Globetrotters meeting on 5^th April by Padmassana

Our first speaker Thomas Bourne showed us slides of Chile, Patagonia, Antarctica and South Georgia. Thomas had spent his gap year on board a 55ft ketch as a “Cabin boy”. He started his voyage in Chile, showing us wonderful views of the Chilean lakes, volcano’s and the San Rafael glacier, which is the earth’s furthest glacier from its respective pole. Thomas also showed us the local wildlife including sea lion, dolphins and albatrosses. He sailed south in his boat and called in at Ushaia. This seemed a veritable metropolis after weeks at sea. After rounding Cape Horn and transiting the Drake Passage he headed down to Antarctica, reaching a very impressive 66 degrees and 3 minutes south. We saw pictures of massive tabular icebergs that had weird shapes carved out of them by the elements, though Thomas pointed out that it was the small “bergy bits” that float just under the surface that are a more serious threat to the safety of small craft travelling at 6 Knots. Our final views were of South Georgia, which has been visited by less than 100 yachts. This made Thomas feel that he had been very privileged to have spent 12 months doing this exciting trip.

Our second speaker was one of Padmassana’s favourite travel writers, the intrepid cyclist Anne Mustoe. On this her second visit to the Globetrotters Club, Anne took us from Kathmandu in Nepal to Kandy in Sri Lanka, following the route of the epic Indian Ramayana story. Anne’s journey took her via many of India’s famous sights including The Residency in Lucknow, where 2000 Britons were killed during the Indian mutiny. Anne couldn’t see India without visiting Agra and the stunning Taj Mahal. Anne introduced us to her Agra rickshaw driver on whom she took pity and ended up doing an impromptu shopping expedition around Agra in order that her driver received a 5 Rupee tip from each shop, which went towards the daily hire fee of his vehicle. Anne continued south often staying in less than desirable accommodation, however she occasionally splurged such as when she stayed at the Taj Hotel in Mumbai, where the doormen had the opportunity to “park” her cycle instead of the BMW’s and Mercedes that they were more used to. Anne took a number of British winters to complete this epic trip down India before eventually ending up in Sri Lanka her goal accomplished. Visit Anne’s website for more details www.annemustoe.co.uk

Coming up: Saturday 10th May

Windy Baboulene – The Blue road Windy left school at 16 and travelled the world for 4 years working on cargo ships. The “hilarious and bizarre” true story of his adventures has been published entitled “Blue Road” and is the foundation for his talk. John Harrison – Amazon adventures John has made seven canoeing expeditions to the Amazon, besides travelling lengths of the Niger and rivers in Europe and North America. His expeditions travel without radio or back up, exploring some of the Amazon’s remotest tributaries with the old style “risk-adventure” approach. John has chaired RGS Tropical Rainforest workshops, written “Up the Creek” an Amazonian Adventure, been the subject of a TV documentary “John Harrison Explorer” and has made several programmes for BBC Radio 4.

London meetings are held at The Church of Scotland, Crown Court, behind the Fortune Theatre in Covent Garden at 2.30pm the first Saturday of each month. There is no London meeting in August, but we will be back in September. For more information, you can contact the Globetrotters Info line on +44 (0) 20 8674 6229, or visit the website: www.globetrotters.co.uk

“Ladakh: The last Shangri-la?”

“In the forbidding terrain of the Himalayas, a robust people embellish their frugal lives with rich endowments of faith” (Thomas J. Abercrombie, National Geographic). Experience the beauty of this exotic land through a slide show by Kenneth Axen, PhD, research scientist, graphic artist, and serious amateur photographer.

For details of forthcoming meetings email newyork@globetrotters.co.uk or register for email updates, click here at our website.

New York meetings are held at The Wings Theatre, 154 Christopher Street (btw Greenwich St and Washington St), to the right of Crunch Fitness, in the Archive on the first Saturday of each month at 4 pm.

For information on Ontario meetings, please contact Svatka Hermanek: shermanek@schulich.yorku.ca or Bruce Weber: tel. 416-203-0911 or Paul Webb: tel. 416-694-8259.

Meetings are held on the third Friday of January, March, May, September and November. Usually at the Woodsworth Co-op, Penthouse, 133, Wilton Street in downtown Toronto at 8.00 p.m.

