can contact the Globetrotter Info line on +44 (0) 20 8674 6229, or visit the website: www.globetrotters.co.uk

New York:

A change of date….on October 19th, we have yet, another interesting guest speaker!! Liz Ferber will be doing a picture show and presentation about some of her favorite exotic locations, with an in-depth look at some of their most special features. Highlights will include: India, Peru, Africa, and Thailand, specifically: Northern India, the Andes mountains and Cusco area, Senegal and the Gambia in West Africa, and the Andaman Sea, food in Chiang Mai, and the best chicken in Thailand!

Elizabeth Ferber is a freelance writer whose work has appeared in The New York Times Book Review, The Washington Post, New York Magazine, and several other publications. She is the author of ten books, is a graduate of Barnard College and received her Master's Degree in Education from New York University. She is the President of Design Alternatives, a firm specializing in environmentally-sustainable interior design. She currently lives in Katonah, New York with her husband and two children. Together, they travel to the ends of the earth as often as possible.

New York meetings are held at The Wings Theater, 154 Christopher Street (btw Greenwich St and Washington St), to the right of Crunch Fitness, in the Archive on the first Saturday of each month from 4pm -5:30pm. $8.00 for members, $10.00 for non-members.

Ontario:

On September 20, Bruce Weber & Hoang Nguyen will talk about: “Impressions of Vietnam” (with slides). Bruce, the first-time visitor and Hong returned after 15 years. We will also have some Visiting medical students talking about: “Secrets of Bavaria”

For information on Ontario meetings, please contact: Svatka Hermanek:

shermanek@schulich.yorku.ca or Bruce Weber: tel. 416-203-0911 or Paul Webb: tel. 416-694-8259.

Meetings are held on the third Friday of January, March, May, September and November. Usually at the Woodsworth Co-op, Penthouse, 133, Wilton Street in downtown Toronto at 8.00 p.m.

Texas:

14th September 2002 Texas branch meeting Review by Christina Smith

Two wonderful presentations were enjoyed by the 18 in attendance. Emily Naberhaus, a regular attendee, discussed and demonstrated packing techniques for a week or a month.

Sue Howell, a soon to be regular attendee, introduced the group to her new business Vacations Unlimited Travel, Inc. Everyone had time to share their travel stories and dreams, and do some networking before the meeting ended. Two door prizes were given.. More than half of the group continuedtravel conversation over a few beverages and a bunch of peanuts at the Hoity Toit.

On October 12th at 2 p.m, resident photographer Chris Schorre will present a slide show and provide travel facts about Croatia. As always, everyone is invited to the New Braunfels Public Library in New Braunfels, Texas to meet with fellow travelers.

Organizer of the Texas branch meetings Christina Smith says: “The monthly meetings are the exact support I need in dealing with the travel bug that bit me early in life. My desire and obsession for travel takes center stage. Fortunately the fellowship of other travelers on a monthly basis continues toenhance my addiction. I love this wonderful support group”. The Beetle says a big thank you to you, Christina for making the Texas branch what it is today – down to your enthusiasm and dedication!

The Texas branch members have decided to take a trip together! Plans are being developed for a group excursion to the Copper Canyon in Mexico for Spring 2003.

Future meetings: October 12and November 9th

A reminder that Texas meetings will start one hour earlier, at 2pm and not 3pm.

Meetings are held at 2pm at the New Braunfels Public Library, 700 E. Common Street in New Braunfels, Texas. The meeting ends at 5 p.m. If you would like to continue travel talk on a more informal basis, we plan to adjourn to the Hoity-Toit, a local New Braunfels establishment. If anybody would like to enquire about meetings or help Christina, please contact her on: texas@globetrotters.co.uk

Dubai – building a new island

Dubai has never been known to do things by halves. Tourism is a huge earner for Dubai, the tiny state on the Arabian peninsular. They already have super de-luxe hotel complexes, reputedly the world’s first 6 star hotel, golf courses created from grass imported from the United States, watered each night from a massive desalination plant. You start to get the picture that nothing is too much. And now, the Dubai government has started work on what will be the world’s largest artificial island called The Palm.

It will be 300 metres offshore, and 5km long, in the shape of a palm tree. The marketing company in charge say that it will be visible from the moon. Press information states that the project is using 415 architects and 760 labourers, working 24 hours a day to obtain the rock and sand that the island requires.

Foreigners will be allowed to own property, on a 100 year freehold basis, and there will be an estimated 3,000 villas, townhouses and apartments, many with private access to a beach and moorings. Sound tempting? Villa prices start at £350,000 or $550,000, but buyers can chose the style of their villa, from Italianate, Caribbean or Middle Eastern. 40 boutique hotels are on the drawing board, many designed according to a set of themes: Tahitian, Moroccan, Greek are just some of the styles.

