Well, where do I start? I left the UK on Wednesday 24 April 2002 to start a new life in Lisbon. My furniture and other worldly possessions left the UK on the previous Friday to sail to Lisbon and were due to arrive in port the day after I did – which meant that for the next few days I was anxiously eying up the docks to see if I could see my container. Portugal is renowned for its Bank Holidays and of course that week it had one, which meant that most people take the following day and make a long weekend of it – not very usefulto someone who is keen to know if her home has arrived safely.

We eventually moved into a flat on 1 May, under the walls of Castelo do Sao Jorge. It is on the top (fourth floor) with views over the River Tejo (Tagus) and the lower part of the city. We were so lucky to get it because flat hunting in this country is not an easy business. It is a large flat as it has three bedrooms, two bathrooms, kitchen, dining room and sitting room. We also have a 2 foot wide veranda at the front as well as a small outside area to hang washing, but the bonus is that we also have a garden which backs up under the castle wall – luckily we are shielded by lemon trees and vegetation.

The roads around the area are quite narrow and even more restricted by the fact that the parking rules mean that you park where you can i.e. on the pavement, against walls, often leaving just enough room for something to go through – most cars (and some are very expensive) sports cars along the doors and battered wing mirrors etc because of it. The pavements are very bumpy as they are made up of small blocks of stone – high heels are a definite liability – something with suckers would be more useful!

I’ve found a great store, it’s Spanish “El Cortes Ingles” – a John Lewis and Waitrose over nine floors (John Lewis), basement (Waitrose) and three underground levels of parking! And on Sunday we noticed that they have opened a massive UCI cinema complex inside as well. The shop also delivers!!!! Bliss.

The weather has been glorious and I cannot tell you what it is like to sit at the dining room table and watch the sun go down over the river and the 24 of April Bridge. It is also great fun watching all the ferries/car ferries and cruise ships going up and down and backwards and forwards. “The World” was in port a few weeks ago – that is certainly some ship. Saturdays and Sundays there are quite a few yachts out as well as speedboats. I keep waiting for a nasty accident as sometimes it looks like they are on a collision course with the ferries. Oh and the last ferries are at 2.30am – bit of a change from last bus from Swindon to Malmesbury at 6.15pm!!

Tourism seems to have felt the effect of 11 September as the number of cruise ships is certainly less than normal but at least it means you don't get blown out of bed by them sounding their horns coming into port at unearthly hours.

The whole transport system puts the UK to shame. Everything works and properly. Even the trams that were built in Sheffield before or just after the war still operate and look quite quaint compared to the huge new ones covered in adverts for Kit-Kat and Sagres Beer. Prices are so low: a return ticket for a 20 minute trip was 55 centimes – not even 1 Euro.

I am having Portuguese lessons three times a week, which is challenging and trying to watch as many programmes with subtitles as possible. We have cable TV, which means we get BBC Prime (good for catching up on Eastenders) and BBC World.

Eating lots of fish – we found a wonderful place, a warren of rooms (probably totally condemnable in the UK) and if you get in there early (12.00) you can get a table. You sit very small (and rather uncomfortable) wooden stools and for the princely sum of £7 ($10) for two of us, we had a bottle of house wine, two soups, two fish with large salad, two desserts, two coffees and two ports. Service is something that still has a long way to go before it reaches what we would class the norm, so you have to expect some Monty Python type situations occasionally, but in general they like the English very much and find it flattering when you choose to eat their home cooking.

We have had two water cuts – one totally unexpected which went on for about nine hours (ugh) and one today from 9am – 6pm but at least this time I was forewarned and able to store water so we could have drinks etc. When it came back on it was a delightful shade of rust!