Globetrotters meeting on 12^th April by Christina

The April meeting in Texas provided a plethora of travel tips – from the virtues of ziplock bags to the uses of duct tape when travelling. Each month new people attend this branch meeting (3 in April) and eagerly state they are looking forward to the next meeting.

Coming up May 10^th at the New Braunfels Public Library

The May meeting will provide a magical mystery slide trip. Attendees come from Austin, San Antonio, the Texas Hill Country and even Corpus Christi. The May meeting will be at the New Braunfels Public Library, conveniently located 1 1/2 miles from IH35.

Come one, come all. Make new friends and see old ones. Keeping in tradition with the London meeting, the Texans adjourn to the Hoity Toit for more fun and fellowship following the monthly meeting.

Come see us, y’all! Second Saturday at 2 p.m.

The Texas Branch of the Globetrotters Club will meet Saturday May 10th, 2003 at the New Braunfels Public Library – note back to old location.

If you like independent, adventuresome, fun, daring, exciting, “off the beaten path” travel, this club is for you. Our meeting begins at 2 P.M. Come early so you won’t be late! Enjoy handouts, travel talk time, and door prizes!

Dates of future meetings: June 14^th

Mark your calendars

For more information about the Texas Branch: please contact texas@globetrotters.co.uk or register for email updates at our website (click here) or call Christina at 830-620-5482

If anybody would like to enquire about meetings or help Christina, please contact her on: texas@globetrotters.co.uk

Heathrow airport is one of four airports that are almost dotted like the four points of the compass in and around London. There’s London Gatwick to the south of London, City Airport in the east of London and the Beetle’s most hated airport, Stansted, and home of the infamous Ryanair to the north of London. LHR or London Heathrow is some 24km or 15 miles to the west of London.

Before WW2, the airstrip at Heathrow was little more than a grass strip and a tent a little walk away. Back then, it was called The Great Western Aerodrome and was privately owned by the Fairey company and used largely for test flying. London’s commercial flights took off from nearby Heston and Hanworth Park airfields.

As was the case with many airports in large cities, WW2 changed the nature and importance of these otherwise small airstrips. The UK Air Ministry requisitioned the airstrip in 1944 with a view to it being developed as a major transport base for the Royal Air Force. The war ended before the work was completed but this new airstrip with its modern amenities lent itself to cater for the massive post war demand for civil aviation. One runway was ready for use and when the Ministry of Civil Aviation took it over in 1946 a tented terminal was quickly put in place. By 1947, three other runways had been completed and work on another three, subsequently abandoned as unnecessary, was going on. A new and permanent building arose in the central area at the start of the 1950s, replacing the army surplus tent.

In 1955, Terminal 2 was constructed to cope with the ever increasing demand for flight travel. Next came the new Oceanic terminal handling long-haul carriers, a function it still performs as Terminal 3, followed by the opening of Terminal 1 in 1968. Increased congestion in the central area led to the birth of Terminal 4 in 1986 on the south side of the airport, a 10 minute transfer away by tube.

Today, Heathrow is one of the world’s busiest airports and has 60,000 workers.

Terminal 1: is for all domestic flights, most UK airline departures to Europe plus EL AL and South African Airways flights.

Terminal 2: is for most non-UK carriers’ flights to Europe and some long haul destinations.

Terminal 3: is the long haul terminal for US, South American, Asian and Asia Pacific airlines plus most African carriers.

Terminal 4: is for British Airways long haul and Concorde flights and BA flights to Amsterdam, Athens, Paris, Moscow and Tel Aviv. KLM and Qantas also use T4.

Richard was a volunteer working in Mikindani, Tanzania for a UK based charity, Trade Aid.

It is with mixed feelings that I am about to leave Mikindani, although I would hasten to add that the vast majority of those feelings are positive. The one experience that will definitely stay with me will be home stay; it was an experience that was both extremely valuable and informative. It has certainly changed the way I think, especially about the lives we lead back in England (sorry the “UK” for all you Irish, Scots and Welsh)

There have been many other interesting, frustrating and somewhat bizarre experiences whilst I have been here. Perhaps the most interesting experience has been the teaching, (the little that I did due to all the predictable reasons, i.e. no teachers or pupils). This has certainly provided me with an insight into the village, the good chances it has for the future and also more realistically, many of the problems that need to be overcome. The will is there, it just needs to be taken advantage of and used. Trade Aid has done a lot towards that.

