Its been, I believe, more than two months since I last sent an email of substance about our trip. My eyes have been filled with so many sights and my head filled with so many thoughts that my pen hand has been frozen, like a boy who has taken too big a bite of an apple, whose jaw is stuck clenched around it.

Whereas the first few months of our trip can be described as nomadic and arduous, the last several weeks have been marked by the slowness of time and seeming randomness of events. However undirected our travels initially appeared, they were, in fact, pretty direct. We travelled northwards through South Africa, straight into and through Zimbabwe, meandered around Zambia and then entered Malawi. Look on a map and you'll see that it's pretty straightforward. But everything changed once we hit Malawi. We were tired. No, let me rephrase that. We were haggard. Months of spartan, itinerant living had taken its toll. We reached beyond the breaking point days before when we got stuck driving across a river purportedly infested by crocs and hippos. Forced to set up camp, we spent that night alone in the bush among the animals of the wild.

Fortunately, we were towed out the next day. We are not, and never will be, the same. Thus, we looked upon passive little Malawi, known alternately as the “Warm Heart of Africa” and “Africa Light”, as the cure to our ills. We welcomed with pleasure the conveniences of Blantyre, Malawi's largest commercial city, and the soothing atmosphere of Doogles, Southern Africa's hippest backpacker lodge and Blantyre's coolest pub. Like Cheers, everyone knows your name and they're always glad you came. With tracks of David Gray (our new favourite crooner) playing in the background and good food served all day, our frayed nerves slowly eased.

The list of characters flowing in and out of Doogles runs long: there was a merry band of travellers calling themselves “Hot Rocks” in the midst of a 3-year expedition circumambulating the globe in a enhanced Mad Max-style truck from England (check out their site at ; there was a British couple riding their BMW motorcycle (the ride was so smooth, claimed the husband, that his wife could read when sitting behind him) around the world, financed by rental payments received for the use of their home; there was the lycra-clad professional journeyman on a continuing mission to circle the earth by motorbike who likened himself to James Bond, carried little other than albums containing clippings from travel magazines depicting his life's work, and never tired of describing his latest blaze through the pre-truce Congo (days after I last saw him, I caught the tail end of a Travel Channel episode telling his tales); there was the lanky used car salesman born and raised in Blantyre who showed up every night for beers and conversation; there was the British med student who came alone but quickly found company; there was the reunion with Maria and Oliver, a German couple with whom we formed a quick and comfortable friendship days earlier in Zambia – they beat us in Pictionary 🙁 – there was a British jack-of-all-trades who rolled in to Doogles with three 18-wheelers and stacks of used tires, all shipped over from England and ready for sale to any interested buyer; there were Swiss travellers, Dutch, Irish and Israeli, French travellers, Aussie, American and Kiwi, just to name a few, checking in and out, dining by the pool and quaffing beers in the moonlight; and, of course, there were Souli and Servanne, two of my favourite travellers and half of our meandering quartet.

Travelling is as much a skill as it is an art and Servanne ranks among the best travellers I've encountered. Always upbeat, forever a team player, she has an unquenchable thirst for the sights and sounds penetrating the world. A Frenchwoman, she also speaks English, a smattering of German, Spanish, and numerous esoteric languages that she has picked up from travelling in, out, through and around the world's most unique places. At about 5'1″ and 103 pounds (just a guess), she may be, pound for pound, the world's strongest traveller, and, I can assure you, the most energetic.

Souli, short for Souliman, is a Lebanese-born German dentist who is the oldest of ten children. When we met him, he was stuck in Blantyre waiting for a parcel containing a headlamp to make it through Malawi's lethargic postal system. This guy was finishing up a nearly 14-month bicycle journey from Germany to South Africa (check out his website at www.radflimmern.de). Why, with less than two months left on his trip, did he suddenly need the headlamp? I never could understand it–something about needing it while he rode through the bush in Botswana–but it kept him hanging around, so that was good enough for me.

For me, Souli was a breath of fresh air. As a German, he proudly rooted for the plucky U.S. soccer team when the two countries faced each other in the World Cup. Germany advanced, so he cheered wildly for the heavily outmatched South Koreans in the semi-finals. Why root against his countrymen? Those soccer stars were too cocky, he told me. Souli's soft-spoken affability combined with a limited attention span for all things outside the domain of his interest left me continuously in stitches. To dismiss someone as a nuisance while making him feel good about it is a skill the guy has mastered. I don't mean to sound callous, but in Africa locals approach foreigners for various reasons. These encounters are precious to all travellers, but they also tend to be draining. Souli had a knack for pleasantly nipping those unpleasurable encounters in the bud. Perhaps most of all, I was fascinated by his physically challenging and mentally gruelling trip that brought him, ever so slowly, out of Europe, through the Middle East and across Africa. Along the way, he re-established family ties in the country of his birthplace, found spiritual rejuvenation in the kindness of strangers and dealt with uncommon frustrations like flat tires in the Sudanese desert and rocks thrown by children in certain locales.

The four of us–Servanne, Sali, Souli and I–made a good team. Sali and Servanne enjoyed conversing in French, pondering things European and talking of literature. Souli and I shared an interest in poorly played Chess and laughter at life's trifling events. After a few days together at Doogles, we set out on a camping trip in Malawi's Shire Valley. Uninterested at the time in anything touristy, we pitched our tents in a dry riverbed on the outskirts of a simple village. We spent three days cooking, sunning, laughing and interacting with locals in what were very ordinary conditions–lots of sun, no electricity, a borehole providing freshwater one kilometre away, villagers with small plots of land that produced a variety of vegetables, a population rapidly diminishing in numbers due to the onset of AIDS.

