Coming lunchtime and just what I am looking for:- water running from a plastic pipe but with a drinking cup left beside the fuente de beber close to a crude table and bench. No need for signs attesting to the water quality, the locals – gente local, obviously use this spring. I unpack my bread, Mahou, sausage and cheese (pan, cerveza, chorizo y manchego) and catch a large draft of clear, cold spring water. What a feast. A warbler sings a few phrases in the brush, but gives up. It is siesta time… I stretch out on the table and …