To contact Sally and find out more about Lisbon, e-mail:

Sallypethybridge@aol.com

Fate has a strange knack of intervening in your live when you least expect it. 1999 had been the worst year of my life ending with the death of my father after a long drawn out illness. I just wanted to get away from everything. I didn’t care where it was so long as it was hot and I could sit on the beach, relax and recover. So I found myself in The Gambia for the first time in late December 1999. I loved The Gambia immediately. Although not scenic, I was captivated by the warmth and friendliness of the people. I had travelled extensively in Africa before but there was something indefinable about this place that drew me like a magnet. All I wanted to do was relax so I would rise early and lay on the beach for a couple of hours to set me up for the day. I enjoyed being on the beach early, most tourists were still in bed and the peace and the early morning sun revitalised me. I did not want to be sociable so I read or feigned sleep. However, I could not help but be fascinated by one lady who also at on the beach every morning. She was always surrounded by Gambians. They encircled her, sat on the bottom of her sunbed, chatting away. They called her Mama Africa. As the days passed my self-imposed exile began to waver and my curiosity surfaced. Who was she? Why were The Gambians always flocking around her? Why did they call her Mama Africa? In the end I could stand it no longer and I approached her and asked her my questions. That long conversation was to alter the course of my life. Mama Africa and her dynamic daughter Debbie worked tirelessly to collect medical equipment which they shipped to The Gambia in a container every year. They were also involved in collecting items for the schools and the emergency services. She gave me her address and I promised to try and help. Over the next ten months I collected items towards their next shipment. The more I came to know them both, the greater the respect and admiration I had for both of them. They worked tirelessly for The Gambia. The project was by this time expanding so rapidly that Debbie took the decision to amalgamate the medical, educational and emergency services under one umbrella to become an official charity. Thus GO GAMBIA was born. I was asked to become a Trustee and took on the responsibility of Sponsorship Program Administrator. We now run an educational sponsorship programme for 200 children as well as providing desperately needed equipment for the schools, hospitals and the emergency services. GO GAMBIA continues to expand and has become one of the great passions in my life. I could go on forever about it but it would be easier to log on to our website where our work is explained in detail. Go Gambia website Fate led me to that beach in The Gambia in 1999. I often look back and think how strange it was that a conversation on Banjul beach turned my life upside down when I least expected it. Any Globetrotters members interested in sponsoring a child’s education or who can assist the project in any way can contact us through the GO GAMBIA website. Alternatively, you may contact Rosemary by e-mail on: rahamblin@hotmail.coms

There are many diseases spread by the bite of infected insects. This article focuses on methods of bite avoidance and therefore ways to reduce not only the inconvenience of insect bites but also ways to reduce the chances of contracting any one of the potentially life threatening diseases including malaria that can be contracted this way

Different types of mosquito will bite at different times, for example the mosquito that carries malaria predominantly bites between dusk and dawn whereas the one that carries dengue fever (predominantly present in Asia but also in the Americas an Africa) will bite during the day, so good bite avoidance techniques should be employed whenever biting insects are present.

There are several basic ways to reduce insect bites and these will be considered in turn. They are to:

Ø Reduce general exposure to insects

Ø Apply repellent to the skin

Ø Use insecticides which are impregnated into materials such as clothing or mosquito nets

Ø Remove insects from the environment using contact insecticides, e.g., knock-down sprays or burners/mats

Reducing Exposure

This means reducing the amount of exposed skin that is available for the mosquito to bite, therefore long sleeved shirts, trousers and socks should all be worn. It’s also been found that the mosquitoes find it more difficult to bite through loose as opposed to tight clothing.

Another way to prevent mosquitoes getting to your skin is to ensure that you always sleep in a mosquito net, these should either have a very fine weave to prevent any insect getting through no matter how small it is, or a larger weave that allows air to circulate better but these should be impregnated with an insecticide (see later)

Application of Repellents

There are many different types of repellent on the market but one of the best is still DEET, when applied in concentrations of at least 20% (many contain 40-50%) it is both long lasting and effective. It is safe when applied to the skin but can damage plastics so its always advisable to wipe your hands after application or you may find that when you go to put your sunglasses back on you leave fingerprints on the lenses. It will also sting the eyes and lips and therefore should never be sprayed directly on the face but can be applied lightly using the hands. Citronella oil and especially its derivatives are also very effective but citronella oil on its own doesn’t last very long at all and would need to be reapplied every hour or so.

Whichever repellent you use it is important to reapply regularly, its difficult to say exactly how often but no repellent will last more than about 4 hours or so (unless it is specially formulated into a slow-release application) and factors such as humidity, wind and the amount you sweat will all reduce effective duration but every couple of hours should suffice. Its also important to cover all exposed skin, not forgetting the ears or the back of the neck since mossies will always manage to find that one little patch of forgotten skin and have a feast!