After the camping trip, we headed back to Doogles. Eventually, Servanne hopped on a bus to Mozambique, Souli cycled off to Zimbabwe and Sali and I set out for a hike through Malawi's Mulanje Mountains. We anticipated a 4-5 day trip where we would move from lodge to lodge each day, but the daily hikes were long and tiring and we were poorly prepared, not bringing enough food and failing to hire a porter to assist in the portage of food and supplies. After two days, we found ourselves in a gorgeous spot and too tired to enjoy it. That's when we met James and Hannah, lovebirds soon to be wed, who kindly left us some of their food as they headed down the mountain and invited us to stay with them once we returned. We decided to spend the next three nights in the same mountain hut, enjoying its tranquillity and scenic beauty, and then took a more direct route back to James' and Hannah's three days later.

The next couple of weeks are a blur. All I can remember is breakfasts on their veranda, long stretches of time spent reading, midday naps, fantastic meals, thoughtful conversations with our hosts, evening laughter and a rekindled relationship with television. James and Hannah opened their home to us and we just couldn't get enough. In fact, it soon dawned on us that the expatriate lifestyle (he's from the U.K., she's from British Columbia) in Malawi was not half-bad. As fate would have it, the stunning home next to them had just become vacant. With four bedrooms, two solariums, a swimming pool, stables and beautifully landscaped grounds, this house was nestled in the foothills of mountains, bounded by a nature preserve on one side and James and Hannah on the other.

What could we do in Malawi, we wondered. We floated our resumes around town, meeting several respected lawyers including the head of Malawi's bar association, leaders of their nascent stock market, foreign consultants and bankers, the police department's chief of criminal affairs (it's a long story) and the dean of one of the country's two law schools. After rubbing shoulders with these bigwigs, we became stuck on the idea of teaching at the law school. Encouraged by the dean to seek outside funding–he expressed interest in our services but lacked the funding to pay for them—we met with several development agencies funded by the British and U.S. governments in pursuit of a backer. We wrote letters, shook hands, issued pitches and submitted proposals. Sadly, the well of funds was dry. The mighty New Yorkers had struck out.

During our tireless fundraising campaign, we sought refuge in the crystal clear waters of Lake Malawi on two occasions. Here, the beauty and challenges of African life struck me more clearly than anywhere else on our trip. Warmed by the majesty of the lake's undeveloped serenity and the unbridled decency of its surrounding community, I nonetheless felt weighted down by the pressures of village existence–unceasing poverty in the face of an outpouring of tourist wealth; in the wake of the AIDS pandemic, too few elders caring for too many children; the youthful desire for fun in the sun against the practical need to earn and save; the inescapable fact that villagers rarely leave the at once inviting and confining land on which their parents', their parents' parents and their parents before them were conceived and reared, on which they founded their families and on which they expired.

Smarting from the burn of rejection, our hearts began to wander back home. Liz, Sali's blue-blooded high school friend, was engaged to wed Niels, a German gentleman living in D.C., at the end of August in Virginia. Jean, my former French neighbour in New York, was engaged to wed Caireen, a feisty Australian, in the middle of September in the French Riviera. We checked our budget, realized we couldn't afford trips to these far-off places, and then decided to go anyway. We bought round-trip tickets to the States with stopovers in London and connecting puddle-jumper flights to Nice, and we were off.

We spent practically every moment of our time back home soaking up the love and attention of our respective families, catching up on everyone's life, telling stories of our own, and fattening up on tasty home cookin'. In a certain twist of fate, Liz and Niels were married in a country French chateau nestled in a small Virginia town among their closest friends and family, while Jean and Caireen paired themselves amidst the glitz and glamour suitable to Hollywood's elite. While guests at the Brinton-Kusserow merger engaged in thoughtful, intimate conversations with the bride and groom and dined among a choice group of guests, attendees at the Bourlot-Shanahan extravaganza rocked the night away under the stars of Beaulieu Sur Mer.

And that, my dear friends and family, is nearly all there is to tell. There was our 3-night escapade through Mozambique and our continuing education on David Livingstone, the Scottish missionary who introduced much of Southern Africa to the European world while campaigning against slavery with every step (see www.nationalgeographic.com/features/97/lantern/), there is the sociologist/filmmaker who is tending to our car while putting the finishing touches on his documentary of Malawian street children, there was a week secluded in the Italian Alps following the French wedding (and the 4-train, 10-hour trip it took to get there), our inability to meet up with our Slovenian friends in Venice, the long journey by rail to meet Liz and Niels in Koblenz (Niels whisked his beautiful bride back to his motherland after the wedding), our recent lesson on German beer and sausages and our grand opportunity to sample Niels' famed plum cake (deeeelicous), but there isn't time for all that. In a few days we will have a reunion with Maria and Oliver and in a few weeks we'll be back in Africa steadily collecting stories for the next briefing. Until then, be well.

Wed in September 2001, Sali and Michael left their jobs as New York lawyers six months later and flew to Cape Town to begin a one-year travelling expedition. Without much of an itinerary, they bought a car in Cape Town and have been slowly working their way north through Africa, spending time in South Africa, Zimbabwe, Zambia, Malawi, Mozambique and, currently, Tanzania. Always eager to swap travel tips, Sali and Michael would be pleased to hear from any travel enthusiasts and can be reached via email at mrakower@hotmail.com.