This interesting experience also ties in with one of the most frustrating experiences, there were many exhausting mornings spent cycling to various schools only to find that they were locked up and not a soul was to be seen, (the previous day was usually spent arranging a time to teach that day with the headmaster). A familiar experience I’m sure for many of the volunteers, patience and calm are certainly a virtue here. I do hope that none of the villagers witnessed my minor temper tantrums when this happened! However the best way to chill out after days like these was always the time honoured Trade Aid method of unwinding. Bingwa!

Work here has included continuing staff training; this was certainly an excellent way to get to know them, and yet again another good way to gain an insight into the village. The one thing that impressed me the most was the staffs enthusiasm to learn and their professionalism toward the guests. As patronising as this sounds it is something that has been mentioned by many of the guests at the Boma. I think that my time here in Mikindani has done many things for me, it has certainly opened my eyes to a very different corner of the world, and it has also made me far more aware of the problems facing the third world. However, it has also moved my views away from the slightly candied images and views we hear and see in the West. I do not mean this in a bad way, just that my views have become more realistic as opposed to simplistic. Africa has many problems, and what I have realised that it’s a two man job to help areas like Mikindani, help from the outside is fine, but the people on the receiving end need to be prepared to help themselves. Thankfully this is what’s happening in Mikindani.

The big question I find myself asking now is how will I feel when I get back to the UK. I have been told by some that it is odd getting used to all of the things that you do not find in Mikindani, and that you have adapted to, such as no Tanesco at inconvenient times, and no hot water. However I have no doubt that I will very easily get used to hot baths again and the sweet, sweet smell of bacon. So goodbye Mikindani I certainly shan’t forget you.

For more information about Trade Aid, volunteers and their work, please visit their website www.mikindani.com or e-mail Sherie on tradeaid@netcomuk.co.uk

A recent report by the UK newspaper, the Independent said that the Gambian Tourism Association is fed up with reports saying that 60% of visitors to the country would not return after they found themselves the target of harassment by bumsters (beach boys). Some tourists, who were quoted as saying that The Gambia offers a wonderful and ideal holiday experience, said the bumster menace presents a frightening blot. The Gambia Tourism Authority (GTA) has announced that they are adopting tougher measures against the presence of beach boys (bumsters), through the temporary use of the National Guard.

Comments from tourists reported by the Independent include:

‘I found The Gambia excellent apart from the hassling, not only from the people outside, but also from the staff at the hotels, which should be stopped’, said a tourist who was ending his holiday.

”I found it difficult to cope with the harassment outside the hotel and the constant begging. There were times when I did not to go outside the hotel’ another complained to the Independent newspaper.

Other tourists were however more interested in the brighter side of the country, saying that in spite of harassment from bumsters they will return.

The bumsters said that the approach adopted by the GTA, having armed guards patrolling the beaches is a curb on their freedom. They noted that since the start of the tourist season soldiers are seen in every part of the industry armed with guns and arresting any individual or group of people on sight. However they said people arrested around hotels are taken to the Fajara military barracks, where they are subjected to hard labour and their heads completely shaved. According to them even girls found around the TDA are not spared. They are rounded up and forced to do laundry.

Despite the bumsters, the Beetle wondered what there was to do in The Gambia and has come up with the following suggestions.

When to Go:

The Gambia is a popular winter holiday destination. The best time to go is between November and March when it is dry and cooler than the searing hot summer months. The rainy season is June to October. Visitors no longer require a Yellow Fever certificate, (unless you are arriving from a country where Yellow Fever is endemic.) Most visitors from Europe do not require a visa for stays of up to 28 days. There should be no jet lag coming from the UK, as Gambian time is (theoretically!) the same as GMT. The Gambians have a reputation as being a very friendly people, but watch out for the beach boys, locally called “bumsters” – see above – who have a tendency to harangue, hassle and generally ask tourists for money.