High strength DEET can also be applied to wrist and ankle bands to be worn at high risk times and if these are stored in a little airtight bag they will remain active for days before another application is required.

Use of Insecticides

The type of insecticide now most commonly used is called permethrin, It’s available for application directly to clothing or in a much stronger solution that can be used to soak mosquito nets and give protection for up to 3-6 months. All nets should be treated where possible because if even a single mosquito gets into your net with you it is trapped for the night, with only you to feed on. It can land on a non treated net for a rest and then return to you for a further meal. When sprayed onto clothing it will effectively kill any insect that lands on the treated clothing and thus prevent the mosquito from biting you for up to two weeks. This method of bite avoidance is advisable for those individuals who find themselves particularly susceptible to insect bites or are in areas of particularly high risk of disease transmission. When using these products it is advisable to avoid contact with the skin whilst still wet, but once dry it is totally safe for humans and it is impossible to tell whether clothing has been treated or not. It doesn’t even smell unlike DEET that used to be used to treat clothing and nets

Removal of Insects from the Environment

These are generally ways to kill insects present in rooms etc. Knockdown sprays are very effective and readily available and the best way to use them is often to spray the room before you go out in the evening and let the insecticide do its work whilst you are enjoying yourself. Alternatively if you have an uninterrupted electricity supply, plug in products that release permethrin-type insecticide into the room throughout the night are very effective. They rely on a small heating element that will either vaporise fluid or heat little mats that in turn release the active ingredient into the room, again harmless to humans and virtually odourless. You can also purchase coils that burn releasing the insecticide, these can produce small amounts of smoke and fumes and should therefore not really be used in enclosed environments, they are however very useful when eating outside. A small piece of a coil (one coil lasts about 10 hours) burnt under the table will keep the mossies away from your ankles – one of the most popular areas for biting insects. Air conditioning will also reduce the number of bites you get during the night if you have none of the other options since lower temperatures do not encourage the mosquitoes to feed and the constant flow of air makes it more difficult for them to find you.

Formore information, visit the Nomad Travel website:Nomad Travel or call the Travel Health Line: 0906 8633414 (calls cost 60p per min) to discuss your travel health queries with a medical.

Philippe continues his tale of diving and exploring Curacao with his family.

Harry and his wife, Ann-Marie, have done all in their power to help us achieving the best diving around the island. They have lent us all equipment necessary including tanks to do some shore diving around the island and God knows that, around Curacao, there are several luscious beaches (e.g., “Klein Knipbaai”, “Playa Porto Marie” or “Playa Jeremi”) with astounding coral reef diving, down to quite extreme depths (that is, if you want) and very good facilities…for the after-dive relaxation.

The club boats have also taken us to some very good diving places not far from the hotel. One of these places was called the “Mushroom Forest” and, when diving there, we had the feeling of wandering in the middle of a forest of giant mushrooms, except that they were coral formations under which we could often glimpse lobsters and moray eels.

Easy Divers’ philosophy is based on the following principle: once you have established your credentials, you are free to dive the way you want, under your sole responsibility. This philosophy, in addition to the boat taking you to excellent spots, to the skipper giving you a good pre-dive briefing and to the boat picking you up at the end of your dive wherever you are (i.e. you do not have to navigate back to the boat), was what European divers like us needed to do exciting dives.

The club was also offering all expected facilities and more, like nitrox, a locker to store away your equipment to dry, a bar on the beach nearby, showers for after the dive, all books necessary to identify what we had seen (a special mention about Paul Humann’s and Ned Deloach’s “The Reef Set” books which is probably one of the best books ever made to precisely identify what you are going to see or what you have seen: definitely a must have!) and refreshing fruit salads to pick from while discussing your dives with your buddies, lying on deck chairs.

Furthermore, the diving club was conveniently located on the beach of a resort (the Sunset Waters Beach Resort) which was providing very good accommodation, food and all other amenities to make the rest of the trip enjoyable, including a casino, a swimming pool and a mini-golf. There were even some activities organised for the kids like movies, sea kayak trips or water-polo tournaments so they definitely have also been able to make the best out of their stay there.