Greetings fellow Globetrotters The next Globetrotters' meeting and a “pre-Christmas pot-luck” took place at 7.45 pm to 10 pm on November 15, 2002. Robin Christmas, Linda Rosenbaum & Family talked about “The Ve-Ahavta” (“You Shall Love”) a video of a community development project in Bartica, Guyana. For information on Ontario meetings, please contact: Svatka Hermanek shermanek@schulich.yorku.ca or Bruce Weber: tel. 416-203-0911 or Paul Webb: tel. 416-694-8259.

Meetings are held on the third Friday of January, March, May, September and November. Usually at the Woodsworth Co-op, Penthouse, 133, Wilton Street (south-east from St. Lawrence Market in Toronto, South of Esplanade, 2nd very short block east from Jarvis) in downtown Toronto at 8.00 p.m.

Everyone has heard of Dracula. Dublin born Bram Stoker (1847-1912) created Count Dracula as a figure of fear and revulsion in his novel “Dracula” published in 1897. Since then, we’ve had countless Dracula versions through film, novels, TV series and even comic books. We all know that Dracula comes from Transylvania, in Romania but is there any truth in these myths? Did he really exist?

Popular opinion says that Dracula is based on an exaggerated account of a man called Vlad Tepes, the prince of the Wallachia (found in the southern part of today's Romania). Vlad Tepes was considered at the time to be a fair but very cruel man.

Let’s call him Vlad – Emperor Sigismund of Luxembourg granted him rulership of Wallachia in 1431. The emperor gave Vlad a necklace and a golden medallion with a dragon engraved on it. Vlad set up a mint where he used the dragon emblem.

The name Dracula is actually a nickname and is derived from the Romanian language that in turn comes from Latin – Drac means Devil. Vlad’s father was called this, and the name stuck, and so Vlad became known as Vlad Dracula. He was not a friend of the Ottoman Empire and started organising the state, the army, the law, applying the death penalty by impaling against all those he considered enemies: highwaymen, robbers, beggars, cunning priests, treacherous noblemen, usurper Saxons (who tried to replace him either with cousin Dan cel Tanar (Dan the Young) or by his natural brother Vlad Calugarul (Vlad the Monk)).

Vlad died in 1476 in a battle at Snagov, killed by Laiota Basarab who succeeded him to the throne of Wallachia. To experience some places in Dracula’s life, you can visit:

• The Birgau Mountains to see Dracula's Castle
• Bistrita at the Golden Crown Hotel to remember Stoker's famous character
• Sighisoara to see the mediaeval fortress and the house of Dracula's Childhood (the tourist may have dinner at his house, not far from there is gallows he put up to punish his enemies)
• Bran Castle (Vlad Dracula's halting place), dating from the 14th century and the ruins of the fortress Poienari rebuilt by Vald Dracula

• Poienari Fortress Ruin, a fortress rebuilt by Vlad Dracula

Globetrotters Meeting Texas Branch – 9 November 2002 by Emily

We had two groups of speakers at our meeting, both on Spain. The first group was Chris and Julie who displayed some fabulous slides of different areas of Spain: Toledo, Madrid, Balboa and San Sebastian.

Our next group of speakers on Spain was Christina and Susan. They spoke mostly about their recent experience at a language school. This school, based in a restored village, is specifically for Spanish professionals to practice their conversational English. They also spoke about their sightseeing adventures in Madrid after they finished a ten day course helping the Spaniards with their spoken English.

Next, each member and visitor spoke about recent trips and future hopes for trips. Upon closing, a suggestion was made to bring ethnic holiday foods to the December meeting, although this is contingent on the approval of the library where our meetings are held.

The next Texas meeting will be held on Saturday 8^th December.

A reminder that Texas meetings will start one hour earlier, at 2pm and not 3pm.

Meetings are held at 2pm at the New Braunfels Public Library, 700 E. Common Street in New Braunfels, Texas. The meeting ends at 5 p.m. If you would like to continue travel talk on a more informal basis, we plan to adjourn to the Hoity-Toit, a local New Braunfels establishment. If anybody would like to enquire about meetings or help Christina, please contact her on: texas@globetrotters.co.uk

Rank

Airport

Total Passengers

% Change

1

ATLANTA, GA (ATL)

75,849,375

-5.4

2

CHICAGO, IL (ORD)

66,805,339

-6.9

3

LOS ANGELES, CA (LAX)

61,024,541

-8.3

4

LONDON, GB (LHR)

60,743,154

-6

5

TOKYO, JP (HND)

58,692,688

4.1

6

DALLAS/FT WORTH AIRPORT, TX (DFW)

55,150,689

-9.2

7

FRANKFURT, DE (FRA)

48,559,980

-1.6

8

PARIS, FR (CDG)

47,996,223

-.5

9

AMSTERDAM, NL (AMS)

39,538,483

-.2

10

DENVER, CO (DEN)

36,086,751

-6.9

Hartsfield, Atlanta

Hartsfield Atlanta Airport is situated on the site of an abandoned racetrack owned by a Coca-Cola magnate. The City Council took a 5 year lease on 287 acres of land in 1925, rent free, if you can believe it, with the option to buy the land for $100,000. They exercised the option in 1930 and the rest as they say, is history. The airport is named after William Berry Hartsfield, the city alderman who found the site and pushed for the airfield. Hartsfield went on to head the city's new aviation committee and served as Mayor of Atlanta from 1938 to 1961, the year the airport terminal was built.

