Trip duration: 56 days
Trip miles to date: 5,632
Miles since last update: 472

Having completed over 5,600 miles in the previous 5 weeks, these past two weeks have been frustratingly static as I've waited for the Beemer to complete its rest and recuperation courtesy of the BMW dealership in Santiago. Having sampled a lot of wine, I've visited probably every museum in Santiago and spent a long lazy weekend in Valparaìso I'm definitely ready to get moving again.

I'm also sad to report that shortly after I left the Torres del Paine national park an intense forest fire broke out which has now been burning for 3 weeks. Over 14,000 acres have been destroyed and wildlife has fled from the area and the entire park closed in what was peak season.

The fire was started by a Czech tourist who knocked over his stove whilst illegally camping outside the official boundaries, trails and designated camping areas – after a fine of US$200 he was allowed to leave the country. Significant attempts to teach visitors the perils of fire were plastered all around the park when I was there and the stupidity of the Czech made national news.

Ruta 5 up from Temuco was a 2 lane, blissfully smooth, tarmac road all the way to Santiago. In fact Ruta 5 is the major artery that runs the length of Chile from the tip of Chiloe in the south to Arica, on the border with Peru in the north – a distance of some 1,600 miles and is probably better known as the Panamerica highway.

Although this is not highway in the English sense of the word. Even for the stretch leading to Santiago, you should think less M25 and more like a medium size A-road. The speed limit is 120 kph (75mph) although most vehicles seem to interpret this as “as-fast-as-this-vehicle-will-allow” and speed differentials vary greatly.

Another notable feature is the volume and bravery of pedestrians. The entire length seems to harbour life like a coral reef as towns and villages straddle the road. Locals seem to appear from all directions and fearlessly cross the road in the face of onrushing traffic. Strangely I saw a woman, carrying 2 small children, struggle over the raised central reservation (rather than use the raised pedestrian walkway installed not more than 50 metres away).

My initial view of Santiago was breathtaking and surprising. Having spent many weeks in the wilderness of Tierra del Fuego and Pategonia the mere sight of a huge, sprawling city containing millions of citizens was surprising. My initial impressions of Santiago were of a warm, friendly and generally happy capital. In fact I felt more comfortable than Buenos Aires – I'm not sure if this is a reflection of the comparable characteristics of the 2 cities, or the fact that I'm more conditioned to South America after nearly 2 months.

One first task was to collect a package sent from Touratech – being a replacement lid to the pannier box and various other parts. Rather than deliver them to the hotel, DHL left me a note requesting I pick up the package from the airport (thanks!) as the goods exceeded the US$500 limit on imported packages. After I pointed out that the only reason it exceeded US$500 was because they had forgotten to omit the US$400 freight costs they conceded I could collect the package after I paid a further US$200 import taxes.

I struggled to keep my temper after I pointed out that US$200 taxes on goods worth no more than US$150 could not be right. It frustratingly took me 4 hours to persuade DHL and custom officers (including opening up the package) that taxes were not due and I could leave the airport with the parts. As a piece of luggage, the price is comparable to anything Louis Vitton ever put out but it has bought me piece of mind and will make life easier.

The ride up took me through the prime wine-growing real estate of Chile. After depositing the Beemer with the (only) BMW garage in Chile I rented a pick-up and headed back down the road to tour the area and sample some of the produce. The quality of the wine belies its price and the Carmenère grape (unique to Chile) has become a favourite.

After 3 of the 4 days had passed I quickly appreciated that they would need at least another week (waiting for parts) so I hired a car and drove to Valparaìso, the historic port town about 60 miles to the west.

Rather ungainfully tacked onto the side of Valparaìso is Vinà del Mar. Whilst Valparaìso is a busy commercial port full of historical buildings, busy market places and rickety old carriages that ascend the surrounding hills to the residential areas Vinà del Mar is full of bars, restaurants, modern shopping malls and beach side holiday apartments for wealthy Chileans.