Apart from Park Cristoffel which is supposed to offer some very good hiking, Curacao also offered a few interesting things to see on the dry over-the-water side of the island:

· Willemstad (the capital) made for an interesting tour with its Dutch inspired houses, its floating rotating bridge, its floating market (as nothing grows on Curacao, except Aloe Vera which has been cultivated there for a very long time, all fruits and vegetables are imported from the nearby Venezuela);

· A South-African Boer has opened an ostrich farm, which gave us the opportunity to discover the life of ostriches and even to taste them in the form of juicy steaks and sausages;

· The Kura Hollanda Museum about the Black Culture and Holocaust was also a highly interesting moment in the trip as it enabled us to understand more about the history of Black people in the Caribbean islands and in the USA, with, among other things, an outstanding highlight on the slave trade;

· Last, Curacao Seaquarium displayed some very interesting tanks and creatures, taking advantage of the sea close vicinity to display, among other things, nurse and lemon sharks, tarpons, groupers and rays in almost natural environment with a possibility for divers to interact.

All in all, a very pleasant trip to “one of the best kept secrets of the Caribbean islands” which I would definitely recommend to divers travelling with their families.

If you would like to contact Philippe about diving or info on Curacao, his e-mail is: philippe.sigal@bnpparibas.com

When I was a little girl and the trees seemed too big for me I was first taken to Red Square by my farther. It is a wonderful feeling to realize how beautiful and different could be the Country you live in. Being about five years old I was lucky to have captured this sensation and later on it only became deeper.

I remember looking at the glowing Kremlin stars and feeling that I was in the center of the whole world, of the universe. I am a student of Moscow University now and I still have this feeling. When twilight comes the Kremlin stars are the first to be seen, and only then Mars, Venus and the North Star.

I have always adored Red Square (Red in Old Russian meant beautiful). Being the symbol of the Country, a famous sight it is at the same time the place that helps you to remember where are your roots and that you belong here. It is amazing how one place could embody so many ancient monuments and edifices from different epochs: from the 16th up to the 20th centuries.

Faces of Moscow are many and various and your vision of the city depends on the way you look at it.

To the left of Red Square leads off Varvarka Street. If you happen round in it, the close company of the golden domes of ancient Churches, the Old English Court, the Chambers of Romanov boyars of handsome originality will let you feel a merchant of the epoch of Ivan the Terrible, dressed in long red caftan and wearing boots of coloured leather with silver lining at the heels.

And if you shall go a way down you are sure to be enshrouded into a special patriarchal atmosphere, which the stones of this district – Zamoskvorechye (Beyond the River district) – still breathe. In the 16th century this territory was used to grow fruit and vegetables for the Tsar’s table and for a long time it was settled only by poor peasants and craftsmen. This area commands a beautiful view of the Kremlin. The Kremlin… here I recall one story.

Some time ago I worked with Italian tourists and we were exploring the center of the city. After we had seen the Kremlin, which took about a couple of hours, one of them asked me: “Look, we’ve been here nearly all day long, we’ve seen so many churches and gardens and I am dying to see one more famous place. Could you tell me where is on Earth that very Kremlin, please? Where is that building? ”. I could not help laughing. He was asking me to show exactly what he has just seen. I told him so. Kremlin is not just one building, but a huge complex of fortification walls, towers, churches and gardens.

The highest point of the city – Vorobievy Hills (Sparrow Hills) is the sight for the main building of Moscow State University founded in the times of Tsarina Elizaveta. The observation platform situated on the same place commands a splendid view of entire Moscow. On a good day the city is laid out before you like an opened book: the Olympic dome, the home to the Olympic Games 1980s is the first thing that strikes the eye. The seven famous skyscrapers seen from afar give an original look to the city silhouette and emphasise its radial-circular layout.

Your ideas of turning into an aristocrat for a while are likely to take shape in Prechistenka Street. It preserves all of the stages in the city’s history. There are white stone chambers, noblemen’s mansions and luxurious houses for rent created with outstanding taste. So never mind you might notice this dignity look on the faces of your companions – they must have come under the street’s spell.

On a fine summer day through the opened windows there might even seep out the sounds of the grand piano and young ladies’ great babble of conversation about preparing for the ball.

Every street has its own story to tell you. You just have to listen to it and keep your mind open on things. Each of us can find something of interest here.

From my mind a peculiar feature of Moscow is that this city maintaining eminent architectural ensembles of the bygone days manages to mix it with pure European signs of human achievements – prestigious hotels and fashionable restaurants, luxurious clubs and extravagant boutiques, which only adds a special flavour to it.