Information supplied by Airports Council International, the organization that represents most of the world's airports. http://www.airports.org/

Scuba diving is the fastest growing sport in the world, each year the number of certified divers doubles. Travel to another world is not just a slogan that many dive centres use to attract the client, it’s true….. to dive is like a dream. Floating underwater is like meditation, yoga or living solitude on a lonely island. You hear nothing, only the bubbles, you feel complete freedom when you are scuba diving. The fish could be your enemy, but in the Greek waters there are only friendly species. Diving in Greece is very popular, the locals like doing it and being a favourite holiday destination……… let’s not forget the tourist. Since the government released some strict rules, particularly about the archaeological places, scuba diving is growing rapidly and in almost every tourist place you can find a diving centre.

On the southernmost point of Europe near the village Plakias on the island of Crete you will find several diving centres. There’s one that opens all year.

Plakias lies opposite the legendary island of Gavdos, where Odysseus spent seven years with the goddess Kalypso. Gavdos is the most southern island of Europe, but there’s no diving centre, only a shepherd with some sheep and goats.

During the wintertime Plakias is a lively little fishermen’s resort. Here you’ll find supermarkets, rooms for rent, restaurants, bars, a doctor, a pharmacy, a post office and a cash machine.

The medieval Town of Rethymno on the north coast is only 45 minutes by car.

Crete in the winter offers a subtropical climate with average day temperatures seldom lower than 16^o C and on a good day above 20^o C. The island has an average of 300 days with sunshine per year. January and February is the rainy season (good for the farmers) but the tropical showers seldom destroy your whole day. God is taking an hour of your time and you can enjoy the sunny hours afterwards.

Being the cradle of Europe there are many historical places that you can visit. There’s Knossos, the archaeological Museum, and there’s the green countryside with botanical beauties that you’ll find only on Crete.

The friendly Cretans are working in the olive groves or picking the oranges, so Crete is alive during the winter and there are not so many tourists. The locals have time for you and if you like it “siga siga” (no stress) than you should visit Crete in the winter.

The island offers all sorts of activities, like guided walking tours, biking tours, you can rent a car for your trips and let’s not forget the diving excursions.

A good contact point is a local adventure club named Kalypso Rocks Palace.

Let’s stick to the diving where we started this article.

There are dives from the shore or boat starting from an old natural (pirate) harbour that is situated near Hotel Kalypso Cretian Village. The diving scenery here is perfect and the visibility underwater is 20-25 metres, making the Libyan Sea the clearest ocean of Europe.

You’ll see plenty of fish: Groupers, Octopus, Shrimps, Sea Stars, Sea brass, Sponges, Morenos, Corals, etc. Look for them in the numerous small canyons, caves or along the mountain walls. Crete is not comparable with top diving destinations, but by European standards it’s a very good location.

Your gear can be provided and on request accommodation in the hotel or in a pension in Plakias for a reasonable price.

If you are interested tin diving or comming to Crete to look around, please contact the Kalypso Adventure Club www.kalypsodivingcenter.com or email: info@kalypsodivingcenter.com

Update: Kalypso diving centre tell us that any readers of this e-newsletter are eligible for a discount of 10% on diving.

Here in the UK, we’ve just had our traditional bonfire night, on November 5^th, to celebrate the foiling of the Gunpowder Plot. We’ve been doing this off and on, barring wars, since 1605. Each year either on November 5, or the weekend closest, people get together all over the UK to light bonfires, burn effigies of “guys”, and set off fireworks. Increasingly, people go to public organised bonfires, rather than have one in their back garden, as the public display fireworks are far more spectacular than anything one could put on at home. We are talking amazing pyrotechnic displays!

But what is it all about? The Gunpowder Plot was an attempt to kill the anti-Catholic King James I, King of England. The alleged perpetrators were a group of four Catholic aristocrats and Guy Fawkes who was a soldier. Their plan was to lay barrels of gunpowder in the cellars of the Parliament Buildings to be ignited the following day, on 5^th November when King James, his eldest son, Prince Henry, and Queen Ann were to attend the opening of Parliament. The aim of the conspirators was, once the king and his family had been assassinated, to propose someone else who was more sympathetic to the Catholics in the UK.

So how did they set about this? The first attempt at tunnelling into the cellars of the Parliament from nearby lodgings failed as water from the River Thames waterlogged the tunnel. Instead, one of the gang used his influence to gain access to cellars beneath Parliament, and somehow, they managed to smuggle in 36 barrels of gunpowder. However, there were problems: the King kept postponing the opening of Parliament, so he was never around to blow up, and secondly, because of the time delay, the gunpowder was going mouldy, and more had to be bought from overseas, to ensure that it would explode.

So what happened next? Just before the big day, someone sent a letter to Lord Monteagle a former Catholic sympathiser, warning him to stay away from the opening of Parliament on November 5^th. Lord M immediately passed the letter to Robert Cecil, the King’s Chief Secretary, and even though the gang of five knew about the letter's existence , and that they had possibly been rumbled, they still went ahead with their plans. Guy Fawkes, a soldier, was volunteered to stay overnight in the cellar with the gunpowder and set light to it at the right moment. On the night of 4^th November, after a thorough search of Parliament, Guy Fawkes was found hidden, along with the gunpowder in the cellars. He was tortured and the other members of the gang were found and along with Guy Fawkes were tried and sentenced to death in St. Paul's churchyard in January 1606. Later, four of the conspirators were executed at the Old Palace Yard, Westminster. All eight men eventually identified as being part of the plot were hung, drawn, and quartered, the standard punishment for those convicted of treason.