After 4 days of wandering around the raised walkways and picturesque alleyways of Valparaìso and 1 day sitting on the beach in Vinà del Mar I returned to Santiago to check on progress of the Beemer. Good news and bad news awaited me.

The bike was still 3 days away from being finished but they had discovered a holed radiator (explaining an overheating issue on the road into Santiago) and a burnt-out wiring loom where the heated grips had shorted following the crash in Argentina. The fork seals had arrived and were being fitted as I visited and as I write this I expect to pick up the bike this afternoon – after depositing an unfeasibly huge amount of money with the garage.

These past 2 weeks have moved incredibly slowly, the bike (and I) are back in good shape to tackle the demands of the Atacama desert and onwards to Bolivia and the Salar de Uluni.

If you want to know more about Greg's travels, visit his website at: http://www.unbeatentrack.com/

We are sorry to say that Mac is not very well, but he is still e-mailing strong and recently sent the Beetle a collection of travel reminiscences.

Scotland. Inch is Gallic for island. Firth is a mouth of a river. Brae is a hill. Haggis is in a shape of a ball but you don't kick it you eat it. It is sheep's intestines and oatmeal wrapped in a sheep's bladder. After you eat it you wish you had kicked it. It was so clear when I was in Edinburgh that I could see to Fife from the Firth of Forth or maybe it was Forth I saw from the Fife of Firth. A Firth is like a fjord only not as far. Anyway it was a clear day.

Many years ago I gave a Scottish lady some tea bags I was carrying in my backpack. The lady had been used to brewing tea in bulk and said Oh how clever they have measured out a spoonful in a container. She then ripped open tea bag and dropped the contents into the pot. (I am sure they probably have tea bags now!)

And let's move on to Irish toasts. An Irish guide toasted us with, “Here's to the best years of my life, spent in the arms of another man's wife, my Mother”. The guide in Dublin Castle told us of a hanging judge. The judge would fall asleep while hearing a case and then all of a sudden wake up, bang his gravel and shout, “Hang the Dog.” A priest at mass in Dublin one morning told this story. He said he was giving a sermon on death and remarked that everyone in the Parish would die some day. One guy had a big smile on his face and when asked why he was smiling replied, “I am not from this parish!”

One of the residents here in the Soldier's home is going to Scotland and England for a month this Fall and another friend of mine here at the home (Saigon) is interested in things Scottish so I am copying stuff down from an interesting article I found in the Travel Section Washington Times. The title of the article is The Enchanting Highlands by Corina Lothar. “Mr Owens arrives in 18th century attire and explains the history of the Scottish Kilt which dates back about 1,000 years and is related to the Roman toga and Indian Sari. He demonstrates how to pleat the eight yards of fabric and tells us that the white cockade in the cap is the symbol of Bonnie Prince Charlie and the Jacobites in the 18th century Battle of Calddean. The sporran, the curious pouch hanging in the front of the kilt originally was used to carry oatmeal (I never knew that) still a staple of Scottish kitchens.

Women too wore long kilts. The warring clansmen carried a targe (shield) with spikes and a dagger in the left hand and a basket-hilted broadsword in the right. Expressions such as “going off half-cocked” and “a flash in the pan” and “sideburns” all come from clan warfare, reflecting the dangers of incorrectly cocked musket and the facial hair worn to protect the cheek from powder burns (so that is where term sideburns comes from. I never knew that. There is so much I don't know!

Kilt pins are a Victorian addition. Queen Victoria who was never easily amused, reviewed one of her Highland regiments on a windy day. Pins were soon ordered to keep the slits in the kilts closed. All of which brings us to this very old joke. A soldier wearing a kilt is asked by a young lass what is worn under the kilt. The soldier replies. “Nothing is worn. Everything is in fine shape.”

There is a Victorian mansion in Scotland built by Jardine Matheson of Hong Kong. Owner of “go-downs” as the Chinese workers first called the warehouses in that formerly British Colony (as in “Go down to collect a bale of hemp.) This is me talking now. When I was in Hong Kong I was told that the expression cumshaw (meaning asking for a tip) came from the Chinese who used to go out and meet the U.S. military ships with small boats to take the sailors ashore in their small boats away from the huge ships that could not get in any closer. They learned to say Come Shore and they would get tips for hauling them ashore. It finally got to sounding like Comshaw or whatever the expression is asking for money.