The title of this text holds certainly true of Moscow. The city is so huge that you may live in it your whole life and still not know it, still learn something new about it every day. But this is the stuff of life – to learn and let yourself be dazzled by the new, isn’t it?

Katia says: “I am studying foreign languages at Moscow University and I'm enjoying it very much as my profession is connected with people – that's why I've been an interpreter, tourist guide. And I love communicating with people from different countries, helping them to learn more about Russia, its history and culture”.

For more information, or to contact Katia, please e-mail her on: engmaria@mtu-net.ru

Most visitors to Cape Town arrive by air and land at Cape Town's International Airport. The International terminal has recently been upgraded and facilities are good. The airport is about a twenty minute drive from the centre of Cape Town along the N2 freeway. For those brave people who like to drive themselves it is easy to hire a car as most car hire firms are represented at the airport.

Anybody who is used to driving on the right is in for a surprise. We don't! The Brits taught us to drive on the left. Please remember this as you could find yourself in trouble on the roads. BEWARE of the taxis. They drive like maniacs, stop anywhere and don't stop at traffic lights. The roads in and around town are good and well sign posted. If you know where you are going you should not get lost. That's easily said, I still get lost sometimes. You know us men, we don't like asking for directions.

Cape Town has three major access roads to get you in and out of town. The N1 which takes you to the north and the suburbs of Parow, Bellville and onto Paarl and the winelands if you keep on going. The N2, takes you along De Waal drive down Settlers way to the airport and Somerset West and if you keep going to Mosselbay via Sir Lowry's Pass. To avoid peak traffic do not drive along these roads from about 4.30 onwards in the afternoons. The third is the main road which takes you south through all the suburbs of Cape Town to Simonstown. Plenty of traffic lights, stop start driving and pedestrians. For shoppers there are some large shopping centres to visit.

Century City (Canal Walk) is the biggest and is found just off the N1 highway about 5 kilometres out of town. Here there are hundreds of shops to browse through. Do yourself a favour and wear your walking shoes when visiting Canal Walk. You will walk for miles and are sure to get sore feet. However, there are many restaurants and coffee shops to visit when you get tired, trust me you WILL! It is enormous with two levels and two shopping malls on each level. A shop-a-holics dream come true! While you are there take a boat ride on the canal and visit the bird hide on the island.

Cape Town itself has plenty to see and do. If you want to avoid driving, take a bus to the waterfront and visit the shops restaurants and pubs there. Many of the larger chain stores you find at Canal walk (Century City) are also represented at the Waterfront. The V & A Waterfront as it is named is part of Table Bay Harbour and is still used as a working harbour. Like boats? Take a cruise. Fancy a trip to Robben Island? They also leave from the harbour.

Cape Town has many places of interest within walking distance of the city centre.

I will list a few below.

· Museum and Planetarium found in the Gardens.

· The Gardens and the Art Gallery.

· Oceanarium in the Waterfront.

· The Castle of the Cape of Good Hope found close to the railway

station.

· Green Market Square with its permanent flea market.

· St Georges Cathedral.

Cape Town is relatively safe with most areas being monitored by surveillance cameras. There are however, those who will try their luck, so please keep all jewellery and valuables hidden under your clothing. It is not safe to walk around by yourself at night. It's Ok at the Waterfront, but not anywhere else. If you are driving keep your doors locked at all times and do not leave valuables where they can be seen, even when you are in the car.

The South African currency is Rand and cents. A British pound is the equivalent of about R16.00 and a US dollar about R10.50. If you are visiting Cape Town in summer, bring lots of beachwear and a hat. The sun is very dangerous. On the beaches use plenty of sunblock to prevent bad sunburn. Be careful of the rip tides on some of the beaches if you decide to have a swim.

Enjoy your trip. See you soon!

Geoff Fairman is the editor and publisher of Banker's Oldboy's Ezine, a free publication posted via email to your home computer weekly. To read more articles on Cape Town visit:

Brerrabbit-subscribe@topica.com

Darrell from Washington, DC, wrote in: “someone who visited both Prague and Bratislava before Czechoslovakia split should get credit for two countries. Likewise, chalk up two countries if someone visited East and West Germany separately before 1990”.

Del from Texas says: “Easy, it counts if the part that split was visited”.