People coming here from the UK and elsewhere expect South Africa to be just like the UK. It is just not so. With the advent of the new ANC government things have changed a lot. Everybody can go anywhere they want to. Crime was restricted to certain areas in the past but not so anymore.

The major problems such as bombings, etc., have stopped now and are hopefully gone for good. People here don't have any major gripes in that they need to kill people anymore. There is still a lot of petty crime (as in all large towns and cities) but in the city centre (it's the same here in London – Beetle) all streets are monitored by cameras so this acts as a deterrent.

It is safe here although, like in any big city, from time to time there are incidents, such as muggings and opportunistic theft. As I said in my first article, do not set yourself up as a tourist, rather try and blend in. The following rules are applicable when visiting any large city, whether it is Cape Town, London, New York or Bangkok:

• Carrying large camera cases and having lots of jewellery showing is a recipe for trouble
• Do not walk about on your own in lonely places and if you do watch what is going on around you.
• It's better if there are two or more people together
• Lonely roads and alleyways are problems everywhere.
• Be aware of where you are or where you intend to go: certain areas are more dangerous than others, and one should do one’s homework before venturing out to these places.
• Going to places such as the townships by yourself is a no no. Have a tour company take you in and show you around.

There is a wide range of good accommodation in Cape Town from 5 star to bed and breakfasts, and as far as I know service is good all round. Speaking specifically of Cape Town, service is excellent, the food is first class and you certainly will experience value for money here; there is much to come to South Africa for.

Geoff Fairman is the editor and publisher of Banker's Oldboy's Ezine, a free publication posted via email to your home computer weekly. To read more articles on Cape Town visit:

Brerrabbit-subscribe@topica.com

A reader asked about places to stay in Cape Town. Cape Town is my favourite SA city and Durban second. I travelled in SA many years ago but here are some suggestions.

The SA government tourist bureau had reasonable trips to the game parks. Go to your city library and check out all the budget books on SA get city maps from SA tourist bureau in your country. Find the location of places that interest you on map and write right on map the address, price, etc. I loved SA and think you will too. Do not be afraid of it.

The Jo’burg City Tourist Information Centre was wonderful. They gave me a map and marked on it the location of places to stay in my price range, how to get there by public transportation and I believe even phoned. I think I had taken some used postal stamps along and asked if anyone there collected stamps and gave them to them. While I stayed at the YMCA conveniently located next to Botanical Garden and I think took both sexes and also included breakfast there were many reasonable place to stay and with the good rate of exchange one can go more upscale if they wish. Also when I left SA I asked at the Tourist Bureau if they had any posters with animals I could have. I still have some hanging in my room.

Johannesburg and maybe even Cape Town had free bus tourist trips on Sunday I think sponsored by Chamber of Commerce each Sunday a different one. I brought elephant hair bracelets to bring back to States as gifts. They take hair from an elephants tail (a rather dangerous job) and make a bracelet. If you wear this you will never be attacked by tigers (not in South Africa – but maybe where there are tigers!) and they don’t weigh much in luggage. Some make these bracelets out of plastic and pass off as elephant hair. If you light a match to them I think the plastic will burn.

I took a reasonable several day sightseeing trip of Kruger Game Park (bigger than some states like Connecticut) that I booked in railroad station at SA tourist bureau there. If any globetrotters have had any military time I usually ask tourist bureaux the location of any military clubs. They are good sources of information, reasonable food and drinks and sometimes you being a visitor members will invite you to their homes of tell you of reasonable accommodations. As I mentioned in SA it was MOTH clubs (military order of tin hats from WWI), Comrade Clubs (British oriented), in Australia Returned Servicemen’s Clubs (all military veterans clubs have some people that were never in military!).

The Carlton Center (tall round skyscraper commercial building in Johannesburg had Soweto town sightseeing trips conducted by a tribesman in a pink bus. Money went to town of Soweto to help them out: reasonable and certainly unusual. In a nutshell go to the State run Tourist Bureaus or government tourist bureau in airport, find out public transportation into town. Have them mark on map location of their suggestions.

Happy Travelling TSgt Wilfred L. McCarty Rtd

If you would like to contact Mac, a 78 year old retired military, and extremely well travelled to boot, he is happy to answer any questions even if his information may be out of date. Mac can be e-mailed at macsan400@yahoo.com

The Miss World competition is still to go ahead on 7 December. Although 5 delegates have withdrawn: Miss Costa Rica, Denmark, Switzerland, South Africa and Panama there are still over 100 delegates to “compete”. The Nigerian Government, desperate to play down the controversy surrounding Amina Lawal's sentence, (having a baby out of wedlock (no penalty imposed on the father)) has given assurances that it would intervene to save her once the legal process has been exhausted.

Amina Lawal, meanwhile, is said to have asked participants not to boycott the Miss World contest because “a lot of resources had gone into organising the pageant and it should go ahead”. She reportedly told press: “I heard of the boycott threat, but I just think they should come because nothing happens without God's permission”. She also added that she has not been pressurised into speaking against the boycott.

Muslim groups are annoyed that part of the pageant is being held during the holy month of Ramadan. An official of one Muslim group in the city of Gusau said protesters were planning “black prayers” and a “spread of plagues of curses and bad luck on the Miss World organisers and participants”. (Perhaps they could organise some positive prayers and good thoughts for Amina Lawal.)