For more info, take a look at: Palm Island Info

Cyprus – An Island Divided by Andy Brouwer

The majority of tourists visiting Cyprus are blissfully unaware of the pain and division that has haunted the island since 1974. To most, the image and experience of Cyprus is one of sun and sand, the snow-capped Troodos Mountains and exquisite frescoes housed in Byzantine monasteries. For the island's inhabitants its a different story altogether. After gaining independence in 1960, peace between the Greek and Turkish communities was already fragile with the Turkish minority, representing 20% of the population, retreating into ghettos and enclaves after sporadic violence and harassment. In their defence, the Turkish army launched an invasion of northern Cyprus in July 1974 and occupied the northern third of the island, leaving thousands dead or wounded and huge numbers of refugees fleeing to their respective sides of the divide. That division of Cyprus has remained to this day.

Whilst the south has enjoyed international recognition and a booming economy boosted by tourism, the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus has found life a lot tougher and depends on its sponsor Turkey for its economic survival. Separating the two factions and running almost the length of the country and dividing the island's capital into two is the Green Line, also known at the Attila Line – a buffer zone maintained and patrolled by the blue-bereted peacekeepers of the United Nations. Talks of a reconciliation between the two sides have stuttered and stalled on many occasions and feelings still run high, fuelled by recent incidents like the deaths of the three Deryneia Martyrs in 1996.

This was the background to my visit to the island's capital city Nicosia, or Lefkosia as it's called today. The holiday rep at my hotel in Pafos had whetted my appetite when he told me that crossing the Green Line wasn't a good idea, as I might not be allowed back. That statement immediately sparked my thirst for adventure and my wife Sue and I set off early one morning in our hire car to cover the 150 kilometers to see for ourselves. Our first stop in the capital was the 11th floor of the Woolworths department store on Lidras Street, where telescopes gave us a bird's eye view across into the northern half of the city. At the end of the street, an observation platform allowed us to peer into the buffer zone to see a street with rubble-strewn buildings and rolls of barbed wire, left as it was in July 1974.

On foot, we followed the Green Line westwards, punctuated by a series of UN bunkers, roadblocks, a wall of sandbags and oil drums and signs forbidding photographs and stopped at the Holy Cross RC church, isolated inside the buffer zone and guarded by a solitary UN soldier. Nearby is the only spot on the island where you can legally cross into the north on a day excursion, at the site of the old Ledra Palace hotel. As we approached, Sue's nerves became a little more frayed when we encountered up to fifty wailing Cypriot women, dressed in black mourning clothes and holding pictures of loved ones still missing since the 1970s.The stern-faced Greek Cypriot border guards made little effort to disguise their disgust at our desire to cross as they slowly copied details of our passports onto a list and pointed at a sign that instructed our return by 5.30pm. It was a few minutes past eleven o'clock.

Leaving the checkpoint, Sue and I walked quietly along a connecting road, the ruined Ledra Palace hotel on our left, now used as a billet by the UN (who have 1,500 personnel on peace-keeping duty on the island), and desolate waste ground to our right. Two female UN soldiers nodded their hello as we completed the 300 metre walk and checked into the Turkish police control building. A few minutes later and the form-filling formalities completed, we were in northern Cypriot territory and Sue began breathing normally again. No real hassle at all but a mixed feeling of excitement and unease nonetheless, heightened by the soulful wailing of the widowed Cypriot women we'd left at the border post as we crossed no-mans land.

For the next four hours we walked around the old city, along narrow passageways and empty streets, enjoying the friendliness of the people, soaking up the atmosphere and visiting a few notable attractions including the soaring minarets of north Nicosia's most prominent landmark, the Cami Selimiye Mosque. Its a working church with a strong French Gothic style but it was empty as I stepped inside and removed my shoes for my first look inside a mosque. Next door is the sixth century Byzantine church ruin known as the Bedesten and nearby is another ornate Gothic church, the Cami Haydarpasa. Undergoing restoration work is the Buyuk Han, a rare example of a Middle Age inn, known as a caravanserai. Although closed, the foreman invited us in to look around before we finished off our tour with a ten minute walk to the Turkish (Mevlevi Tekke) Museum, the former home of the mystical Islamic sect known as the Whirling Dervishes. They are famed for their spinning, trance-like dance that flourished for 700 years until they were banned in 1930.

Returning to the old city, we stopped at a sidewalk cafe in the pedestrian zone and listened to a rock band playing an open-air concert. One unusual aspect which gave Sue a few jitters north of the divide was the distinct lack of female shoppers. Instead, large groups of young Turkish men were much in evidence, either standing on street corners or wandering aimlessly and appeared to be army conscripts in civilian clothes. With an hour to go before the border closed, Sue and I made our way back towards the crossing point via the quiet back streets where buildings have been left unoccupied, others are bullet-scarred and in ruins including a church and the Roccas Bastion, where Turkish Cypriots can look through a barbwire-topped fence into the southern half of the city and what for them is forbidden territory.

The smiling faces of the Turkish police were in stark contrast to the dour look on the faces of the Greek border guards as we returned to the southern half of Nicosia via the long and eerie walk past a lone UN soldier on sentinel duty midway between the two factions. The wailing widows were still massed just past the guardroom and we were handed a flyer asking if we knew of the whereabouts of Pavlos Solomi and Solon Pavlos Solomi, missing since the morning of 15 August 1974 and the beloved husband and 17 year old son of the old woman who'd handed us the poster. Her name was Panayiota Pavlos and she told us that 1,588 people are still missing from that time, their fate unknown and the encounter was a poignant reminder of the human face of the division that still separates Cyprus today.