Henry from Hawaii says: No, one could count two countries if both Prague and Bratislava were visited before the split. It is the territory that counts since it is pretty much the same regardless of who owns it at any given time. A purist would argue that it would require visitation when the current state was in operation and one could agree with that view in order to keep the counting as standard as possible.

Nick from London wrote in to say: I liked the What Counts as having visited a Country? section in the newsletter this month. Years ago I visited a couple of bits of Yugoslavia, and I would note that as several countries now.

Our webmaster Paul sent in a link of the official ISO country list, for worldly travellers to tick ‘em off! Take a look at http://www.iso.ch/iso/en/prods-services/iso3166ma/02iso-3166-code-lists/index.html

This month’s question, from Nick from London is: I would be interested if people think it counts if you have visited a country for a stopover.

Greetings one and all. This message is coming to you from Lusaka, the nerve centre of quiet, peaceful and more or less desolate Zambia, a Southern African country just north of Zimbabwe. We landed in Zambia somewhat by accident. You see, it all started at the Zimbabwean border not so long ago.

As we left South Africa with our hearts warmed by the hospitality of its people, particularly the Bekkers and Viersters (noted in prior emails), and entered Zim a little wary due to the much-publicized conflict arising out of its recent elections, we were greeted by a friendly Zimbabwean border official who asked whether we desired a single or multiple-entry visa. We weighed the pro's and con's: Sali, the nest-builder that she is, decided it best that we pass through Zim as quickly as possible, lest we lost our opportunity to build our future nest in a post-election squabble; I, the budget-minded one, found it morally reprehensible that we might waste funds on the more expensive multiple-entry option when we had no intention of returning to Zimbabwe. So, for differing reasons, we found common ground and unanimously opted for a single-entry visa. The border official dutifully completed the paperwork in triplicate and, upon completion, asked our plans in Zimbabwe.

We came for two reasons, we told him: to see Victoria Falls, one of the seven natural wonders of the world, and to relax on Lake Kariba, considered a gem of Southern Africa. With great pleasure, our friend pulled out a map of Zimbabwe and outlined possible routes. Only then did we realize that the easiest way to go from Vic Falls to Lake Kariba is to transit through little-known Zambia. In response to this geography lesson, we decided it best to purchase the multiple-entry visa and go along the suggested itinerary. Oh, so sorry, we were told, but he had already completed the paperwork for our single-entry document. Oh well, live and learn, we figured, and we left for Victoria Falls not entirely sure of our future plans.

Vic Falls is all it was cracked up to be: a roaring waterfall of immense power that kicks up mist which engulfs the verdant foliage and all nearby tourists; high above the spray, a rainbow arches atop the chasm that forms the Falls. Noting that the surrounding greenery enjoys sunshine and water in abundance, Sali confided that if she were a plant, Vic Falls is where she would like to live.

During our stay at the Falls we learned that Lake Kariba, bounded not only by Zimbabwe but Zambia as well, is equally beautiful on the Zambian side–though not nearly as prepared for tourism. Bidding goodbye to our newfound friend–the country of Zimbabwe–we sought the cool blue waters of Lake Kariba from the Zambian coast.

As for Zimbabwe and the oft-discussed strife, we found tension in the air but nothing more. Upon discussion with whites and blacks, we found distrust of the government and concern for the future by many. But we also found great pride among its peoples and appreciation for the beauty of the land by all of its inhabitants. While South Africans may decry the happenings in Zimbabwe, Zimbabweans will quickly point out that the number of violent attacks on Zimbabwean farmers at the peak of violent times is surpassed tenfold by the number of attacks on city goers in Johannesburg at any time of the year.

There is famine in Zimbabwe, or so we had heard, so we stocked up on dry goods before we entered the country, only to be greeted by well-stocked markets at the major stopping points. There is a shortage of petrol in Zimbabwe, we were told, so we entered the country with three full jerry cans. Admittedly, the petrol was of pure quality, causing our car to spit and sputter uphill, but petrol was abundant and cost us half what it cost in South Africa. Indeed, we did not use our stock of petrol until we entered serene, under-developed Zambia, where fuel costs three times what it costs in Zim.