ThisDay, a Lagos based Nigerian newspaper recently published an article which said that the Prophet Mohammed would probably have chosen to marry one of the contestants if he had witnessed the beauty pageant, which Nigeria is hosting next month. This sparked off riots by thousands of Muslim youths who have rampaged through the suburbs of Kaduna, burning tyres, attacking churches and setting fire to buildings. Schools and businesses are closed, but meanwhile, Miss World soldiers on.

Update: after four days of violence, relief and civil rights workers say that more than 200 people are now known to have died in violence between Christians and Muslims in the northern Nigerian city of Kaduna. As the disturbances reached Nigeria’s capital, Abuja (and how many of you thought that Lagos was the capital of Nigeria) the venue for the Miss World competition has now been changed to London. It is estimated that more than 1,000 have been injured and more than 11,000 made homeless in the clashes. Civil rights activists said more than 20 churches and 8 mosques have been burned down in the city as well as a number of hotels.

The competition is scheduled to go ahead on 7 December, but in London.

President Obasanjo needs Muslim support when he goes to the polls in a couple of months’ time and does not want to jeopardise his chances of being re-elected. Where does this leave Amina Lawal? A vocal supporter of a contest that shows women in states of undress? Until Miss World has come and gone? And then what? How can this be allowed to happen in the 21^st century?

One of the most enjoyable reasons for travelling to exotic and distant places is to sample the delights of the local cuisine. Two of my favourites have been ‘Rat on a Stick’ and ‘Mashed Frog’ only one of which I sampled for reasons that will become clear. Good hygiene practices are always heavily promoted to the travelling public with some extreme recommendations such as cleaning all cutlery with alcohol swabs that rarely make a difference to your chances of contracting a food/waterborne illness. In fact a couple were reported in a scientific paper, who during a round the world trip practiced extreme methods of hygiene yet still contracted ‘One life threatening case of giardiasis, two episodes of diarrhoea and loose stools that persisted for 30 months after returning to Britain’. So whilst good hygiene is always highly recommended is it in fact the type of food that you eat that will cause more problems. Again there is little evidence to support this with one or two extreme exceptions such as raw oysters or very rare meat.

There are also a few other foods that have a high chance of contamination such as salads, especially broad-leafed vegetables such as lettuce. This is not unconnected to the use of ‘night soil’, which is a rather polite euphemism for human excrement, as fertiliser in some regions. Sauces, especially when served cold are a prime source of infection as these are often days old, stored in the kitchen where flies and other insects can quite happily feed on them before they arrive on the side of your plate.

The preparation of your food is the most important factor in its safety. If it is freshly prepared using good hygiene precautions with fresh ingredients, is served piping hot and not reheated you can enjoy your meal in relative safety, even contaminated lettuce when scrubbed and then washed in a weak solution of chlorine or iodine will then be safe to eat.

There is an old adage that will serve you well if applied at all times: ‘Peel it, cook it, boil it or forget it.’

Here are a few extra tips that may help you remain healthy whilst away:

• Ensure your food is well cooked, piping hot and freshly prepared from fresh ingredients
• Avoid salads and vegetables unless they have been thoroughly washed in water containing iodine or chlorine
• Avoid fish and shellfish whenever possible
• Peel all fruit
• Avoid dairy products and ice cream unless from a known reliable source (branded)
• Eat nothing from buffets or food that may have been laying around for any reason (My rat on a stick had been in the sun on a market stall for several hours)
• Avoid ‘Fried Rice’ that may be made from leftovers
• Stick to local dishes rather than ‘Westernised’ meals. The chefs will be more familiar with their preparation
• Avoid ice in your drinks
• Ensure that your drinking water is safe

Following some of the basic information given here, it can be seen that local food stalls need not be avoided. But following observation of the chef, the ingredients being used, and preparation techniques it will be a cheap and tasty way to experience the local cuisine. However, don’t forget to check under the table to make sure that he’s not been using the same barrel of water to clean his utensils all day!

For more information, visit the Nomad Travel web site: Nomad Travel or call the Travel Health Line: 0906 8633414 (calls cost 60p per min) to discuss your travel health queries.

Chinese marriage was systemized into custom in the Warring States period (402-221 B.C.). Due to the vast expanse and long history, there are different customs to follow in different places, although they are generally the same. Visitors still get chances to witness traditional marriages in the countryside.

In the ancient times, it was very important to follow a basic principle of Three Letters And Six Etiquettes, since they were essential to a marriage.

Three letters include Betrothal Letter, Gift Letter and Wedding Letter. Betrothal Letter is the formal document of the engagement, a must in a marriage. Then, a gift letter is necessary, which will be sent to the girl's family, listing types and quantity of gifts for the wedding once both parties accept the marriage. While the Wedding Letter refers to the document which will be prepared and presented to the bride's family on the day of the wedding to confirm and commemorate the formal acceptance of the bride into the bridegroom's family.

Six Etiquettes

Proposing: If an unmarried boy's parents identify a girl as their future daughter-in-law, then they will find a matchmaker. Proposal used to be practiced by a matchmaker. The matchmaker will formally present his or her client's request to the identified girl's parents.

Birthday matching: If the potential bride's parents do not object to the marriage, the matchmaker will ask for the girl's birthday and birth hour record to assure the compatibility of the potential bride and bridegroom. If the couple's birthdays and birth hours do not conflict according to astrology, the marriage will step into the next stage. Once there is any conflict, meaning the marriage will bring disasters to the boy's family or the girl's, the proposed marriage stops.