For more information on Andy’s travels, visit his website which has lots of travelogue stories with pictures. Andy Brouwer's website

Amina Lawal to be stoned in Nigeria in the 21st Century As you may recently have read in the papers, a court in Northern Nigeria has confirmed that 30 year old Amina Lawal will be executed by stoning due to giving birth to a child after her divorce. “The crime”, proved by Ms Lawal becoming pregnant was made at a time when the Law of Sharia was not yet legal in the area. Funnily enough, the father of the “crime” could not be prosecuted because of the requirement of 4 witnesses to the event, who, strangely have not come forward. The stoning will take place when Ms Lawal has finished breast feeding her 8 months old daughter. What’s more, Miss Universe are still considering scheduling their event in Nigeria, despite this sentence.

At Amnesty International (AI) England's home page you can sign an open letter to Nigeria’s President to protest against this cruel sentence. AI say that more than 18.500 people have already done so. To sign the letter, visit: Amina Open Letter

Letter From Lisbon Part 1 by Sally Pethybridge

Well, where do I start? I left the UK on Wednesday 24 April 2002 to start a new life in Lisbon. My furniture and other worldly possessions left the UK on the previous Friday to sail to Lisbon and were due to arrive in port the day after I did – which meant that for the next few days I was anxiously eying up the docks to see if I could see my container. Portugal is renowned for its Bank Holidays and of course that week it had one, which meant that most people take the following day and make a long weekend of it – not very usefulto someone who is keen to know if her home has arrived safely.

We eventually moved into a flat on 1 May, under the walls of Castelo do Sao Jorge. It is on the top (fourth floor) with views over the River Tejo (Tagus) and the lower part of the city. We were so lucky to get it because flat hunting in this country is not an easy business. It is a large flat as it has three bedrooms, two bathrooms, kitchen, dining room and sitting room. We also have a 2 foot wide veranda at the front as well as a small outside area to hang washing, but the bonus is that we also have a garden which backs up under the castle wall – luckily we are shielded by lemon trees and vegetation.

The roads around the area are quite narrow and even more restricted by the fact that the parking rules mean that you park where you can i.e. on the pavement, against walls, often leaving just enough room for something to go through – most cars (and some are very expensive) sports cars along the doors and battered wing mirrors etc because of it. The pavements are very bumpy as they are made up of small blocks of stone – high heels are a definite liability – something with suckers would be more useful!

I’ve found a great store, it’s Spanish “El Cortes Ingles” – a John Lewis and Waitrose over nine floors (John Lewis), basement (Waitrose) and three underground levels of parking! And on Sunday we noticed that they have opened a massive UCI cinema complex inside as well. The shop also delivers!!!! Bliss.

The weather has been glorious and I cannot tell you what it is like to sit at the dining room table and watch the sun go down over the river and the 24 of April Bridge. It is also great fun watching all the ferries/car ferries and cruise ships going up and down and backwards and forwards. “The World” was in port a few weeks ago – that is certainly some ship. Saturdays and Sundays there are quite a few yachts out as well as speedboats. I keep waiting for a nasty accident as sometimes it looks like they are on a collision course with the ferries. Oh and the last ferries are at 2.30am – bit of a change from last bus from Swindon to Malmesbury at 6.15pm!!

Tourism seems to have felt the effect of 11 September as the number of cruise ships is certainly less than normal but at least it means you don't get blown out of bed by them sounding their horns coming into port at unearthly hours.

The whole transport system puts the UK to shame. Everything works and properly. Even the trams that were built in Sheffield before or just after the war still operate and look quite quaint compared to the huge new ones covered in adverts for Kit-Kat and Sagres Beer. Prices are so low: a return ticket for a 20 minute trip was 55 centimes – not even 1 Euro.

I am having Portuguese lessons three times a week, which is challenging and trying to watch as many programmes with subtitles as possible. We have cable TV, which means we get BBC Prime (good for catching up on Eastenders) and BBC World.

Eating lots of fish – we found a wonderful place, a warren of rooms (probably totally condemnable in the UK) and if you get in there early (12.00) you can get a table. You sit very small (and rather uncomfortable) wooden stools and for the princely sum of £7 ($10) for two of us, we had a bottle of house wine, two soups, two fish with large salad, two desserts, two coffees and two ports. Service is something that still has a long way to go before it reaches what we would class the norm, so you have to expect some Monty Python type situations occasionally, but in general they like the English very much and find it flattering when you choose to eat their home cooking.

We have had two water cuts – one totally unexpected which went on for about nine hours (ugh) and one today from 9am – 6pm but at least this time I was forewarned and able to store water so we could have drinks etc. When it came back on it was a delightful shade of rust!