Ten percent of the whisky lost (in processing) through evaporation is called “the angels share”. Distilleries are open to the public from April through October. “The Royal Scotsman (tourist train) speeds through the wild Scottish countryside on iron, not brine through deep green forests of pine moors that turn purple in August and September when the heather is in bloom.

If you would like to contact Mac, he can be e-mailed on: macsan400@yahoo.com

Ryanair has defended its policy on disabled passengers after it was criticised for ejecting nine blind and partially sighted passengers from one of its flights. The passengers, all from the UK were escorted from the aircraft minutes before take-off from London's Stansted Airport as the airline's safety rules limit the number of “disabled/mobility-impaired” passengers to four per flight. It was reported that some of the passengers, who were on their way to Italy had to wait for six hours for another flight, while others spent the night sleeping on the airport floor. One passenger said, “It was dreadful. You felt like a criminal. We were all devastated.”

Ryanair defended their decision as they say it is their policy to ensure that crew could attend to disabled passengers individually in the case of emergency evacuations. Ryanair also said that the nine passengers were asked to take a later flight because they did not, as required, notify Ryanair of their disability at the time of booking and there were already three disabled passengers on board. An official statement issued by Ryanair said, “It would have been unsafe to allow a total of 12 disabled/reduced-mobility passengers to travel on board the flight… Ryanair's number one priority at all times is the safety of its passengers and crew.” The passengers rejected Ryanair's argument saying that they could walk, had partially sighted or fully sighted guides and would be able to leave an aircraft in an emergency as quickly as anyone else.

As a result of the above case, Ryanair says it will change its policy on carrying blind and partially-sighted passengers. Any vision-impaired passenger accompanied by a sighted companion would now no longer be required to inform the airline in advance, the Irish carrier announced in what it called a “common sense change.” However, passengers travelling alone would remain part of its limit on four reduced-mobility passengers per flight.

And still on the theme of visually impaired passengers, the Royal National Institute of the Blind (RNIB) says that Ryanair appears to be offering disabled passengers a lower standard of service when they book over its website. The RNIB is investigating a complaint that blind passengers are not entitled to the same low fares as others when they book online. The RNIB cited an example of a blind man who tried to book online. The website's booking process states:

“Passengers with special needs requirements must pre-book their requirement through Ryanair Direct on the same day as your original booking”. It lists the telephone numbers of reservation centres and warns: “Failure to advise Ryanair of your requirements on the day of booking will result in the service being unavailable on your arrival to the airport and you being refused carriage.” The man called the number to make a booking, only to learn that he would not qualify for the discounts or special offers available online. This is likely to amount to discrimination, says the RNIB, because Ryanair's online booking system may be subject to the Disability Discrimination Act.

The Hampton Court Estate dates back to before the 15th Century. The estate was originally formed by merging of the manors of Hampton Richard and Hampton Mappenor. It was granted by Henry IV to Sir Rowland Lenthall at the time of his marriage to Margaret Fitzalan, daughter of the Earl of Arundel and a cousin of the King. Lenthall built the original quadrangular manor house in 1427, twelve years after his knighthood at the battle of Agincourt. In 1434 he was granted a licence to crenellate the house by Henry IV. Sir Rowland was succeeded by his daughter who married the Baron of Burford and it was their grandson who sold Hampton to Sir Humphrey Coningsby in 1510. Cardinal Wolsey bought and transformed Hampton Court into a sumptuous Palace in the 1520s, but it was annexed by Henry VIII as the Cardinal fell out of favour (the official story is it was given as a gift).

Henry VIII rebuilt Hampton Court after his own tastes and entertained all six wives here, some making a brief visit, en route for the scaffold. A succession of later Kings and Queens transformed the Palace according to their tastes too, which accounts for the diverse styles. James I used Hampton Court for its excellent hunting in the park. Charles II used it for lodging his mistress(es).