Presenting betrothal gifts: Once birthdays match, the bridegroom's family will then arrange the matchmaker to present betrothal gifts, enclosing the betrothal letter, to the bride's family.

Presenting wedding gifts: After the betrothal letter and betrothal gifts are accepted, the bridegroom's family will later formally send wedding gifts to the bride's family. Usually, gifts may include tea, lotus seeds, longan, red beans, green beans, red dates, nutmeg, oranges, pomegranate, lily, bridal cakes, coconuts, wine, red hair braid, money box and other stuff, depending on local customs and family wealth.

Picking a wedding date: An astrologist or astrology book will be consulted to select an auspicious date to hold the wedding ceremony.

Wedding ceremony: On the selected day, the bridegroom departures with a troop of escorts and musicians, playing happy music all the way to the bride's home. After the bride is escorted to the bridegroom's home, the wedding ceremony begins.

Different from the West, the colour red dominates the traditional Chinese wedding. Chinese people tend to use or wear red to add a happy atmosphere to such a festive occasion.

At dawn on the wedding day, after a bath in water infused with grapefruit, the bride puts on new clothes and wears a pair of red shoes, waiting for the so called good luck woman to dress her hair in the style of a married woman. Her head will be covered with a red silk veil with tassels or bead strings that hang from the phoenix crown. She waits for her future husband to escort her home, with married women talking around her about how to act to be a good wife.

On the other hand, the bridegroom prepares himself to receive his wife. He gets capped and dressed in a long gown, red shoes and a red silk sash with a silk ball on his chest, the groom kneels at the ancestral altar as his father puts a cap decorated with cypress leaves on his head to declare his adulthood and his family responsibility.

Then the bridegroom sets out to receive his bride. Usually he is escorted by a crowd of his friends and musicians who play joyful tunes the entire trip. Dancing lions, if any, precede the troop. In ancient times, a bridal sedan chair (or a decorated donkey due to poverty or bad traffic) would be used to serve the bride. A child carries a bridal box among the people, reflecting the bridegroom's expectation to have a child in the near future.

The most interesting part of the reception really takes place at the doorstep of the bride's residence, heavily guarded by the bridesmaid or sisters of the bride. It is customary for the bridesmaid to give the bridegroom a difficult time before he is allowed to enter. Usually wisdom and courage and his friends will help the bridegroom to succeed in his “trial”. However, there is one more situation he has to negotiate with the bridesmaid and sisters of the bride – to distribute among them red packets containing money – in order to take his bride home.

Before the bride departs to the bridegroom's home, the good luck woman will lead her to the sedan chair. On her way to the chair, a sister of hers will shield her with a red parasol and another will throw rice at the sedan chair, at the back of which hangs a sieve and a metallic mirror that are believed to protect the bride from evil. The bride has to cry to show that she does not want to leave her parents.

Then firecrackers will be set off to drive away evil spirits as the bride sits into the sedan chair. All along the way people make great efforts to avoid any inauspicious influence. For instance, the sedan chair is heavily curtained to prevent the bride from seeing an unlucky sight, e.g. a widow, a well or even a cat. When the parading troop arrives at the bridegroom's, firecrackers will be set off to hail the bride's arrival. Before the sedan chair a red mat is placed so that the bride will not touch the bare earth. By the threshold a flaming stove and a saddle will be set up, the bride is required to sidestep or step over them to avoid evils.

The wedding ceremony is the focus of interest. The bride and bridegroom are led to the family altar, where the couple kowtows to Heaven and Earth, the family ancestors and parents successively. Then they bow to each other and are led to the bridal chamber. The ceremony proceeds under a director's prompts and applauses of the audience.

Then there will be a grand feast for relatives and those who help in the wedding. The newly wed couple will resume drinking wedding wine. Generally they are required to cross their arms to sip wine. They also will toast their guests. Guests voice their good wishes for the couple even though the bridegroom is trying to be humble while acting embarrassed.

Teasing games in the bridal chamber: After night falls, the teasing games start. Usually all young men can participate except for the bride's married brothers-in-law. Those funny and silly games will ease the tension, since in ancient times the newlyweds never met each other before the wedding! Most of the games require the shy couple to act like wife and husband. The festive atmosphere also promotes closeness among all the family members and the community beyond. There also will be other activities conducted by the bridegroom's mother after the roaring laughter fades into the darkness.

Preparing the bridal bed: A good luck man, usually having a nice family, will help to install the bridal bed in the right place in the bridal chamber on a selected day before the wedding day. Before the wedding, a good luck woman will arrange the bridal bed and scatter symbolic and lucky fruits on the bed. Nobody is allowed to touch the bed until the couple enters the bridal chamber after the wedding ceremony. Children will then be invited onto the bed to bless fertility of the couple.

Dowry: Usually the bride's dowry shall be sent to the bridegroom's family by the day before the wedding day. Sometimes the bride’s escorts will bring the dowry. A traditional dowry normally consists of items such as jewellery, embroidered beddings, kitchen utensils and furniture. The type of the dowry is always changing except for the basic, symbolic items. For example, dozens of years ago, a sewing machine, a bicycle, and a recorder were musts in a marriage. Now, they are totally out of fashion.

Bride's Return: Traditionally, the newlyweds are to return to visit the bride's parents one or three days after the wedding. They will be hailed with a banquet, and it is the bridegroom's turn to suffer the well-intentioned teasing of the bride's relatives and friends.

Traditional marriage customs lost their popularity due to the collapse of feudal marriage customs and their complexity. However, traditional marriage can still be seen in the countryside, despite innovations. Now, traditional marriage customs are revived in some places, and they are attracting many prospective couples.

paula7141@yahoo.com.