To contact Sally and find out more about Lisbon, e-mail:

Sallypethybridge@aol.com

The Gambia by Rosemary Hamblin

Fate has a strange knack of intervening in your live when you least expect it. 1999 had been the worst year of my life ending with the death of my father after a long drawn out illness. I just wanted to get away from everything. I didn’t care where it was so long as it was hot and I could sit on the beach, relax and recover. So I found myself in The Gambia for the first time in late December 1999. I loved The Gambia immediately. Although not scenic, I was captivated by the warmth and friendliness of the people. I had travelled extensively in Africa before but there was something indefinable about this place that drew me like a magnet. All I wanted to do was relax so I would rise early and lay on the beach for a couple of hours to set me up for the day. I enjoyed being on the beach early, most tourists were still in bed and the peace and the early morning sun revitalised me. I did not want to be sociable so I read or feigned sleep. However, I could not help but be fascinated by one lady who also at on the beach every morning. She was always surrounded by Gambians. They encircled her, sat on the bottom of her sunbed, chatting away. They called her Mama Africa. As the days passed my self-imposed exile began to waver and my curiosity surfaced. Who was she? Why were The Gambians always flocking around her? Why did they call her Mama Africa? In the end I could stand it no longer and I approached her and asked her my questions. That long conversation was to alter the course of my life. Mama Africa and her dynamic daughter Debbie worked tirelessly to collect medical equipment which they shipped to The Gambia in a container every year. They were also involved in collecting items for the schools and the emergency services. She gave me her address and I promised to try and help. Over the next ten months I collected items towards their next shipment. The more I came to know them both, the greater the respect and admiration I had for both of them. They worked tirelessly for The Gambia. The project was by this time expanding so rapidly that Debbie took the decision to amalgamate the medical, educational and emergency services under one umbrella to become an official charity. Thus GO GAMBIA was born. I was asked to become a Trustee and took on the responsibility of Sponsorship Program Administrator. We now run an educational sponsorship programme for 200 children as well as providing desperately needed equipment for the schools, hospitals and the emergency services. GO GAMBIA continues to expand and has become one of the great passions in my life. I could go on forever about it but it would be easier to log on to our website where our work is explained in detail. Go Gambia website Fate led me to that beach in The Gambia in 1999. I often look back and think how strange it was that a conversation on Banjul beach turned my life upside down when I least expected it. Any Globetrotters members interested in sponsoring a child’s education or who can assist the project in any way can contact us through the GO GAMBIA website. Alternatively, you may contact Rosemary by e-mail on: rahamblin@hotmail.coms

Bob's Adventures

Readers may recall that for the last couple of months, we have had an appeal by Mike who was looking for his friend Bob, who was sailing around the South Pacific. Well, the good news is that Bob, Mike's friend did get in touch, so all is well. But here is a quick but fascinating piece on how Mike got to know Bob, and Bob's sailing adventures.

I, as a young engineer fresh from university, first met Bob in 1962. He had done an apprenticeship as a watchmaker and was therefore a “real” engineer in my eyes. After some initial arguments we became good friends and have kept in contact, even when I changed to medicine. About fifteen years ago he decided to sail, and bought an aluminium 40 ft sloop from a Count in Brittany, who had gone bankrupt. It was a bare hull with sails and engine, and Bob moved it to the garden of his bungalow near Chichester, and spent the next twelve years fitting it out.

He did a beautiful job, but did not have the funds to buy electronic navigational equipment; he uses a sextant. He was going to call his yacht Rabia, after my wife, but we thought that would be unwise because Rabia means rabies in Spanish. Two or three years ago, I lose track of time, he set off for Australia with his son. Their main problem was finding experienced crew because neither of them knew much about sailing. Bob's son soon gave up and returned home, and Bob has continued with anyone that he can pick up on the way. Recently he spent five months in the Marquesas looking for crew, and eventually found a treasure hunter searching for fifteen tons of gold in Tuamotu. They found lots of sharks instead. He has reached Pago Pago in Samoa and is wondering what to do after he has landed at Australia, sell the boat and retire, or carry on sailing.

The Demilitarised Zone (DMZ) in Korea by Kevin Brackley

If there's only one trip you do in Seoul, it should be this one. The iron curtain has gone from Germany but is alive and well here. You have to take a tour. ON this occasion, the tour bus was 98% Japanese, just me and an American guy who spoke English, so we got the front seats and a guide to ourselves, and as we listened, we had the Japanese snoring champion behind us!

Panmunjon is the site of the UN base Camp Boniface, named after a UN Soldier murdered by the North Koreans. You are taken to Ballinger Hall, where you get a slide show showing the history and what you are going to be seeing. It's at this point you have to sign a disclaimer form saying you won't blame them if the North Koreans take a pot shot at you while you are on the tour!

The Observation post is next, where you look across to “Propoganda Village” an uninhabited North Korean village that has a 160 metre high flagpole, this dwarfs the 100 metre high one at Freedom village on the South Korean side. You look down also on the 4 huts, 3 blue and one silver where occasional peace talks take place. Then you cross the road and enter blue hut number 2, inside is a table with microphones down the middle.

Outside North Korean guards peer in at you, you are allowed to take photos surprisingly. But the two sets of guards glower at each other through their sunglasses, so they cannot make eye contact. The Southern guards have only half their body showing, so they are less of a target!