After the 'Glorious Revolution' in 1689 which saw the rights of Catholics much curtailed, William III and Mary II commissioned Sir Christopher Wren to rebuild Hampton Court. Fortunately the work was not completed as they planned to demolish all of Henry VIII's additions. They did, however, build the sumptuous Kings and Queen's Apartments which are added on the back of Henry's buildings. King William Apartments are said to be amongst the finest and most important set of Baroque state apartments in the world and are still furnished with the original furniture and tapestries from 1700 when they were completed for the King. Henry's Great Hall and the Chapel Royal exist in their original form, as well as the Tudor Kitchens, which are beautifully laid out as if a feast was being prepared using all the food and utensils that would have been used in the 16th century. The Palace was eventually handed over to the Public by Queen Victoria.

Also worth seeing: the collection of renaissance paintings, including Mantegna's Triumphs of Caesar, Henry VIII's Astronomical Clock the 60 acres of gardens, including the famous Maze.

Open Summer 10:00-18:00, winter 10:00 -16:30. Full tickets, £10.50. Tel: 01568 797 777 for details or visit the website: www.hrp.org.uk )

The World’s Largest Islands

Soure: http://www.xist.org/charts/nat_island.php

China's mainland will become the world's biggest supplier of tourists by 2020, according to a recently released report by CLSA Asia-Pacific Markets.

As many as 115 million Chinese mainland citizens are expected to travel overseas in 2010, higher than the World Tourism Organization's estimate of 100 million, the report said. Outbound travellers from the mainland surged 43 percent in 2004 to 29 million.

Rising personal incomes and the government's easing travel restrictions on individuals will contribute to the increase, according to the report.

In 2004, only 4 percent of China's urban population travelled overseas, leaving huge growth potential, the report said.

As 70 percent of mainland outbound travellers visit Macau or Hong Kong, their holiday spending will bolster stocks of Hong Kong retailers, European luxury goods firms and Macau gaming companies, the report said.

As many as 500 million people are expected to be allowed to travel individually to Hong Kong and Macau next year, up from 200 million this year, the report said.

Armed dolphins, trained by the US military to shoot terrorists and pinpoint spies underwater, may be missing in the Gulf of Mexico.

Experts who have studied the US navy's cetacean training exercises claim the 36 mammals could be carrying 'toxic dart' guns. Divers and surfers could be at risk from attack. The US navy admits it has been training dolphins for military purposes, but has refused to confirm that any are missing.

Leo Sheridan, 72, a respected accident investigator who has worked for government and industry, said he had received intelligence from sources close to the US government's marine fisheries service confirming dolphins had escaped.

'My concern is that they have learnt to shoot at divers in wetsuits who have simulated terrorists in exercises. If divers or windsurfers are mistaken for a spy or suicide bomber and if equipped with special harnesses carrying toxic darts, they could fire,' he said. 'The darts are designed to put the target to sleep so they can be interrogated later, but what happens if the victim is not found for hours?'

Usually dolphins were controlled via signals transmitted through a neck harness. 'The question is, were these dolphins made secure before Katrina struck?' said Sheridan.

The mystery surfaced when a separate group of dolphins was washed from a commercial oceanarium on the Mississippi coast during Katrina. Eight were found with the navy's help, but the dolphins were not returned until US navy scientists had examined them.

Sheridan is convinced the scientists were keen to ensure the dolphins were not the navy's, understood to be kept in training ponds in a sound in Louisiana, close to Lake Pontchartrain, whose waters devastated New Orleans.

The navy launched the classified Cetacean Intelligence Mission in San Diego in 1989, where dolphins, fitted with harnesses and small electrodes planted under their skin, were taught to patrol and protect Trident submarines in harbour and stationary warships at sea.

Criticism from animal rights groups ensured the use of dolphins became more secretive. But the project gained impetus after the Yemen terror attack on the USS Cole in 2000. Dolphins have also been used to detect mines near an Iraqi port.