Can anyone help Jill: For the last eighteen months I've been trying to find out exactly what was the sterling travel allowance (Exchange Control) which British citizens were allowed to take out of the U.K. in July 1964.

H.M. Customs and Excise have come up with five possible answers but basically admit they don't know; the Treasury have no comment – I seem to have exhausted every possible avenue, having endlessly trawled almanacs, newspapers, the Web etc.

A Globetrotter member – Rene Richards reports – it was £25 in the early 60's reaching £50 in 1970– however I know from a contemporary Cunard document of 1961 that it was £50 then, so did it go down and if so when?

The novel for which I need this is due for publication by Penguin in 2003 and we're reaching final copy-editing any moment now, so any help would be most gratefully received – so, offering my thanks in advance.

If you feel you can help Jill, she can be contacted at jill@laurimore.fsnet.co.uk

During the medieval period the Cotswold area underwent a startling transition from small scale agriculture to large scale wool production. This shift, most noticeable by the 15th century, enabled wool merchants to realize tremendous profits with the aid of the “Golden Fleece” produced by Cotswold sheep.

The “gold” in this case refers not to the colour of the fleece itself but the tremendous economic value it possessed. The prosperous wool merchants put back some of the money they earned into their local communities, often by building manors for themselves, but just as frequently by endowing their parish churches.

The “wool churches” of the Cotswolds are among the most elaborate and architecturally attractive in the entire country due to the largesse of successful wool merchants. Many of these magnificent buildings are like mini-cathedrals, complete with fanciful carvings, elaborate ornamentation and funereal monuments inside the church. Taken as a whole, the parish churches of the Cotswold area constitute a superb collection of architecturally important historic buildings. And to those who enjoy medieval architecture, the Cotswold churches offer an unparalleled experience.

It is perhaps dangerous to single out just a few Cotswold wool churches for special mention, as so many deserve a leisurely visit, but mention should be made of a few personal favourites. The church of St. Peter and St. Paul at Northleach is one of the finest wool churches in England, with the lavishly carved south porch worthy of special note.

As with most wool churches the magnificence of Northleach can be traced to the endowments of a few wealthy patrons. In this case the donors were Thomas Fortey (d. 1447 ) and his son John (d. 1458). With its decorated parapets and soaring pinnacles Northleach is reminiscent of a fairy tale castle as much as a parish church.

Another personal favourite would have to be St. Peter at Winchcombe. Not as fanciful or striking as Northleach, Winchcombe is of slightly later date and has suffered at the hands of Victorian restorers. Yet despite this, the church has a peculiar charm, due in part to the survival of a profusion of gargoyles populating the parapets. These gargoyles, both in human and animal form, provide a wonderfully whimsical touch amid the architectural beauty wrought by generations of craftsmen.

I would also be remiss if I didn't mention St. Mary's at Fairford. The first glimpse of the church rising above low pasture land to the west is likely to make unsuspecting visitors stop in their tracks and stare (as I did). The ornamentation of the tower is reminiscent of lace, so extravagant is the stonework.

The magnificence of the carving may seem out of place in this quiet market town, but it gives a fascinating glimpse at what life must have been like when the “Golden Fleece” brought prosperity to this region. Fairford is unique in that it possesses the most complete set of pre-Reformation stained glass in the country. As a final, whimsical, touch, look for the carven effigy of a pet cat just outside the main entry.

For more on the Cotswold region and its magnificent wool churches visit: http://www.the-cotswolds.org/top/english/intro.html

Source: Britainexpress.com

The planet has 6.157 billion people, of whom, 4.5% are in the US, and 1% in the UK.

• 30% of the world’s population is less than 15 years old, but in the US this is 21% and 19% in the UK.
• The world’s birth rate of 21 per 1,000 people is higher than the US rate of 14 and the UK’s 12.
• 7% of the world’s population is at least 65 years old, compared to
• 13% in the US and 16% in the UK
• Life expectancy at birth is 64 years, compared to 77 in the US and 78 in the UK.
• Of the 407 million internet users, 36% are in the US and 5% are in the UK. (Don’t forget, the US has c.250 m people, compared to 64m in the UK.)

Source: Simon Briscoe, The Financial Times, 27/7/02

Spotted by our eagle-eyed Webmaster: The only way a pilot can apply for a job at Ryanair is via the internet. The recruitment data contains credit card information because Ryanair refuses to consider applications unless a £50 fee is paid.

Sensitive personal information, such as credit card details, health records and career history, is collected by the unsecured site and sent in unencrypted email to the company's back office.

Ryanair admits that its online recruitment website has a serious security flaw which exposes job seekers' details to the eyes of crackers and unencrypted emails could breach Data Protection Act.

Phil Robinson, managing consultant at Information Risk Management, pointed out that the inclusion of credit card details made the vulnerability “very serious”. Unlike personal data, credit card details can easily be turned into money.

Embarrassingly for the airline, this vulnerability is easy and cheap to avoid. Secure socket layer (SSL) security, the encryption feature in the software, should be switched on and the company then has only to spend a few hundred pounds on a digital certificate to ensure that data is sent to the correct party instead of to a rogue server.

Ryanair's recruitment site states explicitly that applicants' information will remain confidential. “That is clearly incorrect,” said Robinson. “The way the data is submitted is totally unconfidential.”
Source: By Liesbeth Evers, Network News [31-10-2001]