Back at Camp Boniface you have an all you can eat “All American” buffet lunch, chicken, sweet corn, potatoes, etc etc. You are then free to buy a T-shirt or other souvenir. By the gate is “The worlds most dangerous golf hole”! If you slice from here you won't get your ball back!

Buzz News: new routing to Amsterdam

Buzz is in the Beetle's opinion the only decent low cost airline. On board information includes useful hints and tips about your destination, what to do and where to stay, and what's more, you can keep it! Yes, you have to pay for your food, but the service is far superior to a carrier such as Ryan Air. From 27 October 2002, Buzz will be flying up to six flights a day from London Stansted to Amsterdam, the land of Vermeer and Amstel beer. Prices start from just £21 one way – so you've got no excuse not to visit one of the most relaxed, vibrant and cosmopolitan cities in Europe. Buzz are also launching their new winter schedule: from 27 October 2002 until 29 March 2003, you can fly to some great winter destinations – and from 14 December, they are reopening their routes to Chambéry and Geneva – great for planning a cheap skiing holiday. See www.buzz.co.uk

An Itinerary for Andalusia, Spain

The majority of this trip uses travel by train, with journeys of no more than 4 hours. It takes in Jerez, Seville, Cordoba, Granada, Ronda, Cadiz and Algeciras if you are planning to take the hydrofoil across to Morocco, if you have time and then back to Jerez. Because there are some good flight deals from the UK, you could start the journey in Jerez, or Seville, Granada or even Malaga, which is only about 1½ hours away from Granada.

Buzz http://www.buzzaway.com has cheap flights to Jerez, Easy Jet http://www.easyjet.co.uk flies to both Madrid and Malaga but Ryan Air does not fly to Spain. Otherwise, try Lastminute.com for good airline deals to Southern Spain.) If you intend to continue your stay, you may find it worthwhile to buy a Spain train pass, otherwise, the train fares are reasonable, and Spain's trains are on the whole, very efficient and clean. It's also possible to start this journey from Madrid, if that is where you happen to be: Seville is only 2 ¼ hours from Madrid by the super fast AVE train.

The Beetle has chosen to start in Jerez (pronounced Her-eth). So, what is there to see and do in Jerez? Well, the most obvious thing is to go and taste some sherry – this is, after all, the place where sherry comes from! There are lots of bodegas where you can see how sherry is made and of course sample a drop or too! There's the Alcazar, the palace and the Camera Obscura, and if you like horses, then the Jerez Riding School is for you. There is certainly enough to keep you happy and occupied for a couple of days.

From here, you can take the train from Jerez to Seville, around 1 1/2 hours, if you take an express train, second class adult single: £ 7.50 ($12) or return £15 ($23). This trip can be taken as a day trip or as part of a circuit, taking in Jerez, Seville, Cordoba and Granada.

Seville is a beautiful city, and the capital of Andalucia, with lovely old streets, lots of tapas bars and of course, the famous cathedral, which contains the tomb of Christopher Colombus, well, it may contain the remains of Christopher Colombus, his remains were brought over from Cuba in 1899, and may have got mislaid en route. There are churches, plazas, museums – many places to go and visit to keep a tourist amused, again for a couple of days.

From Seville, it is possible to take the train to Cordoba. The journey takes about 45 minutes and costs around £12 one way or $19. Cordoba is probably most famous for the Mezquita, the Great Mosque, which influenced Arabian-Hispanic architecture for the centuries to come. You will find much evidence of Roman and Moorish history in Cordoba and great food too!

From Cordoba, take the train to Granada, which is the longest journey of this circuit, takes about 4 hours and costs around £ 7.50 ($12) or return £15 ($23) – the bus is quicker and takes 3 hours. No need to say much about Granada, except that you must see the Alhambra, discussed by Matt in this e-newsletter.

The Alhambra Palace is open throughout the year except 1st January and 25th December. Visiting times are 8.30 to 20.00h (1st March to 31st Oct. Last admissions at 19.00) and 9.00 to 18.00h (1st November to end of February). Last admissions are at 17.00. Night visits in the winter season are on Fridays and Saturdays from 20.00 to 22.00h (ticket sales from 19.45 to 21.00h). In the summer on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday from 22.00 to 24.00 (ticket sales from 20.45 to 23.00). However, given the large numbers of visitors, visiting times are assigned in a system of slots, which makes it extremely advisable to book in advance, especially at peak times such as May to October.

If you don't want to risk being disappointed when you turn up, you can make a personal booking through BBV by calling the advance bookings telephone service in Spain, Tel: number 0034 91346 5936/0034 902 224460 or visit www.alhambratickets.com (Spanish only). When you have had your fill of the Alhambra, head for the Allaying, Granada's old hilly Islamic quarter and the Camilla Real or Royal Chapel.

From Granada, take the train to Ronda, a pretty and old historic town that straddles a huge gorge. Apart from the stunning scenery and views, there are plazas to wander around, old palaces and churches. Be warned, though, if you want to make this trip by train, there is only one train a day leaving Granada, otherwise, take the bus. The train takes around 2 1/4 hours and costs about £12 one way or $19. It is also possible to travel by train to Ronda from Malaga (2 hours), Cordoba (2 14/ hours), Madrid (4 ½ hours during the day), and Seville – although from Seville, you have to change trains.