In sum, our tour of Zimbabwe shot bullets through the misperceptions we had heard about the country, leaving holes in the blanket of fears we clung to upon arrival. Of course, that is not to say that the trouble is over in Zimbabwe (or anywhere in Africa, for that matter). As reverberations of empowerment spread through this continent, Zimbabwe and the rest of Africa will surely experience strife as each country settles into the foundations of its nationhood.

Okay, I'll get off my soapbox and move on to telling you about Zambia. After a few days on Lake Kariba, where I honed my fire-building techniques, Sali washed the dickens out of our clothes and we both improved our butterfly stroke at the camp's swimming pool, we set out for a campsite along the mighty Zambezi (Africa's fourth largest river behind the Nile, the Congo, and the River Niger). Driving as far as we could go on public land, we found the perfect spot, where the Zambezi meets the Chongwe River and wildlife abounds from both sides.

Entering this idyllic retreat, I half-expected to see a distinguished-looking man in a white three-piece suit and his half-pint sidekick welcome us to Fantasy Island. Instead, Ann and Bruce, a couple of expats from South Africa living their dreams in the untamed bush of Zambia as managers of the Chongwe River Lodge, directed us to our campsite along the water. Outfitted with a private ablution block (i.e., open-air toilet and shower, each fenced in with thatched walls) and a campsite on the bank of the river, our temporary home could best be described as designed for rustic comfort. The plumbing in the toilet worked great and the shower was prepared upon our request by a worker who carted, via the use of a wheelbarrow, tubs of hot water which he then poured into a 60-litre drum hoisted overhead through the use of a pulley system.

Nocturnal sounds at the campsite included chirping birds, grunting hippos, screeching baboons and an occasional fish breaking the water's surface to feed. Shining a flashlight across the placid river, one can see brawny hippos powering through the water and the creepy, glowing red eyes of crocodiles. In daylight, elephants traipse through the camp, tugging at trees and ingesting all the shrubbery they can stuff into their hungry mouths. Fiercely herbivorous, elephants eat about 200 kilograms per day (almost 450 pounds) of leaves, branches and roots. In the hot sun, hippos remain submerged in the water up to their eyeballs for most of the day, bobbing up for a periodic breath, and bounce on and off the land sometime after nightfall.

As for our interactions with the elephants, they were nothing short of spectacular. Literally, they walked among us. Sali and I were drinking our morning coffee one day when one slurped from the river not ten feet from us. The only danger with these generally gentle beasts is if you enter their comfort zone (probably about 35 feet in radius) without permission. After a while, it becomes not too hard to read the animal, so it is unlikely to be confused by its inclinations. However, I did mistake a never-seen-before elephant with the one that Sali and I had met over coffee. That exchange turned out to be a frightful one for yours truly, for when the elephant found me, a stranger, entering his space without proper invitation, he quickly turned from mild-mannered leaf eater to severely agitated wild beast.

Looking like he was going to stomp me like a grape, this 2-ton wild animal charged. Maybe it was because of my kindly demeanour, maybe it was because of my devilish charm, or maybe it was because I ran like hell. Whatever the reason, the big guy decided I wasn't worth it and stopped after a long moment, and I quickly made my way to the loo.

Oh, I nearly forget about Silkie, the domesticated Antelope that Bruce and Ann have taken under their wing ever since its mother discarded it at birth due to a cleft hoof. In the bush, any deformity is viewed as too costly to the rest of the group, and the animal is left to fend for itself. But thanks to Ann and Bruce and modern medicine, a vet repaired Silkie’s hoof. However, having become habituated to humans, she likes our company and sticks to the campsite. Silkie was kind enough to chaperone us on all of our nature walks.

Tourism is growing rapidly in Zambia and everyone has their finger on the pulse of dollars coursing through the veins of the tourist trade. On our second day, the local chieftainess (yes, a woman–duly elected by her tribes people), made an impromptu visit on the lodge to spy on its developments. We don't know the business arrangement exactly, but we do know that she leased the land for 99 years and keeps a watch on it now and then. When the chieftainess arrives, everyone jumps to attention, bowing and scraping as much as possible.

After several days walking along the Zambezi, talking to the elephants and searching for hippos breaking the surface of the water, we bid farewell to Ann and Bruce–a more amiable couple you will be hard to find–and headed for the somewhat bustling capital of Zambia, Lusaka, which is where we are now.

Michael and his wife have been driving through Africa since March 2002.