Where to Go:

Most people come to the Gambia to stay for a week or two on one of the beaches on the Atlantic coast. It’s pretty easy to get to as the 10 km stretch of hotels is only about 15km from Banjul International airport. Popular resorts include Bakau, Fajara, Kotu and Kololi where you can find many good class hotels with all the usual tourist attractions including golf courses, water sports, cycle rental and good beaches for swimming and sunning. Incidentally, the further south you stay, the better the beach is likely to be for swimming. Banjul is served by a number of charter and scheduled flights from Europe and other African countries.

Banjul, the Capital:

You might be tempted to step outside your hotel compound as there are some interesting sites around The Gambia. Banjul, the capital city is on an island at the mouth of the River Gambia, separated from the mainland by a narrow creek. Because of its location, it has never really grown into a large city and it is worth maybe half a day to wander around. Take a look at Albert Market, a great example of an African market, with its fruit and veg stands, shoes and clothes and household goods. Close to the market on MacCarthy Square there is a War Memorial and Fountain, erected to commemorate the coronation of Britain’s King George VI in 1937. The Gambia National Museum is a bit decrepit but has displays of photos, maps and text about archaeology, African people and the colonial period. Close by is The Gambia’s tallest building, the 35m (115ft) Arch 22 which was built to celebrate the military coup of 22 July 1994 (led by Lieutenant Yahya Jammeh, who is still The Gambia’s president). You can go up the arch – take a camera as it has great views over the city and the coast.

Roots:

If you enjoyed reading the book Roots or seeing the film or TV series, you could take a tour to explore Jufureh, a small village on the northern bank of the River Gambia about 25km (15miles) upstream from Banjul. In Roots, Jufureh is the place where Kunta Kinte, Alex Haley’s ancestor, was captured here and taken as a slave to America some 200 years ago. Today, Jufureh is very much on the tourist trail as it’s easily reached from Banjul although there’s actually not a huge amount to see there, but the locals put in an appearance, there’s an artisan’s market and again, according to the Lonely Planet, an old lady called Binde Kinte, (a descendant of Haley’s), makes a guest appearance at her compound. Photos are produced of Haley and Binde Kinte and of the griot (storyteller) who first told Haley the tale of his family. The tours you can take usually include the village of Albreda. Here you can see the ruined ‘factory’, a fortified slave house originally built by the French in the late 17th century, and there’s a museum that tells you about the history of slavery on the River Gambia.

Well, that’s Banjul visited! If you are a twitcher, there’s good bird watching to be had around the mangrove swamps of Banjul Island; there are plenty of tours. The Gambia’s largest town and de facto capital is Serekunda. This is the transport hub and the economic centre of the country. There’s not a huge amount to see here for the tourist, but if you want to look around urban Africa, then this is it.

OK, so back to the Atlantic resorts: Bakau, the northernmost resort has botanical gardens, if that is your thing. They were established during colonial times and according to Lonely Planet it is looking “a little dilapidated now, but it’s still a peaceful, shady place that’s good for spotting birds”. Also at Bakau there is the Kachikaly Crocodile Pool, a sacred site for the local people, who come here to pray, as crocodiles among some tribes in The Gambia represent the power of fertility. At the southern end of the coastal strip at Kololi, there is a small wildlife reserve, Bijolo Forest Park, which has trails through dense, shady vegetation, where you can often see monkeys and birds.

Getting Around:

It is pretty easy to get around in The Gambia. Green (Tourist) Taxis are painted green with a diamond sign and a serial number on the side. They are licensed by the Gambia Tourism Authority and dedicated to serving tourists and other visitors. They are normally parked outside the hotels in the resort areas. Yellow and Green taxis are mainly 4 passenger saloon cars painted in these colours which run a shared taxi service between short distances or park by the roadside for individual hire. Collective (Bush) Taxi: The most common way of travelling in The Gambia is by Collective Taxis otherwise called ‘Bush’ Taxis. These are mainly 7 passenger saloon cars, vans and mini- buses and buses. They do not have a single colour and operate everywhere.

The Beetle would like to hear from you, if you have visited The Gambia – how did you find it?

Sitting silently during the drive over from Rosleague Manor to Killary Harbour, I reflected on whether this was one of those trips where I would fail to write about what I could see. Despite being surrounded by striking views, I was troubled on how find a theme with which I could connect an article.