If you are running out of time, then take a bus back from Ronda to Jerez, it takes less than two hours. If you have some more time, then you have two options. Option 1 is to take a bus from Ronda to Cadiz. Cadiz is a charming city, some say possibly the oldest in Europe, (I know, they all say that!), but it is full of history: the Phoenicians arrived in Cadiz in 1100 BC, and do you remember Sir Francis Drake “singeing” the beard of the King of Spain? Things to see and do include the Torre Tavira and its camera Obscura, visiting plazas, the cathedral, and you should take a coastal walk to the Castle of Santa Catalina. The train from Cadiz to Jerez takes about 40 minutes and costs only a few pounds/dollars.

Option 2 is for those who would like to go to Gibraltar or Morocco. The train from Ronda down to Algeciras takes 1 1/2 hours, and costs around £7 or US $10. Algeciras is a port town, on the tip of Spain, overlooking the Straits of Gibraltar. From here, you can make a day excursion to Gibraltar, or use it as a jumping off point to Tangier in Morocco. The hydrofoil to Tangiers takes about 2 ½ hours, is very simple and costs around £17 or $24 one way. From Tangier, it is easy to travel through Morocco by bus and train, to Fez, Meknes, Marrakech and Cassablanca (if you really must – Marrakech is far nicer!) To get back to Jerez from Algeciras, take a bus, which will take around 2 hours.

Cadiz, Seville and Cordoba are all possible contenders for day trips out of Jerez, if you are short on time.

Volunteer with Save The Earth Network, Ghana

Save the Earth Network, founded in 1988, is a Ghana based NGO dedicated to promoting sustainable development, agro-forestry, environmental conservation, international solidarity and cultural immersion through voluntary work, eco-tourism and cultural tourism in Ghana. Our aims are to help reduce poverty, hunger, malnutrition, disease, illiteracy, drug abuse, unemployment, and environmental degradation that are increasingly becoming the order of the day in most parts of the developing world.

We are a membership-based organization and also a networking tool for environmental, social and economic development activists. We also offer travellers from abroad the most socially responsible, exciting and affordable eco-friendly alternative to mass tourism.

Ghana is an English speaking country on Africa's west coast with a population of over 18 million and over 92,099 square miles. Along much of the coast stretches a sandy, grass-and-shrub-covered plain. Behind it rises a moderately high plateau broken by forested hills and steep ridges. Ghana has a tropical climate with temperatures from 70 to 90 oF. Except for small European and Asian minorities, Ghanaians are people of many tribes. Most Ghanaians are Christians but there are many Moslems and others who hold animist beliefs.

We offer volunteer placements in areas that includes renovation and construction of school buildings and libraries for poor rural communities, teaching English language in foster homes and orphanages, HIV/AIDS prevention education, re-forestation and agro-forestry through tree planting and organic farming. No special skills, qualifications or previous experience is required of volunteers – all that is required is motivation, charisma, initiative, drive and the compassion to assist the underprivileged overcome their challenges and their struggle for dignity.

Volunteers can participate in most of the programs from a period of 4 weeks to 52 weeks or more. Volunteers work four days a week, from Monday to Thursday and can decide upon the amount of hours worked each day. The cost of participating in the voluntary work program is US$250 for 4 weeks. This charge covers board and lodging and help towards the running of our organisation. Volunteers stay with host families in homes with electricity and water. We can offer a 25% discount on the cost of volunteers who would like to participate for a period of more than 8 weeks.

We also have a holiday program where people can stay with host families for a holiday, cultural exchange, relaxation and recreation or to learn the local language. The charge for this, including board and lodging is US $250 for three or four weeks. Special discounts are available for longer stays.

We offer guided three day general tours each Friday, Saturday and Sunday for volunteers and those who are interested in seeing some of the tourist attractions in Ghana. The cost of this is US $100 for the tour guide for the three days plus the costs of bus, food and hotels – all of which can be advised upon.

We also organise unique eco-tourism programs in Ghana in conjunction with tour operators in Ghana. Our eco-tourism focuses on local cultures, wilderness adventures, personal growth and learning new ways to live in our vulnerable planet. We focus on travelling to destinations where the floral, fauna, and cultural heritage are the primary attractions.

Areas of eco-tourism which we cover includes small group hiking, river rafting and canoeing, villages and beaches, culture and photo tours, traditional stories, historic sites, traditional drumming and dances, traditional houses, trekking, animal sanctuaries, nature tourism, exotic natural habitats, scenes of spectacular natural beauty etc. the cost of joining is US $200 a week including food (at restaurants) and accommodation (at hotels) and transportation (bus) and professional tour guide's charge. Participants experience rich cultural immersion and unique hospitality. It is fun, worthwhile and rewarding.

People who would like to participate in any of our programs should please contact us for more information, contact: Edgar Asare or Eben Mensah at Save the Earth Network, P.O. Box CT 3635, Cantonments, Accra, Ghana. West Africa. Tel: 233-21-667791, Fax: 233-21-231485.Email:ebensten@yahoo.com

This e-newsletter

Did you know?…you are one of around 6,500 subscribers who receive this e-newsletter each month. 53% of you live in the United States, 22% in the UK, 4% in Canada, 3% in Australia and 2% in Poland. We have subscribers in another 145 countries, ranging from Uzbekistan to British Antarctic Territory. A big thank you to all of you – and don't forget, drop the Beetle a line about your travels, hints and tips, travel gripes, travel fun etc! This is an e-newsletter for you, by you! Beetle@globetrotters.co.uk.

First Stop – Bangkok by Ingrid Styles

As I proceeded through the terminal at Bangkok's International Airport I felt the warm air greet me and a rush of excitement tickled my stomach. This was the first destination of my journey around the globe, smiling I thought to myself 'Welcome to the rest of the world!'

Cruising down the highway into the city the vast mass of buildings as far as the eye can see in all directions makes Bangkok seem a little overwhelming at first. For most jet lagged backpackers the Kho San Road is usually the first port of call, I however was lucky to have a free place to stay in Thong Lo on the other side of town.

After catching up on a few lost zeds I was taken to a Thai restaurant. I had never tasted Thai food so good. All the ingredients were so fresh and beautifully served, I am normally a fussy eater but on this occasion I wanted to try everything. If you like rice or noodles there is almost every combination to suit everybody.

Tip: Watch out for the chillies, Thai food can be very spicy!

After dinner we went to meet some of the locals. Apparently Thai people have very long names so they give nicknames to make things easier. I have a tendency to forget names at the best of times, that evening I met Jo, Bo and O. I got terribly mixed up. 'Who was who again?'

The city's name itself comes from Bang Makok meaning 'Place of Olive Plums' taken from Bangkok's original site. The Thais however call it 'Krung Thep' meaning 'City of Angels', a far more desirable name and of course why not.

Bangkok became the capital of Thailand only as recently as 1782 after the Burmese attacked the capital at Ayuthaya in 1767. Now with a population of about 10 million, spreading across 330 sq km. For such a young city you get the impression that it has learnt to run before it could walk. The natural landscape is completely flat of which little is left exposed in the protruding mass of high rise buildings and temples.

93% of the Thai population are practicing Theraveda Buddhists, so our sightseeing started at the Grand Palace home to Royalty, government offices and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. Every year there are three grand ceremonies for the changing of the Emerald Buddha's seasonal costume.

Tip: When entering a temple you must always remember to remove your shoes and not point your feet towards the Buddha when sitting.

Next was the Vimanek Mansion the biggest golden teak building in the world that has traditional Thai dancing shows next to the canal. I discovered that Bangkok used to be known as the Venice of the east. Only the spectacular Temples and Royal Palaces were built on the original land. During my stay I saw little evidence left to suggest this was ever so, however during the rainy season Bangkok often floods and ironically the streets go back to being rivers once more.

Our Last stop for the day Wat Pho the temple of the largest leaning Buddha in the world (46 metres in length). Also home to the reputable Thai massage school and what better way to end the day than leaning back yourself and receiving a massage. After an hour or two with a few pops, twists and cracks you feel very refreshed. As you go back out to the bustling streets the urban metropolis hits you once more and you ask yourself 'Did that sanctuary really exist in the midst of all of this?' Nearby the Kho San Road, the backpackers' main drag, there are bars, Internet cafes, travel agents, shops, stalls and lots of cheap accommodation, all busy with travellers coming and going.

All over Bangkok there are thousands of market stalls cluttering the streets. Tables and chairs lay along the pavement under patchy homemade canopies. Often you have to dodge yourself out into the hectic traffic in order to get past these obstacle courses. And as for crossing the road it sometimes it can seem like an eternity waiting for a gap in the traffic.

At the end of the reliable Skytrain on the Sukumvit line is the enormous Chatuya weekend market. We went with the intention of buying one pair of sandals but I could not believe the bargains and ended up buying three, so much for travelling light. The designer imitations or factory seconds you find all over Bangkok are so well made that no one can tell the difference and at a fraction of the price you just got to have them.

Tip: Haggle, you will definitely not pay the original asking price.

Thai people are more than happy to help whether it is to practice their English or to make a quick buck. No matter where you are or where you are going in Bangkok there is always someone offering a cheap ride. One evening five of us squashed into the back of a tuk tuk (a small three wheeled two stroke) and of we raced to Pat Pong. Night markets fill the side streets, bars and clubs with ladies that do all sorts of things with their private parts. Out of curiosity we took a look. Ping-pong balls, razor blades, bananas, etc within five minutes we walked out our drinks barely touched, that was enough for us thanks! Hum…City of Angels?

The great thing about Bangkok is not only is it very affordable with plenty to do in the big city but also it is very easy to get out. For a day trip, there is the beach at Pattaya, the Ancient ruins at Ayuthaya or the popular boat markets near the famous River Kwai. 1-2hrs by plane or an overnight bus or train will take you to Thailand's beautiful southern beaches, northern rainforests or ancient temples. It has been recognised that Thailand is regarded as one of the safest countries to visit in Asia if not the world and for the inexperienced traveller starting out, it is probably the best place to get adjusted to an unfamiliar culture.