However as soon as I had dismissed any writing expectations I might have had, our progression along the fantastically situated N59 immediately provided the missing inspiration! As this west coast route ran along side Kylemore Lough, it struck me that autumn Connemara is full of rich, varied colours, which are vividly magnified by the ever-changing climates of each weathered hill we passed. These colours instantly brightened as the afternoon sun chased away the day’s heavy rain clouds leaving a valley of wet, verdant grass to open up before our eyes. Further out across the landscape of boggy fields and coniferous plantations, neatly stacked and apparently drying (!) peat bricks helped contrast this lush greenness. At this section of the N59, the road rises away from Kylemore and up alongside the mitre shaped and wonderfully named Church of our Lady of the Wayside! Across the horizon the dark, sodden clouds clung to the high peaks of the distant Maumturk Mountain, lingering for simple chance to return centre stage.

If I were ever to seek voluntary exile, Killary Harbour would be high on my choice of havens! As the N59 drove us towards our initial view of Ireland’s only fjord (can anyone provide a geological definition?) I found myself surprised by what lay ahead. To the north the 817 metre high Mweelrea shouldered this long, silver water along its winding course, whilst the road, sheep and houses competed for footholds on the lower hillsides of the southern shore. Despite this forcing of direction, Killary itself still had space to be laned- off like a swimming pool by the blue buoys of the local fish farms. At the head of this natural harbour sat the scattered village of Leenane and the Aasleagh Falls, across which the browned and fast flowing Erriff River flowed out and into the harbour.

To stop rather than peer round the next corner of our road was difficult but the deep red and slowly settling Guinness of Gaynors’ allowed us a splendid retrospective on what we had just taken in ! And even though we were almost as far west as possible on the Irish mainland, Steve and I found the hospitality of this whole haven to be of somewhere much more cosmopolitan…

How else could these colours be surpassed? Later from our week of touring I could offer up the small market town of Westport with its brightly painted market streets or the tidally excluded Omey Island but I feel that our journey to Inis Mór deserves is a highlight worth mentioning.

At the third time of asking we were able to catch the ferry across to the largest Aran Island and spend the best part of a glorious day surrounded by blue seas and bright, clear skies! A smooth forty five minutes later we found ourselves spilling out in to Kilronan, where the majority of our fellow passengers were swept up by the waiting horse and bicycle-hiring locals towards the most famous Celtic antiquities. Steve and I had to be different, much to the consternation of many, and as such we walked in the opposite direction towards Killeany. My fellow traveller even managed to add to the collection of colours in his own style – as without notice he stumbled across the beach and had to issue expletives and bloodied grazes to make himself feel better! All that our small tourist map seemed to reward such stubbornness with was a ruined castle and a very precariously perched church!

However reality and bright sunshine proffered sights of both that deserved better depiction. Caisleán Aircín, built in the sixteenth century, did not survive its Cromwellian ransacking and now exists solely as a facade monitoring Killeany Bay. Aran Islanders have since stole a march on twenty-first century recycling ideas by converting much of the castle’s rear into small farm buildings and dry stone walls. Though the claim to be one of the smallest churches known to exist could be counter claimed, Teampall Bheanain did offer a wonderful perspective across the eastern end of the island. According to myth and legend St Bheanain, a successor to Ireland’s patron saint at Armagh, had this small and unorthodox church built over one thousand years ago. Unusually to those in the know, this church stands on a north-south axis, allowing the sweeping weather to ride along its’ frame rather than across any roof that it might have supported! Sitting up against one of its granite grey walls we could understand why the founder soon accepted a higher position on the mainland, even though his church had not been completed too long ! The nearby airfield and its surprisingly regular prop driven flights emphasised the battering that Inis Mór faces – how could those small aircraft handle those constant winds?

Returning from our perch, the leisurely paced walk awoke me to the fact that all journeys have to end and that our general direction was now eastwards, all the way back to our home lives. Still time a plenty left to enjoy an ever growing delight of mine in west Ireland – fresh seafood washed down with another of Arthur Guinness’s finest at The Aran Islander!

Contact the author of this article: Matt is happy to be contacted if you’d like some more information about planning your travels or about any of the places he talks about in his own travel planning. E-mail mattdoughty@tiscali.co.uk