If you'd like to get in touch with Ingrid, she's currently toiling away in a banana factory in Cairns right now, and the Beetle is sure that she would appreciate an e-mail! Ingrid's e-mail address is: ingrid_styles@hotmail.com

London:

There was no London meeting in August, but we will be back on Saturday 7th September when Marion Bull will be talking about her recent travels, “Travelling with the Tuareg” in the Southern Algerian Sahara and rock paintings of the Tassili N'Ajjer.

Julian Webster will be sharing his thoughts and slides: “India – a Kaleidoscope of Memories, Moments and Surprises.

London meetings are held at The Church of Scotland, Crown Court, behind the Fortune Theatre in Covent Garden at 2.30pm the first Saturday of each month. There is no London meeting in August, but we will be back on Saturday 1st September. For more information, you can contact the Globetrotter Info line on +44 (0) 20 8674 6229, or visit the website: www.globetrotters.co.uk

New York:

HOLLAND BY BIKE! Rob Lewis, one of our own, will be giving a slide show and lecture about Holland and perhaps select areas of England and Ireland. Come join us for our Sept. kick off meeting! Should be amazing! Away from the tourist trail, the real Holland of dunes, rivers, dikes, canals, lowlands, windmills and castles can be reached via the Landelijk Fietsplatform (LF) routes – 3000 miles of long distance cycle routes. Robert will be giving a slide show and discussing the routes, sights, and stresses of trying to circle the Netherlands during a 7 day self guided tour. Robert Lewis is a recent arrival to NY, having spent 8 years living in Hong Kong working as an equity research analyst focusing on Asian technology companies. Robert has travelled extensively throughout Europe and Asia, and has taken his bicycle to Australia, New Zealand and Japan.

New York meetings are held at The Wings Theater, 154 Christopher Street (btw Greenwich St and Washington St), to the right of Crunch Fitness, in the Archive on the first Saturday of each month at 4 pm.

Ontario:

For information on Ontario meetings, please contact: Svatka Hermanek:

shermanek@schulich.yorku.ca or Bruce Weber: tel. 416-203-0911 or Paul Webb: tel. 416-694-8259.

Meetings are held on the third Friday of January, March, May, September and November. Usually at the Woodsworth Co-op, Penthouse, 133, Wilton Street in downtown Toronto at 8.00 p.m.

Texas:

Saturday August 10th, we had the fabulously informative Eric Dondero as speaker. His topic was: “How to Learn Any Language Fast”. Eric is a Multilingual Interpreter and Certified Language Instructor from Houston. He speaks over 20 languages and can communicate in another 20 more. His new book is the “Worldwide Multilingual Phrase Book; Survival Skills for Over 40 Languages”

This month (September 14) we will have two guest speakers. Our own traveling girl, Emily Naberhaus, will show us how to pack for long trips with just a backpack. Sue Howell, a new focused market Travel Agent, will discuss her decision to specialize.

Future meetings: October 12th and November 9th

A reminder that Texas meetings will start one hour earlier, at 2pm and not 3pm.

Meetings are held at 2pm at the New Braunfels Public Library, 700 E. Common Street in New Braunfels, Texas. The meeting ends at 5 p.m. If you would like to continue travel talk on a more informal basis, we plan to adjourn to the Hoity-Toit, a local New Braunfels establishment. If anybody would like to enquire about meetings or help Christina, please contact her on: texas@globetrotters.co.uk

London Markets: Covent Garden

Most Londoners see Covent Garden as a tourist trap, but they still go there, to eat and drink or pause to watch the latest jugglers once in a while. (There are actually some pretty good bars and restaurants in the area – head for Earlham St, Shorts Gardens, or better still, cross over Shaftsbury Avenue and head for Soho – no shortage of good eateries there!) For the tourists, there are the tarot readers and fortune tellers, the henna tattoo artists and the London teddy bears, but actually, a Londoner might buy some unusual silver earrings or something else you can't find elsewhere in the West End. If you are going to eat in Covent Garden, avoid the places close to the piazza. The only exception is Chez Gerrard (called rather grandly, Chez Gerrard at the Opera Terrace!) a decent enough steak-frites kind of place on the corner, overlooking the piazza with an almost impossible to find entrance.

Covent Garden market used to be a vegetable market but moved from Covent Garden to Nine Elms in Battersea in 1974. The old market halls have been preserved and are now home to stalls selling quintessentially English goods. It is open Monday – Sunday from 10am to 7pm.

The old Apple Market in the North Hall showcases antiques on Mondays and arts and crafts from Tuesday to Sunday, selling everything from jewellery and clothing to silverware and pottery. South of the piazza is the Jubilee Market, which sells downmarket clothes, shoes and household goods. The piazza itself is a great place to catch some of London's best street performers and buskers, although keep an eye on your wallets and bags.

For more info, visit: www.coventgardenmarket.co.uk